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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    wildbuc's diff has Mobil1 which already has limited slip additive included and it has the GM limited slip additive also. So a double dose of limited slip additive. If it were my diff I would worry about two things:
    1.) two different additives getting along together
    2.) having removed another 1/4 to 1/3 of the slipery gear oil to make room for the extra bottle of friction additive.
    ..
    I just wanted to make a point that the cost of the two quarts of oil is so low and easy to install that any slight chance of not having the right oil in there is worth changing it.
    ..
    I do not think that synthetic 75W90 is going to hurt the rear differential, but I do think that the thicker 80W140 Redline I used will protect my rear diff better than 75W90 especially for towing. I also want to make the limited slip clutch plates last as long as the vehicle so if the thicker oil is specified then I will use it.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    Boxtrooper, my thinking was that Mobil 1 did not have LSD additive in it. This may be true but sure far I haven't found any clear mention of it. This might be something I have overlooked, but I should know soon when Mobil 1 contacts me.

    Regarding percentage of LSD additive to amount of gear oil used, the Trooper requires 3.2 quarts, so I don't see where replacing 4 oz. of oil with additive means that 1/4th to 1/3rd of the oil is being replaced, even accounting for the the amount of additive already in Mobil 1.

    As far as cost goes, the 4 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90 at Autozone went for about $7. each. The GM additive costs $9.95 for 4 oz. So, I have about $40. invested.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I was not aware of this and had assumed the opposite when I decided a while back to use Mobil 1 75W90 gear lube in our 98 Trooper. Where does this information come from? I don't recall seeing any mention on the bottle that a limited slip additive was part of the formula or that additional limited slip additive was not necessary due to the formulation of the Mobil 1.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    ok, time for me to fess up to yet another stupid thing. Added 1/4 qt oil on Weds eve, discovered a puddle of oil on garage floor Friday eve. Called wife who was driving truck home. She pulled over and checked dipstick. The filler cap was in the engine bay, but was not where it should be. I.e., I had forgotten to screw it back on. Truck was about a quart low. Wife added a quart and proceeded home.

    I'm not that worried about the truck having been driven 50-100 miles while a quart low; that does not seem like a major problem. But does driving while the oil filler cap is off do anything bad?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    By nature most synthetics typically don't require the friction modifier additive.

    Here is a quote from the Mobil 1 site - Recommended for many limited slip applications. For certain high level LS applications, additional limited slip additive may be required if axle chatter is observed. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_75W-- 140_SyntheticGearLubricant.asp

    Here is a quote from the Amsoil site - AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lubes do not require the use of this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and if chatter is noticed, the addition of AMSOIL Slip-Lock will eliminate it. http://www.amsoil.com/products/ada.htm
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I suppose if you splattered enough you could set yourself up for a fire. Otherwise I suspect all you made was a mess. I suggest you clean off what you can to prevent dirt from sticking everywhere as well as minimizing the chance of an oil fire. I would use some liquid cleaner and a rag rather than a carwash hose. I am just leary about putting water under the hood what with all the electronics. Just my hopefully helpful $.02.
  • cptsessocptsesso Member Posts: 116
    I had this done to me before by none other than the dealer. It just makes an oily mess. They added the lost oil, I believe a half quart, and attempted to clean it up. They did not do a good job so I sprayed it with gunk engine cleaner and hosed it off.

    I always clean my engines. Never had one single electrical problem. Just don't blast the areas where the electronics are ie:fuse box, etc. Use low pressure to clean around these areas.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I'm going to clean up as much of the engine compartment as I can with Simple Green. Thanks for the advice.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    You will draw (dirty) unfiltered air into the engine driving without the oil cap on. The PCV system will not function at all with the oil cap off. Not that big a deal since you caught it right away, but I wouldn't stretch this oil change interval too far. These engines will throw a ton of oil out through the fill hole. The cam gears spin just below the fill hole & sling oil upwards. The left side of your engine bay must have been a mess!! Glad to hear you got it early!
    G/luck
    Joel
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I left the oil fill cap off once back in the 1980's on my 1984 Trooper 1.9L engine. I was on a cross country trip and had added some oil since it burned 1qt/1000 miles or so and the trip was 1400 miles. The thing that made me notice the oil cap was off was a dark line moving slowly up my fender toward the drivers side rear view mirror. Oil was hitting the hood and blowing out the edge of the hood onto the fender and getting close enough that I could see the oil while driving. When I opened up the hood I found the oil cap stuck to the hood because I had set it down on the air cleaner cover on top of the carburator and the hood pressed onto it when closed. I put in another quart of oil and finished my trip by stopping at one of those coin operated car washes to clean up the mess.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    it wasn't as dirty as I feared, especially after hearing my wife's description over the phone. I was surprised and relieved to learn that it had lost only a quart. Very lucky.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    I just got a response from Mobil 1 regarding using GM LSD additive with Mobil 1 75W-90 oil in my Trooper.

    A technician from Mobil 1 said that would be fine.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    I was reading on another Isuzu forum that some owners are having blown engines due to oil failure around 60K miles. Anybody here have a Trooper 98-2000 that has gone farther without engine problems?
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    I could see that happening if they don't realize that these engines burn oil and they're in the habit of checking the oil only on occasion. On my 99' I have 92K miles, since 12/24 I've been driving back and forth from San Diego to L.A. daily (300 miles). I'm getting concerned because I'm now burning 1qt. every 1000 miles. My gas mileage is still at 17 mpg/hwy though. One thing I noticed while filling up again, was the tail pipe has a Black soot around it, which is new. I looked at other cars, which also have the soot, maybe it's the Winter blend of gas?
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    So far so good, almost at 110,000 miles. I have done MB1 oil changes every 10K. I am going to change that to every 7500 though to coincide with my 7500 tire rotations. Has been a gem so far.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    98,517 miles. Changed the oil 5 minutes ago. Have had no engine 'problems' except for the high oil consumption rate, which now stands at a quart every 900 miles or so. It's more of an annoyance than a problem, in my book.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I would look into having the EGR system cleaned. Clogging in the EGR tube and valve reportedly can dramatically and abruptly increase oil consumption, which can catch you off guard.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have a lot of soot on my exhaust. I have a '99 also. I only have 35K on it though and have a very short commute. I burn very little oil.

    I notice a fair amount of water coming out of exhaust on startup, so I always have to allow for some idle time to protect the exhaust with my commute being so short.

    I am getting really poor mileage 10-11 MPG around town, but I attribute that to a very short commute, roof rack, larger tires, and additional weight from Bullbar. If I remove the roof rack I have gotten just over 17 on the highway, so I assume it is just the way it is.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    I have 43K mileage on my Trooper with no problems. I'm using Mobil 1 10W-30 oil and change around 7K miles. I use about a quart of oil every 5K miles. I get 19-20 mpg on the road but I drive very conservatively and run higher pressures in tires.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    Has anybody done this and can give a good explanation how it is done? I'm sure many Trooper owners would like to know.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    As soon as I can, I'm going to have a shop do the EGR cleaning, and at the same time I am going to change the oil/filter, install new PCV valve, and add soem Neutra (cleaner) to the fuel and engine oil. 2 questions: what exactly should I ask the shop to clean (EGR tube, EGR valve, other stuff, etc. etc.) and what is a fair price to pay?
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    "EGR - what to clean" :EGR tube, EGR valve, EGR ports in intake manifold. "and how much $": I think from 1 to 2 hours at your shop rate plus some shop supply(cleaner,rags...). Here we go some detail:
    Posted by Ryan on September 27, 03 at 09:04:06:
    Well, its a done deal with one scary moment.
    First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
    I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.
    So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.

    Next I removed the EGR, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the EGR itself. I sprayed down the inside of the EGR and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the EGR tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the EGR sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

    Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!

    read the rest in SUV COM / ISUZU TECH...
    buttom line don't spray to much cleaner but more use right size brashes and rags instead.
    My own opinion I would not do it this stuff unless
    I have bad code pointed to EGR, or my mpg really suck, or my oil consumpsion very high(1q pre 500mi).
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    I like that post!
    -Ryan
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    When are you going to step up to a 4WD??
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    It has 72K miles and the hood started making noise on the highway rides. I took a close look and the upper end of the hood (the one close to the Windshield) is vibrating and making noise. I have adjusted the two hexagon shaped rubber screews on the grill near the radiator, but that does not help much. Making the hood close too tight will spoil the look as the hood will not flush with the fenders. I am suspecting something is wrong with the Hood Protector, the plastic might have gotten hard due to age and it is not absorbing the vibration well and making the entire hood vibrate. Do I need to check the welded points under the hood, the ones which hold the hood metal sheet to the grid panels. Any comments, suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks a lot
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    112,000 on my '99 and running strong. Here is the complete list of maintenance, repairs and upgrades if anyone is interested.

    2K driver window track replacement(warranty item)
    6K short block replacement(warranty item)
          This was to fix my oil consumption, but it did not work.
    15K muffler replacement due to rattle(warranty item)
    22K heater fan motor due to rattle(warranty item)
    40K battery replacement
    48K new tires Bridgestone Dueller AT 255-70's
    60K fan belt, pcv valve & fuel filter
    78K brake pads
    82K OME springs, Rancho shocks
    83K front/rear diff. & transfer case fluid change
    85K new tires Cooper SST 285-75's
    86K spark plugs & new EGR valve
    88K battery replacement Optima red label
    109K front/rear diff. & transfer case fluid change,fan belt,pcv valve & fuel filter, manual trans. fluid change
    110K coolant fluid change, timing belt, water pump, repack front wheel bearings

    Other than the 1st year repairs covered under warranty, all additional cost associated with my Trooper have been either upgrades (never required but always fun!!) or routine maintenance. Every one of my upgrades and most of the maintenance items were the result of great advice and input from this discussion group.

    I would love to compare my list with others on this board to identify common patterns or occurrences with our Troopers.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Thanks for the post, I sleep better knowing that Timing Belts are capable of 110K.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    There is a nice posting on Timing belt in this group discussion "Service Bulletin re: 1998 timing belts by sdc2". I called Isuzu to re-confirm and they refuse. Isuzu says please follow what is given in the Owners manual. I got the Timing Belt Changed and the Old belt was in very good condition, the only difference I have observed between the old and new is the old one is little glossy on the flat side, other than this it was almost new. I had 72K miles on it, just regular driving, no trailer hauling etc. I live here in Dallas, Tx and Isuzu says the hot Texas weather puts the maintanence category in to the 'Severe Driving Conditions. I like to know how long does the Water Pump lasts or expected to last and when is the time to change the timing belt again. The owners manual reccommends the timing belt change at 75K and then at 130K.

    Appreciate your postings, this discussion group has been a great help.
  • cwleighcwleigh Member Posts: 8
    Anyone had it fail? Know all conventional wisdom says replace between 120-140K miles but has anyone had a water pump, tensioner or idler pulley fail? Concerning the idler pulley I am talking about the one on the timing belt across from the tensioner not the external idler or tensioner on the accessory drive belt. Thanks...
    Chris
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    sorry if this has been asked before. How likely is it that the EGR is bad on an oil-consuming 3.5L Trooper? My '98 Troop has 100k miles and I'm going to take it to a shop soon for an EGR cleaning (valve, tubing, etc.) since I'm not comfortable trying this myself. What I want to avoid is the shop telling me the EGR needs to be replaced if it really doesn't. I'm thinking it may be a cheap part anyway, so wouldn't be a big deal if the shop replaced one that didn't need replacing?

    I'm doing the EGR cleaning as part of a real attempt to reduce oil consumption. The other stuff (add cleaner to fuel, add cleaner to oil, do oil change, and replace PCV valve) I will do myself.
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    If I remember correctly, I paid around $180.00 for the part. I did the install myself and after a day or so the CEL returned. As it turned out, I forgot to clean the tube leading into the valve before replacement.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I remember some "expert" posting that the EGRs of the last 10 years or so are very durable and almost never need replacing. Prior to that they were of questionable reliability. Whether this is a good recollection of the postings of a true expert I don't know.

    I also don't remember anybody needing a new valve. Well at least those who asked for or did a cleaning themsleves have reported cleaning the valve. On the other hand, a few people that went into a shop and said "fix it" have been sold a new EGR. Whether they truly needed one is of course the question.

    Make sure the shop pays particular attention to the tubing. Some DIYers have reported using an entire can of carb cleaner to do the job.

    It sounds like you have a good overall oil reduction plan, well as good as you can do short of replacing the rings. Good luck.
  • ducktrooperducktrooper Member Posts: 1
    I was recently told by my dealer I would have to replace EGR and do a complete EGR cleaning service for a whopping $540. This was for my '99 Trooper which just hit 100k and the CEL light came on. I told the stealer no thanks and paid my mechanic $75 to do a thorough cleaning of the valve, intake, and the tube, as explained in earlier posts.

    He did a great job...CEL light is off, engine is noticeably peppier, and mileage seems a tad better. I don't plan to use dealer again under any circumstances if I can avoid it.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Coming back from Hartford, CT yesterday back to Jersey I sensed a little slippage in my A/T. Same thing this AM going to Post Office. Instead of going to dealer where I purchased (free loaner)I stopped by the closest Isuzu Dealer to have them take a look. Verdict was "A/T is shot, you need a new one". I replied if you can do it under warranty go ahead, let me know. If there is going to be a fuss, I'll have AAA tow it somewhere and I will part it out (to Paisan!!). Just got a phone message that it will be replaced under factory warranty. Truck has 111K was running terrific till this. I am most happy that it decided to go at 111K and not 121K. I am sure it will be a re-man, hopefully it will be OK. At least I did not get stranded any where. Also, no idiot lights came on, but I did take it in ASA I detected slippage. If I can get 200K out of the truck I will happily move on to something else. It is using a bit of oil lately but considering the miles I do not freak out about it. More details to follow......
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Looks like mine will take a similar toll.

    What dealer is it at? Cause I have a feeling my local one will give me a problem with mine.

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    I took it to Greenfield Dodge/Isuzu in Lawrenceville, NJ. I bought it at Lester Glenn in Toms River. I thought I might get stranded in the Pine Barrens if she let go on the way (45 mi.)there. Greenfield is 7 or 8 mi. away from me so I went there even though I expected a battle. So far, so good. I should have it back next Wednesday if all goes well. We'll see..........
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    They are giving you warranty coverage at 111K. That is pretty good for Isuzu. I have a 1999 and my 5yr/60K warranty will be up this summer.

    What's the deal with the trans? I haven't really seen any issues with the GM 4L30E having issues elsewhere. What is your take on it? Is there a longevity problem with the trans, or do you feel it is hard usage that caused this?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Paisan, seemingly you gave your tranny a good workout - high speeds, towing and traffic. Then again you seem to keep up with you overall maintenance. Beer47, my recollection is that you too kept up with you general maintenance.

    What can you tell the rest of us to keep us from having similar problems. Should we be flushing the tranny more often?, not at all? using synthetic?, adding a cooler? Any and all theories and observations would be appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Do a drain-fill of the ATF every 20K miles. I probably should have done it more often on mine. Heck I dunno if it is the tranny that's bad. I'm still thinking it may be the transfer case.

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    To give a little background on my Trooper's usage. I work for the largest UK brewing group here in the states as a MidAtlantic Regional Mgr. My Trooper is my work vehicle. I am in charge of 7 seven states and have 5 direct reports. Needless to say I drive alot. 111K since 6/30/00. Most of this is interstate and turnpike travel to see my salespeople and distributors. There is also a fair amount of NYC, Philly, Baltimore/DC traffic which as you can guess can be hard on a vehicle. I bought a Trooper because I felt if it had this "tough" off road reputation, then it should be able to handle my high mileage work. The 10/120 warranty was also a factor. I have indeed been very proactive with what I felt was important for maintenance. Not, what the manual would state necessarily but I what I would glean from these boards. If I remember the manual stated that A/T fluid was good for 100K. I didn't buy that and did flush/fill at 45K and 95K. I did not have the screen cleaned because I was loath to take anything apart that was functioning normally. The Trooper has not had any alignments and I just recently bought my 2nd set of replacement tires. No ball joints, tie rods, or any other suspension parts have been needed. I did put on new shocks around 70K. No off roading at all, but then again, I challenge all you off-roaders to spent a day in the Bronx and see what is tougher on a vehicle (LOL). Any sissy can up go up a hill, but try to out run an armed crack dealer at a busy red light! Trail, my foot PPPPlease!! All kidding aside, my A/T just started slipping a little but it did not strand me anywhere. When questioned at the dealership, I had all the answers on the "Tip of my Tongue" ("Brenda & The Tabulations" for those of you old enough to remember)and they did not ask to see any paperwork of work done as I expected. I am still waiting for the other shoe to drop so to speak but as of now it is being repaired under warranty with no questions asked. I am even more impressed with the starter at this point. Most people go to work and come home with perhaps a few stops added in after work. Some days I may start my truck 30 times depending on what I am doing that day. That is heavy duty in my book. I hope all the other components hang in there for a while! Cheers to all!!
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    For my 99, "Severe Conditions" schedule for tranny service was every 20K, vs. NEVER for the regular schedule. I did mine every 30K, but didn't own it long enough to say it helped longevity...
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    P/U my Trooper today 6 days after taking it in w/failed A/T. Runs fine. Warranty for reman A/T is 12/12. If it lasts as long as the first I'll be very pleased. I think I'll still go with flush and fill going forward unless I am convinced otherwise. I have to say that Isuzu did stand behind the warranty. No out of pocket on my part. It is about a $4K repair.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My truck goes in tomorrow for:

    Misfire Cylinder 1 (this was after I tried to change the plugs, and ripped a boot, and then replaced the coil and boot from st. charles)
    Cats
    Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

    When I get back from Virginia, I'll bring it in to get the tranny done, but I'm not too hopeful, I may bring it to your dealer Beer, since they seem to be stand up folks. How far down the shore are they?

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Central West Jersey not near the shore. Lawrenceville to exact, on Alt. Route 1. South of Princeton, near Trenton. Dick Greenfield Dodge Isuzu. They have a website. Let us know how you make out.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I brought my truck in for a few minor items...stuck hood latch, oil change and poor gas mileage. Of course they couldn't find a problem, but they offered to clean the EGR tube and ports...$90. I know I could have done this myself, but since it was there, I just went ahead with it.

    Interesting that in regards to the hood latch, they said "obviously this has been in a front end collision?" I don't know how they came to that decision? There is no damage...all that happened was that when I went to open the hood to check wiper fluid on a snowy day, the latch just didn't work. I hope there aren't new dents in the front end.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They know about the tranny issue, they had a guy in there and it's actually the TOD not the tranny. They'll replace the t-case when I get back from VA.

    They say the Cats are due to the Misfire, which is not the case cause the cats were having a problem before I meddled with the plugs which led to the misfire. So they'll fix the coil pack and then when I get the CEL again I'll bring it back to them and have them do the cats...

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    One of mine when last winter...there was almost a loud backfire/explosion and then it ran sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust...anyway soon after I noticed stalling that just kept getting worse until I was diagnosed with a blown IMG. Something to look out for if you get a problem with your cats is that perhaps some back pressure might cause your IMG to go.
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    I found this on "another" board:

    "I was called by NHTSA and I was told to expect the fuel sending units on 98-99 Rodeo to be recalled by Isuzu. They said expect 6-8 weeks."
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    I've owned 3 Troopers and the rear pads wear out near the 80,000 mile mark and yet the front pads last till over 125,000 miles. If 70% of the braking is done by the front wheels why do the rears wear out first?
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