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Comments
I appreciate your help. I've been pressing the wrong buttons and would love to see them at night again!
- Dave
I get my stuff from the local Cadillac dealer.
Jack
Nice looking Aurora. I have a '96, pearl colored and she is a great car.
I don't suppose you have any detailed instructions about replacing the master cylinder. (You talked about it in the post) I am pretty sure I am going to have to get mine replaced, I am just hopeful that I may be able to perform the job myself.
Thanks,
Brian
I'd do a search on this forum. Bet you are not the only one who has had this problem.
Jack
After depressing brake hard multiple times, I can eventually get the button to depress to allow shifting, but wanted to lube so I don't keep having this problem.
The drive axles do vibrate above 68 mph; at least nothing else could be doing the vibes. front end is tight, wheels and tires balances, bearings good, (it keeps me from speeding) !
I have owned my '97 for over nine years and followed posts on Edmunds and other boards. I have never seen anyone report trans fluid life less than 100%.
Are your tires/wheels balanced accurately? I had a vibration problem with a set of W-rated tires that were balanced at what I considered a reputable tire store. Because Auroras are very sensitive to tire balance and stiffness, I took my car to a front-end shop that has a Hunter road-force balance machine. Turns out road force was fine -- the measurements on my four wheel/tire assemblies ranged from 2 to 9; the shop guy said he had never seen such low (good) measurements. If the numbers are 27 or higher, they will remount the tires on the wheels to match high and low spots.
The problem turned out to be bad balance -- one wheel/tire was off by 3/4 ounce.
Hope this helps.
Les
Les
Long time, no post. Still have my black/black loaded Autobahn '98. 121k miles and still going strong (knock on wood). Had an alternator fail on the road in March of '07, and the less-than-competent (AAA-approved) mechanics, in replacing it, caused a number of issues (over-torqued lugs, warping the right front rotor, then the radiator leaked, tranny cooler line was also mangled, then the replacement alternator failed (under warranty, they replaced),and they screwed up the power steering pump and pulley... and then the r/f strut started rattling...). Got all of that stuff resolved, and the car is running fine now. I did have to replace my FPR again (that causes the "warm start" problem mentioned above). Only problem with my girl is cosmetic... the clear coat is failing on the roof and trunk lid (my car had to be buffed 2-3x due to paint overspray problems at a place next to my work, and one of the shops that did it also burned through the paint on the edges of the hood and the trunk). Latest minor quirk is the auto headlights not always coming on or staying on (everything's fine if I turn them on manually) - I suspect the sensor might be toast. Recharged the A/C last summer...
Still hoping to drive the old girl for another winter next year (my "toy" is one of the modern Holden-designed and built Pontiac GTO's - which I drive mostly in the summer - the Aurora is the winter car). The GTO is nearly paid for, but I'd like to go for a little while with no car payments... although I suspect the wife will be wanting a Camaro 'vert when they come out, and I'll probably end up with a G8 GT at some point in the next 12-18 months... I don't think I can part with the Aurora, however (considering having a friend do a restoration... other than the paint, there's no rust on the body, just the frame)...
Darrell
Darrell
I found that if you take off the emergency break, press hard on break petal and firmly hold in on the button (on shifter) , it will soon release. Don't just press it, you may have to hold for a short time. It works for a while that sticks sometimes, but will release after procedures I outlined.
I have not had a chance to look further at lube points, but I think it relates to the safety feature that keeps you from shifting without pressing on break. I was hoping someone that has more experience with this issue would answer. I asked the former olds dealer service dept, however they did not seem to have experience with this problem.
I have found someone belonging to this site generally have solved a lot of common problems. One I had was fuel door would no longer release by pushing fuel button on dash. I was advised to put one drop of 30 weight oil on plunger that releases door, that was 2 years ago, no problems.
Good luck and I will advise if I have to dig further into this issue.
Please let me know if this helps and also if you get any more information on this issue.
Don
First windows are not working not a single one and I already change the braker for a new one ( $ 10.45 from a GMC dealer) no change. I'm wondering if anybody knows how to check the main window switch.
Also the power mirror are not working braker fine.
AC was working but no more (?)
power sunroof not working either.
I love the car runs like rocket but I'm scare of the electrical, I would like to restore it already all the seats done and rug, any suggestions please to solve the mistery. Thank you.
I am having this exact problem with my 99. Did you ever figure out what was causing the issue. I am pulling my hair out.. ARRR
Please help if you have even a clue.
Thanks
I'm starting to wonder if I screwed up the re-assembly but I checked everything against my 98 (I have two classics, a 96 with the horn issue and a 98) and all seems well.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, Kevin
All the hubcaps are gone now. I never replaced the first one that was lost and haven't bothered with any others since.
I am currently driving a '00 Lincoln LS V8, which is a nice rear-drive alternative to the old Aurora as a highway cruiser.
Keep on rollin', Aurora drivers!
I own a 2001 4.0 aurora and recharged ac today passenger side was cold back was cold drivers side didn't get very cold now it's already warm again thruout car? What is wrong how much is itgonna cost to fix?,also did pressure test on coolant it's at 25 why?