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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    There is a TSB for Tacomas with the squeaky clutch problem. Does this mean that the dealership must fix my squeaky clutch for free?
  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    Is it the clutch pedal?

    kip
  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    How much weight are you going to be putting in the truck and trailer combined?No you dont need a class III hitch to tow that trailer empty.I wouldnt spend my money on it,just be carefull about how much weight you're hualing and keep your speed under 25(kidding)but keep it down!

    kip
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    Yes, it is the pedal. According to what little of the TSB is readily available, the fix requires a new pedal and U-bushing. The TSB also specifically says that adding grease will not fix the problem.

    This is what I found:

    "Clutch pedal squeak in your 1995-99 Toyota Tacoma? On inline Four models, replace the pedal bracket (PN 55107-04010). On V6s, clean the grease from the torsion spring, and then replace the pedal (PN 31310-35050) and U-bushing (PN 90389-05017) if the spring support is worn. Don't add more grease. TSB TC005-99."

    If I take the truck to a dealer with this information, are they obligated to fix it?
  • m1tommym1tommy Member Posts: 29
    I got my Toyota back from a bit of work about a week ago, and the "check engine" light came on during the drive home today. Jumper-ing the E1 and T terminals in the connector box give me code "25" which my owner's manual tells me is,"Fuel Metering Device (lean)".

    Can someone give me a heads-up of what's happening here? I'm not *the* mechanic, but have some tools and can cipher out some things.

    Opinions or advice are appreciated.
    Tommy
  • losangelesemtlosangelesemt Member Posts: 279
    If you go over to Edmund's forum " Maintenance & Repair " there are plenty of knowledgeable mechanics who will most likely help with the fuel problem.
  • m1tommym1tommy Member Posts: 29
    Sir,

    Thank you. I'll try that.
    Tommy
  • jv312jv312 Member Posts: 32
    I've gotten good toyota tech info at www.t4x4pickup.com. Good luck, jay
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    My 1998 squeaks too. It is a TRD 4X4 ext cab V-6 five speed, and it doesn't do it all the time. There is no set pattern as to when it does it either. I find that if you turn the radio up some, you can't hear it. Seriously, if you find out any more on the TSB I'd like to hear back. Other than this, I've got 147K with no complaints.
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    Sounds like you go the exact same truck as me. I've noticed the squeaking acts up with changes in the weather. At around 30K miles, a dealer did install new bushings in it and that alleviated the problem for a while, but now it's back. But they didn't put in the new pedal as the TSB outlines. All attempts on my part to lubricate the assembly to stop the squeaking have been unsuccesful.

    Dang, how do you have 147K miles on your truck already? I'm approaching 60K, and I thought I had a lot of miles...
  • rickc5rickc5 Member Posts: 378
    TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN

    This is NOT a recall! Just some instructions to Toyota mechanics on how to fix a problem. Obviously, mechanics tried using grease before to quiet the squeak. Guess that didn't work.....

    If your trucks are still under warranty, the warranty may cover the cost of the repair. otherwise, you will have to pay for the fix.
  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    In my '95 V6 4x4 the plastic bushing in the pedal arm where the spring goes thru broke and fell out at 30k.I replaced it for under $3,but it took 2 hours in a very uncomfortable position.The dealer wanted $80 to do it.I would have paid if I knew what it took.The new bushing didn't last as long as the first.

    It's not covered under warranty.

    kip
  • eomckameyeomckamey Member Posts: 26
    Would appreciate any help that someone might provide on earlier question #450.

    Thank You!
    Ed M.
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    My 5 speed 2000 Tacoma V6 4WD wants to cut out or hold back around 3500 rpm on up in third gear. A friend tells me it might be a leaky gasket around the gas cap.

    Anyone else had this problem?
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    Possibly a dirty fuel filter. How many miles are on the truck?
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    40,000 or so
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
  • duncanldduncanld Member Posts: 2
    I have a V-6 Tacoma and the class 3 hitch and was able to travel at 70mph on the interstate with my Uhaul from Alabama to Maryland,(over 700 miles) so that should give you an idea on the power. I will caution you that the Uhaul loaded has a very long stopping and starting time and distance. I hope you don't have to do many hills or it could get really fun. Also check the wiring on the uhauls many are not wired properly.
    I figure that if you need to upgrade your hitch to a class three the load is probably to heavy for your truck to pull safely. I would get the weight on the trailer and estimate about how much your stuff weights and make the decision from that. Be careful and happy trailering.
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    I would clean the throttle body like Scorpio said and if that doesn't alleviate the problem then I would replace the fuel filter. About 50,000 is when I would replace a fuel filter, but yours may need it already.
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    Thanks for the tips! Whats involved in cleaning the throttle body. I've got the Chilton and the Haynes manuals. I'll have to look when I get home tonight.

    Thanks again Fella's
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    BTW My 2000 4WD V6 also has a sqeaky clutch pedal. I put some white lithium grease on it about a month ago and it all went away.

    It didn't help to grease the plastic bushings. My noise appeared to be coming from the center of the return spring where there is metal on metal contact. I had to grease that point and all the noise went away.

    I wonder if it's going to come back?
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    Yes, the squeaky clutch noise will be back. There is an actual TSB out for that, but I haven't read it so I don't know what the recommended fix was.

    How to clean throttle body:

    1. Loosen the band clamp (using either a wrench or phillips s-driver) located on the black air intake tube (between the airbox and throttle body) that is closest to the throttle body. This will eventually allow you to pull the rubber/plastic tube away from the throttle body (TB).

    2. Using a pair of pliers, take off the hose clamp located on the small extension pipe that comes off the back of the air intake tube. Then pull off the hose.

    3. Loosen up the various cables and wires that run over the top of the air intake tube. You'll want to lift the tube up as much as possible, so loosening the cables will help.

    4. Here's the hardest part: Under the air intake tube, just above the exhaust manifold, is attached a black box. You will not be able to move the air intake tube until this black box is unbolted from the engine block. There are 2 nuts holding the box to its bracket. You should feel the underside of the box and find the two nuts (12mm) and take them off. The box will then lift up off the bracket.

    5. Grasp the end of the air intake tube at the TB and pull it away (toward the passenger side). It will come off the TB, but will be held somewhat snugly by the various cables and wires running over the top of it.

    6. At this point you can take one of two steps:
    a) just lift up on the end of the air intake tube as much as you can in order to access the TB opening, or
    b) remove the clamp holding the air intake tube to the airbox, which will allow you to wiggle the whole air intake tube out of the engine bay (once you have detached the wire bundles that snap onto it). This makes it much easier to access the TB opening.

    7. Using either "air intake cleaner" or "throttle body cleaner", spray inside the TB opening, focusing on the throttle plate. Spray, then wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth. You'll be amazed how much black crud will wash out. Turn the accelorator cable attachment on the outside of the TB, which will rotate the throttle plate inside the TB. This will enable you to clean both sides and the area where it seats. Don't go nuts with the spray - just spray enough to wet the area, then wipe it out.

    8. Once you're done cleaning, just put everything back together in reverse order.
  • jv312jv312 Member Posts: 32
    good tb cleaning articles

    http://www.off-road.com/toyota/reviews/throttlebody/ or http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/30_V6/throttle_body/
  • ecc1ecc1 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Tacoma 4x4 v6 and it shifts hard between 1st & 2nd gear (only in 4lo). You'll be driving along at an even speed and then as it shifts the truck will lurch forward. Is this normal? This is my first Toyota, but I have had lots of other trucks (Chevy, Ford) that never did this.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    Yes this is normal due to the fact that in 4-low your gearing is so low that the shifts will feel much firmer.
  • ecc1ecc1 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks, must be a "toyota" thing, I have a 2001 F250 4x4 that doesn't "lurch" when shifting gears. Of course it probably weighs twice as much as the toyota (too much weight to "lurch").
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    Thank You
  • ringneckpheasringneckpheas Member Posts: 5
    What is the recommened break-in period on a new Tacoma Dbl-Cab V6 auto? I want to tow my boat about 400-500 miles. The boat/trailer together weighs less than a ton, but I wasn't sure when it would be safe to tow it on a road trip.

    Thank you.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    You ought to be ok. What milage do you have right now? It's fine, as long as you don't strain the truck too much at the beginning, so no flying down the freeway at 90mph with the boat.
  • shaboobyshabooby Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a Toyota Tacoma Double cab, and was wondering if anybody could give me some suggestions as to where a good place would be to purchase Tacoma accessories i.e. side steps, Lund tonneau covers etc. I'm looking for a place that has reasonable prices and good service.

    Thanks!
  • kuleaid9kuleaid9 Member Posts: 1
    You can get some different things at www.performanceproducts.com, they got almost anything you need and they have places that can install if for you to. They have kits you can install to and have about every car in there database
  • rubicon52rubicon52 Member Posts: 191
    Had an interesting experience changing the coolant on my 96 Tacoma (2.4L 4). Opened the petcock at the bottom of the radiator and drained 5.5 quarts of coolant (did not open any plugs on the engine). Total capacity of cooling system is 8.5 quarts so was satisfied that I got most of the coolant out. Closed the petcock and began filling the radiator with fresh coolant. Noticed that it only took 4 quarts to fill the radiator. Thought there might be an air bubble in the system but did not know how to bleed the air out. Drove the truck around with the heater on to let the fresh coolant into the heater core. Everything was fine until I turned the heater off. When I did that, the temperature increased quickly and was almost into the red in less than a minute. Parked the truck and came back 2 hours later. Opened the radiator cap and saw the coolant level was down. Was encouraged to see that because I suspected that it meant the air bubble was now out of the system. Took about 1.5 quarts to fill the radiator to the top (now had 5.5 quarts of fresh coolent in the system - the same amount that I drained). Drove the truck around for a while with the heater on and off and temperature was stable.

    Does anyone know what happened and how I can prevent it next time? Thanks.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    www.ultimateoff-road.com, he sells offroad accessories, if you're interested, as well as some good stuff like amsoil air filter. For everything else: www.4wheelparts.com, performanceaccessories.com, and just look at the manufacturer site for links to authorized dealers.
  • zmichael1zmichael1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Toyota Tacoma TRD. For about the last year or so, each time I engage the clutch pedal, it squeaks-only when engaging, not releasing. Burt Toyota in Denver replaced the bushings thinking that might be the problem, but the squeak persist. Sounds like the squeak is in the cab and is more noticeable on hot days. I sprayed the area with silicon which helped just a little. Anyone else had this problem? Appreciate any suggestions to solve the problem. Thanks, Zane
  • ahardcastleahardcastle Member Posts: 9
    A strong sour odor emanates from my vents when the truck has been sitting overnight. Any thoughts?
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    Join the crowd! My 1998 V6 Tacoma has the same problem. Here's what Popular Mechanics says from http://popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1999/8/auto_clinic_0008/print.phtml


    "Clutch pedal squeak in your 1995-99 Toyota Tacoma? On inline Four models, replace the pedal bracket (PN 55107-04010). On V6s, clean the grease from the torsion spring, and then replace the pedal (PN 31310-35050) and U-bushing (PN 90389-05017) if the spring support is worn. Don't add more grease. TSB TC005-99."


    A Toyota dealer replaced my bushing at about 35K miles but the squeak came back about a year later. They didn't replace the pedal, like the TSB says. I plan on having them try to fix it again when I get a chance.

  • eagle63eagle63 Member Posts: 599
    do you live in an area with a lot of humidity? Oftentimes this will cause a mildew-like smell to come from the vents. One idea to try is to spray some lysol in the vent intake while the vents are on high. (usually the intake is somewhere around your feet when you're sitting in the vehicle) this should kill the mildew. (and the smell)
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    Not a bad idea from eagle. It's a good practice to turn off the AC and run the fan for a minute before you shut the truck down. If you don't, moisture in the system will eventually cause mildew or even mold to form in your system which can stink.
  • dmullinsdmullins Member Posts: 30
    I have a 2002 and it does the same thing. I have figured out that I only get the odor when the A/C is set for re-circulate. If I first turn it on using the outside air (instead of re-circulate) for a few minutes, that clears it up. Guess it must be the stagnant air sitting inside the duct work over night. Soon I need to bring it in to have the dealer fix a squeaky driver seat and I'll ask about the odor as well.
  • seattle_scottseattle_scott Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone have a good solution for this problem?

    I have a 2001 Double-Cab. The rubber weatherstrip between my front fender and the plastic wheel-well trim has pulled loose. It flaps in the breeze when I drive.

    I guess I could take it in to the dealer, but has anyone fixed this on their own? I remember reading a thread on this a while back...
  • dakar232dakar232 Member Posts: 12
    I had the same problem with my 2002 DC and took it back to the dealer. They replaced both fender flairs - no questions asked.
  • olyeller1olyeller1 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a 99 2WD x-tra cab, 4cyl., manual, sr5 taco with only 12500 miles
    (verified). It's already turning into a love/hate relationship a week after purchase.

    First, the deal: truck has tilt, cruise, CD, cassette, a/c, buckets, console, int. wipers, but no tach or trip odo.
    Went to a Mazda dealer to see if I can fit into a Miata (I can) but no used ones in stock. Then saw the truck in the lot with $13K on the windshield label and nary a nick or scratch inside or out, practically new. Checked their website, which revealed they wanted $14,300. So I hightailed it back before salespeople noticed and closed for $11600 + ttl, a deal I must say.

    Love part: everything my stripped 94 reg. cab doesn't have. A/C, room, options, un-damaged sheet metal.

    Hate part: What's with the rattles? Too much GM rubbing off in that plant? Also, ride is bouncy in rear, firm in front, my 94 is considerably more co-ordinated. The worst? The truck has major trust bearing rattle after 15 minutes at hwy speeds. So does my 94 but it's got 100K hard miles on it.

    Observation: Just after the truck was purchased by the original owner, the Toyota dealer (in backwater Paris, Texas) installed daytime running lights. How do I know this? Because one night while parked checking out the radio, i turned on the ventilation fan switch. And guess what? The headlights came on!!! Then i noticed that the A/C compressor never shuts off regardless of switch positions. Condensor freezes up with resulting ill effects. I'm thinking "Oh God, what has this shmuck done to my truck?". Truck still has a few weeks of warranty left and a shocked local dealer said they'll check out his handywork to make sure it's not a pressure switch or something. More observations later.
  • imac1imac1 Member Posts: 4
    Just bought a new Double cab thats developed a creaking on the drivers right side seat bottom when turning or stopping. Anyone else have any similar problems with the seats? Would like to know the cause and solution to fixing. Thanks
  • seattle_scottseattle_scott Member Posts: 9
    Thanks dakar232.

    Did they change the design, or did they install the same thing?
  • olyeller1olyeller1 Member Posts: 4
    When I took my truck to the dealer today, i checked out some used prerunners they had. The fender flare weather stripping on the 01-02 models pull out easily. One was even missing. On a 99 they had, its design is different and is much more secure. Go figure.

    Regarding my truck, did some probing last night and found the daytime running lights control box under the hood tied next to the battery. The control wire was jammed in with the A/C fuse in the underhood fuse box, hence activation by the fan switch. The fuse box cover wouldn't even close, all courtesy of a Toyota dealer mechanic. Removed said hokeyness, however the compressor still won't shut off.

    More notables:
    - The console lid is hinged by a cheap flexible solid piece of plastic just like those in 70's camaros that always broke. I wonder when mine will.
    - The factory 6 1/2" speakers sound quite good in the front doors. The very same speakers sound pretty bad in the rear. Anyone know of a speaker enclosure that fits in the area behind the back speakers? No cab space-eating gargantuan sub enclosures, please.
    - A lot of the buzzies come from the front seatbelt reels. Tap the side of the rear interior panel for a demonstration. Even on brand new ones.
    - The ride quality is enigmatic. It manages to be firm and jittery on segmented concrete, loose and bouncy on humps and dips, then crashes over potholes. At least the structure feels solid.
    I sure hope the next-gen Tacoma is blessed with considerably more refinement.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Member Posts: 249
    Hello

    thinking of purchasing a 2002 Tacoma 2WD 4-cyl reg. cab in a couple of months.

    a few questions to clear up beforehand:

    1. Are Toyota pickup trucks 100% japanese design and 100% japanese motors?

    2. Where are Tacoma's assembled?

    3. I heard a rumour that Toyota's have japanese engines but GM bodies.... is that true?

    4. How does the 02 Tacoma compare with the 02 Nissan Frontier?
    Thanks!
    steve
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    1.)They have Japanese motors & Japanese bodies

    2.)They are assembled in Fremont, Calfornia

    3.)As far as comparing a 2wd 4cyl between Toy and Nissan. I doubt if you can find much of a difference. The Nissan will "probably" be cheaper, but Toys' are rated higher in reliability and resale.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Member Posts: 249
    appreciate the info -
    actually, with automatic tranny and A/C, the Tacomoa is still cheaper than the Frontier.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    And the Tacoma looks so much better - none of that stupid styling Nissan added. Much preferred the styling on Nissan's old hardbody pickups.

    But I hate the seats on my Tacoma!
  • dakar232dakar232 Member Posts: 12
    The dealer installed the same thing (no design change). So far it has held up just fine. What really cracked me up was that they replaced both front fender flares when only one was having the problem.
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