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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I replaced the manifold hoping this would cure the problem, but the uneven and high idling is still there. The engine is also noisy but I figure this could be due to not tightening the manifold well. Check engine light is still on after changing manifold
What concerns me is the high uneven idlling, could it be something to do with the fuel system, maybe a bad fuel pump / filter? Please advise
I'm not sure if we're talking about a truck, car, or riding mower.
You have a carburetor and not a throttle body w/ fuel injection?
In any event, if the check engine light is on, the first step is to check what error codes are stored in the OBD. If you don't have an OBD reader, you can usually go to an auto parts store and they'll plug one in to read you the codes. Have them reset or clear the codes and try again. If you get the same codes, then you have clues as to the areas to check.
Generally a high idle is not filter or fuel pump related, particularly if it runs well at higher loads and rpm. You could have a mixture issue, if you have a throttle body you could have a worn idle solenoid or valve, you could have sensor issues, any number of things. Start w/ the OBD.
I will get readings from ODB II
Buy a $3.00 can of electronic parts cleaner.
Disconnect the plug to the MAS (Mass Air Sensor, or other such name). It's labeled, right behind the air cleaner. There are 2 cross-point screws and it lifts right out. Inside, you'll see two very small wires. Don't touch them! Just hold it up where you can spray the electronic cleaner on both wires until it drips on the floor, then let it dry for about 5 minutes. It's quick drying stuff, no water.
Then re-assemble, reset your ODBII codes (you can do this by removing fuses, or by haveing someone with an ODBII Scanner reset them for you).
The check-engine light has not come back on, and I've got a bunch more horsepower, mileage is up to about 20-25 and I'm happy. It was cheap, easy, and it works.
i just bought a used 95 ext cab 2wd tacoma with near 150,000 miles and am having slight problems... i mean... i'm still going on long drives and such... just pushed my first 1000... good stuff... but not perfect yet...
first problem:
recently (as in the last few days) the brake has been feeling very lose... i have much more play before it actually grabs the wheels... but if i pump the pedal it grabs where it should... i have checked the fluid... no shortage there... and i do not think it is a problem with the brakes themselves... maybe in the master cylinder?.. any ideas?..
second problem:
while shifting into first and fifth (and occasionally third) the gears seem to grind a little... it is as if i have let the clutch out too soon... but my foot is still on the floor... it is not bad with the fifth gear... just a little grab it it's in... but with the first it will bounce back out and i have to wait until i have come to a full stop to push it in... i have heard that the bushing can wear out on the shaft... i'll replace that soon... and i took it to a mechanic and he said that some bearing is worn out and i need a new clutch... but i don't think that he really felt the problem i was having... i think he was bumming about how it was a little difficult to push the stick into first (which it is... but i don't mind that)... whereas i was talking about how it sometimes won't let you because the gears are grinding... i checked the clutch fluid and it was super low... so i filled it back up... but still no change... and the mastery cylinder here is brand new... help?..
and finally:
as of yesterday my truck had some troubles starting... i do not think that it is the battery because the stereo turns on just fine... the ignition makes it all the way to the "khh" sound that should turn into a running engine... but then changes it's mind... then i'll try again and there's nothing for a little while... so i chill out for a second and talk to the truck... tell it not to worry... and it starts... one time i tried taking out the key and putting it in the other way and that helped because i know that the key is worn down (i can't lock the doors with it... the teeth are just too old)... but may have just been coincidence... any thoughts?..
thanks...
By loose it sounds like you mean you have to press the pedal far to get any braking. That could be caused by a worn master cylinder or air in the lines, either induced because fluid level was allowed to go too low (due to leaking wheel cylinder or caliper, or leaking master cyl), or internal leak in the master cyl. Probably could get a quick diagnosis with a free brake check by a tire and brake shop that you trust. (I personally trust our local Firestone shops, but I've read horror stories inother cities, so pick someone w/ a good rep. Our Midas shops are both crooks and incompetent -long story but I know it first hand).
Gears grinding-
Could be low fluid or air in the system if this has an hyd clutch (I am not that familiar w/ the clutch on the manual Tacos). Also could by worn synchronizers. (Synchronizer is a part that helps to spin up (or down) the speed of the gears that are about to be engaged as you shift from one selection to another. The synchronizer engages before the gears do, slipping at first until the gear speeds up sufficiently. When worn, the sync doesn't engage early enough and gears grind because of the large difference in rotating speed.)
Starting-
If you mean that it is cranking (engine turning) but just not startng, that's one thing, if you hear a click or clatter, that's another. In the first case, we'll need much more info. In the latter, I would start with looking at the battery condition and the terminals and cables. If the batt has an "eye" on top, see if it's the right color (read the label on the batt) Clean and tighten all connections. Check for a bad ground cable or connection, particularly btwn battery and chassis, engine and chassis, etc. Check for good connection from battery to starter. Check alternator to battery/starter connections. IF still no joy, check battery condition. Most auto parts places will do that for free -Walmart auto shop as well. Key teeth being worn is coincidenc. If the key turns the lock enough to turn on dash warning lights, that's not the prblm.
Once you line up your marbles so to speak, speak w/ the service dept manager (not a service writer). Explain to him that you certainly don't want to be uncooperative, but that you have brought the vehicle in for the same prblm X times. Maybe mention that if you wanted to make trouble you would have looked at the relief of the lemon law way before now. But explain that you can't continue without the problem being solved, so ask him if he can get his "best tech" on the problem so as to solve it once and for all for everyone, or if he/she has already tried, ask him to request assistance from Toyota.
In a non-threatening and calm but confident manner, note that you would much prefer to get this resolved straightforwardly instead of having the vehicle replaced, but that you need to have confidence in the reliability of the vehicle and right now it's just not there.
If you approach this calmly, well informed/documented, but in a no-nonsense manner, you're most likely to get the results that you need, whether that's a better look at the problem or a replacement.
Good luck.
for the gears... it had had low fluid and I filled it back up as soon as I realized... but it hasn't improved since... so I am thinking that it must be something else... is the synchronizer something that I can deal with myself... or do I need to take it in for that?.. the Meineke dude (good guy... very helpful and understanding of my low budget) told me that I might need a new clutch... the truck has 150,000 on this one... so I guess that that is not a bad life... but I really don't have the cash for that kind of thing... so yes... could I deal with the synchronizer myself?..
and the starting... it is cranking for sure... sometimes it will even crank and sound like all is good and then crap out after a few seconds... could it be my spark plugs?..
Did you have the brake lines bled to remove air? Are the wheel cylinders and calipers OK or possibly leaking? Check for air in the lines before just replacing the master cyl.
Gears- If I remember correctly, your prblm was a "grinding" of the gears when you would shift. You didn't say anything about slippage (high rpm due to clutch slipping when starting off or under high load for example). Again, check for air in the lines before you do something expensive. If your clutch pedal is spongy and you get the grinding, it may well be air in the clutch line. This air compresses far more than the fluid that should be in there, and can result in the the throwout arm not releasing the clutch completely. That's a CHEAP fix. Secondly, if it's not air in the line, and not the clutch master or slave cylinder, it may be the synchronizers. They are inside the transmission. So unless you've taken apart -and reassembled- something as complicated (and heavy) as a transmission, then this is a job for the pros. However, I'd be reluctant to go to the (good guy) Meineke dude. If his first guess is that a worn clutch is causing the grinding -he's either trying to sell you something you don't need, or he doesn't know what he's talking about -or both. Sounds a lot like the Midas guys here. 150000 miles is a great life for a clutch -but are you sure that the previous ownder hadn't changed it ever?
Again, look for air in the lines first -particularly since you said the reservoir had been low. It's fairly cheap to bleed air out of the clutch -certainly in comparison to all the other guesses. If there is no air in the line, and if there is nothing wrong w/ the clutch master and slave cylinders, it's almost certain to be the synchronizers -but it certainly won't be the clutch lining.
Starting- it could be SO many things given the small info that we have here.
If the MIL (malfunction indicator light or "engine" light) is lit, then there is a failure code(s) stored in the computer. Get someone with a codereader to read that code or codes to find out wher to go next.
for the clutch... there is no slippage... just an occational grinding when trying to go into one of the odd gears... and i know that it had a new master cylinder put in three years (about 55,000 miles) ago... but i'll try bleeding it all the same...
and for the ignition... there are no warning lights... it just won't start about 50% of the time... what more information should i try to give you to help me on this one?..
thanks for y'all's fast replies...
I started the truck up one day, after it had been sitting for about 2 weeks. When it started up the engine cranked up with a weird sound, but started. I noticed white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I asked someone and they said it was just oil burning. So I didn't think of it and went on driving.
The next day i took it in for and oil change. When I got the truck back the guy said that it was idling very high and low at sometimes. ( I do have a K&N Intake on it). I don't know if that has anything to do with it. So i got in the truck to go home and I went to crank it and the engine came on then turned off. So i did it again and as it came on i revved the engine and it stayed on.
The next day I took it out and as i came to a stop it shut off. So i cranked it up and it started. Then On my way home i was taking a turn and it Died once again.
So im concerned as to what it might be. Could it be my intake? I need some feedback. Thanks
Did your truck get wet, as in partially submerged?
Is it possible that you got water in the fuel tank? (Although I would expect that if water was picked up from the tank it wouldn't run.)
Do you have any water in the crankcase (oil)?
Is the coolant level staying normal, or do you have to add?
If the intake, head , or block are leaking coolant, you could get some of these effects. If the coolant level is staying constant, does it show oil? If coolant level is dropping, fill it, then leave the cap off and start the engine. let the engine get up to operating temp so that the thermostat opens and notice if you see any bubbles coming from the coolant reservoir which could be exhaust.
clutch- hope for air in the line and bleed it. otherwise, my best guess is synchronizers.
if ignition successfully gets the engine to turn every time and it just doesn't always start, it's either a fuel delivery or ignition system problem. W/o diagnostic lights, you need to go one step at a time. First, check history or condition of spark plugs, then fuel filter, etc. If filter hasn't ever been replace, try that (though that's not the most likely cause, if it's really old it should be replaced). if plugs are bad, change them. Things require diagnostic equipment after that (plug wires, coils, injectors and pump, etc.)
As for others experiencing paint prblms- yes, just a few wks after I had picked up m 2004 dc taco, I noticed rust stains on the black weatherstrip near the threshold when I opened the door. Looked underneath and noticed that the corners of each door had no topcoat (white) and the driver's door had a thumbsized spot with absolutely no paint at all.
A friend w/ a 2002 had the same spots of no top-coat (champagne), but no bare metal.Several other trucks in the parking lot looked the same, and reports here on Edmunds were common.
When I brought it in and argued that with only a couple of wks ownership I shouldn't be seeing bare metal rusting, pointed out that the truck bed topcoat was so thin I could see gray primer thru it in spots, and so I felt that if they were going to repaint it, Toy should provide a letter that would note the problem and cover any future defects found in the paint for at least 5yrs, preferably 10, they wouldn't discuss it. Months later, I'm cleaning the truck and notice a blister where the original rust was. The repaired paint was rusting from beneath. Brought it in, they botched that a couple of times as well. Thank goodness. It progressed so badly with the incompetent svc mgr that the owner eventually offered to fix it, replace the doors, or refund my full purchase price. Because of the way that upper mngment handled it, and the fact that I didn't want to not have a truck, I asked that they sell me a new 2005, and apply the refund to that purchase. They gave me the same discount that I had on the orig negotiated 2004, so I paid the difference in the discounted price of a 2005 vs a 2004. In essence, I drove the 2004 for nearly a year at no cost to me. (Didn't hurt that the resale value of the 2002-2004 models had gone so high and I had very little mileage on the truck.)
So, after the above rambling, the bottom line is, I think Toy had a lot of paint issues in those model years. I was lucky enough to get into a new truck and so far don't have the fear that my truck will turn orange.
Yesterday I was riding and noticed everytime I stopped at a light, my engine was not idling properly. The Tach was moving from 500 - 650, @ 600 it ildes smooth as silk. When it drops to 500, it gets rough, I am hoping this is somehow due to the very wet conditions, but none the less find it troublesome just the same. Has anyone else had this type of issue with their truck?
Everyone, check your trucks with a fine tooth comb, and lets see if this problem is bigger than we thought. Then we can deal with the resolution issues.
Good Luck
May be a low idle issue and the higher speed w/ the a/c on smoothed things, or could be that the idle is not going up when the compressor kicks on, and that's dragging rpm down. The latter shouldn't happen as the ECM should be maintaining rpm regardless of load, but...
However, in todays day and age that shouldnt affect things with all the advanced electronics on this truck or for that matter any car. Something that bears watching to see if it has to go in.
thanks
I have the same problem, the gas mileage has dropped. I took the truck to a dealer and they said the mileage has dropped because of the year(old truck).
I have been using premium gas with iridium plugs. I wonder if the catalyctic
converter is going. Let me know what you find out.
thanks,
Repair people kept telling me that the Hondas *must* have their timing belts replaced every 50K miles or the engine will lock up.
But no one is telling me of anything the Toyotas must have to stay alive other than what I'm doing. Surely its timing belt is due to go?
What kind of things must I do in addition to keep the truck going great? thanx, sam
Thanks
For some reason the manual cluch start is no longer working - I have to use the electronic button to start every time. Any one else had this problem??
The only deviation I would make is that I generally replace anything rubber under the hood at least every 5 years, other than that, follow the mfr's recommendation.
FWIW, I know of a number of Honda Odysseys with far more than 50K miles on the odo that have not yet had the timing belts changed -however they are still within the allowables according to the owner's manual. There have been improvements in the life of timing belts in the last 10 yrs, but generally that's reflected in the manual. Follow it (and the 5yr rule) and you won't be sorry.
I saw your emal on Inside Line about an O2 sensor on your Toyota, I know it's an old email, but I was just wondering if you ever got a response, or fixed the problem. I have a 95 Tacoma that the engine light is on, and the dealer told me the O2 sensor needs replacing.
A friend was going to check/test it, like u said in your email. Were u able to test it or identify any problem?
I'll probably just end up replacing them, but like u said... they are pricey! But, if I don't have to, that would be great!
THX!!
Soon after the first 2 months, my alarm started going off while i was driving, my car would not stay locked, my low beams wouldnt turn on, but were not broken. My brights were all i could drive with (annoying and dangerous)my speedometer and gear notifications will no longer ught up, and my car wouldnt stop honking. We took it to an automotive shop and it worked right for about an hour. No i have low beams but we had to pull the fuses on my alarm and i drive with a flashlight so i know how fast i am going. Everyone that looks at it says they cant figure it out. Anyone else ever had this problem? were you able to fix it?
Lost-
If the installer tied into lines that appeared to be ground (ohmed out w/ a meter to be at zero potential to the frame) they may not be true ground. Best case, the added equipment can be disconnected to restore order, worst case, it fried something.
This is particularly true if it was aftermarket non-Toyota accessories, or if it was a Toyota approved product not installed per the Toyota instructions.
The electrical systems are multiplexed systems and the old technology of finding "hot" wires and grounds is not so straightforward. The wire may be switched between ground and "hot" under varying conditions and other control settings, but may mislead the installer into thinking he found a "hot" or ground wire.
[I had ordered a namebrand aftermarket alarm system for my wife's 1999 Honda Odyssey. Installed it w/ the mfr's plug in harness. Everything was great until it started raining. When I turned on the intermittent wipers, every stroke of the wiper would set the alarm off. Most frustrating. Supplier was able to diagnose after a few days and determined that the line that had been used to monitor "ignition on" was dropped to zero voltage at each cycle of the int. wipers. This made the alarm reset, upon which time it saw the vehicle running without having been disarmed. Had to modify the harness to make it work.]
Alternatively, if the wiring was done without disturbing any of this, perhaps the ground connection just didn't stay tight. Loose grounds have always been the most common cause of freakish electrics on vehicles and one of the cheapest to fix.
Good luck
We talked to the salesman and he said that service suggested putting some heavy sand bags in the bed. I know it's an offroad truck, but it doesn't seem like it should ride as rough as it does. Any body else have a 2005 or 2006 offroad Tacoma that has a rough ride?
I'm almost ready to trade it back in and take a beating.
Maxx7
Your only real solution is to get a new tranny installed. You could always ask them to rebuild i guess too, but i wouldn't when it's that new! Does your 4x4 work ok? I had the same problem with the gears popping as well as no 4LO! When the new tranny went in my 4x4 problem disappeared too! Good Luck, just have your dealer call factory toyota, cause they know the problem exists! When this happened to me we checked the stock of trannys and they had 10 in stock!!. Not a normal part to be caring for a new vehicle especially for the cost of one!
JIM