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You're speedometer issue is not an uncommon one as well. It has happened to mine and it's about a $250 fix from an online source. The gears inside have stripped or something along those lines. The speedo signal is still being sent properly, just the needle has stopped reading correctly. All my gauges have stopped reading accurately and so that is a fix that is waiting for funds in the wings.
It only took a few minutes of research to discover the gauge cluster problem and while it's only a couple hundred dollars to fix, I haven't taken the time to tear into the dash and correct it.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/131380/SFV/30046?gclid=C- P2a8Y6spaoCFRxrgwodOSFqVA
Can't help you on the fan motor though. Not an area of my expertise.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-380384.html
Look for two posts ( one from 8-1-09 and one from 6/26/2011)
The wiring to the radio is located under the passenger side carpet. Most likely it's shorting out because of moisture from the floorboard. The mositure in the floorboard is most likely coming from the sealing strip at the base of the windshield that falls off- letting rain water flow from the windshield directly into the cars fresh air intake.
The posts in the link above will explain about the stereo wiring and about removing the windshield panel to fix the sealing strip ( See linked website in the June2010 post 2002 Impala LS leaks rain water - Topix http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/chevrolet-impala/T7T1J3LJGM5QRF7KJ This other forum should answer your questions as well as guide you into fixing the water issue so it doesnt happen again.
Other maintenance that you'll need: Replace the cabin air filter- it's been sitting there absorbing all that rain water and will need to be fresh. This can lead to other problems like the blower motor going out if it's not taken care of. You'll notice a difference right away.
If you go to a service center to get the repairs- be very specific about the issues and what you want them to do. (1. Replace seal at the base of the windshield and change cabin filter. 2. replace the orange wire corroded connection in the radio wiring under the passenger seat carpet ).
Theres' no need for additional diagnostic work - this problem is VERY common for Impalas it's just nice to know that by fixing my problems with the radio and water issues I can help someone else.
This car was plagued with problems. Right after the warranty expired the BCM went bad. Then a year later the passlock sensor had to be replaced. I put stop leak in the radiator because I couldn't afford to pay the dealer $800 dollars to replace the lower intake manifold gasket. Also I have the noisy, clunking ISS (Steering shaft).
Now the transmission is starting to act up. In reverse it makes a growling/grinding sound when you accelerate. Could that be the PCS causing this?
Do you still have your 01 Impala or did you scrap it??? :confuse:
Car has 106,000 miles on it -- ran fine until the other day. Should we put it out of it's misery, or pursue repairs. Anyone have similar problems that have been solved?
But having the wheels refurbished would probably be a cheaper less expensive fix than a whole new set of wheels and tires.
Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?
To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.
ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.
REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.
Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.
Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.
Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.
Good Luck, Jeff
I replaced the entire cluster. Then while on the road traveling at highway speeds my wife commented that the car felt like it was driving funny and losing power. She said it would also randomly kick off the cruise control. I thought it was just because we were driving through the mountains and that is why the car felt like it was losing power... every time it would slip back into drive, the gearing was such it couldn't keep up. That was my theory until I drove it on the next leg of our 1400 mile trip. I noticed that the speedometer would flick like you had shut the car off and then turned it back on. The speedometer was the only gauge to do this. When it did this the cruise would kick off. Sometimes the needle would fall almost to 30 or 40 (from 75 mph) before kicking back on, other times it was just a few mph before coming back to the current speed.
I didn't think much of this as the car was acting normal otherwise. Then however I noticed as I was trying to go up a hill, I felt the car suddenly lose all power. It's hard to describe although as it continued to do this, I finally figured out it felt like it was hitting the speed limiter and the computer was shutting the car down. I've never hit the limiter in this car before as I think it's set somewhere north of 115 MPH and this car has a hard time getting to that point, however I have hit it in several other GM vehicles and this was the exact same sensation. Only it was doing it at 65-80 MPH. Usually under a heavy load like a pedal to the floor load. So the only thing I could think at the time was the new cluster. So when we stopped for the night, I swapped clusters back out to see if the old one would make the car exhibit the same symptoms. It didn't change. Again the only needle that would flick would be the speedometer (only this time it flicked the needle when it was pointing straight down at the steering column since the motors were stripped and this is where the needle was stuck at this point).
So it appears that the symptom is not related to the gauge cluster but rather something else. Would it be the speed sensor? And if so where is it? The other question I have is I changed unplugged them while the ignition was "hot" (key in the run position) because I needed the shift lever in first gear to remove the dash panel and the cluster. Would this have cause my issue and shorted something out? (Yes I know that was a fubar on my part, the battery should have been disconnected and yadda yadda). Now I am just trying to track what I need to fix and make sure I don't have any other major issues. I will note that after several hundred miles the symptoms decreased and we could finally use the cruise again for several miles. Until I hit hills again and put the motor under load and it would act up again occasionally hitting the "speed limiter" if indeed that is was it is doing. I don't know if that is what it is doing, but that is the sensation I get when it does its thing.
Details of GM's 3800 Model Engine Recall
File a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission, if the Chevy Dealer can't assist you. This is happening with everything we buy nowadays, whether it's made in China or not.
Have you had any luck in getting this evaluated since your post? If you decide on visiting a GM dealership and would like for us to follow up on anything with them, be sure to contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a recap of the situation at hand).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Many happy miles!
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I have a 2005 impala base sedan with no tachometer.
I want to install a digital tach. in the past the tach wire was connected to one side of the coil.
Where is the "coil" on the newer cars?
Thanks
Been a few years since I had an Impala, but the only time I remember a whine/growl in mine it turned out to be low on power steering fluid, which as I recall the reservoir was located on the back/firewall side of the engine out of easy view, which is why I hadn't routinely checked it.