Oldsmobile Aurora

mordecai24 · May 2001

Matrixfrog...

My 98 experiences the same problem... But it is one of those problems that I deal with and the dealership doesn't see a problem... It gets worse in Hot weather...

Also the problem with the brake grabbing... The 98 has that one too... Also the dealership does not see it as a problem either...

Mordecai

kosterr6160 · May 2001

I recently purchased a 2001 Aurora 4.0 equipped with the Rainsense winshield wiper option. In intermittent mode, Rainsense controls the speed of the wipers depending on the amount of moisture on the windshield. Not a bad idea, but I find it annoying at times depending on the amount and direction of the rainfall. For example, the wipers often run on High when it is sprinkling. Has anyone else experienced this frustration? Does anyone know how to disable this feature? I couldn't find anything in the manual.

larryfl · May 2001

Matrixfrog-

I've not had the pedal-sticking problem with my Aurora, but have with two previous cars, an '86 Olds NinetyEight and a '92 Infiniti Q45. Both times it had to do with sensors and/or the computer inputs/responses. On the 98 I had shop after shop grease everything they could find until one shop finally said "I know what it is" and he was able to fix it by reading the computer codes and re-programming some settings. On the Q45, I took it back to the dealer and they found a sensor somewhere in the throttle mechanism had simply needed "adjusting" and it was fixed (at no charge).

Isn't modern engine technology wonderful?

uhlme · May 2001

Greetings everyone,
I have a 98 Aurora(or should I say my wife does most days...) It's diamond white with/neutral and has every option but the Bose stereo. We purchased it in March of 2000 with 36000 miles on it. It now has over 46000 miles on it and has had some of the common problems like the rear window trim, wind noise around the doors, etc. I took it to Talladega, AL a couple of weeks ago for the NASCAR races and on the way home to southern IN, the AC compressor locked-up. Luckily, it wasn't too hot and was fixed under our soon to expire factory warranty. We are trying to decide if we should purchase an extended warranty. We will probably keep the car at least another 2 years and have been pretty happy with it. I normally don't buy extended warranties on anything, but I know there are lots of things that can happen that aren't cheap to fix on this car. Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone purchased and/or made claims with the GM Protection Plan, warrantydirect.com, or warrantybynet.com? Thanks.

zinc1 · May 2001

uhlme, (welcome back) I purchased an extended warranty from WarrantybyNet. It was $1,100 and they've paid for over $4,000 in repairs in about six months (more here). Owning this car without a warranty is a dangerous gamble.

redskin024 · May 2001

i was thinking of something else related to sensors... but it was the SCV (speed control volume or something like that). not the wipers. but i would check near the wiper controls for any kind of adjuster that is on. if not, maybe you have to call the dealer and they'll have to calibrate it or something... good luck

seegirt · May 2001

OK Brothers of the Aurorian Cloth, here's the deal after owning a 96 for 3 years(will be 3 on Memorial Day).
Light Teal Metallic,dark blue interior. Purchased for 22k in May 98 with 18k miles on it.
All options except Bose sound system and CD changer.
Repairs
1.Replaced the AC compressor under warranty in 99.
2.Replaced Fuel Pressure Valve: $300 in 2000
3.Replaced EGR valve which seriously effects how the car operates. That was summer of 2000 and cost $400.
Total repair costs out of pocket after 3 years:$700.

Routine Service
The car has 68k on her and I replaced the tires about 1 year ago. I put Yokohama Avid V4's on her and they are great. A far cry cheaper then the OEM Michelins, and from my driving experience, every bit as good if not better. BTW, tirerack.com.for those.
Tune-up at 50k
Brakes at 50k

Issues:
1. The old Service Engine Soon light is quirky and can come on for no good reason but is usually related to refueling, re fueling on a rainy day or whatever and goes off of it's own.
2.Occasionally starts with a thud, possibly engine mounts???
3.Sun glare off the massive dash surface combined with the steeply sloped windshield can be brutal.
4. The engine consumes a quart of oil almost every 1000-1200 miles. Although, it does not leak one drop of any fluid.
5.The universal garage door opener does not work with most rolling code technology garage door opening systems, so it's virtually useless. I believe this was corrected with newer models.

I keep thinking of getting a new car, but I struggle with the reason why I want to.
Few comparable cars out there are more comfortable and enjoyable to drive.
I put 72 miles a day of combined winding country roads and Interstate driving on this beast and it is a pleasure to drive and everything in/on it works.

I too debated the extended warranty issue at about 48k when the factory warranty was about to expire. I would recommend it to those buying the Classic these days. What the hell? You are paying so little for a great car a $1000 or so for some insurance is a reasonable bet. I would have probably bought an extended warranty at the time of purchase if I were to do it again. The peace of mind of having it should you wish to keep the car for 100K is worth the cost of the warranty or better yet if you can negotiate it included in the deal.

Overall, a decent set of wheels.

PS, if anyone else has noticed that thud or clunk when you turn the ingition(seems to occur only after it's been sitting all night) let me know.

docjohn · May 2001

I made the mistake of buying my 2001 Aurora with the stock audio system instead of the Bose upgrade. I want to upgrade my stock rear deck 6 x 9" speakers for some Infinity 3-ways.
Can anyone tell me the correct procedure for removing the rear deck to get to the speakers? Unfortunately, you cannot just remove the speakers from inside the trunk like you could with so many cars in the "good ole days".
Thanks...

hardesty · May 2001

You have to remove the rear seat cushion, then the rear seat back. This will expose two push fasteners that need to be removed. The outer shoulder belts slip out eaisily. If you have the center shoulder belt, things are more complicated, but basically, it comes out through the hole. You need to undo the bolt at the floor end of the shoulder belt (also holds the clip for the right side belt), remove the plastic trim piece, and the put the trim piece, belt and buckle through the hole. The the rear deck panel lifts and comes forward and out. You should be able to disconnect the speaker wires after lifting the speakers out, but it might be easier to do it from the trunk first. Go slow, be careful, and have fun. With the Bose system (like mine), the rear deck speakers are sub-woofers only, the rear door speakers are full range. There are 4 fasteners that hold the rear seat back in place at the top. Use a large flat screwdriver pushed down between the seat back and the rear deck to locate and push down on the fasteners to release the seat back.

lobsterman · May 2001

to matrixfrog and mordecai24, i too have experienced these same two problems on my 97 classic. they come and go away however quickly. when the pedal sticks, i sharply tap it with my foot. with the brakes, again i just tap it and it becomes normal. however when doing this it sounds like the pads are grinding but it goes away.
to uhlme, try warranty gold. i got my 97 in feb. of 2000 with 37k miles. purchased a diamond plan from WG in aug., 2000 for $2000 that covers upto 150k miles and 5 years from time of purchase. WG has been great in handling 3 claims for me so far. new radiator, replaced alternator and replaced both front hub bearing assemblies. i now have 64k miles and will be looking for tires soon. has anyone ever hear of FULDA tires? they are suppose to be the best selling tires in germany. they are quite inexpensive, about $85 each for the classic. any suggestions?

matrixfrog · May 2001

How does the EGR valve seriously effect the way the cars runs? Im just wondering incase it ever goes bad on mine. I was thinking about getting a new one cause Im gonna do a tune up and they're cheap but I just wanted to know what the symptoms of it were.

I seen a Grand Am the other day and it looked like it had classic Aurora rims on it. Very strange.

I've noticed the weather makes my car run differently. The more humid it is outside the better my car runs. My friends noticed it too so I know it's not just me. Anyone else experience something like this?

jim242 · May 2001

This is just carbon built up in the throttle body assemble.. Just have the cleaned and you will be all set

matrixfrog · May 2001

I just read your post again seegirt and I noticed that it costed $400 to have your EGR valve replaced. $400 for an EGR valve??? All they are is a little piece of plastic with a beebee it arnt they??? $400 woa thats a lot.

seegirt · May 2001

Hey Guys,
I checked the price for the part alone at the time. I think it was some $200.00 so I wonder if we are discussing the same thing. I now know where it is located, not that difficult at all to get to. I researched it online at the time and I saw for about $200 as I mentioned.
The car would stall doing 80 on I-476. You lose power steering, power brakes, I would shift to neutral and restart on the fly, but the engine went into the survival mode. The dealer tracked it on the first try and it has never been a problem.

jearnhardt · May 2001

I just sold my 2000 Bravada, and in the interest of no monthly payment, I am considering a 1995 Aurora. Miles are a bit high (95,000), but I've had worse... at least it's a V8... If I go for it, I'll pay around $6000, maybe less, but I want to hear what you folks have to say about possible problems. I've read a bit of the history on this message board, but I'm not finding any major problems listed.

I can live with noisy window seals, but I can't live with a burned up transmission, or a blown engine.

The car drives well, sounds good, looks great and has been dealer maintained.

I just want to know if the '95 model had any particular problems... Any help is much appreciated.

BTW -- If I make this purchase, I'll be back for advice on upgrades/modifications

--j

matrixfrog · May 2001

Jearnhardt - Buy this car cause I need someone to talk about upgrades/mods with. I dont own a 95 but I think there were a few minor problems but nothing major (ie cupholder) but I would ask Henry or Zinc, they are very knowledgable on the Aurora.

Seegirt - Was it the fuel pressure regulator? When you take off the plastic shroud on the top of the engine it is on the reight side and the EGR is on the left (I think). I cant imagine paying $200 for an EGR valve but with these cars anything is possible.

marclr911 · May 2001

Just bought my first Aurora: a '95 I/ 45K on it - a real gem and I love it! It came with a 30 day dealer warranty on it and I've already had them fix the brakes (turned both rotors), put new tires on it, and check the drivers seat controls. I've asked them to look at a stutter problem in the engine and they either are ignoring it or can't find it. Yesterday they said the spark plug wires were arcing and they replaced those. But the engine is still "missing": at slow steady acceleration, under 50 mph, it feels like the tarns is slipping or the engine is missing or something... I'm no etch so this is difficult to describe. But my wife drove it and also felt it. Is this a problem that everyone else here is aware of? I'd love to be able to walk in and tell them to look at I and fix it. My warranty is out in 3 days. (Yes, I know I should get an extended...) Thanks.

pat · May 2001

Pardon me again. I asked this a couple of weeks ago, and no one responded one way or the other. If you are not interested, no problem, I'll leave you alone about it, but in case many of you just missed my post, I'll try one more time.

Would you be interested in having your own space in our Owners Club section? (Your Bonneville 'cousins' seem to love theirs!)

For those who might not know, the Owners Club is a dedicated folder where you can have as many discussions as you would like. Take a look at some of them here to get an idea of the possibilities. You will see that the various clubs have separate discussions for things like introducing yourselves, posting pictures, maintenance issues and whatever other related topics the groups may find of interest.

This discussion will remain here on the Sedans board, but will be linked to the Owners Club folder as well, making it accessible from either place.

You can "subscribe" to the entire owners folder, which makes reading all the posts in the various discussions very easy to do. You will also eventually have the opportunity to have regularly scheduled owners' chats if you are interested in doing so.

Let me know if you have any questions. If this sounds like a good idea, just give me a couple of positive posts and I'll get the ball rolling.

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

matrixfrog · May 2001

Question for you marclr911 - If you accelerate hard does it backfire?

gisom · May 2001

I checked the price at autozone parts in chicago area and the egr runs 150.00 for my 95

matrixfrog · May 2001

sorry my mistake. you are right. I was thinking PCV valve. Major difference between that and EGR.

zinc1 · May 2001

The Caddy dealer near me says the EGR valve needs replacing and quoted me $250.00/2hrs.

autobahn95 · May 2001

Pat,
i would be very interested in signing up to an owner's club. it's a great idea.
please keep us posted as to when you set it up.
thanks!

Henry · May 2001

Personally, I am not interested in an owners club because I think it is easier to see what people are saying by just checking this one forum as opposed to multiple folders. This topic does not post at the same rate as say the Bonneville board (close to 1500 postings), so I am not sure that we gain anything by spliting up the postings into different subtopics.

IMHO.

seegirt · May 2001

It was an EGR valve and I had it replaced by the Cadillac Olds dealer. He diagnosed it in a heartbeat. The cost of the part was something like $265. I like the no nonsense,quick service so I don't price shop for it. $265 and two hours at about $80/hr. ...pricey but not out of control.
Of course you can buy the part and replace it yourself assuming you have figured out what went wrong and what to replace to fix it.I guess if I knew that, I'd be mechanic.

The fuel pressure regulator...now when that was on the blink, the car ran once started, but was difficult to start and once it did, you saw and smelled it.

dharnett · May 2001

You guys run a great forum but it's taking me too long to read through the thousands of messages so I'd like to tap into your infinite wisdom directly:
I want an Aurora and am considering a 98 with 100k "executive/highway" miles (Mileage doesn't scare me; my Lumina has 200k+). The price seems ok. It's loaded with every available option. Other than the fact that it's white, it's my dream car. Any thoughts or warnings before I take the plunge?

matrixfrog · May 2001

Consider an extended warrenty. Might be hard to find with those miles. The Aurora is for the most part a reliable car but can be costly to repair. I didn't get a extended warrenty but I'm saving a little bit of money on the side incase something does happen.

I think it was Henry or Zinc that mentioned checking the black plastic piece under the front bumpe for cracks/abuse. That will give you some sort of an idea as to how well the previous owner took care of it/drove it.

matrixfrog · May 2001

Ok, out of the couple months I've owned my car I've came up with a hit and miss list for the Classic Aurora.

HIT
Most everything you could ask for in a car comes standard.
4.0 DOHC 32 Valve 250hp
The whole engine/tranny combo is perfection.
The doors look sweet when open due to the framless door.(not sure what to call it.)
Trunk hinges are mounted where it wont hit on objects in the trunk. (great for speaker boxes)
The battery under the back seat.
It's aerodynamic looks
The DIC.
The mounting posistion of the trunk release, fuel door, and the seat posistions.
Seats are comfortable and the middle console in the back is pretty nifty.
Ciggerette lighters in all ashtrays.
The leather or the side of the doors is cool

MISS
Back gets sweaty from the leather in the summer. A/C seats would be nice.
Middle console seems in akward place. Hard to organize things in there. (Maybe its just me)
front seat cup holders seem a little too cheap.
The tail lights dont light up all the way across. When lights are off dont really notice it.
The rear plastic blower directors broke in my car too easy. (I often have 5 people in my car.)
Would of been nice to be RWD.
Cant turn off a/c when front defoggers are on.
Cars wieght it a lil on the hefty side.
Would of liked to see a different option for rims.
I dont like where they mounted the speakers. Would of liked to see the tweeters in the dash or at least angled differently and 3 1/2's (I think thats what they are) mounted a little differently. (More angled towards the person sitting in the corisponding seat.)
Turning ratio could be a little better but not much
Magnasteer. Im the type of person that likes to feel the road. Can be a bit too easy to steer.
The seek button on the turning wheel - Can go up a track but not down a track.
Heated seats for the back passengers.

All Iv'e come up with for now. I have to get back to work or boss is gonna kill me.

pat · May 2001

Okay, I have one "yea" and one "nay" so far.

Henry, I promise it won't be hard to keep up with the posts in different discussions if you just "Subscribe" to the whole Owners folder, then use "Read Subscriptions" to read the new posts.

It gives you an opportunity to have regularly scheduled live chats, if you want to do so. And a separate topic in which you can post pictures, which are then more easily accessible as time goes on. That would also be true for a maintenance topic or any other subdivision of this conversation you might choose to have.

As most of you have probably discovered, it is very difficult to search through previous postings here on our new platform. Many of the folks in the owners club are enjoying have smaller, more focused discussions in which to "store" information that can be easily retrieved at a later date.

Anyway, these are just my thoughts - I certainly don't mean to push anyone into anything you aren't interested in. Just feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

arcoates · May 2001

I have a question- there is a red light strip on the rear hindquarters of my Aurora. I thought it was activated with the turn signals, but it doesn't. So I tried the rear foglights- nothing either. What does that strip do? It doesn't look like a reflector strip, and it doesn't reflect at night, so what is it?~ A.R.

zinc1 · May 2001

Aurora with spoiler rear view.

Henry · May 2001

I do not have the 2K1, but I would guess that the strip is the top mounted brake light. this would explain why it never lights up for you since no one is pressing the break.
IMHO

Henry · May 2001

My alarm has a bypass switch under the dash towards the floor board. Am I the only one that has this??? The dealership that I purchased the car from had a habit of doing wierd things to the alarm system. The bypass switch looks like a toggle switch. Also, recently, my security light came on while I was driving. Has this ever happened to any of you Classic guys/gals????

By the way, are there any women in this forum???

Come on Ladies speak up!!!

wingnut396 · May 2001

Hi all,

I am about to do a front brake job on my 98. I checked at autozone, oreilly, etc.. and can get OEM rotors for about 40-60 bucks. On carparts.com, I found what look to be nice vented, hi performance rotors for about 120.

Should I expect to be changing rotors often? The only reason I have to change this one is that a pad or something broke and I now have a big gouge in the left front rotor.

Any ideas on pads as well. Thanks all

to Pat, I like the idea of an owners page. Another vote for yes....

dslay2 · May 2001

If you have a Classic, and your are talking about the rear quarters these strips are lights

autobahn95 · May 2001

Wingnut,
i am also looking for front rotors and pads.i have a 95 Classic. i haven't been out pricing yet. my right front rotor is fine, but my left front is also gouged slightly on the outside only. i have found slotted rotors at RSMracing.com. they are 90$ each. i haven't seen anything yet on decent brake pads. please keep us updated as to what you find out.
thanks!

dishwish · May 2001

To: Hardesty & Zinc....... Thanks for the input on the pedal buzz (re# 872-873-874-886). I am still tempted to take it to another dealer and have their mechanic take a drive and see if they say the same thing, "That is normal in all Auroras". Will keep you posted.

To you with the "autobahn package"....... If you want to hit 139mph, come to North Dakota. The highways, are with stretches of 30 to 40 miles, with no curves, no traffic, no stop lights, and hardly any highway patrol. The only thing you might have to watch out for, are the deer.

arcoates · May 2001

No I am talking about the 2K1. But that would make sense Henry. I'll have to have someone step on the brake and look for myself. Thanks~ A.R.

hardesty · May 2001

The LEDs at the top of the rear window are the CHMSL (center high mounted stop lamp). If you have not yet seen this thing on, you should know that there can be no doubt in the mind of anyone behind you that you are on the brakes. The small red strips on the lower rear sides are reflectors only, no lights. The tail lights are visible from the side and act as side marker lights. I am considering putting lights behind the reflectors just give a consistent look, to match the front amber side lights. Just for fun, on a really dark night, turn on the rear fog lights. You will find out why the owner's manual says not to turn them on unless it is really foggy. From my driveway, these things turn the white house across the street bright red.

larryfl · May 2001

Well, I've owned my '95 for just over 2 weeks now and have put nearly 1700 miles on it, mostly on Florida interstates with the cruise control set just under 80 MPH.

My first observations / questions:

-The car drives great. Engine is strong and pulls solidly and smoothly up through 90+ (haven't gone any faster yet).
-Gas mileage is not great, but not bad either. According to the DIC I'm getting about 21-22 at 80MPH.
-I had a fairly severe shimmy at speeds over 70. Went back to the dealer and they put on a new set of Continental ContiTouring(?) tires. Seems to have fixed it. Rock solid (if not somewhat softly sprung) at 80+.
-Bose stereo is excellent and the steering mounted controls make it real easy to manage around the cell phone (car kit mounted, of course).
-Seats are generally comfortable,-with every adjustment imaginable - but allow for little or no air circulation (see below)
-Brakes are excellent. Dealership put new brakes all around when I bought it. Pedal is solid and the car stops. quickly (especially for it's size).
-DIC is a GREAT TOY

Minor gripes / areas to modify:

-The car is sprung somewhat soft for my taste. Maybe the shocks are worn (51K miles)? It has the rear load leveling suspension so I suspect there aren't shocks back there. What is the recommendation for a good set of gas shocks up front? What can be done to stiffen up the rear?
-I'll probably replace the anti-sway bar w/ a '97/'98 set. Thanks Henri for that suggestion. I think with the stiffer ASBs and stiffer shocks, the ride will be much improved.
-After 3-4 hours in the car, the back of my pants/thighs are soaked w/ sweat from the seats. Very embarrising when you walk in to that important business meeting. :-( Does anyone have any recommendations for seat covers/cushions that might make it more comfortable without looking too bad?
- Yes, the cup holders are original and suck. Thanks again, Henri for the heads up. They're on my list to be updated.
-Front cover/bra. I've spent too much time already cleaning bugs and stuff off the front of the car, due to my highway driving. Anyone got a recommendation for a front cover or bra to protect the nose? Does oldsmobile sell one and/or do other companies make a custom fit for the Aurora?

All in all, when you you consider that for (in my case) $11K I bought a car with only 50K miles, the styling, performance and potential of the Aurora, you can bet I'm pleased.

Thanks to everyone for their posts. Even when all I do is lurk, it's a wealth of info.

Larry

matrixfrog · May 2001

Henry - I dont think I have a switch but I will check on my way home. I've gone over the manual dozens of times and don't remember anything about it. I've never had the security light come on while I was driving. Only way I know to make it come on is to open the door and if you did this while you were driving the door ajar warning light would come on the DIC. Do you have an aftermarket alarm? I was wondering if you had heard anymore about the conversion to autobahn package.

Zinc - Do you know what exactly is different on the autobahn. I went to your site and seen the package costs $352. Would it be worth it to buy this or not. Is there a way to convert without paying that much? Is that just a different axle ratio and tires? I dont know what the axle ratio is so someone please tell me. How would I get the governer to cut off the engine at 139 instead of 111? I think the $352 might be better spent on other performance mods.

Henry · May 2001

The front sway bar is from the 98 Aurora, The rear Bar is from the Cadillac.

Suspension - There are ahocks in the back of the car. If you want to stifen the ride, you should get the Cadillac replacement shocks. I am not sure of the part number, but caddie should know. If Not, just replace with the factory ones (I did). I put KYB's in the front. However, again, check the Caddie line.

SOFT RIDE????? _ NEVER thought I would hear someone say that the car rides too soft. Granted, I have stiffen my ride with my mods tot he car. However, even from the factory the Aurora has a stiff ride compared to other sedans. I have thought from the beginning that it rides a little rough (i.e. sports car rough) for a car its size.

Henry · May 2001

People over in the Bonneville forum have been saying that the Magnasteer is adjustable. Some Pontiac dealers know how do to this (and some don't).

I am wondering if anybody knows if OUR magnasteer is adjustable?? If no one knows for sure, can we start asking our dealerships about it (on the theory that some will know and some will not know).

Matrixfrog - Hey Neo! - I been meaning to mention this but kept forgeting to post about the magnaSteer until I saw your message.

redskin024 · May 2001

just wondering, but whats up with the "hey neo" thing?? thanks
also how come your profile doesnt say that you drive an aurora

hardesty · May 2001

The MagnaSteer II on the 2001 Aurora is adjustable. There are 3 settings, less firm, factory, and more firm. They are set with a Tech2 scan tool. MagnaSteer II is part of the PCS system, MagnaSteer, I believe, just had speed variable effort (my father's 1995 Cutlass Supreme with the twin-cam 3.4 V6 has it). I do not know if the classic has MagnaSteer or (in later years) MagnaSteer II, but I suspect that since the 1995 was not OBDII, that it is not adjustable. Later years, with the OBDII connection, might be adjustable. Anyone out there have the service manuals for the 1996-1999 Aurora?

larryfl · May 2001

Cadillac rear shocks and sway bar??!!? - that's interesting. Sounds like you and I drive similar. Regular sedan suspension is WAY TOO soft for me (In fact, I almost bought a police cruiser, simply because I really liked the suspension/ride on it - just too damn little creature comforts for me in my old age).

I like the KYB idea. I will look into that. Question: Which caddy model do they pull the shocks from? And are they that much firmer than stock?

Zinc: I saw on your web page the "Custom and various" page in the gallery. Some of these accessories are really nice. How do I find them? Specifically the custom wheels in the first pic. Also there is one with the front cover/bra. I'd be interested to know where to get these.

Thanks

wingnut396 · May 2001

Thats weird. My 98 is also gouged on the outside, outer diameter of the left rotor. I'll check your site.

Might just go with the autozone brand. Will be taking the first LONG trip soon, Baton Rouge, LA to St. Louis and beyond. I need to get it done while I have the time

Wingnut

matrixfrog · May 2001

Wingnut396 - Autozone should offer 3 different brake pads, one which is pretty much OEM, another lasts longer and gives off less brake dust and a total carbon fiber pad. I have not changed the ones on my aurora yet but when I owned my avenger I bought the ones that are suppsoed to last longer. I knew the rotors on my venge were warped but I did not have the money to buy the cross drilled ones that I wanted. They helped out a lot on my rims, not very much brake dust. They were also warrentied. Since my rotors were warped they would eat the pads kinda quickly. I would just take them off, go back to autozone, they would punch in some stuff on the computer, and give me new ones for free with the same warrenty. 3 sets of pads for the price of one set. Not bad. Just thought I would share my experience...

zinc1 · May 2001

Matrix - The Autobahn Package includes 3.71 axle ratio (standard is 3.48), P235/60VR16 BSW AS tires(standard is P235/60SR16 BSW AS), 139mph limiter (standard, I think, is 110mph). Beyond that I don't know. Probably means slower acceleration for Autobahn from 0mph with wider axle, don't know how much. And, of course, the V-rated tires cost more. The package price of $352 was from the factory, I would expect it to be much higher if you had it done now. From what I've heard - from various sources - there isn't a PCM that will change the limiter, it is possible, but no one will do it.

Redskin024 - I think Henry's calling him Neo from the movie Matrix - his profile says he owns a 95 Aurora, maybe you have to login to see it(??)

Larryfl - The first pic was from Razzi.com. The ground effects kit is theirs but I dont know where they got the rims. (link here) The two bras in the pics are from different manufacturers, but I don't know who they are. The second looks like a Saddleman LeBra, I have that one on my Aurora (also in the Gallery). Bought it at a local Kragen. There's a problem with pre-owned cars though: If your car was painted, Saddleman suggests you don't use a bra. I found out why: It causes the clearcoat to 'cloud' or appear 'burned'. Costs $$ to repair.

Hope it helps
Rex

larryfl · May 2001

I have no idea if my car has been painted. It is a '95 with the beige, or light cooper metallic paint. If it's still original, it looks great. No scratches or anything like that. Of course the dealership can do wonders in reconditioning these things. My problem is that I do a lot of highway driving in bug infested areas (All in central and south Florida). What a mess. I would only install it when I travel, but that's still 2-4 days a week. Does yours fit good? Does it have room for that silly front license plate holder that's on mine?

BTW, I couldn't help reading your "log book" on your web page a few days ago. Makes me glad I spent the $$ on the GM bumper-to-bumper. If if makes you feel any better, the Q45 I traded in on this cost me, the warranty company, and Infiniti over $28K in service/repair during the 3 years I had it. I feel like I got a bargain with the Aurora!

Larry

Oldsmobile Aurora

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