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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • rocket95rocket95 Member Posts: 13
    My 95 was manufactured in 8/94 and I haven't had a problem with the module yet
    (no notation in records by previous owner) I guess it depends on when they cut the
    change in on the line, It only applies to Rivieras built before VIN 4708381 but there
    is no cut in point indicated for the 95 Aurora. The number 43-50-07 is correct.

    I can't send a copy because I would be in violation of my subscription service
    agreement which does not permit me to copy and send their copyrighted data
    to another party.

    Doug
  • silotwosilotwo Member Posts: 27
    Hope this doesn't jinx me. I have a 95 that I bought used in July. It has 63,000 miles and the car is very sound. Service records show consistent oil changes at every 3k miles and the only documented service problem was with the power windows and door locks. The engine compartment is immaculate and it doesn't use any oil between changes.

    I must admit that reading so many horror stories has me concerned about the future. But I treat the 95 with care and hope it returns the favor.

    I've had my eye on a 98 and recently a 99, but am a little concerned about taking the risk. I wonder how much the way these cars are driven contributes to the service problems.

    I love the feel and the sound of the car under power, but I also know it wasn't meant to be a muscle car or a wanna be Porsche.

    That said, I am driving with my fingers crossed.

    Happy New Year.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Beachlover:

    I assume the problem you are concerned about is that the load-leveling suspension will freak out while on the lift (I am assuming you mean to lift the body, not drive onto a lift). I wouldn't think the suspension would care that the rear is too high... I mean, what is it going to do? Create a vacuum to suck the car lower?? Plus, if the car isn't turned on it wouldn't be a problem anyway.
    What does your owner's manual say about jacking up the car?

    Henry and Zinc:

    Sorry to hear about all of the trouble you have been having with your cars. It is a shame especially given the care you give them. Unfortunately it seems that cars that are on the technological edge tend to have technological problems later on. Once the new technology has been used a while it gets more robust. Part of the problem is that Oldsmobile hasn't gotten much support from GM (certainly not like Saturn does) so that helps explain the lack of change/refinement to the Aurora over it's lifecycle.

    I think it is a shame that Olds got the axe since they are starting to make more exciting products like the Aurora and Intrigue. However, it takes time for a company to turn around from the impression of bland cars like the 98 and 88 and the lame-o Cutlass/Malibu of the '90s (all perfectly nice, but nothing special). Olds wasn't given enough time, nor enough ability(money) to keep improving (and differentiating) their products. I think the Olds products are some of the nicest of the GM lineup. The Alero is certainly nicer and more stylish than the Grand Am, and I like the Intrigue more than the Grand Prix or Regal. I like the 3800 S/C of the other two, but the 3.5 is much smoother and the Intrigue is the sharpest looking. The Aurora is just great. I love the look better than the Caddies (although I love the unassuming old-folk sneakyness of the DTS) and I think the interior is far better. I love the use of wood around the center cluster. The caddies just use a strip across it which isn't very inspired. The Bravada is nice, but I like the more rugged 4wd system of the TrailBlazer/Envoy better. However, the Bravada is a great SUV for the road-going type.

    As an aside, the only thing that bothers me on my Aurora is the cheesy way the trunk opens. It flies up and bounces off some cheap rubber stoppers instead of using some gas struts or something. Plus, the trunk itself is so light and cheap feeling when you go to shut it. I also wish the cupholder weren't so awkward to reach (and that it didn't prevent the shifter from going into "1") but I guess that can't be helped. Has everyone with a 2001-2002 noticed the tiny little cubby on the left side of the steering wheel? I didn't notice it for like a month. It isn't big enough for sunglasses, but it is sort of neat.
    The only thing I don't like about other people in '01-02s is that (on the rare occasion that I see one) they tend to leave the rear foglights on all the time. It can be quite annoying to other drivers, and it looks like the brakelights are on or broken or something. However, they are helpful in foul weather. It is much easier to see there is a car in front of you when it has the rear foglights in addition to the dim glow of the taillights.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    A while back I think someone wanted to know what the "reengineered" northstars had done to update them. I ran across the something that said the valve train now has roller bearings, which the V6 (shortstar) had. This reduces the friction and would result in more horsepower, except that the compression was also reduced (with a piston redesign) so that the engines can use regular fuel (Cadillacs anyway). This means that the horsepower remains the same. There were a number of other changes too, but the roller bearings are the big performance change.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Can only be purchased with a black on black fully loaded 1999 Aurora.

    Move back to the Good Old days of OLDS. Wasn't 1995 a good year for you?

    Remember the times you had in 1995 by purchasing this special tribute to the year 1995 Aurora.

    ACT NOW!!!!
  • beachloverbeachlover Member Posts: 17
    rjs

    Thankyou for answering my post...was starting to lose faith in this forum.
    I did find out that the leveling control lets air in and out, but only for 4 1/2 to 7 1/2 minutes after the key is off.
    And you're right, if it goes up, the pressure decreases to the point that even though it wants to release air it has no pressure to.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I thought I answered your question a few postings back (i.e. the dealership never takes a fuse out. or disconnects anything, before putting the car on a lift).
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I guess you did answer it. However, I misread your answer and so posted my own. I thought you meant that you and your dealer had never put it on a lift. That might have helped to explain why your repairs took so long... :)
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My security light sometimes comes on when I am driving the car. Does this happen to anyone?? I think it means tht my alrm system is malfunctioning but I am not sure.

    By the way, i purchased the two vilume set of the manuals for the car. I think if you plan on keeping a Classic, you should invest in the service manuals and a small trust fund (say $6,000) to pay for any repairs as the car ages. You can also purchase an annuity that will pay you so many dollars a month. I am not an investment counselor, but I am sure most Aurora owners have that resource available to them.

    BY the WAY , whatever happened to our 18 YEAR OLD Classic owner that was looking at the Eclipse????

    THE CLASSIC is heaven on the highway when HE works, but . . . . . . . ..

    Another Question - POWER STEERING - for those of you who have 95's, do you hear the power stering unit whine whenever the wheel is turned to either of its extremes while the car is stationary???
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    My 98 aurora has a new water pump. I noticed that it was leaking. I didn't wait for a complete failure. Has 44000 miles.
  • beachloverbeachlover Member Posts: 17
    Sorry Henry, but didn't realize you were answering my post. It was such a generic answer that I thought it was refering to one other the other posters'.
    As to the power steering noise...I think all power steerings squeal when they touch the stops.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    fjk - that is really interesting about the roller bearings. What is the compression ratio on the new 4.0's? The old ones are 10.3:1.

    I just can't believe that after making an improvement like you mentioned, that they would detune the compression ratio just to run on 87.

    Is running on regular really more marketable than additional performance?? Yikes! I know I may be out of touch on this issue, but give me the flipping HP - I'll happily put in the premium. I'll bet that's why the torque curve is not as "flat" too.

    What do you other guys think? Would you rather have 10 more HP and torque (maybe it would be more - who knows) or the regular unleaded gas?

    Is Lexus running their 4.3 V8 VVT engine on premium or regular?

    Just did a lot of highway driving for the new years fun. The Aurora is the greatest highway cruiser. Total comfort all the way. The seats are the best. Yeah Henry you are right - that thing will win you over on a road trip every time.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I believe (but am not positive) that the compression ratio is still 10.3:1 The Northstar is now 10.0:1. The new Aurora V-8 has virtually no parts in common with the 1995-99 4.0. In addition to the roller followers, the engine has revised combustion chambers and cylinder head ports, larger intake valves and smaller exhaust valves, and a center-feed intake system for a more uniform intake path to each cylinder. Also, the engine has coil-on-plug ignition and an air-pump.

    As far as making an engine able to run on 87, if nothing else it should improve the reliability of the engine. If you or someone else accidentally put in regular, or if the premium was of poor quality, the engines ability to handle this would be a good thing. Turning back the timing on an engine designed to only run on premium won't necessarily be enough to stop knocking. Plus, an engine doesn't necessarily have to give up compression to run on lower-grade gasoline. The shape of the combustion chamber, and the flow into it can make a large difference. Lastly, the new Aurora V-8 does get a performance benefit from running premium (premium is recommended in the owner's manual, but it mentions that the car will run safely with regular. It doesn't suggest regular if you want performance or if you are towing.)

    You guys mention Lexus a lot. The Lexus 4.3 does require premium (with a 10.5:1 compression ratio) and only makes 40 more hp than the Aurora. It is 7.5% larger (displacement) than the Aurora. If the Aurora were 7.5% larger and made 7.5% more power, it would crank out about 270 hp. So it isn't that large a difference. Plus, it costs about $20,000 more. I would imagine an engine replacement would be a lot more than an Aurora too (I assume even some Lexus owners buy their car to keep.) The Lexus that would compare to the Aurora would be the ES300. I think you would find the Aurora to be superior to this car. Plus, the ES doesn't even have the option of a V-8.

    The 2002 Corvette Z06 makes 405hp, the same as the 1995 ZR-1. The Z06 engine is slightly smaller, has a lower compression ratio (10.5:1 whereas the ZR-1 was about 11.1:1) doesn't use dual intake runners, or dual injectors, or dual overhead cams, yet it makes as much HP and more torque than the super-high-tech ZR-1. The reason for this is advances in the design of things like combustion chambers and intake ports and valves and the swirling in the chamber and a million other little things. It isn't as simple as "they are both 5.7 liters, but one has an 11.1:1 compression and DOHC and variable intake size". I know it seems like that should be straight-forward, but oftentimes it isn't.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    According to gm's media online info for the aurora, the compression is still 10.3 and premium (92 octane) is recommended. I think that the changes in design contributed to the shift in the torque curve. The knock sensor will prevent damage from low octane fuel.

    My service manager said that some people with failed water pumps tried to drive home (more than a hundred miles) and wiped out the engines. Also said the water pumps fail anywhere from around 25000 miles to never.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I can always count on you to give us the math behind the numbers.

    How are you on networking 3 computers running windows XP, windows 95 and windows Me? I don't want to buy upgraded software.

    Henri
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Thanks guys - I guess nothing is straightforward with these engines and their design. It's all very interesting. Straight line comparisons just don't work sometimes - they are amazingly complex I guess.

    rjs - I agree 189% about the ES300 comparison. No comparison really. I've driven one several times for extended highway drives + some city. Great car, nicely appointed, and solid, but after being in an Aurora, the ES does seem like a glorified Camry. There was no headroom in the back and it was a bit cramped overall for a "luxury sedan". Apples and oranges really. Sorry if this ticks off anybody lurking who is proud of their "L". Just be happy - they are indeed incredible cars.

    I'd even go so far as to say the Aurora stands up very well against the bigger 400's and even 430's when considering the overall package and especially the price.
  • rocket95rocket95 Member Posts: 13
    Henry

    I haven't had problem yet--try cleaning your Pass-key II and/or using a
    spare Pass-key II. Pass -key II Decoder Module may not be reading
    valid code. Also could be intermittent or poor connection in Pass-key II
    Decoder Module connector.
  • miker000miker000 Member Posts: 2
    I am a new participant in Town Hall .... so I apologize if my question is old news. I have a 2001 Aurora that I purchased new in May 2000. I like the styling, interior comfort, and the balance between handling and ride (although I would like it to be a bit firmer). However, the quality has been extremely disappointing. I really do not consider myself to be overly demanding. My prior car was a 97 Grand Prix that operated flawlessly for 60,000 miles.

    I have had numerous small problems with my Aurora - none of which has prevented use of the car, however the quantity has been distressing. The stability control system failed, the computer display has delivered countless false messages (door's ajar, low oil pressure, low tire pressure , etc...). At least once a month the radio and/or computer display fail to operate at all. Another time, the displays converted themselves to metric (the method to do this manually makes it unlikely that it could have been accidental on my part). The service manager told me "with all that computer stuff you have to expect some bugs". I have been in the computer software field for many years and my clients would never accept that answer. On another occasion it sucked documents from the glove compartment into the ventilation system. The service manager said I really should not put anything in the glove box. (????)

    The most distressing problem is intermittent rattles. I am sure my dealer would fix them if I could pinpoint them, however the rattles come and go and even change locations. I have NEVER experienced anything like this.

    Has anyone else experienced similar problems? Did you ever find a solution?

    I really want to like this car (especially since the resale value is poor, however my patience is running out.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    My 98, which is a first generation, has not done anything like what you describe. You must have one of the first off the assembly line for the second generation model though. Your service manager does not sound like a good one. Is there another dealer you could try?
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    Sounds like you need a new servive manager. Seriously, your electrical ghosts (and possibly many of the rattles) point to a poorly installed or originally defective major wiring harness. The glove box paper sucking issue (only on early 2001 Auroras like yours) was resolved by a rolling change (before my 2001 was built in JUL 2000) and addressed in a TSB that included a fix kit. The 2002 glove box has been redesigned to avoid the problem without the kludge fix (which worked well, but surely cost more).

    With regard to rattles, I have found that most phantom rattles come from wires or control cables that have been poorly installed, broken during installation, or just poorly designed. I know it is drastic, but what I have done (on our 1999 Silhouette van, now gone) was just start looking behind every panel for hold down clips that were never pushed into place, were broken during or after assembly, or prudent places to apply sticky foam or duct tape. Rattles really annoy me too, and I am thankfull that my 2002 Aurora and our 2002 Silhouette are without any so far.

    I know that from my shopping experience originally on the 2001 Aurora that there were a lot of build quality issues on early production models, but these are things that a resposible dealer should expend dilligent effort to fix under warranty.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Well said Hardesty. I think I would look for another service department as well. You might consider informing Oldsmobile of the crummy service you have been recieving. They would probably be interested in knowing that. There is some info in the back of your owners manual that will tell you how to go about bringing your problems with your dealership to Oldsmobile's attention.

    I can't believe the guy told you not to put anythiing into your glovebox, as if the very idea was absurd.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs - My thoughts exactly. I've had great experiences at GM sevice departments. Stories like that actually make me mad. A service department like that is hurting GM. I'd be calling GM and reporting that in some way. Perhaps that jerk gets away with it 4 out 5 times and figures it is worth it to operate with no integrity.

    I guess there is a lot to be said for first year cars. I'm sure glad we have a 2001 Impala and not a 2000. Lots of first year issues there too.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    My 95 Riviera was #3000 (about) off the assembly line and did not cause me any grief. The supercharge sucked in the gasket which caused the service department some grief, as they finally had to ask GM for help in fixing it. Perhaps the Riv I should have gotten (#600 or so) would have been a different story, but they took that one for "evaluation" and reran the order.
  • susy1susy1 Member Posts: 4
    Where did GM hide the paint code on my 95 classic? Its color is 'light gray metallic' but I need a WA number to order some touch-up paint.
  • ewtewt Member Posts: 127
    The parts guy ran out and looked at a sticker on the spare tire cover on my 96.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Yep it is in the trunk for the 95's.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    In 95 it was actually stuck on the inside of the pass side 1/4 panel (in the trunk), but to get to it you need to removed the trunk lining.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Its also in the parts department of an Oldsmobile dealership.
    (smile)
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    If you have not done this already, I recommend that you get the stats for your car. The dealer can do an inqury that will tell you everything about your car (what is on it, the paint code, the day it was built, the plant it was built at, etc . . .). If you are going to keep your classic, it would be good information to have.

    Just a thought.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Its also in the parts department of an Oldsmobile dealership.
    (smile)
  • cehsr8033cehsr8033 Member Posts: 11
    I have just purchased a 2001 4.0, a program car with 9100 miles and thought I would join you folks as my decision to purchase was partially influenced by the discussions I followed on this board. I though you might benefit from my experience as a new buyer.
    I originally was going to buy either a Lexus LS 400 (used prob 1998) or a similar aged 740iL but after years of not worrying about it, became leery of a rear wheeled car--I live in Idaho and this winter has been a bit more snowy than usual and tho I drove a rear wheel for years with no problems, I still like the idea of having those heavy front wheels pulling than the light rear ones pushing. I considered a 2001 DeVille but to get one with similar equipment I was looking at $8000 more with no better return on my money. I tend to keep my cars a long time, if I like them, so mileage and residual are not a consideration.
    I rented a new deville in the spring and while a nice, quiet car, it was boring--did like the room.
    My Aurora is a bit tight up front and the trunk is limited--two golf bags and I am cramming the clothing into corners--but, considering the last car was a GMC pickup with shell, I think it unfair to compare the Aurora--getting in and out of a Pickup is much easier than a low sedan.
    My experience has been positive so far--I have driven about 1500 miles--one 1000 mile trip to play golf in Nevada and the car was great. It is quiet, with just a bit of tire rumble on some pavements, getting used to the options--found the automatic sound control on the radio had to be turned off because it was either too loud or too soft--couldn't get it right until I found and turned off.
    Only other problem is with intermittant wipers--they do not work with the stalk control! I discovered by accident, hitting a bump that there was a connection so I looked at the rain sense device behind the rearview--when I pressed the triangular box, the intermittant wipers worked for about two cycles and stops--car is going in shop next week. All else seems ok and I am trying to program all the options to my preference-I do not like the automatic door lock feature.
    I would like the seat to move backward a bit but always forget that in a truck the knee position is always different and does fit me better.
    Driving the car on the road is a real pleasure, it goes about its business very competantly and is comfortable. I was in light fog coming back from my trip and found the fog lights to be surprisingly effective--I have never had them on other cars and these gave me enough illumination to get on down the road at highway speed.
    The car came with three Michelins and one Perrelli on the left rear! The dealership shows that a wheel was replaced at 9 miles and I assume the off tire came on then--I have asked them to replace with a Michelin as this difference should have been noticed at the pre-sale check--I can't worry about any noise and traction difference the mixed tread will be giving me.
    One feature in owning a new Aurora that I really like is that I don't see myself coming down the street every five minutes--in the month I have owned the car, I have seen two others, one on the interstate and a neat maroon one here in town that is a 3.5. I also was somewhat worried about my customer's reactions to a Lexus, BMW, and Caddy, they can be a bit touchy about luxury cars since they are paying the freight. The Aurora gave me the V8, the luxury, the size, the performance, and a bit of a mystery with its European look. The more I drive it, the more I am satisfied--wish I could get under and outfrom the wheel a bit easier but what, other than our Mothers and children, are perfect?
    I will stay in touch and hope I haven't bored you all with the narrative. Since I am a new owner to both the Aurora and Oldsmobile, I thought my experiences would be enlightening. Thanks for your ears.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Are you tilting the tilt steering wheel up before you get out of the car? That makes getting in and out easier.
  • cehsr8033cehsr8033 Member Posts: 11
    fjk, I was perhaps a bit to harsh on getting in and out of the car. As you know, the car has the exit button that positions the seat and wheel for easy exit. My problem is that I am used to the height of my pickup and after years of stepping out of a truck, any sedan is going to be a chore.
    The Aurora is a bit snug for a luxury sedan but I am sure I will get used to it--especially after I get past the static electricity in the headliner that gets my hair all excited--I wasn't making a criticism of the car--just my age and lack of agility.

    t
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    You would have liked getting in and out of the 84-?? Corvette's then.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    To the person that was modifying their air cleaner to remove the restrictions. I have a '95 and a '97 Aurora, my '95 does not have the plastic insert in the top half of the air cleaner like the '97 does. The bottom half is the same in both cars, it appears there would be some restriction because the inlet holes in the bottom half of the air cleaner are small.

    I enjoy reading all the stories on the "classic". I think with all the accessories that are on the cars they will have more problems. I've been use to driving cars with ps,pb,pw,pl,auto and a/c. When you add all the other goodies the Aurora has I'm sure there is more to go wrong.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    cwiley - I'm one of the air box guys. Is the 95 top part look just like the 97 and only differs by not having a liner?? I hope you got the K&N to go with it. They work.

    I sent pictures to caddyinfo.com of the mods and hopefully they will be added to the page I have there about the Aurora dyno tests.

    Xtreme Motor Sports x-m-s.com said they will be developing a replacement induction system for the northstar and hopes to have something this spring. I hope to get it when it is done and test fit it to the Aurora. They plan to include a heat shield so as to not pull hot air from the engine compartment. I think such a system will add at least a few more peak HP at the wheels over what my mods have done. The air box mods don't add much HP or torque past 5200 +/-. My theory is that it adds HP and torque at "lower" rpms, but after 5200 or so, that hard 90 out of the box and other design inefficacies become major limiting factors on air flow. I hope xms does this.

    Question - how does the drag coefficient on the Aurora compare to other cars? Is it a lot better than an STS? The car sure looks much more aerodynamic than most anything on the road, but you never know just by looking.

    Top speed is not my thing, but is interesting to consider. At the high speeds, the drag is every bit as important as HP.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    garnes---The top part of the '95 appears to be identical to the '97 except for not having the liner. The '95 has the same electrical hook-up as the '97.

    No, I haven't tried the K&N filter. I've looked for them at the auto store, they didn't have any for the Aurora. I'll try another store next time. Any suggestion on which store???
  • msjokermsjoker Member Posts: 1
    Hello all! This may have been covered b4(sorry, 2000+ posts were just too many!) and I'm probably dealing with a slightly biased audience. *smile*
    In any case, here's the scenario. I've fallen for
    a '95 listed at a local dealer, sight unseen. It just sounds great! It has the tape, CD, leather, power, etc. And great Ceaser's ghost, that's standard! My in=house auto "guru" thinks the mileage is waay too high for a '95...111 thousand and some change. Price...$5850, of course not counting some haggling/negotiating.
    My car was old like blue Wonder bread, and I had a fender bender that's not worth repair. For the record, it's an '85 Plymouth Gran Fury that I understand is on it's 3rd odometer revolution. It also had a hit or miss (mostly hit...forcefully)am/fm radio.
    Imagine my awe when I read this car's description. I've been wanting something for the daily short commute, that's a good runner for somewhat frequent road trips. (See: not a one-way tank like my old car)We have a toddler, so a 4-door was much more convenient for me than Pop's 2-door('89 Ciera or Calais?) Yet, I have a longing for a gorgeous, sporty car. (sigh..Firebird..grrr) Yet again, after handling the Gran, I'm leery of a light-in-the-butt car in wintry conditions. I've been thinking about the '95 constantly!
    My dilemma: Is it not worth taking the hit on the extra miles? The price sounds reasonable to me, but once I spring for this new car, frequent repairs would be a travesty. I've heard you all mention there being small kinks and bugs in the car and I'm not sure it's worth the headache and especially the expense. Also, being the 1st year(right?), am I opening myself up even more to inevitable problems. Maybe the previous owner already did everything?
    Any advice, especially in-depth, would be appreciated! Thanks AuROAReans!
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I have the 95 and I can not honestly recommend it at that price. The milage is high and the 95's can be tempermental. There are toomany maintenance issues or a 95 at that milage. You should try ebay where a 95 can go for as little as $3,900. If you want a Classis, I would recommend the 98 or 99.

    IMHO
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I don't believe it but warranty gold renewed my contract for another two years or 25,000 miles. Cost per year is $750.00.

    Any bets on whether the repairs will NOT exceed $750 a year???
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Do you guys have an alrm button underneath the dashbord? My security system had been acting up. However, ever since I pressed the button under the dash everything is working perfectly.

    I finally tried the button after I came back tot he car and the security light was on and I could not start the car. Just a little piece of information if you ever have to use it.

    Henri
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    cwiley1 - you can get a K&N for the Aurora at Auto Zone or anyplace that carries them. You will have to order it. It is about $73 from the zone. K&N only "lists" it for a 1997 because that is the only year Aurora they tested. But I've called the dealer and the part number for the air box on 96 through 99 is the same I believe. The 95 is different - probably for the reasons you mention. I'm not sure about the filter fitting a 95. It should as long as the outer box all fits and seats the same. I have one on my 98. It comes with a gasket to fit on the top part of the box.

    The filter adds about 7 peak HP and 4 peak torque at the wheels (about 9 HP and 5 torque at the engine). I've dyno'd it. You won't feel much unless you open up the air box. The K&N doesn't add much until 5200 rpm. Below 5200 it adds 1 to 3 HP at the wheels. Conversely, the box modifications help the most below 5200. When you add them together it actually makes a difference that you can feel a bit.

    Hope that helps. If you want more HP mods just post something. There is more you can do.

    MsJoker - Henry is right. The Aurora or any car this technical can get you really good at the high miles. The early ones seem to have a few more issues. There is a glut of used cars on the market from all the new car incentives. Edmunds has a good used car customized price guide. Try to get the VIN number and run it through car fax. Also call Oldsmobile with the number and they can give you the warranty history of the car. That may help you know if the car has had chronic problems. Admittedly, the car can lure you in with the good looks, but be careful.

    Anybody have any info on the Aurora's drag coeficient compared to other cars?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    As far as I can tell, the Cd for the 2001 Aurora is .32. I don't know what it was for the 95-99 Aurora.

    If you are looking for K&N filters (or just about any other part from a somewhat major aftermarket manufacturer) then I would try ordering it from Summit Racing Equipment at www.summitracing.com. They have always had the lowest prices when I bought parts for my Corvette, and they can get just about anything. The filter for the 95-97 Aurora is part# 33-2086 and you can find it if you search for it by manufacturer. It is listed at $52. For you 2001-2 owners, the K&N filter is part# 33-2063-1 and is $40. These part numbers are from K&N's site. Interestingly, both filters seem to have a lot of V-6 applications as well. I wonder how well the V-8 breathes through a paper filter that is used for V-6's.

    While searching for info on the Cd, I noticed some performance figures on the 3.5 Aurora that I thought were interesting. They are close in 0-60 times (although not so close above 60) yet the 3.5 has taller transmission gearing in the first three gears, plus a taller final drive ratio (3.29 compared to 3.71 for the 4.0), not to mention it is missing two cylinders. This is an impressive testament to the 3.5's broad power. I hope the engine doesn't disappear from GM next year. This year is the last for the Intrigue and the 3.5 Aurora (the 4.0 will make it to 2003). I much prefer the V-8, but it will be a shame if this powerful, efficient, and smooth V-6 vanishes...
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs - yep, that's the part number and man is that a lot cheaper. I really overpaid.

    How does that .32 compare to other cars? I have no reference for this stuff, but it is interesting.

    You are right, the V6 torque curve looks really flat in the brochure with a high percentage of peak torque all over the rpm range. It's an impressive motor, but I think it is leaving with Olds.

    As for gearing, I see your perspective very well. Car & Driver reviewed a pontiac somthing-or-other with the Toyota 1.8 in it. It's really quick but utilizes a 4.43 final drive (same as transaxle - right?) Anyway, this 2800+ pound car gets 2 mpg better mileage than my 98 Aurora and the city difference is not much better. My reaction was "so what, they geared the snot out of the thing for the quickness and now you got a compact/subcompact that is hardly more economical than my highway cruiser that weighs 1,100 pounds more" Is that really engineering?? Sacrificing one operational atribute (mileage) to make a bunch of acceleration-only minded editors happy is no accomplishment.

    You are right, the 3.5 does everything very well for what it is.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    The 3.5 V6 is a northstar engine. The northstars are all in the process of being replaced by new designs. The V6 is to be replaced by a new 60 degree line from 2.8 to 3.8 liters. Some turbocharged. September issue of Motor Trend had a few details. This has not been announced, but Ron Zarrella did confirm the intent. Lutz hasn't cancelled them yet.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    msjoker:
    Looking at the Kelly Blue Book website (www.kbb.com) it sounds like the price is pretty fair. BUT, I would have to agree with Henry that it's an awful lot of money for a car with 111K -- especially a model with a questionable reliability record. If you poke around a bit you should be able to find one with lots less mileage for not too much more. I bought my 95 in August with only 60K on it for $9000.
    My advice is: if you can afford to pay a few $1000 more, look around for a newer or lower mileage Aurora.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My Physicians at Norman Gale Olds, Buick, Pontiac (Cedar Knolls, New Jersey) looked the car over to see if it had the new harness discussed in the 9/94 TSB. My car has a build date of 12-1-1994 and it has the upgraded harness.

    Thank you for the information.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    garnes--The '95 and '97 stock air filters are the same, so the K&N filters are probably the same. What year air cleaner are you trying to modify? Would the restriction in the '97 air cleaner make any difference? I can't tell much difference, the '95 seems to have more pep, maybe because it has more miles and is loosened up.

    rjs200240--Thanks for the K&N filter part#. I am going to check on them.

    msjoker--I have had less problems with my '95 than with my '97. I don't think I would own an Aurora without the extended warranty. I just purchased the extended warranty by "WARRANTYBYNET, INC". I have 86k miles on it, and every time it goes into the Olds shop it always comes to more than $300. The factory warranty and the 1st extended warranty paid for itself many times over. I haven't had to use this last extended warranty yet.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    cwiley1 - Mine is a 98. I really don't know what the inside of the 95 air box looks like but it would be interesting to compare the difference. If you can see most/all of the air filter surface when looking through the clean air outlet on the 95, then it may be like the newer air box with the liner removed. When I was goofing around on the dyno, I did compare the difference in performance with the stock top part and the modified top (always using the modified bottom). The opened up top seemed to add about 2 to 3 HP at the wheels through the curve. You won't feel that. You really have to modify the whole box and use the K&N to feel a little something. When you do it all, there is as much as +10 HP and +10 torque at the wheels in certain parts of the power curve - but not at the peak. You can feel that extra kick when you are climbing up the rpms.

    Maybe the difference you feel is that the 95 has the 3.71 "autobahn" transaxle, and the 97 has the 3.48.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Well, I really love this Aurora after 9 months - just as much as the day I got it. I would really like to keep it long term. After reading the discussion on repairs and warranties, I'm wondering. I still have about 1 year of the factory warranty.

    Warranty by net seemed to quote some reasonable prices. Are they reputable? Henry - how does your warranty gold price compare to warranty by net?? Do they ever hassle you??

    I know this subject has been discussed a lot in the past, but I'm hoping that you guys can make a suggestion and/or issue any warnings about certain companies.
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