Buick Regal

yurakm · June 2004

Thank you!

jpstax1 · June 2004

I don't know if this subject has been brought up in the past, but I need a little help. The top portion of my '98 Regal's leather-wrapped steering wheel was peeling, so I had it replaced last month. The auto upholstery shop owner said that this is a common problem with many GM cars and some Fords too. He said that body oils in the fingers work their way into the leather and cause peeling. I asked him what to do to prevent it from happening again. He suggested using a good leather conditioner. I posted my problem in a different forum and some people suggested using "Coach Leather Moisturizer". My wife just happens to have a bottle of the stuff that she uses to clean her leather purses. However, the back label says "it is not to be used on suede, nubic, water buffalo, or on fabric and leather collections". Does anyone have any suggestions?

pat · June 2004

Seems like if the leather wrap is really leather, the Coach moisturizer would be fine, wouldn't it? Not sure what they mean by "fabric and leather collections" - seems odd that a leather moisturizer shouldn't be used on whatever that is, though.

If you haven't already, you might want to look through the various Town Hall discussions on leather. Most of them are archived, but they still have good information. There is one active one where you could also post. Just put "leather" into the keyword search on the left side of the page to find them.

dan1 · June 2004

We traded in the Regal this weekend. Without a doubt the worst car I ever owned. Obviously the dealer agreed as we only got $2700.00 for it.

Heres the final problem tally:

water pump & seat heater
carpet pulling out from sides
oil and valve cover leaking

Water in headlights had to replace 1 driving
light after the OEM bulb burned a whole in it and it filled up with water.

Dash display would go haywire.

Fan/AC would only work on high or not at all.

Various broken trim pieces.

Various rattles and sqeaks.

Windows creak if only halfway down.

Check emissions light would come on after any extended highway time. Nothing found wrong?

Worst paint on any car I have owned if they put any thinner of a coat on they would have to take some off.

Automatic lights would click off an on then go out sometimes had to manually turn them on.

You have to be standing next to the car to use the keyless remote.

Thats all I remember, it will be a long time before I will consider another GM and I know everyone will say there are always lemons but I have been in two other Regal/Century's one with only 1k on the clock and it exibited some of the same problems as my 97.

jpstax1 · June 2004

What year Regal are we talking about, and how many miles did you have on it when your problems arose? I too had leaking valve covers and oil seals, a bad water pump, and a flickering temperature display in my '98 GS that currently has 53K miles. However, I had the good sense to buy a 3 year extended warranty that covered all of those problems. Plus, my 3800 Series II engine has NEVER failed to start, even when it was 20 below zero outside. Any car owner should expect some minor problems from any car made on an assembly line. I'm sure Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, Toyota, Nissan, etc. owners have also had similar problems. Even BMW, Lexus, and Mercedes owners know that no car is perfect. Parts wear out from everyday usage.

Jack44 · June 2004

Bye Dan...Enjoy your Honda...

verdi942 · June 2004

Shouldn't happen to any car, much less a "Premium" sedan built by Buick. Unless we're talking about more than, say, 100K miles. I've owned two Regals, '99 and '02, and haven't seen any of those troubles. Nor have I seen more than 40K miles, either. So, are you unlucky and I'm just lucky? Hey, we're talking about a $20,000 - $30,000 purchase here! My Honda/Toyota/Nissan/BMW driving friends, spending similar money, don't have those kinds of problems, either. Anyway, as far as new cars go, well, forget Regals, and, soon, Centurys. Replaced by LaCrosse, coming out of the same factory. LaCrosse is built on the same old platform, so it's NOT an all-new car, like the new real good looking Chrysler 300 which is being marketed as a "premium" sedan, too. Everyone says the new Buick model will be assembled much better, which still begs the question of how reliable those little parts like displays, lights, gaskets, etc. will be. But we Buick loyalists shouldn't accept anything less than the competition offers - or buy something else.

yurakm · June 2004

97 is the first year the current model of Regal was built. With average American car running 12k miles per year, I would expect the car to have about 80k to 90k+ miles on odometer.

According to Edmunds, the typical trade-in price for the make and model, with typical options, are about $3375 for LS trim, $3800 for GS. Given the discussed car had (broken) heated seats and auto climate, it probably was loaded. The $2500 trade-in means that either the dealer haggles better, the car was in really bad shape, or/and it have much more than 90k miles on speedometer.

Regal was updated in 1999(?) or possibly 2000: water bottle was moved to different side, some changes with not supercharged engine, less chrome, etc. According to recent Consumer Reports, Regals are the most reliable used cars. It means that less problems were reported by CR subscribers who own Regals than by Camry or Accord owners. However, it is for 99 or 2000 and later years, not 97-98.

dan1 · June 2004

It was a 97 Regal GS and had 19k on it when we purchased it and was traded with 87K. These problems occured throughout the 5 or so years we had it. The oil was changed every 3k to 5k miles and while it was not in excellent condition (it wasn't when we bought it, carpet was stained and it had a minor dent on one door), it still looked nice. The water pump, seat heater, dash lights, driving light, broken center console doors, power window switch all happened in the first 2 to 3 years of ownership. Oh and I forgot the key would not come out of the ignition unless you pushed the release under the stearing column.

Yurakm if you really want to go by CR they also list about 10 GM products as worst picks. I personally don't hold to much faith in CR or JD Powers for that matter as the data gathering methods can be somewhat suspect. You can make statistics say whatever you want.
This car was not abused my wife drove it primarily as a family hauler.

Jpstax1 yes no car is going to be problem free but this car was rediculous! And as I said I drove 2 others one was a 2001 with similar problems.

Jack44 we didn't buy a Honda we bought an 03 Explorer. Do I think Fords are perfect no, but for me and a lot of my relatives and friends they have been the best of the domestics.

yurakm · June 2004

I feel with you!

Our car, a 98 Malibu, requires serious repairs about two times a year. Between the repairs it is fan to drive: very nimble, precise steering, holds our twisty hilly CT roads very well, and is tight as a drum. Great in city traffic and good on country roads. The only complain - it is bit underpowered on highways, especially when merging or when passing uphill.

However, the repairs are annoying. We had to replace transaxle at 47k, two different parts of A/C at about 55k+ and 65k+, alternator at about 65k, coolant tank fell apart at about 55k. A coolant leak developed from intake manifold soon after the original warranty expired. $500+ in labor to replace the gasket. Another gasket cost $200+. Water in rear right lamp. Several items were covered by the original warranty: speakers, sensor of closed door, resistor in fan switch, etc., etc.

However our second car, a 2000 Regal GS, is fine. Not impeccable, of course. There were two initial problems: a defective multifunction stalk switch in steering column and warped dash which rattled like mad. Dealer replaced the switch and, after some pressure and unsuccessful attempt to fix it, he replaced the whole dash. No single problem since.

Yes, we put only 35k miles on the car, but these are mostly city miles. The car was built 4.5 years ago, in November 99, and bought in October 2000. Enough time for problems to develop. It sat on a dealer lot for almost whole year, but we do not see bad consequences. It also withstood an accident without problems. The regal was rear-ended on highway; only muffler and bumper cover were replaced.

We bought the Regal new, while the Malibu was bought used, with 15k miles. With the experience, I would wary of slightly used cars: Often it is something wrong either with the vehicle, or with the previous owner, or with the both. Probably an abused car repossessed early, or the first owner dumped it, because was unhappy, or it was a lemon bay-back... I also would avoid new models for the first year or two.

Concerning CR. Their user surveys definitely are somewhat skewed. However, it is better to have imperfect information, than no information at all. By the way, the "soft" data always are not precise.

dan1 · June 2004

Yurakm all GM cars are probably not bad but I treat cars the same way I do other purchases, sell me something bad and it will be a long time if before I come back. When I research the purchase of a new vehicle I try and read as many owner reviews as possible and talk to as many people I can that actually own them. Before I bought the Explorer I asked complete strangers how they liked thiers. Believe me if any of the Fords I have owned gave me as much trouble as my Regal I would not have bought one.

I know several poeple in the autobody business and there is one general consensus when you start taking them apart GM's are not put together that well. The major parts are good but they are surrounded by cheapness.

I now have a 96 Ranger, a 2001 Mustang Bullitt GT and the 03 Explorer Limited in my garage. For better or worse at least none of them are leaking oil on the floor.

Jack44 · June 2004

Just checking the Explorer Section here on Edmunds...32 pages of discussion [lot's on problems]...

For us Regal owners, just 3 topics...

Make what you will with that...

bporter1 · June 2004

Has anyone had this problem? My father owns a 2000 Regal LS, and the other day he said that the blower fan all of a sudden went to high speed. He tried to shut it off but could not. He made it home and eventually the battery was drained. He called the dealer and they said it is a defective fan relay. The car has about 44K miles on it. Unfortunately my father did not get an extended warranty when he bought the car.

imidazol97 · June 2004

It's a bank of relays that are identical -- turn air compressor on and off if it's not a V5 model, turn on high speed blower. It's a $10 or less item. I replaced mine on a LeSabre 93. There's a power center under the hood with large fuses and several relays -- or relays may be grouped elsewhere on that model.

Don't need an extended warranty for that kind of item.

bporter1 · June 2004

Yes, I found the three relays under the hood. Where do you get the replacement relays? At the dealership? Are they easy to install? Thanks for the help.

imidazol97 · June 2004

I got mine from the Buick dealer. The service guys showed me how to remove the thing. On my service/relay panel under the hood... yours may be different... the relay h as a little flat metal prong under it. There is a ridge or catch sticking up under the relay to lock it into place.

To remove, they used a long knife blade to lift the flat metal prong sticking down from the relay so that the prong slipped forward over the ridge or catch. This allows the relay to come forward and out. When the new relay goes in the metal strip sticking down rides up and over the catch. But to get it off required knowledge of the "barb" effect holding the relay on. Try a steak knife to lift the metal prong.

imidazol97 · June 2004

You should be able to remove the snap on wire connector from the relay. That will stop the high speed fan connection. You should be able to operate the lower fan speeds (I think I am right on that point).

The other relays in the group may control the air conditioning compressor and the cooling fans at the radiator. You may be able to track the color coded wires to the connectors to find the one that goes to the heater blower. That would be your only way of telling which one is the blower control -- other than removing one at a time and seeing which one stops the blower -- battery would have to be charged for this to work of course.

If you identify the relay for the fan, you can switch for one of the other relays and verify the problem is the relay. These were a generic looking relay. The numbers on them will be the same as well as looking the same. They go bad occasionally from use.

dan1 · June 2004

How many Regals are sold compaired to Explorers? The Explorer is the number one selling vehicle in its class by a good margin. Make what you want with that...

Jack44 · June 2004

"How many Regals are sold compaired to Explorers? The Explorer is the number one selling vehicle in its class by a good margin. Make what you want with that..." by dan1

Let's see...Regal and Explorer in same class???...But they've sold more Camrys that Explorers...So There!!!

dan1 · June 2004

The point is that the explorer has outsold Buicks entire line let alone Regals in 2003 about 370,000 Explorers to 336,000 Buicks. So there are going to be more posts about them good and bad because more poeple buy them. The Explorer has been a best seller for years. The Regal is best at getting you on a first name basis with the service manager. But your right Jack the Regal is wounderful car thats why so many people buy them. Everyone else is wrong. You can fall asleep at night reading CR and be happy.

pat · June 2004

Okay folks, let's move on now.

Dan1 had a bad experience with his Regal and he's happier now. That's a good thing for him.

His bad experience with his Regal certainly does not mean all Regals are bad things - and using numbers of postings to judge reliability (or lack thereof) on any vehicle is nothing less than folly.

In any case, this is not a Regal vs. Explorer forum, so let's get back to our subject.

Dan1 - good luck. Glad you've solved your problem and sorry that your specific Regal was not a good thing for you. Let's respect the fact that not everyone will have or has had the same experience that you did.

Enjoy your Explorer!

bporter1 · June 2004

Thanks to everyone who contributed on the blower relay problem. My dad ended up getting the car fixed at one of the local dealers here in Central New Jersey. They diagnosed a bad blower motor resistor. All in all it cost my dad about
$120.00 that included everything. Anyway thanks again for all your help. These forums are really great.

tonyf2 · June 2004

Can some one help.
I have a 2001 Buick Regal ls with 36,000 miles. This problem started about a month ago. My brakes would pulsate every time I applied the brakes, more so at high speeds. I had the front rotors turned down at a local Auto parts store, the pulsating went away slightly. Today I changed the pads, there was no difference. I'm puzzled, does any one have any idea what the problem is.

imidazol97 · June 2004

The symptom described doesn't seem right for the circuit.

If the blower resister set blows, the fan won't work on lower speeds at all. The only time it would work is when on high speed, which is when the relay is operated to connect directly to battery power.

Is it an automatic temperature control system?

Jack44 · June 2004

You 'may' then have to replace the rotors...And yes they can go bad...

One thing that can warp rotors is washing your car after driving it hard...The cold water sprayed on the rotors will warp them...

Jack44 · June 2004

We'll be good...

tonyf2 · June 2004

I asked at the auto store that turned down the rotors if he was able to tell if the rotors were warped and he said yes but mine were not.
My next step is to get new rotors. Is it possible to tell if they are warped when they turn them down?

yurakm · June 2004

It happens, while rather seldom, that the rear brake rotor warps, resulting in the same pulsation of the brake pedal. I only read about it, but have no first hand experience.

BTW, I also started to feel the pulsation at brake pedal when driving on highway recently. 2000 Regal GS. The current mileage is something like 35k, + or - 1k. My wife, who usually drives the car, also noticed the pulsation. She thinks, though, that it happens only on some road surfaces. Even knows several places where she feel it. She hopes the rotors did not warp. I do not drive the car often, probably once a month or so, and am not 100% sure yet.

steprov · June 2004

We recently took my '00 GSE on a short vacation From Me. to Niagra Falls. The total distance was about 1350 miles. There were 4 adults and the car was fully loaded. I averaged 28.5 mpg (according to the computer) which was very impressive! The car rode smoothly & quietly and was a pleasure to drive. We had no problems at all. However, at a rest area, I noticed water (I think) running from underneath. The air conditioner had been running steadily. Is this normal or should I be concerned?

imidazol97 · June 2004

I replaced the calipers with a quality replacement (Pep Boys) and replaced the rotors with the higher cost Raybestos brand rotors. I'd recommend replacing the pins that the calipers slide on also. Don't forget to use pure silicon grease on the inside of the rubber grommets where the pins slide. That seems to gum up with dirt and grease and cause the calipers to not release completely sometimes causing the pads to rub the rotor, heating it up, and then causing pulsation. Had this on a 98 LeSabre at 40K for about 10K. Just replaced the whole thing and was done with problems.

Local radio talk show (real) mechanic recommends replacing rotors -- he doesn't waste time turning them. He has his own mechical and body repair shop in an upscale residential part of a city. He's been a mechanic since vocational school. I've learned he's usually right about what costs less trouble or less money in the end. Do it right -- one time. Replace everything.

Oh and don't press the pistons back in without opening the bleeder. You don't want to push the old fluid back through the antilock brake system. That can cause problems

bporter1 · June 2004

No the climate control is not the automatic one.
My father had the car fixed on Tuesday, and so far it has been fine. The description you gave was exactly the problem he was having with his car. I guess I did not explain it very well, sorry.

yurakm · June 2004

It is absolutely normal.

I always see a condensate from A/C in summer time under all kinds of cars. High air humidity, and cold parts. Do not need to drive 1350 miles; 5 to 7 miles is more than enough to see a plenty of the condensate in our places, Southern Connecticut. Regal is not different from other cars in this respect.

My wife and I have a 2000 Regal GS and 98 Malibu, and had a 1988 Taurus before. All of them produce puddles of waters from A/C. What car did you have before your GSE?

steprov · June 2004

Thanks for your response. It's reassuring to know that this is a "normal" problem. Before the Regal I had a '93 Caravan. Very versitile & reliable, but not much fun to drive. I also own a "90 LeBarron Convertable which I only use during the Summer on "top down days". My wife drives a '00 Mitsubishi Gallant. It's a nice car, but she'd rather drive the Regal...

yurakm · June 2004

The humidity at your places must be much lower than at ours. I opened your profile and found the town where you live, than looked where it is on mapquest. Naples Maine is far from ocean.

By the way, a couple of years ago we had a short vacation in White Mountains, NH. Criss-crossed the mountains in different directions, and drove around them. Were in Conway, NH, and crossed about 10 miles into Maine. Fryeburg, East Fryeburg - I remember the names. According to the map, it is very close from your home.

It was a pleasure to drive our Regal GS on the mountain roads. Looks like Impala LS is very popular around the White Mountains. We did not see many Regals, though.

gweilo · June 2004

I know the 3.8 has a good rep but does the SC decrease its lifespan/reliability?
any tips for most important Regal issues to look for when considering a used one? I'm talking about one with 90k miles

Jack44 · June 2004

It may have been driven harder...The SC if taken care of [changing the SC oil] should be fine...Check by the radiator overflow tank to see if there is excessive black deposits...That would indicate a bad blower belt...

The problem areas are transmission and some of the electronics, heater/AC control module...But if taken care of.....OK...

What year...From private party or dealer???

gweilo · June 2004

'99 on a Chevy dealer lot. Not GM certified but has limited 1 month warranty. $6500
I'm surprised about the transmission. some kind of ongoing problems? Seems like most GM trannies are pretty good. I have 192k on my '90 Cavalier...never an issue with the tranny.
interesting point about it possibly being driven harder. Does Carfax give demographics of previous owner? Otherwise, the car is immaculate. Kind of a l ot for a high miler but teh regal seems to have a good rep as well as the 3.8.

yurakm · June 2004

Some risk as unavoidable when buying used car. 90k miles is a good sign for year 99: probably most of them were highway miles.

GS and other supercharged cars by GM have a heavy duty engine. Not exactly the same as the 3800 in Regal LS, Impala LS, Grand Prix GT. Beefed up to match the supercharger. Stronger internal parts, bolts, etc. Not sure about the block itself.

I heard only good words concerning GM transmissions. Regal GS (and Grand Prix GTP) have a very good, beefed-up, heavy duty transmission, to match the engine. No ongoing problems with the tranny. Some complaints that it is not very reliable when racing with substantially modifying engine, after upgrading its power 300 hp or so. Hardly relevant to the average owner.

However, everything happens. Especially with used cars.

Do you know how often the previous owner serviced the transaxle?

GM recommends 100,000 miles between services for ideal conditions: highway, flat terrains, etc. 50,000 miles for "severe duty", like driving in hilly/mountain areas or in the stop-and-go city traffic. Personally, I changed the fluid after 33,000 miles or so. At first, dealer suggested to flush the transmission only, without replacing filter. However, when flushing mechanic saw dirty old fluid coming out, dropped the pan, and replaced the filter. So, 50k miles between the services looks too much for our car, driven mostly in city, in hilly Connecticut.

The general population of Regal owners looks very solid. At least in Connecticut. Judging by driving style, and by drivers look.

I doubt Carfax provides the data. However, you can ask your insurance company for insurance rates for GS and GP GTP, and compare them. I saw some insurance statistics: Buick beats Pontiac easily. Less accidents, less injuries, and way less theft. The two cars are basically the same under the skin. I believe, the difference is due to different population of owners.

gweilo · June 2004

I haven't even talked to a salesperson..just saw it on the lot. From what I hear, dealers often get used cars through auctions so there may be little knowledge. can you track a VIN back to registration?
Assuming it's a wise move, what would you ask an uninvolved mechanic to look for prior to purchase?

mrrogers · July 2004

My wife's 98 Regal LS has 98,000 miles, and the key is beginning to hang up in the ignition switch. Sometimes I have to go from neutral to park about three times and wiggle the key to remove it. The spare key is almost new, and it behaves the same way, so I don't think it is the key. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I dare spray WD40 into the switch? Is replacing the switch a do-it-yourself type job, or are there special tools involved where I will need to take it to the dealer?

Jack44 · July 2004

Some times this happens with a dying battery...E-mail me and I'll give you several other ideas...

pat · July 2004

Jack44, we'd welcome a post on your other ideas right here - that way all of our readers can benefit from your assistance.

mrrogers · July 2004

I have priced the ignition lock cylinder for my wife's 98 Regal LS. Part number is 26054914. The GM list price is $106.58. I got a quote from GM Parts Direct at $53.29 plus shipping. My ignition keys have the computer chip in them, and I would like to keep them. Does anyone know if I can take the keys and both the old and new ignition lock cylinders to a locksmith so he could make the new ignition lock cylinder work with the old keys?

imidazol97 · July 2004

The only way you keep your old ($28) passkey ignition key is if the new lock happens to have valleys that would each be deeper than the corresponding valley on the key you have now.

I went through this on my 93 Lesabre when the sensor wires to the resistor in the key started breaking.

Do you have a service manual about how to remove the steering wheel and disable the airbag and then diassemble the parts down to the cylinder? I recommend reading that FIRST before deciding if yo're going to do it yourself. I "believe" the cost for my replacement was $188.

Have you determined that the cylinder is the problem and not the rotating parts around it in the column nor the wire leading down to and including the switch for the ignition itself???

The ignition switch is above your brake pedal on top of the steering column. You could loosen it and remove the rod from it and try turning the key to see if the resistance is at the top of the column or in the switch at the bottom... Perhaps I've missed a message here where you've already explain your diagnosis. I'm just nervous about working anywhere around airbags in the cars.

fordhorror · July 2004

Hi,
I have a 96 Buick Regal. The car runs great, but past 4 months there is this Squeaking noise coming out of the hood. I have sprayed the belt dresser on the serpentine belt (The belt and the tensioner are new). The noise does not stop. Any idea..? Please help.
Thanks,

jpstax1 · July 2004

I would like to increase the horsepower and torque in my '98 GS when my extended warranty runs out next year. Just about everybody I've talked to said to change the S/C pulley to either 3.25" or 3.00". They also said to change the plugs to a high performance type, install a 180 degree thermostat, and have the computer tweaked. Which pulley size would you recommend? I don't want to put too much stress on the engine and tranny with too much S/C boost. Thanks.

mrrogers · July 2004

I am bringing the car in to my local dealer Friday. I will report the outcome.

Jack44 · July 2004

If you have no mods at this time...The smallest pulley would be a 3.4"...A 180* thermostat will help cool things down...And going one range colder a plug, like the AC Delco 41-932 is a good choice...There are new PCM's that can be purchased and also new Cold Air Intakes that you should install...Or just gut the innerds of your existing airbox...All that helps...and there are a lot of places that you can find information on upgrading...Our cars are pretty stong, so there's a lot to do to them before they break...

mrrogers · July 2004

I mentioned in several entries on this site that I am having trouble removing the key from the ignition in my wife's 98 Regal LS. I took the car to the dealer yesterday. The diagnosis is that I need a new switch located in front of the floor shifter. This switch keeps you from removing the key unless the car is in park. The service advisor told me they usually fail after a customer has spilled a drink out of one of the dual cupholders. I remember several years ago having an unopened can of orange soda in the left cupholder, and leaning over to get something out of the glove compartment while the car was parked. I must have leaned against the soda can too hard as I punctured a pinhole in the can and sent sticky soda everywhere. Besides the switch, I also need a new shifter. Total bill is $684. I will pick up the car Monday.

Jack44 · July 2004

With the hood open...where does the sound come from???...

Other thought...Water pump going out?...

Buick Regal

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