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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006

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Comments

  • denokdenok Member Posts: 1
    I live in Belleville NJ. Need to buy a new car. Route 22 Toyota, a local dealer here gave me this response when I inquired about RAV4.

    "On the 4x4 Limited, with an MSRP of $24,700 You can buy the vehicle
    for $22,550. This vehicle does have the ABS brakes, Sunroof, Alloy
    Wheels, Keyless Entry, Wide Mud Guards, Roof Rack, "L" Package, and Daytime
    Running Lights."

     Is it a fair price?
  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    Hey! I am also looking for the exact same car with equipments and quoted for $22990 plus $100 doc. fee and $100 reg. & title. But they also mentioned the factory alarm system in addition to the Keyless entry. I don't know if they are talking about the Anti-Theft system or the VIP R3200 system. Anyone knows the different? Anyway, your price is better than mine. Go for it.

    Beside this dealer, another dealer quoted $300 over invoice for any RAV4 in stock.
  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    Hi! I want to know if anyone has the all-weather rubber mats and cargo liner from Toyota. Are they as good as the WeatherTech rubber mats?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    shuts down the ignition if it does not detect the car's correct key, so that the car cannot be driven.

    If you get the Toyota 3200 alarm system, it adds a glass breakage sensor and an audible alarm if the car is broken into or a start-up is attempted without first disabling the alarm (in addition to ignition AND fuel pump kills).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    Yes. It is the VIP R3200 Plus Security System (code = V5). It must be the type you just expalined. It looks like the horn will goes off and the headlights will flash. It is good thing they have it on the car. And all for $22990.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    We own a '96 Rav and the indicator light on the shifter between the two front seats (the one that indicates PARK, REVERSE etc.) has blown out. A Toyota mechanic (w/out seeing the car) estimates replacing the bulb at $80. Personally I'd let it go but the wife thinks differently. Is this something I can tackle myself? Is it really that involved?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Note that anyone appears to hang in this forum...everyone must be buying CRVs!!!

    A local mechanic replaced the bulb in under 10 minutes.....hope that Toyota quote was in error!

    New question, Power window makes groaning noise when lowered....sounds ok going up. Any ideas? Anyone have a motor replaced...how much $$$!!!!!
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    The window-lowering motor is about $150, plus labor.

    You're actually lucky. The window-raising motor is much more expensive.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    any idea on the labor...and what about the raising motor...would have thought it was all one motor.....any value in having both replaced all at once...cost?

    THANKS!!!!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    everyone is aware that was a sarcastic joke? There is only one motor, used for raising and lowering the window. The labor should be an hour or so, depending on design. I would be very surprised if the whole job went more than $250, and that is at California prices.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • debrahundebrahun Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know the towing capability of the RAV4?
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    debrahun: The '01 RAV is tow-rated at 1,500 lbs (in the US).

    nippononly: Correct, it was sarcastic. A payback for the "out buying CR-Vs" remark. Da noive.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Don't do that to me...this sucker has already had a new short engine block installed, tranny worked on....all under warranty but lets just say we won't be getting another RAV.....
  • skipper53skipper53 Member Posts: 12
    On my 2002 RAV4, I placed the rear center seatbelt latch into the 'roof holder' ... and now it is stuck there. I can't figure out how to remove it. I have consulted the owner's manual, but the directions are vague and it just doesn't work as described. Anyone else had this problem and know a solution?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Can anyone tell me on a 2001 Rav 4 4wd auto tranny, where is the transfer case drain and refill locations, and how often should the fluid be changed under 50% highway, 50% city miles?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    has a transfer case? It is AWD, not 4WD.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ccco1ccco1 Member Posts: 9
    I bought a new RAV4(2003) about a month ago. It's a 4WD. The transfer case is connected to the auto transaxle/engine block. All you have to do is look for the drive shaft that goes to the rear differential. It's the case that the drive shaft is connected to. The drain/fill plugs are large, about 24MM. The fill plug on mine was very tight, I took it out to check the oil level. The owners manual said that it holds 1qt. of fluid: SAE GL-5 90W. The same for the rear diff. I haven't look up when it should be changed, but I am going to change mine once every year or two, depending on how many miles I drive. It's only 1qt. and cheap insurance.

    One thing you want to do if you change it yourself, is to loosen the fill plug before you take out the drain plug. If you can't get the fill plug loose after you take out the drain plug you're in for a very interesting time! It's also a good idea to check the level again after you have driven it a couple of miles.

    Hope that helps.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    is AWD folks, even though Toyota writes "4WD" on it. AWD cars also have a rear diff and a drive shaft - couldn't drive "all" the wheels without them.

    A transfer case is something 4WD trucks have that have a low range reduction gear separate from the main body of the transmission.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Thanks for the info. How do you know the level is correct - just fill it until it is at the bottom of the fill hole or overflows? How tight should the fill and drain plugs be - same as an engine oil drain plug?
  • mckee4mckee4 Member Posts: 47
    Recently took my wife's 2003 RAV4 purchased ~ 3-months ago on it's first road trip to
    Arkansas to visit relatives. Had three (3) in the car plus luggage small cooler inside,
    nothing on the roof rack. Essentially the RAV4 is a base model spruced up at the dealers
    with add-ons and extra equipment. My wife originally wanted a white Sport model but the
    dealer had none at the time. She settled on a Spectra Mica blue (which is nice looking
    clean) with auto. and other options. Price was invoice+ $400. The dealer had added
    window-tint and other stuff which was negotiated to about .25 on the dollar, because they
    wanted to move the RAV4. We think we got a good deal for drive-out.

    The road trip was about 900 miles round-trip and it gave a pretty good chance to
    learn about the strengths/weaknesses of the RAV4. Here are some unscientific
    observations :
                       - The RAV4 can hold luggage for three including two women and
                          have a little space left-over, (1) pullman, (1) suitbag, (3)
                          medium duffel-size carry-ons, (1) small carry-on, wedding gifts, etc.
                       - The mileage was fantastic on the highway. High was 29 MPG on
                          one stretch. Low was 22 MPG. My Ford Escape V6 hovers at
                          18-22 constantly city/hwy., no change.
                       - Went through some massive rainstorms and wind (70 MPH gusts)
                          in Oklahoma. The RAV4 was stable and did not feel tipsy or
                          otherwise unsafe going through this. The ride was stable throughout
                          the trip and reasonably smooth as well.
                       - Though roomy throughout, the rear-seat was a bit uncomfortable.
                       - Driver and passenger front-seat comfort in adequate IMHO, but not
                          great. I found myself fatiguing a bit more in these seats.
                       - The seat fabric used in the base model and 'L' model seems to 'pick'
                          and 'pill' a bit more than usual. I may have to ask Toyota about this.
                          None of us in the car had or were wearing anything that would cause
                          the fabric to pick and or pill.
                       - Horsepower is adequate, especially once the engine is broken-in and
                          even feels peppy in some applications. However, IMHO, another
                          30 HP would do wonders. Toyota could wring an 30 ponies from a
                          replacement engine. Either a larger 4-cylinder or a small V-6. Maybe
                          when the new models come out in a couple of years....
                       - Overall a competent vehicle with a few areas for improvement.
  • ccco1ccco1 Member Posts: 9
    Just fill it up to the bottom of the fill hole. The Repair Manual has the Torgue settings listed as: 49 Nm or in American it is 36 ft-lbs. That's for both the fill and drain plugs.

    These torgue settings are the same for the rear differential plugs also.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    On my '01 RAV, the middle rear belt just wedges up into the top ceiling slot - there is no latch. So all I have to do is yank on the exposed portion of the belt (where it passes over the middle piece of plastic, between the in and the out slots) and the metal blade "un-wedges" itself.

    Hope this helps.

    -ss4
  • rav4buyerrav4buyer Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have a 97 Rav4 with 86k miles. I am planning to drive it for another 10-12k miles before selling. Recommended mileage for changing timing belt is, I think, 90k miles. I was wondering if I can go upto 100k without changing it? I am debating if it is worth spending $500 on changing timing belt and driving for another year or sell it now. I read somewhere that with these new engines, even if timing belt breaks, it does not cause any serious damage. How accurate is that? Anyone who has driven their Toyota beyond 90k miles without changing timing belt, please comment. Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please update your Town Hall profile to include a current and valid email address.

    The member agreement requires it.

    Thanks.

    tidester, host
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    I've also read that Toyota designs its engines so that a timing belt failure does not damage the valves. It was an article by Car Talk's Click 'n' Clack the Tappet Brothers (I think), and posted in a Toyota service department. The article also said that Honda's engines are not so forgiving.
  • uncommonmanuncommonman Member Posts: 65
    I believe you are correct. Like you, my friend Tom, who until 2 years ago worked in an auto parts store, always said "Toyota designs it's engines so that a timing belt failure does not damage the valves, but Honda's engine is not so forgiving". He bought a Toyota.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    Seems like your friend Tom talks exactly like me.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    if you are planning to sell in a year or so, I wouldn't replace the belt if it were me. It is true the engine internals will not be damaged if the belt breaks, although you might be damaged if it quits at 70 mph on a busy interstate!

    Be aware that most buyers are not chumps in this internet age, so prospective buyers will know it is due and you didn't do it, and expect a discount for something they can reasonably insist should be done "right away".

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rscooterrscooter Member Posts: 1
    lok888--I live in MA also. which dealership are you going to?
  • libertycatlibertycat Member Posts: 593
    but when you add in value, it drops to third after the Sante Fe.
  • i_luv_toyotai_luv_toyota Member Posts: 350
    Any news yet on any updates?

    This board is moving just short of a glacial pace!
  • ravenousravenous Member Posts: 13
    3rd fave after Santa Fe? "Value" can be very subjective. If a vehicle has sluggish acceleration and shoddy build quality, I'd say its value diminishes a bit. And, much as I hate to admit, appearance has value, too!

    My 2 cents; nothing personal.
  • sacstate1sacstate1 Member Posts: 189
    I have read unofficially that the Rav4 will be phased out in '05 for a new off-road design code named FJ40 by Toyota. Have you heard/read anything on this unproven topic?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    what I read is that when they bring in the FJ40 for the 2006 model year they feel it will compete too much with RAV, which is why they are dropping RAV. But RAV will apparently run through its life cycle and for a year or so they will be sold concurrently.

    The FJ40 is a two-door mini-ute styled to look like the original FJ40 Land Cruiser from the early 70s. It will be more trucky and suited to offroading than the RAV. I believe it is supposed to compete directly with Wrangler, or something.

    Perhaps by then there will be such an enormous market for crossovers that Toyota will decide to keep the RAV and introduce a gen 3.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • wheelz4wheelz4 Member Posts: 569
    Just read where the 2004 is getting, along with some minor cosmetic tweaks, the Highlander's 2.4
    4 cyl......I believe they said it was good for 160-161 hp in the Rav.....now it's more than competitive with the CR-V, new Outlander, Forester (but not turbo) etc. I really hope they keep the Rav4 around for a 3rd generation. Now that it's got a decent engine, it can grow a bit to better compete with the CR-V. And please, give the next gen. a proper hatch, or maybe a split tailgate like the Element. I think the FJ40 will be more hard-core off-road, so there is plenty of room (and market share) for Toyota to keep the Rav4.
  • i_luv_toyotai_luv_toyota Member Posts: 350
    I don't think Toyota should drop the RAV4, because like wheelz4 said the FJ40 will be geared to offroad (ie rough ride, high climb in height, etc), whereas the RAV4 is geared to pavement.

    Toyota will lose market to people who want a small on-road SUV that can handle minor off-road (like fire trails) situations if RAV4 is dropped permantly.

    With the 2.4-liter engine, the RAV4 finally eliminated the power problem, so move over CRV, Toyota's coming through!!

    I don't think Toyota would go through the trouble of upgrading the engine if the car was going to be dropped in a couple years, so I personally think the RAV4 will stick around for a while to come.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    they haven't upgraded the engine, they have merely dropped in a different engine they already had...but I agree, it would be a big mistake for Toyota to drop the RAV. I remember when it was new for the second gen, it was their best-selling "SUV", and sales are still pretty good now, 3 years later...and this 2.4L engine will make a big difference...I wonder how much mileage will suffer, if at all.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • hal9001hal9001 Member Posts: 28
    I am interested in buying a new RAV4 next year when I move to Minnesota (got a Corolla now)
    I would like to know what kind of gas mileage people are really getting, as opposed to the mystical EPA figures. Please include equipment; auto/manual, AWD/FWD; driving style, terrain, temperature and anything else you might feel pertinent. Thanks a bunch
  • ravenousravenous Member Posts: 13
    I live in the flat, humid tropics of Louisiana, and I generally drive a vehicle hard. (With the RAV's awesome response/handling/braking, it's just too much fun to do otherwise!) I routinely get 24-25 mpg in the city. Last spring, we drove to Dallas, TX and actually got 31 mpg on one of the tankfuls. There were 3 of us in the car, and we ran the air conditioning most of the way. Equipment:

    2003 model, Sport Package
    FWD
    5-speed
    16-inch wheels

    Good luck! If you're like me, you were hooked on the first test drive!
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    hal9001: My 2001 RAV, AWD, auto trans, driven easily, has gotten 24.8 mpg over its first 44,000 miles, mostly on flat land, mixed suburbs/highway driving, mixed temperatures (20-95), some a/c. Best I've gotten on a tankful was 28 on the interstate a couple times.

    With MTBE in the gas, I've found the mileage penalty to be 2mpg+. NJ requires this in winter. I was just in Maine (August), and a gas pump sticker said MTBE was added. If the sticker was correct, looks like they may use it year-round up there. Don't know about Minnesota.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Our '96 Rav suffered antifreeze mixing into the oil back in '99 or so. Under warranty Toyota replaced the head gasket I believe. Over the following year the idling was never right. They tried a multitude of things before finally installing a new short engine block 2 - 3 years ago....under warranty. Now I again am getting a cloud of white smoke on a cold start. I am fearing the head gasket again. I am also concerned Toyota will not be so friendly on the reapir now that the car is out of warranty. Could the head gasket be the problem--even only after 2.5 years and less than 30K miles? Anyone else have similar problems or did I just get a lemon? THANKS!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    (1) a little condensation in the exhaust first thing in the morning is normal.

    (2) if it is actually grayish smoke, that may be the valve seals, which may have hardened as they aged...this has been an issue with the last gen Camry, many of which were smoking first thing in the morning by 100K or so. If it is this, you can continue to drive it - keep an eye on the oil level.

    (3) if it really is the white steam cloud that comes from a blown head gasket, it will be easy to ascertain, because you will be going through a lot of coolant (check the expansion tank). In this case, don't drive it, as you will most likely wind up overheating somewhere.

    I kind of doubt you would get much help from Toyota...it is well out of the original warranty, and four years (you said '99?) since the head work they did before. You could always take it up with them though - you never know.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    I just heard that the '04 RAV4s coming into the Port of Portland OR have the 2.4 liter engine, probably the same one in the Highlander, with 160 hp.

    So it appears that the rumors were true. I was wrong in my earlier pooh-poohing prognostication.
    But I'm happy to hear there is more power for those that want or need it.

    Only problem is now we'll be seeing a lot more RAVs on the road, I'm guessing. Oh well.

    RAV on.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    96 Rav...I looked again this morning..the cloud was not as bad this time and was perhaps more greyish in color. All fluid levels are normal...we are due for out quarterly oil change as well. If it is valve seals like the prior gen Camry...shouldn't these have been replaced when the new short engine block was installed (this was actually in mid 2000 by the way). Could the new engine block have come with the crappy defective seals? The car has only 72K miles on it...probably 25K on the new engine...low for a 96.....this car sure does not represent that Toyota quality you are always hearing about. I could make the argument that American cars will go 200K (like you always hear about Toyota) if you include changing the gaskets/seals every 60K. I though these parts were worry free on Toyotas....
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    The valve seals are in the head, and not part of the short block (does not include the head), so they wouldn't have been replaced during that swap.

    I heard that the Gen 1 RAVs had some valve seal problems, but that Toyota replaced them free for owners with the problem. Some may have been out of warranty.
    Don't know if that would apply to your case after all this time, but it might be worth a try. The dealer / service manager might agree that this is a known problem.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Thanks...the grey smoke was much less today...I had to jump out of the car to even notice it....we'll see what Toyota says Monday...this was not that engine issue with Camry's where Toyota was denying repsonsibility and forcing folks to bring in receipts for oil changes was it....I have my receipts!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    that was engine sludging - completely different!

    if the morning smoke were really a blown head gasket, you would have overheated by now if you are still driving it regularly and not adding coolant. i will bet it is the valve seals - check with the Toyota service writer. There may be coverage for it.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    1996 RAV Valve Seals...Well it appears the valve seals replaced 2 - 3 years ago (but only 24K miles ago) have worn out and will cost $1300 to replace. They were replaced 24K miles ago when Toyota changed the short engine block. I feel the seals should last more than 24K miles....In fact even if they were the original seals with 76K miles on them they should not need to be replaced. I told the dealer to forget the repair and I would be contacting Toyota. They charged me $69 for the diagnosis/compression check that showed 185 on each cylinder---whatever that means. They also told me there is little chance of Toyota helping me out....and they certainly wouldn't be helping me out or supporting me. (They also told me my oil level was down 1/2 qt since my last oil change 3 months ago---I checked it beforehand and it was full and threatened they might even find sludge in there) We do you guys think? Am I unreasonable to expect seals to last more than 24K? Should I just ignore the puff of smoke on cold mornings until I get rid of the car? Does $1300 sound excessive for the job? This car was a lemon from the beginning---can't tell you how many times we were at the dealer culminating in the short block replacement. The car fine after that until now...
  • ak4net2ak4net2 Member Posts: 4
    I am looking to buy a new RAV4 (2003) or a Subaru Impreza 2.5T (2004) within 1 week.

    Please advise. My criteria are: should have good pick-up/ power, good internal comfort, has to be automatic, OK-looks, milage and safety. Both I and my wife need to drive. Need not go off-road and rare snow here in Richmond. Therefore I am wondering if I really need AWD for FWD is OK. I may also indulge in a sun-roof but may need a aftermarket one for Subaru.
    I have got quotes of ~21000 for RAV4 and ~20000 for Subaru.

    Please do advise. Thanks
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Look at the Honda CRV, save some $$$, get better acceleration, gas mileage and a roomier interior...to me the Rav4 does not compete...a Highlander on the other hand.....but then we are talking more money.
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