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Buick Regal

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  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Congratulations!

    By the way, why are you replacing the 99 LS? Not old yet...
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Because it was actually cheaper to go to the new car. And, the '99 was due for a tuneup, new brakes, etc. It was, however a zero-defect, trouble-free [never even a flat!] ride for 40K mi.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Thanks!

    GM lowered rebates today. Yesterday it was $2502 (in CT), currently and till September 30 will be $2000. Still a very good deal, especially for summer.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    FWIW-

    I used my GM card to make the down payment on the 2002 Regal LS I just bought. This added to the total of GM dollars that were available for use to buy the car. All I did was call to find out when my monthly statement closed, how long a purchase would take to post & how much available credit was available to use. The dealer was willing to take the down payment & deliver the car 10 days later. The GM Card folks said it was OK & it worked.
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    I, too, used $2K GM money; that was the limit allowed on a Regal [my dealer said GM was complaining about all those people with 5 and 6 thousand dollars in their card accounts]. Did you have another Regal before this one?
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    This was my first Regal, 3rd Buick. Owned 2 Century's before this car. I am growing to like the car, despite the severe lack of rear leg room....still cannot get over how Buick blew this one....the car could have easily done without 3-4" of trunk room to make the back seat comfortable.

    I don't see how 4 adults could fit in the car at the same time, unless they are all under 5'6"
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Like a lot of cars, rear legroom in the Regal depends a lot on where the front seats are. The trunk is big, but the overall length of the car [about a foot more than a Camry] is where that seems to be coming from.
  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    Got a great deal on a '98 LS with 17K on it in August of last year. Took it for its first long trip three weeks ago. Wow! Smooth as glass on the interstates, great handling on mountain roads, and on one tank, got 30.2 mpg! OK, so the injection-molded plastic interior is a bit tacky - who cares? Accord and Camry owners should really check this car out before they buy. The 3800-2 engine is great (don't get the super-charged model). And, to think I almost bought a new Civic ($17,500 out the door) instead of this Regal ($13,000 from a motivated seller)! No contest.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
  • pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    The large trunk is one of the main reasons I bought the Regal, and of coarse the SC. I have two small kids and the large trunk is a necesity. My kids are both under 4 so rear seat room was not a majer consideration. I am also only 5'10" and rarely have any adults in the back seat.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Member Posts: 24
    I own 2 Buick Regals, a 2001 and a 1998. I'm having a problem with the '98. The headlights occasionally not coming on when I start the car at night. This started out when they would click off momentarily then come on. They have also turned off when I was driving and would have to manually switch them on.
    When the headlights don't come on the dimmer light switch on the rear view mirror and the heater/ac blower switch does not work also. When the headlights do work normally the dimmer light and heater/ac blower switch work normal.
    Any ideas what can be wrong. It sure baffles me.

    The car has 42'000 mi. and out of warranty. I would welcome any suggestions. Thanks.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Elmo... I get 22-23mpg (01 LS) in town and less (20 - 21) when tempted at stop lights. Sure surprised some wannabe racers even without SC motor :-) If your car is new I imagine mpg will increase after you put a few miles on it.

    pinnetted... like you said and I'll see what changes as I start feeling small feet in my back :-)
  • jackjtjackjt Member Posts: 178
    I am 6'2" and my GS has great front seat room. If we need to use the back set, I can pull my seat up quite a bit. It still alows me to drive comfortably and affords acceptable rear seat room. For the price, it's a great car..
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Out of 1763 messages, yours says it best :-)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    As we all know, the purchase price isn't all that's involved in the true cost of a vehicle. Check out the article and new tool at Edmunds.com:


    True Cost to Own (TCO): Revealing the Hidden Costs of Car Ownership


    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/specialreports/articles/59897/article.html


    kirstie_h

    Roving Host

    Edmunds.com

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    That first year depreciation (01 LS bought 3/02) was the deal clincher for me. Being a Financial Analyst by profession, those TCO figures look realistic to me, but I'll check them some more.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I want to find a description of the option codes listed on my vehicle indentification plate. Is there a internet resource for this? Not all of them are listed here at Edmunds. I'm specifically looking for option code 1SC. 1SB includes the Driver Information Center that my LS does not have.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    True Cost to Own (highest to lowest):

    Crown Vic $13,104
    Intrepid $12,369
    Intrigue $11,214
    Regal $10,322
    Accord $ 6,404

    The Accord listed has the 2.3L 4 banger. Apples to Oranges comparison so I'm going to drop the "cramped" Accord from the listing. They always slip the foreign cars into the mix with a ringer.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    a good first attempt. However, it inflates substantially the 1-st year and total depreciation, using MSRP(?) as the purchase price. More realistic would be to use TMV minus rebates.

    Using 2002 Regal GS as example:

    MSRP - $28,095
    purchase price as in TCO - $28,157
    TMV - $25965
    current rebates - $2000 (was $2502 before 04/30)

    This means that depreciation was inflated by about $4200 in the TCO estimation. Even $6200 for GM card holders.

    On the other hand, TCO assumes zero property tax, even after asking for zip code. In our town the property taxes are almost 35 miles (3.5%) of assessment, with assessment being 70% of somewhat inflated "market" price (Kelly Blue Book or NADA?). This is almost $1000 for the first year.
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Exactly - My OOP {Out Of Pocket] cost should be reduced by about $4600 just for starters. My insurance, finance cost are also about $700 less. I guess as a tool to compare the RELATIVE rankings of different cars, TCO is useful. But it needs more data on options, etc. to give more accurate absolute values. Edmunds - don't give up! This is a good idea that needs refinement to be truly useful.
  • bigunit67bigunit67 Member Posts: 62
    Hey everyone,

    The factory Goodyear Eagles are in need of retirement on my '98 Regal GS . What are some good tire choices to replace them with? I'm not the most aggressive driver, and would like something with a better ride and wet traction than those standard pain-in-the-butt tires that came on the car :-)

    Thanks in advance for any pointers.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I use Zaino polish. A few more applications to go.


    image

    image

  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    TOC insurance estimation looks low. We are paying even less, but our rate is anything but typical for our zip code. It includes a part of inner city...

    However, the TOC estimation is probably close to average for the whole state or our county. I know families who moved to the next zip / town and are paying 50% less for insurance
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Nice car! I like so much the color.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I would use the users surveys on tirerack:

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp

    First select what type of tires you would like: touring, performance, etc. Then follow the link, for example for standard touring (the OEM Eagle LS are standard touring):

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/touring.jsp

    Any of the top 3-5 tires must be good. However, depending on where you live and your driving pattern, you may give, for example, higher weight to wet traction (Seattle) or zero weight to snow traction (San Diego).

    For example, I live in CT. Hilly terrains, winding roads. Not much snow, but the snow is very wet and snowfalls are sudden, with up to a feet falling in one hour. Mostly dry weather, but summer thunderstorms are rather strong, and downhill streams can cause hydroplaning. Addintinally, I like turning fast.

    Correspondingly, I would buy High Performance All-Season tires, and select a model resistant to hydroplaning and providing good cornering on wet pavement. Snow traction is of somewaht secondary importance for me.

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp
    Have Firehawk SH-30 on my Malibu, and like them very much. However, better tires are now available. Additionally, the SH-30 provides outstanding lateral wet traction (cornering), but a bit less of longitudinal. It does not matter with Malibu, but more important with 280 lb*ft of torque...
  • deibsdeibs Member Posts: 11
    Bigunit wrote: "The factory Goodyear Eagles are in need of retirement on my '98 Regal GS . What are some good tire choices to replace them with? I'm not the most aggressive driver, and would like something with a better ride and wet traction than those standard pain-in-the-butt tires that came on the car :-)"

    Well big, I've posted on tires a few times and I'm going to vote for Michelin. I drive very aggressively in the bay area of california and my Michelin XGT Pilot Z series are the tires to beat...at least I think so. The road noise is not much above the factory Eagles, but of course, we're talking very sporty tire indeed.

    Now...you may want to look into the MXV series touring tires from Michelin. They are standard on a number of sport sedans (BMW and others), and offer a good compromise between all weather handling and stick.

    If you can get a deal on Michlin tires, I would certainly recommend them. They can be pricy in some markets that don't discount them well.

    I removed my factory Eagle tires at 7000 miles, because I knew if I didn't, there was a great chance I would be in an accident because of them. They are wonderful if you are doing 65-70 on a freeway while going straight. But higher speeds and/or cornering duties shame these tires. The Eagles are very quiet, but have way too much sidewall flexure to be safe at high speeds.

    With the Michelin Pilots, my 99GS and I are safe, and the handling is remarkably better. Other mods have tightened up my chassis, but I'll comment on that some other time.

    p.s. regarding the SC oil debate. Someone said that the SCs don't fail. They rarely do, but I sprung and oil leak at about 10K with my SC and had the unit replaced. In general, the Eaton unit is pretty bulletproof, but they do occasionally fail.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    As a fellow Zaino-holic, here is my 2000 GS (picture taken last December). I plan on adding 3-4 coats of Z1& Z2 during Memorial Day weekend.

    image
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Your pic appears to be of the digital cam variety. My old Nikon 35mm scanned image can't compare. (picture taken 3/02)


    2001 LS
    image

  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I encourage you to follow the Help link at the top of this page. There you will find a link to provide feedback to the Edmunds.com editors about the new TCO feature, or anything related to the main Edmunds.com website. Your thoughts are important, and I do hope you'll take the time to express them to the folks who are making these things happen on our host site.

    Thanks!

    Pat
    Sedans Host
  • jackjtjackjt Member Posts: 178
    --Just compare (I did in 2001) a 40K plus sticker for an underpowered BMW 3 series, a price bloated Linclon LS V8 Sport, an ugly humped back Toyota Avalon, a hard seated, rough riding I-30 (the list goes on and on) to a 28K or less Supercharged, sharp looking GS? As I said a "Great car for the price" whether it be to own or to operate!
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    jackjt - Well said. About that BMW 3 - my neighbor just paid $40K for his with PLASTIC SEATS! [Self-dimming mirrors are part of a $4K package w/leather ONLY! And the LS beats them, too; just not as fast. [LOVE my $22K TMV '02 LS Abboud!].
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    On the V6 3800 my power stering fluid reservoir sits below and to the back of the alternator (2000 GSE) This is impossible to even check the fluid level. It appears that you must remove a frame brace then the coolant reservoir to even get in there to check the level.

    Am I missing something or is this an engineer's idea of a good joke?
  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    The pics look nice. But, what is this stuff?
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    I checked the fluid level, but only couple of times in 1.5 years I own the car. It is possible, but very inconvenient.

    Had to pass my hand behind the alternator and open and close the cap by touch. Closing is more difficult. Once the cap is removed, looked on the dipstick, as usual - but never into the reservoir neck.

    Of course, did it on cold engine.

    Most probably, would be more convenient to do this using a special inspection mirror. I bought one in Pep Boys in winter: A very good design, the adjustable mirror is on on a about 16" long half-flexible stick with a built-in flashlight. Somewhat expensive though: about $15 or $20, do not remember exactly. Did not used it with car yet, only for plumbing inside a wall.

    Did not need to add the steering liquid yet. Most probably it will require a funel with a long flexible neck.

    Looks as it is easier to left the job to technicians, but you are changing oil yourself...
  • scooter50scooter50 Member Posts: 2
    1999 Regal GSE. Had annoying rattle almost in my left ear - coming from rear passenger light/handle assembly. Tried tightening, placing felt pads in interior, no luck. Finally did the counter intuitive - backed off the screws holding it to the roof 1/2 turn each. Success! Seems it must have been rubbing with vibration from motion.

    Now, does anyone recall how to fix the dashboard rattle? The one that seems to come from behind the passenger side air vent?
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    the best auto polish I've ever used in my 28 years of caring for my personal vehicles.
    http://www.zainobros.com/
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Zaino is a terrific, easy-to-use auto polish that lasts and lasts and lasts...

    I Hope I did this correctly: Below is the link to the Edmunds forum on Zaino.

    <<a href="/direct/view/.ee9975f/3797">hammen2 "Zaino Car Polishes/Products--Your Experiences (Part 2)" May 3, 2002 1:52pm>

    If the links fails, go to TownHall-->Maintenance and Repair---> Zaino Car Polishes/Products
  • lamronh49lamronh49 Member Posts: 86
    Has anyone installed KBY, Monroe Reflex, Koni, or other tighter-controlling struts on their Regals? Or do I need to check with the Grand Prix or Impala boys? Thanks, LAMRON
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    After I complained about poor quality [a litle rough and slightly slippy] upshifts in my new LS, the sevice mgr said that the computer chip controlling the shifts would need a few miles to learn my driving style; then the shifts would improve. Well, it's about 100 miles later, and I have to say the situation is about 50% better. Am I imagining all this, or is there some truth to what he said?
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    It's "electronically" controlled, so my guess is the computer would be storing data on throttle positioning. I know my 01 shifts firm when you get on it at higher rpms, but you don't want a slippy shift then. Normal driving results in not noticing shifts and sometimes I only notice by watching the tach.
  • jpstaxjpstax Member Posts: 250
    My son's '93 Cavalier stopped running, so I sold him my '98 Lumina LTZ. So I just bought used '98 GS. My wife has a '00 GS, and absolutely loves it. Her's is bordeau red, mine is dark green. I too really like my GS. The first thing I did was install a K&N air filter (did the same her car). It really makes a difference! The car definitely responds much better. Beat a Mustang GT at a stoplight by a car length. He finally passed me at 50, when I had to shut down. The car also delivers more "bang for the buck" than any of the foreign performance sedans in the same class.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Just saw the Car and Driver show yesterday featuring all the GM project toys. I liked the looks of the GNX with the hood scoop, but I'm still not sure about the triple exhaust out the rear center of the car.
  • jpstaxjpstax Member Posts: 250
    I haven't read my new C & D yet. Is the new GNX powered by a SC 3800 with the smaller pulley from Thrasher Engineering that produces 270 HP and 300 ft-lbs of torque? I read an article 2 years ago that said Buick was experimenting with a new Regal (GNX) that had the Thrasher pulley and high flow dual exhausts. The 0-60 time was 6.2 secs.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I didn't catch everything (noisy kids) but it appeared to be the SC 3800. I didn't hear anything about the smaller pulley. Hood had a scoop with the old Buick style port holes (is that what you call them?) in the sides of the scoop (functional air flow, if I heard correctly) rather than in the front quarter panels. Someone here posted a link showing a new version of the Regal with those port holes in the front quarter panels. The one on C&D didn't look the same.
  • jpstaxjpstax Member Posts: 250
    I finally found a link that shows the L-67 engine parts in detail. It basically says what I've read in other posts: that you can't just bolt a SC on a 3800 motor and expect it to work properly.


    http://www.thrashercharged.com/L67_htm/engine_tear.shtm

  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    And you wouldn't have the heavy duty transmission to go along with that extra power and torque.
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    Thanks, lotech for confirming what the service mgr says. Although things have improved, light-throttle upshifts are definitely NOT unnoticeable. Although I'm sure Buick will makle good here, it still means some extra trips to the shop. Verdi.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Great post. Been looking for that for awhile also.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I can understand a little firmer shift with a new car allowing for some breakin time but light throttle upshifts should be very smooth. My 01 LS is the newest car I've owned in quite a few years so I'm waiting to see how much time I spend at the dealer. My 84 Olds spoiled me as it didn't have all the gadgets to worry about. Fuel injection is about the only hi tech thing on it. Replaced the computer and that cost me $180, but in 13 years I don't consider that bad... course I've had normal maintenance repair costs.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    What are folks here getting on trips for mpg ?
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