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Lift it from the Monte or take the 4-spoker from the Vette...but give it a sporting steering wheel.
Neil
emc
The Impala is a much more comfortable car compared to the GP. >>
The Impala isn't exactly a looker, never has been. The GTP of 1997-2003 looks alot better then the Impala with its big butt syndrome and dumb oversized circular lights and underpowered 200 horse engine with no supercharger. whats up with that? Even the old man's Regal has a L67 option.
Impala is softer and not as fun to drive. The GTP handles alot better and more fun and sporty to drive. It now posts a best in class .82 - .83 skidpad. Impala is only .78. Not to mention the GTP having The newest and latest Series 3 3800 with 260 hose. Impala only currently has 200 meager horse. Even when it finally gets its overdue supercharger it will only make due with the old series 2 240 horse that dates back to 1996.
You are getting more for you dollar with the GTP, including the exclusive tap shifting, works very well. Better then chrysler's autostick. yes the GTP does ride harsher then the Impala, but is alot more fun to drive then the old man Impala.
The ultimate deal is on a leftover 2003 GTP, $4,000 rebate and 240 horse. 2003 Impala will cost the same or more only have the weak 200 horse engine.
Not to mention the Impala is old.. now in its 4th year? Need a redesign.
This is opinion and I still like the Impala w/sport package.
<<<The Impala is a much more comfortable car compared to the GP. >>
Yup - sat in a GTP and my head was squashed with the sunroof. No back seat room at all...especially compared to the Impala. The GP even looks small in person.
<<<<Impala is softer and not as fun to drive.
Agree completley. Why they still don't put 55-series tires on the LS package is a mystery to me. Even the SS looks like it is wearing 60-series tires. Koni's are required on the Impala if you want a true ride.
<<<<You are getting more for you dollar with the GTP...
Agree again, but a blacked out SS is just bad [non-permissible content removed]. Period. When I see a black Impala LS or the pics of the SS I drool...not so with the new GP
<<<<The ultimate deal is on a leftover 2003 GTP, $4,000 rebate and 240 horse.
If you can stand the dated dash/interior and the dated front-end. The rear is still cool looking.
When is Edmunds going to get real forum software!!
I have driven an 04 GTP.
And I am patiently waiting for the hatchback version of a Mazda 6, though I am tempted by the Acura Japanese Accord and the coming turbo Legacy (next summer).
But another Impala or a GTP? Nope. Too many features de-LETED by de-Lutz. I prefer my GM cars with the 'surprise and delight' features that are now, for the most part, gone.
75% city driving/25% highway driving. Is this typical for the rest of you guys? My driving is mostly from work and back and the commute is fairly short, around 7 miles each way.
Would I get 30mpg if the car was driven for long periods of time until the engine is fully warmed?
The car only has 12K miles.
My local dealer will sell me a new 2003 base Impala (base engine) with the 1SB option package for $17,770 delivered (after $3K rebate, plus tax, fees, etc.). And he doesn’t care if I buy one from his lot or if I order it. This seems almost too good to pass up, even though I don’t really need a new car.
Ninety-five percent of my driving is between 35-50 mph, with virtually no city and maybe five percent pseudo-highway driving. I have a light foot and always break in my new cars properly.
For the last three years I’ve been driving a 2000 Mits. Galant with the four cylinder (EPA 21/29) and consistently average 26-27 mpg in the warm weather (western NY) driving as described above. Can I realistically expect to get 24+ mpg with the Impala driving the way I do?
I consistently pull 20+mpg. 305-320 miles per tankful of around 15 gallons. I have gotten into the 19's a couple of times and will sometimes pull 21-22 mpg.
I am a realtor so I do not drive the same miles everyday. I put about 20K a year on it.
When I drive suburban miles it will get 24+ mpg no problem.
My best is 29-30 mpg at 79-80 mph.
My worst highway mileage, going from 0'elevation to 2900' above sea level at 80+mph, is 27.5 mpg.
My best is 34+mpg at 65 mph.
I take my mileage every fill up.
Neil
Neil
Total fills - 167
Average Mileage - 10.48 litres/100km - 22.64 mpg (US)
Actual Best Mileage - 7.44 litres/100km - 31.62 mpg (US)
Actual Worst Mileage - 12.63 litres/100km - 18.63 mpg (US)
Average Range Per Tank - 616km - 385 miles
The Driver Information Centre mileage is averaging a 15% error rate (higher).
Brad
This was the only thing preventing me from seriously considering buying the Impala and now that several owners have offered their experience I guess I can safely assume that in my case I’ll probably achieve 24+ MPG around town. I’ve noticed that breaking in a new car properly plays an important role in how well the car performs in the future. After breaking in my cars I’ve (thus far) always wound up getting closer to the highway EPA number in my normal everyday driving.
Has anyone recently purchased a new 03 base Impala with the 1SB option package (and free dealer mudguards) for less than $17,770 (after rebate, plus tax and licensing)? That’s the deal they’re offering me and based on online true cost information it seems to be a very good one.
22.64 mpg average........31.62 best
if you had DOD would you get the alleged 40mpg that some have professed here.........
My DIC shows 2.5 mpg high and 2.5 gallons low, or there abouts. If it says it has used 12 gallons I know I better find a gas station quick.
It also reads 3 degrees high. 86 degrees shows 89.
I am constantly amazed at the temp fluctuations in my town. There are microclimates everywhere.
I can go inland and it will be 5-8 degrees hotter than where I live.
We are about 3 blocks from the harbor. It will read 83 degrees and I can drive to our beachhouse
and it is 69. 10 miles by car. 4 miles as the crow flies. Of course the ocean hasn't heated up yet. But the DIC just brings into focus why our ancestors headed to the oceans and the mountains in the Summer.
Another cool thing is to watch the temp drop while on a bridge and then go back up again.
All within 2 miles.
Now, if they can just provide an aluminum plenum......
Also, check out Carpoint.com today..the Impala is the most efficient full size sedan according to the EPA.
I didn't see the vaunted Toyota Avalon anywhere listed....hmmmmmm Chevy beat Toyota?
canadiandriver.com/articles/rp/03impala.htm
I'm a little concerned with the intake manifold problem from reading the posts on this site. Also, any concerns with the 3800 engine? But a lot of repairs can be made for $5700.
Thanks for your input.
--Dan
That was 2 years ago so I don't remember the exact amount.
Also one of the best features in this car are the CD Stereo (Make sure you get the cruise control and steering wheel mounted radio controls) and the powerful A/C...you can hang meat off the dash vents....the air is that cold (I live in Florida so I know better).
The 3800 series II V6 engine is a very cheap engine to maintain due to its simple design (Pushrod) and fewer moving parts. Also the 3800 has a metal timing chain, not a rubber timing belt (Not sure if Accord and Camry still use rubber timing belts) so it does not require replacement before 150K miles at the very least.
Camry and Accord have excellent V6 engines as well, but these are DOHC (Double or single overhead cam engines) that give you more power in the upper power band but also are more complex, have more moving parts and require more expensive yearly maintanance stops.
The 3800 is a pushrod that has gobs of torque down low (225 pounds feet of torque @ 4,000 RPM) and therefore this car gives you the ability for strong take offs and ease of merging in freeway lanes. You push the gas pedal and off it goes.
This engine is extremely fuel frugal more so than the smaller lower 3 litre range engines in the Accord and Camry. I have pulled 34+MPG in the highway @ 70 MPH and 20MPG in the city all on 89 midgrade fuel (You can use 87 octane as well).
The Impala's powertrain while not cutting edge technology gives you a very solid, smooth and durable powertrain system for years to come.
If you have any more questions, feel free to post them.
For example, a car that invoices for $24K should cost you $18,300 after rebate and your GM earnings.
Of course any trade-in will alter the pricing. I might be stating the obvious...but just in case...
This is after the $3,000 rebate, no advertising fees, plus tax and licensing, with free mudguards. This is a little more than $100 over invoice. I'm wondering if the dealer would do better...since it did not take a lot of negotiating to get the price down. The only remaining factor holding me back is the quick depreciation. Should I take this price?
I checked several online pricing sites and all came up with an invoice $17,650, after the rebate, for the car I described. I don't have any GM card discounts or anything else. Even at $16,500, I would buy it today. Could you please tell me how I might get it for around $16k, plus or minus? Is there something I've missed?
Also, I've got a 2000 base w/3.8l engine; averaging @ 23MPG overall. Oddly enough, that's also the average I had in my '84 2.0l 4-cylinder Buick Skyhawk I bought new in college. Hard to believe a car as big as the Impala, with so called "outdated" mechanicals, can pull this off.
Finally, we just bought a new '03 4-cylinder Accord for my wife last week. I've only driven it a couple of times, and while the interior is a notch or two above the Impalas (although the Honda's streering wheel mounted radio/cruise buttons don't light up at night), I much prefer the more comfortable seats, greater shoulder/hip room, etc. to the Accord.
I think if you buy a car and drive it forever (to the point that resale isn't an issue), the Impala is the way to go (especially if you've got GM Card money to lay down on top of other incentives). If you trade regularly, I'd probably lean toward the Honda.
Thanks.
There is a flood of GM cars and others at the auctions.
Plus dealers make more on used cars than they used to.
In '83 I sold my 4 month old 6000 mile stripper Z28 for $10,500 to a dealer. I paid $11,678 for it.
That is about $1200 depreciation.
If I did that today they probably would have given me $8500 for it.
Thanks
First, NEVER walk into the dealership without looking in the weekend classified ads. Spend two weekends looking at the ads to monitor who's selling what and at what price. Patience is the key. Knowledge is power!! It's easier to buy a car when it is on sale, than it is by walking into a dealership blindly to hassle with the negotiation process.
Secondly, my experience is that sales promotions are typically heavy during the holiday weekend. Well guess what? Memorial Day is end of this month! You have a major holiday, plus it's at the end of the month!! Can you say "Sales Quota"? Ka-ching$$! More savings...
Third, if you find a car that you like is on sale (most are loss leaders), you have to arrive to the dealership as soon as they open up. Sales promotions typically begins on Friday or Saturday. Get there early! AFter buying four new cars in the past, I have never had a dealer that told me he "sold" the car already. Sometimes these loss leader cars that are on sale 'may' be a sales gimmick to draw you into their showroom. IF so, don't get upset if they told you "it's sold". Walk out the door. Remember, patience is the key to savings!
Fourth, after two-three weeks of looking in the paper, and not finding anything you like, you can now walk into the dealership to begin your negotiation process. You must understand that EVERYTHING is negotiatable, including advertising fees. Currently, GM is offering $3K rebate. That means GM is paying you $3K to buy this car. You also have to negotiate with the dealer on his selling price. A fair offer on a LS is $2500 off MSRP. Thus, $3K rebate plus $2.5K off MSRP yield you a total savings of $5.5K off total MSRP. Throw in your GM rebate and you can easily buy the LS for less than $20K!
Good luck! Keep us inform!
If you purchase the car don't both with the extended warranty yet when the time comes after 30 months or so of ownership you decide to keep the car for years..you can negotiate an extended warranty up until the 36 months or 36000 miles are up. If before you sold the car or it was written off in an accident you are out that money you paid for that warranty..