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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    I'm sorry, I think I misrepresented or you misunderstood my point.

    I have paid a fair amount for "repairs" on my Maxima over the past 18 months. But, next to nothing in the first 8 years and 130k miles. Nothing that I would consider a major mechanical system and the engine is still very strong.

    If you think you might have as good of luck with a Ford or Chevy product, be my guest. One of my "frugal" business school buddies got a Ford Taurus (using a lot of Ford credit card points) at about the same time I got my Maxima. He limped that pice of crap along for about 85k miles before he dumped it for $2,500 a year an a half ago. He had major repairs on an annual basis and the car left him stranded more than once.

    Re-read my post. I think the Maxima is a great car and has held up well. should a water pump or starter last longer than 130-150k miles??? I don't know, but the the major mechanical and drivetrain components are still running very strong. And it's fit and finish at 150k miles has held up very well - better than the average domestic car at a third of the age or mileage.
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    Sorry about the typo. I sold my 92 Max in Sep 02 when I bought my 03 Max - my third Max. I agree with the posters here that the Max is a reliable car and Consumer Report consistently shows that year after year. I also agree that Japanese brand cars (especially those made in Japan) are generally more reliable than American brands, and Consumer Report consistently shows that as well.
    I had my share of Ford and GM cars in the 80s, and I was not impressed with them, to say the least.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    No habitat, I did not feel you misrepresented your faith in your max. Just the amount of repairs you have had on it just seems like lot to me, as I said, I have heard mnay others with uite a few less repairs then you. But every car is differant as is every driver. I am not saying just because this car is Japanese that I never expect it to break down. I just think that if my repair costs end up costing more then my monthly car payment, then we have a problem. I get your point and am still strongly considering a max, as well as trying to listen to others advice to maybe get something else for now.

    One thing I need to point out is that I am not buying a car to get me around for a few years and then resell it. I want to get a car I can use for a few to several years and then assuming it is still running well give it to my wife or keep it myself. So resale value doesn't matter much to me. Although if you are speaking in the sense of getting an early 90's honda and driving it for a couple years then reselling it to get a max or whatever I want at that time, then i understand, and if that is a btter route for now, then i will have to strongly consider it. But it wouldn't be my first choice.

    According to consumer reports a 1997 Maxima proved more reliable then a 97 accord in several major areas. But a 94 accord was far more reliable then a 94 maxima, so i guess if my budget is tight, then I should consider getting and early 90's accord.

    I find myself caught in a catch 22 at this point. I am living currently with my wife and son in her parents basement. I am soon planning to get us our own apartment. I need to get a car before I can even consider moving out. But without actually moving out and figuring out exactly what costs I have, I have no way of accurately coming up with a budget. I have very educated guess as to what costs I will have, but they are not perfect.

    I guess i will continue studying. Thanks for your help everyone, you are providing me with great info and advice.
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    I love my 02 6spd (~35K) but since new I have had to

    1) Have rotors resurfaced (<1000 miles)
    2) Dash replaced due to bubbling.(~ 5K miles)
    3) Have rotors replaced (@&lt; 10K)
    4) Recall for some suspension crossbar
    5) Recall for posible sticking throttle
    6) Recall for some engine sensor
    7) Stereo replaced due to some CD error code (~30K)
    8) 2nd set of rotors resurfaced (~30K)
    9) Have a clip that holds splash guard under front bumper replaced 3X.
    10) Left Rear light assembly replaced due to fogging (~15K)
    11) Dealer installed some anti theft device and stickers for the HID lights.

    In addition I have had to play with the hood adjustments to keep it from fluttering.

    No major failures and I have had to pay only for the last rotor resurface. It also grinds going into 3rd when cold...dealer changed trans fluid but it still grinds.

    Although it has not cost me in terms of money, it has been a pain and I do not consider my time to be free. Many of the above repairs took multiple trips for parts etc. So I have to say my Maxima has not been as reliable as my prvious vehicles but I still find it a joy to drive. (I feel my 92 was a subjectively better car)

    Don
  • cheerioboy26cheerioboy26 Member Posts: 412
    I will admit I have not read every word of this rather lengthy discussion over the past week or so, ;) but I'll just put in my experiences so far. I have a 00 Max SE, with 46K. My repair history:

    1. rotors resurfaced ~19K
    2. Power mirror switch motor replaced
    3. Transmission Control Module replaced due to big kick from 1-->2.
    4. pads/rotors replaced.

    I think that's it. My Max has been more trouble free than my first-year G35. The G seems to be much better now in 04 - none of the problems I experienced. The only item I paid for above was (4).
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I have an '01 GLE (32,000 miles) -- so far the only thing I have replaced is tires, otherwise just the basic maintenance intervals at 15,000 and 30,000 miles.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    97 (36,500 miles) -- one set of tires, Diehard Gold battery; 03 (6,500 miles) -- nothing.

    Few complaints -- crummy OEM tires (97 and 03), so-called "premium" Bose speakers (03), inferior rear suspension (97 and 03).

    Best feature -- VQ engine.
  • mfletouvamfletouva Member Posts: 166
    I never had an opportunity to do a post-mortem on the Maxima I rented from Enterprise a few weeks ago, and how it compared to my 2002 Intrigue.

    Obviously, the Maxima is more of a performance car. Acceleration was great, although I had difficulty smoothly accelerating in slow traffic. According to the cool trip computer, my average speed during my morning commute in Metro DC was 14 mph. I would say that as much fun as the Maxima was, it is a TERRIBLE car to drive in that kind of traffic. Gas mileage was substantially worse than the Intrigue, again, according to the computer I average around 13.5 mpg, the Intrigue gets around 16 in the same driving.

    The instrument cluster did grow on me quite a bit, although the stereo system was not as good as the Bose system on the Intrigue. Comfy seats, but visibility is not very good--I'm sure more familiarity alleviates this problem, but I was doing a lot of guesswork backing up.

    The single biggest complaint I have about the Maxima (and the biggest reason I was happy to go back to the Intrigue) was the borderline ridiculous turning circle. Turns and u-turns I routinely make in the Intrigue were not possible in the Maxima. Driving in tight spaces, such as the parking garage at work, was very very difficult and required all kinds of extra turns. I know that the Intrigue is remarkably nimble for a car its size, but still, this was hard to overcome.

    So, in short, the acceleration, roominess, and interior style (exterior is hit or miss) are advantages for the Maxima. The Intrigue is smoother, has better ride insulation (the Maxima is SO rough!) and more nimble. If I drove long, twisty roads every day I'd probably prefer the Maxima, but for real world driving I'm sticking with the Intrigue.

    Tough to evaluate build quality also. I would say that the Maxima has a better reputation, which may be warranted. My Intrigue as around 15k miles (same as the Maxima rental) and has had no problems at all (except for getting hit, which is why I was in a rental to begin with). It also comes with a 5/60k standard warranty, and it is substantially cheaper than a Maxima (I paid $19k for a new GL with the sun and sound package (sunroof & Bose 8 speaker system), dual climate, stability control (called Precision Control System, is that even offered on the Maxima?), traction control, spoiler, etc.) The Maxima I had as a rental was fairly beat up and the interior was not holding up well--the suede was scraped and worn out on both door panels, there was a loud rattle coming from the shifter panel. I don't think its fair to evaluate the Maxima on this though since rentals are beaten up pretty hard.

    One final note--I loved the manumatic. I wish my Intrigue had this, it was a lot of fun. Anyway, compared with the Accord/Camry, I can see why those of you who are performance oriented love your cars.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    02 SE @ 25.5k miles -- 4 Bose replacements and that back window wind noise issue that I'll address at my next oil change. That's it.
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    I concur with kenm8, "It seems that there have been more difficulties reported on this message board on the next gen (2000 and later) than there were on the 95-99". I can testify as I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima with the dreaded COLD ENGINE RATTLE that is common with this car. It makes you question Nissan's reliability and quality and where they are headed.

    Onto another subject, but closely related, one should consider how a car company&#146;s customer service treats their customers. I wish there were a place you could rate a manufacturer&#146;s customer service and then prospective buyers could review these ratings before buying their new car. I mean really get a &#147;real&#148; feeling for how they treat their customers. This would be especially useful when buying a car from a manufacturer with reliability and quality issues.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    Could you please elobarate a bit more on this? Your post kind of makes it sound as this is well documented and on every Maxima.
    I believe your post was the first I've seen on this topic.
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    Could you please elaborate a bit more on this?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~
    Sure, if either of the following conditions is true:
    1. Below 35-40 degrees and the engine is cold soaked (sat over night)
    OR
    2. Below 45-50 degrees, the engine is cold soaked and has been idle for a couple of days (i.e. sat in the garage over the weekend)

    At startup, the engine will make a loud rattle noise for about 1 to 2 seconds. According to Nissan, it's an oil pressure/lack of oil in the valve train that causes this noise and is common to this car. I have written proof I can share with you.

    Your post kind of makes it sound as this is well documented and on every Maxima. I believe your post was the first I've seen on this topic
    ~~~~~~~~~~~
    It's obviously well documented within Nissan, as the tech line knew it was &#147;normal&#148;. It may be the first time you heard it because it&#146;s Edmunds.com, but check out Maxima.org and there you will find many discussions on this topic. Especially the thread I created after I found out about the problem. Trust me; I was as shocked as you are to experience this noise. I&#146;ve had it happen on cold days before going out for lunch. It sounds nasty! I can&#146;t imagine how much damage this is causing to my engine internally…
  • pernaperna Member Posts: 521
    I've had my 03 for 12 months/8500 miles, and I can honestly say I've never heard a noise like you're describing; I live in mid-Michigan, where it has been *cold* this winter.

    When I first bought the car it did digest some oil, but after the first oil change the car's engine has been nothing but smooth. Would you be interested to know what brand of oil and oil filters my dealer uses? Maybe that's the issue, I'd be happy to call and find out.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Well I think I found what might be the car i am looking for. It is a 97' Black on black leather, oh yeah its the SE trim. 65,000+, ABS, all that good stuff. What do you think this would go for int he ohio area, they are asking 7990, which seems decent to me.

    Also if any giving person could run this VIN through car fax for me, I would appreciate it.

    JN1CA21DXVM524976

    I would, but my account ran out a few days ago and I am not sure if I want to open another account yet.
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    You will get very accurate advice from Terry(rroyce) in the "Real World Trade-In Values" board. Give as much detail as you can about the car. Is the car you looking at a manual or auto?
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Oh yeah I should have mentioned its an auto
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    I'm glad to hear your 03 does not "rattle" at startup. I take my car to the dealership where I bought it for oil changes, so I would think they are using the correct oil and filter. Furthermore, Nissan tech line was contacted regarding this problem and they said it was normal.

    Though, if you don't mind, I would like to know what your dealership uses? It may be a different filter for cold climates...

    Thanks for your help, Tony
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    The "valve train noise" you describe is probably caused by oil starvation at startup. I've never experienced this on any of my Nissan's (95 GLE with 189k, 00 SE with 139k, or my 03 Murano) because I always switch to Mobile One 5-30 at 10,000 miles.

    I believe the synthetic oil provides a better lubrication, especially at startup when the most engine wear occurs.

    Of course, your mileage may vary........
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    It sounds like the car you want with decent mileage and a pretty good price. I did see a green '97 listed at $4999 at Coughlin Automotive in Newark, but no specs as to mileage, auto or stick, etc. I'm guessing it probably has pretty high mileage and may be a manual transmission. I say go for the one you know you want. Make sure you get it checked out as it's a 7-year old car.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Yes that brings me back to a question I touched on earlier, but did not get the response I was looking for. I know I need to get the car inspected, but this perticular I am considering is over 2 hours away, how do i get it inspected? I mean they won't allow me to take the car for a round trip of 5 hours to get it inspected will they? ANd if not, then how do I pick a local mechanic to that area. Or even in my area, I have a few people that I know can fix cars when they break, but I wouldn't really call them mechanics and I am not sure I trust them to find wear and tear defects, or potential parts that may soon be in need of replacing.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    try AAA if you are a member. I believe they have an inspection service. Otherwise, best idea I have is to let your fingers do the walking (or I guess these days, your mouse do the clicking).

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • bowke28bowke28 Member Posts: 2,185
    a few questions i would ask:

    1. is it at a new car dealer?
    2. is it under factory warranty?
       2a. can you afford an extended warranty?
    3. is it factory certified?

    if any of these are yes, i wouldnt worry too much about it. maybe try to work in an extended warranty in the deal. keep in mind that even your most trusted mechanic isnt perfect either.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Quick question about financing, as you know I was planning on going through an online lender. I just wanted to ask a few questions first. By applying and getting approved for the loan only means I am approved right? If say I don't find a car I want and never used the check they send me, then I owe nothing, correct? If this is the case then I can safely apply yo 2 differant places to see who offers the better rate, right?
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    SOrry guys, posted that last message before reading the others.

    I am a AAA member, will check thier site, see what it says.

    The car is at a dealership that sells both new and used cars as well as leases, but it doesn't appear as though they are loyal to one brand, meaning they don't appear to be a Ford dealership, or a Honda dealership.

    A 97' probablly isn't still under factory warranty, maybe powertrain, not sure how long that was in '97.

    Depending on how the finances work out it looks like I may be able to afford and extended warranty. As the car is not factory certified, it does say in the description that it comes with a warranty, but I forgot to ask about that, as I didn't see it before I called. My guess is that it is just like a 3 month/3000 mile deal or something like that.

    How do you go about getting an extended warranty in the deal? As I said this vehicle is over 2 hours away, and returning to the dealership to get it fixed is not a good option. I would want it fixed locally in Columbus, is that still an option if I get an extended warranty in with the deal?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Yes, they should allow you to drive it to wherever you want to get it inspected within reason. Columbus dealerships have let me drive cars to my mechanic who is located 50 miles away. But if you don't have a regular mechanic then ask some friends or co-workers for a good place that's reasonably close. This car isn't under a factory warranty any longer so it's important to do this. Most places like Firestone charge $20 to $25 for this service.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • morehpmorehp Member Posts: 30
    My '95 SE has made the "cold engine rattle" since I acquired it at 25K miles. Lasts maybe 30 seconds and is worse in cold in weather. Dealer said it was normal.

    FWIW, I've had no problems whatsoever with the engine, now at 99K miles. (The rest of the car is a different story :)
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Also, I think i may have asked this before, but got no answer.

    http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/mikef208/lst?.dir=/Nissan+Max- ima&.view=l

    Thats a link to 2 pics of the guage cluster in a maxima. I just was wondering if that is what the stock SE guages look like or are those aftermarket. And are they blue/red, or does the picture just make the light look somehwat blueish?
  • lichtronimolichtronimo Member Posts: 212
    If you don't cash the "check" you get from Capitol One, you haven't executed the loan.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Thats kinda what i figured, I just wanted to be sure first, before I got stuck with a loan without finding a car.
  • drivenjdrivenj Member Posts: 3
    Any stolen xenon headlights on 2004 Maximas? Are they really more secure than 2003-2?
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Well crap, I just got denied by capital, letter to folow in the mail with the reasons. I can't say I didn't expect this though. I figured I would give it a try but in order to meet the income requirments I had to file a joint application with my fiance, and she has a short credit history. While not bad its just not long enough. My credit is decent with a FICO of 700, but not enough in this situiation. Oh well I will try again when the bills I just paid off get off my credit report, that shoudl give me a boost. Or I could just get a family member to cosign. Or maybe try eloan or check out my bank, although by the sounds of it, fromw hat others have said here, the bank may not be able to help me with a 7 year old car. Well it looks like the wait is on now.
  • bowke28bowke28 Member Posts: 2,185
    but my total debt was only $1200. no way someone was going to lend me $15k or $20k. no matter what my score was.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    I'm not looking for that much. I would be overjoyed to get 9,000.00, 8,000.00 would be perfect, if I can't get at least 5-6 grand, then I'm screwed. I guess I could always check out dealer financing. But I have a feeling if I get a more reputable cosigner, then I will be fine.
  • bowke28bowke28 Member Posts: 2,185
    most banks wont finance a $5k-$6k vehicle. usually they are too old. dealer financing is no different.

    however...

    if you are in a rural area, some banks will go on personal recognaisance. some credit unions also wont look at the car...just your record with them.
  • pernaperna Member Posts: 521
    My dealer uses Valvoline oil and filters.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Yeah the 5-6 was the absolute least I could use. I am looking to get mor elike 8,000.00. I'm pretty sure with a cosigner, either capital one or eloan or one of those guys will approve me.
  • mrtrace1mrtrace1 Member Posts: 21
    Warning!!! This post is long.

    (Thought I'd post on this side since I got no responses from the problems and solutions side)

    Good afternoon everyone. A few months ago I posted on this board as mrtrace (I am now using mrtrace1 as I've seem to misplaced my log-in password) regarding a purchase of a 2002 maxima gle that my mother made. There were a few mechanical problems at the beginning of the purchase but there haven't been any since and the only problem since then is that the rear bumper paint has began to peel. When my mother purchased this vehicle it was back in December and in the northeast there was plenty of snow so we could not really inspect the vehicle and she decided since she knew the dealer personally to not even worry about inspecting the vehicle for body damage. At that time there were a choice of 3 other maxima gles' from other dealers that she was considering but decided to go with this one because of the black-on-black color and because she felt as if the dealer would not deceive her because of their personal experience and her constant referrals to them (she has sent about 10 customers who have purchased vehicles from them and she's also an employee of the credit union that is the lender on all those purchases). In the past I've also looked at a maxima but decided I would not purchase it because the back bumper looked like it had been replaced, which was a sign of significant damage to that vehicle, and it was always a thought that has stuck in the back of my mind including with my mother's purchase. Well getting to the main story now, I finally looked over her car once she bought it and I discovered that the left rear corner panel was misaligned with the bumper and the tailights (there are gaps where the corner panel meets the left tail-lamp and the corner panel and bumper are not flush with each other by more than 1/4 inch on both left and right sides) and might have been in accident but didn't say anything because that's the last thing you want to tell someone once they've bought a major purchase, especially your own mother. Well about a month after I discovered my finding about this body damage the paint on the rear bumper began to chip and at this point the bumper paint has all kind of nicks and cracks up and down it. She has informed the dealer about it but has not had the chance to take it to them and knowing my mother she doesn't want to stir up trouble simply because of the fact that she knows them (and yes I've been trying to explain to her that they weren't her associates when they sold her a wrecked car). Getting even more to the point, one day my mother and I went to a carwash and upon us inspecting the vehicle after the wash I said to her "mom, I think this bumper has been replaced and I noticed it when u first purchased this vehicle but didn't want to tell you but feel as if I should now because this really affects your resale value, and your drive and who wants to pay almost $20,000 for a wrecked car." She dropped me back home but proceeded to go to a body shop and asked if the bumper had been replaced and they told her yes and that there had been a shoddy paint job done on it at that. So its been a little over 2 months since she has had the car and there's been about 8,000 miles put on it (yes, alot). I am asking you guys what does it sound like she should do. I have told her to contact an attorney and lodge a complaint with the New York State Attorney General's office. However, I am interested in hearing what you guys have to say so she is not wasting her time by doing any of the above. I think her main concern is she just wants another maxima that hasn't been wrecked (even though I am trying to convince her to get a refund and get that caddy that fits more in with her over 50-year age range). By the way, when she purchased the vehicle she wasn't told it had body damage to it. She wants to trade it in next year for a used '04 and I've told her she wont get anything for a trade for a vehicle thats been wrecked. Please give your suggestions.

    P.S. Tomorrow or on Monday I will be taking the vehicle to a body-shop and have them inspect the undercarriage of the car for welding and replacements parts and will let you all know the outcome.

    Thank you.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Member Posts: 433
    i would say take it back to the dealer who the car was bought from and ask them what can be done... that's the first approach i would take..espcecially if it's someone she knows
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    8k miles as it lends to the depreciation of the vehicle making an equitable deal harder to reach.

    Also, a replaced bumper doesn't make for a wrecked car. If the trunk, quarter panels, and the frame straightened I'd be more likely to agree.

    Buying used is never easy and that's why it's recommeded that the car be taken to a reputable shop to give the once over.

    If it were my mother, I'd have told her as soon as I discovered it. What she did with that info would be up to her.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Well I just got off the phone with Eloan, and they approved me for a 48 month loan up to 18,000.00 dollars but at a slightly higher rate then I was hoping, 5.75. Although the differance between that and the 4.49 that i was hoping to get is only 4 bucks a month on the amount I am looking to spend, so not too big a deal I guess.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Oh yeah, I have one other question. I didn't seem to notice anywhere on either capital one or eloans sites for having a cosigner. I obviously didn't need one, but it may have helped get a lower rate. Maybe I missed it and maybe they don't allow that, but my question is can I then refiance my loan in a little while with a cosigner to see if it would be possible to get a better rate?

    Also the only way I could qualify for the loan was by filing a joint application with my fiance, since I by myself don't make enough, since I work part time and watch our son the rest of the day. I know this will mean that we both will be titled on the car, what exactly are the effects of that and if I did refiance I could then get it just in my name, correct?
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Did the 97 maximas has a side air bag as an option? The car I am looking at has driver and passangers air bags, as well as another listing for side air bag.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I'm not sure how much of that 18k you're looking to use but you certainly would be able to find a used 02 in that price range and you get the newer engine.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    I'm looking to spend about 8,000.00 max over the 48 months. I can't afford to spend any where near the full 18,000.00.

    I just got off the phone with the dealership who has the car I am considering and he said the 7990.00 is the selling price. He said they set a price and sell the car for that price. SO while this may be a tactic I would imagine they would not be inclined to budge much on price. And really compared to edmunds TMV the price is stilla good deal on a fully loaded 97 Max SE with 66,000 miles on it. I think I may go in with an offer of 7500.00 and if I can get it for 7750 I would be happy, but I am willing to pay askin price as long as they don't try and screw me into getting other stuff I don't want or trying to inflate the price.

    Also if anyone could help me dechiper the carfax on this car that would be great. I think i got it, but I just want to be sure. I know it was in a minor accident, but nothing else seems out of line. It just seems like the car was barely used over the past couple years. Heres the carfax.

    04/08/1997 NICB
     Vehicle manufactured and shipped to original
    dealer
     
      
    05/27/1997 New York
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Staten Island, NY
     Registered as
    personal vehicle
     
      
    07/09/1997 9 New York
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Dallas, TX
     Title issued
    First owner reported
     
      
    05/01/1998 9,704 New York
    Inspection Station
    New York City Area
     Passed safety inspection
     
      
    05/28/1999 22,237 Auto Auction
    Eastern Region
     Vehicle sold
     
      
    07/14/1999 22,289 Pennsylvania
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Greensburg, PA
    Title #53493399 01 WE
     Title or registration issued
    New owner reported
     
      
    09/24/1999 22,321 Pennsylvania
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Greensburg, PA
    Title #53493399 02 AD
     Title or registration issued
    Loan or lien reported
     
      
    04/30/2001 55,685 Ohio
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Mentor, OH
    Title #4300905098
     Title issued
     
      
    05/03/2001 55,693 Ohio
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Cleveland, OH
    Title #1804356195
     Title issued
    Loan or lien reported
     
      
    05/04/2001 Ohio
    Inspection Station
     Passed emissions inspection
     
      
    11/22/2002 60,000 Ohio
    Inspection Station
     Passed emissions inspection
     
      
    05/27/2003 Ohio
    Police Report
    Case #20038194266
     Accident Reported
    in Cuyahoga County
    Vehicle involved in crash
    with another motor vehicle
    Very minor or minor damage reported
     
      
    01/21/2004 66,034 Ohio
    Motor Vehicle Dept.
    Irving, TX
    Title #7702924789
     Title issued
    New owner reported
    Registered as lease vehicle
     
      
    02/12/2004 Auto Auction
     Sold at auction
    in Ohio
    Listed as
    a fleet vehicle
     
      
    03/02/2004 CARFAX AdvisorTM Be sure to buy this vehicle from a licensed dealer.

    A curbstoner is a person who purchases vehicles at volumes that require a dealer license and then poses as a private seller to sell to unsuspecting buyers for a large profit. Curbstoning is illegal in most States.
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Okay I just got off the phone with the dealer and he said for a 200.00 deposit they would hold the car till i can get out there on Saturday. SO is it safe to give them my credit card info?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Nice little car, it was a fun drive home, except that right after I bought the car I went to get gas and after that the service engine soon light came on. But the car ran fine and the manual said this could be either an emmisions control system or not installing the fuel cap correctly. I checked the fuel cap and it was fine. When I got the car home we decided to check the ECU for a code. Well I am not sure if the problem fixed itself or what, but it would not blink out a code. So I gave up and started the car to take it for another spin, yet to my disbelief the service engine soon light was no longer on.

    I don't think I reset it, but I suppose it possiblly could have been. So my question is this:

    1. Would a problem like this just go away.
    2. If I did somehow reset the light while I was trying to chekc the code would it then come back on sooner or later if I didn't actually fix the problem, or once you reset it will it not come back on even if the part or whatever is still malfunctioning?

    I know I could have posted this in problems and solutions, and I have been reading about it a little over there, but technically i no longer have a problem, just a question, and you have all been very helpful, thank you.

    Oh yeah i almost forgot, if it was possiblly becuase of the gas cap not being properly installed, would installing it properly cause the light to go off, or would it need to be reset?
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Hmm, I just read that after a number(not sure of the actual number)of starts or insertions of the key into the ignition that the SES light will go off if the problem no longer exsists. If that is the case then it may be possible I did reset it as I was unaware you could reset it like that.

    I was attempting to reset the code for the keyless entry keyfob they gave me(not the original one for the car). For those that don't know, the way you do this, well one step anyway is to insert and remove the key 6 times. As I was not getting the keyfob to work I did this 5-6 times, so hopefully I just reset it and it stays off, unless there actually is a problem, then I would prefer it come back on so i can get it checked.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    What year and model Maxima did you buy?

    Just an FYI, Nissan's will always throw a code if you gas them up with the engine running (not that you did, but it seems like more people do this in the winter and you said it happened right after you filled it up).
  • mikef208mikef208 Member Posts: 69
    Its a 1997 SE with 66,xxx miles on it. Yeah I had read about the fueling while engine is running code, but I had the engine off. I know some people are stupid, but I like to think I'm not one of them.

    I just was a little worried when it went out. That sounds stupid worrying when your SES light goes out, but I figured if somethign was wrong that I would wnat to get it fixed and as far as I know they can't pull a code if the light is not on. I mean if it stays off thats great I guess as long as nothing really is wrong. But if it comes back on its going to the dealership to get checked.

    Now when you say it will light up when fueling with the engine running, if you did that, would the light then go out very soon, or would it stay on till either it is reset on the ECU or by just inserting the key a number of times?

    Basically thats what I am trying to figure out, I think when I was trying to reporgram the code for the keyless entry, I probablly caused the light to reset, and I just want to make sure that if the problem is still there that the light will come back on.

    That brings me back to eh keyless entry problem I am having, but I think i will take that to problems and solutions.
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