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Comments
The 2004 RAV4 L has stability+traction control, autio control on steering wheel, privacy glass, and a bit better mpg.
The XS has automatic climate control, heated seats, standard side air bags, 6-CD stereo, and a bit more power.
I recommend a test drive of each.
Read that in one of many reviews, which I thought gave an extra plus to the stick, not to mention it is about $1000 less.
Have only reviewed about 10pages or so of this post, but I would say the larger 4 cyl. is great, and that I do not have any dash rattle. As to this raging debate about the tire carrier and the rear end crash thing, I must agree with several of you who have observed: "just dont' back into anything at 5 mph....." and as for someone bumping you, do as I did and get the trailer hitch package, and keep the bar and ball attached, which gives at least some extension for others to make contact with. Since I dont tow anything, I may consider switching out for the bar fender pictured awhile back. I will post milage after the 1000 mile breakin...have only 500 so far. Looking forward to sharing driving experiences.
Like Will Rogers, I only know what I read, and I've read several times that the RAV's front/rear drive split is 50/50 full-time, and no distinction MT or AT.
I've also read that one other vehicle (Forester) does vary with MT or AT.
The dealer fixed the problem to some extend, but not completely fixed. It's a issue not so obvious, so a couple of times the dealer just said "no rattle found, your car is perfect."
If your 2004 RAV4 has the same issue, please let your dealer know. I hope Toyota will issue a TSB because of your complains.
Other than this issue, the new 2004 RAV4 is a very nice car.
BTW, how much is APR rates if my credit is 758? My uncle said about 4% but I just want to make sure before I negotiate with my dealer.
I appreciate your help!
Jen
The S package includes the hood scoop, "S" badge, sport fabric, overfenders, heated color keyed exterior mirrors, color keyed door handles and tubular roof rack with stainless steel finish.
The L package includes leather steering wheel and shift knob, heated color keyed exterior mirrors, front fog lamps, rear privacy glass, tonneau cover, "L" badge, color keyed door handles, bumpers and molding and color keyed full spare tire cover.
Fo me, I don't like the hood scoop (the hood scoop does not increase the HP).
So, I may have confused the two, and sorry. Nevertheless, I am still enjoying the stick, and thank goodness, no rattle monster yet.......
As for hood scoops, lets leave them on the Forester turbo where they belong, along with the need for premium gas. Happy driving.
I just came back from the dealer and he said he'll sell it to me for $21,500. Destination fee included, I just have to add taxes.
Do you think $21,500 is a good price to pay?
BTW, would you know how much the % APR would be? I have excellent credit. Just want to ask her first so I don't get ripped off.
Jen
A 2004 RAV4 S 4WD without any otions has an invoice price of $20,010 ($18,970 (base) + $500 (S package) + $540 (dest.)).
The $21,500 looks high.
Ask the dealer to write down the code for each option on the car (the list of options is on the window sticker).
When I was shopping for a RAV4, the dealer tried to sell me a siver RAV4 S, which I believe I could buy it below invoice then.
I checked the website and it says that people in my area are buying it for around $21,500 under the TMV(true market value) column. Could it be wrong? Is it accurate?
Jen
AW 16" x 7" Aluminum Wheels
PN Anti-Theft System w/Engine Immobilizer
KE Keyless Entry
Are these options on the car you want to buy?
That's why I said to copy the code of each option on the window sticker, and then we can figure out the "invoice price" for *the car* you want to buy.
BTW, "AW, PN, KE" are the option codes I am talking about.
Don't rush to buy the car; do more research to fine out the details.
BUT, as the day warmed up, it went its way as I went mine...this morning it is only 44, and as you may expect...no rattle. obviously, something is contracting and expanding, and it would seem the rather detailed fix-it link previously posted may indeed do the trick...I will try it if we have a spell of extended cold weather, which is not likely here on the coast.
Regards to all, and happy trails..(Roy Rogers, not Will...)
I have an appointment with the dealer. Let's see if the dealer can tame this "rattle monster."
A 2004 "dash rattle" TSB will be nice to have.
V4 engine doesn't mean it's slower. However, in pick up speed, the RAV4 is quicker that my Rodeo. But it has a real high RMP and the VVTi makes the power very non-linear. Before you put your money on the RAV4, test drive the Saturn VUE. It has a Honda V6 engine. The only reason that I didn't go with the VUE was the rear drum brake and more expensive.
I'll see if the rattle comes back on Thursday when the temperature here is supposed to be between 0F and 20F.
About the power of 2004 RAV4, it's more than adequate for my daily commute. The engine is very responsive and quiet.
It seems the rattle occurs when the weather is cold and dry. The colder the temperature, the louder the rattle.
The rattle seems to disappear when *either* the windshield area is wet (caused by rain) or the temperature is more than 35F.
As for the contribution citing the Hyundai and the Ford product as possible choices, may I just suggest you consider resale value...to many THE most important factor in choosing a new car. I dare say Toyota products will far exceed Ford in this category, not to mention crach tests results.
Regards to all.
Mike
The RAV4 dash rattle is a well-known bug. There are TSBs related to this bug on the previous models. I am surprised that the 2004 RAV4 still has this problem.
The rattle seems to be under the hood beneath the windshield area, not inside the cabin.
Some RAV4 owners have joked it's a "feature" of the RAV4; buying a pair of ear plugs will fix the problem. :-(
It's too bad Toyota hasn't corrected by NOW...that not typical Toyota especially for machines that are built in JAPAN.
Mike
I've owned 6 Toyotas (Camrys, Tercels, Echo & Highlander) and have NOT had any major engine or transmission problems...most problems have been:
1. replaced alternator (80,000 miles)
2. replaced timing belt and hoses
3. replaced transmission fluids, cooling fluids, brake fluids
4. replaced spark plugs, battery
5. replaced heater/cooling fan motor
6. replaced door wiring bundle (window 80,000 miles)
7. Rubber CV boots...typical drying and cracking
8. Brakes and Mufflers
9. Head lights and running lights
10. Turn signal indicator switch (80,000 miles)
What type of problems can be expected for the RAV over time (8-10years).
Mike
The 2004 RAV4 is a very nice car. If you plan to buy one, make sure you drive the car over a few big bumps during the test-drive to make sure there is no strange noise coming from the base of the windshield.
BTW, there is a TSB similar to the "dash rattle" of the RAV4 for the new 2004 Lexus RX330.
TSB's for the 2004 Lexus RX330 (as of 1/14/04)
NV00603(20031024)
160000 STRUCTURE
**RATTLE NOISES COMING FROM THE CENTER OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AT THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD.
I like the RAV and leaning toward a purchase of this machine.
Mike
But if I had 2 kids, I think space would be one of my highest priorities. Gotta give that one to the CR-V. I don't see how you could go wrong with one of them.
Good luck.
-ss4
The area behind the back seats has plenty space for a stroller and other baby stuff.
A trip to the mall with 2 adults and 2 young kids in the car is fine for us. Highway driving is very smooth and quiet.
If you have older kids, then the Highlander is probably a better choice.
I paid around $22.7K (excluding tax+title) for a RAV4 L 4WD with side curtain bags and other options(MSRP $25.2K), but no leather seats and sun roof.
I can buy a base model, 2.4L Highlander for the same price. But I like to drive a smaller car for my daily commute (better handling, mpg and fun to drive), and to get all the safety features and nice options within our budget.
My next car (when the kids become bigger/older) is likley to be the hybrid Highlander.
The reasons that I bought a RAV4 instead of the CR-V are:
RAV4 has better safety features: 4-wheel ABS with EBD, stability+traction control, side curtain bags, tire pressure monitoring, audio control on the steering wheel, and full-time 4WD.
The RAV4 is aslo smoother and quieter when I test drove both. (I did not know about the dash rattle issue when I bought the RAV4.)
The main selling points for me are the safety features.
Make sure to test drive the cars you are interested in buying before signing the contract. I was planning to buy the CR-V, but realized that the 2004 RAV4 has standard features that you only can get in the Acura line.
I like Honda's simple LX/EX option arrangement. Toyota has a complicated way of putting options on their cars. For example, to get the side curtain bags, I need to get the L upgrade, which require the purchase of the expensive alloy wheels and other options that I don't need...
Rav4driver, those are also the same reasons I am now looking at Rav 4. Was pretty much decided on CRv but coworker said have you looked at hte Toyota and when I started looking, all hte nice things like traction control and stability control really stuck out. But it is so much smaller, which prompted this post to see if it is a real problem or if it is workable. Hope to go test drive one tomorrow.
We did have snow yesterday, but not today.
I'll have to cancel my appointment with the dealer tomorrow, because the tech staff probably will not be able to reproduce the rattle...
Ideally I want a RAV4 AWD MT with moonroof and leather seats and premium sound. Is this even possible?
Second, I am comparing the RAV4 MT (which I have not yet driven) with the Forester XS MT (which I have driven). I did not like the Forester's lack of assertivenes at 40-55 on open, back roads with curves and rolling hills (this is 70% of my driving). Would the RAV AWD MT be peppier in this range?
Zman
Mcdawgg...could you ask your dealer how he fixed...I would assume he put some type of rubber spacer in the plastic cowl that may vibrate agaisnt the metal hood region???
Mike
Ideally I want a RAV4 AWD MT with moonroof and leather seats and premium sound. Is this even possible?
Second, I am comparing the RAV4 MT (which I have not yet driven) with the Forester XS MT (which I have driven). I did not like the Forester's lack of assertivenes at 40-55 on open, back roads with curves and rolling hills (this is 70% of my driving). Would the RAV AWD MT be peppier in this range?"
I was told the same thing by a dealer today: No MT and leather without ordering from Japan. I'll bite it and get the car w/o leather. I also checked out all the vehicles listed by rbleland. With regard to the Forester, I looked at the XT. However, I found 2 problems: I was uncomfortable in the seat and, much more significantly, there is currently a NHTSA investigation of Subaru for ABS failures (specifically the '02 WRX). In my own investigation on forums, people are reporting the defect on most models including Foresters. The defect can reportedly cause near total brake failures extremely intermittently and unpredictably; perhaps once every few thousand miles. Having experienced the same type of problem on my '97 Toyota 4Runner, I don't want to risk it again. So, that brought me to the Rav4. The '04 improvements made it worth a look IMO so, I gave it a test drive and was really impressed. It's fun, safer (with all the airbags) and quicker. I actually really liked it and was surprised. I plan to place an order this week! Good luck.
I really would have liked to get the traction Control, and VSC the U.S. folks are getting. I wonder if this will be brought in next year in Canada and hurt the depreciation of the 03 model?
I do believe that the '04 RAV 2.4L engine is a big step up from the previous '03 and earlier RAV engines, which were 2L and tended to be "buzzy" at speed. My '04 RAV is not fully broken in yet, but it seems that 60mph is about 2300-2400rpms. For a small car-based SUV (or wagon if you prefer), I find the '04 RAV is very quiet (better than the previous ones). I have driven a friend's '03 CR-V and don't think it is appreciably different in NVH from the new RAV. I feel that the new RAV feels lighter to drive and is more "sporty". The RAV is about 200lbs lighter than the CR-V. You might check a few threads on CR-V engine fires for '03 CR-Vs but maybe just internet nonsense. Apparently, about 7 CR-V engines have caught fire after oil servicing in the U.S. in past few months. As to the VSC, traction control (and rear disc brakes I might add), I doubt it would hurt existing '04 RAVs much as the future model (if it got these things) would have to be priced higher (which is why I'm told the '04 RAV doesn't have rear discs in Canada). The '03 RAVs (you said '03 above) have to deal with being the last year of the 2.0L engine and if that will hurt their future value (I have no idea!!)
Both '04 RAV and CR-V are very good choices - you have to decide what things are most important to you and then pick.
If you know of ways to locate the problem area and perform the fixes, please share the info with me. Thanks for the help.
(Since the dealer had performed the rattle fix once, I felt that there is probably no financial incentive for them to fix it again under warranty.)
Didn't get to test drive a Rav4 yet, my little one got sick. Maybe this weekend. Almost hope its dash rattles so I can ask the salesman about it and see what kind of response I get.
My cowl was fixed years ago after the second try. They used a new cowl and a "revised" TSB. They also called the Toyota Tech line. It's been silent ever since.
Why do I say so? Because the way they tried to reproduce the problem.
Background: my car has the cowl rattle when the weather is cold and dry.
Imaging the car sitting in the garage over a cold night. The temperature was cold (10F ~ 25F) in the morning when I started my 25-mile commute to work across a country route that has potholes and bumps sparsely waiting ahead. A similar situation occurred when I started my commute back home, after the car sitting in the cold parking lot for several hours.
Now, consider how the dealer tested my car.
1. Kept the car in their warm building for at least 30 minutes before working on it.
2. The route they test-drove the car had minor bumps (they did not even drove the car over railroad tracks nearby).
3. Turned the dash vent to the "defrost" position, so that the hot air could blow in the windshield area, even thought it was sunny.
4. Told me how the car drove smoothly over a newly paved road (sure, I knew that).
In the end, they wrote down that they could not reproduce the problem...
I was thinking should I *bribe* the tech staff to get him seriously looking at my car? Or should I pay someone to get this issue fixed? Or should I live with this issue for as long as I own this car?
Maybe I should try fixing it myself since I am the one who owns this car and drives it daily...