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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • moepalamoepala Member Posts: 1
    how can i see the pictures
  • jergoldjergold Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2003 Chevy Impala with 112,000 miles on it that is exibiting similar issues. It overheated on me in the fast food drive through a couple of nights ago and the radiator was very low on coolant. These cars are notorious for having coolant leaks around the intake manifold and heater hose outlet from the engine. The Dex/Cool attacks the gasket material causing internal and external coolant leaks and degrades the plastic block fitting in the bypass hose to the heater core. The leaks can easily ruin an engine and while not that difficult to fix, involve a lot of labor and consequently can run into over a grand to repair at a dealer. There was a class action lawsuit against GM where you could recover a portion of the repair bill for the Dexcoolant issue, but it ended last year in October.

    I am in the process of isolating where the leak is coming from. I checked the coolant with a block tester and there are no combustion gasses present. The oil looks normal, but I had it changed today because I was worried the high temperature reached when it overheated may have caused viscosity breakdown. I use Mobil 1 synthetic high milage. The engine runs fine as do heater and a/c. The oil change guy said it was leaking from the passenger side, which is where the water pump and heater hoses are.

    GM must have known they were going to have problems, because most GM cars with the 3.8 liter engine have a computer program in the engine management system that disables half of the fuel injectors and turns them into reverse air pumps to cool the engine when total coolant loss occurs. Taken from a GM service bulletin: If an overheated engine condition exists and the
    messages COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE and
    REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with
    the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode
    which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent
    engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss
    in power and engine performance. This operating mode
    allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an
    emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km).
    Notice: After driving in the overheated engine
    protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
    allow the engine to cool before attempting any
    repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
    Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
    reset the oil life system.

    I am taking mine to a "GM Only" repair center this week to see if they can isolate the leak and get an estimate on the repair. I am very dissatisfied with our dealer's service department, as when the catalytic converter went out at 110,000 miles and cost us $2,200 in repairs, they were working right below the intake manifold and could have let us know that this was a potential trouble spot and recommended replacement of the intake gaskets at the same time. The convertor problem was a recall in earlier Impalas but is not covered anymore. No more GM cars for me! The poor milage condition could well be related, do you notice a fuel odor? A leaking intake gasket can play havock with the computerized fuel mixture controls.
  • rob05rob05 Member Posts: 3
    "clicking in the steering wheel" - i have an 05 impala - thanks to this site i pulled down the boot on the iss under the dash and sprayed it with pbblaster , no more clicking noises. low tire pressure light - will not reset at radio - will unhooking the pos terminal on battery reset it ?
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    Funny, Our 2k LS has 45k miles on it and I just sprayed our ISS 2 days ago, usually once a year. never any need to replace it, that is the biggest scam going. My friend is a mechanic for a poolice dept that has that issue and he never replaced one ISS, one squirt and good to go. Glad to help.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Even funnier...I sold my 2k Impala almost 2 years ago, but I still regularly spray pbblaster on the ISS...of my next door neighbor's '04 Impala LS!!! My new neighbor on the other side of our house also has what looks like an '03, how long before he learns my secret and I end up maintaining his too!!
  • rob05rob05 Member Posts: 3
    i just purchased a 2005 impala - 50,000 miles - i presume this car has a timing belt, not a chain like my silverado, correct? what is the recommended mileage to have it changed if belt ?
  • rob05rob05 Member Posts: 3
    your so right...i hit my iss with a good dose of ppblaster - no more clunk in the steering column whatsoever..... 2005 impala
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I'd have to dig around a little more, but I'm pretty sure the Impala has a timing chain instead of a belt...I don't recall any maintenance guideline about replacing a belt at some certain mileage point. I drove mine for 114k miles before I sold it (3.8l engine) and never replaced a timing belt; I did have the serpentine belt replaced that runs all the accessories (i.e. the "fan belt") just as a precaution at maybe 70-80k miles, but that's it.
  • ark5ark5 Member Posts: 3
    jergold

    Did you ever find where the leak was coming from? I had a similar problem and the intake gaskets were replaced in Aug. 09. Everything was fine until last Sat. when the car over heated causing me to limp home in low power mode. The dealer could not find anything wrong except for being a little low on coolant. I have a feeling that my issues are not over yet. In addition, the heat will not get hot until the car is driven and then the temp is unbearable. The heater issue and over heating may or may not be related.
  • ark5ark5 Member Posts: 3
    During warm up, my Malibu will not heat. I will increase idle speed and at times, will get too much heat. When this happens the temp gauge is in normal range. Other times I will get no heat at idle and after driving < 1 mile the temp gauge will go into the red range and drop back down to normal. At other times in the red range, the car will power down to minimize damage and then return to normal. The water pump and thermostat is new. The intake gaskets have been replaced as well. I am taking a beating on repair costs and am still experiencing problems. There is no smell of fluid therefore, I assume heater core is fine. Has anyone experienced similar issues and found a solution?
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    When you replaced the thermastat and waterpump did you have the cooling system flushed? If not, you may want to flush the system. You may also want to get a new radiator cap too. If they go bad they won't release the pressure when the coolant temp gets hot.

    Also, Verify that the electric fan is coming on. When the engine gets hot, pop the hood open and check to see if the fan comes on.

    You may also have a defective thermostat.

    Or, your worse case scenario, is that you have a leaky headgasket.

    Good Luck
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    The 2005 Impala V-6 has a timing chain.

    You do have a serpentine belt that operates the power steering, ac, and the waterpump. You may want to change the serpentine belt every 20k or 2yrs.

    The belt costs about 20-25bucks and is easy to install.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I don't know if this is related to the problem that the 2000-2005 Impalas experienced, but thought it was worth passing along:

    http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2009-11-23-gm-steering_N.htm?csp=Cars
  • ark5ark5 Member Posts: 3
    Yes, the system was flushed and the engine cooling fans are working. My mechanic told me today that the thermostat was defective and he replaced it at n/c. In addition, he told me that the head gaskets are leaking internally. I don't have a rough idle or vapor coming from the tailpipe however, I am told that that is not always the case. I am not sure if the mechanic performed a compression test on the cylinders or a just a radiator pressure test. I will ask what lead him to conclude a leaky head gasket. I am beginning to wonder if the replacement of the intake gaskets was even necessary. Perhaps it was the head gasket all along. At this point, I am looking at $1,080 + tax to replace the head gaskets. Ouch
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    The leaky upper intake manifold is a common problem with Chevy Impalas and Malibus. My 2002 impala had a leaky intake manifold gasket. I just added some stop leak becuase I didn't have $600. 00 to get it done.

    The head gasket probably went bad because your engine was overheating as a result of the defective thermostat. You may want to ask the dealer to give you a price break. I bet you can knock the price down to $600-800 for a the head job.

    Good luck!! :)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Noticed this yesterday and also a few days ago. When I noticed it a few days ago I thought it was just a fluke.

    2004, 3.4 engine, 50K miles.

    The gas gauge has gone wonky. Last night it flipped to the way past full mark and my wife says it is now resting at the 6 o'clock position. Anyone have any idea what would cause this and how to fix it?

    Also the speedometer and odometer quit working. However it worked fine today my wife says. This is slightly troubling as we have to leave for a 1500 mile round trip road trip on Wednesday.

    The broken gas gauge I can deal with. The non working speedometer is not such something I want to try and deal with. I don't have a tach so I there is no way to know how fast I am going. So are these two issues related and where would I start to try and fix this???

    Or maybe I'll just hope the speedometer stays put together long enough to get us through this road trip.
  • rickosauverickosauve Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Impala LS with about 100,000 miles. This Thanksgiving I drove it from Houston, TX to Kansas City, MO and back of course. believe it or not I averaged about 31mpg highway at about 75 to 80 mph. It's old but I love my car. I'm a Chevy man from here on out.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Jeffrey you are pretty lucky! I was a Chevy man until I purchased my 2002 Impala.

    My 67 Chevelle was more reliable.

    Did you ever have to replace the BCM or Passlock Sensor on your 2002 Impala?
    How about the combination light switch and manifold gaskets?

    My Impala must be a lemon. I am a tall guy and I like the roominess and smooth ride of my 2002 Impala but unforntunately my Imapala was a Lemon. :lemon

    I hope you continue to have good luck with yours!! ;) Best wishes!
  • waathaqwaathaq Member Posts: 3
    I have a 04 Impala with 126000 miles. Rides well with no unusual noise or obvious other problems. When I took it to the dealer for oil change, I was told this week that the front hubs are bad and will require replacement. I was told that they were loose and there was some play in them. The quote was nearly 1000 dollars for the job. The questions I have are whether this is a common problem and also if it is possible to wait to repair this problem or this should be done immediately? What would the signs of a bad hub include? This is a large sum to spend on a car this old and I am dealing with some financial issues now. Any responses to this would be appreciated.
  • bensettebensette Member Posts: 3
    I suggest you get a second opinion, for 2 reasons. First, dealership may just be greedy and unscrupulous, or they may be right - second opinion will help. Second, your next visit should be at a Midas or Belle Tire or other good reputable network, where the work if you need it will cost less than a GM dealership. In general, for your 04 and my 03 Impala, we are well past warrenty coverage, so that is when we switch from dealership to indpendent. Good luck
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I have replaced them before, the entire hub assembly is less than $100 new. U could do it yourself
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    I also have an 04 with 111,000 miles but similar problem. The speedo stops working after driving 1/2 hour and the temp gauge will do the same. I found it was because the instrument panel gets hot at night when the lights are on. I found that you can keep it cool by closing the a/c vents on either side the gauges would keep working. In the winter I have to turn the dash lights dim to keep it cool and avoid having the gauges freeze up. The only permanant fix is to replace the gauge cluster but it is not cheep unless you find one at a junk yard. With only 50k on your car you maybe able to get it fixed under warranty as a safety issue. I find that when I turn off the car and the gauges have froze up I have to turn the key on and off over and over again until the needles get back to the zero point. A cheaper fix is to buy a GPS that shows your speed.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    If you can not hear any noises coming from the front wheels especially while going around curves then the bearings are probably fine. You don't have to fix them ASAP but when they do fail the wheel will usually come loose but you will hear grinding noises before anything bad happens. It is an easy do it yourself fix. Break loose the axle nut and the lug nuts. Jack car up and remove tire and axle nut. Remove brake caliper and caliper bracket. Remove rotor and 3 bolts on the back side of the hub assembly. Unplug ABS wire and knock the hub apart from the axle shaft being careful not to pull axle out of transmission. Assembly is reverse process takes a couple of hours for a novice. It is also a good time to replace the rotor and brake pads if they are worn.
  • waathaqwaathaq Member Posts: 3
    I thank you all for your responses to my post. I will take it to another repair outlet to get a second opinion. The car could use new rotors as well and the rear tires are near the end also, so all in all it needs probably $1500 plus in work to get it in shape, if I don't do it myself. This seems like a lot of money to put into a car that has this high mileage and also has been beaten up on the inside by the kids as well as on the outside with numerous small scratches and one large dent (I drive mostly in the city of Philadelphia and park in the street). I have been thinking about replacing it sometime this summer, maybe with the new Cruze or the Fiesta, as it would be nice to save some money on the cost of fuel. I generally can't complain too much about the car, however, as it has been reasonably reliable overall except for the terrible rotor problem.
  • scooter69scooter69 Member Posts: 1
    hello all, i bought a 05 impala 6 days ago with 75,000 on it . driving home 2 nights in a row, the headlights went out and i hit the dimmer switch to get them back on. anyone have this happen to them or have any ideas what it could be?
    all help is appreciated. thank you.
  • jerrcribjerrcrib Member Posts: 21
    speedometer quit working,anybody have same problem
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Me too... although mine is the fuel gauge too and the speedometer is wonky. Yesterday it buried it self past 120 MPH and I was probably only doing 70. Not sure what the issue is. Sometimes the speedo will work and sometimes not. The odometer seems to work fine though so I am thinking it has to be somewhere in the gauge cluster and not the sending unit? I am thinking about tearing into it to see if there is something loose or easily discernible that is wrong back there. If not, it probably means a gauge cluster replacement...
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    Hello Scooter, I had the same identical problem. You have to change the entire stalk(signal changer, cruise, low hi beam, wiper etc) on the steering column. I had this done under warranty so I dont know how much it would cost to replace it, but that was the problem. Goodluck.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I had the same problem with my 2002 Impala.
    I hit the high beam switch and my lights went out. Chevy should recall these combination switches!
    I purchased an aftermarket combination switch for about $150. and installed it myself. You will need to remove the fuse for the air bag system and you will need to get a steering wheel puller if you are doing it yourself.

    If you go to the Dealer it is probably going to run between $400-500 dollars to have it replaced.

    Good luck!! ;)
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    If you hear a whining sound or if it sounds like a helicopter taking off, you could need new hub/bearings.
    For an 2004 Impala you should be able to find a shop in the Warminster area that will replace them for about $375 each side.

    If it is not making any noises and your front tires aren't getting chewed up, I would let it go. When you take it in for your Pa State Inspection, the mechanic will tell you if you need them!

    Good Luck! :shades:
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Update on my fuel gauge and speedo issue. It to be in the cluster itself. The sending units for the speedo and fuel gauge seem to work fine. The odometer/trip meter work fine as well as the low fuel light. It will also maintain cruise control. I tested all this using a GPS unit and setting the cruise control and then decided to test the fuel limits to see if my low fuel light would come on when it usually does.

    The cruise control will maintain the speed set, even if the speedometer is reading wonky. If the speedo gets stuck at say 50 MPH I can still set it the cruise to what ever I want and then change it and the car will maintain that set speed. That tells me that the sending unit itself is working. The low fuel light also comes on when it normally does as I always reset the trip meter when fueling and so I know how far I have gone on each gas tank. The last two or three times I tested it, the low fuel light came on with 14 gallons used. So while the gauge itself is wonky, the low fuel light is not. And while the speedometer is wonky, the cruise control and odometer are not.

    That tells me it is a gauge cluster? I just don't know or want to think about replacement costs and may not even worry about it, but it is a bit of a driveability issue and plus, I don't like things like this that don't work. It's like a check engine light or brake light on the dash. I don't like that there is something wrong...
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    You should try e-bay!
    You can probably find a good deal on an instrument cluster and a find shop manual that tells you how to install it!!

    Good luck!
  • jerrcribjerrcrib Member Posts: 21
    2004 impala3.4, after driving about 30 miles speedo goes to 0 and stays there until i shut tghe engine off, then it works fine after , until the engne cools off then works fine for another 30 miles,then to 0 again any help please. i do not get a check engine light or any warnings
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    see some of my posts... dealing with the same thing only it gets stuck at a speed or doesn't work... but neither does my fuel gauge either. (Does the odometer work?? And the cruise??)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    So I am mulling replacing the gauge cluster in my car. I am pretty sure that is where my problem with my speedo and gas gauge are at.

    So my question is, when I do replace it, if I go to the junk yard and pull one from there (assuming the yards around here even have an Impala there, will I be stuck with whatever mileage is showing on the "new" cluster? Also would I be able to pull a cluster from different model years and or so a different model? Like let's say I found a cluster that has all the gauges - volt meter and oil pressure in addition to fuel and temp as well as a tach. Will it plug and play into what I have? I am assuming I have all the proper sensors as they are still sending info to the onboard computer so it can warn to impending problems like low oil pressure and that the gauges are not actual gauges in the sense that they receive a mechanical signal. Instead they receive an electrical signal from the various sensors and then either sends it to the computer where it is not seen unless a problem (like low oil pressure is senses) or if there is a gauge for that particular function it gets sent there as well. Right?????

    So I am assuming I am receiving all the needed info, I just don't have a gauge to display it. So if I plug in a cluster that has those gauges, then theoretically I should be able to have that info???

    Just throwing questions out there. If I have to replace the cluster and I can get a cluster that has that info like tach (especially the tach) and the oil and voltage, I would like that. If not, I have never had that in this car so it's not a big deal. But just thought I would ask. And the mileage reading also concerns me. I only have 50K miles and I don't want to get a gauge cluster that reads 110,000 miles and have my car reading 110,000 miles. That could screw up a whole bunch of paperwork and wreak havoc at the DMV. I would fear them rendering me a salvage title or an asterisk next to the mileage stating true mileage unknown....

    Not that I am going to go to the "junkyard" per se, but that is where I am headed. E-bay is also my option, but those usually come from a salvage yard too. I am not worried about that as long as my "true" mileage isn't affected. I could go new, but I think that cost would be pretty high - much higher than I really want to pay.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Okay - I have done some research on the non-working or wonky working gauges on these cars.

    Apparently this is not an uncommon problem. These gauge cluster's are prone to failure. So I did research and there are several options that I have found. One is to just live with it and use your trip meter to measure your fuel and get a GPS to measure your speed.

    The other is to fix it. But you would have to take it to a dealer which is probably an astronomical cost. But there are repair facilities that will do it for you, but you have to ship the gauge cluster to them.

    I did find a site though that will do that and offers "new" clusters as a replacement. He offers several different services. These cluster's are "plug-n-play". Meaning you can take one from any model year (2000-2005) and it will plug right in and work. You can also use any type of cluster, from the base model 3 gauge to the SS gauge cluster that has oil pressure, voltmeter, tach, water temp, and fuel....

    He can also "update" the mileage on the "new" cluster to reflect the actual miles that you have on your car. You have to sign a waiver stating you are giving him the true mileage on your car but he can and will when he sends you a new cluster make sure that you get the correct mileage. This is important I think because the problem with going to the junk yard or trying ebay is that when you do find a cluster, you are stuck with whatever mileage was on the car is came from. So being able to update the mileage on a "new" cluster for me is a BIG plus and almost worth the cost alone, which in my opinion is fairly reasonable for what he is charging.

    Here is the site:

    http://www.bbengineer.com/cars/impala/store.htm

    I won't attest to his "quality" as I haven't bought from him yet (I just found it yesterday and funds are limiting my purchase right now) and you must be able to remove your old cluster and be able to install the "new" one. Being mechanically inclined is definitely required, but if that is you then this could be a real money saver..
  • kkcamarokkcamaro Member Posts: 1
    Hi, owner of a 2004 Impala here. The issue with the speedo/gas/tach/etc is not the cluster per say, but the motors that drive the needles. They are called "stepper motors" A quick search will uncover lots of info on them. I have replaced my tach motor a year or so ago and no problems. The fuel/temp gauges are now wacky, that is on the to-do. I purchased the new motors from ebay $6.50 each or sets for $25-50 (get the best price) and installed them myself. You need to buy a motor for each needle. I bought 4 motors, but only installed one to be sure. Now I will install the other 3. You need mech and soldering skills to do this. You have to remove the dash fascia (the panel with the vents), which is one piece side to side. Then unplug and unfasten the cluster. Instructions are in the tech section of North American Impala Owners: http://www.naioa.com. This is great site for Impala owners. Once you have the cluster out, the stepper motors are soldered onto the board. Take the clear plastic lens off and then you need to find and mark where the needle stops on the cluster. The needle gets pulled off, you un-solder and re-solder the motor. Once all the motors are replaced, plug in cluster and test. you may need to adjust the needles for accuracy.

    If you feel that you are not able to do this, then send in your cluster. this procedure is what the cluster rebuilders are doing.
  • 08bluesuburan08bluesuburan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Impala LS that has about 110,000 miles on it, and have recently been having a problem with the heater not getting hot, even though the temperature gauge indicates that it is hot enough.. As long as it's sitting still it will not get hot. When you start moving, it starts to heat up. Slow down, and the heater gets cooler.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Check your coolant level. It may be that the coolant level is low enough that it is not getting into the heater core and not heating up.
  • nan8ltnan8lt Member Posts: 2
    Every other car I've owned or driven in, does keep the constant speed whether slowing down or speeding up....old Nissans, old volvo's, old Hondas....But not Chevys????
    Really?????????
  • nan8ltnan8lt Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    I have a 2003 Impala and it won't hold speed going down even a mild rolling hill, but will keep the speed up...I was told they fixed that on the 2004, but drove a 2007 at Carmax today and it didn't work on a very mild hill, set at 27mph, it went quickly to 40. Damn. That's important to me - keeps tickets away. Why would Chevy have this defect when so many other cars don't?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Over 10 years ago I ordered a new 2000 Impala, and joined this forum to try to find out how long it would take for my car to arrive. That led to getting to know a bunch of the regulars here, and ultimately being chosen as one of several people from this group who were featured in the 2001 Impala brochure. Anyway, I drove the car until early 2008 when I bought a new vehicle and sold my Impala via craigslist. That was over two years ago, but I always wondered how the car held up after I sold it (it had @ 114k miles on it at the time). Well, today I was digging through my old sent emails looking for something for work, and I ran across the string of emails from when I sold the car, so I took a minute and sent the guy a note to see if he still had the car and if he'd had any problems with it. I later got the reply that about 6 months after I sold it the car was involved in an accident and totaled. Apparently the wreck wasn't that bad, but the cost of repairs were greater than the value of the car, so the insurance company totaled it.

    Anyway, I suspect there might be a few old timers from the early days of this thread who still check in here from time to time, so I felt it would only be right to post a note here to let folks know. Up until today I've always looked twice at any silver Impala to see if it might be mine; it'll be sad to get out of that habit now.
  • johnalstonjohnalston Member Posts: 2
    can ayone tell me how to unclog the a/c condensation drain. where, under the car, is the drain located. any help is much apprecfiated.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    There is no condensor drain. The AC condensor is a closed system with two refrigernant lines.
  • johnalstonjohnalston Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your reply. I was referring to the condensation drain. This is the second time it's been plugged. I took it into a local auto chain last night (Canadian Tire) and they fixed it @ no cost!
    The mechanic explained that the drain on the 2004 Impala was unusually small. Normally it's 3/4 or 1 inch but the Impala was 1/2 inch. My driveway is below several trees. The debris from the trees gets sucked into the air intake on the right side just under the windshield. Apparently over time this debris can accumulate in the condensation drain and result in a blockage. The water diverts to the passenger side floor wells. Unfortunately there is wiring in the area where the water accumulates that runs between teh radio and amplifier. This wiring has now shorted out and I have no sound. Now that I've fixed the root problem I'm hoping to get my radio back working.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Ok, sorry for the misunderstanding. I suspect you are referring to the Orifuce Tube.

    ORIFICE TUBE
    The orifice tube, probably the most commonly used, can be found in most GM and Ford models. It is located in the inlet tube of the evaporator, or in the liquid line, somewhere between the outlet of the condenser and the inlet of the evaporator. This point can be found in a properly functioning system by locating the area between the outlet of the condenser and the inlet of the evaporator that suddenly makes the change from hot to cold. You should then see small dimples placed in the line that keep the orifice tube from moving. Most of the orifice tubes in use today measure approximately three inches in length and consist of a small brass tube, surrounded by plastic, and covered with a filter screen at each end. It is not uncommon for these tubes to become clogged with small debris. While inexpensive, usually between three to five dollars, the labor to replace one involves recovering the refrigerant, opening the system up, replacing the orifice tube, evacuating and then recharging. With this in mind, it might make sense to install a larger pre filter in front of the orifice tube to minimize the risk of of this problem reoccurring. Some Ford models have a permanently affixed orifice tube in the liquid line. These can be cut out and replaced with a combination filter/orifice assembly.
  • edl79edl79 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2004 Impala, though not an ss. The condensation drain is a small rubber or plastic elbow shaped piece that is on the on the firewall. Facing the engine I think it's a little to the right of the power steering pump about a foot or more down from the cowling. It pulls off easily, just hard to see and to locate with your hand.

    Mine was clogged, but that wasn't the real problem. There's a short piece of rubber under the cowling and above the cabin air filter. It's not put on with adhesive and it eventually comes off, allowing water into the blower motor which then leaks onto the floor. I didn't know that was the problem until there was enough water in the blower to hear it. I ended up replacing the blower resistor and blower motor.

    To fix the rubber piece, raise the wipers, and remove the push pins and one screw in the cowling. From the front of the cowling peel the weatherstrip back halfway to the center and lift the cowling. You'll see the cabin air filter and the rubber above it which should be part-way off. Use adhesive to reattach it. You can replace the cabin air filter too. Then put the cowling back into place. That takes about 15 minutes and a few minutes more to locate the condensation drain.
    Haven't had the water problem again after doing this.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Heres a general question for the Impala drivers out there. I have a 2004 with the 3.4 motor. I currently run a 10K oci with Mobile 1 0w30. My question is this. I reset the oil change light a long while back and I think it has been at leat 10K since I reset it. I know the oil monitor is calibrated for standard dino oil and a 10K oil change on dino oil seems really long for, me at least. How ever, if true, I may just go back to dino oil, or extend my M1 change to 15K miles???

    I'd be curious as to what other OCI of the last generation Impala owners have been running.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I have an 02 Impala with about 110k on it. It has the 3.4 V-6 and typically I use Quakerstate 5/30 and I change the oil about every 3k miles. If I use the synthetic blends, I may go 6 or 7k between oil chnages.

    I heard on my local news channel that modern blends of detergent motor oils can go up to 10-15k and still maintain their viscosity.

    So, basically you may go 10-15 k between oil changes without damaging your engine. (Under normal driving conditions) ;)
  • americafloridaamericaflorida Member Posts: 1
    The water pump in my 2004 chevy impala started leaking and Tire Kingdom replaced it. they also talked me into a radiator flush. They recommened a transmission flush, which I refused. Because I had gotten one done the year before(which they did not know.) The same day car ran hot. I called them and they said that it probaby had an air bubble in it and that it would work itself out after running it for a while. If not I could bring it in. I called them the next day and told them still running hot. I informed them that I would bring it in after work the next day. On the way back from work it got hot again and the transmission started slipping on the way there. It was apx 20 miles. The tow truck got there, we checked the transmission oil, which it had some. He also noticed it was hot and he said he wasn't sure what could have happend, but might have something to do with water pump. We took it back to Tire Kinddom and they looked at it. The next day they called me and said that my transmission had no oil in it and that the dip stick had burnt transmission oil on it and that it locked up. I asked them how from when tow truck guy checked to when it got there it could burn oil and lock up. The said it wasn't odd for it to burn overnight and lock up, if the car was that hot. They said that I should have done the transmission flush because they would have checked fluid levels and noticed themselves that it was low or didn't have any. After arguing with the manager he asked me to take my car if I wasn't happy with their service.
    QUESTION: DOES WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT(RADIATOR FLUSH,) HAVE ANYTHING IN COMMON WITH TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS, OR IS THIS JUST BAD LUCK????
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