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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Should not be below 12VDC.
Generator voltage when running should be between 13.5 and 15 V.
Now, check all connections, particularly grounds.
Check all connections to the starter, generator, and battery.
Check engine to chasis ground.
Check starter to chasis ground if it exists.
Grounds are the most common and least expensive prblms to fix.
Go back and read the original author's post. They never even opened the owner's manual AT ALL. I understand having questions after reading the manual, but look their first......sheesh.....
I'd make the first change, clear the codes, then see what comes up.
OTOH, the check engine light or MIL (malfunction indicator light) will come on if the computer determines that there is an error, and stores that code. Some intermittent errors are stored in a separate memory and if they do not recurr within so many start/stop cycles, they are cleared without generating a MIL indication. (A flashing MIL is bad news and you should make every effort to shut down immediately.) In any event, if a malfunction is detected by the system, it will possibly light the MIL, but not the maint light.
Once the appropriate maint has been performed, simply turn the lamp off using the procedure in the manual.
thans man!!
You might stop by one of them today or tomorrow and see what the reader says before you go to the dealer.
good luck
I am having the same problem with the truck shaking and it's driving me crazy. I had my wheels balanced twice and also had them balanced to the exact gram. I have BF Goodrich tires and was thinking of getting Michellins? I have a felling this is going to be more than the tire problem. Mine starts at 60-65 mph? Keep me posted on what you hear or if any one knows something please reply.
Thanks,
Derek<
I also know other people who have the same problem. Our small town Toyota dealer here knows nothing about it, but I talked a Toyota service manager in Tucson and they see a lot of this problem. As I had figured, it is a vapor lock issue and is due to a design flaw in this engine.
What is apparently happening is that normally your fuel stays pressurized and there is not a heat problem because pressurized fuel will not boil. But in this case it is losing pressure due to a leak or a faulty pressure regulator. It only causes trouble when your engine is hot and it's hot outside, because otherwise the fuel lines don't heat up too much. It does not show up when you start your car right up at the store because there has not been time for the pressure to drop.
The dealer said that specific leak diagnoses is tricky, but they often just start at the pressure regulator and work back to the pump, replacing parts until it is fixed. In stubborn systems, they will work around the leak by insulating the lines wherever they are near heat so that the pressure loss is not a problem.
So far, I have not had a chance to fix my truck. Now that I know what it is, I just turn my ignition on and off a couple times, giving the system a chance to equalize out again. Usually, when I go to start, if no joy then off, wait a minute, on, but no crank then off a half minute, and so on, for four to five rounds. By then it seems to clear out and have gas again. Try it. Sometimes I try giving it gas, because I know that tells something to the computer (signals flooding, see owners manual) but I'm not sure if that helps.
Eventually I intend to put a fuel pressure guage on the system and test the pressure reg etc. There are procedures for testing the fuel system. For most folks it might be easier to just go ahead and replace that regulator without even testing, if you want.
I really doubt this is caused by the igniter. Buy a pressure reg instead and let us know.
Steve
I have up-hill ascent control (HAC) installed on my truck and the other day I was on a steep driveway waiting to pull into traffic... When I let off the brake, my 2005 tacoma rolled back a few feet when a very loud clicking noise sounded, slip indicator light lit up and brake warning light with buzzer screamed. My question is... is this working properly? My concern is I continued to roll backwards until I re-applied the brake and the loud clicking noise. When I read the manual... it implies that the HAC is to keep your truck from rolling backwards.
Has anyone else experienced this or know if this is normal?
Thanks in advance for your replies,
Christy
So far so good though I guess. I've been using 91 Octane and it seems no different, the engine seems to vibrate a little bit on idle but that is usually normal
Any one else experience this junk?
Otherwise im lovin this truck
05 tacoma reg cab 4x4 5spd man.
I have a 2005 4x4 Access Cab. The symptoms that you have described are very similar to what I have been experiencing. The wind noise is very irritating. I notice it at speeds of about 80 MPH but it also does it on very windy days when I am driving at about 60 MPH. That is a good way of describing the weird sound when you start up. I haven't taken my truck back to the dealer for these problems I was just wanting to see if anyone else was having similar problems.
but its still a good test for anyone.
Am I alone, or is this mileage normal? Thanks!
Let me get a few more miles and a few more days past Katrina, and I will give you my first numbers.
Wayne
kcram - Pickups Host
So, blocking that vent will certainly interupt the planned flow of air. Whether that's a problem for air quality in your vehicle or not, I can't say. Just thought I should mention why it's there.
It does bring up some questions, though. Do you notice the whistling only at illegal (high) speeds? If so, do you notice any change in volume or pitch if you switch the A/C fan from off to high? Do you notice any difference if the recirculation is used or not? If you only notice it with the recirculation switch on when at high speeds, perhaps you might have better results by switching the recirc off during high speed driving. (Fresh air circulation is the preferred setting under normal conditions. The recirc is intended to assist in quickly cooling or drying the air in the cabin, or, as I most often use it, to avoid bringing in excessive amounts of noxious fumes or dust. I often switch to recirc when I drive thru a cloud of dust, diesel exhaust, or someone cutting tall grass since I have bad grass allergies.)
Good luck.
My question to everyone is: "Has anyone put a dual cat back exhaust system on one of these trucks and what was the overall effect?""
Picked it up on 8/28 and noticed vibration through the steering wheel at about 60MPH. it also pulled a bit to the right.
Took it into Texas Toyota (Grapevine, TX) for service (not where I bought it, but closer to home) on 9/1 with about 200 miles on it. They balanced all 4 tires and checked the alignment. It's driven fine since then.
New to the forum and this is my first post. Thank you!!
I posted a message to this newsgroup almost a month ago and got several
individuals to respond they had the same problem or to offer suggestions.
A bright fellow who goes by samwise (and I believe it) came up with the
solution.
If your Tacoma has trouble starting with the engine hot (usually at the gas
station or a quick stop) you need to disconnect the IAT (Intake Air
Temperature) sensor. This sensor is located on the air filter box, and is
not the large MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor. The connector to the IAT sensor
only has two wires.
I found this on another site. Hope it works, I will be having my mechanic testing this one out. GOOD LUCK!!! :shades:
This will cause the check engine light to come one, but who cares. If you
want, perhaps changing the sensor will fix the problem properly. I just
disconnected it and my truck runs fine.
Thanks again to Samwise for the solution. I spent well over a thousand
dollars at the Toyota dealer and they did nothing at all except charge me.
I hope this solution works for you if you are experiencing he same problem.
It's people like Samwise who make the newsgroups work!