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Post 1997 (jbmalik): Have you tried Zaino?
I hope this link works to the Town Hall discussion forum on Zaino: <<a href="/direct/view/.ee9975f/4106">gdouble "Zaino Car Polishes/Products--Your Experiences (Part 2)" Aug 10, 2002 5:26pm>
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I had a flashback to being 16, just getting my drivers license and driving my mother's two year old 1975 Impala convertible with a 400 - 4bbl V8. As I as driving up HWY 1 yesterday (along the Pacific Ocean from Santa Monica to Oxnard). I 'played' with a mint '92 Mustang 5.0. Took him on the straights but he'd always catch up on the curves.
Ahhh....to feel like a kid again
BOUGHT THE CAR USED LAST YEAR WITH 11,500 MILES, HAD IT CAR FAXED, PAID $16,400 PLUS TAX. HAS EVERY OPTION EXCEPT HEATED SEATS. THIS CAR ROCKS. IS IT A REGAL OR A CENTURY? THAT'S WHAT I LIKE. UNLESS YOU KNOW, IT'S HARD TO TELL. DOESN'T STICK OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB. I ALSO OWN A '95 GS. TWO DIFFERENT CARS.HAS 99K RUNS STRONG.ANYBODY CONSIDERING A REGAL, OPT FOR THE GS IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.YOU'LL SOON FORGET THE EXTRA MONEY YOU PAID FOR THAT SUPERCHARGED 3.8. YOU GOTTA PAY TO HAVE SOME FUN...
Note two things on these samples. The silicon level which has dropped to normal ranges after about 20,-000 miles on the engine from a high of 173 to 18 ppm. Copper which is still too high for me but reduced considerably from 423 to 194 ppm. Note that on a per 1000 miles basis this went from 97 ppm/1000 miles to 15ppm/1000 miles., quite a decrease. Either the copper components in question are wearing very quickly and the engine will blow soon or the abnormal manufacturing of components has worn down to acceptable levels in the future. May never know. Does show the value of trend analysis and using the same oil over time to evaluate engine wear. .
Oil used in the last two samples was Amsoil 10W30 full synthetic, not the XL series. However, based upon the TBN of just under 5, I would say I could probably go 15,000 on this oil but very doubtful it would make 25,000. I am going to stick with the 12,000 mile change on this engine, which is about 60% interstate use.
Miles 4365 12190 12947
iron 29 21 18
chromium 4 4 5
nickel <1 <1 1
aluminum 8 7 6
lead 14 13 16
copper 423 306 194
tin <1 <1 2
silver <1 <1 <1
titanium <1 <1 <1
silicon 173 47 18
boron 61 9 3
sodium 11 7 7
potasium 15 <10 <10
moly <5 <5 <5
phosphorus 1067 1283 1215
zinc 1023 1502 1655
calcium 233 2575 3373
barium <10 <10 <10
magnesium 977 457 355
antimonty <30 <30 <30
vanadium <1 <1 <1
fuel % vol ? ? 1.0
total solids .3 .3 .3
water <10 <10 <10
visc 100C ? ? 11.5
SAE Grade ? ? 30
TBN ? ? 4.99
The lab is Analysts Inc. out of Hoffman Estates, IL. for all three samples. No oil additives used, gas additives are Amsoil PI, Schaeffer Neutra and Chevron Techron at various intervals.
With the a/c on 70% of the time in all city driving (stop and go traffic), if I get 12-13 MPG I'm a happy, happy guy. On the highway cruising 75+MPH , a/c on and driving for periods of 30+ minutes, I'll get 27-29MPG.
Prior to buying the car (and no matter the EPA estimates), I expected no better then 25 MPG hwy and a realistic 16 MPG city. Yet here I am getting significantly better MPG on the highway and terrible MPG in the city.
Go figure.
On a way off topic side note, ever since I installed a craddle and exterior antenna for my cell phone, I have yet to experience a dropped call (even while sandwiched between hi-rise buidings).
I bought my '00 GS in December 2001 and there were plenty of 2000's available (here in southern California). With some incentives and shrewed wheelin' and dealin', I recall getting $3,700 below invoice (and yet to tell them about my GM dollars).
Don't think about re-sale value. If you're going to hold on to the car for 5+ years, your best bet is to buy a 2002...preferrably in November and best in December.
Personally, I think the 2000 - 2002 model years will be the most reliable for this version of the Regal. 1997.5 - early 1999 had a/c and engine issues - most TSBs seem to be for those model years (and is typical for any new car for the first couple years). 2003, as you see, GM is holding back on standard features and making them options...though mechanically the car hasn't changed since late 1999.
Just my two cents..
It was just an interesting observation to note the revised options list...
I still have my 93GS which still runs and looks great...Great comfortable seats for SF to LA occasional drives cruising at 90...Still getting 29 mpg...But, sometimes you have to upgrade...
In the same price range, look at an Altima, Mazda 6 - I have heard you can get a V8 Aurora loaded for $29K out the door! There are just too many possibilities available today then just two years ago. I've read great things about a loaded 2003 Accord with an inline 6 and a Nav system for under $30K.
In today's climate, even the Regals SC engine no longer sets it apart from the othrs in terms of performance. As for luxury appointments, what was a bargain two years ago no longer applies.
Guys- Just my .02, below is what I posted a couple weeks ago re: my 2002 Buick Regal GS. Be sure to scroll to the past paragraph for an update:
Suggestion: If you're in the market for a Buick Regal GS, look for a 2002 or 2001 with a few miles on it. I got a 2002 Buick GS (no sunroof, no heated seats, no chrome rims - these are the only options (other than the Joseph Abboud package, which I don't like anyway) with 4400 miles on it. I paid $18,410, the original sticker was $27,500 and some change.
Here's what else I test drove: 99 Oldsmobile Aurora ($14.5K), 2001 loaded Grand Prix GTP ($19.5K), 03 Tiburon ($19.5K, don't ask, I tried to recapture my youth but my 6'3" frame said 'no way'). The Buick was hands-down the best bang for the buck. I really wanted the Aurora but there was no warranty left, can't take the risk. Beautiful car though.
Anyway, Fans of GM will note that the Pontiac Grand Prix has the same platform as the Regal. The ONLY advantage the Prix has over the Buick is styling. I test drove 3 GTPs, all less with 33K miles and there were more rattles and hums and cheap pieces of misaligned plastic than you could count. I REALLY wanted a Prix, but they're just not put together well. Plus their resale value is higher (more demand) so a nice used GTP will set you back more than a same mileage Buick Regal GS
The interior materials (and, I suspect, exterior) of the Regal rivals, in my opinion, Japanese cars. My friend is paying $450/mo for a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE loaded and let me tell you, other than the sunroof and the heated seats, I really don't like his car over mine. The Buick has a more comfortable ride and feels richer to me, and I believe it is faster (we both have automatic transmissions), but to each his own. Traction control and ABS work great. Acceleration is neck-snapping, observers/passengers will be surprised w/ the car's power. You can end up doing 80 without even realizing it.
The only quibbles I have with the car are minor. The standard wheels (not the chrome ones) look a little less masculine than the rest of the car. The rear view mirror could be larger. The fold-away driver's side mirror doesn't fold in all the way. Climate control is a little unintuitive. The multi-control stalk (which operates blinker, hi-beams, cruise control, wipers, etc.) can be a little confusing. Car is a little thirsty, expect 18mpg around town and 27 or so on highway. Driver's side window, when rolled partially down, rattles over bumps (this is the ONLY rattle I can detect in the car). Dark grey lea. interior without the sunroof can appear a little 'stark'. Factory tires (Eagle LS) suck, my next set will be Yokohamas, ranked #3 in consumer reports and $52/ea! (I forget the model name, sorry folks).
UPDATE, 9/8/02:
I've had the car for about 3 weeks now, have put on about 1600 miles, and I love it! I really don't have any major complaints. I guess the only one is it doesn't turn as much heads as I would like (no sunroof, no chrome wheels, etc. - let alone the Buick Regal isn't a head turner, even if it is loaded). ......To 'preserve' my car I am considering buying Zaino Bros. Wax, which I've researched and have been reading very good reviews about (see www.zainobros.com); as well as the 3M Scotch Guard pre-cut invisible "shield" for the high-wear areas on the car (I think the site is invinka-shield.com or something like that. Anyone who wants to know more info can post a reply here and I'll post it later).
Overall, I do love the car, esp. for the price I paid. Good luck!
Again, the outside temp reading should have nothing to do with how your a/c (or heat) works inside the car.
Has anyone else had any problems with the power windows? My rear passenger-side window won't work (fortunately it is in the closed position). I would bet that it is just a loose wire as the window was rarely used.
The only other defects that I have experienced is the plastic body panel on the outside of the rear door fell off one day while driving down the interstate and was replaced under the warranty.
And what is this with the carpet coming loose at the doors?!?!? I find myself constantly having to re-tuck the carpet ... couldn't they have secured it better than that?
Don't get me wrong, I love my Regal and love the performance and the highway ride (the gran touring suspension is a little rough at low speeds in town) I guess I expected near perfect reliability from Buick ... at least until I get it paid off.
Thanks for listening.
i just got home from a weekend drive to san diego with my wife and my parents. we rented a car and it so happened that a buick regal was available...the l.s. model, 1230 miles when we picked it up, leather seats, auto climate control, stereo with cd and cassette, besides the usual power stuff. lots of trunk space, and decent back seat comfort. 200h.p. was more than enough power for me. great passing power along highway 5. averaged 27 mpg for the whole trip...30 mpg on the drive home.
http://www.petitiononline.com/mod_perl/signed.cgi?GMcnsmrs&1
Sell your GM car while you can...
I'm not surprised you had that problem. I have it and very pissed off. Too bad I did find this out before I bought another GM car (RDX).
You may want to switch to the green coolant. The dex-cool coolant will eat up your gasket withing 100K miles or less.
I'm looking forward to either a Toyota or Lexus by year end after I see these problem prone GM cars.
BTW - the customer sevice rep from GM Buick is retiring soon and he somewhat admitted to hearing 1000s of problem but he couldn't do anything to help the lemming buyers like myself.
If any of the readers on this board remember the old school of maintenance. Where you changed oil at 3000 miles and every 25,000 miles plugs,wires,transmission and filter were changed. 50,000 miles for coolant or every year or so. I did this on my old 78' Grand Prix and 83' Celebrity and when I got rid of those cars they had nearly 180,000 to 220,000 miles on them. I stand by this practice even on my 2001 GS.
I don't buy these high mileage claims on the fluids in new cars. It never hurts to change these fluids early. We all know cars are expensive to buy, so why not spend a few extra bucks over the long haul to keep them running. If you just change oil and put gas in them and expect them to run for ever, you are sadly mistaken. No matter what manufacturer it is. Just my opinion....
I still own the Honda & plan on keeping it for a while. My most recent purchase was a 2002 Regal LS.
Other than the car having no kind of rear leg room & no ability to hold a reasonable resale value, it is a good car.
I bought the car based on the Buick reputation of quality, the rebates & the fact that it had more standard features for the price than anything from Honda, Toyota & Nissan. I purchased an extended warranty & will try to do all the scheduled maintenance.
Thanks for posting here & making this a good forum.
Passenger Air Cleaner every 15K
Engine Air Cleaner every 30K
Oil change every 3K
Transmission fluid every 50K
Drive Belt checked every 60K
Coolant at 150K OR EVERY 5 YEARS
I have the original engine air cleaner in my LS at 30K miles and it's clean, meaning you can't knock any particles out of it when tapping lightly on the floor. If I drove in worse conditions it would be replaced more often.
I always follow the extreme service schedule regardless of what type of driving I do. I will make sure the service department signs off on the transmission fluid service at 50K. The Platinum spark plugs should last 100K.
I am still unhappy and will not buy GM again. Especially since Buick has jerked me around for two months while they claimed they were investigating my claim and contacting the dealership where the work was done and they still want me to provide all this documentation. I think they were waiting for their bean counters and computer people to tell them if it was cheaper to offer everyone who complains 50% of their costs or face a class action law suit.
My next car will be my first Japanese car. Probably an Infiniti or Lexus even if it means I buy used.
Just for a laugh, I looked up the trade-in value on my 2002 Regal LS. 7,000 miles on it, purchased in April 2002. The invoice price was $22,124 & I took advantage of $3,250 in rebates. Subtracting the rebates, I get a real price of $18,874. The Kelley Blue Book trade-in value now shows $$13,870.
Am I missing something here, or did my new car just depreciate over 25% in 5 months ?
The private party sale value is a whopping $16,825.
I realize that you lose SOME value when you dive off the lot, but this much just seems TOO HIGH !
My parents would be a good example, they bought a 79' Regal used, the little two door job, and when they turned it in 1983 for a 4 door Le Sabre, they actually got back more than what they paid for it. That has not happened since then. It is frustrating. That is why I bought my 2001 GS used in 2001. When dealers where charging $26,000 invoice for a GS. I found mine at CarMax with like 12,000 miles on it for $20,598. Sometimes that is the better way to go. Take the hit and drive the wheels off of it!!!
They added what seemed to be a gallon of the orange coolant to the overflow tank. They said the level was well below where it should be.
I am wondering if they are wrong, if the dealer did not top off that tank when I took delivery, or if the car is using coolant.
Obviously I will keep an eye on this from now on...just wondering if anyone else had a similar experience ?
I wouldn't take my car to a Jiffy-Lube, Econo-lube or similar shop UNLESS I watched every move they make (and would only allow them to perform a LOF - no fluids to be checked or topped off).
I purchased the power window motor and the external temp sensor from my local dealer. The sensor was a dealer item and could not be found at a parts store, while the window motor was a lot less expensive from the dealer than a parts store. The sensor was $12.07 and a snap to replace. The window motor was about $80 (as opposed to $130 plus a core charge of $50 from the parts house). The motor took about an hour to change and was not very difficult. All is well now. The external temp did not immediately read correctly and I thought there might be a more serious problem but it read correctly the next morning and has been fine since. I guess it had to calibrate or something, I don't know. The temp reading had bugged me more than the window and I was happy to get it fixed so easily.
I also finally got around to calling the dealer to ask how to change the cabin air filter. I had tried to change it on several occasions before and could not figure out how to do it. The cabin filter was a bit of trouble to change, but it sure needed it at 55K.
The quick lube place that I use recommended replacing the fuel filter so I bought one. I cannot find it on the top of the engine and I am not going to crawl under to do it. I will let them do it the next time I get a LOF. I know they really wanted to sell me their fuel filter for 3 times the price but they will just have to settle for charging me for the labor.
I will have the car paid off in a few months and am planning to do some preventative service to it.
Any thoughts to pre-emptively replacing all the belts and hoses, thermostat, flush and refill the coolant, transmission flush and service, new plugs and wires and, from what I have read on this forum, replace the head gaskets?
It may seem a little silly, but I HATE to break down on some lonesome highway because of a $20 hose or something. Been there, done that ...it ain't no fun!
Thanks for the good discussions on this forum!
Cabin air filter replacement is throught the passenger side of the engine compartment just below the windshield. Been awhile since I changed mine wish I could offer you more help but the memory isn't what it once was. I do remember it took like 10 minutes to do.
1) 2,000 miles ago (approx 21k miles) the rocket scientists at the buick dealership turned my rotors but said the pads were fine...That was the LAST time they'll ever do that...brakes are grinding a bit already. I understand I need pads and that they're not covered by the warrantee, but I don't want to run out of warrantee with rotors that have been cut twice.
2) Can any of you drive with your windows open? I'm not sure if its' just where i have the seats, or if i need a stuffed animal in the back window to catch the wind or something, but if i have any more than one window open at speeds greater than 35mph, the wind vibration drives me absolutely nuts...Is this just poor design or is there anything I can do (other than just using the A/C?)
Thanks,
Rick
Also wondering what tire pressure folks use around here on factory tires ?