Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Oldsmobile Aurora

12627293132112

Comments

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    To the tune of one of the songs from "Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs"

    "I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go."

    Seriously, I removed the front licence plate and frame from my Aurora about 18 months ago. I carry it in the trunk and hope I am successful in any conversation I may have with a gendarme.

    There are four mounting screws. Two go into the bumper fascia at the recess. The other two go into the dark gray "ground effects" panel; I don't know what else to call it. Because my Aurora is black, the holes are not very noticeable. I'd like to find some small rubber or plastic plugs to fill in the holes. I cannot fill them in permanently as my state has required inspections, and I will need to mount the front licence plate to pass.
  • worldii2worldii2 Member Posts: 27
    I have the pleasure of having my 1996 registered under AURORAN. The special plate AURORA was already issued in my state. On the front I have an AURORA gold letter plate with the Oldsmobile insigna to match my gold package. Have 68,000
    miles, purchased new. Replaced water pump and
    headlight module (lights flickering on/off). Still
    have original battery. Any knowledge of battery
    life span by any reader?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    My 1997 Aurora has two 1.5-inch-diameter plastic plugs on either side of its rear deck lid. By removing the one on the driver's side and peering inside, I see something that looks similar to a lamp socket with two black wires coming out of it; it is located about eight inches from the left edge of the deck lid. I cannot find this component in the factory service manual nor parts microfiche.

    Do any of you know what it is? There were several posts awhile back about illuminating the center deck-lid panel. When I saw this thing, I immediately assumed it might be for illumination. But with there being only one and not centrally mounted, it doesn't seem likely.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    worldii2,

    I, too, have been wondering about my original battery. My Aurora is a 1997, so the battery is almost five years old. My experience with batteries, over almost 40 years of driving, is that five years is close to an upper limit on longevity. But I have never owned a car with its battery under the rear seat -- a very benign environment.

    I haven't decided if I should replace the battery based on past experience, or just wait for it to fail. Also, are there any replacement batteries available other than AC Delco?
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    I would be curious to hear what comes of this. My 98 seems to do this a little. It's between 2000 and 3000 RPMs while accelerating. Can't tell if it's the tranny slipping or engine dropping out. Anyone else had this?
  • wingnut396wingnut396 Member Posts: 50
    I seem to have this problem when I desperately need gas and end up stopping at a Circle K or other discount gas outlet. After I put some quaility Chevron/Exxon/Texaco gas in it, it clears up.

    Wierd, this is the only car I have had to worry about gas in...
  • wingnut396wingnut396 Member Posts: 50
    Just talked to an associate of mine over in the Houston area. He is a big Fiero fan. A friend of his is trying to sell a streched Fiero with caddy northstar in it. He was prepping it for a Ferrari rebody. Imagine what fun it would be to drive a little car like that with something much better than the little 4 bangers they normally came with.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    My 98 also has this problem. Seems like a lot of people have this problem. (Where's the recall?) I have not replaced anything cause I have a feeling if I do I will be stuck in the same boat as the rest who have replaced everything it could be but it still is surging. Has anyone taken theres to the shop and hooked it up to a computer? Seems like that would be able to pin point the problem. Anyways my car started doing this a month after I had it. Just recently it started running perfect for a period of a week but then it returned to it's old self. If it were any other car you would probably be able to notice it a lot more. Theres my 2 cents.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    zinc1,

    I have taken some photos of my Aurora that I'd like to email to you. I will scan them when I get them back from the processor (no digital for me yet). What file type(s) and file size can you use? If this info is already available on your web site, I apologize for not finding it.
  • jimr97jimr97 Member Posts: 13
    My 97 has a single CD player in the dash as well as a changer in the trunk. The changer works fine, but when I put a CD in the in-dash unit it takes the CD in, thinks about it for about 5 seconds, then ejects it and displays E22. Anyone know what this error is?

    On another note, I heard a rumor that the Aurora's 4.0 will be an option on the 2002 Intrigue. Can anyone confirm this?
  • silotwosilotwo Member Posts: 27
    Thanks to all who responded. Learned that the E23 error code means "internal vehichle/radio communication problem". Of course, once I found a shop that can repair these, as soon as the tech started the car everything worked fine. Need to wait until I get the code again for them to diagnose it. Also learned that units for the 00/01 model year are a direct fit, cost $ 510.00 factory new.

    Anyone know how to remove and replace the Radio, heard it is pretty simple but don't know what to take apart first.

    Had my front plate bracket removed by the dealer, they put two plastic plugs in, wrong color, but at least they put them in, perhaps a gm parts department can find them.

    Have to say, I haven't looked forward to driving a car like I do the 95 since the days of my Porsche 911 and my 69 Vette. (pre wife and kids) Jonesing to get home just to drive the 95 home from the airport, too bad it spends more time parked than it does on the road.
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    blk97aurora - I can deal with any format you send, I wouldn't suggest GIF files though, as they're 256 colors and look pretty bad. I convert everything to JPG, resizing and slightly enhancing them when necessary. Send as many images as you like - those black Auroras are nice :)

    Oh, but Hotmail has a size limit. Send me an email at zinc_o@hotmail.com and I'll give you another email address for sending files.
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    silotwo - I only get the E23 error when I put a homemade CD in. And then it takes a few tracks before it seems to lose its place.

    When I remove the unit I first take out the center air vent (oval vent left of glove box) by gently prying it out with a flat screwdriver. You can access the right side snaps for the molding around the CD/Radio once it's out. I've always had to just 'work' the left side snaps loose as I haven't been able to get to them (be warned: the plastic snaps can break easily) . After that's off there are a couple of screws mounting the unit. When you remove those and pull the unit out a little you can get to the connectors and you're done.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    With all this talk about the original battery, I was wondering about my 95's as I have only had the car coming up on a year and have a feeling it is original. Since this was mentioned, the car has seemed to start a little slower the last couple of times and my wife told me tonight that it started slow and the DIC said low battery-something.4 volts! I will price a new Delco through my wholesale buddy at the dealer tomorrow.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    All my repairs were done at the dealer (Buick-Pontiac though) They did give it to the Olds/Caddy dealer for this problem early on and they gave the common "plugs and wires" answer without really checking it. Apparently this is a common Northstar problem and is visible by carbon tracking on the plugs. There is an updated plug for these engines now. Of course this did not fix my problem, went to the Caddy/Olds dealer myself and took a ride with their 25 year vet tune-up tech who couldn't notice the surge and later said that everything is performing within specs on the Tech scanner. All these guys need to do is isolate it to either timing/electrical, or fuel related through the use of a gauge on the fuel line or monitor the O2 sensor, or throttle position sensor,or fuel-air mixture, or the timing, at the time of surge---one of these is fluctuating!!
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My royal subjects:

    Hey Neo!- Welcome back Matrixfrog. I take it from the resumption of your regular postings that you are back from summer vacation.

    Silotwo - the continuation: You know You Are Obsessed with your car when . . . You post a message that reads you are

    "Jonesing to get home just to drive
    the 95 home from the airport".
  • worldii2worldii2 Member Posts: 27
    I am curious on the cost of a battery for Aurora.
    Was quoted $150.00 over a year ago. Your normal
    parts store do not have those batteries in stock.
    Also, they have a unique shape. Since I have a 1996 Aurora, I frequently check the DIC regarding
    voltage info. Vehicle has original battery. My
    concern is instant failure in the land of no where because of the battery longevity. Purchased vehicle new in August 1996.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    So is it the general consensus that this is due to bad gas? Car being picky about gas? 98 only problem? Just curious to see what all peaople have tried to get rid of this. Mine hadn't done it until recently.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    My 98 Aurora doesn't surge (or I haven't noticed). I've had it 3 years now. I did have trouble starting it for a while when the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I made a quick trip earlier this week and it cruised at just under 80 the whole way. (25.5 mpg going and 27.5 back: head and tail wind difference) I use pure gasoline (not alcohol) and we don't have smog here.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Are you running in power mode? I'm not sure what you mean by surging. On this trip I just took, the engine was ticking over at 2400 RPM's with the torque converter locked - mile after mile. Except when passing. (3000 = just under 100 by the way)
  • wingnut396wingnut396 Member Posts: 50
    Mine only seems to surge when I use cheap gas and when traveling at constant sub-highway speeds. In the 45-55mph range. Using the good stuff seems to cure it for me. :0)

    The weird thing is that my wife doesn't feel it. I think it is mostly trasmitted via the pedal. Most of time when I am at speed, I have the car on cruise, so maybe I just don't notice but its still there.
  • acont99acont99 Member Posts: 5
    I am thinking of getting into a 2001 Aurora 4.0 finance. Since the 2001 model is not yet listed I was wondering if some of you have an idea or experience what the depreciation on that car is.
    Is it worth to spent 28K (incl. finance charges) on a 2001 model with 5K miles?
    Thanks, Stefan
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    I put in some "cheaper" gas the other day. There's a place here that has 93 octane premium for about 10 cents cheaper than everywhere else, so I thought I was being smart buying gas there, but maybe not. My surging is noticable when I'm accelerating. It almost feels like something in the drivetrain is slipping, but I'm almost positive it's the engine (watching the tach). Too bad this car doesn't have a service mode like my toronado does.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I always use premium and have not noticed the problem. I DO KNOW that the car is VERY VERY VERY gas sensitive on what grade of gas I use. If I put in regulart or "silver" I can get behind the wheel and know right way i have lower octane gas in the car. However, the Shell Ultra 94 Octane did not create a noticeable difference in performance.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    is definitely a problem when it goes out. I was just browsing at some shops to just price the battery and nobody has this kind. It has to be ordered. I also have a 95 with the original and was preparing for our brutal Chicago winter and thinking I was pushing my luck going thru another winter with it. I am thinking if anyone's battery goes out they will be in trouble unless they go with one with less cold cranking amps than the one suggested.
  • andyl2andyl2 Member Posts: 84
    My Aurora was new in December 1994 and I have had no problem with the original battery. The car was totaled a month ago, so I guess it isn't a concern any more...
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Still on the ORIGINAL battery on my 1995. I think this discussion is interesting in that I had been wondering when to replace the battery. What are the amps that are supposed to be displayed on the DIC ??
  • autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    To all of those inquiring about replacing the battery in your olds.....if there is any doubt about how good the battery is, i would strongly advise to replace it. i have a 95, and in less then 3 days, it went from working great, to being so weak it wouldn't even light up the interior lights. when you think of all the electronics on this highly sophisticated car, it's definately not worth the risk of having the heart of the electrical system die. the cold season is around the corner, and that alone is rough on a car's battery.
    that's just my honest opinion, i hope this saves someone from getting stuck somewhere, and of course it would happen at the most inconvenient time and place.
  • darren13darren13 Member Posts: 7
    I have been lurking on this site since January. It is really fun. For the most part, everyone seems excited about his/her car.

    I always knew that I would buy a new car in the Fall. I am now convinced that I should buy an Aurora. The members of this board seem to have expert advice. Can someone tell me things to look for when buying a 1996 or 1997 Aurora. I am closely examining a low-mileage '96 (about 47k miles, $11k). What are the common problems? What are the common service issues? Any defects for these years? Is the money amount good (I imagine that Olds cars are selling for pretty low prices these days)? THANKS IN ADVANCE.
  • worldii2worldii2 Member Posts: 27
    The consumer report on the 1996 Aurora has reliability ranking as outstanding based on survey
    from owners. The price on the 1996 is realistic based on the low miles. Wholesale is around
    8K because of new Aurora body change. If the 96
    is at a dealership, ask that the service department to run the VIN number regarding service.
    They have the capabilities to give you a computer
    readout (titled HISTORY LISTING) which entails
    every service job peformed including oil/filter
    changes. If purchase is from a private owner inquire what dealersip serviced vehicle and ask
    seller to obtain info for you. It seems the 1996
    Aurora owners on this site are pleased with there
    vehicle. Inquire if there is any remaining warranty which can be transferred to you. My opinion is that your considering a good vehicle.
    TRY TO GET SOME TYPE WARRANTY!!!!
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    have been showing on the monitor at anywhere from 13 to 15 volts. If only 4 volts, I would be very worried.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My independent mechanic has been telling me about GM's "new" gel battery. Is this new technology the way for us to go when replacing the battery on the Classics?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    darren13,

    When I bought my '97 in September 1999, I started out looking at '95s and '96s In researching the differences among model years, I came up with the following from articles published on the web:

    Changes from 1995 to 1996: removed backlight distortion (at least one discussion member has stated that the '95's distortion isn't all that bad). Added DRLs, panic button to keyless entry, seats and mirrors move to preset position when doors are unlocked using keyless remote, programmable door locks, perimeter lighting activated when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, and recirculation mode for a/c.

    Changes from 1996 to 1997: Added parallel park assist (right mirror dips when in reverse), compass to rear-view mirror, 3-channel garage-door opener. Changed: front rotors increased from 275 to 278 millimeters, FE3 sport suspension (different front springs, struts, and stabilizer bar; rear suspension pieces did not change), improved operation of the outside door handles, and end-release seat-belt buckles.

    Changes from 1997 to 1998: second-generation air bags.

    Whether any of these differences are significant enough to base a purchase decision is up to you. I did start looking at '97s (and eventually bought) because of the "improved" brakes and FE3 suspension. In retrospect I don't know how much of a real improvement, if any, there is. It's sure not my father's FE3! But then I am a former 4-4-2 owner, and my standards for handling are high. Perhaps other members could share their experience.

    Even though I have listed the diffences among model years, I believe more important factors are condition, miles, price, and, as worldii2 pointed out, a good warranty. I've been pretty lucky with my '97 so far, but some owners have had significant, expensive problems.

    Good luck!
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    ....but I'm here to announce the new Oldsmobile Aurora Owners club now available on Edmunds.com Owner's Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Sedans.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Yes I am gonna wear the title.

    I have left my mark on the Owners Club.

    I think it only fitting that I was the first one. (Zinc1 you know what i mean).
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    This thread has been fun as well as informative. To that end I would like one additional topic added to the Owner's club. A Best Postings topic. Some of the things posted on this board have just been down right funny, they should have a board of their own.

    My nominations would be:

    Zinc1 's - Whisper Sweat Nothings Posting.

    Zinc1's story of hitting 149mph
    (as told by Henri)
  • ewtewt Member Posts: 127
    The car won't run once the voltage gets around 11V. My alternator died on the way home from a 80 mile trip and the car literally quit running as I pulled into the driveway. The last time I looked at battery voltage it was at 11.2 or 11.3V. Replacing the alternator was not much fun. I've got a lot of tools,have done a lot of automotive repair work at home, and it took me 5 or 6 hours including a belt and radiator hose change. It wasn't much fun to say the least. Most of the bolts are very hard to get to because of the exhaust manifold on one side and motor mount on the other. The parts guy at the dealer said techs at the dealership actually drop the engine/tranny because it is so hard to get to from above.

    I'm still on the original battery as well with a 96. Keeping them out of the underhood heat must make them last longer.

    Eric
  • mosaixmosaix Member Posts: 106
    Any 2001 Aurora owners here? Specifically 3.5 owners. It seems alot here really love the previous generation Aurora and I like it alot too, I'm just curious how some Aurora 3.5 owners are liking their cars. I recently purchased an Intrigue GLS and also considered the Aurora 3.5, but it didn't seem to justify the higher price. Now the 4.0 version is a completely different story, too bad it was just a bit out of my price range new. I did consider a late model used Aurora, but could not find one with the features or color I wanted. I specifically wanted a 98 or 99 in either black, dark red, dark blue, or bronzemist with the autobahn package, Bose, and sunroof. I found several 98s for as low as 18,900 with only about 35K, but they were both white(not the diamond white either) and no sunroof. Drove an 01 3.5 and despite having less road noise and more upscale interior trim, it really didn't seem to have much else that a loaded Intrigue GLS had so I went that route.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Glad you like the new digs! ;-)

    You'll need to email Karen to ask for new discussions to be added to the Club - karen@edmunds.com - she'll take care of it.

    Have fun!

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    Ah, yes, the One More Bauble post (it was *only* 139mph though). It is, in fact, fitting that you be the first in the Owner's Club. You started the Aurora thread back in '98.

    blk97aurora - Great info on the model-year changes. I have a 96 with the 3-channel garage door opener though. I think that was a 95 1/2 to 96 change. I've gone through one set of rotors in two years and they're beginning to shudder so I'll be having them checked again this weekend. I wonder if it's possible to just get the newer rotors.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Zinc1 -- you can probably get the updated rotors put on the car. The question is: Do you want to do whatever other modifications are needed to accomodate the new rotors?
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    That sounds like a great price for a 96. I just paid $9500 for a mint condition 1995 Aurora with 64K miles. The price I paid seems to be the "going rate" around here (Southern NH) -- I suppose there would be some variation in different regions of the country.
    I have had my car for 3 weeks now and I love it. Though the suspension is a little softer (less sporty) than I would have liked, so the FE3 option might be a good idea -- I'm going to have to see if those parts can be retrofitted to a '95 unless someone has some good aftermarket suggestions. (hint, hint!)
    I would strongly recommend a warrantee and see if you can push them to do a FULL tune-up. (Yes, it's not supposed to need one 'till 100K miles, but several people here have noted various tune-up related problems before then. (Including myself in regards to the "surging" topic -- see my next post.)
    Anyway good luck -- these are fantastic cars -- and that's coming from someone who's always been a "Ford guy!"

    JC
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Hi All,

    I want to thank everyone for their input on the "surging" topic I started last week. You've all been very helpful.
    In my last post I said I would tell you what the dealer said after they had the car today. The problem seems to be fixed. They managed to reproduce the surging/bucking problems. The following is the text right off of the repair invoice:

    --> "Confirmed customers concern of the vehicle bucking on acceleration. Inspected and found ignition skip and engine surge. Inspected and found burnt ignition wires. Removed and replaced wires and inspected operation. OK now."<--

    On the drive home, I could not make the car surge or buck, so it appears to be fixed. It was a simple fix and something that I certainly would have tried myself if the car hadn't still been under the 30 day warrantee.
    Anyway, thanks for the suggestions, I hope that this thread was helpful to others also.
    (Darren13 -- this is why I suggested that you try to get the dealer to perform a full tune-up as a condition of sale, it seems rather common for this stuff to crop up by 50-60K miles.)

    JC
  • rocket3_50rocket3_50 Member Posts: 42
    I'll speak up for the 3.5 V6. In 1999 I looked at the Intrigue and took my 15 year old son on the test drive. He liked it the best, and I liked it, too. But, I also drove the 1999 Mercury Sable, and liked the looks of it a little better - - just personal preference. The Merc salesman also found a program car with the peppier DOHC engine and ~6000 mi, so, with the $ savings I chose the Sable. I have been very happy with that car. Oh, yes, that was during the time period that Oldsmobile was trying out the Saturn "no negotiation" approach. It really turned me off. Does anyone know how long that program lasted?

    Anyway, two years later, and with one more family driver, it was time for a new car. I'm 52, and I figured, if not now, when? So, after almost 30 years of mid-size, mid-price sedans and minivans, I started shopping for a car just for me.

    Personal finances limited me to the "entry level luxury" cars. I drove the V6 and V8 Lincoln LS and the Aurora. Since I still have a 17 year old son in the house, I decided that I didn't ever want him in either of the V8s. Too much engine for a 17-year old, IMNSHO. (Probably too much engine for a juvenile 52-year old, too.) I liked the Aurora a little better. Tomorrow I'm taking the car into the shop for the first scheduled oil change, tire rotation, etc.

    The only complaint so far is an occasional short moan from the power steering unit on slow speed turns or dry turns. Also, not a complaint, but I'm used to being able to tell when the ac recirculation mode is active - - I can't tell if this one is operating or not because there's no increase in noise from the vents when I push the button, and the outside exhaust odors from other cars still come in, it seems. I'm extremely pleased with the car.

    The V6 has been enough for me in every road situation so far encountered up through 8000 miles, including climbing mild mountain grades in western North Carolina at 70+ mph. The car still feels tight, and quiet, as you would expect with only 8000 miles.
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    Hi everybody!!
    Has anyone had this problem?? My 95' aurora starts fine 1st time in the morning.Then when i start it the 2nd time usually 4 to 8 hours later,it cranks excessivley (6 seconds approx.)before starting.Now she is starting to stall on me at low idel(stop and go traffic,dunkin donuts drive thru etc.)When going down the highway she runs fantastic.I am a former mechanic but i am afraid this car is beyond my knowledge.This is the 1st problem i've had with this car since i've owned it and would appreciate any help. THANKS
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    zinc1,

    I just discovered I made a mistake on the rotor diameters I quoted. The 275mm is diameter of front (vented) rotors for 1997; 278mm is diameter of rear (solid) rotors for same year. I will find the diameter of the earlier front rotors and post it. As for using the larger rotors on earlier Auroras, I'll check the parts microfiche; may take a few days. My guess is that the pads and calipers (at least) are different also.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    I had my 98 in the dealer for a new water pump. They did not "burp" the system right, and I overheated a few miles down the road. I let it cool before limping it back, but it did seem to go into the 4 cylinder mode for a brief moment. It only got a little bit into the red on the temperature, but the computer said to change the oil. I had just done it with Mobil 1, but I made the dealer replace the M1 again.

    FYI I noticed my car uses some oil. It's less than a quart/1000, but I really did not like it. The Mobil 1 burns off way less. About 1/4 quart/1000 miles. I love that stuff. I'll be doing my own changes now. I'll save a mint and avoid a nervous breakdown from the goobers messin' up the interior and doing stupid things to my car under the hood.

    It's under warranty, so I put the stock air box back with a paper filter so that there is no possibility of questions. All I can say is I really think there is a big difference with my opened up box with a K&N. The biggest difference is when punching it at 40, or 50. Every time I switch back to stock, I notice the difference. I'll be switching back to stock for long road trips in the rain - just to be safe. I can't wait for the cat-back system. That plus the better box should really make it haul.

    BLK97 - call wheel to wheel. They made a "scoop" for their project deville that scooped air from inside the fender and channeled it into the box. They said they would call me back about getting one for my Aurora, but they never did. I'll have to call. I'll bet the Caddy and the Aurora air box arrangement is the same. Air does flow through there and enters around the headlight. I can't imagine there would be much velocity to take advantage of though. Also, water does fly through inside the fender, and the scoop may catch more of the water. Just a thought.

    The dealer confirmed that all the new Auroras have the 3.71 transaxle. I find it hard to believe that the original Aurora was best listed here at Edmunds at 8.1 for the 0 to 60 (I'm assuming that is for the 3.48) and the new 4.0's, which are about 160 lbs lighter with the 3.71 are only 7.8. Someone on the Marauder board said they saw the new 4.0's listed at 7.5 somewhere. I swear the 0 to 60 stuff is really weird. Who to believe?? BLK97 - thanks again for all your documentation on the acceleration.

    I 'll always like the original best, but you know, those new Auroras are getting to me too.
  • iahmatthewiahmatthew Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97 Aurora and the dual A/C has stopped working properly. The passenger side blows cold, but the driver side only has a hint of cool air associated with it (This is not a good thing in Texas!)

    I have changed the temp sensor under the driver dash, but no change. Not sure what to do next except send it to the shop.

    Any suggestions?
  • redskin024redskin024 Member Posts: 110
    "Since I still have a 17 year old son in the house, I decided that I didn't ever want him in either of the V8s. Too much engine for a 17-year old, IMNSHO."

    You know, you are right, and you are wrong.

    A Rocket 350 is a lot of engine, but a lot of fun. But thats another story.

    When i first got my license my dad had a 97 Aurora (Im 19). I got my first speeding ticket in that car. How fast you ask? 95mph in a 40mph zone. At least the cop didnt write that on the ticket.

    My first night out with that car, i went past 70mph a couple times on residential streets.

    It is cases like the above where it is too much engine.

    It is not too much engine when you can pass Gramps driving 30mph in a Crown Vic on a two lane road in 1 second flat.

    You live and you learn. I learned from my father's Aurora that driving that fast can get you in trouble.

    Now I own a 1987 Monte Carlo SS Aerocoupe. I do not beat on this car. I think i have floored it maybe twice.

    My mother drives an 88 Eldorado with a 4.5 V8. I beat on it once in a while.

    My point is, when he gets his first speeding ticket, he will learn what "too much engine" is.
  • iahmatthewiahmatthew Member Posts: 7
    Just had to replace my battery.

    $100

    (You have to use the recommended battery, because of the drain lines located on top of battery)

    O'Reilly Auto Parts carries the battery, though they do have to order it

    I believe the DIC voltage is the alternator - my battery died, and my DIC read 12 - 14.3.

    Good luck
Sign In or Register to comment.