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Comments
As for what's wrong, suggest they test the horn after removing it from your vehicle. This will help determine if it's the horn or some problem with the power from your vehicle.
It may be an issue with the power going to that second note. Do you remember if it was the same note going bad both times? That may help isolate a particular power lead.
Good luck and don't feel bad about demanding your vehicle work as advertised. A silly sounding horn is something that will bother you everytime you hear it. Sure, it isn't a necessity for driving the car but it's very important to your peace of mind. Why do you think Japanese nameplates now have American style horns rather than the wimpy little "meep, meep" horns of the past?
On your other reply about the trunk lid, beware driving with the trunk open, even slightly. The carbon monoxide danger shouldn't be underestimated.
I just noticed that my cruise control isn't working. Bought the car in Nov '04, so just over 2 years old. No extended warranty. It just won't "engage," as Captain Picard of Star Trek would say.
Is this still covered by any sort of original warranty? I know it's over one year, but there were some plus year items covered on some things. Not sure.
About how much does it cost to fix the cruise control? If it's not covered, should I try to find a mechanic? I don't have a non-dealership mechanic yet.
Thanks!
If you bought the car a little over two years ago, you should still be under the original 3yr/36,000 mile warranty unless you've passed the mileage limit. The cruise would be covered under the warranty.
As for the cost of repair, it would depend on what's actually wrong. But, it would likely be a reasonable repair bill.
How do I remove the cap?
I see that there is a bar across the top of the battery that must be removed, but otherwise it does not appear to be a big job.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks1
Thanks again for your help.
My question is, is this timeline normal for batteries today, or are Interstate batteries more prone to failure? I'm faced with taking this one back for the pro-rated difference on another Interstate, but to be honest I'm considering just going to AutoZone and starting over. The notion of a 3-year free replacement sound pretty appealing.
Alternatively, could my battery failures be a sign of some other (alternator) problem?
The Duralast standard battery is $69.99, including core, and the Duralast Gold (84 month) is $79.99. I paid $72.99 with a discount. Hope this helps!
The ISS is still noise free after the shoot of PB blaster months ago. to think people spent $$$$ replacing it when nothing was wrong with it. If the clunk comes back, another 20 cent squirt of PB again. j
Also, another plug for the Duralast Gold battery...it comes with 3 years of roadside assistance too; there's a card attached to the battery, and you call and activate it to get 3 years of emergency jump-start assistance. Considering the battery also has a replacement warranty for 3 years, at least I feel like this one might actually last for 3 years, and if it doesn't they'll eat the cost of coming out to jump-start my car.
This was the first time I've personally changed the battery (had it installed the other two times); it really wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be, especially with the instructions posted earlier.
I went back and looked at my records, and here's my battery history:
03/23/2000 - Drove it off the lot new (ordered car; built 03/14, so battery would have been fresh)
10/06/2002 - 43,189 miles (2 years, 7 months)
Original battery died; replaced w/Interstate MT78 $113.53
07/27/2004 - 69,095 miles (1 year, 9 months)
Original Interstate battery died; replaced w/same model (pro-rated under warranty) $72.80
02/29/2007 - 104,100 miles (2 years, 7 months)
2nd Interstate battery died; replaced with AutoZone Duralast Gold 78-DLG. $81.69
Considering my track record, I think getting the 3-year replacement warranty on the Duralast battery will likely pay off in the long run. I'm also glad I went back and looked at the prices paid, since I was feeling some guilt about not getting at least a pro-rated return on a 3rd Interstate...odds are it would have cost as much or more than the AutoZone battery, so combined with the roadside assistance that comes with the AutoZone purchase I feel even better!
I'm hoping to drive this car another 2-3 years, so hopefully this will be last battery I'll buy for this one.
I feel that if the car required a 30,000 mile service, it should have been performed prior to delivery.
I have found this dealer unresponsive to my complaints about this, and other problems. I've also failed to get any satisfaction from Chevrolet customer service. I've purchased many GM products in the last 40 years, most of them new. This is the LAST GM product, new or used, that I'll buy
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_fueladditives.asp?subCategoryID=11
Also, aren't gasolines suppose to include additives to keep fuel systems clean?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoqHPYIUtBM&NR
Yep, we sure do care.... It's good info. We may all have our own individual tastes as well as our own likes and dislikes, but one thing you'll find around here is that we all like to hear different experiences like this...
There's a Great bunch of Guys (and Gals) here...
Thanks for sharing your info....
Frank
experiencing speedometer problems with a 05 Impala LS. The first sign of trouble showed up the first time I drove the car for over an hour. I was on the freeway, going with the flow when I looked down to see that according to the speedometer I was going 120 MPH. It then continued to do a 360 and come all the way around and back to 40 mph. The dealer said they were having a lot of problems with the speedometers. If you have had this problem and got it resolved please tell me what it was and how did you fix it. The dealer is telling me: 1) what ever it is it’s not covered under warrantee and 2) I need a new cluster but first he need to run a $85.oo test to be sure. The cluster will cost up to $600.00. That is a lot to pay for a not sure if that's it reply.
Advanced Auto Electronics, Inc. - Speedometer & Instrument Cluster Repair
Well, help us understand this a little better and fill in the blank here....Why no warrantee..??!! This would normally be covered..!! Are you way over miles/ time...or ??
Frank
I received the plugs in the mail today, and on the instruction sheet the first thing it says is that "the timing of your engine must be adjusted to match the thirty percent (30%) faster firing of the LSG Halo plug. The failure to adjust your engine timing will void your warranty and can cause engine misfiring that can seriously damage your engine."
My question is, can the timing be adjusted on a 2000 Impala manually, or do I simply have to disconnect the battery and install the plugs? I found mention on another site that said if you've got an electronic ignition you just have to disconnect the battery, install the plug, and reconnect the battery...the car might run rough for 10 miles or so until it resets, but after that it should be fine.
Can any confirm that's all I'd have to do on the Impala? Has anyone else had any experience with these plugs?
So it sounds like I'd remove both battery cables, then replace the plugs as usual, and then reconnect the battery. But I should expect the car to run roughly initially (which would be very different from a typical plug change, since the car should run better right away). To be safe I think I may contact LSG and see if they can give me any insight related to my specific car though. If I hear anything different from them I'll post it here. And once I get up the nerve to install them I'll let you know how it went (and if I see any improvement in gas mileage).
I have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 55,000 miles on. When I start it cold, or often when I step on the gas and am pulling away from a stop sign or stop light, I hear a noise that sounds like water wooshing/clunking around under the hood. Best I can describe it. My have the extened warrenty until 75K miles. However, and of course, everytime I take to the dealership they havent been able to hear it. My wife and my mom comment on it all the time when we are driving. What could this be? Maybe I can point the dealer in the right direction.
Because the Halo plugs say you have to do them all at once, I figured I'd tackle the back side first (since this is my daily driver, and I don't want to get stranded). I'm sure I could get rough with the existing wires and force them off, but I'd rather not have to replace the wires too if I can help it.
Any advice/tips?