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Comments
Javs
I have an 01 3.5L Aurora, love the car but am currently having a problem. The car will be running then all of a sudden burp (no better explenation) and the tack will then go to redline and move back and forth, staying in the redline area as the car runs normally. The engine still will be running fine. If I turn the engine off and back on it will run and register on the gages normally. Also, on the digital management system my oil pressure is pegged at 130 psi. The car is running great.
I went to Discount Auto, they put their sensor on it and it registered a bad crankcase position sensor.
I then went to a local GM dealer and he said it is just a couple of switches, the crankcase and oil sending, and that it is not a problem driving the car until the switches are replaced.
Has anyone duplicated these problems? Any help will be appreciated.
Tks, Ed
Also, it's a crankshaft position sensor. Hopefully your crankcase's position never changes...
Please help!
2) eBay (used to see them go to auction up there, not sure if they are any longer as I don't peruse eBay much these days)
They are selling out 95 and older manuals. If in stock, they are $30. I paid $120 or so for 03 LeSbre on paper; $85 for 98 LeSabre manual.
I'd jump on $30!!!
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=OLD&mscsid=5MF77W6LG- - SR49PCQQG803HG23FRQ7BEF
Note the 800 number
(800) 782-4356.
They are great people to deal with. I've bought manuals since 77 Olds for each car. They sent a whole new set for 98 LeSabre after about a year because of changes. Just showed up on doorstep unannounced. No charge. Had been corrections so they shipped them.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
BARRR NONE !!!!
STILL CRAZY (about aurora) AFTER ALL THESE YEARS !!!
I especially love when you're searching for your car in a crowded parking lot and realize that your Aurora is the only car you'd consider driving home compared to the others. It's that very same moment when you think to yourself " I sure do have the best looking car here!"
It is so nice to hop behind the wheel and enjoy the syling and luxury of such a fine automobile.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
You're catching up! I'm just under 95k on my '98. I need to finish detailing it this weekend, then it's off to an environmentally-controlled storage facility for the summer. I'll pull it out sometime in October so my mechanic buddy and I can put new struts, shocks, and rear brake pads on the car. My $20 OEM eBay power antenna failed again, so I'm keeping my eyes open for another replacement. Still love driving the car, but it no longer seems quick (especially with the A/C on) compared to my GTO :-)
--Robert
I find those bright lights a real safety risk when driving behind a car in normal conditions. The Jags have them, even the baby jags, and those too are irritating to drive behind.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Robert, I'm in a similar boat now. I am the new owner of a 1990 Corvette ZR-1. My wife is pretty happy driving the Regal, so the Aurora isn't seeing a lot of action lately.
Showing respect for the elders.
" but it no longer seems quick (especially with the A/C on) compared to my GTO."
Embracing the new technology.
A well balanced individual if you ask me.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I've seen 2 Classic Aurora's with spoilers in-person. One was the first Aurora I ever saw back in 95' at a High School parking lot in Ottumwa, Iowa. I guess it was the Principals. The other was 2 weeks ago at the movie theater in Oakdale, MN. I was able to talk to the owner and he said it was factory. I would love to find a kit but matching the paint would be tricky.
You mentioned having some pictures. Would it be possible to get them from you?
Thanks,
Rick
http://www.razzi.com/vehicles/oldsmobile/aurora_9500_4dr_2121.html
Pictures and pricing - can even get them painted (might be OK for black, don't know about the other colors). Pricing's not bad, IMHO, compared to the stuff I've seen for the GTO...
--Robert
Javi
Member
"Aurora Club Of North America"
Anyway, I was thinking of painting the car Cadillac Auburn. Its a hard color to describe, its like a golden burnt orange. Anyway, I have seen the color on Caddie's and Pontiacs. Any thoughts on this. The interior of the car is 1995 Neutral which is different from later year nuetral colors.
Henri
--Robert
--Robert
I know that this is used to help control emissions. Here's some info I Googled:
"An internal combustion engine requires a relatively rich mixture for smooth operation on cold start. For this reason, the ECU operates in open loop mode with a fixed fuel map for the first few seconds of engine operation until the oxygen sensors have heated to operating temperature. Because of this, exhaust gases contain high levels of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons after cold starts. The unburned hydrocarbons could be further oxidized, except there is no oxygen left after combustion. By feeding air into the exhaust manifold (secondary air), CO and HC are oxidized through afterburning at high temperatures to form water and carbon dioxide. The exothermal reaction also increases the exhaust gas temperature, which warms the catalyist more quickly.
To achieve efficient warmup operation, a high secondary air flow rate must be achieved within the first few seconds of engine startup, and the air flow rate must be maintained until oxygen sensor control is in operation. Air flow is maintained by an electric air pump. Once the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters have reached their operating temperatures, valves cut off the secondary air flow."
Maybe a problem with that secondary air pump, or the cutoff valves...
Executive summary: the first-generation Aurora is a very nice car. They have been known to bleed your wallet dry with repair costs - yes, the Northstar can be an expensive engine to repair when things go wrong (all aluminum construction, some poor design choices like the starter in the valley below the intake, alternator is a bear to replace).
Having said that, it can be a very enjoyable car when working properly. Great ride, luxurious comfort, ample power. And, you have a '99 - a lot of "teething" issues ('95-96 tranny shift solenoids, '95-'97 fuel lines) are resolved for the '98's and '99's.
I think it all depends on your mindset. If having an issue with a car (remember, a '99 was built July of '98 through May of '99, so it's 6 to 7 years old) bums you out/ticks you off, I wouldn't consider one. If you can let the sweat roll off your back, and especially if you are mechanically inclined, I would consider it. I would also suggest you verify what was repaired on the "salvage" car. As to the power steering pump leaking, mine was oozing a little - the dealer wanted to replace the whole rack and pump ($1200) - took it to another mechanic, who wiped it off and told me "they all do it". I've not had any further problems (my dealership knew that I had a third-party extended warranty, and I think was trying to take advantage of that fact. As an aside, my $1200 $0 deductibe warranty paid out over $4500 in claims, so that was a good buy, but probably not an option for you at the car's age)...
One last thing... I'd see if I could find a maintenance history on the car. If it's not well-maintained (fluids changed/flushed, tires rotated, plugs & wires changed when needed, et. al.), it's probably not worth buying...
--Robert
First: How do I set the seat postions to the pre-set buttons on the door?
Second: How do I change the names on the trip computer when I first start the car?
And Last: How do I get an owners manual without paying so much for one?
Thanks for your time, I really appreciate!
I think you can buy owner's manuals from http://www.helminc.com - or check eBay (I've seen those up there before).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Is there a temp switch that starts the fan? Is there a high speed setting for when temp gets over a certain temp? I'd like to check this out before getting stranded somewhere.
BTW, the A/C wasn't on either. Thanks for the help.
paul
You say it never went down even when moving. Were you moving through still air? Or was the air going the same direction you were giving no airflow through the radiator? If you're moving above 30-35, the air flow should cool the car down. In stop and go traffic that won't hold true.
You can check your fan switching on by idling in your garage after a drive in the car. Watch the gauge and the fans should turn on before the gauge gets much above the normal mark. The boiling point for 50-50 antifreeze mix under 15 lbs pressure cap is about 229 or somewhere in that range. So the fans turn on to keep the coolant below that level and avoid boiling. I'll hear my fans turn on in winter pulling up to autoteller after driving normally and sitting and idling.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If I am sitting idling, and/or in traffic, I keep my eye on the temps (especially if the A/C is on). If it gets over 240, I turn the car off and let it cool, when possible. It's only after you've been driving it at highway speeds for a few minutes that it will cool back down...
--Robert
I will keep close tabs on it as well. Thanks!!
Your observations about your '96 are consistent with my '97. The first mark above 200 on our temp gauges is 220 degrees F. I have confirmed this with my scan tool. This is much hotter than I think a car should run, but it seems the way most or all Classics operate. Mine has been this way for the six years I have owned it. I replaced the radiator (leaking) last year with no change in operating temp.
According to my factory service manual, three conditions will turn the cooling fans on low speed: AC on, coolant temp over 229, trans fluid temp over 302. The fans are controlled by the PCM. There are three conditions that will turn the fans on high speed: coolant temp at or over 234, trans fluid temp over 304, certain diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
A 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol with 15 psi pressure cap boils at 260 degrees.
I suggest that you check the air deflector under the front bumper. It is a black piece of plastic the width of the radiator and about 10 inches front to back in the middle. Many of them are dragged off by hitting curbs. If the deflector is not in place, coolant temp will run about 10 degrees higher than with it in place; this is when the car is traveling with enough speed to force air through the radiator.
BTW, around town my Aurora usually runs cooler with the AC on because the cooling fans are on.
Les