Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Buick Regal

1…3132343637…67

Comments

  • dfritz1dfritz1 Member Posts: 9
    If you just had the oil changed & it has been coming on since, then you need to reset your computer. Your owners manual will tell you how to do this. Hope this works. Good luck.
  • kcrnmalekcrnmale Member Posts: 47
    My 2000 GSE:
    Glove compartment rattles over bumpy road.
    My driver's door buzzes intermittantly (even with the radio off-it's not from the radio). Does anybody else have the same problem(s)? Please help!
  • pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    Kcrnmale my 97 has had dash rattles from day one. Rattles are typical for GM cars, or at least everyone I have been in. Take it to the dealer while its under warrenty and have them try and fix it, or try using silicone on the trouble spots.
  • rickrozrickroz Member Posts: 26
    dfritz, thanks for the reset suggestion. I took my car to the dealer this morning to get the sensor replaced, the service advisor said resetting the computer only works for the change oil soon light.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    I also have had an intermittent glove box rattle. The problem seems to be how the lock aligns with the clip inside the box. Once you have that alignment solved, you should be OK. Make sure the screws on the outside bottom of the box are tight. They loosen easily.
  • rickrozrickroz Member Posts: 26
    I posted a few weeks ago regarding a weak blower. I finally figured out what the problem is, but need some advice on what might be causing it. I get air coming out of all three vents (heat, dash and defrost)at the same time no matter what position the selector switch is in. The a/c comes on in the correct positions and is off in vent and heater pos. The fan speed select works fine. All the vacuum lines in the engine compartment are connected. Any ideas.

    Rick
  • threebthreeb Member Posts: 1
    I've had my GSE in the shop for water getting under the passenger side carpet.It always got water after driven in rain.Problem finally solved;in front of passenger rear wheel a seam between the frame and body is supposed to have an insulating foam that was not there.The dealer went ahead and checked both sides while carpet was out.Dry now;great,sharp vehicle.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    I had the same issue with my Regal. Dealer kept saying it was a body seam. After three visits to try to fix the issue on the third visit I demanded they pull a TSB that states water can leak into the passenger compartment from the evaporator. Since this visit and the intallation of the elbow tube on the a/c drain the car is dry. I was about to Lemon the car, but so far so good. I still love this car despite this annoying challenge.
  • jackjtjackjt Member Posts: 178
    I'll try this one again, especially scine it is still happening to me. On a random basis, when I start up my 01 GS, I'll experince what I call a muffled backfire. Has anyone experienced this problem?

    I've had Buick evaluate it to no avail.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    was discussed for several days on the sister Edmunds board. GM recommends never change the oil, just add every 30k miles. Now, it looks as the recommendation is not good for the long term health of our superchargers.

    longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 23, 2002 3:29pm
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    [Currently pricing an '02 GS] - Let's see - GM puts a rather pricey piece of precision machinery ['supercharger'] into a 'premium sedan'; they fill it with oil and say, "Don't change it, just top it up". They don't mention the powdered-metal gears that will shed grits that will grind the really important vane bearings, nor is there provision for easy oil change. And people with 30K miles [still under warranty! - 'lucky' them!] are finding metal bits in a unit which spins very fast and hot during normal driving. So - why don't they use gears that don't turn to grits? Why not cool the damn thing properly? How about a convenient way to change that oil? Superchargers have been around since at least WWI; is making them durable a lost art? Has anyone here actually had one fail? Should I just buy another LS? [My '99 has zero prblems @ 34K].
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Where does that lost oil ['just top it up'] go?
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I did not see many owners complaints concerning supercharger. In reality, cannot remember a single complaint.

    I am hanging around this board for 2 years, starting several months before I bought my Regal GS. Also frequent the Gran Prix board, because GS and GTP, basically, are the same. There was an old board about Regal problems; also cannot remember anybody mentioning the SC.

    So, GM and Eaton probably know a couple of things how to build superchargers.

    However, I believe that extra care would not hurt. Possibly, replacing the supercharger oil regularly will let the part to live extra 100k miles or so. The oil costs about $5.50 according to longo32, and replacing it does not look difficult.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    Before buying the GS I looked into both with Pontiac and Buick as they are the only GM line using the supercharger. As anal as it sounds (and to satisfy and concern) I called different dealers and spoke with the most tenured service rep I could find and all of them said it is very expensive to replace and it was very rare occurance when one did fail. Most said if they did 3-5 in the average of 7 years or more while working with them that would be it. One told me the SC on our Regal/Grand Prix is the best around (Eaton)...he did say otherwise about the Rivera one...not sure if that was different.

    Anyway, for peace of mind I have the extended warranty to save a $2700+ repair bill if it does go bad. Although someone posted awhile back that the SC has a 7/70 warranty.

    I contiune to question the fact that you NEVER change the oil in it though. Perhaps an Eaton tech can help us understand.
  • jg28jg28 Member Posts: 257
    It's not working out for my Oldsmobile Intrigue and it is recommended for the Regal as well as the Grand Prix. If anyone is interested, please let me know.
  • y2112yzy2112yz Member Posts: 19
    I am glad that there are people who don't buy into the "fill it and forget it" way of thinking. I have 25,000 on my 01' GS and I know for a fact that I will changing the oil on mine at 30,000.
    I would rather spend 10-15 bucks for oil, syringe, and a short hose to get the bad oil out versus a new S/C or an expensive repair bill. Yeah the S/C have 7/70 warranty, but why take a chance.
    Since we are on oil changing, I am from the old school of maintanence where you change the trans fluid at every 25,000 mi. I know Dexron III is suppose to go up to 100,000 mi, but has any one changed the trans fluid at 25,000 or somewhere in that range?? I would rather spend 60 bucks now for a fluid replacement then a new trans later. The new Hydramatics are not cheap, especially the one in the S/C vehicles with the heavy duty gearboxes. I don't know the price, and I don't want to find out either what a replacement is.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    .
    Indeed the SC does have a 7/70 warranty. But for all you knuckleheads out there, the cheapest insurance for a car is frequent oil changes (that also goes for the sc). I've had cars that went a healthy 300,000+ with no oil-related problems because I change the oil every 3,000 - 3,500 miles (no matter city or highway driving). Next week I'm taking my 2000 GS in for service to change a B pillar molding (seems the sun warps these moldings.. at least here in L.A.). At this service, I'm going to change the supercharger oil. I may be nuts doing so after 20,000 miles on the odometer, but for $100, its cheap insurance for a car I like a bunch and plan on putting "a few more" miles on the odometer.

    Just my opinion...
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Well, on my other cars I change the fluid about every 30,000 (use a synthetic) but they are drain and fills and they have drain plugs. Why GM does not put plugs on the transmission pans is beyond me.

    SO, I am considering using a pump to pump out the fluid on the Buick and replace it around 25-30,000. You can tell a lot though by just looking at the fluid and smelling it so depending on driving 50-100,000 maybe okay
  • pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    Bushwack, see if you can find out how much those moldings cost. Mine are not warped but they are scratched (I bought my 97 used) and I was thinking about replacing them.
    I am going to change my SC oil this weekend, its a little over due at 50k, but better late than never. I also change my oil every 3000 to 3500 miles. Has any one had a problem with there seat heaters? My drivers side went out and its not a fuse as far as I can tell.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    Are you getting the dealer to do your S/C oil change?
    Is it $100..my dealer says they do not do...but then again they are a incompetent bunch of folks.

    let us know how you make out.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    I called Eaton today and spoke with one of the techs that handles their supercharger application and she said despite what everyone thinks the oil does not need to be changed just maintained every 30,000 miles. She did say that if I keep the car and get up to 100,000 miles then it should be changed at that interval.

    I questioned further and she said the lubricants and oils of today are so far advanced that it is not necessary to change like your engine oil. Similar, I guess, to the Dextron III trans fluid and the coolant flush intervals. Hmm, how confident am I in this?

    She aksed me if I had the Regal, GP or Bonneville. She did say that most of the sales reps at Eaton like the Regal over the other GM vehicles using the S/C.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I believe, that GM transmissions are using quality, long life filters with long-life Dexron III fluid. How could them otherwise suggest to change the fluid at 50,000-100,000 miles, and with some cars never.

    When my Malibu had transmission service about a year ago, the filter cost $80. The Firestone mechanic was surprised by high price.

    To change the filter, pan must be dropped, right? It can explain why GM does not use the drain plugs.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Puleeze! I'm old school and believe that fluids need to be changed. GM says do a LOF every 7,500 miles...For me, its 3,000 miles. As for the sc, they say MAINTAIN the fluid level...Hey, oil gets dirty even in a sealed environment. Changing ALL your fluids before recommended service is the right thing to do. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

    The dealer now has my car and is changing the s/c oil for $102.50. In about a year when I take my car in for the last 'under warranty' service, I'll try and have the transmission & brake fluid flushed and replaced. Just have to figure out a way to get this done under warranty ; ). To replace the B-pillar costs about $30 though for myself, its a warranty issue.
    .
    Footnote: If your car is still under warranty, take a look at your (black) front spoiler/air dam. Although flexible, it can crack under routine driving conditions. Have it replaced (if damaged and ) under warranty. Otherwise, its an expensive piece and an expensive repair (I was told over $500).
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Replaced a broken Malibu air deflector last fall. It cost about $100. Hardly will be 5 times more expensive with Regal.

    However, some part prices are crasy. The Malibu wheel cover cost $114.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Why is it so hard to believe that the oil in the S/C doesn't need changing (especially when Eaton says so too)? You can certainly change it if it helps you sleep better, but it is not like there is no precedent for permanent lube. Wheel bearings today don't need to have the grease changed, and they last much longer (often the life of the car) than the days when you had to pack them every 7,500-15,000 miles. They also have much more stress on them than a S/C. Manual transmissions are also permanently lubed, as are most differentials.

    Would you tear open your sealed wheel bearings to change the grease anyways?

    I also don't see why manufacturers recommendations on oil change intervals are so hard to swallow either. I mean, how do you determine where to draw the line? You change at 3,000 miles because you always have? How do you know changes at 1,000 wouldn't be better, or 10,000? Manufacturers use science and testing to determine their recommendations, so I'm not sure why people think intuition is more accurate. GM isn't paying for your oil change, so why would they care to extend the interval artificialy? Do people buy cars based on the maintainence schedule? The Corvette has a maximum oil-change interval of 15,000 miles if you drive it just right. I doubt they did that so that Corvettes will only last 100,000 miles before hitting the scrap heap. That is one nameplate that has too much going for it to screw up.

    I can understand being worried about your car, and I could see changing the oil early under special circumstances like when the car is new or if you think something leaked into it or if you drove in unusual conditions, but under normal driving I think the recommendations are quite reasonable. I can also understand wanting to buy quality parts, oils, and filters. I could also understand if you did some research (like oil sampling) at 3,000 and also at 7,500 to see how much difference it makes. I just don't understand the "that's how I've always done it" reasoning. Just my thoughts...
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I do not think the manufacturer recommendations are unbelievable. Just the opposite, I believe that 95 or 99% of owners will never have problems with SC.

    However, there is a report by a serious person about the SC oil he drained at about 50k miles. The liquid was in bad condition. Bad smell, and a lot of metal particles.

    So, at least some owners can have oil-related problems. Or possibly the bad oil points on related problems, e.g. a bad bearing at the SC nose.

    Given the oil costs $5.50, and draining it with syringe looks simple, I'd rather change it...
  • evizeevize Member Posts: 33
    What is the oil capacity of the SC... is 1 bottle of sc oil enough to do the change? I bought
    a bottle from my dealer to top up the oil & used 3/4 of it just to top up!. I think the bottle only
    contains about 4 or 5 oz.

    Ed
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I have no experience myself; longo23 drained the oil and reported his experience on the following Edmunds board:

    longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 29, 2002 11:08pm

    Better ask him, not me. Looks as you need 8 oz (2 bottles) of the oil.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have changed the PS fluid on multiple cars, well, syphoned it out via the holding tank and replaced it and I would like to do this on my 2000 Buick GSE in the future. I cannot locate the fluid reservoir for the PS fluid on this thing. Where is it? Is it a clear see through containier or a black hidden canister etc?

    As to the SC oil, I think I will change mine at next oil change, seems simple enough and see what it looks like at 25,000 miles.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    If I remember it right, the PS fluid cap is hidden deep behind engine accesories, on the belt side.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Will check that out
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    My warranty, that is. I just left the car wash with my '99 LS, and saw the headlamp assys were full of moisture! My dealer, who is trying to sell me a new one to replace this lease car, says it's "normal" and he'll just "blow them out with air". Now, as I drive around, most of the mist has evaporated from the units. Is this a warranty item? BTW, the new lease rates are sky-high and so I'm thinking of buying this otherwise zero-defects car. Thanks for any help!
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Headlights are sealed units, the assembly should not be permitting moisture into it. Around here they will not pass a car for inspection if the headlamps, plastic lens areas etc. have moisture in them
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    No, not the classic Buick portholes; I mean the headlamp assy weep holes which my dealer says had to be cleaned out [under warranty]. Problem solved, I hope. Doesn't fit with the "sealed unit" scenario, though, does it? I'll try another run through the car wash as a test. Thanks for your help, arm.
  • rickinririckinri Member Posts: 13
    I thought my girlfriend had left a window open, but it hadn't rained...She hadn't been shopping so it wasn't a leaky jug of water...

    I thought about A/C condensation, but it happened in December. (We don't use A/C in December in New England)

    OK, I give up. Why was my floor all wet?
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    How long have you had your GS.. I found this 13 months after I bought as there was so much water it was sloshing around on the floorboard. Everyone with a 2000 Regal LS/GS with a build date of around May 2000 should pull the carpet back on the right front passenger side to check this out.

    I had the same problem 3 visits to fix..had carpet replaced due to the time frame the water was in there. The first two visits they allegedly fixed a body seam that was not welded at the factory. Kept finding water though...On the third visit they claimed that the seam was not leaking so I asked them to pull the TSB on Water in Passenger Compartment...this is where the evaporator is allowing water to not drain out the car but in thar car. The solution was to install an elbow hose on the drain......
    I notice now that the A/C water escapes towards the middle of the car...So Far DRY......
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    At the 20,000 mile mark I decided to check the oil today to see if it was getting contaminated like several here have posted. Besides trying to locate the crazy sized allen wrench size to get the plug out this is a piece of cake to check. Anyway, oil was really clear and seemd fine, did not smell burnt or bad at all. \
    Question though. It was obviously not at the top of the plug and probably had 1/4 to 1/2 inch of space to add more oil. How do you know when it is full. Is it supposed to leak out of the fill plug as in a manual tranmission gear oil change??? How do you know when some needs to be added of if changed when you have added enough back in??

    I will change it anyway once I receive some replies to those that have done this,
  • rickinririckinri Member Posts: 13
    I can't beleive there's a TSB on this.
    My regal is a 2001 LS (as much as i would have loved the GS, i'd probably get pulled over too often)
    anyway, the car was built in June 2001, and the leak happened in December 2001. i froze my but off trying to sopp up the water (that was after i melted the ice)

    It's only happened once in the 10 months i've owned the car.

    I guess I'll call the local dealership tomorrow.

    Has anyone else experienced this?
    Thanks for the info.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I would suggest to ask on the Synthetic Oil board.

    longo32, who recently changed the SC oil, frequents there. He have a Park Avenue Ultra.
  • bpear95236bpear95236 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Regal GSE. The supercharger gives it loads of bottom end power. My car is just about out of warranty, and I wanted my dealer to check out my traction control. From a dead stop, with the wheels pointed straight ahead on a flat dry pavement my car will burn out for about 3 seconds with the traction control on. I was told by my dealership that it takes longer than 3 seconds for the traction control to start working. I was wondering if anyone else out their is experiencing the same thing with traction control on; or is my dealership just brushing me off.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Our GS easy spins from stop light on wet pavement, and sometimes even on dry - especially when there is dirt / sand on top of asphalt.

    I seldom drive the car, mostly my wife, and she is very smooth. However, when I drive and it rains, I slip the wheels once or twice almost every trip. I have a lead foot. The tracton control lamp illuminates sometimes on dash, but not every time, and I never feel it to kick in.

    However, I never tried to spin intentionally, even more for as long as 3 seconds...
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    I saw it today & will talk to the dealer/take for test drive tomorrow. I am looking at the base model...it's a dealer demo...4,900 miles. My questions to any who care to answer:

    1. What kind of discount can I expect on a demo car with 4,900 miles.

    2. Is it reasonable to expect that discount off the "invoice price" ? In my mind, I start with invoice and work up on a new car purchase ( down in this case ).

    3. How is this car to drive....what do folks like & dislike about the car ?

    4. I am thinking about getting an extended warranty to take the 3yr/36k manufacturers warranty to 5yr/60k miles.

    Thanks in advance....I will check back tonight & tomorrow.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have a 2000 GSE with the SC. Now have 20,000 miles on it, had it 13 months.
    Yes, a quiet car, the tires, not the best in the world.
    No real squeaks or rattle although I am not sure about the front glove compartment one that many seem to have, Not sure if I have that at times. No water leaks of any kind.
    Leather seats are fine, long distance is okay ( I drive a lot of long trips) , leather though is cold in the winter and hot in the summer, I may actually prefer cloth.

    This is a highway car, suspension is not the greatest for curvy roads, it handles ave to poor on corners at higher speeds, may be partly the tires too. Great highway car. Mileage is 19-22 around town but on the highway I get 30-31. The overdrive is great, at 70 mph the tach is at 2000 rpms, pretty low. Great engine, smooth power. Uses about 1/2 quart of oil in 7,500 miles.

    It does not have the built in auto garage door opener button which most new cars have today. It does not have a drain plug for the transmission pan, GMs just don't it seems. Oil filter a little difficult to get to but at least it is vertical. Battery will be tough to change, support rod has to be removed to replace battery.

    I don't like the way the wipers are designed. You cannot get them up to clean the windshield when they are in the down position due to the hood being in the way. Unless they changed that it is a pain. Passenger air filter really easy to change, engine air filter easy but had difficulty opening canister/box. Mechanical issues, well, at 750 miles they had to re-torque the oil pan bolts as it was leaking oil badly, all the bolts were loose according to the dealer. at 19,000 brakes were chattering, well, had been for a while, finally got it in they replaced all 4 rotors
    (why, in lieu of turning I don't know) but solved the problem. lug nut came off one week later though.

    This is a low maint vehicle basically, 50,000 severe trans fluid change, 100,000 normal. Coolant is 5 years or 150,000. Oil change indicator light seems to work pretty well. Basically a proven engine, timing chain not a belt.. Quality I would say is pretty good.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    Thanks for the post....I see from the prior 100 or so posts that I read, that the glove box rattle and water on the front passenger floor are the 2 consistant problems with this car. Funny, I have a 1999 Buick Century that has the same 2 issues.

    I am getting ready to turn in that lease and buy a new Buick. I was not going to get another Buick after the problems that I have had with this car, however, the rebates ( $2002 and $750 ) plus the GM dollars that I have saved up make it worth a second look. If I can get the dealer to come down somewhere near the invoice price, I should get a good deal. My main worries are reliability over 6-7 years and resale/trade-in value.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    On drive pavement with the traction control enabled, my '00 GS will burn rubber for a couple seconds before traction control kicks in.

    Reliability: With 20K on my car, I have had theEGR replaced under warranty (after just a few hundred miles on the odometer). I have had the dreaded glove box rattle (not that bad but a slight annoyance) and for whatever odd reason, I have had the interior B pillar plastic molding warp twice! I have the part on order and the third piece will be installed next week (takes a minute installation). Mechanically, the 3800 is a proven engine as is the transmission. As for quality, I'd give the car a 8 out of 10. Calculate the purchase price (value) into the equation, and the car is a perfect 10. Its tough to find another car that gives so much for (relatively) so little.

    Now, if the car only had a GPS system...
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    Finally, the day came to ditch the "bad"year LS tires on my GS. After looking at Dunlop I decided on the Michelin XGTH4 Pilots.

    I now drive a TOTALLY different car.....I now have more control over torque steer on launches. I no longer hear the tires howling for help on a fast turn. Handling and ride have become so much more crisp and tight. GREAT change!
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Pacinpelo... Can you tell the difference in the cars handling because they are MICHELINS or could it be because anything would be an improvement from near-treadless tires.

    I wonder if you'd feel the same if you replaced the GoodYear's with NEW GoodYears!

    I'm not trying to instigate anything. Just that fresh tires from practically any manufacturer (even Pep Boys!) would show great handling improvement over the worn out tires they replace.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    I noticed the tires are Firestone FR680's.

    The dealer gave me $100 over invoice, plus rebates of
    another $3,252. The car was sold once I took it for a test drive. I STILL cannot believe how much standard equipment comes on the car.

    I see in the Wall Street Journal today that some car makers are increasing the sticker price with various bumped up fees ( prep, options, etc ) and THEN coming out with a rebate.....circle jerk stuff, but this cannot be anything new.

    I also purchased the GM 5yr/60k bumper to bumper warranty.

    On the glove box rattle...I have a 1999 Buick Century with the same problem....funny how these "defects" run through the car lines.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Member Posts: 142
    You are of course right, new tires would be a difference.
    However as I remember the BRAND new Goodyears on my Regal, I noticed from day one that those tires simply just did not really have it (based on my driving habit), just the way the car behaved with them left something to be desired and I know fellow owners have shared same concerns.
    I noticed this also on my previous Goodyear tire cars 94 Grand Prix and 89 Regal GS each time I went with another brand the car and a step above the stock tires the car was better off.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I surfed the Michelin website looking at all the tire options. Seems to be a tougher decision than the actual car purchase (LS with Touring Suspension) :-) I have no idea what to buy when the Goodyears come off? Tried the tire selector feature, but wasn't sure which questions really applied to my wants/needs. I like the specs of the XGTH4. My question is what's a good compromise between performance and quiet ride (those being my top 2 priorities)? I lean more towards quiet ride than performance. Treadwear is also important to me... I like the idea of 80k warranty.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles