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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • jackjtjackjt Member Posts: 178
    Glad I don't and won't subscribe! After close to a year, still love the 01-Abboud,GS. Punch it and it responds:-)
  • cannongjrcannongjr Member Posts: 4
    I just got back from driving a new GS. I was wondering if it was normal that the transmission was upshifting around 5,000 rpm instead of redline (which looked to be around 6,000) when I had it floored? I even tried holding it manually with the shifter but it still shifted up early. I really enjoyed the test drive. This car is a great blend of quiet, performance, price and room.
    It's too bad that Car and Driver didn't test the Regal with the Sport Suspension. I've rented LS's with the sport suspension and they are very nice.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    Someone has to finish last. Hope all you Regal owners get to the doctor's office soon so you can read the article. My Father's car is a Regal and from driving it, I'll have to say C&D is right on.
  • streetracerstreetracer Member Posts: 134
    Thats nice. I will continue to out accelerate, out corner, and outbrake in the real world whatever import dejure you and the rest of the magazine racers are driving :)
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    I'm a realist. Before buying my GS, I knew that I wanted a car that was quick off the line, gave me a nice blend of road comfort with road feel and equally as important, gave me most bang for my bucks. But is it a handling sedan?!?

    Unless we're driving two significantly different cars (and my car is not modified), my car corners worth crap. Granted, for FWD, it ain't bad. But to imply this car can out-corner others in its class is like saying Arafat is not a terrorist.

    The GS is nothing more then a sheep in wolfs clothing....a car that nobody looks at twice or takes as a serious performance car among the 'four door sports sedans' (which is fine by me). What the GS does is it will get you to the next stop light as quick (if not quicker) then 98% of sedans costing $1,000's more. But out-corner??? I think not. Even swapping the OEM Good-Year LS tires w/ Michelins would only give marginally better cornering ability.

    ...just my two cents.
  • streetracerstreetracer Member Posts: 134
    I do my hard driving on highways and interstates. The GS and now even more so GTP excel in various combinations of acceleration, cornering, and braking on these roads. The only place I would say the car's cornering and handling are lacking, are in tight narrow slow speed corners. You may find these on turns on backroad, and some exit/entrance ramps. However, in the GTP I take may exit and entrance ramps at twice the limit if now more. The driving techniques in FWD car are very different than a RWD one. The worse thing to do is to let off the throttle, or turn the wheel more than the turn angle. The car will go into poweroff understeer, possible terminal understeer.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I'll take a Camaro SS anyday for the same price. It will simply blow the doors off of that GTP and for the same price.
  • jpstaxjpstax Member Posts: 250
    Hey obeyone, I think we're talking about a car with BACK seats that are confortable, not some musclecar you need a can opener to get in & out of. Sure, the SS will blow the doors off a GS or GTP, but it's impractacle as a family car. Have fun driving your RWD SS in heavy snow too. I think you deserve to get flammed on this one!
  • streetracerstreetracer Member Posts: 134
    I agree completely. I love the Camaro SS, and Trans Am ram air. I will probably get one as a second car, but they are discontinued. However, for a daily driver or a family car they don't fit the bill.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    jpstax, you fail to get the jest of my post. Nuff said. BTW, it don't snow here.

    image

    streetracer...a Camaro SS IS a daily driver. That's why they are so dam cheap.
  • kcrnmalekcrnmale Member Posts: 47
    When I play a CD, I noticed a shrill sound intermittently coming from the driver's door. I think it's the window vibrating...when I place my forearm against the window, the vibration doesn't occur. The window isn't loose, I only have 10,000 miles on my GS. Anybody else have a similar problem? Note: I play the CD at 1/3 volume level. I'm not playing rap music either!
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    in my Regal too.

    Not a rap, just some Russian songs. Comparable to American "country" style in acoustics.

    I like to listen the songs on the authors records: one voice (with authors being poets, not professional singers), and one guitar accompaniment. Rather moderate volume, of course.

    I have a 2000 GS, with Concert II sound (six speakers, not eight), 12+k on odometer.

    However, the windows do not vibrate. You have to touch the door to feel the vibration. Learned about this vibration recently, when driving as passenger, with my wife behind the steering wheel. Put my hand on the door hand rest...

    Usually I drive when we are together. I am using the both hand when driving, do not use the hand rest, and did not know about the vibration before recently.

    Rather strong vibration on low frequencies. I feel them also through feet. However, my wife told me that with some CD this vibration always happens. She like it.

    Possibly, the windows would vibrate with different songs.
  • 99gs99gs Member Posts: 109
    Has anyone run into some creeking noises or popping when turning? I have a '99GS that just went to the shop, got it back after $360 to replace a half shaft, and still have the noise. This was the tech's diagnosis and recommended fix. The sounds seem more like flexing of the front of the chassis rather then the steering. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Jack
  • duffymanduffyman Member Posts: 3
    Hi all. I haven't posted on this board since I 1st bought my GS in '98 although I have occasionally read. Anyway, I now have 37,000 miles. Impressions - - I still think the GS is the best 4 door for the $'s. I haven't had any mechanical problems although lately my temperature readout doesn't always work. Overall I'm very pleased - - get 24 mpg 50-50 driving.

    This design is getting a little old and other cars are catching up to the horsepower output. After 5 years I guess it's time for Buick to up the ante - - although no automatic can yet beat the GS off the line.

    The car is also more comfortable, roomy, with a bigger trunk than anything out there for the bucks. It's funny - - when I tell someone I have a Regal GS the typical response is " that's an old man's car!". Then I take them for a drive - - usually there minds are changed. Too bad Buick can't market this car properly.

    Anyway, take care all.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    WIth only 14,000 miles on my GS, I also recently had an issue where my exterior temperature readout claimed 65 when it was 20 degrees warmer. It's an easy and inexpensive fix at your Buick dealer. I'm sure they will replace the thermostat under warranty even though you just passed the magic mark.
  • kcrnmalekcrnmale Member Posts: 47
    Naturally you are gonna feel the doors vibrate because there are speakers in them. What I'm referring to is the intermittent driver's door window vibrating to the point where it's now audible.
  • olekolek Member Posts: 11
    Hey - I was there ! When I was late to work at 9:10, the temperature was 65F(and I felt the cold air).
    But when I go out for lunch - it shows me the same 65F - and it was damn hot there that time !
    At least 85F.

    Dealer just leastened to my complain and claimed that my ambient temperature sensor goes bad. Replaced under the warranty ( approx $100).

    They are dumb !!! Sensor was OK ! I understood the problem after I got Service Manuals.

    The problem is - if you turn on your car after it was parked for LESS that 3 hours - it do not trust sensor - because it may be heated by hot air collected under the metal panels. So - computer just uses last results from the last trip !

    And even worse - it will start to trust sensor only after you will drive more than 10 minutes with speed >25mph. Sure enough - I am driving in stop and go traffic most of my time - so computer just did not have a chance to update reading !

    My opinion is:
    1. This info should be included in owner manual, not only in service manual.
    2. As a matter of fact - there at GM dealerships they DO NOT read that service manual. Period.
    They replaced perfectly good sensor and charged manufacturer $100. Glad that was not me :)
  • peufanpeufan Member Posts: 53
    For the indepth info on the exterior temp sensor.

    I park my car in the garage and after starting
    the car it will show what I know is the wrong
    temp for up to 10 minutes (sometimes less).

    Now I know why.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Just my two cents...

    I agree about the sensor 'debacle'. It takes about five minutes of driving no matter the weather conditions to get an accurate reading.

    On the other hand, if after 30 minutes of driving the exterior temp. shows 65 when you know damn well by the sweat stains around your crotch its 90+ degrees,...the sensor is bad and needs replacement.

    ...atleast I think that is the reason for the sweat stains :)
    .
  • oscarz2oscarz2 Member Posts: 153
    I have 99 Intrigue GLS. From day one, I experienced creaking/popping noise (front-end/right side) when turning. After several mechanics and many hours of trying to isolate the noise, they pinpointed the noise to the jounce bumper in the right strut. They lubed both jounce bumpers thoroughly and the noise was gone. However, it only lasted a couple of weeks. So I had them lubed again. Right now I don't have the noise and it's been a while.

    That being said, your noise may be of a different source because there are many culprits with these suspensions. At least ask the mechanic to lube the jounce bumpers and see if that eliminates the noise. Should only take a minute.
  • 99gs99gs Member Posts: 109
    Thanks for the feedback. Since I posted, the dealer has looked at the car three times claiming it was fixed and the noise was still there. In fact they have replaced a half shaft, the whole steering rack, and a strut so far. Yesterday they drove it around with some type of listening gizmo with head phones. They had come to the conclusion that it was either the strut or the jounce bumper as you had indicated. Thank you again for sharing your experience. Jack
  • gzkemlitegzkemlite Member Posts: 10
    I am approaching almost 2 yrs ownership of my '99 GS that now has 25M miles. I have read with interest for many months all your Regal owner postings. Thanks for the experiences and tips!!! Knock on wood, I have experienced no major mechanical issues so far. Seems like American car owners are conditioned to expect some kind of mechanical problem. If I had to list some complaints they are: wish headlights were not so shadowy, fog lights should be more funtional, needs better front interior storage, but my complaints are minor. My red GS is as tight and solid as the day I took delivery. Sure I have experienced the intermittent dash rattle, incorrect temp readout, etc., that most Regals seem to genetically have, but I have to say..."Except for my 1st car, a 1966 Mustang V8, this is the best car I have owned in my 35 years of Illinois driving". This is truly one of the best cars combining performance, luxury and subtle style for the money on the road today. I can't say I get a lot of admiring looks or comments, but the other guy at the stoplight sure notices when I "blow his doors off". We enjoy driving the Regal so much more than my wife's '97 Sable LS that the Regal has almost as many miles as the Sable. I can't say anything bad about my Sable,just that it's dull. Wish we had two Regals.
    Thanks OLEK for your input on temp sensor. Will save us all a lot worry. You're right, this info should be in the owners manual. Does anybody know should you really go 5 YEARS on a Dex coolant flush? I have also received differing responses to super charger oil changes. Some say 30M miles...my dealer Service Mgr said never. Does anyone know the correct interval?
  • y2112yzy2112yz Member Posts: 19
    I was curious with all the postings regarding the handeling of the Regal. Where are all of you driving at that you need to swing around corners at high speeds?? I will agree the handling is OK on the Regal GS. MY 2001 GS handles much better once I got rid of those crap Goodyear tires. Go with Michelin or BF Goodrich and it will handle better. I mean I can around a corner just as well as a GTP. Atleast, in my mind. I am from the old school of driving where there was no such thing as fancy suspension packages, etc. In the cars that were made in the 70's, they handled like Mack trucks, of course they were 2-3 thousand more pounds in weight versus the 3500 pounds in most sedans of today. So, if you think about that in that respect, most cars of today handle pretty damn well versus say 20-30 years ago. Some are just better than others. The suspension package on the Regal is made for smooth ride, not taking a corner at Daytona Speedway at 110 MPH. I looked into the specs on the 4 door GS and 4 door GTP and they are almost the same. I would have went with a GTP, but that orange dash and the interior was a turn off to me. So, if you talk to different drivers you will get a different response on handeling of the GS. For me, a 28 year old guy, the car handles great for me. Just my two cents worth...
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    This post may be a strech, but what the heck.

    While shopping for parts, I came across a newer Buick dealership here in L.A. It was (and still is) a GMC/Pontiac delaership, but has recently added Buick.

    This dealership has NEW 2000 (not 2001 or 2002) LS and GS Regals. Asking price on a new, loaded (minus heated seats) 2000 GS is $22,000. I asked the salesperson why there are 2000s still on the floor. His response was that GM pulled these cars from a nearby dealership due to unknown circumstances (hence that dealership no longer sells Buicks - only Chevys and Olds) and obviously, needs to get them off the lot. I asked once again (knowing I was not a buyer) what a realistic out-the-door price would be. His response was they sold 2 GS' this week for $1,400 off of asking price (making it @ $20,600 + T&L).

    The cars are new - they have three GS' and two LS' remaining. If you live in L.A. and this sounds interesting, head on over to the GMC/Pontiac/Buick dealership across from the Fox Hills Mall.

    P.S. Sorry - forgot to ask if 0% financing was an option.
    .
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Help! My '99 has many scratches in the clearcoat finish. As GMAC will likely take the car away at lease's end [or even if I buy it], what's the best way to get rid of those white marks?

    Also, while we're at it, what's the least expensive cure for the little dings from hail, acorns, etc. that don't break the paint? I've heard of a machine called the Dentmaster that sucks them out by vacuum force. Is this true?

    Thanks for any help.
  • duffymanduffyman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info on the temperature readout . . . BUT what I meant to describe was that the readout screen has gone blank. Thus, I also don't what the inside temperature is!! I'm going to take it to the dealer soon, I hope, but am worried that it's out of warranty by 6 months and 1K miles. I hope this isn't the start of bad things - - - car has been great mechanically so far.
  • one2oneone2one Member Posts: 626
    Try Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional Swirl Remover # 9. Most Pep Boys carry it. It's in a yellow bottle and can be applied by hand or machine. You might also want to hit it with their paint scrub first if you have the time.

    Of course, if you have Zaino... well, it's Zaino :-)

    I used both on a car that hadn't been waxed (except for the light that comes on in the car wash) in 2 years in PA where it snows every year. And the car was used so who knows what had been done until then. After washing, paint scrub and swirl remover, it literally looked new.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    My manual says to inspect the level at 30,000 no change it.

    Omn a trip over this holiday the trunk was packed solid and the air bag light came on and would not go off. Umnpack the trunk and light goes of. Fair to assume some sensor or wire in the trunk is causing a problem, minor
  • olekolek Member Posts: 11
    manual says check and add oil if needed (it is) each 30k. More frequent inspection is not recommended because of higher chance to get dirt in the supercharger - which will destroy it.

    You may indeed change the oil, but if even dealer do not do that, I would not do that.
  • gweilogweilo Member Posts: 118
    Sounds like the most prominent one is the squeak and rattle issue. Any luck fixing these?
    Anything else a prospective buyer should know?
    Are there any aftermarket options for giving an LS a sportier ride?
  • dfritz1dfritz1 Member Posts: 9
    my 01 LS is very slow retracting the driver's side belt & it has caught in the door twice. I've got a scratch (minor) on the door from closing door too quickly. Is anybody having this problem? My 97 monte carlo did this & i thought buying a buick (upgrade) would solve this. Any help on this would be appreciated. THKS.
  • olekolek Member Posts: 11
    Hi

    Autotap owners - I am in need of your help !

    My supercharged 3800 is idling slightly roughly.

    I have verified all the related parameters in autotap - but you know, no data
    is seriously wrong. And I can not catch slight variations because I do not know
    what I have to expect.

    I would really appreciate if some autotap owner will run his car on idle for
    a minute and send me the log file with such parameters:

    engine speed ( RPM)
    desired engine speed
    injector pulse width
    IAC counts
    MAF volume
    MAP
    EGR %
    long time fuel trim
    primary ignition voltage

    Well - my last resort is dealer, but it seems to me that they will want to
    replace half of engine - this is their usual method of fixing .... :(
    And this gonna cost me $$$
  • sailesaile Member Posts: 25
    Suspension Upgrades:

    Poly-Bushings:
    This is a must have to start upgrade. The best bushing on the market are Energy Suspension.

    Front/Rear Sway Bar:
    RAT...Red Hollow Bar + 2 Setting on Rear Bar
    Addco...Nice rear bar but past bars had fitment problems on W-Body. I don't believe they have a front bar.
    Energy Suspension...basicly a Resell of Addco
    Next Level...solid black bar much like the police impala unit. The BEST lightest, strongest...SLIGHTLY expensive bar is RAT. I'm poor so I could only afford the Next Level. What ever you do GET A MATCHING SET!!!

    Rims/Tire Upgrade:
    If you can afford it remove stock rims and place 17" tires...go for it!!! I like the Buick rims so I just upgrades the tires to Bridgestone Protenza 245-50-16. Mainly because previous W-Bodies from McClearen used same size. Also I wouldn't have a fitment problem with brakes. A 16" rim has less inertial mass since weight of hub is lighter and MORE tire material is on edge...Get's more power to ground.

    Front/Rear Strut Brace:
    It's the easiest to install. Every little bit helps...

    Strut/Spring:
    Unless you are serious $$$$ about suspension...proceed. If not with the above MOD's you'll have a presently surprised sportier ride!!!
    ---------------------------------
    HELP...HELP...HELP
    It was bound to happen...I broke the cup holder!!! Please don't ask how...WERE DO I GET A 1999 Med.Grey CUP HOLDER ASSEMBLY!!!
  • one2oneone2one Member Posts: 626
    Have you changed brands of gas? I had the same problem but changing gasolines fixed the problem. It took a couple of tankfulls to notice a measurable difference. I was using Mobil but switched to Wawa. Someone posted earlier about an additive that many brands use that causes rough idle. If you live in or around PA, NY, NJ try Wawa gas. Besides, it's usually about 2 to 4 cents cheaper than most other stations.
  • olekolek Member Posts: 11
    we do not have any Wawa here in Pittsburgh.

    I tried few brands of gas - and I have noticed a difference but not too big. Exxon was the worse, and BP is best for now.

    Since I have had that problem before winter comes - I do beleive that rough idle is not because of oxygenized gasoline.
  • one2oneone2one Member Posts: 626
    Don't spend money at the dealer unless you have to. My problem began in July (brand new car) using Mobil and it took a couple of fillups to remove the problem. So it may still be the gas. I'd just hate to hear that you spent a bunch of money and the problem came back because of gasoline.

    But I feel what you're saying. Most of the stations kept the shudder, some more than others. Guess Wawa stays to the eastern part of the state.
  • jackjtjackjt Member Posts: 178
    Still running very well with no real problems. Love the car. It's power and smooth delivery of such is a delight.

    Did have one problem. Had like a muffled backfire problem for about 2 weeks; then changed gas stations and it went away.
  • redregalredregal Member Posts: 1
    Forgive my not reading all the posts first. Am new owner of 2001 LS w/ GT susp.(new volvos are too small inside for my large kids). Love the 3.8, but the radio reception here in Denver is ungreat. Obviously an antenna limitation. Want to try a signal amplifier: How do I get the radio head out/ access the rear, without paying Helminc $120 for the service book? Have plenty of tools (there are never enough), busted knuckles on cars and airplanes x30 years, and there's GOT to be a simple way. This on has the single CD+tape+am/fm unit. Help, please?
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Having spent the better part of three year in and around Denver (From Ft Collins to Colorado Springs), I never had a problem with radio reception. Considering the state is flat east of the Rockies, radio transmitters and transmissions are clear as day. *I* think your problem is a faulty radio (or receiver). Take the car back to the dealer. If they can't find (or fix) the problem, ask them if you can drive a demo Regal with the same radio unit for a day and see if you have the same problem.

    Colorado is just too darn flat to get lousy radio reception. The problem isn't the radio stations - its your radio.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I had to remove the head unit to install a 10 cd changer. It is not a pleasant experience. You have to pry the plastic trim that runs across the dash, starting at the passenger's side. You pry till the point where it seems like it will snap into two pieces. At that point, the clips will release. You will then be able to access the head unit for removal.
  • pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    Redregal, I too live in Denver and have not experienced any reception problems. I would take Bushwack's advice and take it back to the dealer. You either have a bad reciever or and faulty connection to you antenna.
  • lkohnlkohn Member Posts: 13
    Start with the most simple things;
    Check the horizontal 'line' (which is actually the radio antenna) on the upper part of the windshield for breaks.
    Check the connector from the windshield 'line' to the wire with the teardrop at the end, which is near your rear view mirror. The teardrop part snaps on and off the windshield - maybe it just needs to be snapped better. (Hope you can understand what I mean.)
    Either or both of these things will cause reception problems. Good luck.
  • regalberkregalberk Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone used a LeBra on their Regal? Any paint issues?
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    LeBra, otherwise known as "LeCrap" sucks. Stay as far as way from that brand as you possibly can.

    I have a 2001 Impala LS and use the "Perfect Fit" car bras which have to be the best out there. They are the same OEM equipment that the dealer parts department sells for a markup, but you can buy direct from the manufacturer up in Canada. My Impala's front end bra was $84.00 plus $10.00 UPS ground delivery to your door. The materials, construction and way the front end bra fits are incredible!

    Try them out, you won't be dissapointed!:

    www.carbras.com
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    This is how your Regal will look like with the "Perfect Fit" car bra:


    http://www.carbras.com/perfectfit/bigcars/buick_regal.htm


    As long as you remove the Car Bra every week or couple of weeks to wash your car, you should have no paint or other related problems. Car Bras need special care and are not meant to be left on for years without them being washed.

  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Car bras are very '80s. It looked great when I was 17 on my new 1981 Celica GT hatchback :)

    The latest trend is 40 or 50 series tires w/o sidewalls.

    Unless you're doing heavy duty driving, ...I can't see any aesthetically redeeming qualities (or substancial preventative reasoning) for using a car bra on a Regal.

    Just my .02¢
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    Bushwack-

    It may be 80's, but it sure cuts down on those highway hood chips!

    fastdriver
  • scorpio007scorpio007 Member Posts: 19
    Hello Everyone,

    I have a 1988 Buick Regal 2DR 2.8L with a 169K on it. In good shape.

    I am planning to sell it (Bought a New Honda).

    Is there anywhere in Toronto I can take it where I could get a decent $$ value for it??

    Thanks,

    R
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    I have read in many car publications that the Century and Park Avenue will be canceled and phased out of GM's lineup in the next two years. If that is true, when exactly is the Park Avenue's final year going to be? I'd like to get one of the last traditional big Buicks before the new futuristic LaCrosse comes onto the market.
  • gweilogweilo Member Posts: 118
    Tell me the year of the car and how well it's treated you. Any brakes or front end issues? Would you buy a 2002 if in the market?
    Thanks
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