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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    We need a "Everything Else" catagory in the owners sections. That way us aurora owners could discuse things that dont relate to the aurora.

    rjs200240 - I would LOVE to have an Impala SS! I looked for them before I bought the aurora but I couldnt find any that were in my price range. However my girlfriends dad recently let me drive his Caprice and boy does that thing have some power! I didnt know those things were that fast. I always thought they were too heavy. As for the corvette I cant find any in my area with high millage. I think most are sunday drivers or something.

    nne3jxc - I do like 5.0's and agree with your last post. Only thing is my friend has one and I always have to be original. The older 5.0's are cheap and fast and easy to get.

    With all the new talk of the Aurora supercharger I started wondering where is it gonna fit? I am thing hood modifications will need to be done. Also where is the intercooler going fit and how good of a job is it going to do since we have no open grill? I dont know much about tc's/sc's so help me out.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    how are you going to keep the engine from exploding? The supercharged 3800 has heavy duty crankshaft and pistons just for the extra 40 hp.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Not only does the 3800 SC have beefed up internals, but the compression ratio is about 8.5:1. The Aurora's ratio of 10.3:1 almost guarantees detonation and engine failure with compressed air.

    An everything else category would work.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    How is it gonna work then? Sounds like a lot of modding is going to be done(ie comression?)to get the aurora supercharged. Any answers?
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    I'm not exactly sure where it will fit. I think the logistics of it working with the engine won't be that big of a deal. They have supercharged some 4.6 Northstars before without any troubles. Same engine.

    The S/C kit that's being developed is actually for a Seville STS, but I e-mailed the developer and he thought it could be fitted to an Aurora without too much trouble. We'll have to wait and see what it looks like under the STS hood when it comes out. I think the cost was $3500.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    There is info at http://www.caddyinfo.com which will answer your questions. A little supercharging may not overstress the engine.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    It is quite a bit different when a car maker supercharges an engine, and when an aftermarket company does it.

    A car maker has to ensure the engine can handle it, and can handle the heat, and will still perform reliably under poor conditions. Plus, they are in a position to design the engine, cooling system, and everything else to work with it. The same is true of real aftermarket tuners who put it all together for you (Lingenfelter and Callaway didn't just slap turbos on a Corvette, they overhauled the engine and accessories to work with it) and give you some sort of warranty.

    Companies that just make a supercharger (like Vortec, Paxton, etc) don't really care about the rest of your engine. If you have problems, they will cite the poor condition of your car, poor installation, or the fact that they only make it for "off-road" use. The superchargers are usually too much boost for the compression ratio and they make way too much heat (some have intercoolers but they usually block much of the radiator, so heat is still a problem). Plus, the packaging is usually awkward and makes any sort of engine maintenance a nightmare.

    I have heard numerous horror stories about aftermarket "bolt-on" superchargers. The only real successful stories I have heard were from people who used the supercharger along with an engine they modified to be supercharged. I would definitely NOT recommend using an aftermarket supercharger on your Aurora. If you want power, keep it naturally aspirated. A natural breather can still be a monster. Simple things like less restrictive intakes and exhaust to more time/money consuming like intake and head polishing and cam/valve work can make big improvements in power without compromising durability, economy, or everyday usability/smoothness.

    I would probably stay away from chip changes as OEM manufacturers do try to wring the most power out of the engine management as they can. Bumping up the timing or ignoring the knock-sensor can be a bad idea if you ever get some poorer quality fuel or you are in some excessively hot conditions or your car just is in need of a tune-up. The only computer tuning I would consider would be for the tranny to firm up shifts. If you don't mind a little less buttery-smoothness, this can increase performance a bit and extend the tranny's life.

    Maybe we should move this discussion to the mods board. :)
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Okay, I now need to replace the catalytic (sic) converter. So now I want toe replace the whole exhaust system. Who is better Corsa or Flowmaster?

    Opinions? I wanna do this.
  • keithpskeithps Member Posts: 3
    As I mentioned earlier, I have traded in my early production v-8 '01 for a new White Diamond Aurora with everything on it except for the factory CD changer. Well, as of a few days ago, I now have a 12 disc Pioneer FM changer installed, thanks to a car audio shop that could figure out how to do it.

    How does it sound through my Bose system? It can sound very good depending on the particular recording. I did make some tonal adjustments, different from what I had been using to get me the sound I wanted.

    I chose the Pioneer because of its features. It has a neat little remote control that I usually use for changing discs, changing tracks or fast forwarding or reversing, or pausing. The changer has memory for 100 discs, with favorite tracks and a disc title. There's also a small display /control panel that we have velcroed on the center console between the seat heater buttons. The remote control signal has lots of bounce in a car and does not have to be pointed at the display panel. I'm usually holding it in my hand with my hand on the steering wheel, and with the remote pointed at the top of the car, it works just fine.

    Usually on a pop music or jazz cd, there will only be a few songs that are my favorites. Now, I just select them as favorites, or unselect them, with my remote control. Then, I can choose to play only my favorites as I cycle through the 12 cds in my player. There are also choices for repeating tracks or discs or the whole magazine.

    Now, I get to listen to some of the hundreds of cds that I have and almost never listen to in the house. ( I have a home theater, HDTV, lots of DVDs and multiple international satellite systems to play with, and this leaves little time for cd listening at home.)

    Why my GM-Delco-Bose stereo was manufactured to not permit adding a hard wired cd changer does not make sense to me, but that's the way it is for the '01 and '02 models. And the antenna that plugs in to the back of the radio will not just directly plug in to an rf modulator as it would in the standard installation of an FM cd changer.

    Keith Smith
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Henry:
    I didn't realize either of these makers made mufflers for the Aurora. Flowmaster makes a good product, though they tend to have a fair amount of exhaust noise (intentionally). You might not want your Aurora to sound like a Mustang. Flowmasters are affordable, though. Their aluminizing lasts pretty long too (although it doesn't look as nice as stainless steel).

    Corsa might make a more appropriate muffler for a lux/performance car. It will probably cost more, look nicer, and sound a little quieter.

    Flowmaster is king (in my book) when it comes to maximum performance, though. I would say Borla is a close second (although quite a bit pricier).

    So there are my two cents on it...
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    Certain Model Kenwood CD changers will work with GM head units (those that have cd changer controls-usually an "aux" button or a "source" button. This will require a protocal convertor and a GM wire harness to run from the radio to the trunk. The harness "piggy backs" between the radio and the i/p harness-- there is not a specific plug for remote cd changers. WWW.pie.net
    has specific info. Even with the convertor and wiring harness(which you will need anyway) you should be able to have a full factory like installation for less than a delco unit.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Henri - The systems you are talking about replace everything AFTER the converter and are sold of course for performance gain.

    Flowmaster sells "high flow" replacement converters, but they said they are only for cars up to 1995. They probably add 1 or 2 HP. For some reason it is not "legal" to put one of their converters on a 1996 or newer car. I'm sure someone here knows the reason - probably some emissions laws after 1995 or something.

    As for cat-back exhaust systems (remember these DON'T replace the converter) nobody really makes one for the Aurora except RSM racing (by the way, RSM's system includes an oversized converter too - maybe it is "legal" because they will only do your car at their place - in Canada) I'm not so sure the RSM system is a good idea with the larger converter and all. If you enlarge the diameters too much and reduce the exit velocity a great deal, low end torque could suffer a little. I've always thought just sticking with a standard cat-back system from someone that does this all the time was the way to go.

    Anyway, from reading the Lincoln LS board, they got a little more performance from a Flowmaster system than the Borla, but the Flowmaster was too loud for them. They really seemed to like the Borla. Neither of these companies makes an Aurora system that I know of.

    Now about Corsa - they make a cat-back for the Caddy. It's about $1,000. They were recommended to me by Wheel to Wheel (they do a lot of the GM pace cars). They commented that the systems are very polite for regular driving but still perform well and sound tough when you want them to. Corsa even gave me the name of a reference that has an STS. This guy was the "prototype" car (a neighbor)and thought he would want it off ASAP, but decided to keep the system. He really likes it. Not too rude.

    I've been hassling Corsa to do something for the Aurora, and they finally borrowed another neighbor's 1998 Aurora. It is indeed different enough from the Caddy that you just can't modify a Caddy system for it. They said I could drive my car up to their place and let them custom fit a system on my car. It would take the better part of the day. I would also have to pay for the labor that day as well in addition to the $1,000. The total would be about $1,200 to $1,300 I think. I'm really starting to question doing this. That is a #%^% load of dough. You would think that if I drove up to the Cleveland area and used my car as the prototype, I would not get nailed for it. I really don't know about this anymore.

    The Caddy system added 22 HP at the wheels. The Aurora system, if proportional would do maybe 15 or so. I hope so at least. With just this exhaust and a K&N filter, you'd have at least a 272 to 278 HP Aurora. (assuming 10 to 15 gain from the exhaust and adding +7 from the filter which I've dyno'd myself - all at the wheels. divide by .78 for engine HP. That seems to be about right +/- for what I've seen from the dyno)

    Henry (and any of you other Aurora guys) here is the "deal". If any of you is really interested in a Corsa system and would go in with me, maybe we could make this happen for all of us. I'd still drive up there, but maybe I could get a system for no more than 1,000 (still a load of dough) and some of us could actually get the system. Perhaps they could knock out a few more systems after mine and ship those to you guys.

    I think Corsa is the way to go because they have a lot of GM experience especially with the Caddy Northstar. Plus the plug from Wheel to Wheel and the reference I called all seem to point to a good system. If any of you have an interest, just post something here. I'll Post my e-mail later if there is any interest.
  • ewtewt Member Posts: 127
    I own a 96 Aurora that I bought from my dad one year ago with 62K miles. I've had a LOT of problems with it in that time (driven about 10K miles). The alternator failed (very difficult to replace), the rear window defogger quit working, the right turn signal does not work (almost has to be the stalk assembly at this point), one of the lighter outlets doesn't work, something in the AC system (probably evaporator) is leaking, the rear window seal is coming apart, the wood trim on the driver's door is loose, and the sunroof motor probably needs replacement (doesn't stop at the appropriate time anymore). None of these problems are due to abuse or lack of maintenance. They are just due to poor engineering/parts quality. Based on my car and what I've read here, I certainly wouldn't call it a reliable car.

    The best attribute of the car is the engine, which is really nice and has surprising low end grunt for a (relatively) small displacement motor. My Aurora replaced a 93 Q45 that was totaled in an accident, and the Aurora is a lot torquier at low rpms than the Q45 was. I also like the unique styling of the car. It really stands out and looks especially good in black IMO. It is also a great car for highway driving, although I wish the seats provided more support. They are a little too soft for my taste. The built in computer is always entertaining and actually useful at times. I realized my alternator was dying and was able to get home before the battery died by looking at the voltage readout.

    For negatives about the car, reliability would be my number one complaint. Something new is always breaking on the car. The number of problems I've had (and my father before me) with the car are inexcusable for a car built in the last 5 years. GM's idea of quality is not the same as mine (or many other car makers). My other car is a 95 Toyota Supra twin turbo that sees significant time being driven flat out on racetracks with modifications that increase horsepower to about 480 (roughly 50% more than stock). In 2 years of ownership, the only thing that has needed repair is a wheel bearing. Commuting back and forth to work for half that time resulted in the repair list above on the Aurora. If you can get a good warranty, I'd highly recommend it.

    My second biggest complaint would be that the car feels very heavy and ponderous compared to other cars of the same size/weight. A Q45 feels like it weighs 500 lbs. less even though they are similar in size/weight The steering is heavy most of the time, but paradoxically provides almost no feedback and the variable assist goes away at inappropriate times (like turning the wheel quickly at parking lot speeds). It's not a car that is especially rewarding to drive fast on a mountain road. FWD is nice for bad weather, but there's a reason most sport sedans are RWD.

    I have mixed feelings about the car. It strikes me as a nice car with some good attributes, but with some serious deficiencies and definite concerns about reliability. Overall, I'd probably give it a C+. At current prices, it is a very nice car for the money though. I'm probably going to keep mine for awhile for financial reasons (buying a bigger house), and hope it stops breaking. Probably wishful thinking though based on what's happened to date...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    ewt: I'd like to offer a bit of info in defense of your comparison between the Aurora and the Q45. In 1995 (as close as I could get to 1993) the Q45 had a list price of about $52,500 whereas the Aurora had a list price of about $33,000. (The Supra Turbo was about $50,000.) This makes the Q about 60% more expensive than an Aurora. So it should be no surprise that it is nicer.

    However, I'm sorry to hear that you've had so many problems with it.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Hey, my Aurora's been good to me. Therefore all Aurora's are pretty good and GM's idea of quality is good too. Right??
  • larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    I've had just the opposite experience. I had a '92 Q45 that I traded for a '95 Aurora with 50K miles in May. By far, the Q45 was my "money pit" (BTW, my Q fell victim to the timing chain guide problem and I put a '93 used engine in it. The '92 had MUCH more low end torque than the '93, but that's a story for another board).

    I'm pleased to say (knocking rapidly on wood) that my aurora has been perfect and has cost me nothing in the 16K miles I've put on it since. The Q, however, had over $30K spent on it in the 2 years and 50K miles I put on it (89K when I got it).

    The Aurora, though, certainly doesn't have the road manners of the Q. I travel the state of Florida for a living and the Q45 across alligator alley at a steady 100+ was just sweet. I agree the Aurora is more softly sprung and probably not designed to be as much of a driver's car as the Q, but the Q is a hard act for any car to follow.

    The Aurora's pluses (to a 45yo old guy like me) in the interior appointments, gadgets, and styling tend to balance out the drivability differences. Throw in the MUCH MORE reasonable repair/maintenance cost (on one of my vists to the infiniti dealer they got me for $600 for a fuel pump and told me how lucky I was because that usually requrired an additional $500 part to be replaced as well--and he said this with a straight face) and I'm a happy camper.

    .....But not a stupid camper. I got the GM bumper-to-bumper warranty with my Aurora...just in case.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I am willing to dothe exhaust thing with you. MY mechanic recommended the Borla bacause it would not be as LOUD as the Flowmaster. However, we are still talking heavy modifications to get something to fit. I was also referred to a source in Long Island, New York where they do customised work. However, i am inclined to do corsa because of thier NorthStar experience. What does CORSA say about getting a new Cat converter??? Do they do this????

    To EVERYONE (including Pat) --> HAPPY THANKSGIVING
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    For what it's worth:

    Borla makes a fantastic product -- I wish they would make a Cat-back for the Aurora.
    I had a 1993 Ford Probe GT that I was getting tired of by about 1997 and was trying to sell. It needed an exhaust, but I found I could put the Borla on for only $50 more than the OEM exhaust. After installing the Borla I ended up keeping the GT until last August! The Borla exhaust made the Probe (which was already reasonably quick for a 3.5L v-6) into the next best thing to a muscle car. It really changed the car's low-end-rpm performance. The car was easily as fast 0-60 as my mid-80s Mustang GT. Although Borla said it would only add about 15hp, the difference in performance felt much greater.
    Plus, it didn't sound like one of those raspy "boy-racer" exhaust systems you see/hear on Hondas and Toyotas -- it had a very nice European tone -- a mellow growl, very much like a Ferrari. (it also had dual tips, not a single 4" tip like the Greddy, et al.)
    If Borla ever makes an exhaust for the Aurora, I will be the first in line...
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Henry - e-mail me at greg_garnes@earthtech.com

    I'll call Corsa next week and see how/if this will work. They called my Wednesday and said it will be $1,250. I have to drive to the Cleveland area. I'm not sure if when they do mine they could be basically recording or noting exactly what they did so they can make another one after I leave. My understanding is that they just can't measure up the car and fabricate this on the floor. They have to fit it right to the car hold the pieces up to the car and customize it) I'll call again to see if they can indeed make more than one with my car there and ship it to you.

    I'm still debating whether I want to do this. If we both do it, maybe the price will come down a bit. Anybody else interested?

    They said they just finished a one-of on a 2001 or 2002 Aurora 4.0 for a dealership. And they (Corsa) were very pleased with the results. Again, these are supposed to be polite for everyday driving but noticably tougher sounding and don't really sound mean until you get your foot into it more.

    Henry - call Corsa at 1-800-486-0999. Ask for Jim Browning Jr. I don't think they do the converters. You may be able to get an aftermarket one like flowmaster's converter and have someone put it on.

    For reference, the Borla cat back for the Lincoln LS is $900. So a custom job from Corsa is in the ball park I guess. I agree that it sounds like Borla is good too. Too bad they are not into Aurora's.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    For what its worth, the Borla website http://www.borla.com/welcome/
    has a link (once you search for your specific car application) to submit your model of car to them for consideration. If you submit your car model, they will at least think about making something for it.

    Also, I agree with all of you in that I really like Flowmaster, but I wouldn't put them on my Aurora. However, my inclination is that if Borla and Corsa made exhaust systems for my car, I'd go with the Borla (not knocking Corsa, though). I would consider Corsa in the absence of a Borla alternative, though. I have heard nothing but positive comments on the Corsa exhaust for the C5 Corvette. Corsa made the exhaust for the 1998 Corvette Pace Car. The $1250 really isn't a bad price considering it is custom exhaust work. Garnes, I trust you live somewhere near Cleveland?

    If you replace your catalytic converter you should check on the laws of your state that govern this. Some states don't allow replacement of the cats unless they are proven to be defective, and you may have to use stock replacements. There are manufacturers of high-flow cats that meet the requirements of some states. Hopefully none of you live in CA or else you'll probably have to have your state congressman accompany you to the mechanics and sign off on it. :)
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Does anyone else have a hard time reading their oil dipstick? It is always covered with oil in such a way that it is hard to get a read on it. No matter how long I let it sit, or how well I wipe it off first, it is hard to read. Plus, the dipstick has a bend to it and I'm not sure which way it is supposed to go back in (I put it in so the text on top is readable to me). It's a good thing it holds 7 quarts. Even if it's a little low, it still has at least 6 quarts in it. (My 'vette had 40% more engine displacement and only held 5 quarts)

    It's a shame that so many new cars don't have underhood lights. I don't understand this.

    I have been looking at the engine from the top (hood side) and I have yet to see anything related to the ignition. No plug wires, plugs, coil packs... not even a battery (it's under the back seat.) Weird...

    Anyone know if ACDelco makes an Ultraguard oil filter for the 4.0? As far as I can tell they only make the regular Duraguard filter (PF-58).

    I've noticed many of you mention filling the crank case up with Mobil 1. I like Mobil 1 a lot, but I won't spend $30+ to change the oil. I used conventional oil for the first change (at 800 miles to remove the break-in sludge) and will probably use 2 quarts of Mobil1 with 5 quarts of regular Mobil. This works out to be cheaper than the Mobil semi-synthetic, plus most semi-synthetics use from 10-20% synthetic. Using 2 out of 7 quarts of synthetic yields a blend of 29%. Assuming a cost of $4 per quart of Mobil 1, $1 per quart of Mobil regular, and $2.50 per quart of Mobil semi-syn, the cost savings is about $4.50 or 35%. Plus, you have a better mixture (than semi-synthetic, not than pure Mobil 1).

    Anyone use any sort of magnetic oil drain plug or anything? I wonder how effective they are in an engine with a lot of aluminum parts (aluminum has poor magnetic properties).

    Why does the official Aurora website mention "The 4.0-liter also offers a choice of normal or performance transmission operating modes." for the 2002 Aurora? I have one, and this is not true. I emailed Olds about it almost two weeks ago and have yet to hear anything. I realize the 95-99 Auroras did have this, which raises a question. Did the 95-99 Aurora have the 4T-80E tranny? If so, why did they remove this feature from the '01-02 4T-80E? Does anyone like the new shift gate on the '01-02 tranny? I think it looks neat, but I'm not sure if it makes much difference. However, I don't "manual" the car ever. I suppose if I did, I would appreciate that it is less likely that I'd jam it in "1" or "R" at inappropriate times.

    Ever wonder what the 4t-80E means? To the best of my (limited) knowledge, the "4" is for the 4 forward speeds, the "T" is for transverse (versus "L" for longitudinal), the "80" is some model designator (I don't know...) and the "E" is for electronic as opposed to hydralic. Electronic means that the computer can tell the tranny when to shift whereas in hydralic trannies it was in the valve body using some mechanical means. This meant that often the tranny would shift well ahead of the redline or even the power peak in certain gears. (I had an '87 Chevy Celebrity with a 3-speed that, when floored would stay in 1st up to about 30-35, shift to 2nd, and stay there for at most 10mph. The shift to 3rd at 40-45 or so, coupled with the cars substantial weigh, would overwhelm the puny 95hp and result in embarrassingly slow acceleration. Interestingly, if you let off the gas for a bit and re-floored it, it had no qualms about downshifting into 2nd for much more acceptable performance. The console shifter was a definite deterrent to manual shifting.)
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Do you know how to find GM's web site? gm.com
    There you can find out whats what about the various transmission in the powertrain pages.

    Regarding synthetic oils: The computer (oil monitor) is setup for conventional oils and will tell you when to change. Using synthetic will not change the oil monitors computerized system for deciding when the oil needs changed.
  • wonpderwonpder Member Posts: 20
    Around the country what kind of price discount is any one seeing on a 01 & 02 Aurora. I have been looking at one, but in N.W. Ohio they are not offer any cut deals. Woundering if it is like that across the county.
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    I will leave the factory oil in until around 3000 miles (on my 2002 4.0), then switch to full Mobil-1 0W30 and a Mobil-1 filter. After that, I will follow the computer, which the way I drive will yield changes every 6000-9000 miles (about once a year). Don't count on only using 7 quarts to fill this beast. My 2001 took 8 full quarts to reach full on the dipstick with good drain, new filter, and run, rest, and recheck. In a couple of years, Delphi's true oil life sensor should start showing up in cars. It will know the difference between synth & dino oil, know when you add oil (extending the life), etc. Delphi's studies show that most modern oils last between 8 & 15 thousand miles.

    Clean engine look: The 2001 & 2002 4.0 V8 has no plug wires at all. It uses coil at plug ignition modules (one for each bank) The module contains four coils that have the plug boot built in and an electronic module that powers all four coils (the heat sink for the electronics can be seen from the top).

    Pricing: you should be able to find an Aurora at or near invoice, then apply the rebate or financing deal. Use GMBuyPower to get quotes from dealers (or use AAA if you have it).
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs200240 - hey whoa, wait a minute. My 98 takes 8 quarts of oil. The owner's manual shows 7, but it takes 8 to get it to full. I called the dealership when I first got the car and they said that is does take 8. I don't know if the 2001/2's are different. Better check this. Maybe that is why it reads weird.

    All 2001/2002 4.0's have the 3.71 transaxle that was the "autobahn" option on the classic.

    I'll bet Corsa exhaust goes on all the GM pace cars. Wheel to Wheel makes the pace cars and they really like Corsa. I did put my electronic request to Borla though. I'm going to call them too just to make sure I don't miss a more economical alternative.

    About oil - For a car like the Aurora, I think the M1 is well worth the money if you plan to keep for a long time and you want the car to perform like new after many years. The M1 doesn't shear or break down under stress. Everything is 100% protected. It doesn't volatalize and burn off as much - and when it does, it leaves behind no deposits that regular oils do. It flows very well at colder temperatures and is there to protect the engine at cold start-ups. If you want that engine like new after years of service, I think it is the way to go. An M1 change at the dealer is about $70. It's crazy. I got the ramps and a 15 qt pan and a grease gun and do it myself now. I love doing it and no goobers get near the car now. I've posted this before and I think it is a must read. It's an eye opener on oil. Check it out.

    http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil

    Also, the M1 oil filter removes much smaller particles and has a considerable larger capacity to hold debris before it is "full".

    Any others interested in a Corsa cat-back exhaust system?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    rjs200240: I, too, find it very difficult to read the oil level on the dipstick. I have tried many things, including rotating the dipstick before pulling it out. Nothing seems to help. I'm not new at reading dipstips as I've driven/owned Oldsmobiles over a period of 38 years. I used to drill a small hole (about 1/16") at the "add" and "full" marks on the flat steel dipsticks. That was a big help, but I don't think it will work on the Aurora version. I have read that there was a dipstick recall, but I have no further information.

    My '97 holds 7.75 to 8 quarts to reach full after oil and filter change. ACDelco does sell a UPF58. I have been using them and 10W30 Mobil 1 since my first oil change (at ~40k miles, used car).

    garnes: Have you found a way to lube the upper front grease fittings without removing the wheels? I cannot find a way to reach them.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    For a $35k to $40k car the dipstick is terrible. I have always checked oil in my cars back to the 1940's, and never have I had the problems checking or inserting the dipstick. On my Aurora's, one side of the dipstick reads lower than the other. I too, will be changing to M1 on my next oil change. I have had good luck in the past using it in my other vehicles. I've heard you can run this oil up to 15K miles. This came from a mechanic that went to a school for oils, filters, parts, etc. He said change the filter depending on your driving conditions every 5k to 6k miles.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    blk97 - I've not been aware that there are any front fittings on my 98. I turned the wheels hard to one side to get a good look behind the wheel and I swear I saw no zerc fitting. I saw the rubber boot at a couple of connections, but no zerc fittings at all. I even felt for them where I could not see on top. Perhaps I'm missing something and have blown it thus far, or there is a slight difference between 97 and 98. Anybody else know something?

    If you turn the wheels hard to one side and you have a flexible hose connection, you should be able to grease behind the wheel. It won't be super easy, but reasonable.

    About oil - anybody that wants to further reduce oil consumption on these northstars may want to try the AMSOIL. It looks like it outperforms M1 and ha a much higher temperature endurance before it gives off vapors against a hot cylinder wall. You do have to order the stuff and have it shipped to your house.

    I'll admit, the dip stick is cheezy. Somebody's bright idea I guess. Mine will read a little lower on one side too a little, but it reads OK. If it's bent, maybe a new/used one will do.

    Just Henry and I interested in the Corsa exhaust so far? In addition to the added performance, it's all 304 stainless with 316 stainless tips. the whole thing should be shiney (oohh shiney) forever. The stock stuff is stainless in that it won't rust through, but it looks pretty bad pretty fast. It's a lower grade stainless. The car will sound as good as it looks too. I think I'll do it afterall. I'm willing to do a minor road trip - real "rough" in the Aurora, but someone's got to do it.

    If the exhaust does at least 10 at the wheels, then adding the K&N (+7 as I've confirmed) gives +17. 17/.766 = 22 HP. So you'd have a 272 HP Aurora. The .766 is based on the % to the wheels from the stock air box and clean paper filter first runs. Now, if it does 15 or 16 (which is proportional to the STS results of 20 to 22 claimed by Corsa) you've got a 279 or 280 HP Aurora. I haven't tested the the MAF sensor yet, but that could give you even more.

    By the way, anybody using the K&N should really try to remove the inner liner from the top and fully expose the hole in the metal under the air box after removing that goofy plastic insert (cut some plastic). It really doubles (at least) the HP and torque gain from the filter all over the curve - it just doesn't add peak HP past 5200 rpm.

    I did some more testing after removing some of the flanges from the top of the air box and cutting out most of the bottom plastic to get rid of that waffle pattern. I removed the flanges around where the horn used to come into the side of the bottom portion and gasketed the box bottom to the metal as well. It really is nice now, but it did not seem to add any additional power to the original mods. So, good news is just remove the upper liner and open up the bottom hole and you've got all the gains you are going to get.

    I even tested it with blocking the air from the original side (worried about turbulence) but it lost power that way. Just let the air flow from the bottom and the original side inlet.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    garnes: What have you been lubing with your grease gun? There may well be differences in suspension beween '97 and '98, but I don't think so. The changes were made between '96 and '97. Anyway, my '97 has two zerk fittings on each side at the front. The bottom ones are in the same position as lower ball joints in my RWD drive cars; the one on driver side points forward and I can get to it with great difficulty; the passenger-side one points to the rear and I cannot access it for lubing. I cannot even see the upper ones (steering linkage). That's why I have started removing the wheels to gain access. If I had a lift, the story might be different.

    Regarding performance exhausts -- I am very interested but have no extra $$$ right now. I'm interested in lower restriction for improved wheel hp and some growl. I never considered quietness a virtue in my cars. Also, being in NJ, I have to consider the state-mandated emissions testing which may eliminate a change in cat.

    Light the rockets!
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    On the transmission naming. I am 90% sure that the 80 indicates that it was designed for a maximum of 800 ft-lbs of torque. The 4T60E was specced at 600 ft-lbs and I seem to recall hearing somewhere (wish I could remember where) that the last two digits were a max torque figure. Can anyone else back this up?
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Blk97 - I just have two in the back - one on each side. I really looked good and saw no fittings up front. I got an old 77 monte carlo sitting in the garage. I think it has a total of 11 fittings (something like that). I'll look at that so as to maybe clue me in on something. I'll call an Olds dealer Monday too. You got me wondering now, but I swear I saw nothing at all.

    I know what you mean about the $$. I'm in a fortunate position right now, but that price (all these systems are big money) get's me questioning myself. I'll definitely want my old one back - shipped if necessary. At the very least, I'll keep the exhaust system, my better air box, and the MAF and sell it someday or put it on the next Aurora. Hey, this system (all cat-backs except for the RSM system) does not replace the converter. It won't change emissions at all. I'm sure it is legal everywhere.

    Interesting thought (for me anyway) on that growl you get on hard accelerations with the box modified. I like it, but of course you could not sell a luxury car to the general public like that. I noticed my wifes Impala 3.8 air box has no double wall or liner at all - but it is quiet. My theory is that the Aurora air box has a rather large open volume inside. It resonates like a drum - hence the top liner and the goofy plastic bottom insert and the air horn. The Impala air box is really up tight and close to the filter on both sides. I believe this is to eliminate any resonations and results in the most pee-poor air flow characteristics you could imagine. You know, I wish they would just design the air intake right on the inside and then double wall insulate it from the outside if needed to reduce noise. They do just the opposite and give away performance. After designing something as nice as the northstar engine, why to they do stupid stuff like this?
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    You know Blk97 may have a point. I am in New Jersey also (Newark), I wonder if the state will havve a problem with this mod? However, I too think that it should not make the car run dirtier. Is this correct?

    As crazy as this sounds. I really need to check back with the dealership. If the major cost in the exhaust is the cat, I need to assess exactly how much this little X-mas gift to myself will cost.

    Is it REALLY BEST to go with the factory cat???
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    The car just turned off the traction by itself. I went from a stop and spun the wheels (not on purpose) to get through an intersection. I noticed that after I went through it the traction off light was on. I tried to use the button to turn it back on but the button did nothing. I had to turn the car off and start it again.

    Has this ever happend to anybody???
  • autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    Henry-
    i have also had some slight problems with my traction control in the past. my Aurora is also a 95. The problem i had is that even sitting still in park with the engine running, the traction control module would fire up and i would hear it pulsating the front brakes. it would turn the "traction off" indicator light on after about 3 seconds.
    what it turned out to be, is that my front wheel bearing had to be replaced. there is a wheel speed sensor on all 4 corners of the car, and they can get false signals with 80,000 miles (in my case) worth of dust and dirt in them. i changed the left side myself, it was an easy job which fixed the problem for about 3 months, it's just starting to do it again, so i guess i'll have to do the right side wheel bearing now.
    i hope this helps.
  • shadowjack7shadowjack7 Member Posts: 7
    I've been thinking about getting an '02 Aurora, but my main concern is quality after having driven a Trans Am for several years. For those of you with '01 Auroras, what has your experience been? I had been leaning towards getting an Acura TL-S in recent months, but GM's low prices, 0% financing, and my GM Card earnings are not easy to pass up.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Perhaps I will reconsider using all Mobil 1. It's just that it is so expensive...

    blk97aurora: Where do you go to get the AC Delco UPF-58? All I can find is the regular Duraguard PF-58. I have checked Trak Autos and Pep Boys as well as Wal-Mart/Target type places. I always have a hard time finding AC Delco products (especially Dexron-III) at local stores. Sometimes I'll find local Mom & Pop auto parts stores that might have what I'm looking for, but it will be covered with dust and the packaging will be two styles old, making me hesitant to buy it.

    I have noticed the maintenance schedule on the Olds website mentions greasing the chasis, but the owners manual's maintenance schedule makes no mention of it. I haven't accumulated enough miles yet to worry about it. I will check and see what is there around 7500 when I pull the tires to rotate them. If there aren't any fittings on your car, it is possible that the fittings just weren't put in but that there are threaded holes for them. It's also possible that the car uses permanently lubed bushings and therefore doesn't need to be greased.

    On another note, I just took my car to the dealer today for an annual VA state inspection. Does anyone else live in VA? I really hate the annual inspection requirement. My door handle and steering wheel got all crudded up. This always annoys me. Plus, now there is some damn sticker in the windshield and I wonder how it will affect the light sensor for the headlights (I bought the car from a dealer in Maryland so it didn't have the VA sticker in it yet). Fortunately they didn't try to wash the exterior or anything. I hate that too because I don't care if the car gets clean if it also gets covered with swirl marks. I really hate taking my car to service places... Nobody cares about your car as much as you do...
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    The GM transmission designations go like this:
    first digit(4) means number of speeds
    second digit (t) stands for transverse
    third and fourth digit stands for the distance between gear centers (in this case 80mm)--generally the larger this number, the greater the torque capacity since it indicates the size of the gears.
    the last digit (e) does stand for electronic which they all are and have been for several years.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Some of you (shucknet & others) do not seem aware the General Motors has a web site! Anyway the 4T80 is rated for 460 ft-lbs (305 engine). Don't ask me the difference between transmission and engine ratings but I suspect that the engine rating is the max for an engine.

    My 98 does not use any oil to speak of between changes since the oil leak was fixed (valve cover). I would guess that if you use the oil monitor & conventional oil you will have a long engine life. I take my car to dealer ($25) for grease and oil change (about twice a year).
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    blk97 - I called the dealer, they said that even cars from the same year could have fittings up front or be sealed. It just depends. They suggested that I stop in to confirm this, but I'm pretty sure I do not have any fittings up front.

    Henry - I do not see how at cat-back exhaust system would affect emissions. It doesn't touch the converter. It's all about flow. Anyway, I just got off the phone with Corsa. They said that they may be able to do one more while I'm up there. After I'm gone, they may not be able to do another because they will not digitize the system and make molds. I'LL BE THERE THIS FRIDAY the 30th. So, if you want this, you have to call Jim Browning Jr. and give him an order with your credit card before Friday.

    Note - they said that the 2001 and 2002 system they did was very similar to the Seville, so they could probably do these more easily if anybody wanted one. Just call. They said it really made the Aurora jump. After doing mine, if it doesn't require too much custom work, there is some chance that systems for the classic can be made from the existing Caddy system they have - but this is a big IF at this point.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    My 95 is doing the traction thing on and off right now. How do I change the bearings and can I get them at Autozone? The sound seems like it is coming from the drivers side. I tried the car wash with the high pressure hose around the wheel sensor and it seemed to work for a little while.

    Greg
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Let me know how it turns out. I do not want to change my system until after the winter. Why put in a new system and then subject it to a New Jersey winter with all the salted roads to go with it??

    Maybe they will be able to do me later in the Spring.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Well They told me that after I'm gone, they will not likely be able to do another. It may be now or never unless they discover that the Caddy system is actually easy to convert. I asked the same and they said they get pretty busy in the spring with the regular production stuff. The system is 304 stainless steel too. It's not the same stainless as the stock system. 304 is great stuff. We specify it all the time at work for sewage pumping stations where there all sorts of corrosive gases like hydrogen sulfide that could attack it. I think the 304 pretty much will never care what the road throws at it. It should always look nice. The tips are 316 which is even better.
  • autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    gisom-
    the wheel bearing is very easy to change, providing you have the right tools. i did the entire job in about an hour and a half. i am always working on someone's car on the side, so i've got quite a warehouse of automotive and shop tools. you need a very large socket(i can't remember the size off the top of my head) to remove the nut on the end of the CV shaft. that should be the only specialty tool you'll need.

    as far as using a pressure washer to cure the problem,it's a very bad idea. i made the same mistake but only i used a mild degreaser and just garden hose pressure. after a short time, the bearing made alot of grinding noise from being doused with the water because the ball bearings had actually started to rust. you have to be very careful not to get water on the bearings and speed sensors!
    i think Autozone does carry the bearing,i picked mine up at NAPA for 160$ with a lifetime warranty.
    let me know what you decide to do.
    good luck.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    rjs200240:

    I bought all mine at 2 or 3 Pep Boys stores in central NJ. As I recall, regular price was $9 or $10; I think I bought 2 on sale for $8 each.

    If you cannot find them, let me know what you need and I can buy one or more and ship them to you.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Anyone here replaced the shocks and springs on a classic? I'd really like to make mine handle a little better. KYB makes a set of shocks for the fronts (it looks like you can't replace the rears?) and Eibach makes a set of springs that lower the car about an inch.

    It gets my goat that a friends 15 year old BMW 6 series with 180K miles on it out-handles my car.

    Comments or experiences, anyone?
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    if you go to www.google.com and then go to images and type in oldsmobile aurora it will return hundreds of pictures
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    If you saw a 2002 Aurora 4.0 with the license plate "49OF51" would you know what it means? The only problem is on VA's heritage plate (the only nice looking one, it has the state bird on it) you can only put 6 characters and one space. Therefore it is bunched up a bit and the "o" in "OF" looks like a zero. I could put "49 OF51" but that looks worse. They have an autumn plate with some leaves on it which allows two spaces, but it doesn't look as nice.

    If you want to give me advice as to which plate looks best, go to:
    https://www.dmv.state.va.us/dmvnet/plate_purchase/select_plate.asp
    Keep in mind the car is "cherry" which is a darkish red color. The two plates I'm considering are "Other:Heritage - State Bird" and "Other:Scenic Autumn" The regular VA plate (cheaper) is "Other:Blue and White(standard)" but I think it looks like crap. It is too plain.

    As long as it isn't too cryptic and Olds fans can figure it out, then I will probably get it. (If you live in VA, don't steal it from me!)

    (If you don't know what it is, it refers to Oldsmobile's domination of the Indy Racing League with their Aurora engine. The Aurora engine won 49 of 51 races since it started in January 1997 until it's last race in October of this year.)
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    My 95 failed the emissions test. The CO (air/fuel) s/b 15 and read 22.5. The HC (unburn fuel) s/b .80 but read 1.13. Is this my O2 sensor and EGR VALVE?

    Greg
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Since you have the 95, I think you are OK to just order a high flow converter from Flowmaster. It might even add a HP or 2. You seemed to be looking for a replacement converter. They have one for a 95 car.
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