Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

1141517192041

Comments

  • peterteleppetertelep Member Posts: 3
    Dennis:
    Mine does work up to 50 ft. away, maybe more, and it doesn't matter what side of the truck I'm on, so I'd get yours replaced. pt
  • saddaddysaddaddy Member Posts: 566
    Rain-X would definitely help. I keep a good coat of that stuff on ALL the glass. Keeps water from spotting the glass, and just keeps it looking nice and clear.
  • ajkulacgajkulacg Member Posts: 3
    Hi all

    i was just wondering if anyone can answer me this. I got my oil changed last week and the dealer spilt it all over so it was leaking off of my skid-plate. That stopped now but when I was down there looking at it i noticed a purple clamp on my skid plate as it fell off from something. I also saw that it looks like they color code those since there were some blue ones on some hoses as well.

    Anyone know what those purple ones are for? I tried looking for some more but I could not find any.

    Ajk
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    Hmm......you might want to take the skidplate off, jack the front up and look around the oil filter (I'm assuming you got a V6). It's a PITA to get to the filter on V6s, you either have to go from below, or from the side through the wheelwell (my preferred method), and there are some hoses there that could be in the way, mainly one to the right of the filter. Just look for a hose that doesnt have a clamp on it.
    Sorry, but let this be a lesson to you......don't take your truck to a dealer. It's cheaper and safer to do it yourself.
    While you have the skidplate off, get some degreaser and spray it on the plate, that'll get old oil right off.
  • 46494649 Member Posts: 24
    Has anyone had the dealer upgrade their keyless entry on a Toyota Tacoma. I have a 2003 Prerunner with Keyless Entry and would also like to the alarm. How much did it cost?

    Thanks

    Dennis
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    and get a quote from them, then call car alarm places in town and get a quote from them.
  • twood2twood2 Member Posts: 11
    I had the same problem after my evaporator (not condenser) for my A/C was replaced which resides right behind the dashboard.

    The drain tube (which I believe is what normally causes the puddle under everyone's car after A/C use) was not aligned properly and was draining into my passenger side carpet instead of under the truck.

    They realingned it and the inside no longer got wet.

    Troy
  • ohmtbrohmtbr Member Posts: 2
    I have a new 2003 v6 DC Tacoma. It has about 1000 miles on it now. It seems to start very hard, like it's slow to fire up or something. It always starts, and it cranks over very well, it just doesn't light up very fast. Think: "one-thousand-one" then it's idling. Sometimes it runs a little rough for a second, too.

    I've owned many cars and trucks, and they all fire right up when you turn the ignition. Is this a Tacoma trait, or do I have something wrong?

    It runs well, and I'm getting good gas milage otherwise.

    Thanks!
    Mike
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    My '03 V6 does this also. Do not know how common it is though dealer states it is "normal". Takes a bit longer cranking prior to start than I would prefer. Mileage is about 19 mpg for me with 80% hiway and 20% city. Achieved only about 17 mpg until I had over 6,000 miles on the truck.
  • jlg69jlg69 Member Posts: 2
    i just purchased a '01 tacoma xtracab 4wd (50000 miles) and just noticed a squeak in the front passenger side area. sounds like its coming from either the suspension area or a body/frame problem under the passenger door area. Any one else ever dealt with this problem? Appreciate some help. thank you.
  • triplenet1triplenet1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a '02 Tacoma with TRD 4WD. It has developed an annoying squeek in the rear springs. When you get out of the truck, just slight movement produces it, it sounds like an old GM product with worn out front suspension when you drive it slow. I asked the dealer about it and they said another customer had complained, but they had not yet seen his truck to know about a fix. Any ideas other than soaking springs with oil (and attacting dust).

    Thanks,

    Bob
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    One suggestion is to pry the leafs apart, clean it up and put some lithium grease/WD40 there.
    Dealer won't be able to fix this.....so you'll have to live with it. My truck squeaks, even after lift, so does everyone elses'. Turn up the radio and keep driving :)
  • gsolisegsolise Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2003 tacoma 4X4 and I am scared to take it off roading because with the slightest rub on the truck it scatches or dents. The tailgate is so thin and weak you can't even sit on it. I would think with what they cost and being offroad they would be more durable!!
    Also why do they sell 4X4 trucks with street tires on them?? The first thing I did was by some mud tires. Other than that toyota trucks are great.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    1. Scratches and dents: you sure? I offroad mine, and so far all I got is TX pinstriping, a barely-noticable scratch in clearcoat that I can't buff out from when I backed into a branch that was sticking out on a trail, and it dragged itself on the side of my truck for 3 feet.
    2. Do everyone a favor: lose some weight :) I'm 200, and I stand on the tailgate with no problems.
    3. 4x4s come equipped stock with RoughTrail (or something) because you don't spend all your time 4x4'ing, and instead spend it on the road. Selling a Tacoma with BFG MT is a waste of time, b/c as trucks enter mainstream, more and more idiots buy them. Mud tires are slick in rain, and provide a lot less control. With RoughTrails, you get best of both worlds. They can stand up to some abuse on trails, and are good onroad.
  • gsolisegsolise Member Posts: 2
    Not that its your business but I only weigh 175. All I am saying is that the trucks are not at durable as they advertise them to be. I do agree with you on more idiots by them and half of them don't even go offroading. Thanks for the comments.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Are you sure that the squeak is coming from the leafs of the spring?

    If that's the case, take it to a spring shop and ask them to break the leafs apart and install silencers. These are usually very thin fiberglass reinforced nylon or some other material that fit between each leaf of the spring. These prevent metal-to-metal contact and will likely eliminate any noise.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • alkoalko Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem. Drived me crazy for a month. Here is how I fixed it - Used car jack to lift up the weel which leafs were squeaking and sprayed WD40 in between the leafs.
    That's all.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    If that's all you weight, I don't know what the problem is. I stand on my tailgate without problems. I did hear of people bending it while putting motorbikes into bed, but standing on the tailgate...no.
    I figure that no automotive company (unless you're buying Lexus and above) tells the complete truth about their vehicles. There aren't that many alternatives to a Tacoma, the only truck that even comes close to it is Ranger, but I'll take a Taco over it any day.
  • bstoutbstout Member Posts: 38
    This post is for the benefit of the users of this board and not intended to blast Toyota or their servicers. My check engine light recently started coming on with a P0171 error code(too lean). I stopped in to an unauthorized servicer who swore up and down the front O2 sensor was faulty. I purchased one from the Toyota dealership for $127.00 and installed it myself. This did nothing to solve the problem. I went to an authorized dealer who charged me $88.00 to diagnose a faulty MAF sensor or meter. MAF meter $147.00 + $88.00 diagnostic charge. I installed the MAF myself since it was only two screws and a plug in connector and took less than ten minutes. The authorized dealer wanted additional $50.00 if they had to do this. This also left them a way out if it didn't fix the problem which it didn't. The check engine light came on next day. Here we are almost $400.00 and NO results. Went back to Toyota dealer and they found a hose off. That WAS the problem all along, everybody knows it, nobody cares including Toyota proper. No refunds, poor service practices, sloppy company in general to do business with.

    I wouldn't buy another Toyota again, not even on my worst day!
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    My tailgate must be weak, too. I was hooking up a trailer to haul a big mower and failed to secure it to the ball. When I drove the mower up the ramp, the trailer tongue popped up and whomped my tailgate and put a huge dent in it. Flimsy, flimsy, metal. Or it could just be me in a hurry and being a MORON! Live and learn, I guess.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The weak tailgate is a recognized problem on the current Tacomas. Model prior to the Tacoma had sturdy tailgate. On the Tacoma the weak tailgate and poor quality seats are negatives, rest of the truck is great. If there is a better alternative out there I'd like to know about it.
  • jon2001jon2001 Member Posts: 3
    My 2001(4 cyl, 2.7) raps for a few seconds when starting cold. This is not noisy valves but a deep rap down in the engine. If I load the engine, the noise gets louder. After about 2 minutes it goes away. The truck has 50,000 miles and has been very well cared for. It has been doing this for about 5,000 miles and has not gotten worse.
    Any ideas what this might be. Is this common to the breed?
    Otherwise, its is a great vehicle, the best value on the market.
    Thanks for the help.

    Jon
  • nra1871nra1871 Member Posts: 26
    It's been nearly a year and 15K and change with my Tacoma and I just wanted to relay my experiences. So far I can honestly say that I don't have one complaint. It's a 2002 4x4 2.7L manual 265/70R16. I absolutely love this little engine. It feels more responsive than the 3L 6cyl in the Ranger I had before this (probably due to the manual vs automatic, but still damn impressive for a 4cyl). I'm getting between 22-23mpg on every tank, better than what the sticker says. I've been very impressed with it's construction, especially after backing into a tree at a pretty good clip. The result was a dent on the bumper. I actually have to point it out before most people notice. I don't really care for the tires (BF Goodrich Long Trails), I think they are wearing too fast and have marginal traction. My experience with this truck compared to my old Ranger is amazing. At this mileage with the other truck I had been towed for a tranny leak, had electrical problems with the wipers, and the engine had begun its infamous pinging. I see myself keeping this truck as long as I can. If I need more room for a family or whatever, I see myself getting a nice big sedan for those duties and keeping this for myself.
  • rmanbikermanbike Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchase a 2003 tacoma V6 and still waiting for the engine to break in and start properly. But at 900 miles still takes much longer to fire that it should. It cranks over fine. Dealer says they will check out the engine and electronics.
  • jlg69jlg69 Member Posts: 2
    had a squeak in the body/frame. put a jack under the frame to lift it up to rotate the tires. When i let it back down the squeak was no longer there. The only thing i can think is it must be in the body mount bushings. anyone else ever experience this?
  • jackskejackske Member Posts: 1
    rmanbike, I too have an '03 V6 tacoma (4x4) and at 5500 miles I'm still experiencing slow engine starts when I attempt cold starts. (avg 2-4 sec turnovers) I've also experienced my A/C going out on me. I was on a long drive from VA to OH and about 6 hours into the drive my A/C quit pumping out cold air. I shut the A/C off for about 45minutes and kicked it back on and everything worked again. It's actually the 2nd time it has happened to me. I believe the line may have been frozen but I don't know why the line freeze occured. Perhaps too much refrigerant in the line. Any suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. I haven't been too impressed so far with my Tacoma.
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    First let me ask members if they can forward a link to buy a genuine, no kidding, 1998 Toyota Tacoma Factory maintenance Manual. I have seen the Chiltons and Haynes stuff, and am not impressed. Too general, include T-100 and 4 runner stuff too often mixed in with the stuff I need.

    Here's the problem: Occasionally, the truck (1998 Tacoma 4x4 extra cab 3.4L 5 speed TRD) will just "click" when I hit the starter switch. I thought it might be the clutch cancel switch, but moved floormats and all out from under and it didn't help when fully depressed. I have had it not turn before when the mat was up under the pedal after a bath. The power windows work with no sluggishness, as do all the beeps and squeaks associated with powering up. Headlights work too. This leads me to believe the battery is good and has a good charge. After several times "clicking", the engine will turn over and start normally, so I am thinking solenoid or starter. Local parts house has the combo for $130 or so with core, and can check it for me if I yank it off and take it in. How much trouble is it to get off a 4x4? I have a boatload of tools and from what my Haynes manual says, it should be two bolts, two wires and free, but it also says I MAY have to take off the front wheel and lower the inner fender well to get to it. Any experiences with this malady would be appreciated. Good news is, I can almost always park on a hill around here. Thanks in advance for any help.

    Hank
  • eomckameyeomckamey Member Posts: 26
    Best price for original Toyota alarm is at:
    <http://store.yahoo.com/brandsportinc/toy-08586-04820.html>

    I installed this item on our new 2000 Tacoma. I note there is currently a discounted price...ie. less than I paid. Complete instructions come from Toyota and it is imperative that one follow the directions exactly....checking ea. off as completed. The system took about one day to install (working slowly but carefully) and everything worked perfectly on completion. Go for it! You can do it. :-)
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    A/C and slow starting problems: the same happens in california on a hot day, it's the truck.

    Slow starting: please stay on your dealer, their job is to blow you off.

    sc0rpi0: i think you have a TacoDC4x4 as well. the issue i had was in 4x4, i left my truck in a dirt parking lot for 3 days in 4x4hi and in park. when i got back and try to drive the truck, it seems like it was not in gear, i had the brake down, put in drive and 4x4hi, the truck won't move, i then played with the 4x4 shifter putting it in lo, and neutral, and the parking brake line seems like it was stuck on the 4x4 gear shift. has this happened to you, is this the "norm". after playing for a while i was able to get on my way.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    I have an extracab 4x4 with a 5spd.

    I can't say that this has ever happened to be before, I never had any issues with putting truck in gear after offroading. If you play in mud, it is possible that it'll get into your brakes, cake up in there and it may take a bit of effort to break up the dirt in brakes. That's my theory. But since it was just a dirt parking lot, it doesn't hold much water.

    But let me say that this is not a normal behavior. Don't go to a dealer with it (Toyota is not known for it's great customer service with customers who are not offroading, think what'll happen to you :). I suggest you ask this in forums on www.tacomaterritory.com , we have a bunch of guys with auto trannies who can help you out more.
  • chiweihochiweiho Member Posts: 51
    I will try www.tacomaterritory.com, thanks.
  • mnkyboymnkyboy Member Posts: 108
    Im trying to figure out what this could be. I first thought it was slipping of the clutch, but my friend seems to think is something wrong with the transmission. I bought a 1996 Tacoma 4cyl about 2 weeks ago. This is a weekend truck, so I havent driven it much since I bought it. When I first test drove it, it ran great, no problems. I then brought the truck to my mechanic the next day, again drove with no problem, great. The next day I brought it back to the owner, ran great. My mechanic did say the clutch had about 25% of its life left, and depending on how I drove, it may last up to a year. The next night after I brought the truck to the mechanic, we transfered the title in my name. When I drove the truck home, I started to get what I thought (or what it is) slipping of the clutch. Heres what happened. I would proceed to put the clutch in first, and the stick would "slip" or move back into neutral. This would happen as I release the clutch pedal. At first, holding the stick in the gear seemed to work, but then the gear grinded a bit, so that was a no go. I then tried second gear, and it worked fine. When I tried to go into third gear, it did the same thing. Someone did mention that I should check my transmissionn fluid. Is there a resorvior for this? If not, what do I look for?

    If anyone has ANY suggestions/comments, please post them. Thanks.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I'm no mechanic, but I once had an Opel Kadet that started doing something similar. Then it would pop out of gear (third) when I was just driving and did not have my foot on the brake. By the next day, and by the time I got out of Rocky Mountain National Park it was popping out of 2nd and 4th occasionally and wouldn't stay in 3rd at all. It turned out to be the forks in the transmission, so I had much of the tranny rebuilt. Based on my experience, definitely check the tranny fluid.

    I'll let the mechanics answer your question on where to check. There isn't a reservoir like for brakes, etc.
  • ncbeachboy69ncbeachboy69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab V-6 SR5. I bought it new and I have less than 10,000 miles on it. It has been a great truck with no problems until now. I noticed a faint rattle, almost like a diesel engine sounds when I am accelerating in the low rpm range. It is the loudest when I am on the highway and I slightly accelerate in overdrive. I took it to the Toyota dealership and they told me to put higher octane gas in it. They explained to me that this is some sort of spark plug detonation from using bad gas. I have tried putting 89 octane in and it seems to help a little, but I do not want to have to keep buying expensive gas just to keep my truck quiet. Can someone please help!
  • mnkyboymnkyboy Member Posts: 108
    I need to buy some clutch parts, but the Toyota dealer charges an arm and a leg (about $270). I found some parts online at ajusa.com, for about $154. They have 3 different manfacturers listed, ASCO/Asin, Exedy, and Advantex.
  • fpj2fpj2 Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 99 Taco bought it used and experienced the same problem. The floorboards were wet after it rained. Three trips to the dealership and several hundred dollars and it was fixed. They finally told me that there was a tech bulletin out that said the spot welds in the cowl were breaking causing the leak.

    The recommended fix I believe was a ton of silicone. Which I can see under the hood by the firewall. It did stop the leaking though so I guess I can't complain too much.
  • fpj2fpj2 Member Posts: 3
    I keep hearing about Cabin Filters. Does anyone know if there is a cabin filter on the Tacos. I have a 99 4cyl w/ A/C. I can't seem to find any info on it.
    If there is what is the recommended time to change it? Where is it located?
  • twood2twood2 Member Posts: 11
    Jon,
    Had a similar problem with my 95 Tacoma 2.7L 4 cyl 4X4. When I got my oil changed, I think they were only filling it with 5 qts of oil when the specs say 5.7 qts of oil.

    Don't know if this is it, but when I added another 1/2 qt to mine after the oil change, my knocks went away?

    twood2
  • twood2twood2 Member Posts: 11
    Hi all,
    I posted a message last year about bad mileage and I'm still getting bad mileage. Repair shops (four to be exact incl two Toyota Dealerships) state that they cannot find anything wrong with my 1995 Tacoma 2.7L 4 cyl. 4X4 because it doesn't throw any codes.

    I have done all the basic tune-up steps (plugs, wires, distr., rotor, fuel filter, air, PCV). Still a problem.

    Intersting thing is when I bought the truck at 110,000 miles, it needed a new catalyctic converter. A year to the day, I had it replaced again (so three total since I've purchased it). Right after cat replacement, mileage went from around 14-16 to 19-20?

    Mileage has been creeping down again (in the 17s right now) and it feels like the cat is going again. Temps are going down as well as I live in New England. I've also read how raw fuel from a rich mixture can burn the cat out?

    I have no idea what could be causing this? It does run rough (shakes when idling). Fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, temp sensor, O/2 sensor, any sensor??? A hose that could be loose like one of the recently published articles on Edmunds (which hose)? Nothing's giving a reading. Any ideas?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    Were in a couple of categories:
    1. Cosmetic. Front grill changed that year, so all mounts did too.
    2. Brakes. In 2001 Toyota went to 16" rims b/c they put large ABS calipers on all their trucks.
    3. I think there were some safety changes.

    Should be no changes as far as drivetrain goes. I use a generic '95+ manual which includes T100, 4Runner and Tacoma.
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    Well, the "clicking" began to get worse last week, so after parking on a hill for a month I decided to change the starter on my 98 Tacoma 3.4L 4x4 Extra Cab. You have to disconnect the battery, pull off the front right wheel, remove the liner on the inner fender well (4 clips), unplug one pigtail and unscrew one nut. Then you have to jack the vehicle up higher, get a 3' breaker bar and a boatload of extensions and swivels, and wheeze till you turn blue to get the bracket that is in the way (three bolts) and the two bolts that hold the starter to the bell housing to loosen up. Steel bolts in aluminum threads, some form of light corrosion seems to keep them at the factory original torque of however-much-the-impact-gun-will-hammer-them-in. After two hernias and enough WD-40 to float an aircraft carrier, they will finally come out. Then you just have to be the monkey boy from the freak show to get your human sized arms to grab the little beast and wiggle it out without poking holes in any ABS type lines. I put it back on much the same way, except without the use of an impact gun, and with some anti-sieze on the threads. About three hours for those of you so inclined. I got in the truck and hit the ingition/starter switch, and it actually STARTED! No clicking, no piddling around, just cranked right up. I figure if I can get another 167,000 out of this one, I'll be doing all right. Oh, and it does have a lifetime warranty!
  • christacomachristacoma Member Posts: 1
    Hello All,

    + I have a 2000 Taco Ext. Cab 4X4 2.7 4Cyldr 5 Speed.

    + Never had any problems, had dealer service at 25K and 48K. All oil changes under 5K miles, most near 3K.

    + Check engine light came on at 75K.

    + Brought it in to the dealer for diagnosis of CE Light and next scheduled maintenance.

    + Dealer asked me if I had a valve adjustment at 60K, I told them "No, didn't know it needed one." They said it absolutely must have one done then or you can have major problems with the valves, etc. I talked to other 4Cylndr. Tacoma owners they never heard of this, but it is in the manual.

    + After diagnosis they said "Cylinder 1 had a misfire, thus the CE Light". They said the valve in that cylinder was pretty far out of spec, so they did an adjustment and they said they "saved it" by bringing it back in to spec. They said they needed to "shim" the valve to bring it back within spec. They also did my maintenance (plugs, fluids, etc).

    + Drove it away, 4K Miles later (79K), Check Engine light came on again. They said same cylinder had a misfire but their technician put in the wrong spark plug in that cylinder. They replaced all spark plugs, and I drove it away.

    + 2 Days later, Check engine light came on again, they reported that the valve is out of spec again (0.06 accepted range is between 0.10 - 0.15). They said they "Don't know what is wrong with the engine, but in order to find out they need to do a TEARDOWN.

    + Dealer turned off Check Engine Light - at 82K Miles it came on again.

    + Dealer saie teardown of engine will cost $1,000 just to diagnose the problem. This seems weird that they can't diagnose the problem without tearing down the entire engine first. They said they may have the rebuild the top end of my engine.

    + My truck drive absolutely fine with no performance or fuel efficiency difference. Lately however it does seem to be idling a bit rough.

    Has anyone had a similar experience to this with their Tacoma? Any ideas about what is causing this misfire or what an "out of spec valve" can do to my engine?

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  • 1of4jars1of4jars Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Tacoma Pre-Runner, D Cab V6 (1100 mi) that also occasionally starts hard. At first I thought it was my imagination, but after reading some of these postings (I am new to the board), I am convinced the problem is real.

    Also, the mileage sucks. I have been pampering the vehicle through break-in period yet I am getting 16-17mpg. I increased tire pressure to 32 psi from factory 27 psi. Comments?
  • nra1871nra1871 Member Posts: 26
    1of4, my experience with my tacoma (2.7 manual) was that the mileage started at about 17-18mpg for the first 3000 miles or so, then gradually moved up to between 22-23mpg. The break in on these engines seems to take a little longer.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    You're not through the breakin period yet. Have patience. Also, do not be hoping for more than 18-19 mpg milage.....you have a V6 and a tall truck. My 4x4 gets 18mpg in mixed city/hwy driving, or was until temperatures dropped. Winter driving is here, gas milage goes down b/c of fuel additives and colder air.
    Realistically, you'll see 17-19 in the city, and on average, 19-20 on highway.
    Things you can do:
    1. Increase tire pressure. After the increase, do a chalk test to make sure your tire is wearing out correctly (although at 32 you're fine. I run 35 in my BFG AT)
    2. Switch to synthetic oil. It may be a myth that synthetics increase gas milage, but you get such benefits as better wear, longer time between changes. Overall, it may just come out to be the same $$ (if I don't have time to change my oil, I go to a dealer and bring my oil, you get a discount on the service since you're not using theirs). I run synthetic in the front/rear diffs, T-case, tranny and engine.
    3. Get better air filter. This is a tricky one, and you shouldn't do it unless you really want to. I'm talking about oiled filters, like Amsoil or K&N. There is some risk of throttle body sensor damage associated with them (seen a few people complain about it, but majority doesn't have problems). Oiled filters have a higher air volume specs (Allow more air through), which supplies more air to your engine, thus ECU reduces amnt of gas it needs to mix.
  • stududestudude Member Posts: 1
    I bought a New 2002 Tacoma Xtra Cab with automatic transmission.
    I do alot of weekend driving in the mountains and use the transmission as much as possible to slow the vehicle down when needed.
    At 10K I started to feel vibrations in the front end of the truck. At 15K the dealer smoothed the rotors and told me to stay off the brakes. Today at 17K the truck is back in the shop for the same vibrations in the front end, my guess the rotors.

    I do use the transmission to slow the truck down when possible and I have not carried heavy loads.

    Has anyone else experienced a high level of maintenance on their brake rotors?
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I have a 2000 5 speed Xtra cab Taco and I thought I was having rotor problems recently - the truck would vibrate as I was braking, mostly when I was slowing down at highway speeds above 60 mph. I had new rotors and pads put on since I was so sure that the problem was the rotors, but it turned out to be uneven wear on the driver's side brake pad!

    My driving is mostly highway with some mountain and a couple of stop and go spots occasionally on my commute home. I don't think I've had exceptional wear on the pads or rotors - both were original when I changed them out at 135,000 miles.
  • jon2001jon2001 Member Posts: 3
    I am taking my 2001 Tacoma in to the dealer tonight for diagnosis of a engine noise. I believe the noise is a connecting rod bearing but whatever it is it is pretty serious.
    What is my drivetrain warranty? Does anybody have any advice for getting satisfaction out of the dealer? The truck has 53,000 miles and has been very well cared for. This ain't supposed to happen, I was goin for 200,000 with this baby, just like in the commercials.......

    Jon
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    Drivetrain warranty is 60K miles. Don't let the dealer give you any ... about how it's your fault. If engine is going bad, it's their problem, not yours. If you don't have detailed maintenance records, they may try to blame you, but remember that the only way they can refuse warranty on a part is if they can directly tie a mistake on your part to failure (like if you put a lift on and go in for broken CV boot, it is your fault since suspension lift changes CV angles. It does not, however, cause transmission/clutch/engine problems). So make sure you got all maintenance records (receipts if you did maintenance outside dealership) with you.
    It should not be a hassle, but unfortunately there are bad dealers out there. Most don't give their customers any trouble, hope you get one of those.
    If your dealer refuses warranty, go to another one, or go directly to regional rep.
  • smcclementssmcclements Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner V6 3.4 Autotrans. When I am coming to a stop,while going less than 5 miles an hour it feels like the car is downshifting into first, or perhaps the brakes are grabbing, it feels like a downshift or a grabbing sensation. The dealer lubed the U Joints as they said they were dry and this didn't solve the problem. My truck has 840 miles on it. I have never had a truck do this. Advise. Thanks
This discussion has been closed.