Oldsmobile Aurora

garnes · February 2002

Blk97 - The first graph shows the power gain from adding just the K&N vs a clean paper filter. The air box was stock for those two runs. It shows about +6 1/2 or 7 HP at the high RPM's, and 1 to 3 HP in the 4,000's.

The second graph shows the power gain just from the modified air box (I think that is the one you are puzzled by). Both runs on the second graph used a K&N, the only difference was the air box. It's stock vs modified.

On the second graph you are right. No HP past 5,800 or whatever (no added torque either). It is very interesting to say the least. Evidently, at the higher RPM's the air flow characteristics of the modified air box are no better than stock. Therefore the better box gives you no added peak HP but still adds more peak torque down in the 4,000's.

That's what sent me grinding away all those inner flanges and air flow obstructions inside the box after the initial modifications. But the dyno proved that the added effort did not matter.

My theory is that the flow characteristics of the modified box are such that they cause turbulence at the extreme high end that negates any added air flow so the flow equalizes back to stock.

HOWEVER, the modified air box does add more HP going up the curve. It actually adds a little more power than the K&N in the 4,000's, and between 4,600 and 4,850 or 4,900, it adds as much as perhaps 8 HP. It changes the shape of the curve.

Adding the two is really nice. Adding the granatelli MAF seems to give even more.

Anyway - DON'T bother with all the intricate extra cutting like I did. Just open the bottom hole to match the bottom hole in the metal, and remove the top liner. That's it. You will have 99.9 % of what I got from all the extra work.

The 95 air box is a little different, and therefore costs more I guess. I'd bet a 96-99 box would fit a 95 though.

Final note - I need to call extreme motor sports about that northstar cold air induction again. I hope they do this. Maybe it will fit an Aurora. The one thing the air box mod doesn't help with is that hard 90 out of the top. That thing is a strangler I bet. A truly designed performance induction would perhaps add a few more HP on top of the box mods. Maybe more.

Let me know if this clears things up.

jephjeph · February 2002

So yes, I did de-badge it. So far I've just removed the "Oldsmobile" logo, and I'm plotting the remainder.

I was originally thinking of moving the 4.0 logo to the top right corner, but while easy to remove, I don't think it'd be easy to re-attach.

I used the dental floss to "cut" the foamy part, and then removed the remaining half with my fingernail. After applying tar remover, it looked perfect.

Now to just get the grease pen marks off my tail lights as it came from the dealer that way... (!)

I also Zaino'd my seats with leather in a bottle. The seats are now softer and protected. Zaino is the best.

jephjeph · February 2002

Anybody know what the size and impedance of the stock speakers are?

These suckers aren't long for this world, I'm sure.

Also, what's the output of the nav radio?

blk97aurora · February 2002

I posted a similar message to the "Care & Maintenance" discussion a week ago. So far only one response (thank you rjs200240). C&M has not seen much action. I plan to post several other maintenance-related messages in the next few days; maybe we can get C&M rolling.

When I started looking for the right replacement spark plug for my '97, I was surprised to find four answers for AC spark plug number and two answers for spark plug gap. Here's what I found:

owner manual AC 41-929 0.050
service manual AC 41-900 0.050
parts microfiche AC 41-950 ----
emissions label ----- 0.060
#4 cylinder AC 41-947 0.053

I think the emissions label is most likely to be accurate. Unfortunately it does not specify the plug number. My car has 73 000 miles and likely has the original plugs; I bought it at 37 000 miles. So it looks like the plugs may have started with 0.050 gap.

Do any of you know the correct spark plug to use? Also, does anyone know how to decode the AC numbers (heat range, tip projection, etc.)? I have searched the web with no worthwhile results.

rocket95 · February 2002

blk97aurora

Can't help much on a 97--I have a 95:

The recommendation for the 95 was changed from the AC 900 to the AC929.
The AC 929 with a ribless insulator was recommended for better boot
retention. The spec for the 95 calls for a .050 (1.27mm) gap and a torque
of 11 lbs.--a recommendation to use a wire gage (for more accurate results).

I changed to AC Rapid Fire plugs for my Buick--will have to check to determine
if they are available for and/or recommended for use in the Aurora.(Read a
note which cautioned against using plugs with a heat range not recommended for my
particular engine--indicated that severe engine damage could result.)

shucknet · February 2002

I'm pretty sure Olds designed the 4.0 engine so they would have a racing engine in a "real" car platform to try to connect racing to their regualr cars. I'm almost positive the 4.0 size was an IRL requirement, so my guess is that the difference in size has something to do with that.

shucknet · February 2002

Hey - in case you didn't get my e-mail, my addy is ryan@shucknet.com - really interested in the rotors.

fredvh · February 2002

I am new to this board but I need some information from Oldsmobile Aurora or Intrigue owners of late model years. I am considering these two along with Lexus ES300, Buick Regal, Acura TL, Infiniti, and Toyota Camry. I have owned imports in the past and am very leary of going back to American cars because of the question of dependability. I would like some imput from late model Aurora owners(new style) and Intrigue owners concerning the dependability or lack-there-of in their cars. I would like gas mileage figures concerning the 3.5l engine. I also would like to know what the RPM figure is on the 3.5l engine at 70mph. I have also heard that one cannot change the battery without taking several other things apart first. Is this true?

jephjeph · February 2002

The battery is in the back seat. Removal is pretty easy, at least I think so.

I can't answer the rest of your questions; I've got a 4.0!

re: dependability: it's got a 5 year, 60k warranty. I think that's excellent!

I haven't had enough cars to ever experience a bad GM car.

88 Buick LeSabre, 220k miles, only added oil & gas & tires, + regular tuneups.
98 Trans Am, 64k miles, rear differential (warranty),
02 Oldsmobile Aurora: nothing yet! (knock on wood)

rjs200240 · February 2002

That is interesting about the 4.0 size. However, Olds didn't get involved in IRL until 1997. The Aurora V-8 did compete in IMSA before IRL, but I'm not sure when, or what the engine requirements were for that. Also, the current IRL engine size limit is 3.5 liters, and they didn't downsize the passenger car version of it. I think I would subscribe to the theory that they didn't want to upstage Cadillac, and possibly that it was a little cheaper to produce.

Fredvh: You might check out posts in the 2000-2010 area and the 2200-2210 area. You will find some comparo info that has already been tossed around. As far as the battery, it is under the rear seat. However, how often do you plan on changing it? Don't know about the 3.5 cruising rpms because I have a 4.0. Same goes for mileage. I want to say it is around 2000 rpms at about 60-65 mph for the 4.0, and I can easily get 20 mpg in city-type driving if I am easy on it. Otherwise about 17-18 when I drive enthusiastically. I don't do much highway driving, but I can get about 26+ while on the highway. Driving style makes a difference, though. The 4.0 and 3.5 have different final-drive ratios, but they also have different transmissions.

Personally I think the Aurora smokes the ES300 for luxury and performance for the buck. And I think the ES and Camry are pretty unattractive. I can't get over the hideous gauges in the Camry. I don't care much for the wood coloring in the ES. The Camry has gauges inside gauges, so it is possible for needles to intersect. What the heck were they thinking?? The Regal GS is really an incredible performer. My dad has a 97 and I have raced him in my 87 Corvette a few times. It was quite close. That Regal can lay down a pretty serious rubber patch too. However, I think the Intrigue is a bit more refined and I like the styling a bit better (if only the spoiler and chrome wheels weren't included on the GLS).

hammen2 · February 2002

If you're going to be reselling or trading in the car within the next 5 years, I'd avoid Olds entirely - resale values are pretty low (to the point where most leasing companies won't even touch an Olds - not that I'm a big fan of leasing, at least not for me).

The new Aurora (especially later 2001 and all 2002) seems to be relatively defect-free. Earlier Intrigues had problems with steering/brakes, but GM, as they always do, fixes the bugs (right before they kill the car - see the Fiero). There's still an alternator issue (flickering lights - see the Intrigue board).

The 3.5 has been out since the middle of the '99 model year, with no major recall or quality issues. Of course, it won't be made after the '02 model year, meaning the Intrigue and the Aurora 3.5 will end production as well (the Aurora 4.0 is supposed to soldier on for another year, but, with sales as low as they are, GM may axe the whole thing earlier than planned).

Just because something won't be made any longer isn't a reason not to buy it (can't buy a 2000 Camry any longer, can you? Doesn't mean it's not a bad car, or that parts aren't available). The pricing (relative to the Camry/ES300) and warranty are excellent, and, again, if you're going to keep this car for 5+ years, and don't have high resale expectations, you shouldn't pass up an Olds.

Hope this helps,

--Robert
(98 Aurora Classic black/black/chromes/Autobahn/Bose :-)

rocket3_50 · February 2002

1. Brilliant silver 2001 Aurora with 19,000 miles and 3.5 liter V-6 engine.

2. I just completed a 2300 mile round trip to south Florida over a two week span. 750 miles down, 800 miles around town, 750 miles back. Total fuel efficiency of 24.5 mpg on 87 octane from all different brands of gasoline. Highway speeds of 60 mph - 78 mph depending on posted limits. Occasional passing speeds of 80+ mph without any problem. Air conditioner on for almost the entire trip. Tire pressure at recommended 30 psig.

3. Maintenance has included switch to synthetic oil around 1500 miles, regular oil changes every 7500 miles, and tire rotation. Problems so far include an occasional low moan from the power steering unit (dealer technician can reproduce, but doesn't know what it is, and advises that unit is within spec, and doesn't consider it a safety hazard - so, I'm not worried), and one burned out rear fog lamp, which I hope to get changed under warranty. I went over the car with a fine tooth comb, and found no delivered defects - paint almost perfect, fit and finish very good, all systems operating per the owner's manual. Oh, yes, one minor delivered defect - the plastic window for the DIC (Drivers Information Center) at the top of the center stack has a few bubbles in it - - not noticeable except to a man in love with his car.

4. Personal opinion - - I love my car! Not one minute of buyer's remorse. Looked at the Lincoln LS and the Buick LeSabre and the Pontiac Bonneville. All good cars, but this one seemed to fit me the best for now. I'd buy another one tomorrow if I could afford it. (Wife might have a problem with me having two big boy toys at once.)

Ken

garnes · February 2002

FREDVH - one thing to consider is the growing realization that Toyota/Lexus apparently has a serious design issue that can contribute to sludge formation in the engine. Here is a link to the story. I don't know if this issue concerns brand new stuff on the lot right now.

http://www.autonews.com/article.cms?articleId=38302

The only thing I'd add to the story is that while a car may not be showing any signs of being affected by sludge, it may still have some lesser amount of accumulation which is enough to turn me off.

If you do go Toyota/Lexus, I'd use synthetic oil ALL the time to be safe.

garnes · February 2002

Can any of you tell me the issue with premium fuel and the possible formation of deposits due to its use in the older Northstar engines? I've seen this issue on Cadillac boards. I've called Caddy dealers and they say they have not heard of this. Would/could this affect the older 4.0?? If so, wouldn't using a fuel injector cleaner periodically prevent this on parts that are exposed to the fuel like the injectors and valves?

Also - I'm considering having the fuel injectors, throttle body, etc cleaned by the local GM dealer with some special product they have. I can't remember the name of the product.

Is this OK?? Or am I just as well off regularly using fuel injector cleaners (every 3,000 to 5,000 miles) and then just having the throttle body butterfly separately cleaned??

Is there something better or special about what the dealer does????

I'm anticipating an oil change being needed shortly after they would do this if a lot of debris were released into the engine.

What do you think???

rjs200240 · February 2002

Rocket3_50: Are the bubbles on the DIC there because there is a protective plastic sheet on it? I believe the display (as are most LCDs) is glass, not plastic. You might see if the protectant sheet just needs to be removed (like when you buy a watch or a clock).

Garnes: I've never heard of premium fuel leaving more deposits. It usually has more detergents in it to combat deposits. This is part of why it costs more. If you use regular fuel, then you might need injector cleaner. As far as cleaning the throttle body, you can do that yourself with throttle-body cleaner. All the crud will either run out the front of the throttle body (some newspaper under the mouth will catch ith, unless you plan on running the engine while using the cleaner) or will get burned off in the engine after you reassemble it and start the engine up. It will also help clean out the intake manifold. However, it mainly keeps the throttle body from gumming up and sticking. I doubt enough crud builds up to affect airflow at all. The crud is like a thin layer on the walls of everything. It isn't thick or chunky or anything. More like a haze. There are some injector cleaners that involve hooking up a pressurized canister to the fuel line. This might work better than a fuel additive, but that doesn't mean that is what the dealer will do.

I would ask what exactly they will do first. If they don't do anything special, then just do it yourself. Cleaning the throttle body is a breeze, and you can make sure you get everything off. You might try gently brushing it with a toothbrush or something if it is real dirty.

If you use premium fuel, I wouldn't worry about using injector cleaner all that often. I would be a bit worried about what that stuff does to an engine when used so often. Gasoline has certain standards to be approved by the auto makers association (can't remember the exact name) while those additives don't have to meet anything except the requirement to catch a person's eye in the store, and have claim enough miracles to get you to buy it. It isn't that I don't think some of them do what they say, but I wouldn't use one every 3,000 miles in my car...

Fredvh: We could probably be more helpful if you explained what some of the priorities are for you. What do you want the car to do most? Be fun? fast? luxurious? look nice? impress people? be cheap? haul people? No car can be everything to everyone, so we could help your decision with some more facts. The Aurora drives great. The engine performs, and the sound is awesome. The interior is the best I've seen. However, the Intrigue (and other cars) is more sensible because it is cheaper, and can be had with many of the same features like stability control and heated seats and such, plus it is cheaper and has more trunk space, fold-down rear seats, and similar interior room (slightly less). What are you looking for?

Henry · February 2002

I have not had any problems with my car lately. Maybe the 60,000 mile mini maintenace explosion is over.

Although, I still have trouble believing that there are only two of us losing paint from the pastic steering wheel buttons and housing. Since both of us are 95 Classics, are you guys telling me it is limited to that year?

rjs200240 · February 2002

Henry, maybe the 96 guys will have that problem next year, and 97's the year after that...

matrixfrog · February 2002

Have any of you guys noticed a significant power increase in 3rd gear? In my old Dodge Avenger it would not make a difference until it went to shift into OD but with my car I noticed that its different. On your way home put your aurora in 3rd in the city and see what you think.

gisom · February 2002

Henry, I too have a 95 and the paint is chipping off the top left button. That makes 3 of us.

musclecar97 · February 2002

If you get Armour All or other cleaners on the paint on the buttons it will wear off. I had that happen to another GM car I had. Unless you find a junked car somewhere or want to pay the dealer for a new steering wheel....forget about it.

musclecar97 · February 2002

What happened to Aurorabyolds at Yahoo? It seems to have disappeared?

garnes · February 2002

I just talked to extreme motor sports and they said they have an engineering company working on the induction now and it should be available soon.

I hope it fits the Aurora. Unless it is a ton of money, I'll give it a try. If it fits right, it should be better than my air box modification. I'm pretty certain it will be cold/fresh air induction. Nothing pulling hot air off the engine. They said it will be dyno'd (with a caddy) so the gains for the Aurora should be easy to estimate. If it would add +10 HP at the wheels for an Aurora, I'll go for it. The K&N panel filter alone adds as much as 7, so if it had at least 3 more, I'd give it a try.

Here is a link to XMS http://www.x-m-s.com

Ask for Bob if you are interested.

Henry · February 2002

I never use Armour All on the car. However, I do have a tendecy to rest my finger on the spot where there is the most paint loss. I wonder if it is my skin oils??

I know the leather on my shifter kob was bad from resting my hand there when I drove. After replacing the handle, I no longer rest my hand there.

Still, why didn't GM just use brown colored plastic and forget about painting the stupid part!!!

Whoops, too simple. I should have known better.

sbeaupre · February 2002

I have a 99 aurora with 75K. I've noticed lately that the car rides rougher, sort of clunky, maybe something (bushing) is loose underneath? You literally feel every bump, even the paint they use for crosswalks (I'm not kidding!) It has some wheel vibration too...a slow pulsing from 45 to 50, goes away and then is replaced by typical wheel balance vibration from 55-85 (haven't gone much faster). I've since put 4 new rotors on, 4 new tires on, and done a 4 wheel alignment. I still get the vibration and rough ride. Here's the weird part...some days it is great, no vibration and not so rough. It seems a little better when real cold (sub 25), but this may be coincidence. Of course dealer says...."nothing's wrong...$65 for diagnosis" on more than one occasion. Any ideas?

sbeaupre · February 2002

One more thing. The vibration seems to come from the front driver side (maybe it just feels that way because I happen to sit there?). I had extremely bad wear on the outer band of the original tires before I replaced them, I don't drive hard...Dealer says it was the alignment but my brand new tires already have scuffs on the outer band that probably shouldn't be there.

aurich · February 2002

I have the same problem regarding vibration. When I first purchased the car it was as smooth as glass. As it aged (1998) the ride has increasing gotten worse. I have had the dealer go through the suspension. Initially they told me that it was flat spots on my tires. I changed the tires and the problem continues.

I have read a tech service bulletin that talks about a detailed spec regarding balancing and mounting the tires. It involves "clocking" the tires in order to eliminate the vibration between 60-75 mph.

I have not had this done but it appears that the cars suspension set-up is overly sensitive to wheel balance.

I can feel every bump in the road and have been thinking its time for new struts. Hate to spend the money if it won't cure the problem though.

rjs200240 · February 2002

I'm only taking a guess at your problem sbeaupre, but perhaps a strut is frozen (not literally frozen, but binding in place). That would explain it being incredibly rough sometimes, and then when it unbinds it would go back to being smooth. It's possible that it is less likely to bind up when cold since the metal is smaller and so tolerances are greater. Just an idea. You could try pushing down on the car at the corner that seems roughest and see if you can compress the strut.

This might not be the case for aurich since you noticed a gradual degradation of ride quality. If a strut binds it isn't usually gradual.

This is just an opinion, though. By trying to compress it, you could easily determine if this is what's happening without spending any money.

rjs200240 · February 2002

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bm/95-98aurora.htm

Jephjeph: I went ahead and removed the "Oldsmobile" badge from the rear of my car. I did basically what you did except I sprayed some 3M release agent on the foam first. It suggests using it for body trim removal, but you shouldn't let it sit on the paint. It really made the foam peel off easier. I really think it looks better now. The Olds logo just didn't look right. It looks more at home on an Eighty-Eight or something than on the Aurora.

garnes · February 2002

rjs - thanks for getting me thinking about the "cleaner" aspect of a paint maintenance product. I called Meguires and they highly recommended the Scratch X used with the orbital buffer to help remove the irregular ring left by the crummy water spots. They said it has some good chemical cleaners in it. I am still doubtful, but will give this a try in the future. I'll let you know how it works. If it works, I'll be floored because those buggers seem like they are in there. They said their No. 2 cleaner was some really tough stuff but would leave swirls if not used with a high speed buffer - and those things are not as easy to use as the orbital. I could see a hole burned through really easy. I'm not going there for a relatively minor problem.

Just a note - I've been following the Toyota/Lexus sludge thing a bit. It wasn't that long ago this site had the "American car - junk on wheels" thing going. Hmmmmmmmm. I wonder if those so eager to jump in and bash away have had their minds opened just a little.

Probably not. I think that "mine is better than yours (I don't care what you say)" mentality is actually caused by a virus.

musclecar97 · February 2002

Henry - White-out on a toothpick might work since your just filling in the grooves. My problem is the lettering on the headlight/turn signal stalk, no grooves to follow as a guide. You are still practicing law and accounting are you not? Should have some old white-out around somewhere.

rjs- Thanks for posting the article.

other stuff - Anticipating the 139 club later this year when the weather warms up. Back in September just before buying the car, on the test drive I had it to 115 before I realized it!

I keep trying to figure out why we love these classics so much....damn I've got the nicest car in town. I think its because they are 4door corvettes with all the cadillac toys.

rocket3_50 · February 2002

fredvh, here's what I saw tonight with my uncalibrated eyeballs on the 3.5 liter Aurora:
60 mph = 1900 rpm
65 mph = 2000 rpm
70 mph = 2100 rpm
75 mph = 2200 rpm

rjs200240 · February 2002

Garnes, I would steer clear of #2. That is a pretty hard-core product. I think it would be more appropriate for serious paint problems than for some little water spots. You are right that it could easily cause swirls or burning if you aren't Mr. Buffer. I still would recommend their Medallion cleaner because it is a chemical cleaner while I believe the Scratch-X probably has more (mild) abrasive in it. The Medallion has micro abrasives but they are small enough to be considered a non-abrasive product. I would think this would be better since there aren't scratches you need to remove, but rather a contaminant on top of the paint. Did you ask about the Medallion when you spoke to Meguiars? I've noticed they seem to have one product in mind sometimes unless you ask about the others. They seem to recommend their consumer products over their professional ones too. I guess the consumer products are more appropriate for most people, as well as easier to find in a store. If the Scratch-X is considered a non-abrasive, then I take it all back and I wouldn't bother with the Medallion as it is more expensive. Even if the Scratch-X is abrasive, I'm sure it is very mild and would certainly work fine. I just wanted to throw in my thoughts.

Musclecar97, I hear you. I don't have the "classic" but I too think it is the best car for the money. It is high-tech, comfortable, sporty yet luxurious, and has an excellent engine. Plus, it isn't expensive, especially for what it is. I love my Aurora. I'm not sure what I'll do when it's time to get another car. Maybe I should buy a 2003, put it in storage, and then pull it out in ten years... Sometimes I want to stop people in their Acura's and Lexus' and Infiniti's, ask them what they were thinking, take them for a ride, and then tell them they missed out on a real luxury/performance bargain.

I don't have $1000 I want to drop on a new exhaust, but I keep tossing it around in my mind. I'd like a bit more growl sometimes, but then I think how perfectly the exhaust note is tuned now. It has great balance between luxury silence and a performance growl.

I love everything about my car. Every little feature and button is perfect. The sunroof is so quiet when open at 55mph that I can hardly believe it. The leather on the steering wheel and shifter feels incredible to my hands. I don't want to let go of them. I seriously find myself wanting to go out in the garage to touch them and rub more lexol in them all the time, but I'm afraid I will pamper it to death. I am always worried that something I do to the car will ruin its perfection. It is a great handler, especially considering how smooth it is. I've yet to get the tires howling despite taking many turns rather enthusiastically, and when the pace is more relaxed it is like a dream, unjarring and never unsettled. It seems like no matter how briskly I'm accelerating, there is more there if I need it. I think it is the best car out there and, unfortunately, one of the best-kept secrets as well.

I'm glad this board is so active and doesn't rely on potential buyers and such to keep it alive. This ensures that I will always be able to go somewhere and share my feelings about this incredible car with other people who know exactly what I mean...

fredvh · February 2002

What year is your Aurora again and how long have you had it? Bought new or used?

rjs200240 · February 2002

Just like my name. I bought it brand new, and I ordered it so it would be just the way I wanted (and no one would have test-driven it). I took delivery in mid October, about 4 weeks after I placed the order. It has about 4,500 miles on it now.

It is "cherry" which is a dark red and has the neutral interior. I got the Bose stereo, heated seats, and a sunroof. I don't like chrome wheels, nor the "gold" package, and I don't really like nav. systems or trunk mounted changers (they get in the way sometimes), plus I really like Bose. I think the neutral interior is the most welcoming. I have seen the gray interior and it seemed sort of cold and professional. The two-tone neutral seems so much more friendly and inviting. I haven't seen the mocha interior (I had a hell of a time finding a dealer with a gray one).

Another small thing I appreciate about the Aurora and about all GM products is the logical way their packages and options are laid out. It is easy to see exactly what you are getting, and what is different about the different trim levels, packages, and models. I am always surprised how difficult it is to get that sort of information from other manufacturers. I've noticed that with Ford, Jaguar, Nissan, Lexus, and others that it can be downright cryptic to determine what the difference is with different trim levels of a vehicle. If you haven't seen it, www.gmbuypower.com is a good tool to see how you can configure your vehicle.

If you are looking at the 3.5 Aurora, then my recommendation would be to get the All-Weather package, followed by the Convenience package (the electrochromatic rearview is worth it alone), followed by whatever individual options you like followed by the Passenger Comfort package, depending on how much you wish to spend. The Passenger Comfort package is nice, and I really like the climate control on the passenger door touch, but if money is an issue then let the passengers be the ones who feel the budget. I would recommend the V8 though because the mileage is pretty close to the V6, and because it is a V8... Plus, that would help the resale somewhat. Also, a V8 has a natural balance that a V6 can't achieve. A 90 degree V8 can be naturally free from vibration, whereas a V6 requires balance shafts and such to reduce them. As an aside, an I6 and a V12 are the other common engines that are naturally vibration free. Any other *common* (like V6, I5, I4, F4) design (including narrow angle V8s) can only try to reduce the effect of vibrations (although many engines do a heck of a job at that, the 3.5 being one of them). I can't say I've ever noticed any vibration with the 3.5 in the Intrigue or Aurora, though. They were velvety smooth.

Ooops, I just noticed the All-Weather package requires the Passenger Comfort package... All the more reason to get the 4.0... no package decisions...

tpken · February 2002

I'm a lurker here - own a 2000 Bonneville SE - but enjoy reading on the Aurora experiences. Sounds like you have a gorgeous car there. I'm sure many prefer the 'Classics' but I do like the looks of the new (unfortunately final) generation car and absolutely agree with your sentiments about prefering the 4.0 over the 3.5 engine. Perhaps in a couple years I'll be looking for a 1 or 2 year old 4.0 to replace my Bonneville. I know there will be some great buys out there. Yours sounds particularly nice and I wish you well with it for many years and miles of Aurorian satisfaction.

Ken

ewt · February 2002

You might want to check your wheel bearings. I had a front wheel bearing go bad and it caused variable vibration. It was very noticible at times, and not at others. Lift the front tires off the ground and see if you have any play while wiggling the tire from the top and bottom. It's actually an easy job to replace them. The hub and bearing come as one unit and it is held on by three bolts. The only catch is that you need a 34mm socket for the axle nut, and a Torx socket (a T55 I think) for the three bolts to get it off. Also, I found that parts are available online for MUCH less than what you'll pay at the dealer at list price. I got the bearing for about $200 shipped vs. $350 + tax at the dealer.

garnes · February 2002

rjs - yeah, they said the no. 2 was some tough stuff and it would often need professional care when used.

This guy indicated the X was a chemical cleaner, or had chemical cleaners and did not mention abrasives. It probably has some very mild abrasives though. Since I already have some, I'll try it first, and then look at the Medallion stuff if I need to.

I got the car so perfect - like a wet piece of candy (virtually scratchless) that the slightest imperfection drives my crazy.

Hey if you ever get the itch for the performance exhaust, just call Corsa. I think they can do one for the new Aurora easy. I think you will get a very slight note while cruising at 70/75. I actually visited them and rode in the President's STS with the system and it was very cool. No noise at idle either. I did pass on it though because I was not sure I would like ANY exhaust note at all on long highway drives. Trouble is I really have nothing to compare it to. I've never owned a performance car, so I don't know what is "normal" and not very degrading and what would be too much.

My wife and I ended up having a blast in downtown Cleveland anyway, so it wasn't a wasted trip at all. I actually want to go back.

sbeaupre · February 2002

Ewt, thanks for this feedback about wheel bearings. Did you notice that when you hit bumps it felt like a truck when you had the bad hub (sort of clunky)? Just don't want to spend needless money. Thanks.

--Sean

musclecar97 · February 2002

Garnes--Thanks for your posts and testing on the airbox mod. Over the weekend I pulled out the white plastic piece and the bottom resonator box. Decided not to cut the extra hole in the bottom as the bottom plastic insert just slides out and seems to open up a hole almost as wide as the one in the frame. Haven't got the K&N yet, but I can tell a difference in sound and more snap in the middle of the rpms! Figure I can put it all back together for warrnty work, though the white plastic piece is a bit beatup and I chisled off the tops of the round black pieces holding it in place....you'd have to look real hard to notice when its all put back in place.

I've got the previously thought to be rare green...or is it blue in the right light color.

rjs200240 · February 2002

Hey Sbeaupre, did you try to see if it was a strut binding before you buy a wheel bearing?

Garnes, I would say any exhaust you can hear while cruising would be bad. It is hard to evaluate when you drive something for a few minutes. It really starts to make more difference on a long drive, and even just as time goes on. Normally if I am cruising at 60+ I hear more wind noise than anything. It is still real quiet, but the wind is the most prominent thing. If the exhaust becomes the prominent sound, even if it is still pretty quiet, I think it would be too much. I appreciate the silent cruise more than I'd appreciate the extra growl when I dig into it. If the Corsa truly provides both, then that is awesome. I suppose if it was installed with clamps rather than welds, I could always swap it back to stock when I wanted to. That could be part of my trip preparation... swap the stock exhaust back on.

I'm sure the Scratch-X will do the trick great. I am awaiting an order of #7 before I try out the Medallion cleaner. I got the Medallion protectant too. I don't want to take off the current coat of Gold Class with the cleaner until I can use the polish followed by the protectant. I'll let you know how that threesome works for me. My car has some very light swirl marks from the dealership wash/wax when it was delivered (despite my insistence that they touch my car as little as humanly possible while still performing their pre-delivery inspection)

Musclecar97, you've intrigued me as to the color of your car. What is the official name of the color? Do you have any pictures?

Hey Aurora50, you never really commented on the effect of your airbox/dryer hose modification. Did it make a difference in how the car pulls?

ewt · February 2002

"Ewt, thanks for this feedback about wheel bearings. Did you notice that when you hit bumps it felt like a truck when you had the bad hub (sort of clunky)? Just don't want to spend needless money. Thanks"

I don't remember if I got any thunking, but I'd get some wheel bearing noise (whoo whoo whoo) sound when making left turns (right front bearing was bad), and a vibration on the highway that came and went and felt like an unbalanced tire. Determining if you need one or not is pretty simple. If you have any play when grabbing the tire at the top and bottom with the tire up in the air, the bearing needs replacement. My car only had about 70K miles. I'm not sure if they typically wear out that fast or not. My left front bearing still seems to be ok, although my traction control light is still on. I assumed the sensor built into the hub was the cause, but apparently it wasn't.

Eric

autobahn95 · February 2002

i have a little experience with front wheel bearings, maybe i can add a little insight on your noise problem.
on my '95, i started to hear a constant growling sound that came from the left front wheel. the car had just over 87,000 miles on it when the bearing went. it just appeared suddenly while i was driving, it wasn't a gradual onset or anything like that. i changed the bearing myself, and once i did that my traction light would flash quite often, especially when the car was parked and idling. most of the time the traction would turn itself off after receiving so many false readings from the sensor. what i had to do, was replace the right side wheel bearing also. it's important to get the same brand of manufactured wheel bearing because the computer takes precise measurements from each wheel speed sensor and compares the data to activate the traction control. chances are, if one bearing goes bad, the other bearing is not far behind.
i hope this helps you guys.

musclecar97 · February 2002

rjs- The official color name according to Zinc's paint code is Medium Dark Teal Metallic. It's light bluish green, but in the right light it looks more blue. I saw the color on a 98 Camaro convertible once, but have yet to see another Aurora with it. 97 & 98 were the only years they used that color. The Plum is also a rare color.

Followed a 2002 home tonight and had to tailgate to make sure it was aROARa. The rear fog lights are what caught my eye. Sat in one at the dealer and love the interior. You've got a nice ride.
The thing I jones on on the Classic's is their hips and shoulders and the way the side mirrors are hooked to the doors...look like racing car mirrors.

oldsman2 · February 2002

I had the same vibration problem with my 1997 Aurora. The cause is incorrect wheel balancing. There is a special way to balance the wheels on this particular model, and not all tire shop have the equipment to properly do so. Look under the last few weeks replies under "problems and solutions" in the town hall for Auroras.

musclecar97 · February 2002

I spent all day saturday messing with the center console. The shift indicator light is out as is the one in the center glove box. The glove box was a burnt out bulb, but on the shift indicator light, their ain't no wire hooked up to it and I sure couldn't find one just waiting to be hooked up under there.

rjs- I'll get a photo to you one of these days...have to take one first.

Anybody know the name of the valve that sits on top of the back valve cover on the passenger side...oil vacum of some sort hooks up to it... any way mine is making a racket, took it off and shook it and it sounds like its full of bbs.

blk97aurora · February 2002

musclecar97:

I don't know why you cannot find the wiring; but, it isn't likely to be waitng to be hooked up. See my two messages on the topic (1834 and 2279).

I believe the valve you asked about is PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). They have a pellet inside that rattles as you shake the valve.

musclecar97 · February 2002

It was as if the guys at the factory forgot to run the wires, or somebody did some work on the console wiring and nipped and taped the shift indicator wires. They just weren't there. The indicator had the male plug in the bottom, but no female plug anywhere.

I was tearing this all apart hoping to find the wooden ashtray door that was missing when I bought the car. The guy who traded this thing in was a real slob... I found tons of junk(pens, pencils, trash)behind the ashtray between the kick panels. My 0-60 times should be better now that I got rid of the extra weight!

Thanks blk97 on the PCV, I'll be replacing that soon.

musclecar97 · February 2002

Garnes...are you ever going to get around to dynoing the mass air flow sensor you installed?

henri- glad to hear she's back...hate to see you go the way of zinc

gisom · February 2002

Henry - I was looking at the 2002 aurora breakdown on Edmunds and it had a $103 surcharge. What is that all about?

Greg

aurora5000 · February 2002

For some reason, I cannot get on as Aurora50 to post, so I am now on at Aurora5000. We will try that.

rjs200240- My modification seems to work great after 3 months. It seems to have more power in the 3500-5500 range. I notice it when I get accelerating on the entrance ramp of the Interstate. It has a very slight growl upon accelerating but not enough to be noticed by the normal person (my wife). I also have the K&N air filter. If you want more details and photos, give me your email address and I will try to take some photos...
I am next looking at some sort of free flow mufflers for my 2002-4.0 Aurora but they need to be quiet, as to the "normal person" again. Any suggestions??
My purchase date was Oct.2001 and I have aprox. 4400 miles.
At 3000, switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and filter. I will change oil when the car computer says it is time to. Probably in the 4 to 5 thousand mile range. Left dino oil in it for break in period although the owners book says it does not have a break in period just be careful in the first 500 miles of driving.
Anyone else use synthetic oil?
Good day...

Oldsmobile Aurora

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