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"I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go."
Seriously, I removed the front licence plate and frame from my Aurora about 18 months ago. I carry it in the trunk and hope I am successful in any conversation I may have with a gendarme.
There are four mounting screws. Two go into the bumper fascia at the recess. The other two go into the dark gray "ground effects" panel; I don't know what else to call it. Because my Aurora is black, the holes are not very noticeable. I'd like to find some small rubber or plastic plugs to fill in the holes. I cannot fill them in permanently as my state has required inspections, and I will need to mount the front licence plate to pass.
miles, purchased new. Replaced water pump and
headlight module (lights flickering on/off). Still
have original battery. Any knowledge of battery
life span by any reader?
Do any of you know what it is? There were several posts awhile back about illuminating the center deck-lid panel. When I saw this thing, I immediately assumed it might be for illumination. But with there being only one and not centrally mounted, it doesn't seem likely.
I, too, have been wondering about my original battery. My Aurora is a 1997, so the battery is almost five years old. My experience with batteries, over almost 40 years of driving, is that five years is close to an upper limit on longevity. But I have never owned a car with its battery under the rear seat -- a very benign environment.
I haven't decided if I should replace the battery based on past experience, or just wait for it to fail. Also, are there any replacement batteries available other than AC Delco?
Wierd, this is the only car I have had to worry about gas in...
I have taken some photos of my Aurora that I'd like to email to you. I will scan them when I get them back from the processor (no digital for me yet). What file type(s) and file size can you use? If this info is already available on your web site, I apologize for not finding it.
On another note, I heard a rumor that the Aurora's 4.0 will be an option on the 2002 Intrigue. Can anyone confirm this?
Anyone know how to remove and replace the Radio, heard it is pretty simple but don't know what to take apart first.
Had my front plate bracket removed by the dealer, they put two plastic plugs in, wrong color, but at least they put them in, perhaps a gm parts department can find them.
Have to say, I haven't looked forward to driving a car like I do the 95 since the days of my Porsche 911 and my 69 Vette. (pre wife and kids) Jonesing to get home just to drive the 95 home from the airport, too bad it spends more time parked than it does on the road.
Oh, but Hotmail has a size limit. Send me an email at zinc_o@hotmail.com and I'll give you another email address for sending files.
When I remove the unit I first take out the center air vent (oval vent left of glove box) by gently prying it out with a flat screwdriver. You can access the right side snaps for the molding around the CD/Radio once it's out. I've always had to just 'work' the left side snaps loose as I haven't been able to get to them (be warned: the plastic snaps can break easily) . After that's off there are a couple of screws mounting the unit. When you remove those and pull the unit out a little you can get to the connectors and you're done.
Hey Neo!- Welcome back Matrixfrog. I take it from the resumption of your regular postings that you are back from summer vacation.
Silotwo - the continuation: You know You Are Obsessed with your car when . . . You post a message that reads you are
"Jonesing to get home just to drive
the 95 home from the airport".
Was quoted $150.00 over a year ago. Your normal
parts store do not have those batteries in stock.
Also, they have a unique shape. Since I have a 1996 Aurora, I frequently check the DIC regarding
voltage info. Vehicle has original battery. My
concern is instant failure in the land of no where because of the battery longevity. Purchased vehicle new in August 1996.
The weird thing is that my wife doesn't feel it. I think it is mostly trasmitted via the pedal. Most of time when I am at speed, I have the car on cruise, so maybe I just don't notice but its still there.
Is it worth to spent 28K (incl. finance charges) on a 2001 model with 5K miles?
Thanks, Stefan
that's just my honest opinion, i hope this saves someone from getting stuck somewhere, and of course it would happen at the most inconvenient time and place.
I always knew that I would buy a new car in the Fall. I am now convinced that I should buy an Aurora. The members of this board seem to have expert advice. Can someone tell me things to look for when buying a 1996 or 1997 Aurora. I am closely examining a low-mileage '96 (about 47k miles, $11k). What are the common problems? What are the common service issues? Any defects for these years? Is the money amount good (I imagine that Olds cars are selling for pretty low prices these days)? THANKS IN ADVANCE.
from owners. The price on the 1996 is realistic based on the low miles. Wholesale is around
8K because of new Aurora body change. If the 96
is at a dealership, ask that the service department to run the VIN number regarding service.
They have the capabilities to give you a computer
readout (titled HISTORY LISTING) which entails
every service job peformed including oil/filter
changes. If purchase is from a private owner inquire what dealersip serviced vehicle and ask
seller to obtain info for you. It seems the 1996
Aurora owners on this site are pleased with there
vehicle. Inquire if there is any remaining warranty which can be transferred to you. My opinion is that your considering a good vehicle.
TRY TO GET SOME TYPE WARRANTY!!!!
When I bought my '97 in September 1999, I started out looking at '95s and '96s In researching the differences among model years, I came up with the following from articles published on the web:
Changes from 1995 to 1996: removed backlight distortion (at least one discussion member has stated that the '95's distortion isn't all that bad). Added DRLs, panic button to keyless entry, seats and mirrors move to preset position when doors are unlocked using keyless remote, programmable door locks, perimeter lighting activated when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, and recirculation mode for a/c.
Changes from 1996 to 1997: Added parallel park assist (right mirror dips when in reverse), compass to rear-view mirror, 3-channel garage-door opener. Changed: front rotors increased from 275 to 278 millimeters, FE3 sport suspension (different front springs, struts, and stabilizer bar; rear suspension pieces did not change), improved operation of the outside door handles, and end-release seat-belt buckles.
Changes from 1997 to 1998: second-generation air bags.
Whether any of these differences are significant enough to base a purchase decision is up to you. I did start looking at '97s (and eventually bought) because of the "improved" brakes and FE3 suspension. In retrospect I don't know how much of a real improvement, if any, there is. It's sure not my father's FE3! But then I am a former 4-4-2 owner, and my standards for handling are high. Perhaps other members could share their experience.
Even though I have listed the diffences among model years, I believe more important factors are condition, miles, price, and, as worldii2 pointed out, a good warranty. I've been pretty lucky with my '97 so far, but some owners have had significant, expensive problems.
Good luck!
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Sedans.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
I have left my mark on the Owners Club.
I think it only fitting that I was the first one. (Zinc1 you know what i mean).
My nominations would be:
Zinc1 's - Whisper Sweat Nothings Posting.
Zinc1's story of hitting 149mph
(as told by Henri)
I'm still on the original battery as well with a 96. Keeping them out of the underhood heat must make them last longer.
Eric
You'll need to email Karen to ask for new discussions to be added to the Club - karen@edmunds.com - she'll take care of it.
Have fun!
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
blk97aurora - Great info on the model-year changes. I have a 96 with the 3-channel garage door opener though. I think that was a 95 1/2 to 96 change. I've gone through one set of rotors in two years and they're beginning to shudder so I'll be having them checked again this weekend. I wonder if it's possible to just get the newer rotors.
I have had my car for 3 weeks now and I love it. Though the suspension is a little softer (less sporty) than I would have liked, so the FE3 option might be a good idea -- I'm going to have to see if those parts can be retrofitted to a '95 unless someone has some good aftermarket suggestions. (hint, hint!)
I would strongly recommend a warrantee and see if you can push them to do a FULL tune-up. (Yes, it's not supposed to need one 'till 100K miles, but several people here have noted various tune-up related problems before then. (Including myself in regards to the "surging" topic -- see my next post.)
Anyway good luck -- these are fantastic cars -- and that's coming from someone who's always been a "Ford guy!"
JC
I want to thank everyone for their input on the "surging" topic I started last week. You've all been very helpful.
In my last post I said I would tell you what the dealer said after they had the car today. The problem seems to be fixed. They managed to reproduce the surging/bucking problems. The following is the text right off of the repair invoice:
--> "Confirmed customers concern of the vehicle bucking on acceleration. Inspected and found ignition skip and engine surge. Inspected and found burnt ignition wires. Removed and replaced wires and inspected operation. OK now."<--
On the drive home, I could not make the car surge or buck, so it appears to be fixed. It was a simple fix and something that I certainly would have tried myself if the car hadn't still been under the 30 day warrantee.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions, I hope that this thread was helpful to others also.
(Darren13 -- this is why I suggested that you try to get the dealer to perform a full tune-up as a condition of sale, it seems rather common for this stuff to crop up by 50-60K miles.)
JC
Anyway, two years later, and with one more family driver, it was time for a new car. I'm 52, and I figured, if not now, when? So, after almost 30 years of mid-size, mid-price sedans and minivans, I started shopping for a car just for me.
Personal finances limited me to the "entry level luxury" cars. I drove the V6 and V8 Lincoln LS and the Aurora. Since I still have a 17 year old son in the house, I decided that I didn't ever want him in either of the V8s. Too much engine for a 17-year old, IMNSHO. (Probably too much engine for a juvenile 52-year old, too.) I liked the Aurora a little better. Tomorrow I'm taking the car into the shop for the first scheduled oil change, tire rotation, etc.
The only complaint so far is an occasional short moan from the power steering unit on slow speed turns or dry turns. Also, not a complaint, but I'm used to being able to tell when the ac recirculation mode is active - - I can't tell if this one is operating or not because there's no increase in noise from the vents when I push the button, and the outside exhaust odors from other cars still come in, it seems. I'm extremely pleased with the car.
The V6 has been enough for me in every road situation so far encountered up through 8000 miles, including climbing mild mountain grades in western North Carolina at 70+ mph. The car still feels tight, and quiet, as you would expect with only 8000 miles.
Has anyone had this problem?? My 95' aurora starts fine 1st time in the morning.Then when i start it the 2nd time usually 4 to 8 hours later,it cranks excessivley (6 seconds approx.)before starting.Now she is starting to stall on me at low idel(stop and go traffic,dunkin donuts drive thru etc.)When going down the highway she runs fantastic.I am a former mechanic but i am afraid this car is beyond my knowledge.This is the 1st problem i've had with this car since i've owned it and would appreciate any help. THANKS
I just discovered I made a mistake on the rotor diameters I quoted. The 275mm is diameter of front (vented) rotors for 1997; 278mm is diameter of rear (solid) rotors for same year. I will find the diameter of the earlier front rotors and post it. As for using the larger rotors on earlier Auroras, I'll check the parts microfiche; may take a few days. My guess is that the pads and calipers (at least) are different also.
FYI I noticed my car uses some oil. It's less than a quart/1000, but I really did not like it. The Mobil 1 burns off way less. About 1/4 quart/1000 miles. I love that stuff. I'll be doing my own changes now. I'll save a mint and avoid a nervous breakdown from the goobers messin' up the interior and doing stupid things to my car under the hood.
It's under warranty, so I put the stock air box back with a paper filter so that there is no possibility of questions. All I can say is I really think there is a big difference with my opened up box with a K&N. The biggest difference is when punching it at 40, or 50. Every time I switch back to stock, I notice the difference. I'll be switching back to stock for long road trips in the rain - just to be safe. I can't wait for the cat-back system. That plus the better box should really make it haul.
BLK97 - call wheel to wheel. They made a "scoop" for their project deville that scooped air from inside the fender and channeled it into the box. They said they would call me back about getting one for my Aurora, but they never did. I'll have to call. I'll bet the Caddy and the Aurora air box arrangement is the same. Air does flow through there and enters around the headlight. I can't imagine there would be much velocity to take advantage of though. Also, water does fly through inside the fender, and the scoop may catch more of the water. Just a thought.
The dealer confirmed that all the new Auroras have the 3.71 transaxle. I find it hard to believe that the original Aurora was best listed here at Edmunds at 8.1 for the 0 to 60 (I'm assuming that is for the 3.48) and the new 4.0's, which are about 160 lbs lighter with the 3.71 are only 7.8. Someone on the Marauder board said they saw the new 4.0's listed at 7.5 somewhere. I swear the 0 to 60 stuff is really weird. Who to believe?? BLK97 - thanks again for all your documentation on the acceleration.
I 'll always like the original best, but you know, those new Auroras are getting to me too.
I have changed the temp sensor under the driver dash, but no change. Not sure what to do next except send it to the shop.
Any suggestions?
You know, you are right, and you are wrong.
A Rocket 350 is a lot of engine, but a lot of fun. But thats another story.
When i first got my license my dad had a 97 Aurora (Im 19). I got my first speeding ticket in that car. How fast you ask? 95mph in a 40mph zone. At least the cop didnt write that on the ticket.
My first night out with that car, i went past 70mph a couple times on residential streets.
It is cases like the above where it is too much engine.
It is not too much engine when you can pass Gramps driving 30mph in a Crown Vic on a two lane road in 1 second flat.
You live and you learn. I learned from my father's Aurora that driving that fast can get you in trouble.
Now I own a 1987 Monte Carlo SS Aerocoupe. I do not beat on this car. I think i have floored it maybe twice.
My mother drives an 88 Eldorado with a 4.5 V8. I beat on it once in a while.
My point is, when he gets his first speeding ticket, he will learn what "too much engine" is.
$100
(You have to use the recommended battery, because of the drain lines located on top of battery)
O'Reilly Auto Parts carries the battery, though they do have to order it
I believe the DIC voltage is the alternator - my battery died, and my DIC read 12 - 14.3.
Good luck