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Comments
-mike
http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_0346/P_1/article.html
PS ... In the article you will come across the term "pork pies". It is Australian slang for "lies".
The rate of taxation varies according the kilometres travelled. However if you travel 14,999km or less in a year, the rate is 27%. I'm doing 15-16,000km per year, which attracts a 20% rate. So a 3% reduction in speedo accuracy by going to larger diameter tyres, could cost me a lot!
Did you ever think that taxation bureaucracy can change your mind about 4x4 tyre sizes?
If anything, I'd expect the taxation to work the opposite-- the more you drive, the more tax you pay. But that would be too logical.
Hey, what time is it over there?
-mike
-mike
Our trails right now are generally to slippery and muddy to do any reasonable 4wd'ing. So enjoy the summer months!
-mike
Our Trooper is nearing 65,000 miles and I think it's time for a few maintenance items-- finally get a good transmission service (replace fluid, new filter, drop pan, etc.), brake inspection, another coolant service, etc.
-mike
Cheers to all!
I plan on doing it at 50K on the Trooper though.
-mike
Another question, how many miles before you replaced your front pads?
Also, how many miles before you replaced your rear pads?
The last time I checked my pads, both front and rear had about equal wear (same thickness left).
Squeeking every time you use the brakes, or getting progressively louder as the days go bye, could be the wear indicators on pads.
Either way, I recommend a local mechanic, not midas. Midas it will cost $500. You will need everything. And think their warranty is good, they cover pads, when you go back under warranty forget it, another $300. A local shop won't scrap your rotors just because you need a brake job. I think midas sets their minimum rotor width wider than necessary, so anyone who gets new pads...needs rotors. I had a warped rotor problem with my old altima, entire brake job and re-surfacing rotors...$180. I guess you know how I feel about midas.
A simple inspection of your pads will tell you if your pads are worn out. You can compare them to new pads at the auto parts store and figure out the % of wear left.
Brake wear is highly variable between drivers. I'm easy on brakes so mine last a long time (100 K on my pickup). Others have to replace every 30 K. If you live and drive on lots of steep hills and do a lot of hard braking - your brakes could very well be worn out.
People who have posted on this board seem to like the Isuzu OEM pads versus the aftermarket ones.
I'm amazed at what some shops charge as it is a fairly simple process to replace pads / shoes, turn rotors, and repack wheel bearings. I've done it myself on several vehicles - took the rotors to a machine shop to be measured and turned on a brake lathe. The parts and machine work are all relatively inexpensive to a shop that does any volume.
As far as warped rotors go, I can't say I've ever had a problem with squeal, but did notice a pulsing in the pedal in a few vehicles when I applied the brakes. On inspection it turned out to be warped rotors.
Good luck!
My other question is how imperative is it to do the front bearing repack?
My owner's manual says repack when replacing pads. I called a local Honda dealer (mine is actually a Passport) and the service guy on the other line was surprised and said that he never heard of bearing repack on a Passport.
Has anybody gone over 100K miles without repacking your front bearings?
Any special skills to do the bearing repack?
Thanks a lot in advance and more power to you guys!!!
My question is how do I check for source of oil loss? Spark plug jacket? Exhaust manifold?
How much are the parts and how hard is it replace the valve cover gaskets?
Thanks.
Since it was cold enough for steel tools to cause frostbite in a hurry and I did not have a garage, the next day I took it to a shop where the bearings were replaced. The passenger side bearing came out in lots of small pieces of discolored metal. The drivers side was discolored too, but intact. All that needed replaced were the bearings, the races were in good shape.
On my 1995 Trooper I waited 89K miles before the first bearing repack, and I do 30K intervals since.
If it was a real bad amount of burning oil it would leave a cloud of smoke.
If it was valve guide seals it would leave a cloud at certain times, watch an old dodge minivan drive around, they are known for valve guide seals lasting only 70K miles or less, when they take off from a light they blow a lot of smoke.
If it was leaking out of a gasket on top of the engine, and not reaching the ground to make a slick, then it would probably be dripping on the exhaust manifold and you would have smoke coming from under the hood and the stench to go with it.
My 1984 used 1qt or so per 1000 miles all the way from 30K miles to 201K miles with no problems. My 1995.5 only seems to consume oil when I am towing.
1999 Isuzu Trooper Auto/TOD 52k. Havoline 10W30
Folks, My truck was previously burning around one quart every 2,000~2,500 miles. I recently added an engine oil cooler and began using a Puralator pure one filter. My oil consumption has gone down to one quart every 5,000 miles.
I recently studied oil properties and characteristics. It is my personal opinion that the source of most engine oil loss is due to engine oil vaporization above the heads upon which the PCV valve picks it up and burns it. If you keep your oil clean and cool it will not vaporize, thereby reducing the oil loss. Synthetics have a higher vaporization temperature thereby allowing them to have a lower loss as compared to petroleum oils in the same engine.
Therefore, if you have a cheap oil, or even a reputable oil, but with a low vaporization temperature, and you push your engine hard, especially in a hot environment, high oil loss will result.
Chad
-mike
-mike
-mike
I would recommend that you check them before you change them.
-mike
-mike
-mike
If you are getting new rotors, you should investigate getting slotted rotors. I have a friend who put these in his Landcruiser, and the difference in stopping power and resistance to fade is amazing. He did all 4 though, and the cost was the same as the OE rotors.
Don't know what there is available in the US, but have a look at www.dba.com.au to see what I'm talking about.
Interesting that the wear indicators didn't sound. Are these just on the front brakes?
-mike
Bridgestone Dueler H/L $122
Michelen LTX $155
both were 265-70-16 and the price did not include sales tax or disposal fee of old tires.
You could definitely get them to go lower.
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
With the $105 a tire, I got the mounting fee included, because I bought the tire from them. If I had gotten from Tirerack, I would have also had to pay $7 on top of valve stem and balance.
I went to a Firestone shop. They were willing to match prices, without much haggling. There is obviously a decent amount in profit, because they dropped the price $25 without much effort.