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I'm not really up on how to post pictures or have a web site. I guess that makes me a little "old" too.
I stuck with the Michelin MXV4's for the new tires. Man - I sure hope there are no vibration problems.
RJS - you posted something about the autobahn having a speed limiter -but just higher. I really don't think it has one. What the point of limiting to 130 or 135? To keep you from doing 139? - which I think has been done by some people crazier than me.
At first, I though that it was just a rev limiter and if you had slightly bigger tires, or they were slightly overinflated, then you might be able to squeeze a few extra MPH out of it. That would explain going 139. However, the speedometer doesn't know you have slightly oversized tires, so it wouldn't report that speed. So now I don't know what the deal is (unless the person who hit 139 was clocked at 139 as opposed to his speedo saying that). Since the computer gets it's speed from the tranny, if it were limited to 136, then when you hit the limiter it should think it's going 136, not 139. The speedo, even though it is analog, is just a stepper motor that displays whatever speed the computer tells it. It doesn't have some rotating cable going to it like in the old days. So now I don't know what to think. Anyone else who can shed some light on this, please shed!
Oh, I'm not real into the web page stuff either. It's more about having the right software and an artsy mindset than having any technical knowledge, and to me it's really boring. You can tell by the non-slick appearance of my site. As long as the pictures are there, I don't care much about how professional it looks. You can sign up for a free geocities site and just upload pictures and use their little tools to make a page to stick it on. But I don't mind sticking them on my site. I've got space to use.
Then there is this radial forced balance. The Goodyear in my town has one. Is it worth it? Any thoughts? It's probably about $140 for a set of 4.
Speed limiter - I just don't feel comfortable going much over 100 for very long at all. If you ever got caught going 120+ it would be jail.
So I called the place I had them balanced and told them about it and they were like, "we'll put them on the balancer again for you" and I was like, no - they are weight balanced just fine, it's just that the tire/wheel combo has a high spot - can you fix that? He goes, "yeah, we'll put it on the balancer."
Aargh. Does anyone know of a good tire shop in the St. Louis area (St. Charles) who will do a forced balance?
garnes - yeah - the only thing keeping me under 100 is the potential to go to jail. I wish I owned a race track
This guy mentioned that the Goodyears are starting to get them, so I'd call and if they don't have it, maybe they could tell you who has one. That's what I did. The Goodyear that had one is a new facility. I understand the equipment is something like 11k too. Not a cheap investment.
the bosch plug wires I ordered came in only they were OEM brand and only 7mm. Checked around and nobody can seem to get the bosch wires. I ordered accel 8mm racing wires from expressautoparts.com for about half the price the local chain tried selling me the OEM brand, not original equipment manfucaturer, but a company that has named itself OEM. $124 vs $81. wow. My plan is to have them on, along with the new plugs and the K&N by July 27 when I take her to the track and see what she'll do in the quarter-mile.
Accel makes nice stuff. The only possible problem with race-type wires is that they might have more RF interference. If you don't notice anything, though, then it's no problem.
Let us know what she does. Have you ever timed her before?
The funny thing about the Aurori is that you are either passionate about them or they're yesterday's news.
I have had my 95 for over five years now. And I can still walk out to the car, take a hard look at it, and still say its the best looking car on the street.
The only car I would rather drive is the Caddie CIEN. And since I don't have $250,000 for the CIEN . . . . make mine Aurora.
So, the better looking "inside the wheel" balance is not as good even though it seems to still be a dynamic balance.
I hope this might be of some use to somebody.
A couple of weeks back someone mentioned an overheating problem after dealer replacement of water pump because the cooling system had not been "burped." "Burping" is not mentioned in my '97 service manual. What is involved? I understand burping for my mid-engine Fiero, but have never heard about its need when the engine and radiator are relatively close together.
My mechanic told me that he tried to replace the water pump without the special tool and ending up buying the tool because he was having too much trouble getting the thing lose.
You can go your own way, but based on his story I would buy/borrow the tool.
Henri
On the 1/4 mile runs, I've never done it before and its to happen the end of July. I tried a limiter run on the freeway the other day, but started coming up on traffic and had to back off at 120. She was still pulling strong though I noted it had just shifted into 4th gear. I didn't have the tranny button pushed in, just mashed the throttle and held it there. As I braked a bit to slow down, felt like I was going slow and the speedo was right at 100. What a missle. 140 another day perhaps.
The new owner is charged with giving her the care that I did. I have no regrets...either about owning her or selling her. Time to move on.....in my case down. I bought a 93 Volvo with 65K on it. A mere child of a car! With an engine that is literally in perfect condition!
Oh, but the feel and sound of that America V8!!! Nothing, NOTHING comes close!!!
Well boys, I appreciate the tips and jive.
Good luck to you all with your great American Classics! I'll not soon forget!!!
Seegirt
There are only a few great Classics.
Pat
Sedans Host
jonbgood - you could also look at carmax.com for a comparison of prices. They are a little high I think with their "no haggle" price, but it will give you a reference. They show a 99 w/30k miles no sunroof for 18.6k, another 99 with 32k miles for 16k with sunroof, and still another 99with 25k miles for with sunroof for 17k. Carmax supposedly has clean cars - who knows.
I got my tires at Discount tire. They have a big sign explaining how they carefully torque the nuts to spec. Well, I stood there and watched them. Sure they use a torque wrench, but they just lean on the thing and the nut is still turning after the "click". They do it really fast and there is no accuracy at all. If that was not enough, I went to give the guy the locking nut adaptor back and said "hey you will still need this". He said that it will just slip out of the wrench and they don't fully tighten any locking type lugs. Great!! I guess 4 out of 5 is good enough.
Well I redid them all at home and sure enough, some were really on there and the locking lugs were loose as can be. Furthermore, they have those torque wrenches dialed up all day I bet and that's not good. They are supposed to be relaxed back down to a low setting when not used.
With all the rotor warping crap going on, I think it's a good idea to do this right. Not too many places seem to.
Henry - you are right about what you said way back about new tires vs. old. I got the new MXV4's and they blow the old MXV's away. You just can't beat new tires. It's just not accurate to compare any 3/4 gone tire to a new one.
It turns out the fuel rail had failed. $400 later (including the tow), I'm back to normal. I had asked to keep the failed part, but it was already gone when I picked up the car (disposal of evidence, perhaps). Anyway, I had just read THAT day of others here having to replace the fuel lines after similar symptoms. How the heck my car didn't go up in flames, I'll never know. The engine was sizzling when I popped the hood. Speaking of which, it occurred to me after the fact that doing that could have ignited a fireball. Think about that before you do the same thing. Maybe we should all be carrying a fire extinguisher in the trunk.
I've heard that the kind of wrench you have is pretty accurate. It's maybe not as convenient, but good. If you get the click type, spend some money and get a good one.
I've been away for a while, just had neck surgery. Two disks removed, three vertebrae fused (C5,C6, & C7), and a little less hip bone (they use a piece of it in the neck). I'll be off work for a while, so I'll check in more often.
The car's delay in starting is starting to become more pronounced. I am thinking that it does not make much sense to buy a 99 unless I want to get rid of the 95 (and I don't). Now if I am gonna own two Auroras, it might as well be the two versions.
But can I really justify a 250hp Aurora over a Caddie?
hardesty - those numbers are incredible. That is really a lot of car in 2003 for that money. Nothing even comes close to offering so much. I hope everything works out for you. Doctors orders - keep your toe out of the Aurora for awhile.
Thank you for your advice. I have ordered the parts; now I need to locate the tool. I'm not in a hurry. My coolant is past due to be replaced and I figure that when I open up the cooling system I might as well replace the water pump and thermostat as preventive maintenance (79,000 miles).
--Robert
The point is that I wouldn't replace it unless it's leaking.
JonBGood, the color code is listed on the build sheet in the trunk. The number code for the paint color should be in the trunk. Here are the codes for the ones that sound like your color:
Gold 60U
Bronze Mist 76U
Champagne 83U
Copper Mist 88U