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Buick Regal

1596062646567

Comments

  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Did you notice a strange smell outside of the car, from possibly the coolant burning off ???

    Has anybody noticed this?
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    I've never noticed the smell of coolant in the 2 years I've owned my Regal.

    A recent two hour interstate trip yielded no signs of coolant leakage.
  • maijoshmaijosh Posts: 2
    I have a weird noise coming from the front end of my car also, it's not a rattle noise, it sounds like a the fan belt is worn, but it's not. I've taken the car to 3 auto shops but no one can tell me what the noise is. I was told to change the belt to a gator back belt; I got new belt but not the gator back belt. I was told to change the water pump, I changed that, I was to it was the pulley, I changed that, I was told to flush the engine and add heavy oil, I did that, I have spent about $650.00 and still can't get rid of that annoying noise. Someone, Please help me...: confuse:
  • ejm0808ejm0808 Posts: 1
    Thanks for that tip on the sealant tablets. I had asked Buick in Detroit about that, and they said, yes , a good idea to add them since they were part of the recall. I have had no problems with my 00 Regal, and will change fluid now at 75,000 mi.
  • jay100jay100 Posts: 3
    I just bought a 95 Buick Regal with the 3.8L non-turbocharged engine. I've looked and looked and can't find the PCV valve. Auto Zone looked it up on their 'puter and gave me a verbal description - it plugs into the intake manifold somewhere on the top passenger (serpentine belt) side of the engine. Still can't find it. Does anyone know where I can find a FREE repair manual with drawing showing me exactly where it is online? Can someone give me a better verbal description? Do I have to take something apart to get at it?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    Look for a little circular tube coming up from the intake manifold with a cap on it. It probably doesn't have electrical wires to it in that year model. I believe you push down and rotate the cap like a childproof medicine bottle cap.

    If I come across a picture I'll post it. It's at the end of the motor with the belt. It's on the back corner of the tubes that carry the air through the intake.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Please view message# 1289. Has step-by-step instructions for a '99. Hopefully your '95 isn't much different.
  • jay100jay100 Posts: 3
    Thanks & kudos to imidazol97 & tsu670. With yor help I found and replaced it. FYI - I had suspected it might be hiding in the little black tube and had even jiggled its cap a little to see if it would come off but was too chicken to try twisting hard without knowing it was the right thing.

    Some notes on the procedure:

    1. On my engine the cap dosen't have to be depressed to turn it counterclockwise about 1/8 turn and pull it off. There is, however, a spring inside, apparently holding the PCV valve down in its socket, that pushes up on the cap. So when the cap is replaced it has to be pushed down to comress the spring while turning clockwise.

    2. The black cap has, in the tiniest of raised letters that anyone will probably find obscured in dust & oil & are therefore useless, "PCV" in two places on its top. It does not have a presure sensor or wiring harness on it as mentioned in message #1289 for a '99 engine (mine's a '95)>

    3. I think message #1289 mentioned an O-ring on "said part" (the PCV valve). Ther is also a larger orange O-ring on the bottom of the cap not mentioned and the spring. I found both very loose so be careful... they may fall off.

    4. From top to bottom the assembly includes: black cap, large orange O-ring, spring, PCV valve with small O-ring on it.

    5. I had to use needle nosed pliers to get ahold of the top of the ole PCV Valve. Fingers are just too fat to get at it. The PCV valve with small O-ring has to be pushed with not too much force to get it to seat in its socket at the bottom of the black tube the cap sits on top of.

    5. At 175000 miles, the old PCV valve was in excellent condition and didn't need replacing - but I did anyway. Maybe the guy I bought the car from had it replaced sometime. Like tsu670, I did laugh a little but cursed some too. Tsu670 is right - the beer on the deck helped soothe the pain. I paid $2.99 for it at Auto Zone.
  • maijoshmaijosh Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2000 Regal LS, I am still looking for answers
  • jay100jay100 Posts: 3
    Anybody know where I can find a free repair manual online?
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I just recently had all 4 rotors replaced. They were all original to the car. The only thing that I replaced on the brake system before that was front pads. 115k is a lot of miles but I can't believe that I got that much out of them.
    I also had the brake pads replaced too. My car is a 99' GSE
  • nels1nels1 Posts: 25
    On the 2003 Regal. I'm getting a little knock or a thunk when I turn the wheel slightly. Dealer told me there was a service bullitin on it but no recall. A mechanic who worked for a GM dealer told me there was a recall. Anybody know for sure?
  • davtejdavtej Posts: 3
    just joined the forum and your message caught my eye. About six months ago I brought my 2002 regal gs in for 20,000 mile check up. They told me I had to replace both my fan belts and ever since I've had the same noise. It only happens when i cold start my car and lasts only about 5 minutes or so.

    the first time I brought the car back they told me I needed a new alternator, the second time they told me they couldn't hear the noise ( they didn't wait to cold start it) the third time, they sprayed something like wd40 on the fan belts and said sometimes it takes a while until they are broken in. The fourth time they told me its misalligned pulleys and tomorrow I bring it in for the fifth time. I'm going to tell them to just change these damn fan belts already.
  • davtejdavtej Posts: 3
    i have a 2002 supercharged regal gs. Does anyone know if a lower octane gas will be okay to use. The manual says only 92 octane, but where I live its approaching $3.65 a gallon and I'm looking to save a few pennies.

    thanks
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Sorry, but I think it best to assume the manual is correct. The engine management computer assumes you are using 92 octane. Anything less might cause timing problems.
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I agree with the above post, and you may do engine damage in the long run. The engine can run on a lower octane gas, but only in a pinch. If it was me, I would not chance it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    People have reported using only regular since they had the car new. The computer will adapt the timing to reduce predetonation if it occurs. If you drive more gently you'll probably never notice difference. If you drive aggressively you may notice a difference between the two gasolines because of the reducing timing advance under load.

    Try a couple of tanks of plus grade and then try regular. See which suits your driving style.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • thegmkidthegmkid Posts: 1
    nels1 dont let them tell you that because its not true i had the same thing on my 03 the dealership said they didnt know so i called buick and bitched and they fixed it the next day i recently bought a 2005 impala and the same thing but chevy fiked it no ? asked greg p.s good luck be strong and they will fix it its only bushings that are to hard.
  • tomodelltomodell Posts: 9
    I have a 2001 Buick Century and was thinking of putting in a new engine from a Regal. The Century has a whimpy 3.1 L. engine and I want the 3.8 that is installed in the Regal and many other G.M cars. I was thinking that the Regal would be the best source, since the Regal and the Century have the same body.
    The main thing I need to know is, will the 3.8 go directly onto my transmission? Other questions I have is, will the other stuff go on the new engine ok, (air conditioning, alternater, etc.) I would be getting the 3.8 from a salvage yard, and I will require that it has the complete fuel injections system. If necessary, I can ask for an engine with the air conditioner, alternator, etc.
    Any advice would be welcome.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    Wouldn't it be easier, if it can be done, to just buy a Regal instead?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tomodelltomodell Posts: 9
    Yes it would have been easier to have purchased a Regal. But I wanted to have a bench seat (shifter on column) and that wasn't available in the Regal. And now the 3.1 is having some mechanical problems, and I was thinking about putting in the engine I really wanted rather than repairing the old one.
  • petrohdpetrohd Posts: 1
    :D Question....my mom lost her keys to her 2003 Buick Regal...I know of a local place that can make keys for it (not the dealership) but they need the key code....is there anywhere in the car I can find it? I did find in the trunk a sticker with several parts numbers on it and at the top there are three letters followed by a number, 2 letters, and two numbers. Might this be the key code? Thanks! :)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    VIN number and contact the selling dealer. A local dealer might cut a key with ID to show you own the car.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • lkohnlkohn Posts: 13
    Within the past 3 months I have had the ignition switch and mass airflow sensor replaced on my ’99 Regal GS. The car only has 55,239 miles on it so I am surprised about the problems I have encountered. Is it time to start looking for a new car or can I get a few more years out of it without having to pay for (more) major repairs?
  • spdycindyspdycindy Posts: 4
    I bought my 2000 Buick Regal GSE about a year and a half ago, I like it because it has the convenience of a four door sedan but plenty of power for the aggressive driving style of the Northeast. I've got two problems with it though, I seem to keep losing brake fluid, constantly, to the point that the brake light and the traction control light come on, an inspection under the car shows that it seems to be coming from a "pressure valve" under the car. No-one I've talked to knows the name of this part? I'd prefer to purchase it from my local auto parts store if it is available, rather than encounter the dealers around here (I've had some pretty grim experiences with them.) Additionally, my fan doesn't work any longer for climate control, I was told that the relays are under the rear seat on the driver's side, is this true? The car sat at the dealership for over a year, I wonder if this isn't part of the problem, or if I just got a "bad" one. Thanks for any and all answers, this is my first Buick. :confuse:
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Had to replace the mass airflow sensor at the dealership today to the tune of $392. Experienced engine surge and some cutting out while vehicle in gear as well as in neutral. RPM's while in neutral would go from baseline (700) to around 1100...then bounce back down to around 500, sometimes with engine shutting off.

    They also said the fuel pump had low pressure (38-40)and that it should be around (48-50). Can one make any reasonable assumptions on how much longer my fuel pump may last with lower than average pressure? Dealership quoted me a price of $550...so for now I'm just keeping an eye on it.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Sorry to hear of the mass airflow sensor problem. Before replacing the fuel pump, I wonder if it might be worthwhile replacing the fuel filter first. It can be a job getting the old one off since the nuts get rusty, so be sure to allow penetrating oil to loosen things up for a good day before attempting the job.

    Oddly enough, I've read that the fuel filter offered by Fram is better than the one sold by NAPA (usually it is the other way around).
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Thanks for the tip on the fuel filter. I've been meaning to replace it.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    At idle when I turn on the A/C I hear a rattling type of noise. I'm thinking A/C pulley ???

    Any thoughts ? It goes away by increasing the RPM just a tad.

    Does this need to be replaced, tightened, etc... I'm trying to avoid a costly trip to repair shop. Any thoughts are appreciated. A/C works fine by the way.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    Does the AC cool okay?

    Use a long piece of wood to touch the various parts and hold the end near your ear to see what part rattles. Be careful of the moving belts and pulleys. Since it only happens with AC on it could be related to the compressor but also could be due to added load on the belt that something else is vibrating under different forces.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Yes, AC cools. It is almost like a grinding type sound that is not constant but like a grrrr grrr grrr. If it tap the gas just a bit to increase RPM it goes away. Also only seems to be there with the engine cold, like first thing in the morning ???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,884
    That description sounds like something one has to hear to try to decide what kinds of things could be causing the sound. Could it be hoses touching something like the firewall that transmit the engine vibration to the body and you hear it more. Cold hoses are stiffer and change shape slightly compared to hot, softer hoses.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • dashaundashaun Posts: 1
    I have been having a problem with my low coolant light coming on in my 2000 Regal LS. The proper amount of coolant is in both the radiator and the reserve tank. The light will go off after the car has been driven, but it will come back on. Has anyone out there has had this problem before? If so, please advise.
  • bisanbisan Posts: 9
    I am looking for a used car and found a 2000 Buick Regal LS for sale by a private party.

    The car has 98,800 miles on it and the asking price is $4200. The car looks very clean.

    The owner says the front brakes need to be replaced. I think it is just the pads, not the rotors.

    I did a carfax search and found the car was originally owned by a rental company for the first 25,000 miles. The current owner has had the car ever since.

    You should be able to see the carfax history report by clicking the following link.

    carfax report
    Any comments on how many more miles I might be able to get out of this car? Any mechanical problems I should check for in particular?

    Thanks in advance.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    The 3.8 liter engine in the Regal is one of GM's best, and has been around for a number of years. The transmission also extremely reliable. So, I'd say at least 50k more miles if maintained halfway reasonably.

    Mechanical problems: upper and lower intake, valve cover gasket, temp control display(optional). Check all power windows as well. Also, check your dexcool/radiator as some have posted it doesn't seem to protect as long as advertised. I've had my 99' Regal LS for a little over 2 years and have been very happy with it. Good luck.
  • cornycorny Posts: 1
    Did you get any answers as I have the same problem, compresser shot and can't afford a new one. What size belt do I need ? Thanks.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Take off the oil cap and look underneath. If you see any sludge, then odds are the car wasn't maintained properly (i.e. oil changes not performed at the correct intervals). I wouldn't be concerned of the brakes. If you need new rotors, so be it. Chances are if they are OEM, after 98,000 miles it's time for fresh rotors.

    The engine block has a great reputation for reliability. But confirm there are no fluid leaks - especially from any gaskets. A gasket may cost only a few dollars to replace, but you can count on hours of labor to make the replacement.

    Lastly, GM's version of coolant (Dex-o-Cool???) is known to cause blockage if not flushed before its recommended 5 yr/150,000 change. When I owned a Regal GS, I flushed and filled the radiatior after 3 yrs/37K miles. Per the mechanical at the time, he said it was a good thing I did. He showned me noticeable sludge/sediments in two hoses I was having replaced at the same time. I could only imagine how the radiator looked if there was some sludge in the hoses.
  • bisanbisan Posts: 9
    Thanks for the posts jipster and Bushwack.

    I will be sure to note the items you mentioned should I go forward with an inspection on the car.
  • spdycindyspdycindy Posts: 4
    My 2000 Buick Regal GSE has about 65,000 miles on it, a friend suggested that since I've been faithful about changing the oil every 3k miles, that I should also change the supercharger oil? My service book has no suggestions as to how this should be done, any suggestions? Thanks!
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    Here is what I do to change some of the fluid. I use a turkey baster. Make sure it has a small opening so it can fit in the hole of the supercharger. You will need an allen wrench set to get the cap off. The old fluid has a very pungent odor, so be aware. The fluid is available at most GM dealers, but I do not know how much it costs. I check mine about every six months and end up removing some of the fluid. The owners manual that I have does say to check it every 36K miles, and add if necessary. It says nothing about changing it. Oh one more thing, the supercharger is full of fluid when the oil is at the bottom of the threads for the cap. DO NOT DO THIS ON A HOT ENGINE, make sure it is cold.
  • spdycindyspdycindy Posts: 4
    Thanks so much, I'm going to give it a try.
  • I just had my oil changed on my 1996 Buick Regal, and now the oil light has come on. The one that's red when it lights up and looks like a dripping oil canister? Any suggestions what's causing this? Thanks.

    [email protected] :sick:
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    If the light stays on you need to get it checked out by mechanic asap. Per owners manual, "This(light)indicates that oil is not going through your engine quickly enough to keep it lubricated."

    Of course the first thing to do is check your oil level. I've read of instances where oil change techs have forgotten to tighten the drain plug, as well as install new oil after draining out the old.
  • jjwwjjww Posts: 2
    I bought a 99' Regal LS (96k miles)today for $3600. The mechanic told me there was minor oil plan gasket leakage. The part costs $50 and labor is $375. ($425 in total). Is the price reasonable? Shall I have it fixed right now? It is my first car and I have no idea about the oil plan gasket.

    Thanks in advace!
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    One would think all one needs to do is remove the dozen or so bolts holding up the oil pan and install a new gasket, right? But I checked my Haynes manual and, no, there appears to be much more to the job.

    It calls for the removal of something called the driveplate inspection cover and starter, if necessary, to disconnect the electrical connector from the oil level sensor; and to disconnect the engine torque strut; and to disconnect the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter from the engine; and to disconnect the pipes leading to the oil cooler; well, there's more, but do I need to go on?

    So, yeah, looks like the labor charge is reasonable. As far as getting it fixed right now, well, I guess that depends on how often you need to add oil (keep a log).
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I have not experienced that one (yet), but my driver info center is going dim. I already do not have a climate control display. I do not think it is a bulb, because the odometer is a digital diplay. Good luck, and keep us posted in what you find.
  • jjwwjjww Posts: 2
    Thank you so much!
  • markdel23markdel23 Posts: 1
    I had a 2001 Regal (3800 V6) that would stall right after you started it. I changed the fuel pressure regulator and that fixed it.
  • I recently purchased a new set of the steering wheel radio controls for my 99 regal, the old ones came offwit out a fight. but now i cant get the new ones on, the wires they conect to inside the wheel are too short and wont come out. I have tried to use needle nose pliers but no luck on getting the new controls connected. does anyone have any tips or tricks on connecting them? PLEASE HELP! its driving me crazy trying to connect them>
  • Has anyone had experience with getting their keyless remote sending unit replaced in their cars? Mine was on the decline for a year+, going from being able to trigger it at 30-40 feet to having to put it up against the car window to (a couple of weeks ago) not working anymore. Can't complain...it lasted 150,000 miles before dying.

    I'd had the keyfob itself (the only one I had with the car) checked and reprogrammed by a friend at a local GM dealership and it was ok. I was told then that replacing the unit if/when that became necessary would run nearly $400 for both the unit and new key fob + programming.

    Is there a cheaper way around this repair? Is it something done just as well in a cheaper shop or is removing this unit somehow (thanks to evil GM engineers) as tied in to the car's system as our brain is to ours?
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