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Nissan Maxima

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    larry4nylarry4ny Member Posts: 6
    Yes this would be consider a complaint I am having a hard time relizing that this is. It sucks when you get in car and enjoy driving it and actaully like its appearance but then you relize that the engine is on or that you smell gas at times. I live in California in the bay area. It doesn't matter the Nissan corp will look at the majority of happy customers then look at the ones who are having problesm and relize there is not enough customers having problems and push them aside. After this case closes I am going to put ad in every local paper and send out flyers describing how bad Nissan handle this. This is the third largest state in the conutry I am sure I will make some damage to the buyers who are thinking about a NISSAN.
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    rjk3rjk3 Member Posts: 5
    If it's any consolation, call 1-800-NISSAN1 and open a complaint file. It's been my experience that when there's a complaint on file with the corporate office, the local service managers typically respond "a little better" than with no file at all. In regard to the Toyota comment, I owned a 2001 Highlander and had problems with the ck engine light as well! Just too many electrical components to monitor. I'll take a '69 GTO anyday.
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    rjk3rjk3 Member Posts: 5
    General question concerning the 6 speed trans in the '04 SE. Anyone having any problems downshifting from 6th to 5th ? I've noticed that I have to force my stick up and all the way to the right in order for it to "catch" 5th. If I don't it seems to want to migrate to 3rd. This is my 5th car with manual trans, albeit my first with a 6 speed.
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    aristotlearistotle Member Posts: 123
    You can go to any Autozone and they can do the same check free of cost. They will tell you what the codes are and you can look up the codes on the internet.

    I have a 1999 Maxima which had the SES light come on at around 40K miles. I had to change ALL the 6 ignition coils. Nissan America paid for the Labor and I had to pay for the parts. But the car has been running flawless since. I heard that the ignition coils are a fairly common problem on the Maxima.
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    aristotle, how did you get Nissan to pay for the labor?? i find it impossible to get Nissan to pay for anything..especially these dealerships in NYC..they're all about making a dime ..and dont really care about customer satification
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    aristotlearistotle Member Posts: 123
    The dealer in Colorado Springs is no different. He refused to do anything free of cost. I called Nissan Consumer affairs (800-647-7261) and complained hard about the problem. They offered to pay for repair with great reluctance. The dealer makes a tidy profit on the parts which almost offsets the waiver of the labor charges.

    If you are closer to the 36000 miles your chances are better. Also if you have been loyal to Nissan corporation by having bought more than one Nissan vehicle in the past that will help you even more. They also look for whether you do scheduled maintenance at the dealership. Others have had better luck than me. Nissan America has paid for both parts and labor. But they don't treat everyone equally. Loyalty factor and where the maintenance is done have a strong bearing on how far they'd go to help you. But be polite with them or else they won't pay a penny. That is what I found after trying different approaches.
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    eblumeblum Member Posts: 52
    Good luck on your search..but I have to disagree with some previous post. I just hit 100,000 miles on my 2000 SE. I have put no real money into the car except maybe one or 2 brake jobs, 1 set of tires, a new windshield (stone) and fluid changes. Other than that, it has been a very reliable car and I drive the heck out of it every day.

    My only issues have been paint chipping, engine knocking (later models have the fixed coils) and a small rattle from the dash. This car is by far the best car I have owned. And for the $22K I paid, it was the best value around. It's a shame the new model is so much more money...
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    sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    I got an offer from Nissan to purchase a 36,000 miles or 3 year (whichever comes first) bumper-to-bumper warranty for $1,890. I am currently out of warranty at 55K miles on my 2001 GLE.

    At the rate I am putting miles right now the warranty will be good for about 1.5 years (until I reach 91K miles). I am thinking of declining the offer. Does anyone here think otherwise?

    Thanks!
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    $1900 for 18months of warranty? i don't think that's such a good deal.. you probably won't have any major issues (besides brakes,etc) until well over 100,000 miles...

    if i were you, i would take the chance that the car won't have $1900 worth of repairs in the next 18months.... also factor in how much repairs have you had done since you had the car up to this point..

    i think if you have a max that's fairly reliable for the first 50k miles, you'll have the same level of reliability at least until 100k miles
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    sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    kyleknicks - yes, thanks. That was exactly my thinking. I've had only one failure so far in 55K miles - an O2 sensor that was fixed under warranty. Everything else was maintenance (and cutting warped rotors - pain in the neck!!!).
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    pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Lets say you had the dealer replace all the ignition coils and the O2 sensors. At the stealer (err dealer) rates. That's $720 for coils and $400 or so for O2 sensors (these are the only parts I've seen commonly fail). Total of $1120. This is not likely to happen twice in 18 months! So I'd say the warrenty is not worth it (as usual - why would they offer a warrenty they would loose money on anyway).

    They "offered" me an extended warrenty a year ago as my 3 year one was running out. No costs were mentioned though so I don't consider that an offer! I tore it up and "recycled" it.
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    berbelberbel Member Posts: 167
    I believe you have a pretty firm grip on the
    situation.

    I believe I'd ask myself......."assuming worst case
    scenario, what potentially will be the return on
    each dollar invested in this warranty considering
    the overall reliability of the Max over the period
    warranted?"

    Almost $1900.00 will pay for quite a bit of maint.

    berbel
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    kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    I agree. Unless you have been having a terrible experience with your Max, which I doubt, buying the warranty is simply not worth the money. I have 3 Maximas (sold 1 last year), all of which are relatively trouble free (relative to my old Cutlass which had to be junked). All that is needed is regular maintenance.
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    sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Thanks everyone! Will decline the warranty offer.
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    habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    I was offered extending my 3/36 to 7/100 on my Honda S2000 for only $1080. This was a Honda product, not an aftermarket fly by night. The price of the Maxima warranty is absurdly high. You should be able to get that coverage for under $700; and I still wouldn't. I have 148k miles on my Maxima and it still hasn't had a grand total of $2,000 worth of repairs; less than $1,000 of which would even be covered as non-routine maintenance.

    The reason to buy a Maxima is that you don't need repair insurance, IMO.
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    sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Thanks habitat1. That's what I thought.

    On an unrelated topic - you mentioned you use Mobil 1 (for now - what - 150K miles?) and your engine's still running pretty strong. (Didn't you also say you let the dealer inspect your engine at some point and the wear was still within factory specs?) So my question is how often do you change your oil? I use Mobil 1 too, drive mostly highway miles, and have been changing every 5K miles - I was wondering about extending to 7.5K miles.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
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    habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    Actually I don't use Mobil 1 for my Maxima - just plain old Castrol GTX 5w30. I have changed it fairly religiously every 3,500-4,500 miles. Good memory on the dealer inspection - he did a compression test at least 1 year ago and the engine showed to be within 2-3% of new car factory specs on all cylinders.

    We just returned from the holidays and a 435 mile highway trip at 70-75+/- mph produced a 29.2 mpg. Not bad for a 9+ year old car that can still hold it's own against the current crop of FWD sport sedans.

    As for Mobil 1, I definitely use it in my Honda S2000, but for no good reason haven't tried it in the Maxima.
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    i use mobil 1 5w30 in my maxima... i buy the case of it from Sam's Club and then bring it to Monroe Muffler to change my oil... they usually charge me only $10 for the oil change, so a total of $26 every 7500 miles... it just makes me feel better using syn oil plus it comes out to about $13 per 3000 miles... same as using regular oil..
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    kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    That sounds pretty good! I went to the dealer last week for an oil change, but the shop closed early because it was the Saturday after Christmas with few customers. (The posted closing time was supposed to be 4 pm and I got there at 2:30 pm.) So, I went to the Mobil station near me and they charged me $27 for Mobil-super (not Mobil 1) with change of oil filter. I believe Mobil 1 would have costed around $37.
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    kenny,

    from what i've seen, any place that actually sells a Mobil 1 oil change, will usually charge somewhere near $50.

    if you have a Monroe Muffler shop around you, they're pretty good with prices, you could even buy prepaid coupons that cost about $15 per oil change... then just give them some Mobil 1 and a PureOne filter.. i feel so much better knowing what's being used in my car..
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    stermenstermen Member Posts: 10
    I have been having problems with my radio controls on my steering wheel and wonder if anyone out there has had problems with their' s. The buttons don't respond every time I press them. It was intermittent and now is a problem all the time. It works then it doesn't. I just went out of warranty so I am not excited about what the dealer may have to say.
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    habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    If you "just" went out of warranty, I'd go to the dealer and explain that the problem began intermittently before the warranty expired. I have had good luck getting Nissan and Acura to allow some repairs if the vehicle is "just" out of warranty by a couple of months or a couple thousand miles.
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    dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    Habitat1 is correct-get to your dealer asap and tell them it was failing intermittently before you were out of warranty and now is becoming more persistent.

    They will probably take care of you under the "recently expired" warranty.

    My dealer has always been real good about this on all my Nissans.
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    ericuericu Member Posts: 16
    When should I get my first oil change for my 04 Maxima... 1000mi or 3750mi or just 3 months? I've heard various things. Some say 1000 b/c you're just breaking in the new engine, but others say not necessary anymore since regular oil is now used as opposed to that thin break-in oil from the past.
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    pordypordy Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking to buy a '02 SE and wondering if the price is in the right ballpark. 6-sp with everthing but limited slip and nav (Bose, heated seats, leather, roof, side airbags) 31000 miles, certified used, dark gray. My mechanic discovered today that it has been repaired for a cosmetic fender bender (patched right front fender, new nose) that didn't show up on carfax. $18K @ 5.3% APR. Fair deal?

    I love the car but don't want to be taken either.
    Patrick
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    dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    I agree with ccermak on the 1000 mile first oil change.

    I also agree to a point about beating on the car a bit as you break it in.

    I'd take (and have taken on all 3 of my Nissans) a progressive break in approach so that you pretty well follow the manufactures break in schedule for the first 500 miles. Then you start pushing a little harder and a little harder and a little harder until when you reach 1000 miles, you've had it up to the redline a few times under full throttle (at least in the first couple of gears).

    Then get that first oil change and go on a normal oil change schedule after that.
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    ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    I concur. Although I have read an article or two that says right away to get the revs up there. That was for racing motorcycles whether new or rebuilt though, not for regular cars.
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    charlew55charlew55 Member Posts: 6
    I have a '01 GLE loaded - I can't think of any option that was available at the time that is not on the car. I'm 6'4" and fit very nicely in car...have had absolutely no problems - just change the oil every 3k and fill 'er up. Have a 7 year fact. warranty and a 3.9% finance rate. But now, my kids are old enough to have their own cars, and I don't need a 4 door car....and I'm thinking I'd like to get back to a stick. I'm looking at a '99 BMW 328i 5spd w/66k. I would probably get about 4.5k equity for the Max (pristine condition, 16,000 miles, and I owe $14k on it)..maybe a few hundred more. Anybody out there that has owned both vehicles and has an opinion for me? I'm mainly concerned with the reports of expensive repairs w/bimmers, esp electrical stuff. This car appears to be very well maintained, though. But geez, goin' from 16,000 to 66,000 is a BIG jump, just for some fun of slapping a stick and driving a RWD again! Plus, I understand the BMWs aren't too good in the snow, and we get our share here. (not that the Max is a great handler in the winter, but it is FWD) I value any opinions, but it sounds like I'm talking myself out of it already! Thanks! Chuck
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    ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    My .02, keep the Max til it's paid off, then once it's paid off you can keep it for your winter car (throw some Blizzaks on it) or if you need 4 door for people hauling. Then get a BMW or Z or something sporty. Oh wait, that's what I'm trying to do ;-) Have 2000SE Auto with 9 payments left, then buying motorcyle.
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    i agree with you... pay off the max first..then go from there...

    ccermak, what kind of bike are you getting? i was actually thinking about getting a bike myself...it would be awesome to ride around this spring with one.. (i dont know how to ride one yet, but if i did, i would already bought one)
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    aggie1995aggie1995 Member Posts: 318
    You probably have no shot at getting $18,500 for your Max from a dealer on a trade. Even with the low miles I have seen 2002/2003 Max SE Loaded selling for $16-ish in Houston with 20-30k miles.

    You might get $16 if you sell it on your own.

    But the advice you've been given is sound pay off the Max then buy anything else you want.
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    ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    kyle, I currently have a couple cycles and am looking at getting another. I ride both dirt and street. I have a 2001 Kawasaki KDX 220R dirt bike, it's a 2 stroke enduro that's not street legal but has a headlight. It's about as fast as a 250cc motocross bike because I have it piped. For the street I have a 2000 Honda Shadow Sabre 1100cc V-twin cruiser. It's a nice bike, I have like $2k in accessories on it, but I'm looking to get something more sporty. I plan on buying a newer used (maybe brand new) Suzuki Bandit 1200S. It's the Maxima of motorcycles, an awesome all arounder that's been around forever with excellent value for the $. It's got good performance but it's not a true race bike, more of a sport tourer. Can get a 2003 holdover for $6199 here in MN.
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    jwilli420jwilli420 Member Posts: 22
    I was wondering if anybody with a 2000 maxima or similar has had this problem. I have a GlE and when on turn on the ATC i will sometimes get what sounds like a belt squel, but it only happens occassionaly and when i get above a certain rpm it stops. It probably happens 7 out of every 20 times i'm in the vehicle. Just seeing if anybody had some suggestions
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    i have a 2000 maxima and i dont notice what you're noticing with your A/C.
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    kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    wow! i just googled the Suzuki Bandit 1200S and that looks like what i want! i dont want a Ninja which is too sporty..and i dont want a cruiser or a harley.. but the Bandit looks like it's right up my alley... how long does these bikes last? how many miles do they go for?

    GO MAXIMA'S!!!!
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    ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    They are one of the most reliable, aftermarket parts available, time tested cycles you can buy. Some of the technology on them is slightly older than say the newer designed machines, but that's whey the price tag is so low. Plus it's got PLENTY of get up and go for the normal rider. And with a few aftermarket parts like exhaust the hp can be increased significantly. I'm a researchaholic and this is the bike for a novice to intermediate rider looking for a bike to romp on after work, or take on the 3 hr trip. This post is off topic, but as far as cycles go, the Bandit is very similar to the Maxima in it's philosophy. Now go out and take that sanctioned motorcycle safety course and happy ridin'.
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    ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    forgot to say that they're solid for thousands of miles, 30-60k no problem, which is forever for a guy like me up in MN. I'm sure they go longer than that as well. They're Japanese remember!!!
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    roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    I was sitting in a 2004 Maxima SL in a dealers
    showroom and I could not find any 12VDC receptacles either on the dash or on the console
    anywhere. Is my eye sight getting that bad ?? Any
    '04 max owners care to respond !!

    I did notice one big improvement over the previous
    Maxima's . The trunk lid now has very small
    " scissor-type " hinges with hydraulic assist
    instead of those old " humongus" hinges that
    crush packages. Good move.
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    lichtronimolichtronimo Member Posts: 212
    There is one on the passenger side of the console in the footwell.

    Maybe another in the center conslole like Accord?
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    bowke28bowke28 Member Posts: 2,185
    why dont you drive it to the other side of the building where the service entrance is?!?!

    ;-)
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    fuhrfuhr Member Posts: 2
    anyone finding the mode button on the steering wheel doesn't let u move thru the a/b/c bands and further when u move from let's say band a (fm) and then hit mode u r put into band c (am) and then when u use station button to change station, u r out back into the fm band. the system skips over band b (fm) and further when in band c the am band, the station selector on the steering wheel puts me back into the fm band.
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    ctl1ctl1 Member Posts: 18
    There is another outlet under the storage tray in the center armrest. You have to pull the tray out to access it but there is an opening in the tray to pull a power cord through. This one is useful for cell phones.
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    roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    Thanks to " lichtronimo" an " ctl1 ". I knew the
    car had to have them somewhere. They are well
    hidden although I don't know why.
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    bowke28bowke28 Member Posts: 2,185
    your salesperson didnt do a very good job explaining it...i will try.

    first, the a/b/c memory bands are not specifically for either am or fm. you can mix and match. ie: band a, preset 1 could be an fm station, and band a, preset 2 could be an am station. this goes for all 3 memory bands. when you switch memory bands, it goes automatically to the station you last had on in that band...ie: you listened to 101 FM, which is preset 4, last time you were in memory band 2. next time you switch to memory band 2, it will go to preset 4 first. if you switch to preset 2, being 760 AM, then it will take you to that station next time you toggle through the memory bands.

    i hope this explained it. if not, then read your owner's manual...you paid ~$30k for it for crying out loud! ;-)
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    andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    Hi, new to this forum.
    I have an 02 se 6spd that is due for new tires. I have come to realize that the 225/50/17 is rather limited in choice and high in price. I have found Nitto 450's for about 100 a piece and others starting around 165. Does anyone have any experience with the Nittos or has anyone mounted 235/50/17's?

    Thanks,
    Don
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    charlew55charlew55 Member Posts: 6
    I've pretty much reached the same opinion that you all have given...pay it off( will still have 2 years of mfg warranty left at that point), then go from there - at the rate I'm putting miles on, it will still be a low mileage car. It's still a great car to drive, absolutely no problems, I love the looks, and fit into it like glove. Must have been a brief wave of middle-age panic sweeping over me. Sometimes I just need slapped back to reality....
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    jdwalkerjdwalker Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone provide a link where I can find out the original standard equipment and the available options for the different models (GXE, SE, GLE) for 2001 maximas. I'm buying used and trying to compare and see what was available for each trim level.

    Thanks,

    Jon
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    suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Try cars.com
    Under "research" you can type in the model and year, and you can see by the trim levels what equipment came standard and what was available as options.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Why not try right here under the Used Cars blue tab at the top of this page? Click on the TMV logo that appears at the top and then follow the links for all you could ever want to know about 2001 Maximas. :)
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    suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I did, but there isn't a list of standard and optional equipment itemized by trim level. For example, if you type in 2001 GLE, you get a list of checks by various equipment, but mine for example had 2 other items that must have been options: side air bags and a moon roof. The cars.com site has an easier to read list of all the trim levels and options. Sorry, usually I prefer Edmunds for all kinds of car info, but occasionally other sites have good info too!
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
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