Oldsmobile Aurora

blk97aurora · October 2001

Re: #1767. I wanted to add the stock CD changer to my '97 Aurora. After spotting one on eBay, I checked my car for the wiring -- not there. Which was a surprise given my experience with GM cars over many years. So I found a source for the cable. Next surprise -- when I pulled the radio (stock, with Tape / CD button) there was no connector for the CD changer cable. There was a slot in the chassis for it, but no connector.

garnes · October 2001

Hardesty - great descriptions. It's nice to hear someone acknowledge that the "peak" numbers can be misleading. It's really all about the "area under the curve" and how much power you have going all the way up. With the traction off, I too was surprised as to how much rubber I got on the big heavy 98 - very new tires too.

Well, I'm scheduled to hit the dyno this coming Monday. What a rush. I've finished with a lot more modifications on the air box. It's done now. I have taken before and after pictures and I really think the box will perform better than the first time. I also hope to get the pictures and everything on the caddyinfo.com site as well. Hopefully that torque curve will flatten out even more.

I'll test the granatelli mass air flow meter too I hope. I have to admit, it is just a modified unit from the dealer. The screen is removed and it was somewhat crudely bored out. It has been recalibrated for the greater flow capabilities. The fuel/air ratio's are to stay the same I think. Just more fuel for the additional air. I think the dyno can monitor what is happening with that too. I'm really wondering about this thing now.

Cat back system - I called Corsa, and they are still busy with "meat and potato" truck stuff. I hassled them to doing something I hope. If any of you is really interested in a stainless steel cat-back for the Aurora, go to http://www.corsaperf.com and drop Jim Browning Jr. an e-mail. He said they have a request for a 2001 Aurora as well. Perhaps I'm the only nut here that wants this bad.

shucknet · November 2001

You probably got the wrong cable, then. The Olds units (and all full double DIN usits) have a 32 pin connector on the back as opposed to the segmented 20 (or so) pin connector on the 1 - 1/2 DIN units.

The CD Changer cable you need is one that actually plugs between your stereo and the factory harness. It basically splits off the wires for the CD changer and runs them to the trunk. The cable you got is probably one for a Chevy. Those are different.

This is the cable you need:

http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_4667718

This is probably the cable you have:

http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_648913

I would keep an eye on ebay for them. If you want, I can give you a link to a place that sells them (e-mail me ryan@shucknet.com since edmunds doesn't like it if I say where to buy it here) but they are expensive ($75) from those guys. I got mine off ebay for about $35.

wingnut396 · November 2001

Hey, thats only about 45 minutes away! Some strange, rubbernecking side of me want to go check it out.

Also, if I could get that for 2K, then I'll have a whole backup Aurora for later

For Aurora Bill: "luxury-sport-galaxy cruiser" . Is that the official EPA class description? Great description.

Henry · November 2001

I believe the Aurora is a Galaxy Class vehicle.
The Intrigue is more Intrepid Class.

I was at home today when the car did the unnerving 1/2 second delayed crank.

Anybody have ANY ideas????

Henri

mlm4 · November 2001

We have an Alero in our household fleet, and it exhibits the same delayed cranking effect when the key is turned to START -- about a half-second. Others on the Alero forum have experienced the same thing. My 2000 Bonneville also has a very very slight delay if I turn the key quickly after inserting the key into the ignition switch. My best educated guess is that it has something to do with PassKey II. Maybe it takes the system a second to validate the transponder in the key head. On my Bonnie there doesn't seem to be a delay if I wait a second or two after inserting the key before trying to start the engine, but that's not based on scientific evidence. Just a guess...

garnes · November 2001

Henri - that pass key idea from mlm4 may not be a bad thing to look into. The dealer told me about a person that had "ghost" problems with the car not starting - just nothing when the key is turned. It ended up being the chip in the key going bad. Try using a different spare key. Sorry if it sounds stupid. I have no idea if the pass-key is an all-or-nothing deal (works or doesn't) and could give the problems you have.

Has anybody removed the console?? I think you start by removing the screws in the middle compartment. I'd love to get at the clear plastic lens over the R-N-D-3-2-1 display. It has some crud on the back side. Any suggestions as to taking this apart for cleaning?? Anybody done it?

Also - If I could get some 2001/02 Aurora 17 inch chrome, what tire size will match the stock 235/60/16's on the 98? The brochure for 2001 lists the 17's as being 235/55's. Are these the same height as my stock wheels and tires?

I'm having the junk yard do a computer search. I'll bet the dealer would want over 2k for them. What would be a "fair" price? Under 1k?

fjk57702 · November 2001

235/55/17 will be .1 inches larger diameter than the 235/60/16. Goodyear makes eagle LS's in this size. Their web site has specs. To compute diameter do this: 235*0.55/25.4*2+17=27.2 & stock is: 235*.6/25.4*2+16=27.1 Goodyear says they are 0.1 inches less than that. ??? Close enough for ...

garnes · November 2001

fjk - thanks. Tires probably vary .1 inch just from tire inflation differences sometimes. That should be close enough or really as close as possible. I can't believe all the good info so many of you got. Thanks again.

Something tells me it will be hard to find these wheels. I'd love to do it. They look great and are "Olds".

shucknet · November 2001

Wheels - there was a set on eBay last week that were about $600.

See if you can contact the seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596638264&r=0&t=0

I would recommend Goodyear Eagle RS-As or some sort of Michelin V or Z rated tire. I can't stand driving S rated tires anymore, the sidewalls have too much flex in curves and you can just feel the tires rolling on the side. Not to mention, the RS-As look really nice, but the LSs are pretty plain.

Console - I had part of mine apart, but never got into the shifter. If you get into it, let me know cuz I want to clean mine out and fix a little broken plastic piece. You start in the console itself and remove the interior, then there are some snaps under the wood trim that hold it together there. I didn't get it all the way out, so I can't help you much past there. I can look in my service manual and give you better instructions if you need it though.

shucknet · November 2001

I want to see pictures after you get them

garnes · November 2001

shucknet - hey thanks. I'll call Monday. They are listed as 16x7.5 but I don't think that is right. I think only the 17's are 7.5 wide, and I'm not sure the 16's could be chrome for 2001 or 2002's. Maybe they could. Anyway, I hope those are indeed 17's. That's all I'd be interested in. $900 is fair I guess. Chromed aluminum wheels will run about $1,000 at a wheel shop I think. $600 or $700 would be a deal - especially new out of the box. You guys are great. Yeah I'd have to take a picture. 17's with the 55's would look a bit tougher on the classic. Do the Micheline MXV4's come in 17 - 55's? They have been decent tires, although they seem to wear a bit quickly.

Henry · November 2001

This is old news for me. I had my mechanic at an Olds dealer lokk into this. You can directly put the 2001 wheel combination on the CLASSIC. No adjustments are needed. From the dealer you are talking about $1,900.00

Henry · November 2001

I believe the OEM tires on the 2001 are Michelins.

Henry · November 2001

Where is your console chipped? Mine is cracked in the lower left hand corner.

Henri

hardesty · November 2001

That auction looks like the 16" wheels, which are available in chrome, and I belive are the same wheels used on the classic Aurora (16x7). The 2001 & 2002 16" wheels get 225/60/16 Goodyear tires. The 17" wheels (17x7.5) get 235/55/17 Michelin MXV4-Plus tires. Both are H-rated (130 MPH). http://www.aaarims.com has some good pictures of the wheels. Or you can check out this (my old 2001 AV8 for sale on the local dealer lot).

garnes · November 2001

Hardesty - thanks for the other link. After looking closely at the pictures there, I think the ones that were on e-bay are in fact the 17's. The "knife edge" that runs the length of each spoke doesn't appear to extend to the center cap. The e-bay picture is otherwise washed out some - silvers and blacks are hard to tell apart. I'll call Monday.

I saw this link here on Edmunds on an oil dicussion and it is great. Check out how different motor oils perform. I really think the Mobile 1 is worth the money after reading this. For those that are battling oil consumption, It seems that the AMSOIL may edge out the M1 too. Both seem to be great. Of interest is that these two synthetics will leave behind virtually no deposits.

http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil

aurorabill · November 2001

I can't see breaking this posting up into 5-6 categories... besides I don't mind rambling.

I plan to cover my most recent repair, an Intrigue loaner car, my 30 minutes in a 2001 Aurora 4.0, pricing on the new ones and more.

REPAIR: My '95 ($98,000) was occasionally stalling at stoplights, I needed to give the accelerator some gas before it would start (instead of auto-start) and the transmission would thump in its downshift at low speeds (below 25 mph), plus it would occasionally surge forward around curves at about 15 mph.

My regular mechanic tried re programming the chip, and it didn't help much. At his recommendation I took it to an Olds dealer and low and behold -it was one simple part - the fuel pump regulator (17113398, $140 + 1.2 hours labor). Drives great now.

INTRIGUING: The dealer loaned my a 98 Intrigue (42,000 miles) with the 3.5 engine (I don't know which specific model of Intrigue or its HP). I was not impressed. Maybe it was a downscale, stripped model, but it felt like it came from the Chevy Citation factory. Many knobs had a cheap feel. The Interior looks and feels very basic. Even the cloth seats were a poor substitute for what I had in my 88 Chevy Corsica.

The engine performance was average for a car of this class. It was very smooth and quiet, but no muscle or sweet spot. Maybe I'm too spoiled with the amenities of the Aurora to ever go back.

FINALLY - the REVAMPED 01/02: On the way back from dealer repair, I said to myself, "why don't I finally take a test drive, even though I'm not really in the market? The dealer salesman got my a 4.0 and we drove locally and on the highway.

There is so much about this car that it similar to the 95-99. I didn't feel the space either wanting or much different in the interior or trunk.

I was surprised to see some wrinkles on the doors leather, I don't know whether this is intentional or not, but I'd think I'd rather have smooth.

The basic (non-Bose) radio is a bit improved in overall sound, but some of the buttons have been removed a probably need to be accessed via some menu. I hope they haven't removed the bass, treble, and balance controls.

The overall performance and handling is very similar to the 95-99 to my perception, although everything is tighter on a new car, of course.

The engine performance is claimed to 8 seconds for the 4.0 and about 8.6 or 7 for the 3.5. This car definitely has a better acceleration that the legacys, but not enough to cause a thrill. That, for me seems to be reserved for the SLS-STS. (Others might require a Corvette?). I would peg this car's performance between a legacy and an SLS. The composite 0-60 numbers I keep (which are only accurate within the limits of my own mind) are about 6.6 - 6.7 on an SLS, about 8.5 on a Legacy, and about 7.7-7.9 on an 01 or 02.

The car strikes me as being balanced and for the money, I'd say ... well let's talk money.

$$: When I returned to the dealership the salesman was anxious to run some numbers by me. The first bad new item was that they were only going to offer me $3,500 for mine! Ouch. I figured maybe $5K. Oh well. After feeling that barb, he showed me figures on both a 01 and 02. Way too high, IMV.

While I didn't write them down, I can give you approximations. The 4.0 '01 with sunroof and heated seats, but no Bose listed for $37+. With my car as trade in, it would cost $31K.

The 02 without sunroof and heated seats was going to be up at similar list. He claims just a $2.2K spread between Invoice and list. I mentioned to him that SLSs were going for $5k off of list.

There is a 0 percent finance on all 01's, btw. There percentage of finance on 02's depends on how many years. You can take $2K off instead of low financing.

With my legacy performing well, the test drive satisfying, but not compelling, the list and invoice of new Auroras not too enticing, and the low trade-in of my 95, there were many reasons to "sit tight". If the deals get better in the coming month or year, I may still go for a new one, and I told this to the salesperson.

My overall experience with the salesperson was a positive one, although I became increasingly annoyed when he left my unattended for 5 minutes at a stretch three times so he could confer with "whoever" about pricing. He actually made 2 mistakes which while probably not intentional, caused me to lose a bit of confidence in dealing with him.

I know this is a fantasy scenario, but if they had offered my, say $5k for the 95 and the $37 list was down to $32 - and I could do the deal for $27, I might have thought about it.

INTERESTING STORY: While returning from the test drive I asked the salesman about people who trade-in every year or so and told me about an interesting (and clearly obsessive) individual at his dealership. There's a guy who trades in has cars every 90 days. Can you believe it? Now hear this one, this same guy, bought a 01 Chevy SUV (Listed for $25-28K maybe), drove it 100 (that's one hundred) miles and traded it in. The residual trade-in was only $12K! Makes me feel better about my 95.

A dealer can not sell it as a demo, it must be sold as a used car.

AURORABILL

delrick · November 2001

Thanks for the responses.

Not sure I heard the analysis I was looking for though.

Obviously, everybody likes the V-8. So do I, I 'm sure.

The price difference, to me, is significant.

It may well be that the true engine delta isn't that much if you adjust for all the other stuff.

I wasn't going to get much of that other stuff anyway.

I would like the 17" wheels, but aside from that....traction control, PCS and Monsoon should do it.

If I decide to get the collector version, they will be availbale cheap on the lots in a couple of years.

Right now, I ned to replace my 99 Intrigue coming off of lease.

I figure with the finacing deals available, I can buy the 2002 3.5 for about $450/month x60.

That works out to around a lease payment but it buys the car and it has full warranty the full term.

I guess no one here owns one. Not sure how representative a rental experience might be, especially with a full load as was discussed.

I know it isn't going to be like a V-8...

gisom · November 2001

I too would like to clean that window where the drive initials are at. I took the storage console apart but somewhere was some hidden screws and could not pull apart, was afraid I was going to break or crack something. If anyone got lucky, let us know.

silotwo · November 2001

Thanks for the post. I also have a 95, bought it with 60k miles in July for $9,100.00. Had to work the dealer hard for a couple of months to get the price. The day I signed the deal I joked with the salesman that I'd love to hear him tell how little it was worth if I were to trade it on a 2001, he didn't answer, just looked at the ground.

Curious, how many miles do you have on yours as $3500.00 trade value seems awfully low, I sold my 93 Saturn with 96k miles for $3400.00 after I bought the 95.

Also test drove a 2002 4.0 while I had my olds van in for an alignment, same place I bought the 95. They simply handed me the keys and said "go have some fun" and I took the 2002 out for a drive on my own.

I too was surprised at how similar the interior looked and especially felt to the 95. And although tighter, a bit more responsive in both acceleration and handling, it just wasn't a big enough improvement to consider the $37K sticker.

Fortunately for me, the salesman knows me and didn't even bother to pitch me. Instead he just said that if I liked it, down the road they'd be available used at bargain prices, just like my 95 was.

When I got back in the 95 I liked it even more, (something about not having a payment book makes any car more enjoyable.)

Also had a 2002 Buick Park Avenue as a rental for a week in Florida, only 1K miles on it. Nice car, definitely top of the line, but honestly, the 95 is nicer all the way around.

I will enjoy the 95 as time passes and the 01/02's move to the irrationally low price points. Then I can plunk down some green and smile on the way home.

delrick · November 2001

Does anyone who reads this board have a 3.5 Aurora?

If so, what do you think of it?

If not, since this is the Aurora board, can anyone direct me to a place where I might get some first hand information?

Or is this, as it appears the Aurora V-8 only board?

aurorabill · November 2001

Silowtwo,

Thanks for your comments and sharing your story. In my article', I said that my 95 had: ($98,000). I see that the high performance luxury ride of my '95 had you fooled into thinking it was worth $98,000. Thanks but it has 98,000 miles; sorry for the typo.

Yeah, truth be told -- my prediction is that in about one year to 18 months the 2001 will be selling on the used market for high teens and the 2002 for low twenties. Some might think that optimistic for what will be a defunct Olds division. That will be a good time for us 95-ers with 120-130 miles and wholesale value under $2,000 to consider these models.

Aurorabill

drew43 · November 2001

Don't mean to sound like a knowitall because I'm certainly not,but it sounds like you might want to dump your regular mechanic.Given the symptoms you were having the fuel pressure regulator should have been the first thing checked.(common aurora problem) Then again, you know your mechanic better than I do so I guess I should just........butt out....

garnes · November 2001

Delrick - It does seem that most here just post about the 4.0's. You may want to jump on the Intrigue board and ask what they think. All the Intrigues have the 3.5 and it is exactly the same as the one in the Aurora 3.5 I believe.

My opinion is that the Aurora should have the 4.0. It's just a heavy car that needs the extra muscle. The engine is the Northstar 4.6 with just a smaller bore. The new Aurora 4.0's all have the 3.71 transaxle that the Caddy STS has as well. So if you step up to the 4.0 you are really getting the very best engine GM makes - with the Indy racing history too. Sorry about pitching the V8. I just can't help it.

I'm really starting to like the 2001, 2002 Aurora. Those deals you guys forcast will eventually become a reality for sure. In the future, I just may pick up one for the wife if I can find one with very low miles. Perhaps I'll still have the 98 (Embalmed in Mobile 1 and otherwise preserved due to insane attention). Two Auroras would be very cool.

I still hope someone has the answer as to how to get the console apart.

aurorabill · November 2001

Drew,

You said: It sounds like you might want to dump your regular mechanic. Given the symptoms you were having the fuel pressure regulator should have been the first thing checked.(common aurora problem)"

I say: I am going to give my mechanic "one chance" at solving problems that come up in the future. He has been my mechanic and accommodated me (Like 3 weeks ago when I left my Aurora on his lot at 11:30 pm) and this recent problem is the only thing that caused me to lose total confidence.

I now recognize that there are certain areas which would be better left to Olds specialists, like the ones at the dealer I went to. They work on, say 60-80 Auroras per month. My mechanic sees the same 2-3 per year. (FWIW, my mechanic read 10 pages of my notes on Aurora performance enhancements which I composited from this list.) He's less than one mile away. He will give me a lift home or to my office. The dealer is 16 miles away, but he gave me a loaner car, so I didn't have to borrow my dad's car.

I can't believe how nice it is to have the 'old car' back. By that I mean the car in its usual behavior: Luxury, Sport, Crusiser. Black on graphite. General public thinks its a few year old $35,000 car. NOT A $3,500 trade-in!

Aurorabill

daeven · November 2001

I have taken the console apart. I don't remember how the process starts, but I will try to figure it out and get back to you on that. I do remember I broke the high/standard performance wiring on the shifter lever when I pulled that off, so be careful.

On a similar note, there is a lot of dust on the back side of my clear dash plastic. Is that removable? I'd love to clean it out.

High milage: I rolled 196,000 miles last week on my 1995. My driving has dropped off a bit, but I may reach 200,000 before the end of this year. Since I just put new Yokohama tires on it, I now want to see at least 250,000 miles on it before it is replaced (probably with a 1997 or newer pearl white).

A while back I posted about problems with my CD changer. It refused to play CDs when the temperature dropped. I was about to send it in for a $300+ repair when I decided to take a look at it. I popped the covers off and watched the changer action - it worked fine. I wiped the laser with a Q-tip and my problems were solved!

Dan

fjk57702 · November 2001

Since you have an Intrigue with the 3.5, you should have a good idea about the engine. The V8 Aurora has more standard equipment that would cost about $1500 on the 3.5. The big difference would be performance, and mainly the ability to pass something easy on a 2 lane road. Otherwise, the 3.5 is probably less expensive to maintain and should get better gas mileage. I have a first generation Aurora, as do a lot of the others here. I have owned a number of big Buicks with the 3800, which is similar in power to the 3.5. The 3.5 is probably better than the 3800 for passing performance.

rocket3_50 · November 2001

Sorry to be slow in responding. It sounds like we approached the new Aurora with similar concerns.

My experience with the V-6 has been excellent, so far. I've put on 11,000 miles since April 4, 2001 with no surprises and just one very minor problem. I have an occasional moan from the power steering unit when just starting a dry turn, like backing up from a parallel parking spot. The dealer couldn't reproduce the sound, and the fluid's full, so I don't feel an urgent need to investigate and fix the moan.

Delivered defects - None. Build date in March 2001.

Problems in first 6 months - Just the one noted above, and it happens only occasionally.

Buyer's remorse - None.

Modifications - None, except I replaced the original oil at 1500 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic.

vs. V-8 - I test drove both. Liked both. Mostly the $$ made the decision for me, since I'm not really a performance enthusiast. The other factor was that I have a 17-year old high school senior in the house. I'd rather not have him testing the car's limits when I let him drive it. I know that people can speed even with a puny four banger, but I think it's undeniable that there's more temptation when you have more engine.

vs V-8 - - If you're more interested in the "luxury" aspects of the car than the "performance" aspects, then the cars are essentially the same once you add the options you want. I mean, the cabin layouts, the materials, the feel inside are identical. (I realize that the V-8's quicker acceleration could be considered, in a way, a "luxury" feature that the V-6 can't match.)

vs. V-8 - - The V-6 will climb the mild mountain grades in western North Carolina at 70+ mph with no problem. What more could you (legally)want? I suspect there would be a difference in passing situations, though. Someone earlier commented that the V-6 would go, when asked, but the V-8 would "launch" the car. I can't confirm from first hand, side-by-side experience, but I suspect it's something like the difference between Scotty saying, "Aye, Captain Kirk, she'll give you warp 8, for a while." , and Captain Picard saying, "Warp 8. Make it so, Number One." I suspect in passing situations this just means that with the V-6 you would have to plan your pass, just like most of us grew up doing, anyway. But with a V-8, you just decide to pass, and it happens. I confess that that difference has some appeal for me, just not several thousand dollars worth.

vs. V-8 - - I do like the V-8 trunk lid better without the extra licence plate molding.

vs. V-8 - - 16" vs 17" wheels - no biggee for me.

As in other areas of my life, my Aurora opinions may not be well reasoned or constructive, but they're certainly my opinions.

delrick · November 2001

That is exactly the type of info I was after.

And since I have experienced the Shortstar in my Intrigue, I am aware of what it is capable of.

Any other first hand Aurora 3.5 input would be much appreciated...

shucknet · November 2001

Wheels - The wheels are 17". I e-mailed the seller during the auction to let him know he had pictures of 17" wheels but listed them as 16" ones. He said that he had made a mistake when writing the listing and they were, in fact, 17" wheels.

Console - the part of mine that is broken is actually the black piece of plastic that covers the groove in the shifter. When I put the car in drive, you can see into the top of the shifter slot on the console. Kinda ugly, but the dealer said I'd need to buy the whole assembly to fix it and they quoted me a price of $795. I told them they could take that console and stick it in an undisclosed part of their body.

shucknet · November 2001

Does anyone else have problems with their rear deck lid rattling? I'm pretty sure mine is caused by the plastic around the collision light banging against the window. I think it happened when the previous owner (who, incidentally didn't give a crap about this car) had a cheap tint job done and the guys who removed it were careless and did something to it. Anyways, it's annoying and I was just curious if anyone else had this.

Going to fix it sometime - it will be easy. The tough part is getting it out. Have to remove the whole back seat and rear pillar flashing in order to get it out - yuck.

garnes · November 2001

First, general comments:

Rocket3 - very well reasoned I'd say. Glad you are doing so good with the 3.5.

Shucknet - yeah, the dealer told me the same about the console. I wanted to replace the clear plastic over the gear indicator and they said I had to buy the whole thing for about $800 or something like that. I had a deep scratch in the plastic. I rubbed it out with a little dab of Meguires mirror glaze No.7. I had to repeat the process a lot, but the scratch is gone.

Wheels - I called the company auctioning the Aurora chrome 17's on e-bay. They said they buy from the factory and currently have 13 sets of the 17's - brand new. He said he would let me have a set of 4 including center caps for $740. $40 to ship. That sounds like a great deal. I think he may have a hard time getting rid of all those. I really think the Clasic with the chrome 17's would be tough.

DYNO - Well I screwed up today. First run was with the stock air box and paper again just for the benchmark. The weather seemed the same as last time, but at least 5 or 6 degrees cooler. The Dynojet was still using the .98 correction factor as last time. The day was sunny with high pressure. The Aurora pumped out 3 more HP - up to a little over 192 at the wheels. Because the correction factor was the same (and only seems to keep you in the ballpark for big weather differences) I attribute the extra power to the cooler air.

Big mistake - I left the engine running (wanted to keep coolant flowing to keep things cool) while dismantling the air box. I set off the "service engine soon" when I pulled the air temp plug with everything alive. My power on future runs was no better than stock - even worse. When we looked the air/fuel mixture, it was noted that it was too rich - much more than the initial run. So we reset the computer and killed the warning light and ran again. It did better, but was still running a bit richer than initially. We decided to call it a day, and let the computer adjust and recalibrate itself the next week or so. The Mass air flow sensor is still in the box too. Oh well.

Next time I'll turn the engine off - like I did the first time.

Any comments on this unfortunate day on the dyno are welcome. If anything, it was interesting.

blk97aurora · November 2001

I experienced a no-start condition with my '97 yesterday. Original battery. I had the radio and some lights on while changing oil/filter and a few other tasks. Bought a new ACDelco 76-7yr battery today ($109 + tax + core charge).

I can handle the radio Theft Lock.

Now to my problem: the service manual describes using a scan tool to perform the TP sensor / idle learn procedure. I do not have a scan tool. What are my alternatives?

silotwo · November 2001

Anyone have the experience of a failed power window? I am curious about the potential cost. The front passengers window on my 95 works intermittently, fortunately when it doesn't work the window is up. Neither the drivers or passengers switch will operate it.

If it is a big hit I am thinking of a 3rd party warranty. Any suggestion on warranty companies ?

Blk97-I just had the battery replaced on my 95,installed cost at the dealer $120.00. I watched as it was done and it was a straight replacement with only the date on the DIC being reset. Maybe it is different on a 97, but on the 95 nothing was affected.

shucknet · November 2001

Sounds like a good deal. I really want to see the pictures when you get them to see if it's something I want to do.

daeven · November 2001

My console was broken just like yours. I think the parts amounted to $15 for what needed to be replaced. They have a part # for the black plastic cover ($8), and you will need to replace the black rubber flexible part on the shifter and the plastic piece it snaps into. They also suggest replacing the shift indicator parts.

I believe Oldsmobile has a service bulletin published for this exact repair. It is what lists the parts you need to order, but a parts counter guy should be able to pull up the fiche for you to figure it out. http://www.alldata.com can give you a copy of the service bulletin, but it appears you have to subscribe to see it. I was able to get a list of them and have the Olds dealer print it out for me.

I think (but I haven't verified this yet) the disassembly process starts with removing the interior of the arm rest storage area, and removal of the shift lever (be careful of the performance button wiring).

If you are going to do this yourself, I would be happy to disassembly mine again and write up the procedure for you. Just let me know, and of course I cannot be held liable for any problems you have as a result of following my directions, blah, blah, blah.

BTW, my car is a 1995 Aurora.

Dan

daeven · November 2001

I amy be confused about which part is broken on your console, Shucknet. The part I was speaking about is the flat black plastic piece that the shifter comes up through. It slides forward and back as you move the shifter.

garnes · November 2001

Blk97 - When I bought my car in March, I noticed the drivers side rear window would not work. Then it came to life and has never been a problem again. Same for the drivers seat tilt (bottom). It would work intermittantly, but now it always works. Weird.

Shucknet - I'm still considering it. I think I'll do it though.

Daeven - I'd love to know how to pull that console apart just to clean the smears and crud on the back side of the clear plastic. (dealer replaced the bulb once and smudged it up) That would be really kind of you, but don't go through too much trouble.

Just an idea, you can get the lens over the dash for about $12. I had the dealer replace it (previous knucklehead owner must have used some Brawny paper towels or Brillo to "clean" it). That may be an easy job too that would really make the car new inside. The guys at the dealership smudged that too a bit on the inside face when putting it in. I'd recommend figuring out how to change it yourself.

shucknet · November 2001

All good suggestions. This is the kind of stuff that makes a car look good on the inside.

Daeven - that's the part I'm talking about. I wouldn't mind cleaning the shift indicator, too but don't know if that's possible. I think I need the bulb replaced in that thing, too.

I also would love to replace the plastic over my instrument cluster. It's somewhat scratched. I've also got a burnt out light behind the cluster. Anyone had to replace these? My 92 toronado had one do that in the CD player and I had to solder a new one on the back of the circuit board for that. Hopefully this one is easier than that.

garnes · November 2001

Shucknet - yeah, that's the lens that you want over the cluster. It's about $12. About $60 to install, but it's probably easy and the goof in the shop will smudge up the inside. I don't know how to replace it - maybe just pop off the two very small plastic panels (light dimmer and the trunk and fuel release) that seem to hold the lens in. I can't help you with the light behind it.

I had the dealer do the light in the shifter diplay (warranty). It should light up a bright orange. They actually cleaned the backside of the clear plastic over the gear indicator too, but also left behind greasy smudges that seem to have discolored more with time. That's why I'd love to get at it again.

rbreen · November 2001

I've had my '99 about three months-I love it. I have had no problems. I have been reading this forum since before I bought my Aurora. In fact it greatly helped me make my mind up to buy one. Thanks everyone. One thing I have noticed is that I cannot see the shift indicator at night. It has been like this since the night that I drove it home. The light behind the clear plastic lights, so I just figured that this is the way it is. I can't see the actual orange needle though [it is not a problem during the day]. How about you others-is yours easy to see at night? Games-your last message got me thinking that there might be another separate light for the indicator. Is this the light that you are refering to? My car is still under factory warranty. If that should be lighting, I'll have a dealer fix it.

blk97aurora · November 2001

Tearing into the console was one of my first repair activities. Daeven is right about starting disasembly with the console tray -- 4 screws at the top and 2 at the bottom. Careful with them -- I dropped 2 down the a/c duct, never to be seen again; at least I don't hear them. Then there are 2 screws behind the ashtray door and I think 2 more behind the trim plate that surrounds the radio. Remove the shifter -- pull straight up after removing the metal retainer clip on the front. Carefully observe the wiring for the performance button as it can be tricky to reinstall. My objective was to fix the illumination for the gear shift indicator -- should be bright red or orange. In my case the wiring was broken; a poor job of design. The wire is very small gauge and not flexible (I think it may even have been solid instead of stranded). Add to that the bad wire dress that gave little strain relief as the shifter moved forward and back, and I'd be surprised if the wiring lasted more than 6 months in normal service. I replaced it with very flexible test lead wire from Radio Shack.

Thanks to those of you who gave me advice on replacing the battery. I was concerned with what I read in the service manual about the TP sensor / idle learn procedure. After giving it some thought overnight, I came up with what is probably a very obvious solution. I connected a portable jump-start battery (usually carried in my wife's minivan) to the battery terminal and ground under the hood. I figured that there would be no disruption of voltage as I disconnected the Aurora battery. My results still puzzle me. I did not lose the radio presets nor DIC information; radio TheftLock was not activated, BUT the clock reset to 1:00 AM. When I started the engine, it seemed to hunt for idle for 10 to 15 seconds, then settled down. I drove it a few miles and everything seems fine.

silotwo: my experience seems to mirror yours. I would probably have gone the dealer route for $120, but I no longer have a local Olds dealer (parted ways with GM in April and is now exclusively BMW), and my local Pontiac dealer wanted $150 for the battery (not including installation).

BTW, that battery is a heavy sucker -- 55 pounds. When I checked the internet for batteries, it showed up as ACDelco's heaviest auto battery. The others were in the 30 and low 40 pound range.

garnes · November 2001

rbreen - welcome. Yes, that is supposed to light up orange. It will be done under warranty. I was in the same boat as you when I first got it.

Blk97 - thanks for the description. It sounds tricky. After what I did, my confidence is low anyway. Well I disconnected the battery to try and help the computer reset after I apparently got it a bit confused. I hope there are no bad surprises when I hook it back up. I'm not sure what I should be concerned about with the idle and such. Well I'll find out in the morning I guess.

hammen2 · November 2001

Welcome rbreen,

The shift indicator is supposed to be illuminated so that it's bright orange when the full headlamps are on. This didn't work on my car, and the dealer I bought the car from (used) tried to repair it twice, before they figured out that the fuse was blown, and that's why it didn't illuminate. With this fuse out, the accessory power outlet didn't work either. So, test your accessory power outlet - if it doesn't work, the problem's a fuse, otherwise it's the bulb or the wiring (which my dealer did solder as well, in their first attempt to fix the problem).

Onto other common (minor) Aurora problems, on both my mother-in-law's and my own '98's, both of the cornering lamps in the front (on both sides) have had to be replaced due to moisture getting in them. Also, both of us have had the rear bumper come loose behind the rear wheels/had to be re-tightened.

M-I-L's steering is now intermittently making a groan when she turns left. Of course, it seems to always happen when she gets off work (GM Janesville Plant) at 2 a.m., but it's fine when she takes it to the dealership...

--Robert

matrixfrog · November 2001

Does anyone know how to replace the light in the center console? Mine never worked when I got it and I wouldnt mind reaplcing it but cant figure out how. Thanks...

Henry · November 2001

I take it you missed the last few postings. If you read back a few postings, this has been discussed to death. It has joined a list of subjects on this board that have beat a dead horse. Do you remember:

1) The operating temperature of the Aurora
2) The battery life
3) The air box modifications
4) The rear window seal
5) The stereo (i.e replacing, fixing, adding trunk
mounted CD player)
6) the stalling/surging issue
7) The check engine light (EGR valve)
8) Cleaning behind the console
9) The garage door opener control and the
"red light"

Come on guys, I know there are a few I left out.

(Hey Neo, I am just joking with you/us.)

Henry · November 2001

10) How long ___________ (fill in the blank) Aurora
was in the shop.

fjk57702 · November 2001

Mine doesn't work. Was a program car so first owner may have wiped it out. Will check fuses. Thanks for the tip. (its not hard to figure out what gear your in anyway from the tach)

shucknet · November 2001

Is there any way we can get the problems/solutions thing split up into different folders according to problem and then go through the archives and put the appropriate messages in the appropriate folders? That would be majorly helpful. Then you could just reference that thread. I'd be willing to do the sorting work (it would take a few days, but that's ok).

By the way, it's great to see all of the activity on this board the last week - our status is sliding back up the owner's club list. Way to go!

Oldsmobile Aurora

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