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Comments
I was wondering what your results were with the upgrades so far? Have you had your HP/TQ checked to see what actual increases you're having? Any tranny problems with the increased power that you can tell?
I have a 98 regal GS myself. However, I believe I have the very early signs of tranny issues (just from wear and tear). It's not shifting as cleanly between 2/3 and 3/4 as it once did. I've kept it serviced so unless they slipped some goose grease in there w/o me knowing it I suppose it's a natural decay. If I did any upgrades, it'd be AFTER a tranny redo, should my car and I keep up relations that long.
On a diff subject...Did anyone else read about GM's reworking of the injector scheme on the 3.6? They are talking that it could generate an addl 50 HP, making for slightly over 300 if the system they're currently testing works (no word on how it might affect torque). Now that they're shoe-horning 5.3L V-8's that make 303 HP into Grand Prix's and (soon) Impalas and Monte Carlo's, that should make for interesting marketing problems if they allow the full 50 HP gain across the product board (taking bets there...)
At these prices, probably, it does not make much sense to use cheaper oil. Risk is substantial, while payoff is minimal. However, some people use synthetic 5W-30. Not every oil that is called "synthetic", but really synthetic, like Mobil 1. They save $5 every 30,000 miles.
Run to your dealer and complain about the problem. He will add the oil for free, because you just bought the car and because it is certified. More important, this will leave a paper trail in case your SC fails. I understand that the certified car is covered by warranty? Dealer's or GM?
Personally, I would replace the oil. However, this is not standard procedure. To remove old oil, you need to use syringe or something of this kind. SC holds 2 bottles.
2. Series II 3.8 SC requires premium gas. Regular can be used in emergency, but it does not pay. Engine computer will sense knocks and will adjust advance angle accordingly. The engine will loses power and, to my understanding, consumes more gas.
I hope this help if you haven't figured it out by now.
Thanks
BigFred
and I had her towed over to the dealer. The mass air sensor was bad. Costed over $360 dollars to fix and I could of did it myself for a lot cheaper but I had no clue what was wrong. Now, I know the signs of a bad mass air sensor.
Well, lately I've had the LOW TIRE indicator on, I reset it, check the tire pressure and still comes on. Does this have to do with something wrong on the suspension?
Also, is there a noticeable difference between the concert sound II and the monsoon? Are the radios specs different? I know the speakers have to be different to be so expensive. I want to change my current system for a monsoon if there is a noticeable difference, or at least the speakers...any thoughts?
Thanx a lot!
Edna :P
Concert II have 6 speakers. Antenna is incorporated into rear window itself, in the glass or glued to the glass from inside, like heating wire.
We have two Regals in family, a 2004 with Monsoon, and a 2000 with Concert II. I would say that for my taste the sound is a bit better with the older car. With Monsoon it is a bit less rich. However, the cars have different head unit, and, probably, this is the reason of the difference. GM "decontent" final years car models.
Concerning tire indicator: are you sure that the pressure is even across all 4 tires, and that you reset the indicator? The reset button is in the fuse panel, under the small door on the passenger-side edge of dashboard.
In my experience, the indicator really helps when there is a slow leak in a tire. The indicator uses ABS sensors, and if indicator is wrong, it can be that there will be problem with ABS and traction control. However, ABS checks itself automatically every time when you start the car. This is why I guess that there is a problem with tire inflation, not with indicator.
Also thanks for the info on the Monsoon, I really wanted to know if there was a real difference, anyways the sound system in my car sounds really nice.
Recently, the car stopped running (while on the road). He had it towed to work. When he tried again, it started and ran for a day. Then it quit again.
Troubleshooting revealed that there was no spark. He replaced the crank sensor and ignition module, but this didn't fix the problem. He suspects that there might be a problem with the ignition key chip/computer, but he's not sure how to check this, and doesn't want to throw any more parts at the problem. He tried reading the trouble code using the "check engine" light, but no trouble codes flashed (perhaps he's not initiating the sequence properly - any help here?).
Two questions:
1. Does anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of problem?
2. If the key chip circuit fails, will it prevent the engine from cranking, or just from starting?
Any ideas/suggestions would be welcome.
Thank you.
Thanks for your help.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.intense-racing.com/
http://www.zzperformance.com/
Had trouble with 98 3800 in LeSabre. Read the service manual I bought to see how it works. When you restart a luke warm engine, it does a check to see if it can keep a vacuum for a certain length of time to show that there is no air leak in the tank system. It does not do the test on a cold start nor a hot start. Only when the water temp is between a couple of lukewarm temperatures. Sure enough, when I drove my car to get coffee, turned it off for a few minutes, then got back in, it did the test and the light went off. If you don't do a luke warm start, it may take a few days before it does the vacuum check.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Can anyone help me?
Seems the problem is back to that. Daughter and boyfriend picked up car and by time they got it home the fans weren't coming on again. He says he has one of those infrared thermometers and read 258 at the thermostat housing. Seems way high, but I don't know the calibration of his equipment either.
tsu670, "Buick Regal" #1289, 1 Aug 2001 8:37 pm
I bought a 99 Regal LS. it has 81,000 miles. I am wondering is it the time to replace the timing belt? or it has a timing chain instead of time belt?
Thanks a lot!
Body has some rust but nothing extreme. Interior is average with stains on carpet. My brother bought the car new and always had the oil changed, general maintenace done.
I will tell prospective buyers the truth, would never knowingly lie to someone. Is the car worth anything ? I am really out of my element here and would appreciate any thoughts you have on this subject.
Thanks!
Someone here might have some suggestions, but while you're waiting, I suggest you hop over to our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion and ask Terry (rroyce10). You need to pay close attention to the information required that is listed at the top of the post box.
Good luck!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Sharon
I'll use Jipster's time hint and go back to that month's messages and read through.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also, when driving on certain roads I start to get that "front Wheel Drive" hop sensation at certain speeds. had the tires balanced, but it still does it at times.
Any ideas? Could bushings be a factor? Engine mounts? Struts? I don't want to keep dumping money into it and only be guessing....
Another aspect is alignment. The rear wheels can be in specification but make a difference in how the car feels. Shifting would move the weight around and give one rear wheel more control over the other. How does it drive on roads where the trucks have made ruts due to their overweight? Does it still go fairly straight or does it seem to want to wander from one side of the rut to the other.
Put the rear alignment in the middle of the specifications again and see if that doesn't improve the drive.
At 54K if you've not replaced struts I'd recommend some good ones especially if you want it to drive right. Replacing struts means an alignment so you could kill two stones with one bird.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,