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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    I found this on the 4x4wire.com for all 2nd gens:

    I don't know of a "correct" or neat way. I just disconnect the hose from the resevoir and allow it to spill into a container. Once it's empty I reconnect the hose and refill. If you want to get a thorough draining, someone could turn over the engine for you and turn the steering wheel, all the fluid will definately run out.
    It will be messy.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    FWIW I would go with the items you noted.

    As to the plugs, I think they are supposed to last 100k miles. I suspect they will do that but potentially they could sort of fuse in there if left untouched that long. Therefore I thinking somewhere in the 60-75kmi./4-5yr. range is probably a good time to replace.

    On other vehicles I have replaced the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. In hindsight sometimes I think this was a good move. Other times I think it was overkill. I guess if I brokedown without the change I would have a firmer take. Also, changing the idler pulley is probably a good idea.

    I have a large syringe that I use to suck out some power steering fluid every oil change. Rather than having a needle on the end I have some very fine tubing. I find that I can just barely snake around the outside of the "basket" and get to the bottom of the reservoir.

    Another suggestion, especially if you have hard water, is to use purified water when mixing your new coolant.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Where did you position a container? How much of the fluid drained out? Was it easy enough to disconnect and reconnect the hose?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I have also done the disconnect the hose technique. It came off with no problem. I stuck another hose into the end of that hose and then ran that hose into a bucket. My helper then started the engine while I poured new fluid into the reservoir. Just be prepared to have the old fluid pump out very quickly. It has been a while but I am thinking I got out maybe a little over a quart. I have since gone to the less efficient but much easier syringe method.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    breakor, what vehicle do you have? Unless I can get the screen/disc cover thing off, I can't use a syringe or other device to extract fluid from the reservoir.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    In my 99 Trooper there are some tiny gaps between the inside rim of the housing and the outside rim of the "basket". By pushing slightly on the basket and using very small tubing I can get down to the bottom of the reservoir.

    Maybe that inner basket (or just the screen part?) does pop out. However I couldn't get mine to budge, at least with the force I was willing to apply as I was afraid the plastic would break.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    breakor, sounds like my 98 Troop has the same P/S reservoir as yours. The turkey baster I tried using is way too fat to squeeze along the sides as you are describing.

    I tried unsuccessfully to get the middle "basket" to pop out of there. Actually, by turning/twisting it and then jockeying it a bit, I was able to pull it up about 1/4" but it didn't want to come all the way out. Like you, I was scared about breaking it so I gave up.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    What kind of store would have a cheap one? Where in the store should I look? I hate going to a store and searching aimlessly for 20 minutes.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Sorry Troops, I was referring to the fan belt. The timing belt I will try to go to 100k as the book sez to change it at 105k. Cheers!
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I got mine from a doctor friend. I have no idea where to buy them.

    If you find a source you might try to get several sizes. I find they come in very handy for sucking out fluids as well as precisely putting oil in hard to reach places.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Wow, it is good to hear about the life of the brakes and rotors. I follow the LR discussion and it seems like they have to replace pads at a minimum every 20-25K miles. I was just going to post a message about brake pad life on the trooper, it as if you guys were reading my mind!
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I just rotated my tires at 36K miles (actually 37+ with the bigger tires correction factor). I glanced at the brake pads, and there is a LOT of life left on them. I wouldn't be surprised to get 100K on these, but then I am easy on brakes for some reason...
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Viktoria_r,

    I am trying to act unbiased when I say that your vechicle is unlike any that I have ever heard of, even a new model year GM vehicle (ie. Chevy Trailblazer). If your vehicle does not qualify for Lemon law status, it should.

    I have owned 16 vehicles over the past 14 years. They included Volkswagon, Chevrolet, Toyota, Honda, Dodge, Jeep, International Scout, Isuzu, and Mazda. The Chevrolet, Honda, Isuzu and Dodge were purchased new. All others were purchased used. I kept some vehicles until they had over 160k. Considering all of these vehicles, I have never encountered the type of problems that you have encountered with your Trooper. I apologize for your problems, however, I too believe that you have a possible "flood" vehicle or what I consider to be a "defective dealer".

    In regard to brakes, I currently own a 1999 Isuzu Trooper with the Automatic. My vehicle has over 49k. The rotors feel solid, no warping, and the pads have over 50% of their material remaining. I have towed around 7,000 lbs twice (not recommended) and tow around 1,500 lbs once/month. Otherwise, my wife drives the vehicle everyday to work/errands.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Victoria bought hers used IIRC so I highly doubt it could qualify under any lemon law.

    -mike
  • carrierecarriere Member Posts: 18
    In response on where to find syringes, try a veterinary supply store. Just this past weekend I changed both the rear and front axle oil on my '99 Troop and found a new use for my "Cajun injector" (typically used to inject chickens, turkeys, hogs, etc. with a variety of liquid herbs and spices)I used it to inject the gear oil that I was unable to squeeze out of the oil container. The rear axle oil appeared to be dirty and discolored. The front axle oil appeared to be fairly clean. I checked my transmission oil by unscrewing the upper plug on the transmission pan (with the engine running) and it is still red in color. I would like to change this out myself but I am not quite sure on how to tackle this job. Any specific/detailed instructions would certainly be appreciated. I also would like to change the oil in the transfer case. The shop manual says to replace this with 5w-30 or similar, yet when viewing what I believe to be the transfer case on my vehicle, "Fill with ATF II or III only" is etched on the transfer case casing. What I believe to be the transfer case is the vehicle component attached to the rear of the transmission with a drive shaft going to the front axle. Besides the Fill with ATF etching, it also has Borg Warner etched on it. Both the upper and lower plug of this etched-up component can be removed by using a ratchet without the socket. I do not mean to show my ignorance but what am I looking at and what type of oil should be used? I did not unscrew the lower/drain plug because I wasn't sure if I would need loctite or some silicon tape applied to the threads when replacing the plug. Also, someone earlier posted something about changing the TOD fluid. When and how should this be done. Though I do have the shop manuals for this vehicle, it tells me how to take the transmission and the transfer case apart but I could not specifically find the method of replacing the fluid for these items.

    In response to those of you who have put larger tires on your Troop....I feel your pain. I have Buckshot Mudders 245/75 on mine and the gas consumption is not pretty (18 hwy before 15 after). Later...'99 Troop Lux 37,800 miles.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The manual is for the regular transfer case (Part time) I believe there is a place you need to put that stuff though. The TOD T-case uses ATF fluid though, not std. gear oil.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Like Paisan noted above the TOD equipped vehicles have a BorgWarner transfer case unit that takes ATF instead of gear oil. Just pull the upper plug first so that you know you can refill through there. Then pull the lower plug and let it drain away. FWIW I didn't use loctite on my threads as I am more concerned about such plugs getting stuck in place than vibrating loose. I don't know what the manual calls for though.

    If you do the tranny fluid change make sure you have new plug gaskets as they are prone to leaking and have a specialized design that you have to get at a dealer.
  • carrierecarriere Member Posts: 18
    Concerning the transfer case, I can now quit scratching my head, I appreciate the response guys.
  • carrierecarriere Member Posts: 18
    Breakor, I'd like to change the tranny fluid myself but I am not sure of the appropriate way to do it. I've checked the fluid by removing the plug on the upper level of the transmission oil pan, and I used my kung foo grip when I re-installed the plug(snugged it up a fairly tight),so I am hoping that it doesn't leak. Is the plug that I used to check the fluid the same hole that I'll have to defy gravity in order to get 9 quarts of ATF fluid into? Nine quarts is a bit much for the Cajun Injector. I asked a parts store if they had some type of pump for this type of job and I had them scratching their head.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Amazing timing on this discussion! While you guys were posting, I was out checking the A/T level and draining old fluid and adding new fluid. Unfortunately, I think I drained the transfer case, not the automatic transmission! I did this same procedure 10,000 miles ago. Both times I've been scratching my head trying to figure out why only 2 quarts drained out of a 9.1 quart auto trans.

    I just took a closer look at the owners manual, and now I'm really confused. Maybe what I changed was the TOD system fluid, not the transfer case?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    My 98 Trooper has auto trans and TOD. Can someone please clarify whether it has a TOD reservoir with drain/fill plugs, a transfer case reservoir with drain/fill plugs, or both?

    Until today, I thought the answer was TOD only, no transfer case. Based on the past few posts and what I remember about the fluids I've changed on the truck in the last 3 years, I think the answer is the truck has BOTH.

    I'm scouring my owners manual and it's very confusing/vague. It never gives me clear info on if the truck has a transfer case, TOD, or both. It's also not clear on the fluid capacities for each item. It shows "Transfer" (in the Auto Trans table) 1.5 qts, and "Transfer with TOD" (what is this - the TOD system?) 2.0 qts. A photocopied page from the factory workshop manual confirms these capacities.

    Problem is, I've drained 1.75-2.0 quarts out of the TOD reservoir once and about 1.5 the other time (done this procedure twice in 3 years) and exactly 2 quarts out of the other thing that seems to be the transfer case (changed a year ago and again tonight).

    Now I see this in my owners manual: the transfer case uses regular engine oil (40 weight or 5W30, depending on where you live)! But the thing that I thought was the transfer case has "use only ATF II or III" stamped on it?! Is this actually the auto trans and not the transfer case?

    What's going on?

    Does this sound like the transfer case? I removed a heavy skid plate, held on by four 14mm bolts. As carriere explained earlier, the reservoir drain and fill plugs say 'Use only ATF II or III,' are removed with the end of a 3/8" ratchet (no socket attached), and the big silver funny-shaped unit has a big Borg-Warner sticker on it.

    The sticker should have been a clue that this was not the transmission; I know the A/T is a GM unit.

    Does this sound like the TOD system? The reservoir is further toward the front of the vehicle than the transfer case. It's more conventional-looking (rectangular and flat on the bottom side). My maintenance records indicate the drain & fill plugs were removed with a 19mm socket.

    Can someone describe where the A/T reservoir is? Obviously, I have no idea, since I thought I'd drained the A/T fluid twice when I really had drained the transfer case.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I am so confused about all of this I simply cannot believe it.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I drained 2 quarts out of SOMETHING tonight. Regardless of what this "something" is, I don't understand the following:

    * Checked level via fill plug with engine idling. No fluid drained out but there was a little when I stuck my finger in the hole. This says to me that level is a little low?

    * Drained just about exactly 2 quarts.

    * During fill, fluid started to slowly leak back out after 1-29/32 quarts (3 fl. oz. shy of 2 full quarts).

    This seems weird. Why would I not be able to put in 2 quarts after draining 2 quarts? If the engine was warmer when I was filling, would this somehow cause the level to read higher?

    I'm concerned that I did not put enough fluid back in, and I'm worried that the slightly strange behavior (engine revs sometimes but truck doesn't move right away, as if the trans isn't engaging right away) is caused by a too-low fluid level (assuming this is the A/T). Should I try to add more fluid? When-- with engine cold? Should I try to stick more fluid in there, even if it's trickling out? That could get messy.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe and this is totally on what I vaguely remember someone posting somewhere so don't quote me on it....

    TOD trucks have:

    1) AT trans
    2) TOD unit
    3) Transfer case

    When you drain the AT you will only get a few quarts out, even if you drop the pan you will not get anywhere near 9 quarts out of the Tranny. Most of it is stuck up in the torque converter and won't drain out. My salesman who also is a good friend and who used to be a mechanic said that basically if you drain out as much as possible by dropping the pan and do that ever 20K you'll be fine especially on the AT in the troopers.

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Wouldn't it be better (and easier) to go to a place (reputable) that has the A/T fluid suction machine and let that thing get 95% of it out. The only thing you have to watch is that the machine will register what it takes out and a typical mechanic will only put back the same amount that was removed. What is regrettable is that we do not have a dipstick to check the A/T level. Engineering oversight or do they feel the unit is just plain bullet-proof and don't worry about it. The Manual says A/T fluid at 100k but I had all driveline fliuds changed @ 45k. Maybe I did it too soon but it made me feel better as I attempt to get about 200k out of this thing. 2000S @ 60k, so far, so good. Cheers to all.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I dunno why there is no dipstick, the only logic I could see is that perhaps having it sealed allows the pressure inside to be greater? I did notice on the Duramax Diesel 5-speed allison tranny that the dipstick on that you actually had to screw into the dipstick hole so it could have something to do with the torque? My previous rodeo had the same tranny and I never checked the fluid in 120K miles of troublefree driving so I'm not real worried about my Troooper one.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Here is my understanding -

    If you have a manual transmission you have a traditional (i.e. takes oil) transfer case.

    If you have an AT you have a Borg Warner TOD unit that also functions as a transfer case and it takes ATF. I know the owners manual is very confusing as it makes it sound like ALL vehicles have a transfer case that takes oil. That is not the case. Again the TOD equipped vehicles all have AT's and they all have TOD units that take ATF and function as the transfer case.

    In my 1999 AT the Borg Warner drain and fill plugs are facing vertical. IIRC you have to remove a skid plate to easily get at them. They take a 1/2" wrench end, no socket.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    paisan, you said:

    "TOD trucks have:
    1) AT trans
    2) TOD unit
    3) Transfer case"

    Are you saying you think there's a separate drain plug for each of these 3 items? I need to go under the truck - AGAIN - and take another look. From what I remember, I see only the TOD drain/fill plugs and a second thing with a drain and a fill plug.

    Is it possible that the A/T and transfer case share the same reservoir or something? I.e., there's only 1 set of drain/fill plugs for these items, not 2 separate sets?

    I really need to spring for the workshop manual.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe that the TOD and AT do not share the same resivoir. I could have sworn someone with a TOD said that there was a very small resivoir for the traditional t-case portion, but I could be wrong on that.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    My understanding is as follows -

    The AT has 2 downwards facing plugs that take something like a 22mm socket. The higher/outer plug is the fill plug and the lower the drain.

    To do a quasi-flush you could drain through the lower drain plug. All auto parts stores carry fluid transfer pumps that you can use to pump new fluid back in through the upper plug. They should cost under $10 and screw right in to the top of a gallon jug of ATF, or gear oil for that matter. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight for under $5. Using this method you will probably get out 1/3rd to 1/2 of the old ATF.

    To get out all the old fluid you can go to a Iffy Lube and have them use their machines. The problem being that they seem to have trouble properly refilling the Trooper trannys. They just don't set the level right.

    You can also use the tranny itself to pump out ALL the old fluid by dissconnecting the return line so the old fluid can come out. Of course this is not the simplest procedure as you have to keep from running the system dry during the drain/refill procedure.

    As to the plugs, if you look carefully at the drain gasket they have a weird rubber insert. I have read that these can easily tear and cause leaks. I noted that when I removed mine they were rather buggered up and I was glad I had new ones on hand for the reinstall.

    I hope this helps but remember it is only my attempt at explaining my limited understanding and I am by no means a real mechanic.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    There is a shift on the fly reservoir that all Troopers (both manual and auto trannys) have. It is located on the driver's side of the front axle and again IIRC it takes something like a pint of gear oil. There is no lower drain plug just an upper one that you siphon the old fluid out of.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    In order to fill the pan after draining the ATF (local mechanic refused to do it for me as the plug, as you noted is straight up and he could not figure out a way to fill it) I molded plastic tubing into a hook which now hooks into the filler plug very nicely. Simply pump the fluid in until it runs out. Drive it 5-10 miles and while running pull the filler plug, add more fluid until it runs out and you are finished. I did learn the hard way though, get new gaskets for the plugs. Mine leaked and I had to re due the job, guess I got a better drain though of more fluid.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think he is hitting on the missing reservoir that I was fuzzy on. That is what I remember now.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    A Trooper has either a standard transfer case or a TOD transfer case, never both. The TOD unit IS the transfer case, just a rather unique one.

    Bluedevils, I must admit to not reading your entire post, but if not covered I want to make sure you understand that you will NOT get 9 quarts out of the AT on a simple drain/fill. Much of the fluid is held in the torque converter and will not drain out. I have heard you will only get 3 or so quarts out.

    So I can't tell you which unit you drained, but you can't assume it isn't the tranny just because you only got 2 or 3 quarts out.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    My guess is that you drained a somewhat warm, non-running tranny. Had you drained a cold one more like 3 or even 4 qts would have drained out.

    While you were refilling fluid continued draining down from the torque converter (or if you had the engine running you didn't go through all the gears). This made it seem like you were full again when you were not. Like Armtdm noted above, drive it around awhile before doing the final level fill/check on a running engine. Good luck and be safe (vehicle in park, secured from rolling, the ATF warm not scalding hot, eye protection, etc.).
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The 2 quarts of cherry fluid I drained last night does not appear to be from the auto trans. The drain and fill plugs have no gaskets, and I loosened them with a 3/8" drive ratchet (no socket attached). This conflicts with breakor in #1579: "The AT has 2 downwards facing plugs that take something like a 22mm socket. The higher/outer plug is the fill plug and the lower the drain."
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    My owners manual has a SHIFT ON THE FLY (SOTF) SYSTEM section that says "Lubricant capacity" is 0.13 quarts. This is about 3.5 fluid ounces, which is way less than a pint (16 fl oz). The manual does not clearly state which vehicles (manual, auto, TOD, shift-on-the-fly) have this thing. Perhaps it means they ALL have it, since it's not specific? I doubt that.

    There is nothing in my manual that says capacity is about a pint. There are a few things that say 1.5 qts or 2.0 qts, or 0.13 qts. breakor, perhaps you were talking about this SOTF system when you said the following:

    "There is a shift on the fly reservoir that all Troopers (both manual and auto trannys) have. It is located on the driver's side of the front axle and again IIRC it takes something like a pint of gear oil. There is no lower drain plug just an upper one that you siphon the old fluid out of."

    I've not noticed this on my Trooper. That doesn't mean it's not there, but I think this is only for the SOTF Troopers, not the TOD ones.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They all have it but I can't tell for sure. I think it's time to break down and buy the manuals...

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The 98 Troops were slightly different re: the trans/4WD system combinations.

    TOD was optional (part of the Performance Package), not standard, on auto trans Troopers. In '99 this changed, and TOD was standard equipment on all auto trans Troopers.

    So in '98, you could have a:

    1. manual trans Trooper with Shift-on-the-fly 4WD (SOTF).
    2. auto trans Trooper with SOTF - this was the only year you could get this, as far as I know.
    3. auto trans Trooper with TOD (Performance Package or Luxury Package models).

    Our 98 Trooper is a #3.

    What I'm wondering is if maybe Isuzu did things differently in the '98 model year re: TOD/AT/Transfer case.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    carriere has said he/she (sorry, I'm not sure) has the workshop manuals. Perhaps this could help us get to the bottom of things?
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Member Posts: 324
    that the TOD and part-time systems use the same SOTF system to engage/disengage the front axle. Now when TOD is engaged, the front axle is connected to the TOD-case through the SOTF system. When TOD is disengaged, the SOTF system disengages the front axle. From when I last drove a TOD Trooper, that was my impression of it's engagement/disengagement.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    My 98 Troop has the following 3 reservoirs, each with a drain and fill plug:

    1. TOD. Takes 1.5-2 qts. Flat rectangular bottom, 19mm drain/fill bolts, no gaskets. Takes ATF II or III (stamped on the reservoir, I think). I've changed this 3 times since buying the truck. I don't remember if it's protected by a skid plate; need to check my maintenance log at home. Located somewhere between the front wheels.

    2. Transfer case. Takes 1.5-2 qts. Bigger. Silver. Funny shaped. Drain/fill bolts remove with a 3/8" (is it 1/2") drive ratchet (no socket). No gaskets. Has a big "Borg Warner" sticker on it. Takes ATF II or III (stamped on the reservoir). Protected by a large, heavy skid plate which is held on by four 14mm bolts. Sits further toward the back of vehicle than the TOD. Near the outside of vehicle on passenger side. I've drained this twice, including once last night.

    3. Auto trans. I have not yet identified where the reservoir is under the truck so I'm going on what others have said recently. Drain/fill plug are 22mm. Has gaskets; wise to buy extras when draining because they damage easily. Location: ?.

    4. I don't know squat about this hidden SOTF reservoir. Not sure on which vehicles it exists. May contain 0.13 qts, may contain more. Located around the front axle?

    sdc2 said: "A Trooper has either a standard transfer case or a TOD transfer case, never both. The TOD unit IS the transfer case, just a rather unique one."

    I will say that I used to agree with breakor and sdc2. I thought the TOD and transfer case were a single unit on the TOD Troopers. But the things people have posted here and what I've seen under the truck while working on it lead me to believe otherwise.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There are 3 items on a TOD trooper:

    SOTF
    TOD-Transfer Case
    AT

    The TOD unit is under a skid plate on passenger side.
    The SOTF I am not sure of.
    AT is dead center tucked up high above the frame rails.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I will take your word for it that I am wrong on 2 accounts you noted. First the TOD takes a 3/8" rather than a 1/2" socket fitting and the SOTF capacity is .13 qts not .5 qts. It could also be that the AT bolts are 19 not 22mm. I was going from memory as I am not presently near the vehicle or manual. I am sorry if these errors confused you or anyone else.

    To recap I do not have a 98 but on a 99 AT there is a TOD unit, an AT and a SOTF and NO ADDITIONAL transfer case. My AT drain plugs have washers that have rubber gasket inserts.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Here is how I found my SOTF. I got out my owners manual and found a picture of it there. I then eventually found a similar looking reservoir about 6" to the inside of the inner end of the driver's side cv (no doubt Bluedevils will measure it and tell everyone how wrong I am). Again, I am just trying to quickly help people find this stuff. I am not in a position to crawl under the vehicle and get precise measurements. I am sorry if this causes more confusion than clarification.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think you helped to clarify it, at least for me. I knew there were 3 items just wasn't sure of the SOTF v. T-case.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I appreciated everyone's posts, and I was not trying to say anybody was wrong. I still don't feel like I know for sure what is going on.

    Perhaps when I thought I was changing the TOD (19mm bolts) and was draining 1.5-2 quarts, that is actually the auto trans.

    As for the thing whose plugs are removed with a 3/8 or 1/2" drive ratchet (no socket), that must be the TOD/transfer case unit-- whatever you want to call it.

    I am going under my truck this weekend to see what I can see!

    It seems that nobody is agreeing with my prior theory - that there are 4 drain/fill plugs-- 1 set each for SOTF (the small-capacity thing near driver's-side CV), auto trans (22mm bolt), transfer case (3/8" drive ratchet), and TOD (19mm bolt). I was probably wrong about it.

    The likely explanation is this: I thought the A/T was the TOD thing. Because of that, I thought the A/T reservoir was down there somewhere but I just hadn't seen it or changed the fluid yet. I think that was all wrong, but I still don't feel sure about anything.
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    My 99 recently hit 40 K and I decided NOT to attempt the AT fluid change myself after reading about others expensive mishaps with wrong plugs, etc. I thought I'd be smart and let the *iffy Lube guys do it for $30. Well, after I checked my manual and realized they only replaced 5 qts. and didn't replace the filter, I started to worry. Sure enough, several days later I noticed a leak on my garage floor. Yep, it was the AT fluid. I decided to stop screwing around trying to save a buck on one of the most critical aspects of my vehicle. When I got the vehicle serviced by Isuzu the other day(complete AT and filter service-$169), they told me someone damaged the 2 plugs which causded the leak. Bottom line,IMHO, AT fluid changes just aren't worth the risk of doing half a#$$ just to save some mula in the short run.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I trust myself to do safer/more careful work on my Trooper more than most shops. I may be clueless under the hood or underneath the truck. Wait, I definitely am clueless!

    Still, I am more careful and although I have made mistakes (see posts about 'ATF in rear differential' fiasco a few months back), I still feel better working on my vehicle than taking it somewhere who a) knows nothing about such an uncommon vehicle, probably because b) they have never worked on a similar vehicle; and c) they don't give 2 sh*&s about my truck.

    Reasons why I work on my own vehicle:
    1) I am interested in learning more about it, to increase my knowledge and decrease my chance of being ripped off when it needs work I can't/won't do myself.
    2) I trust myself to do a better job than most shops.
    3) It saves money vs. paying someone else to do it.

    $169 for a full transmission service is just ridiculous, IMHO. Many shops will do the flush with a fancy exchange machine for $50-70. I am in the market for A/T service, but I would never pay $169. duktrooper, what did they do - the fancy-machine fluid exchange thing? Change the filter (is it just a screen that doesn't need replacement?)? "Drop the pan?" (I don't even know what this means, or why it's done). What else?

    I'd like to think the dealer knows more about the vehicle than the average independent shop, but my confidence in dealer service is still fairly low.
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