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Ask your Isuzu maintenance shop what maintenance is most needed and most cost effective. My local shop is http://www.creechimports.com/ maybe they can help decide what your maintenance priorities are. The owner is Stan, I have been using their shop since 1995.
http://www.isuzusuv.com
When I did comparison shopping when my Trooper was due for 30K serve, his shop had better price than Isuzu dealers (there are two dealers within 10 miles from my home). However, his rate is not the lowest compared to other independent shops. Keith (the owner) follows Isuzu maintenance schedule and does everything to the spec, so I am happy with that. One dealer does more than what Isuzu manual recommends and charges more.
Keith cannot do warranty repair, so if he finds something that should be repaired under warranty, he tells me to go to a dealer. One time he found front diff pinion seal and rear axle seal leaks, and a dealer finally agreed to fix it after arguing it's a normal seepage. If I'd taken it to a dealer, I don't think those leaks ever got noticed and got fixed. Another good thing for me is he's open on Saturdays.
...Eiji...
Boxtrooper, thanks for the suggestion. Man you would be blown away at what San Diego is today, compared to the 80's. I've been here since 96', the growth is stunning (housing costs)...Thanks again.
...Eiji...
Joel
It's almost out of warranty, and here are things repaired by Isuzu under warranty:
1. Transmission drain plus leak @29K
2. Front differential pinion seal leak @48K
3. Left rear axle seal leak @48K
4. AC switch light bad @48K
Original tires were replaced at around 35K.
Joel
However, things seem dramatically better in the last 2-3 tanks of gas. Could it be our truck was not running nearly as well on the reformulated winter fuel here in Michigan, and the last couple tanks of gas have been the regular, non-winter blend? The improvement is so noticeable it's hard to believe. There have been no other recent changes to the truck (e.g. oil change), so I can't attribute the improvement to anything else. The truck even returned 18.2 MPG on a 200-mile round trip yesterday, with 95% highway miles @ 75mph. Any thoughts?
-mike
Is 50k miles or so a reasonable fuel filter change interval, or do you folks recommend more frequent? I don't recall what the owners manual says.
Oh yeah and it doesn't help in HP/Power either IMHO.
-mike
If you really want a high flow set up, you can make one for much less than the Calmini** kit. K&G has universal filters for use in this application. I remember reading a do-it-yourself write-up on this topic. It included a filter, a plastic pipe and a clamp. I think the article was posted at planetisuzu, but I'm not sure.
Lee
**The salesman that handles Isuzu for calmini is arrogant and pompous.IMO I hate spending money with them.
The K&N filter is extremely durable. I like being able to clean and reuse it. I have friends that swear by K&N products for performance capabilities, but I think the biggest selling points are quality and convenience.
None of the auto parts stores in my area stock a K&N filter for the Trooper. They required full payment prior to ordering one, so I purchased on-line. The filter comes "charged" so you can postpone the cleaner/charger kit (a separate item) until later. Most stores keep this item in stock.
-mike
One of the Isuzu dealer in my area discontinued Isuzu recently. The other dealer still sell and service Isuzu vehicles, but they let all Isuzu techs go as they are mainly selling Hyundai now. Now my warranty is almost over, I probably won't need dealer service any more.
Are you in SLC? I remember seeing Isuzu dealer by Hwy 15 in Draper or Lehi?
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I previously installed and removed the calmini K&N exposed filter kit. It has a port on the heavy steel tube for the small hose that was not at the correct angle so I would have had to buy a longer small hose. I did not like the mounting bracket sturdiness compared to the amazing weight of the big steel tube. I ran it in the driveway and decided to remove it right then because the exposed cone shaped filter is right in line with the engine cooling fan such that any water or debris that hits the fan could hit the K&N filter element directly at high velocity. The K&N filter element looks like an oily tee shirt stretched over a metal screen, not enough to prevent a hole from a small stone coming off the fan blade in my opinion.
On a related note, my Check Engine light came on during my trip there? At least is was before rather than after.
The problem happens mostly when it is warmed up? So it is probably something inside the ball bearings inside the worm gear, and that I should have the dealer replace it if anything. UGH...I have an appointment Saturday to demonstrate this problem to my dealership and then possibly setup an appointment to have it resolved. Otherwise I will just have to outright pay/tell someone to replace the gear entirely.
The mechanic said he didn't think it was a safety issue? However I have felt a shimmy at 45-55 MPH since it started and had my tires balanced twice. I can feel this slack offroading, where the wheels and steering moves, but the steering wheel doesn't, as if the gear is banging against either side of the slop?
My Check Engine code was a "44"? Another thing I will have to have the dealer look at.
Thanks in advance
You will still get some gas on you...wear safety glasses.
Unclip the coil pack wire connector, remove the coil pack. The plug "wire" down to the plug is integral with the coil pack, and will come out when you pull off the coil pack. Swap the plug, doing all the usual things you do in a plug change (anti-seize on the threads, start the new plug with fingers to avoid cross-threading, etc.) Reinstall the coil pack and you are done.
This year I have installed a Calmini rear bumper, DOR rock sliders, and ARB bullbar. I have a couple of crappy digital pics I could email you if you want.
It's nice to have 2wd available again
-mike
On my previous Blazer, you just inserted a socket wrench into a square hole in the tensioner arm to pivot it, loosening the belt. I can find no such hole on the Trooper, and the shop and owners manuals were not enlightening. I know there must be an easy way...
Joel
In that you have already partially stripped the heads, I strongly recommend that you clean out/deepen the screwhead slots BEFORE using the impact screwdriver. The more bite you can give the screwdriver the better off you will be. If you have a Dremel tool and a very small slot cutting bit you might try using that to carefully chase the slots in the top of the screws.
To make your job much easier next time, especially now that you have already compromised the screwheads, get yourself some new machine screws. IIRC they are 4X8mms. Home Depot and Lowes both sell them in stainless steel. These are much less likely to strip than the factory supplied brass screws.
check the above link. You just need a socket wrench and a pipe on the end of it to give you a bit more torque.
-Ryan
As to a grease seal remover, yes they make them. However, no matter how you remove the seals you always ruin them. Plus with all the mileage on them they need to be replaced in any event. The point being that a seal remover only makes the job a little easier, it doesn't save the seals. No doubt many people just use a long-handled screwdriver and pry out the old seals. Just be careful not to scar the rotor.
FWIW, I have not used Locktite on the 3 hub nut screws. I just very securely re-tightened them. Then again I am no mechanic so maybe this was a mistake. My thought was that these screws are hard enough to remove as is let alone with Locktite. However, with Locktite the chances of a worst case scenario (e.g. a wheel coming loose at speed) are no doubt less. Thus, you should use your own judgement and do your own research before deciding to use or not use Locktite.
Again, just my $.02. YMMV, use at your own discretion, risk, etc.
Joel
To repeat, I am going from memory here. My recollection is that they are 4mm in diameter and 8mm in length. No doubt machine screws can also have different thread spacing and pitch specifications. Thus, 4X8mm is not a definitive specification. However it was my experience that Home Depot carries only 1 machine screw in that size. It worked just fine and the ones at Lowes looked to be exactly the same. No, all machine screws are not metric. Most in the US are SAE.
Thus, when you go to Lowes or HD you have to be sure and check for the metric parts bins. You might also might try a NAPA or Pep Boys as some of them have good selections of metric items although usually not quite that small.
Once you get the impact screwdriver make sure you have it set to remove not tighten. Then practice on a few screwheads first to get the hang of it. No big deal but in that the heads are already somewhat compromised you want to get it right the first hit.