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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jshimonjshimon Member Posts: 7
    O.K., today I found a toyota tacoma with a 3.0 liter...and it is a V-6! What does this mean? Is it as good as a 3.4? I have been searching for a used tacoma (good luck) but I'm too picky. I want a 4x4, 6cyl., and an ext. cab. They have been tough to find. Nobody ever seems to get rid of them! I'm down to two trucks, the 3.0 is in better shape than the 3.4, but is 3.0 too weak? Let me know what you think.
    Thanks!
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    Stay with the "tacoma" model only ok??much better truck overall...the 3 liter is a stone! :)
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    What do you mean by, "...the 3.0L is in better shape." Honestly the 3.0L engine wasn't a bad engine in its day and will probably last you another 10 years or so without major problems. So long as you don't mind not having as much HP as the Tacoma, go for it! You can even use the fact that it's not a 3.4L as a bargaining point..."Well I was more interested in a more powerful 3.4L Tacoma. What kinda offer can you give me?" Nothing wrong with those 3.0L 150HP Toyota Pickup V6's in my opinion.

    Be a little leary of early model 3.4L V6 Tacomas. Ask the owner if they've had problems with the head gasket (a known problem for 1996 - some 1998 models).
  • jshimonjshimon Member Posts: 7
    Thank you so much for all of your advice. I am going to purchase the 3.0 V-6 tomorrow!!!! I will be posting my tacoma experiences on some of the other sites. I feel bad, the owner really doesn't want to sell, but he has to. He said the spots on the title were teardrops. I am SO looking forward to my 1st Toyota. Hopefully I can get another one after my Ford dies (shhh don't tell the Ford).
    Thanks again for all the info. I have really learned a lot!
    ;)
  • reynolds6reynolds6 Member Posts: 31
    I think ebbgreatdane has a valid point there. As long as you realize that you don't have a lot of acceleration available in the 3.0L, there isn't really anything wrong with that engine design. My old '85 has a 22R that put out about 95hp when it was brand new. I guess that it might break 90hp now after 200K+ miles even with the performance add ons. However, the engine is still plenty capable for a truck of its size. It will still pull more than the tire traction allows or the brakes will stop. Of course, the new 3.4L is much nicer. Why else would I shell out the cash for a new D-cab? You just have to realize the limitations up front.
  • glenn54glenn54 Member Posts: 23
    I was wondering if any tacoma owners with the RS3000 toyota alarm system are having intermittent problems with the doors not auto unlocking when the alarm is unarmed with the remote.
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    I have a 2001 4x4 Tacoma that is 6 months old. I noticed when waxing it last night that there are a dozen spots about the size of a pencil eraser where the paint is cracking on the hood and on top of the cab. I went to the dealership and they said it was do to (acid rain, bird droppings, etc.), so it wouldn't be covered under warranty. My color is black so there is no clear coat, anyone else have any ideas or similar problems???? I am going to meet with the rep. but I am sure I will get the same run around. I wash and wax this thing religiously! I live in Iowa, so no acid rain either. If it's bird droppings then every black truck on the lot should have the same problem. Simply frustrating!!!!!! Shane
  • eagle63eagle63 Member Posts: 599
    "My color is black so there is no clear coat, anyone else have any ideas or similar problems???? "

    -hmmm, I'm pretty sure you have a clear coat. -doesn't matter what color your vehicle is. I'd raise heck with the dealership until they fix it. if not, go over their heads.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    Hi all.
    Does anyone know what modifications are needed to be done on XtraCab V6 2WD to bring it to the 4WD height (Basically, I want to try and modify a V6 Xtracab with manual tranny into a V6 Prerunner with manual transmission.
    Or would it not be worth the trouble, and be just easier to buy the 4WD Xtracab?
    Thanks,
    Andy
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    I haven't heard of anyone having that problem with the alarm system. Better head back top the dealer.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Scorpio -
    Don't bother with the mod. Honestly, the aftermarket cost of doing that doesn't make sence when you start to talk about thinks like extending the steering column and tweaking the front suspension.

    You'd be better off gettting the 4X4 or Prerunner to begin with and raising those if you desire. The last thing you want to do is buy a brand new truck and FUBAR it up. The 2WD versions do not have the structural rigditity to be a Pre-Runner or 4X4 and it will never be quite "right".

    John
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    I read your other post in the Ranger/Tacoma list.

    My advice. Seek out the BBB (Better Business Bureau). Don't bother calling them since you'll never get through and if you do they'll never call back.

    Go to their website and either use their online form, FAX them at the contact number listed or write to them. You'll have a response from them within 3 days and shortly after that the dealer will be calling you to, "....do whatever it takes to make you happy...".

    Man I hate dealers,
    John
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    Thanks for the advice, but I called the customer satisfaction # and they referred me back to the dealer. The dealer called and wanted me to come in again and I said only if the Toy. service rep. would be there. So the guy came up from Kansas City and told them to repaint the whole truck. He warranted it and I take it in 3 weeks. Now I can only hope they don't screw that up. Dealers have to be the biggest parasites out there.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Glad to hear they are at least working with you.

    Hey, are they giving you a clearcoat? Just kidding.

    John
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    I have a 2000 Tacoma 4WD/Xtra cab and I live in Wisconsin. Went to turn on the heat last week and the fan works but no heat. I checked the valve going to the heater core and it is okay.

    What function does the heater relay perform in the fuse box under the hood? Anybody got any ideas as to why no heat?

    stout@wpr.org

    =============================
  • txdoublecabtxdoublecab Member Posts: 2
    I have a severe water leak in my 2001 Double Cab Tacoma. The water appears to be coming in on the bottom of the rear doors. For some strange reason does this only seem to happen when the car is parked "uphill" in the driveway. Did anybody have similar issues.
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    My truck is a 1998 Tacoma V6 4x4 EX-Cab with the TRD package. At around 33,000 miles, the dealer put in some new bushings in the clutch assembly because it was squeaking/binding (this was done under warranty).

    I'm almost at 50,000 miles and the squeaking is worse than ever. This is the only problem I've had with this truck.

    Has anybody had this problem and had it fixed? Should I expect the dealer to pick up the tab because this is a recurring problem that was fixed under warranty earlier?

    Thanks in advance.

    Pluto
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    I have a 2001 Taco,dbcab,4x4,TuRD.

    1. Transmission will hesitate when going around a stop sign, when speed is around 2-7 MPH, when step on the gas, the truck will cause a studder. (like if the engine was too rich), this has the same problem as the IS300.
    2. Who is the dumb [non-permissible content removed] who design the location of the clock.
    3. gas mileage is about 14 mpg on the truck in 2WD, is this normal? compare to the 19/17 mph sticker.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    I have my truck in the ocean with waves crashing from the back of the truck, the water level was at the rear door level and above periodically. no water was inside the cabin, i think this is a door gasket issue, and a warranty issue.

    I find the Toyota Mechanics/dealers are not very helpful, their knowledge stops at the diagnostic computer, everything is OK when the computer says its OK.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Hum. The heater core is fed by the circulatory system of the water cooling in the engine via the heater core (the mini radiator that the fan blows air over to make the air hot).

    Since it doesn't sound like your vehicle is overheating (meaning it doesn't sound like you have a coolant leak) so I would suspect the vent systems ability to route the air over the heater core.

    Check the system that routes the air over the core, the control panel knob and the core itself. With the Fan off see if you can hear the system changing the direction of the air flow vent while you turn the heater/cold knob from cold to hot (the key will need to be in the on position but the engine can be off).

    You could have a blockage in your heater core but I tend to doubt that since that only happens on older vehicles with rusted water systems.

    Check your coolant levels. Is the coolant healthy looking (bright green, redish brown) or fowled (dark brown or with particles in it).

    Those few things should point you in the right direction.

    John
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Found this in the Double Cab forum. Your problem seems to be felt by others with the same configuration of truck. The Dealer should fix the problem for you under warranty. A good idea may be to go to the Double Cab forum, send an Email to boone5, and ask him the name of the dealership that helped him out. Pass the name of that dealer to yours, and if they have a problem with fixing your truck...tell them to call the other Toyota dealer which apparently doesn't have a problem helping customers.

    #367 of 421 Water Leaks Fixed >>>for Now...... by boone5 Aug 04, 2001 (04:59 am)
    The dealership says they fixed my truck, the problem was bad weather guard seals inside the doors, they replaced all four. So far no leaks after 2 hard rains.Service mgr. said he knew of no service bulletins on this matter..I about half way believe him...I personally know 2 double cab owners and between the 3 of us we have owned 10 tacomas in the last 4 years and my 2001 was the 1st with water leak problems. I really dont believe toyota has a problem with leaks on these trks.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    But try some WD-40. That stuff worked wonders with most of the problems with my '85 Toy.

    If that's a no go, you may want to investigate what bushings they originally replaced, how much those are/cost, and how hard they are to replace. Clutch travel is important so if you think it too difficult a job...time for a trusted mechanic/local dealer.

    When they're done, sniff around an make sure they're job didn't just consist of my first point.

    ;-)

    John
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    1. First I've heard of problems like this specific to the Tacoma. You say at a Stop sign you get some hesitation and/or a shutter when you take off. Do you live at high altitudes? Try a tank of premium fuel and see if that corrects the problem. Without more information this could be an intake, transmission or even exhaust problem (i.e., and aspiration or transmission problem). If there are no loud clunks or otherwise noise, the transmission is probably not the culprit. Automatic or Stick?

    2. No Kidding. What the hell where they thinking.

    3. I've been averaging 20-21-22 in my 2001 4X4 V6 5Spd Manual Xtra Cab. Remember when you are calcutating your MPG that the light comes on with 3 gallons in the tank (and the light is damned precise I found out as I went 60 miles after the light came on and died with my hand on the parking brake in the gas station).

    However, item 1 and 3 lead me to believe you could have a mis-balance in your intake of air and gas but this mixture is tested by the air flow sensor located behind the header (i.e., it tests the composition of the exhaust gases). If there was a problem a signal would be sent to the computer to flash the check engine light. If the sensor wasn't working, the check engine would flash.

    More information is needed...
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    Yeah, I've already tried that but used silicone spray instead. But the noise seems to come from deeper inside the assembly in places I can't get to.

    I know it's a petty thing, but it is very annoying.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for replying

    1. Truck stutters when taking off after rolling around 2-7mph, tried premium, cause lower gas mileage, back at the service shop 3x, can not reproduce problem. I have the DoubleCab, so it is 3.4 auto, no other options. I wish they had a stick, but towing will be at 3500 lbs. I am at sea level, so I don't think there are any altitude issues. But I also think the dealer knows something, and not telling us, and I am checking Alldata for recalls and service bulletins.

    2. Only US version have this clock problem, Asia put it where the passenger airbag disable switch is located.

    3. I calculate 0 miles at the pump, and next gas up, divide the total miles to gallons placed in tank. never driven over 300 miles per tank, light on or off.

    "mis-balance in your intake of air and gas" sounds very logical I will check with service again, they told me last time "all Tacoma Doublecabs are getting 14mph, so therefore there is no problem, we compared yours to others" and also "computer said your truck is ok".

    I had clunks in the transmission, they said it was OK, it need the slack for the 4WD. it does not clunk anymore due to wear.... I think. should I worry?

    I am not sure about the DC compare to others models, but I had a hard time removing my oil filter, it can not be removed from the bottom of the truck, it has to be removed from the top. the Factory Workers torque the heck out of the filter, can not be unscrewed by hand, also very limited space by hand and wrench, the wiring of the alternator and the alternator made it hard to be removed from the top. The felt covered washer was stuck to my oil pan, I did not try to chisel off since it may be a lip in the oil pan, then the factory forgot to put a washer. So I add another washer and plugged it. I am trying out Mobile 1 5-30. hope this will get my mileage down?

    I think I am Ok as a home mech, my Honda is at 264k miles, as long as i keep it away from Dealer, it wil last a little longer and cheaper on the checkbook.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    1. When they tried to reproduce the problem, did YOU drive with them and/or drive the truck yourself with the technician in the passenger seat? This is what I do when, "They could not reproduce my problem," yet when I get in, the problem is still there. Everyone has different driving habits and their tech may be doing the wrong thing to recreate a problem you have found.

    Just out of curiosity, have you checked the air filter box and assembly for debris? Also a good thing to do.

    2. What a bunch of morons. Why didn't they reverse them and put the clock where the switch is, and the switch where the clock is. Maybe someday when the truck is old I'll rip the dash off and switch them around.

    3. When do you pull in for gas? When the light comes on? You would still have 3 gallons at that point and be able to go another 45-60 miles. Your range would be 345-360 miles in that case. Keep in mind that the document range for your truck (from Edmunds) is 315 city/370 highway.

    4. Clunks in the tranny. If they have stopped you shouldn't worry as this appears normal with the Double Cab PreRunner for a short time as the drive shaft seats on the coupler at rear differential. Some folks have the "clunk" every time they take off but again this is due to the transfer of torque to the drive shaft resulting in a "clunk" at the coupler plate. This appears to be normal for the double cabs. A similar problem was had on earlier PreRunner a few years ago and I've talked to some folks who had 65,000 miles and never had a problem with the truck but still have the clunk.

    5. Oil filter blues - yeah. Another Toyota shortcoming for Shadetree Mechanics. The felt covered washer is nothing more to prevent leakage. It should come right off the pan and be replaced with every oil change (when I asked for one at the parts counter they just gave me one for free). You say you had a washer stuck to the pan and the Factory forgot to put one on? Guess I'm a little confused by that. It sounds like you're saying, the factory didn't put a washer on, you had an oil change at the dealer, and they put one on, now you think that one is stuck to the pan. Anyway, if you do have one, it should just peel right off. Keeping the old one on won't hurt a thing...eventually, after 3-4 oil changes it will start to drip if you don't replace it.

    My favorite filters are the Fram DuraGuards with the built in grip for taking them off. What an invention! Easy to hand tighten when you hand is covered in oil residue after draining, and damned easy to get off WITHOUT a wrench! The Mobil 1 should treat you well. The dealer recommends changing every 6500 miles but I change every 3000 - 4000. You can't go wrong with more oil changes so long as you recycle it; someone else will enjoy the synthetic made from your recycled product.
  • reynolds6reynolds6 Member Posts: 31
    I totally agree on the location of the clock; not a good place at all.
    My 4WD TRD d-cab gets between 17.5 and 18.8 mpg on most tanks that I have checked (most miles are 24 mile round trip to work with few stops). The tanks that were below this range can be attributed to excessive idling that would understandably bring mileage down. However, that didn't even drop below 15.0 mpg, so your situation is outside of my experience. I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 at 2000 miles and have detected no noticeable difference in my mileage.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    Thanks everyone for all the help.

    Now i know what the average mileage (better than 15) for all the Tacos DCs, i will let the dealer know.

    I have tried to reproduce the stutter problem with the mechanic, reproduced it once, but he was not paying attention, his mind was at work.

    Oil pan: this is the first oil change at 4k. there was felt on the oil pan, but not sure if Factory placed a washer, it looks like one, but can not be removed.

    Maybe you guys may know this, when drain plug and washer is removed, is there a lip on the oil pan about 2mm?

    With all this aside, i do love my truck, it's fun especially with the extra bright H4 headlights i replaced. It wakes other driver up. not to look cool but for safety. I am glad I choose this over a 1986 ex-military Humvee.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I have a 2000 Xtra cab 5 speed tacoma that is currently at the dealership with transmission problems. At first I thought it was the clutch, but that isn't the problem. It has 39,000 miles on it, so it is going to be fixed under warranty, I hope. But it doesn't seem right that it should have this type of problem this soon. I had more or less decided to try to replace the uncomfortable seats and keep it, but now I'm back on the fence. I can't afford to have a vehicle that is going to have maintenance problems so soon - we drive 150 miles a day (round trip) for our commute to work. It seems sad that my other vehicle, with 90,000 miles and a reputation for poor maintenance, has had no problems at all!

    Has anyone else had tranny problems so soon with a 5 speed?
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    We'll need some more info here... You suggested you have a manual transmission which have a great reputation with their manual transmissions so...

    Is there a shutter on take off? Poor gas mileage? Clunks? Guess I'm wondering why the dealer is targeting the Manual Tranny...Maybe you can offer up what symptoms you experienced.

    John
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    More info on what I think are tranny problems. Yes, I have a 5 speed manual. Now that I think about it, it started several months ago, but only happened twice until Friday, so I just assumed that I had gotten confused as to which gear I was in and which gear I was trying to go to.

    On Friday I know it wasn't me. I was driving rush hour traffic and was travelling uphill, almost to the top of what they often call the "Newhall Pass." I'd been on the freeway for about a half hour and was delighted to finally get a chance to to shift into 4th gear. Put in the clutch, take it out of 3rd, and can't find 4th. For a few seconds I couldn't find any gears at all! Then I found third, started downhill and found 4th. Not long after that we stopped and switched drivers. My husband drove the rest of the way up the I5 to the top of the Grapevine without problems (granted, this didn't require much shifting). Then when he was going up the hill after the stop sign in Frazier Park, the same thing (3rd to 4th gears) happened to him. When we stopped for mail at the mailbox, he put it in reverse and it wouldn't shift out of gear. He turned the vehicle off and on, and it worked fine.

    On Saturday we took it down to our favorite mechanic, assuming that it would be the clutch. Didn't have any problems going downhill. He said that since it was an intermittent problem he was pretty sure that it was something in the transmission. So we took it to the dealership who say they can't find anything (but then, I don't think they test drove it uphill - there aren't any hills to speak of in that part of Bakersfield).

    I rather hope it is a one-off lemon tranny, rather than a clutch or something no longer covered. At least it would be repaired under the warranty. I'm still afraid that it will be something that is no longer covered.

    By the way, the reason I have a manual tranny is that I burned out two automatic trannys in a year in an elderly Nissan Hardbody pickup (first one went right after we moved up here, the second one a year later). Our daily commute is 76 miles one way, starts at 6,000 feet (near Frazier Park)and goes to sea level (West LA).

    Any help/advice you can give me would be most appreciated!
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Manuals ARE more dependable than autos usually, but can still have problems.

    The symptoms you describe sound like the synchros. Intermittent. Will shift fine at times, then give you great difficulty, or even impossibility of changing into a gear. Dealers know this, and should be willing to get inside a manual transmission that has this problem, since it will never go away otherwise.

    When I had this problem in 1991, I'd be in neutral, and sometimes had difficulty shifting into 1st while at rest. Or would not shift cleanly from 1st to 2nd. Or wouldn't go into 3rd without excessive fiddling, rocking the lever etc. I lived with this problem until I could stand it no more. Complained to dealer, they replaced synchros, difference was night and day. No more problems.

    One other thing...a worn clutch will make shifting more difficult. Usually, you know when you have clutch problems, due to other noises, slipping etc. That's got to be ruled out though.

    Tell them you think the synchros are defective.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Thanks very much for confirming what my friendly (non-dealer) mechanic thought. When I went to the dealer, he wrote up the symptoms. When I tried to explain what the mechanic said (synchro rings) the service writer more or less cut me off (he was polite about it - the last service writer who had a problem with what I wanted was completely arrogant) and said that if it were a tranny problem they wouldn't take it apart - they just replace it with a factory rebuilt.

    It was a day later that they called and said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. After my husband told them it was intermittent, they said they would look again. They have plenty of time - we won't be back in Bakersfield until the weekend.

    Since you had a similar problem - does it get worse, or does it stay the same? It doesn't really matter - I'd still be afraid to drive it in the heavy every day traffic I face the way it is now. Just curious.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    It stays the same. But because it was intermittent, I was afraid to take it out of gear at the stop light, for fear it might be hard to go back in.
  • hhooks1hhooks1 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2001 PreRunner, 4 Cyl, Xtra Cab. Took it back to the dealer with less than 100 miles because I was getting a noticible hesitation and jerk when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Didn't happen within the first 5-7 minutes, but after the engine/transmission came up to operating temp. The Service Manager said their "master mechanic" didn't find any problems when he test drove it and he said to "drive it another couple hundred miles and see if it changes". It didn't, so I took it back at about 300 miles. The "master mechanic" noticed the hesitation and jerk the second time. (Maybe because I asked him to ride with me and I'd point it out....cause I knew it wasn't going away). They kept it for diagnostics and said it was the shift solenoid. They replaced 1 and 2 solenoid, but I still have the problem (325 miles now). I got the "Service Director" to ride with me and he agrees that the transmission is not shifting properly. He now wants to install a new transmission. When I asked him if he had heard of another Tacoma PreRunner with this problem, he said NO.....

    Any one know if I've got a "one of it's kind"?
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    My transmission did the same thing!!!!! but i have a V6 DoubleCab, wonder if they use the same transmission?

    The problem i get was hesitation when i roll through a street corner around 5-7 MPH. cool! i can tell my service adviser now there are problems with Toyota Auto-Trany.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    I hope I don't see these problems in my '01 Xtree Cab V6 4X4, Manual 5spd.

    Good Luck,
    John
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    OK, here is the skinny, 3.4 Auto 4x4 with ABS, will have this problem, Toyota called it "characteristics".

    Here is the test, but don't sue me or anyone if you screwed up and hurt yourself, someone or things (legal crap).

    Find a long strip, no cars or people around. Accelerate to 30 or forty and hit the brakes, not too hard, but harder than normal conditions, when the speedo drops between 15-10 mph, hit the gas. mine will hesitate when gas if pressed. This is the characteristics.

    The 4x2 will take off like a bat out of hell. We did a test this morning.

    Toyota FACTORY also tells their Factory Mechs to let us owners know... if we are gunning our vehicles from a full stop thru intersections, the truck may have this stall issue, so drive carefully and not like the minivan-suv crowd.

    Regarding the oil pan and oil changes the washer has to be pried off, or knocked off with a chisel. this is also a Taco issue.
  • talentofficertalentofficer Member Posts: 2
    Here is the list of things the dealer "cannot replicate"

    5 speed manual not shifting correctly (2 problems) hard to get into 1st/2nd gear AND slight engaging of gears when clutch depressed.

    Water leak into drivers floor board.

    Dash coming loose (2nd replacement dashboard)

    Intermittent clunking when braking.

    Virbration at highway speeds (3 sets of new tires and rims) finally smoothed it to tolerable level.

    Toyota offered to buy the truck back for HALF of retail even after I sued them. Trading it in this weekend for anything!
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one who had problems with my 5 speed tranny. The dealership also "could not duplicate." At the moment it seems to be better. We went through a set of tires in 30,000 miles (supposed to be 50,000 mile tires?), and when my husband replaced them he got a weird reading on the front end alignment. Sears (where he bought the tires) didn't give him a straight answer, just said don't worry about it. I'll be interested to see if we go through this set so fast.

    I've been noticing that the Taco is depreciating much faster than I can pay it off, so I'm stuck with it for the time being. Let us know how you do with your trade. I would love to unload this thing!
  • wsnoblewsnoble Member Posts: 241
    Check out this article, it will explain how to resolve the vibration issue...


    http://www.gadgetonline.com/vibration.htm


    It took 5 tries on my 31's...


    Good Luck

    -wsn

  • dreid2dreid2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a Tacoma extended cab 4WD V6.

    Looking at the maintenance manual, it talks about lubricate the propeller shaft on each inspection. Is this something I can do myself with my regular grease gun? Next question, what is the propeller shaft and where is the grease fitting or is there a special technique. My apologies, I just have no idea what a propeller shaft is on a truck.

    Many thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    That's the driveshaft. Some of the U-joints have zirk grease fittings. Crawl around and follow all the driveshafts. Seems like some tacomas have more than others.
  • dreid2dreid2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice, I thought as much but needed to be sure

    Dave
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    The link to the article about the vibration problem is an excellent one. I have had the dreaded tire shimmy since day one with my '99 Ext Cab 4x4. The dealer went as far as to replace two tires and multiple balancings. Finally went to a Goodyear shop who knew about the hub centric, lug centric thing and had the adaptor. Since then they have done it right two out of three times.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    Not sure you have hear of this, but there is an Office of The President (OTP).

    I have been complaining with the dealer, and Toyota_cares@toyota.com with problems with my truck. They just gave me a "go screw yourself" attitude. I emailed the Nummi plant, (since it is GM(UAW), no reply), and Toyota Japan. Japan send the email to OTP and I got their attention, but not for long. The guy told me there will be no more correspondence between him and I, since the dealer is handling the issue.

    I ask the assistant of OTP if I can get a new truck, he said no, have to go thru arbitration with a third party firm (paper work is in the mail).
    I ask the assistant of OTP if they can replace my engine and tranny, he said the dealer will contact me early next week.
    I told the assistant of OTP why Toyota_cares@toyota.com can not answer any basic question, he just said, "why didn't you ask the supervisor", like customer service can only answer questions in the owners manual.
    I ask the assistant of OTP if they can replace the clock of my truck with a Pac-Rim type clock (different size and location), he said NO.
    I ask the assistant of OTP if he want all the correspondence of emails I received from Toyota, he said not necessary. I guess he knows it's pretty bad.
    I ask the assistant of OTP if he can find out where the engine and tranny is made, he said he can't, and does not offer other ways of getting the info.

    I will not be buying another Toyota and will no recommend anyone to buy one, because if you get a lemon, you are screwed.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    looks like i definitely won't be getting one of these pieces for sure now. glad to say, after 7000 miles on my '01 Ranger 4x4 off-road 4.0, its still as tight as the day i drove it off the lot. no problems with anything. i feel envy from all you toyota owners. hehe
    well, the double cab TRD's are at least "nice looking" trucks. even if they leak water and the dashes fall off of them.
    chiweiho, i admire your persistence. after all, you did overspend on your purchase. just like all toyota buyers. and for what? a piece of produce? good luck.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    I had the same problems dealing with Customer Service with my mom's FORD Crown Vic, and her Ford Volvo 755GTA, the Fords had more problems and recalls than the Toyota. and they cost more to repair since Ford only repair it once. It's the same when you have to deal with UAW.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    hey, you're the one ditching on your toyota. i just reiterated that my ranger has been problem free for 7000 miles. no rattles, and tons of 4xing. who said anything about a crown victoria? one thing's for sure though, they must be good cars if every police agency in the usa practically uses them. and when did it become cheaper to put parts on a ford than a toyota? this is news to me.
    i only had one recall on my '01 ranger (and it wasn't even affected). how many does the toyota have? or should i say, how many should it have from your horror stories?
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    Honda Civic, 264k original owner miles traveled 6 states, snow and sand, same engine, and tranny. when you get there, let me know. Don't be mean to people. grow up.
This discussion has been closed.