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1. not drive over 55 mph
2. avoid full throttle starts
3. avoid hard stops during first 200 miles
4. not drive slowly with manual trans in high gear
5. not drive for a long time at any single speed, fast or slow
6. not tow a trailer during first 500 miles.
I would think a 400 mile trip, alternately speed once in awhile, would be a fine way to break it in. I have taken similar trips with other brand new Toyota's and they all ran great for years!
If it weren't for the low interest rates that were being offered at the time, and the rather good deal I got for the car, I would've headed back to the Honda dealer and signed the waiting list for a CR-V and pay MSRP (which wasn't much more, despite not being able to haggle).
That's just one reason why younger buyers stay away from Toyota, because they don't have the extra $$$ to pay for unnecessary stuff. Not to mention the fact that you can quickly find the right Honda (LX,EX etc) without the options nonsense.
I wouldn't know about it for off-roading, but I don't think serious off-roaders look at the RAV.
The QO package has all the basic niceties (a/c, power windows/mirrors/locks, 6-speaker AM/FM/CD/cassette, cruise control), and I doubt you could find a RAV on a dealer's lot that doesn't have at least the QO.
I think I got my money's worth (under US$21k with AWD and auto trans), and then some, with the QO package. And that was when the Gen 2s were new and demand was high (Jan 01). There are incentives and deals to be had now.
RAV on.
You could get that, a RAV configured just the way you want it, but that would have to be a special-order, and that means a 2-3 month wait, and it's still a crapshoot, based on the experiences of others ("lost" orders, unwilling dealers, etc).
After getting over your "sticker shock", you'll hopefully be happy with the vehicle/price in the long run.
And if you can throw in some power amenities, now you're really talking!
It would AT LEAST be a little better if this pricing scheme were actually carried out in reality, but I defy anyone out there to find a 4x4 RAV with none of the packages - neither quick order nor L, or now sport in the '03 model. You just won't find one...and that is how Toyota is being very deceptive about the price on this vehicle, IMHO.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Those are now all standard features in the COROLLA, at least minus the locks, and that car costs upwards of $5K less than the RAV!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Does it loosen up with time? Sometimes a simple pull does the truck, but most of the time you really have to yank it.
rav4d2: I've seen a couple complaints about RAV4 moonroof leakage and rattle noise (and scratching), but I don't know how common this is.
Personally, I've had "issues" with sunroofs (on 2 VWs), so I avoid them.
It is recommended that you drive with the overdrive on at all times to improve gas mileage and promote longer engine life. The only time you MAY want to drive with the OD off is when driving on extremely hilly terrain and the vehicle does a lot shifting up and down searching for gears. Some may suggest that it will give you a little more power because of the different gear settings while the OD is off. However the trade-off is the motor revs higher and gas mileage suffers.
The moonroof has creaked when closed in all of the new Toyotas I have driven in the last year or so. But I don't think leakage is a problem.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As far as rattles, noises, etc. I really haven't had major problems.
This helped.
But like I said, I now avoid sun/moonroofs.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am in California, I order a Rav4 4X2 automatic with QO package will cost $18856 (not include tax and license). Is a reasonable price ?
The QO package does not include the sunroof. That is an extra option.
Your price for a 2WD automatic QO sounds okay, about $2k less than my 4WD automatic QO (in Jan '01).
How does your price compare with edmunds' TMV?
My daughter wanted a RAV with 2wd, 5-speed, ABS, L package (which requires alloy wheels), and moonroof. It didn't take long to find out that Toyota did not import such cars into California (the ABS was the hangup). Longo Toyota agreed to special-order the car from Japan at $500 over invoice, but warned that it might take 4 months to arrive. The weird thing (which the salesman says is not unusual with special orders) is that the car never appeared on any computer listing. It just showed up today at Longo, exactly as we ordered it, without apparently ever having officially existed.
So, if you're thinking of special-ordering a RAV and are willing to wait, it can be done, but you may find it to be an exasperating experience. At times, I would have given odds that our car would never arrive.
By the way, the car turned out to be a 2003 model with an invoice price about $550 LESS than the 2002 model (most of the savings coming from a substantially reduced price on the L package). The invooice on this RAV was about $19,250.
Nearly 4 months is a long time to wait for a new vehicle, but at least you got exactly what you wanted by your willingness to be patient.
Hope your daughter enjoys her RAV, and that, in the end, you think it was worth the wait.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It's pretty much all looks. Since I didn't test drive a regular or L RAV4, I can't say. Here are the different I can think of. The graphite gray is only for the sport package RAV, it's the same color used on the IS300. The hood scoop is cover and insulated from the inside. Things I don't like compare to L package. The S doesn't come with fog lamp, tonneau cover, and hard shell tire cover. Didn't really care if the side molding color match or not.
PS. I had the dealer add the tonneau cover as a dealer option.
It is just my little worthless opinion, but while hood scoops enhance the looks of sporty cars, like coupes, they look a little silly on trucks, especially the RAV, which is no sports car!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have driven RAV extensively, and one thing it is not, to me, is very sporty...it would need more power for that. It is great just the way it is, but if I were Toyota looking for a way to refresh its image a little, I would probably do something to accentuate its enormous utility, rather than its questionable sport appeal...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
And maybe sporty is not the best word for the RAV, but it sure is nimble.
No problems with winds here in California. Just stable and runs fine. No problems about getting pushed about in moderate winds. Don't have hurricanes like back east however
No problems with on/off ramps even fully loaded in back with boxes of heavy stuff. Just floor the baby and off it goes. Nice pickup even between 30-60mph and it merges securely and safe with the usual killer LA traffic. Don't know about towing, so can't say there. Basically, if you've driven a Civic or compact sedan, it runs just like one. Scoots well and just goes w/o much complaint.
Very nice for a daily commuter and shopper car. Easy as pie to park, quick to maneuver, sure responsive steering, low effort go. Easy, comfy, and goes.
See my other post in Corolla vs. RAV4 for a longer list of pluses.
Merging on to the freeway is no problem. I drove a sporty coupe with the same engine size for couple years. The RAV4 seems have the same pick up. Although, the RAV4 is rated 2 second slower.
I also need 4WD, here in Connecticut we get lots of bad weather, especially in winter. I'm not some California sun chaser who can suffice with only 2WD.
Thanks for any help.
After much research I just purchased a 2002 RAV 4 3 wks ago... L package... 2WD Auto with ABS. So far it is great...I like everything, except for some reason, I am getting terrible gas milage. I drive quite a bit between the SF bay area and LA... and on it's maiden voyage down I-5... I noticed I was only averaging about 20.1 mpg as opposed to the 29 it's supposed to get.
A few facts: I did not wait 1000 miles before going over 55... that's pretty much impossible on the freeway. I don't drive slowly... I am quite aggressive and usually average around 85 on the freeway. I did check the tire pressure... psi is about 31 all around. I just got back and have just over 1000 miles now. This really concerns me becuz the milage was a big decision in my purchase. I realize I go quite a bit faster and am a more aggressive driver, but I believe I should at least get the city mpg on the highway which is 24... this would make a huge difference, esp. here in CA.
According to other posts I have seen... the milage will continue to increase. So my questions are ... have I damaged my new car by not "breaking in" the engine for the 1st 1000 miles? Has anybody gotten such terrible milage off the bat and can I expect it to improve? If so... any ideas about how many miles before this occurs? Any other ideas about improving milage (besides slowing down? With mixed city driving... it got about the same milage... still lower than it's suppossed to be. (can i arbitrate with toyota if the milage doesn't improve?) Any insights would be great. Otherwise... so far it is a great car, but this milage thing may be a deal breaker! - Thanks!
No, you cannot arbitrate with Toyota over the mileage, and it is not a lemon unless there is something specifically, mechanically, wrong with it. The mileage figures on the sticker are merely estimates put there by the EPA, and they state you could get a wide range of mileage around their numbers.
My experience has been that I can always get the freeway number around town, because I have a very conservative driving style. I can usually exceed the highway number by at least 10% on an all-highway drive. HOWEVER, THE SOLE EXCEPTION to this for me was the RAV. This car is rated 23/27 in AWD, which is the model I had for a couple of weeks, and in all the driving (more than 1000 miles) I did, I could never get more than 25 mpg in that car. Since you quote 29 mpg for highway, I am assuming you have a 2WD instead. So the best you could hope for is maybe 26-27, unless you drive SUPER-FRUGALLY (believe me, I already drive fairly frugally all the time!).
And no, you did not wreck the engine by going 85 mph in the break-in period (and by doing sustained speeds for extended lengths of time, if I can read between the lines accurately). BUT, the guy who owns your RAV when it turns over 100K miles is going to hate you! LOL
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am looking at my sticker now and the little average milage disclaimer says "milage will vary with conditions ... blah blah blah, but results reported to EPA indicate that the majority of vehicles with these estimates will achieve between 20 to 28mpg in the city and 24 to 34 mpg on the highway..." at this point... I would love to get 24mpg on the highway,
my experience with cars is limited... but I compare it to my old little honda civic, that was driven under the same conditions (i realize the rav 4 is not a honda civic coupe) and the gas milage was still much higher in the city than the highway.... guess I'm just looking to hear that the gas milage will improve... at least somewhat over a certain period of time... but once again... any advice is great - Thanks!
I take it easy on takeoffs, because heavy acceleration is a mileage killer.
At 31k+ total miles, on an '01 with auto trans and AWD, I am typically getting mileage of 26+ (60/40 hwy/suburbs) up to 29+ (all highway, 70mph).
Would be easier for washing/waxing and when the snow arrives if the cross rails can come off.
Anyone know of a good WWW site for buying tire chains? I have to have them by law here in CA, although don't plan on using them with the AWD.
Thanx
Steve
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The guy who bought my rack did it, but I don't remember how, for sure.
I kind of remember that you have to ~carefully~ pry off the side-rail end pieces, then loosen the cross-rails and slide them back and off at the end of the channel.
Hope this helps.