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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Post 1991 (Guy21): Excellent information regarding the sensor. Thanks. Can changing the sensor be done by a laymen or are there 'things' to move/remove to get to the sensor?
    .
    Post 1997 (jbmalik): Have you tried Zaino? :)
    I hope this link works to the Town Hall discussion forum on Zaino: <<a href="/direct/view/.ee9975f/4106">gdouble "Zaino Car Polishes/Products--Your Experiences (Part 2)" Aug 10, 2002 5:26pm>
    .
    I had a flashback to being 16, just getting my drivers license and driving my mother's two year old 1975 Impala convertible with a 400 - 4bbl V8. As I as driving up HWY 1 yesterday (along the Pacific Ocean from Santa Monica to Oxnard). I 'played' with a mint '92 Mustang 5.0. Took him on the straights but he'd always catch up on the curves.

    Ahhh....to feel like a kid again :)
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    Tom Petty (1991) Hmm, seems to match my post number. Anyway, the ambient sensor is in the wide open space between the radiator and the grill. It has one of those push-pin type fasteners, so no tools required. Good luck.
  • pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    I just recently had a Century for a rental and the interior looked about the same as my 97 GS. Tan inserts instead of wood, same dash rattles, same rear window rattles when only part of the way down. This must have been a 2002 model as it only had 2500 miles on it.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Just returned from a long trip. My 01 LS averaged 30.3 mpg (highway) which included Ozark Mountain driving, running ac, 75mph average, and +90 degree weather. In town it never dipped lower than 24.5mpg and that's good considering all the stop and go driving in Branson, MO. My wife didn't fare so well... she practically wore out the passenger side grab handle on those twisty roads :-) That Gran Touring suspension was a real treat. Entered several 35mph curves at 55mph with SUV's right on my tail. upon exiting the curves I no longer saw said SUV's in my mirrors (LOL). They should of been watching their speedo instead of yaking on those cell phones. Only problem is those blasted goodyear tires. Had them rotated and now I got a thumper on the front drivers side. Can't wait to get them off of there.
  • erniechippererniechipper Member Posts: 3
    JUST RETURNED FROM COLORADO IN MY 2000 GS. 100 MPH CRUISE CONTROL THOUGH NEBRASKA FOR HOURS.
    BOUGHT THE CAR USED LAST YEAR WITH 11,500 MILES, HAD IT CAR FAXED, PAID $16,400 PLUS TAX. HAS EVERY OPTION EXCEPT HEATED SEATS. THIS CAR ROCKS. IS IT A REGAL OR A CENTURY? THAT'S WHAT I LIKE. UNLESS YOU KNOW, IT'S HARD TO TELL. DOESN'T STICK OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB. I ALSO OWN A '95 GS. TWO DIFFERENT CARS.HAS 99K RUNS STRONG.ANYBODY CONSIDERING A REGAL, OPT FOR THE GS IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.YOU'LL SOON FORGET THE EXTRA MONEY YOU PAID FOR THAT SUPERCHARGED 3.8. YOU GOTTA PAY TO HAVE SOME FUN...
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    I like the Buick Regals as well however the build quality really has went down hill, my 2002 Buick Century has a dash board that rattles and squeaks, the plastic pieces just don't keep quiet, i've driven several cars/trucks in the past this has to be the worst for interior noise/dash noise.
  • andyeandye Member Posts: 4
    Just returned from an 1800 mile trip in my 2000 LS. Performed like Buick was still trying to sell it to me! Two days later the "service engine soon" light came on . Steady, not flashing. The car exhibits no other signs of a problem. I have checked the gas cap for tightness and have run the tank to almost empty before refilling it. That took several short trips and about 150 miles since the light came on. I now have about 100 miles on the fresh tank. The manual says, if its the gas, I may have to run more than one full tank through the engine. Any other suggestions before I see my mechanic?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Oil analysis on a 2000 Buick GSE 3.8L V6, Supercharged. Three samples reported, first column with OEM fill at 4365 miles, second at 12,190 miles and third at 12,947 miles. Oil and filter changed at each sample and for the last two samples the filter was also changed at about 6000 miles into the interval. Oil added in last two samples is about a quart including the filter change. No nitration or oxidation and the TBN and visc. available only for the last sample. Total engine mileage is 29,487 miles. Total sump capacity is 4 quarts 20 ounces. Oil in engine about 8 months. Filters were the Amsoil SDF 29

    Note two things on these samples. The silicon level which has dropped to normal ranges after about 20,-000 miles on the engine from a high of 173 to 18 ppm. Copper which is still too high for me but reduced considerably from 423 to 194 ppm. Note that on a per 1000 miles basis this went from 97 ppm/1000 miles to 15ppm/1000 miles., quite a decrease. Either the copper components in question are wearing very quickly and the engine will blow soon or the abnormal manufacturing of components has worn down to acceptable levels in the future. May never know. Does show the value of trend analysis and using the same oil over time to evaluate engine wear. .

    Oil used in the last two samples was Amsoil 10W30 full synthetic, not the XL series. However, based upon the TBN of just under 5, I would say I could probably go 15,000 on this oil but very doubtful it would make 25,000. I am going to stick with the 12,000 mile change on this engine, which is about 60% interstate use.
    Miles 4365 12190 12947

    iron 29 21 18
    chromium 4 4 5
    nickel <1 <1 1
    aluminum 8 7 6
    lead 14 13 16
    copper 423 306 194
    tin <1 <1 2
    silver <1 <1 <1
    titanium <1 <1 <1
    silicon 173 47 18
    boron 61 9 3
    sodium 11 7 7
    potasium 15 <10 <10
    moly <5 <5 <5
    phosphorus 1067 1283 1215
    zinc 1023 1502 1655
    calcium 233 2575 3373
    barium <10 <10 <10
    magnesium 977 457 355
    antimonty <30 <30 <30
    vanadium <1 <1 <1
    fuel % vol ? ? 1.0
    total solids .3 .3 .3
    water <10 <10 <10
    visc 100C ? ? 11.5
    SAE Grade ? ? 30
    TBN ? ? 4.99

    The lab is Analysts Inc. out of Hoffman Estates, IL. for all three samples. No oil additives used, gas additives are Amsoil PI, Schaeffer Neutra and Chevron Techron at various intervals.
  • kippy1kippy1 Member Posts: 2
    heads up out there to all of you who have the 3800 series one engine. Just replaced a plastic fitting that screws into the engine, underneath the intake manifold, behind the alternator bracket to which the hose from the water pump attaches (99,000+ miles, '95 gs). i was told by the parts guy, and again by a mechanic at buick that this is a very common occurrence. the [non-permissible content removed] is having to dig out the part that breaks off inside the threaded hole. this is a $10 part which is now made of metal. if you decide to replace, it is recommended that you spend a good deal of time cleaning the threads with a pick to ensure no leaks. use pipe dope on the new fitting. be sure to find and remove the old o-ring if not on old fitting. and while you,re at it, you may as well replace the hose too. (7-8 bucks).not sure if this is a problem with the series 2 and was told the sc has a different set up which does not include this part.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2001 regal. Took a trip to Atlantic city last week, averaged 31.5 mpg. I left in heavy rains with out using my a/c. On return trip I used the a/c. This includes stoping for about 20 tolls. Not bad milage
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    Thinking about trading in my 93GS on a new one...Notice that Buick has not only raised Base MSRP [$55]..., but now Anti-lock brakes [$600]...driver side-impact air bag [$350]..and Monsoon stereo [$395]...are all options now, bumping up base price about 5%, an additional $1400...Interesting way of squezzing out more money...Looks like finding a good 2002 is the way to go...
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Here is life driving in the big city (Los Angeles):

    With the a/c on 70% of the time in all city driving (stop and go traffic), if I get 12-13 MPG I'm a happy, happy guy. On the highway cruising 75+MPH , a/c on and driving for periods of 30+ minutes, I'll get 27-29MPG.

    Prior to buying the car (and no matter the EPA estimates), I expected no better then 25 MPG hwy and a realistic 16 MPG city. Yet here I am getting significantly better MPG on the highway and terrible MPG in the city.

    Go figure.

    On a way off topic side note, ever since I installed a craddle and exterior antenna for my cell phone, I have yet to experience a dropped call (even while sandwiched between hi-rise buidings).
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    All the manufacturers (from GM, Ford, Nissan , etc.) are keeping the MSRP at or very near the same price as last year but making what were standard items now an option. GM had an excellent incentive on most of their cars thru this past labor day (0% financing or rebates).

    I bought my '00 GS in December 2001 and there were plenty of 2000's available (here in southern California). With some incentives and shrewed wheelin' and dealin', I recall getting $3,700 below invoice (and yet to tell them about my GM dollars).

    Don't think about re-sale value. If you're going to hold on to the car for 5+ years, your best bet is to buy a 2002...preferrably in November and best in December.

    Personally, I think the 2000 - 2002 model years will be the most reliable for this version of the Regal. 1997.5 - early 1999 had a/c and engine issues - most TSBs seem to be for those model years (and is typical for any new car for the first couple years). 2003, as you see, GM is holding back on standard features and making them options...though mechanically the car hasn't changed since late 1999.

    Just my two cents..
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    With your two cents, and a what's left of my GM Card dollars, a wait 'til November/December to upgrade appears to be the most logical...I will look around then on GM's www.gmbuypower.com site to locate a 2002...

    It was just an interesting observation to note the revised options list...

    I still have my 93GS which still runs and looks great...Great comfortable seats for SF to LA occasional drives cruising at 90...Still getting 29 mpg...But, sometimes you have to upgrade...
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Bite my tongue for suggesting such a thing, but if your next car can be something other then a Regal, ...

    In the same price range, look at an Altima, Mazda 6 - I have heard you can get a V8 Aurora loaded for $29K out the door! There are just too many possibilities available today then just two years ago. I've read great things about a loaded 2003 Accord with an inline 6 and a Nav system for under $30K.

    In today's climate, even the Regals SC engine no longer sets it apart from the othrs in terms of performance. As for luxury appointments, what was a bargain two years ago no longer applies.
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    That what you say about the Regal's fading competitiveness in the marketplace is all too true. Maybe the '04's will restore things. In the meantime, those Buicks are selling for a lot less than $29K. My '02 LS Abboud stickered just under $29K, but I took it home for $22K [GM bucks helped, up to the $2K max]. And it's still a great driver. Smoother and less attention-getting than the 3.5 Altima I considered [about $5K more than the Regal, comparably equipped]. I'll be keeping this one [unless it goes "lemony" on me]. Which still begs the question, "Why can't GM get it right after all these years?"
  • jbmalikjbmalik Member Posts: 10
    Buick Prices: Bushwack, verdi942, Jack44

    Guys- Just my .02, below is what I posted a couple weeks ago re: my 2002 Buick Regal GS. Be sure to scroll to the past paragraph for an update:

    Suggestion: If you're in the market for a Buick Regal GS, look for a 2002 or 2001 with a few miles on it. I got a 2002 Buick GS (no sunroof, no heated seats, no chrome rims - these are the only options (other than the Joseph Abboud package, which I don't like anyway) with 4400 miles on it. I paid $18,410, the original sticker was $27,500 and some change.

    Here's what else I test drove: 99 Oldsmobile Aurora ($14.5K), 2001 loaded Grand Prix GTP ($19.5K), 03 Tiburon ($19.5K, don't ask, I tried to recapture my youth but my 6'3" frame said 'no way'). The Buick was hands-down the best bang for the buck. I really wanted the Aurora but there was no warranty left, can't take the risk. Beautiful car though.

    Anyway, Fans of GM will note that the Pontiac Grand Prix has the same platform as the Regal. The ONLY advantage the Prix has over the Buick is styling. I test drove 3 GTPs, all less with 33K miles and there were more rattles and hums and cheap pieces of misaligned plastic than you could count. I REALLY wanted a Prix, but they're just not put together well. Plus their resale value is higher (more demand) so a nice used GTP will set you back more than a same mileage Buick Regal GS

    The interior materials (and, I suspect, exterior) of the Regal rivals, in my opinion, Japanese cars. My friend is paying $450/mo for a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE loaded and let me tell you, other than the sunroof and the heated seats, I really don't like his car over mine. The Buick has a more comfortable ride and feels richer to me, and I believe it is faster (we both have automatic transmissions), but to each his own. Traction control and ABS work great. Acceleration is neck-snapping, observers/passengers will be surprised w/ the car's power. You can end up doing 80 without even realizing it.

    The only quibbles I have with the car are minor. The standard wheels (not the chrome ones) look a little less masculine than the rest of the car. The rear view mirror could be larger. The fold-away driver's side mirror doesn't fold in all the way. Climate control is a little unintuitive. The multi-control stalk (which operates blinker, hi-beams, cruise control, wipers, etc.) can be a little confusing. Car is a little thirsty, expect 18mpg around town and 27 or so on highway. Driver's side window, when rolled partially down, rattles over bumps (this is the ONLY rattle I can detect in the car). Dark grey lea. interior without the sunroof can appear a little 'stark'. Factory tires (Eagle LS) suck, my next set will be Yokohamas, ranked #3 in consumer reports and $52/ea! (I forget the model name, sorry folks).

    UPDATE, 9/8/02:

    I've had the car for about 3 weeks now, have put on about 1600 miles, and I love it! I really don't have any major complaints. I guess the only one is it doesn't turn as much heads as I would like (no sunroof, no chrome wheels, etc. - let alone the Buick Regal isn't a head turner, even if it is loaded). ......To 'preserve' my car I am considering buying Zaino Bros. Wax, which I've researched and have been reading very good reviews about (see www.zainobros.com); as well as the 3M Scotch Guard pre-cut invisible "shield" for the high-wear areas on the car (I think the site is invinka-shield.com or something like that. Anyone who wants to know more info can post a reply here and I'll post it later).

    Overall, I do love the car, esp. for the price I paid. Good luck!
  • oldcarzoldcarz Member Posts: 4
    Both cars have 6.8 0-60mph times, very quick. Hands down, the GTP is the better looker and has a HIGHER Resale value %, also true cost to own and maintenance & Repairs are cheaper over a 5yr period for a GTP then a S/C Regal. Check Edmunds calculator. Also note a NEW loaded regal is about $2k more then a GTP to start out with! I've driven both. The GTP seems to have better handling and a sportier ride, feeling wise. Yes the interior is on the cheap side on the GTP, but it does hold up better then you think. I had a '97 GP with 52k miles that I bought new, just traded in on a new 2002 GTP. 5yrs later, all my switch gear still worked and looked like new. My plastic was NOT misaligned. Could have been the previous owners on the 3 you drove? Thats why I don't buy used cars, you never know how they were taken care of. The GTP was loaded at $28,240 msrp. Got it for a tad over $22,000, including the $3k rebate. 2002 is the last year of the 2 door GTP. Dealers were trying to unload them. Esp since 2 doors don't sell as well. Good luck, the Regal with the blown 3800 does fly. Remember its faster then an automatic Maxima or automatic Altima, 0-60 and 1/4 mile and gets better highway mileage then both. 28 vs 26. A manual shift max or alt is another story, they are faster.
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    You got a great deal on a lightly used GS. I got the Abboud pkg, not because I really wanted it but because it had the GT springs and Monsoon radio I DID want. It sounds nuts, but a basic LS with those options would have been MORE money! And there's a sunroof and leather I can take or leave. Now, if I can only top 30mpg...
  • mrrogersmrrogers Member Posts: 391
    I have a 2001 Regal LS with 52,000 miles. Over the last couple of weeks, I have noticed a delayed shift problem with the automatic transmission. I will be going about 45 mph in 3rd gear, and traffic will slow down in front of me for instance if someone slows to make a left turn. The person slows to maybe 25, so I slow also. He makes his left, and I have open road in front of me. I push the throttle about 3/4's of the way to the floor, and the car immediately downshifts to second. All of a sudden, the car shifts to neutral, revs to 5,500 RPM, and then shifts to first. I changed the trans fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF at 36,000 miles and replaced the trans filter at the same time. Alldata has two technical service bulletins. I am out of warranty. Any ideas?
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    The day I walk into a Honda or Toyota showroom...I told my wife to take me out behind the barn and shoot me...
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Ya know...there are plenty of people in the Edmund's forums that would be happy to supply the ammo :)
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    You may need the midas touch to fix that...
  • mrrogersmrrogers Member Posts: 391
    I took the car to my GM dealer yesterday, and the service manager roadtested the car with me. He was unable to duplicate the delayed shift. Since I did not get the check engine light to come on, he does not believe it is an electrical fault. He suggested that he disconnect the transmission lines and do a "power flush" to remove any debris from the transmission. He said there is no need to change the transmission filter again since I just changed it at 36,000 miles. Does this make sense?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The flush is fine but I would change the filter after the flush. Yes, a pain and more fluid but the flush is to remove debris and if caught in the filter you are plugging up a good filter and it should be replaced after the flush to do it properly IMHO.
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    Would agree with armtdm...I've a 93 and do a transmission checkup at a great local shop about every 2-3 years, just to be on the safe side...and just a reflection, 52,000 miles on a 2001...that's a hell of a lot of miles...Checkups can be cheap insurance...
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    I owned a Toyota... once. I bought it new... was a piece of junk. Engine problems at 50K that continued up to 100K when I finally decided to stop contributing to the oil company CEO pension fund. One quart of oil every 300 miles from 50K to 100K odometer miles. Service dept at the local Toyota shop couldn't figure out where the oil was going... they checked everywhere but no clue. Never again.
  • marklszymarklszy Member Posts: 1
    I am having a constant problem with the useless system. The external temperature reading sticks at one reading and will not adjust upward as the temp. rises. (Example: A.M. temp. is 60 and reading is 60 and during the day, the temp rises to 90 and the system will remain at 60 and not rise. As a result the system does not respond to the 90 outside temp. This has been repaired/replaced by the dealership on three occasions and it still does not work properly. Anyone else having the same type problem?
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    Hmm...The reading of the outside temperature has no bearing on how well my cliamte control system works inside. I'm not sure what the issue is other then having to replace the temperature gauge near the radiator (which I've had the dealer done for me a couple times under similar complaints like yours).

    Again, the outside temp reading should have nothing to do with how your a/c (or heat) works inside the car.
  • jclowerjclower Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Regal LS with 55,000 miles and also have the problem with the external temp reading. It happened only a couple of times (on very hot days) last summer when the car was still in warranty. This summer, it is rare for the thing to read correctly at all. It does not effect the performance of my A/C. I am glad to read that it is apparently easily remedied with a new temp sensor, but am wondering how much it will cost me.

    Has anyone else had any problems with the power windows? My rear passenger-side window won't work (fortunately it is in the closed position). I would bet that it is just a loose wire as the window was rarely used.

    The only other defects that I have experienced is the plastic body panel on the outside of the rear door fell off one day while driving down the interstate and was replaced under the warranty.

    And what is this with the carpet coming loose at the doors?!?!? I find myself constantly having to re-tuck the carpet ... couldn't they have secured it better than that?

    Don't get me wrong, I love my Regal and love the performance and the highway ride (the gran touring suspension is a little rough at low speeds in town) I guess I expected near perfect reliability from Buick ... at least until I get it paid off.

    Thanks for listening.
  • gmusic7gmusic7 Member Posts: 42
    hello all,

    i just got home from a weekend drive to san diego with my wife and my parents. we rented a car and it so happened that a buick regal was available...the l.s. model, 1230 miles when we picked it up, leather seats, auto climate control, stereo with cd and cassette, besides the usual power stuff. lots of trunk space, and decent back seat comfort. 200h.p. was more than enough power for me. great passing power along highway 5. averaged 27 mpg for the whole trip...30 mpg on the drive home.
  • pvnguyenpvnguyen Member Posts: 21
    I've been a loyal customer of GM. I currently own a 2002 Buick Rendezvous, 2000 Pontiac Montana, 1998 Buick Regal, and 1996 Chevy Lumina. I think everyone should know that GM sucks! I replaced the Lumina's engine last year due to a coolant leak at 65K ($5.5K). Earlier this year, I replaced the gaskets on the Regal due to a coolant leak ($750) and this past week, I replaced the the Montana's intake manifold gaskets for $700. Apparently, there is a known problem with the gaskets and dex cool coolant combo. I'm now using the regular green stuff. If you don't believe me, check this site out:


    http://www.petitiononline.com/mod_perl/signed.cgi?GMcnsmrs&1


    Sell your GM car while you can...

  • kdawg79kdawg79 Member Posts: 26
    I have a 1998 GS with 75,000 miles on it and I have had to replace 3 power window motors(3 different windows), the climate control display/control unit has been replaced twice, the pan gasket and one valve cover gasket replaced due to oil leaks. Also had to spend $400 on the cooling system because the supposedly 150,000 mile Dexcool coolant gave up before 75,000 miles and left my cooling system corroded and full of junk. I have always purchased GM cars and defended them but no more.
  • pvnguyenpvnguyen Member Posts: 21
    kdawg79:

    I'm not surprised you had that problem. I have it and very pissed off. Too bad I did find this out before I bought another GM car (RDX).

    You may want to switch to the green coolant. The dex-cool coolant will eat up your gasket withing 100K miles or less.

    I'm looking forward to either a Toyota or Lexus by year end after I see these problem prone GM cars.

    BTW - the customer sevice rep from GM Buick is retiring soon and he somewhat admitted to hearing 1000s of problem but he couldn't do anything to help the lemming buyers like myself.
  • y2112yzy2112yz Member Posts: 19
    I have been on this board posting messages for awhile now and it seems that people are having issues with fluids not lasting as long as they are suppose to. My feeling is that if GM claims 150,000 miles for DEX-COOL then it should, keyword here should, last that long. Or 100,000 miles in the case of transmission fluid. But, in the real world it doesn't. I don't care how advanced these fluids are. Living in the Chicago area, our weather can get quite cold and hot in a years time and that takes a toll on cars and trucks.
    If any of the readers on this board remember the old school of maintenance. Where you changed oil at 3000 miles and every 25,000 miles plugs,wires,transmission and filter were changed. 50,000 miles for coolant or every year or so. I did this on my old 78' Grand Prix and 83' Celebrity and when I got rid of those cars they had nearly 180,000 to 220,000 miles on them. I stand by this practice even on my 2001 GS.
    I don't buy these high mileage claims on the fluids in new cars. It never hurts to change these fluids early. We all know cars are expensive to buy, so why not spend a few extra bucks over the long haul to keep them running. If you just change oil and put gas in them and expect them to run for ever, you are sadly mistaken. No matter what manufacturer it is. Just my opinion....
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    Read your posts & have to respond only from my personal experience. I have owned 4 new Ford products, 2 new GM's & one new Honda. Of the group, only the Honda has provided worry-free driving, been reliable & not a repair-shop regular, not subject to repeated mickey-mouse fit & finish problems & most of all, held it's resale value.

    I still own the Honda & plan on keeping it for a while. My most recent purchase was a 2002 Regal LS.
    Other than the car having no kind of rear leg room & no ability to hold a reasonable resale value, it is a good car.

    I bought the car based on the Buick reputation of quality, the rebates & the fact that it had more standard features for the price than anything from Honda, Toyota & Nissan. I purchased an extended warranty & will try to do all the scheduled maintenance.

    Thanks for posting here & making this a good forum.
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    Buick says to do the following under extreme operating conditions:

    Passenger Air Cleaner every 15K
    Engine Air Cleaner every 30K
    Oil change every 3K
    Transmission fluid every 50K
    Drive Belt checked every 60K
    Coolant at 150K OR EVERY 5 YEARS

    I have the original engine air cleaner in my LS at 30K miles and it's clean, meaning you can't knock any particles out of it when tapping lightly on the floor. If I drove in worse conditions it would be replaced more often.

    I always follow the extreme service schedule regardless of what type of driving I do. I will make sure the service department signs off on the transmission fluid service at 50K. The Platinum spark plugs should last 100K.
  • kdawg79kdawg79 Member Posts: 26
    I filed a complaint two months ago with Buick Customer Service about my problems with the DEXCOOL going south at less than 75,000 miles and costing me $400 worth of work to my cooling system. Last night I got an email from Buick offering me a 50% reimbursement contingent upon my providing to them proof of car ownership, the work order, proof of payment of the work order costs and a short note explaining my problem and why I am requesting reimbursement. I took the offer.

    I am still unhappy and will not buy GM again. Especially since Buick has jerked me around for two months while they claimed they were investigating my claim and contacting the dealership where the work was done and they still want me to provide all this documentation. I think they were waiting for their bean counters and computer people to tell them if it was cheaper to offer everyone who complains 50% of their costs or face a class action law suit.

    My next car will be my first Japanese car. Probably an Infiniti or Lexus even if it means I buy used.
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I just wanted to see if I am missing something here.

    Just for a laugh, I looked up the trade-in value on my 2002 Regal LS. 7,000 miles on it, purchased in April 2002. The invoice price was $22,124 & I took advantage of $3,250 in rebates. Subtracting the rebates, I get a real price of $18,874. The Kelley Blue Book trade-in value now shows $$13,870.

    Am I missing something here, or did my new car just depreciate over 25% in 5 months ?

    The private party sale value is a whopping $16,825.

    I realize that you lose SOME value when you dive off the lot, but this much just seems TOO HIGH !
  • y2112yzy2112yz Member Posts: 19
    I checked with Kelley Blue Book and the private sale on the vehicle is $16,975 with the mileage you gave. I could be wrong, but once the 2003 models come out, they almost consider this car a year old even though you just bought it back in April. I am probably wrong here, but that is my thinking anyway. The other reason why cars are not holding value is because of all the rebates the GM is giving away and plus the fact that most people don't hang onto their vehicles as long as they once did. If someone hangs on to their car for more than 3-4 years, they are lucky. Before people would drive them until the wheels fall off and they would hold their value longer.
    My parents would be a good example, they bought a 79' Regal used, the little two door job, and when they turned it in 1983 for a 4 door Le Sabre, they actually got back more than what they paid for it. That has not happened since then. It is frustrating. That is why I bought my 2001 GS used in 2001. When dealers where charging $26,000 invoice for a GS. I found mine at CarMax with like 12,000 miles on it for $20,598. Sometimes that is the better way to go. Take the hit and drive the wheels off of it!!!
  • verdi942verdi942 Member Posts: 304
    ...like Avalons 'n' Lexi [Lexuses?] 'n' Beemers, etc. BUT!!!..They list for more and SELL NEW for more than Regals. ANNND...they're not necessarily built much better. Soooo....drive your Buick into the ground [may it take MANY miles] and enjoy a different kind of bargain car. For the record, my '02 LS Abboud, which stickered for $30K, tax included, will be mine in 3 years for $22K, tax included. By then, of course, it'll be worth about $8K, tops. And, unless it goes 'lemony', it'll still be a superior automobile.
  • mwdreammwdream Member Posts: 91
    I've replaced 2 window motors under 40k miles on my 98 Regal GS. And currently have a 3rd sticking or broke. I don't know what the deal is... I guess just plain old cheap parts. My wife just had both her window motors replaced on 97 GMC Safari with 55k miles. Lucky ext. warranty covered the $300 each job. Never buy a used GM car without extended warranty!
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    Just had the oil changed at a Valvoline instant oil change place. I have 7800 miles on a 2002 Regal LS.

    They added what seemed to be a gallon of the orange coolant to the overflow tank. They said the level was well below where it should be.

    I am wondering if they are wrong, if the dealer did not top off that tank when I took delivery, or if the car is using coolant.

    Obviously I will keep an eye on this from now on...just wondering if anyone else had a similar experience ?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    My 2000 was also low from the factory but I did not need a gallon to bring it up to snuff. Maybe a quart. Has not changed since then. I think the factory is saving a few pennies per car on the coolant and the tank is also shaped very weird.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    I don't think it was a good idea to have them top off your reserve coolant tank. If the tank was low, I would have driven to a Buick dealer and have them top it off (if needed).

    I wouldn't take my car to a Jiffy-Lube, Econo-lube or similar shop UNLESS I watched every move they make (and would only allow them to perform a LOF - no fluids to be checked or topped off).
  • jclowerjclower Member Posts: 2
    An update on my earlier post number 2030:

    I purchased the power window motor and the external temp sensor from my local dealer. The sensor was a dealer item and could not be found at a parts store, while the window motor was a lot less expensive from the dealer than a parts store. The sensor was $12.07 and a snap to replace. The window motor was about $80 (as opposed to $130 plus a core charge of $50 from the parts house). The motor took about an hour to change and was not very difficult. All is well now. The external temp did not immediately read correctly and I thought there might be a more serious problem but it read correctly the next morning and has been fine since. I guess it had to calibrate or something, I don't know. The temp reading had bugged me more than the window and I was happy to get it fixed so easily.

    I also finally got around to calling the dealer to ask how to change the cabin air filter. I had tried to change it on several occasions before and could not figure out how to do it. The cabin filter was a bit of trouble to change, but it sure needed it at 55K.

    The quick lube place that I use recommended replacing the fuel filter so I bought one. I cannot find it on the top of the engine and I am not going to crawl under to do it. I will let them do it the next time I get a LOF. I know they really wanted to sell me their fuel filter for 3 times the price but they will just have to settle for charging me for the labor.

    I will have the car paid off in a few months and am planning to do some preventative service to it.
    Any thoughts to pre-emptively replacing all the belts and hoses, thermostat, flush and refill the coolant, transmission flush and service, new plugs and wires and, from what I have read on this forum, replace the head gaskets?

    It may seem a little silly, but I HATE to break down on some lonesome highway because of a $20 hose or something. Been there, done that ...it ain't no fun!

    Thanks for the good discussions on this forum!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    That would be a first for me. Then again, I never thought of the preventative maintenance angle on that one. Just remember there are two to replace.

    Cabin air filter replacement is throught the passenger side of the engine compartment just below the windshield. Been awhile since I changed mine wish I could offer you more help but the memory isn't what it once was. I do remember it took like 10 minutes to do.
  • rickinririckinri Member Posts: 13
    Well two quick things...
    1) 2,000 miles ago (approx 21k miles) the rocket scientists at the buick dealership turned my rotors but said the pads were fine...That was the LAST time they'll ever do that...brakes are grinding a bit already. I understand I need pads and that they're not covered by the warrantee, but I don't want to run out of warrantee with rotors that have been cut twice.
    2) Can any of you drive with your windows open? I'm not sure if its' just where i have the seats, or if i need a stuffed animal in the back window to catch the wind or something, but if i have any more than one window open at speeds greater than 35mph, the wind vibration drives me absolutely nuts...Is this just poor design or is there anything I can do (other than just using the A/C?)
    Thanks,
    Rick
  • mrrogersmrrogers Member Posts: 391
    On my 98 LS, I had the rotors turned at 30,000 miles, and replaced them at 75,000 miles. My 2001 LS has 55,000 miles, and the original rotors have never been turned, and they work fine. I wonder if GM changed the rotor design at some point?
  • elmoblatch1elmoblatch1 Member Posts: 134
    Actually, I did watch as the service was performed on the car. I am not sure how much coolant was added...what may have SEEMED like a gallon may have been a quart or 2.

    Also wondering what tire pressure folks use around here on factory tires ?
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