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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    just leave it in drive... my opinion anyway. I've heard rumors and reports that it saves transmissions to have it 3rd while in town, but I haven't found definitive proof. I have never had a problem leaving any vehicle I own in D, including my 04 Impala. It's quiet enough and smooth enough that I never feel the gear changes, but in my S-10, also with a 4 speed auto, while in town and at low speed (below 35 MPH), if I drop it from D to 3rd, it doesn't shift down because it is already still in 3rd. It's not till above 35 MPH that it shifts to D...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Just trying to think ahead as summer is coming and so is the heat, but I also want to keep up on prevenative maintenance. 04 Imp, with the 3.4 motor. 34K miles. It's only been a few thousand miles, but it has also been 3 years (build date was early-mid 04, can't remember exactly when, but it's coming up close to it's 4 year build date anniversary). Would it be wise and prudent to change to coolant out, or am I just being overly cautious?
  • randy714randy714 Member Posts: 2
    hi,i need to get to the wiper motor but don't know how to go about it.can someone please tell me how
  • lisa0721lisa0721 Member Posts: 1
    I was just told of the recall or settlement for the intake manifold of the Chevy Impala. We just had ours replaces for about $700 or so. The gasket was leaking, somehow causing the heater to not work. I couldn't get any heat to defrost my windows on those cold spring mornings. We also had a ignition sensor replaced just a month before the intake manifold. And yes, my steering wheel makes a lot of clicking noises when turning. Thanks for the info.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    the intake settlement is a done deal, they extended the warranty a few years but it is long past.

    the clunking is an easy fix, look under the dashboard for the ISS (intermediate steering shaft., they had a problem with them binding up because of the loss of lubracation. Take some wd-40 or any type of lube oil, you will see a rubber boot. inside that boot is a mini u-joint that slides on a splined shaft. peel back the boot and spay some stuff in there, your clunk is gone. You can also try putting some grease in there instead. I have to spray ours about once a year, a 5 minute job. Don't let the dealer try to sell you an ISS
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    A product called "PBBlaster" seemed to work pretty well for this too.

    Another thing I discovered towards the end of my Impala's time with me; if you wipe down the weather strip around the doors with silicon spray (spray it on a rag, then rub on the rubber to avoid over-spray) it REALLY quietened the ride. As the rubber dries out it starts to squeak, but applying silicon made mine sound as quiet as new (well, except for the occasional ISS clunking).

    (Oh, and if anybody cares, I DID finally find my pin set that I got for taking part in the 2001 Impala brochure...they were in the one stack of boxes in the garage that I didn't go through last time. Also found a couple of other items I cherished as much, that I'd accused my wife of throwing away, so had to eat a little crow on that one.)
  • zramilzramil Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: hi all, i have noticed sort of a low pitch noise in the cabin while breaking or just driving without pressing the gas pedal. weird thing is that there is no noise when breaking and I 1) press gas pedal, 2) press and keep holding power windows buttons or 3) turn on rear window defrost. Anybody had this or any ideas what that might be? bought this used wiht 60,000+miles just few days ago and there was nothing .. would appreciate any help. thanks.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I have noticed a coolant leak in my 2004 3.4l Impala. The car has 37,000 miles on it.

    I first noticed a couple days ago after I walked up to it after it had been parked awhile. How long it had been parked I don't recall. But I noticed a wet spot in front of the pass. front wheel. I also smelled that tell tale sign of coolant. I dip my fingers in the couple of spots and could tell it was coolant. A little concerned I popped the hood and checked the coolant level. It was a little low, but not too bad. I also hunted for where the drops could have come from. I couldn't really tell, but I could tell that at the bottom corner of the radiator, some coolant had leaked recently. I didn't worry about it much to be honest however and just told myself I would keep an eye on it.

    Well tonight was a good night to keep an eye on it. I walked into the garage and noticed a good sized puddle on the floor. Sure enough it was coolant. The car had been driven twice that day. First into town, a distance of about 20 miles round trip. The second trip was to the bank, a distance of about 3-4 miles round trip. It was after the bank trip that the car decided to leak. The previous trip didn't produce any leaks. I also didn't notice the when the leak happened because I didn't drive the 2nd time and it was this evening when I had noticed the leak, several hours after the car had been parked.

    So I popped the hood again and this time I spotted where I think the leak is coming from. I am posting pictures to hopefully clarify this. It appears to be at the top of the radiator at the mount right next to the cap. It appears to have been a semi-force-able spewage as there is evidence on the hood liner and the radiator hose. Again refer to the pictures. I started the car to see if I could duplicate this while I watched. Parked the car did nothing. So I took it for a spin around the block to warm it up.

    While driving I paid close attention to the temp gauge. It seemed to warm up much quicker than I seem to remember. That however could be attributed to the fairly warm night (about 70 F) and the fact that it had been driven just that afternoon on a warm day. The other times I paid attention to the warm up times were in the dead of winter when I watched the gauge to know when I could turn the heater on. As I drove, I noticed the gauge fluctuate. The first was when it got to the half-way mark, then it dropped just above a quarter and then rose again. Then it would rise, but not quite to the halfway mark and then fall a little. It did this during the entire time I drove. It never got above halfway, but it never stayed steady. I have never noticed this type of variation before. It may be because I don't pay attention to the gauge as I should, but I would think that if the temp gauge varied that much I would notice it?? I also do not drive the car much as it is my wife's daily drive and she wouldn't know what to look for. I was varying my speed from a residential speed of 25-30 MPH to a highway speed of 60 MPH, but the temp didn't seem to follow a pattern based on my speed.

    After I got home, I again popped the hood to look for any evidence it had leaked while driving. I could find no fresh evidence. I let the car run for a couple more minutes and then shut it off to see if the cooling down cycle would produce anything. It didn't. It still hasn't as of this post...

    So I am open to suggestions as to what it might be. Any thoughts?

    Pictures to help visualize the problem...
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  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Nice photos.
    It is unusual to have a coolant leak with only 37k on the vehicle.
    I suspect that you have a small leak in the radiator hose wich is leaking onto the serpentine belt and then getting sprayed onto the underside of the hood.
    You need to look closely at the hoses while it is running and see if one of the hoses is leaking. (Keep your hands clear of the pulleys, belts and fan!)

    Also, the picture that identifies the waterpump is correct. ;)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Even if the coolant hasn't been changed?? It has been 4 years, although it is DexCool which I have never liked, but it is supposed to last 5 years or 150K ???
  • cabbbaileycabbbailey Member Posts: 12
    I've been detecting a musty or dusty odor when I turn the AC off and the fan on, so I bought a new cabin air filter for my 2000 Impala. But for the life of me I can't find where it installs. I've looked behind the glove box, under the dash on both sides and even inside the engine compartment, but I can't find one. I was visiting another site that said on some models there is none. How can I determine whether mine even has one on my car, and if so, where it is located? :confuse:
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    My 2001 did not have but I put one in. Do a search for impala hq. In the how to section it tell you how to change it.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    You get to it from under the hood, on the passenger side; it's not really that complicated to do, but hard to explain...but the info on impalahq if I remember correctly give you step-by-step instructions that should be easy to follow. Even if your car didn't come with a filter, one can be installed (my 2000 didn't have one originally, but I put one in).
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I believe the "Cabin" air filter was only offered as an option on the Impala LS models.
    My 2002 Impala does not have a "Cabin" air filter.
    I am not sure how difficult it is to retrofit the cabin air filter into the non-equipted Impalas.

    :confuse:
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    The following link from the Wix Filter website indicates how to replace the cabin air filter. Click on the web link and go to section 7 of the brochure:

    http://www.wixconnect.com/assets/wixcabinairbrochure.pdf

    :shades:
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    That's pretty much the process; it doesn't seem intuitive to be going at things from under the hood, but once you figure it out it's really easy. And even if you have a base model, all the duct work and such is there so all you have to do is buy the filter and slip it in.
  • cabbbaileycabbbailey Member Posts: 12
    I took care of it during lunch yesterday. It only took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. I appreciate all the help. Thanks.
  • dmadsen14dmadsen14 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, the antifreeze is coming from the radiator cap and I would guess that is where yours is coming from also. I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap but it is still coming from the vent holes on the cap. I do not see it but I have traced the leakage to the cap and I have antifreeze in the same areas that you have. I have noticed that the cooling fans don't run when the ignition is shut off, I thought they were on a thermostat and would run after the car was shut off if needed. I think it over flows after it is shut off as I have the antifreeze on the driveway. Does anyone have any answers to our problem or is there something else that I need to report to help solve this issue.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Not sure -- I have been keeping a pretty diligent eye on it and I haven't seen a repeat of what I was seeing a few weeks ago. A couple of time it leaked quite a bit, then a not so much and now I am not seeing anything. Coolant levels are still full. So not sure what it is and so for now I am just watching it real close.
  • qwert12345qwert12345 Member Posts: 1
    The front left Hub Bearing on my 2000 Impala LS(3.8L), 91,280k mi., was bad, when the car was lifted you could shake the crap out of the wheel. Got it replaced and the car runs smooth. HOWEVER, now TRAC(Traction) turns off as soon as the car is turned on, the ABS light comes on and System Message: Service Traction System. I can't turn on Traction at all. If the light isn't there as soon the car is turned on, the light turns on as SOON as the car starts to move about an inch. The left Hub bearing just got replaced. It can't be a faulty part from the factory... I'm hoping. And SOMETIMES it's intermittent. I can't shoot the hub bearing itself(continuity[ohms]), it just shoots open(overload, infinite resistance) and I shot the wires back to the Electronic Brake control Module. The wires for the front left and right splice as one assembly back and the rear left and right HUBs splice as one assembly as well. The rear wires shoot good and the front ones shoot good. HAYNES manual has the schematics but they're pretty vague. So I'm asking for some other means of troubleshooting this problem. I'm not taking it to the dealer so they can make me bend over to pay an arm and a leg for this. SOMEONE HELP. FYI, before the Front, Left Hub bearing got replaced, I had the ABS light. SOMEONE HELP, losing my hair over this!!!
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    I had a similar experience where my ABS & Traction Control System shut down while driving. I own a 2001 LS. While driving on a sunny beautiful day, dry road, bells and whistles, Service Traction Control System, ABS light lit, Traction System shut down and could'nt be restarted. I went into a parking lot and restated the car. Doing this seemed to reset the problem and all was fine for a few miles when it happened again.

    I took the car to Mr Goodwrench. He found a bad wire harness going into the front right tire hub. The tips on the harness were a color green. He checked all the other hubs and all were fine with those conections. He replaced the wire harness on that wire, and afterwards all was fine. Check your harness tips. You might have a little corrosion. Goodluck.
  • 2000_impala2000_impala Member Posts: 3
    i was wondering if you know the 7 wire diagram.
  • 2000_impala2000_impala Member Posts: 3
    The whelen UHF2150B is the only type that wont disconnect your DRL. If you order it from Galls or Streichers, they will send it with a one sheet wiring guide to use it on non police model of impala. Basically shows your the 7 wires you need to splice to replicate what the quick connect on the police model would normally provide. It works great.

    Anyone know where to find this Diagram?
  • Perfect_impalaPerfect_impala Member Posts: 2
    It's easy to change the cabin filter. It's locate passenger side under hook and cowl, just open the hook from passenger side unscrew the plastic screw at windshield wiper but don't take off the wiper just take of one side of plastic piece, you will see it right there. Click the link below you will know it well

    http://www.wixconnect.com/assets/wixcabinairbrochure.pdf
  • mamawgibmamawgib Member Posts: 1
    Just curious if you went back to check the bad wire harness. I was just recently out of town and was stuck and had to pay out the "wazzu" to the same problem you just described. However; after I had new brakes, the right front bearing replaced plus a new caliber, My Service Traction System is still on, along with my TRAC off and my ABS light. Driving me crazy. After I seen the reply from Fathertyricius regarding the bad wire harness, I was curious if you had checked it out before I take mine back in to have it checked out again. With my cost already, I'm at ends at paying out.
  • shonnydshonnyd Member Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a Chevy 00 Impala LS Automatic. I was driving on the interstate when my car suddenly wouldnt accelerate. It slowly died down. Then i pulled over to the shoulder to cut my car off. I restarted it put it in gear and it wouldnt move. I know absolutely nothing about cars, but it was driving perfectly then it just stopped. if any one could help me and tell me what they think it may be...i would so gladly appreciate it....thanks!!!
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Could be a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump.

    If it restarted and the engine ran and you didn't move, it could be a transmission problem.
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    Your problem is the catalytic converter. My 01 LS did the same thing. My car was still in warranty when it happened, but I read that GM is honoring replacement of the catalytic converter if the car is under 120,000 miles. Once the catalytic converter was replaced, the car drove like brand new. Call GM for further info. Goodluck.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I have a 2004 3.4L Impala with about 40K miles. My wife has commented that sometimes it has been hard to start. She says it will take several cranks for it to finally turn over and she was wondering if this is normal. I say this because I don't drive the car on a regular basis and I haven't really noticed anything "unusual". However, it does take a couple more cranks than my other vehicles to start and there have been occasions that it has taken several cranks 6-7 before it starts. My other vehicles start on the first or second crank but they are totally different motors and so I have have just chalked it up to this motor taking a few cranks to start. Normal is 3-4 cranks which I don't think is too out of line?

    So my question is this? Is it normal for the 3.4L motor to take several cranks to turn over. What would cause it take several more cranks to start, like the 6-7 that my wife has mentioned?
  • rbraserbrase Member Posts: 9
    My 04 impala has cut out or hesitated on me (twice in the last 2 weeks) while driving down the highway at approx 70mph. It feels like I am running out of gas and then it catches and starts running without any issues. Someone told me that it could also be the fuel filter on the rail or the power train control module.
    Does anyone know how to replace a fuel pump? Do i need to drop the gas tank?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    To replace the fuel pump you will have to drop the gas tank. But I don't think your issue is a fuel pump. More likely it is a filter. A pump either works or it doesn't, at least in my experience. One day it works, the next it's gone. But it won't cause the hesitation you are experiencing, however a clogged fuel filter will. That is where I would start.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    If you have over 70,000 miles and you never changed your fuel filter, it may be time to replace it! Especially if you are in the habit of driving until the low fuel light comes on.

    If you have a habit of running the tank until its almost empty, all the dirt and residue gets sucked into the fuel filter causing it to clog.

    I would start by replacing the fuel filter. If that doesn't fix the problem, than you may have a "electronic" problem with a sensor or computer.

    Also, in an earlier post someone mentioned that some Impala's have defective catylitic converters. If your cat converter is clogged that would cause loss of power and cut outs.
  • edl79edl79 Member Posts: 14
    I have a different engine but had a similar problem with extended cranking and for me it was the crank position sensor.
    We have 2 Impalas with the 3.8L. The 2001 now has 103k and the 2004 has 120k.
    In Sep-06 at 92k the 2001 suddenly started cranking longer to start. This car had always started on 1 crank. The problem started 1 week before my 6yr/100k extended warranty expired.
    Dealer replaced fuel pump and ignition module under the warranty but that didn't fix it and they couldn't duplicate the problem and of course no codes.

    Then it started stalling out intermittenly too, but it always restarted. My wife only does local low-speed driving and it seemed to stall out when it was cold, like the first drive of the early morning, after going a few miles.
    Both problems occurred randomly for 2 months and I spent many hours searching the net for a most likely cause.
    Finally it stalled after going 100 feet - her first start after work- and wouldn't restart. Towed to the dealer and left it there for several days for them to try to duplicate the problem.

    I had seen in my research that the CPS could be the problem but the service mngr (who was a very good) said the flow charts don't point to the CPS for the 2 problems when combined.
    I said to replace it as a last try because we didn't have a drivable car anyway.
    End of story is they replaced it at no charge, and the car's been fine for 2.5 years. I got lucky - it could have been an intermittent electrical problem.

    Repair history for the 2 cars:
    2001 - upper intake coolant leak and cat converter (Chevy warranty), thermostat, fuel pressure regular, one rear ABS sensor, one front wheel bearing assembly, blower resister, fuel gauge sensor and the crank position sensor.
    2004 - I drive this one 500 miles a week - one oxygen sensor, a thermostat, one front wheel bearing assembly, and a slow leaking lower trans coolant line.

    Overall, not bad for 223k total, and if the CPS had been diagnosed quickly, no major problem issues. They also get serviced - fluids, filters.
    The cars look good, still feel solid and always plenty of power.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I'll keep my eye on the starting issue. So far it has always been reliable and never left us stranded. Then again, it's only got 40K on it. It is lucky to see a 10K a year. However it is only the the 3.4 How I wish I would have bought that gorgeous used 3.8 LS Impala instead of my NEW base Impala, but what's done is done. It's still been a good car.
  • oberstovoberstov Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problems. Just replace or charge your battery and all will work)))
  • oberstovoberstov Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problems. Just replace or charge your battery and all will work)))
  • dearmoredearmore Member Posts: 1
    what is the DIC? I am having probs with cruise, ac, blower, and headlight switch all seeming to be connected together. Mike
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    The DIC is the Driver Information Center. It is what displays all the info such as your check engine light, idiot light for the oil, battery, security and what not. It is the box in the right hand instrument bezel at the bottom. It is square and pixelated to change to the different icons to depict what ever needs to be depicted.

    Not sure what would be causing your problem, but I don't think it has anything to do with the DIC?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    time for the once a year oil change on the Imp... Since it rarely sees over 10K a year (it's a 2004-bought in October of '04 and only has 42K on it), I run Mobile1 and change it once a year. It was that time today. The only caveat?? Took me longer to change the air filter than it did to change to oil....

    oh ya - I also flushed out the coolant too.
  • bensettebensette Member Posts: 3
    Bought a used 2003 Impala 3.8L in March 2009. Service Traction System light goes on often, with ABS light and Trac light. Hub sensor wires are perfect-no oxidation. I ignore it and it does not affect driving. Wont take it to a GM dealer to pay $$$ then have the same problem 2 weeks later, like so many blogs describe. Cant find a GM Tech Service Bullitin on this - must be one.
  • gzbenhurgzbenhur Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Impala 3.4L with 118k, ABS light and Trac light come in when I accelate the car very gentle which does not make sense to me. I agree with you.
  • govgeekgovgeek Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a resolution to this problem? I have the exact same issue, same stain on the hood cloth, and same area wet on the radiator. I can't catch it in action so I haven't a clue.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Nope. I don't know what it is. I just changed out the coolant and I have been trying to keep an eye out, but I haven't seen the issue repeat itself.
  • 2000_impala2000_impala Member Posts: 3
    Any updates?
  • mjaimesmjaimes Member Posts: 1
    Where can I find all the Impala Message Center Icons? I have the manual, but It only appears the text, but not the image. M;y car is an Impala 2004.

    Thanks!
  • bensettebensette Member Posts: 3
    Maybe your question is "where on the dash do these warnings appear"?? On the right side, and left side of the speedo and tach. But maybe I mis-understand your question.
  • don_kdon_k Member Posts: 2
    passenger side seems to work ok, drivers side just blows cold air, i have no control over heat. I am told there are 3 controls under there, my question is which one?
  • rbraserbrase Member Posts: 9
    I had the same problem with my 04 Impala. I replaced a small electric motor that controls the cold/hot air on the outside of the plastic ductwork under the dash on the drivers side.
  • don_kdon_k Member Posts: 2
    thanks, was it hard to get to? How much of the dash do i have to remove?

    thanks again
  • clipontiescliponties Member Posts: 2
    As in the title of the post, I have a 2004 3.8L V6 Chevy Impala LS with approximately 110,000 miles on it.

    Recently, while my girlfriend and I were taking the car for a drive, the car overheated (luckily as we were pulling into a parking spot at home); I checked the coolant level in the reservoir and there was none in the reservoir. I proceeded to put coolant into the car as instructed in the owner's manual (e.g. opening the bleed valve, adding 50/50 dexcool to the radiator until full, turning the car on to cycle, adding more, etc., filling the reservoir, etc., closing the bleed valve (maybe closing the bleed valve before filing the reservoir, I can't remember, but I know I followed the instructions in the manual.)) Since then, the car hasn't had any issues with overheating and the fluid level seems to be remaining pretty constant (or there hasn't been enough of a loss in the reservoir for me to notice).

    However, since I refilled the coolant, I've noticed a severe drop in fuel efficiency. For example, tonight I filled up and compared gallons to miles on my trip meter and realized that since the last fill up I was only getting about 10.5mpg when normally, even in the worst stop and go conditions, I would expect around 18-21mpg.

    I'm not sure that the empty coolant system and the fuel efficiency issues are related, however, it seems likely that they are since they sprung up around the same time. I guess it could be coincidence, but again, I think that's unlikely.

    I've checked the oil which doesn't seem to show any indication of coolant/oil mixing (e.g. milky white color) and appears otherwise normal.

    The climate controls in the car seem to be operating normally (e.g. both the heat and air conditioning operate and seem to normally heat up and cool down, respectively) without appreciably effecting the temperature of the engine.

    I haven't check the fuel or air filters as of yet, but they haven't been changed in over a year.

    The car seems to run just fine, that is, there don't seem to be any issues behind the wheel like rough starting, rough or loud engine noises while driving, or anything like that; or at least, the car seems to be running alright to me.

    I haven't noticed any white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and when I was running my car after I refilled the coolant, I didn't notice any bubbling over of the coolant reservoir or any bubbles forming in the coolant reservoir. (I think these are symptoms of head gasket issues).

    I haven't really checked anything else and don't have any more information about the state that the car's in at this point.

    So, my questions are:
    What would cause a slow (almost unobservable) coolant leak and a drop in fuel efficiency? Does it seem plausible that these issues are related?

    Could these be unrelated issues that popped up at the same time by coincidence? What could be causing either of the problems if they are unrelated?

    What other symptoms should I check for to report back about? Or is there any other information that would be necessary to give at least a semi-educated diagnosis of the problem?

    That's all I have for now. Thanks.
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