Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

1535456585965

Comments

  • Options
    krogkrog Member Posts: 2
    Replaced sparks with Bosch Plats and Check Engine Light came on. Acceleration was a bit sluggish. Next took out out Bosch plugs and installed Champion Plats. CEL light now only comes on when I hit the gas (RPM over 2,000) and then it flashes. Any ideas?
  • Options
    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    What plugs did your Trooper have from the factory? When I pulled mine it had the Champions, RC10PYP4. I put new Champions in with the same number and had a few issues...seemed to have solved those by making sure the spring in the rubber boot actually was making good contact with the top of the plug...one I had to push down on the top of the spring with a screw driver while twisting it. Might want to disconnect the battery for a few minutes after making sure the upper and lower ends of the springs in the boots are making good connection. The disconnect should clear stored codes, and start fresh.
  • Options
    df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    In 2000 and newer computer use spark plugs for "ion sensing", something about emission check, of course when it not fire this plug.
    So your choice of SP is pretty limited to recomended ones from Champion, Denso or NGK. Check out sparkplugsDOTcom for detail.
  • Options
    krogkrog Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. My Trooper came with the RC10PYP4 plugs and that's what I put in on Monday night. Boots seemed secure with good contact and I tried disconnecting the battery. I have it at Goodyear right now and they are running a diagnostic check.
  • Options
    datsrick49datsrick49 Member Posts: 3
    Just got back into this list and you are talking about my current probelm! Just changed plugs in my 2000. Bosch. Test drive was rewarded with a "Check Engine" light. Runs a little punk,not as good as it did before. Thing I really want to know is - anyone have a good source for OBD II codes? Everything I can find, other than generic, says my code doesn't apply to Isuzu. Code is P1340.
  • Options
    datsrick49datsrick49 Member Posts: 3
    I see there isn't much chatter here, but I'll follow up my earlier post. I replaced the Bosch plugs with Denso and no "Check Engine" light. Runs as great as it did before. Denso is what I removed and foolishly trashed. As for the OBDII code, I have no idea what it may mean. If I ever take the Trooper in to an Isuzu dealer I'll quiz them. Word to the wise, do not change to a cheap spark plug, unless you like that yellow glow from the dash.
  • Options
    troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    FWIW, I went with NGK's for my '00 Troop. & have had no problems.
  • Options
    tcbrodeotcbrodeo Member Posts: 2
    My transmission and engine light started coming off and on. Our local dealership went out of business, so we have to travel half way across state to take it to the dealer. When we arrived at the dealership they charged us $80 to tell us that the "engine harness" was bad and they could not give us an accurate reading. They said this would cost $988 to fix and it was not covered under warranty. Has anyone had this happen? Doesn't seem like they will fix it til we fork out the $988.
  • Options
    sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Horsehockey...Take it someplace else. If the harness is bad...and not covered under warranty...order the part yourself from st. charles isuzu and have a trusted local mechanic install it.

    Then go back for them to check the transmission...perhaps after the same local mechanic gives you an idea of the problem.

    You are better off paying $100 locally than getting poor service, overcharged and having to drive across the state.
  • Options
    tcbrodeotcbrodeo Member Posts: 2
    Thank you! Since I read your post, I have been contacted by the dealership my husband visited. After I told the lady we were not happy with their business, she said the "big boss" was calling. I read another Isuzu message board that had someone else having the problem with the blinking transmission light. It will go off- and the transmission doesn't seem to be giving us trouble. My husband did take it to a local trusted mechanic, he did get a reading and it said (the code) it was slipping. When I called the dealer back and talked to the guy- he said they did get some codes off but it would stop in the middle and give them the harness error. Therefore, without a complete reading they would not fix it. The funny thing is---this is starting to sound like the run around I got from a Chevrolet dealer on a Chevy Impala. I kept up with phone calls, got on Edmunds, looked at all the conversations about checks, codes, recalls, etc. Even being a woman-I managed to make sense of everything. When I got to arbitration- I used the copies of conversations and the like and do you know they had to "BUY MY CHEVY BACK!" I really don't want to go through the problems- that's why I got the 10years 120K deal with no interest.
  • Options
    foreman1063foreman1063 Member Posts: 17
    I got new oem brake pads today for my 02 trooper and will put them on this weekend. My question is about the two tubes of stuff that came with each set of pads. One tube looks like some sort of grease ( for the caliper slides I presume) and the other tube has some orange adhesive looking material inside. There are also several plastic shims and metal clips that I'll probably figure out when I take the old ones off But some advice would be nice before I start. Just wondering if someone could look in there maintenance manual and describe the replacement procedure to me. Thanks.

    John
  • Options
    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The adhesive stuff is anti-squeel put it on the shims between the calipers and the shims.

     

    -mike
  • Options
    russ4russ4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Trooper with the GM V6. Recently I have been having intermitent trouble with the transmission. After driving for a while, the "check transmission" idiot light comes on, and when it does, if I stop at a stop light, the car won't engage first gear, it starts out in second. If I turn off the engine for a while, the problem goes away.

     

    Anyone know what's going on and how I can fix it and how much it might cost? Thanks much. -R
  • Options
    scott herrickscott herrick Member Posts: 2
    I have a 91 pickup that has just gone over 100K miles. The other morning I started the truck and got a warning light for the Rear Anti Lock Brakes and the Brake Warning light. Nothing seems to be wrong, the brakes still work fine. Where is the sensor for this, and what can be done about it?
  • Options
    scott herrickscott herrick Member Posts: 2
    Just as a follow up, I took the truck to a mechanic who hooked up his computer to it. It was an electrical anomaly that was caused by a bad taillight. He disconnected the battery negative lead for 30 seconds, and then re connected it. The lights cleared.
  • Options
    sxponiasxponia Member Posts: 1
    the same happened to my 93 trooper. I had changed the computer a while ago and changed my transmission recently and the light still came on. someone told me the computer was bad, which meant $1000 expense. I was not about to spend that amount. I and unscrewed and disconnected the computer cable connector from the main computer box under the steering and reconnected it after a minute of wait. I should have disconnected the battery also but I was too lazy. It's been 4 months and have not seen the light ever since. hope this helps.
  • Options
    blobbynicblobbynic Member Posts: 3
    99 Trooper with same TOD check light problem as bluedevils. TOD check light blinks periodically. Green light blinks slowly. Red check light comes on sometimes. Rear brakepad changed and rear brake line bled, but still blinking. Checked brake fluid and the level is fine. This is the same problem that bluedevils was having in 2004. Can someone suggest what I should do?
  • Options
    bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Wait and hope the warning lights stop blinking eventually! Seriously, I don't know what the problem was with my Trooper. It has been an off-and-on situation with our Trooper.
  • Options
    rodeoclownrodeoclown Member Posts: 1
    I was told that I needed to replace this gasket or seal that is inbetween the tranny and engine. The cross-memeber that is there has oil on it, as does other parts around it, but they told me it was about $1200.00. They told me that the tranny had to be pulled back, and drive shaft had to be taken apart in order to replace the seal. Has anyone done this? I have a 1996 Rodeo, 2wd, automatic, 3.2L engine. I live in Fayetteville, NC and work on Fort Bragg if anyone is in the area let me know. I have access to the post Skill Shop that has lifts and tools, etc. I don't mind getting dirty and do it myself, but if someone would be willing to give me a hand that would be appreciated.
  • Options
    ryhyryhy Member Posts: 1
    I have an issue with my 01 Rodeo, hope someone can help. When the lights are off and I press the brake pedal the brake lights work, but the radio lights come on - weird. Conversely, when the lights are on, the rear lights work until I press the brake pedal, then they go off. The local dealer is an idiot and doesn't know what to do with it....
  • Options
    johnj2johnj2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 trooper with 5 speed. In warm weather the trooper will not maintain idle, and will die if I don't keep foot on the gas. When this happens, the speedometer stops working. in cold weather there is no problem. When I restart the truck, it will idle fine, but after driving, even for a very short distance, it will stall if I put the truck in neutral. Occasionally, even in warm weather, after driving for a while, the speedo will suddenly come alive and the truck will maintain idle in neutral, only to drop off again after a while. I live in minnesota and can get by with this for our six months of winter -- since this problem does not occur in cold weather. but as soon as it warms up above about 40 degrees, this occurs. It appearl to be an obvious problem with electronics, perhaps a "computer" problem. Anyone have experience with this. (The truck has 210,000 miles, but is otherwise in good cond. our local dealer wants almost $200 merely to diagnose the issue.)
  • Options
    sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Not sure about your problem with the check light...however I have been having all sorts of problems with my TOD system and the differential not engaging the clutch. When warm, the 4 low will double the trans gearing but not engage the front wheels...Where I am going with this...I took it took it to a transmission guy and he gave it back to me and said that I didn't have a transfer case problem, but I have an electrical problem. He said that my transfer case might be fried, but it is not getting the right signals. He doesn't do electric. I have a '99. Perhaps the 1999's have a weak point that wears or isn't protected to road salt? Maybe there is something that causes wiring/sensors to go?

    The TOD check light sounds like either a sensor or electrical issue. I am considering buying the helm manual because this stuff can't be that complicated, and we are all locked into a dealer saying "We can't find anything wrong". If I do, I will be happy to post diagrams.
  • Options
    camelmixcamelmix Member Posts: 1
    It has 70,000 miles on it, wont turn over, auxiliary doesnt come on but the lights will. Could it be the starter or relay? Battery checks out fine. :confuse:
  • Options
    shooter1shooter1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Trooper, auotmatic, with 58,000 mi., that has started surging or "hunting" upon hard acceleration. (Passing or inclines) I hooked up my OBDII and it indicated no problem. I have, also recently, developed a leak in my exhaust system. Could these be related? Thanks for any help you can offer!
  • Options
    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Perhaps the front diffy isn't engaging? I know I had a problem when I left it in AWD mode for a whole winter without disengaging it. It got stuck with the front diffy not disengaging. It was a solenoid in the actuator that went.

    -mike
  • Options
    jamie6jamie6 Member Posts: 1
    I was driving home from my cottage one day and I pulled out of the toll booths and my engine began to knock rather loud. I got it back to my hometown and it got even worse. I took it to a mechanic but he said its not worth fixing and it would be too much to fix but I want to fix it for my girlfriend because she loves this SUV. This truck still starts up and runs exactly the same as it always did and it still idles at 750 rpms and still has the same amount of power. Its been sitting in my driveway since february and I want to get it up and running again. So I think its one of the pistons, maybe a snapped rocker arm? I still havent figured it out. I just need a little guidance so I can get a jump start on this. Should I get a used motor from the junkyard and drop it in? or take off the valve covers and see what it looks like? Ive worked on cars for a long time but this is gonna be my first engine swap so I need a lot of help with this one, thankks
  • Options
    lostlost Member Posts: 64
    You dont say what year your trooper is, or how miles are on it. If it is a 92 or later with the isuzu v6 you need to consider that it could very well be the timing belt tensioner making all the noise. It is a well documented problem.
  • Options
    enkidogenkidog Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 2000 Trooper and want to change the serpentine belt. Anyone know how to release the tension on the idler? THX, Enkidog
  • Options
    sguyesguye Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with an 86 trooper. After ripping half the car apart it was a simple problem. One of the stop light 1135 bulbs had been replaced with a single filament bulb. Changed the bulb and everything was fine.
  • Options
    enkidogenkidog Member Posts: 5
    Well, answered my own question. I took a closer look. Put a breaker bar with a 14mm socket on the stud in the center of the tensioner pulley and pull so the pulley moves downward. It helps to put a two foot length of pipe halfway down the breaker bar for more leverage. It can be a one person job with ease, however if you have a second person to hold the breaker bar while you slip the serpentine belt over the last pulley it makes the job easier.
  • Options
    cedosada1cedosada1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi everyone,

    I've been searching and it seems like it's tricky to get the dipstick for tranny fluid. Where is this located? I see that I have to change the filter and gasket too.

    Any shops in the San Francisco bay area?

    How much is timing belt replacement? I heard it's a chain? I was told there isn't one? I was told there's a serpentine belt?

    Thanks!
  • Options
    kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    Hello everyone,
    I have a check engine light issue. I have a "01 Trooper & bought it brand new in 2001. So far it has been flawless, 28000miles & no problems whatsoever. The "check engine" light came on like 2 1/2 weeks ago, i took it to the dealer who recommended cleaning out the intakes (carbon deposit crap), clening the injectors, new fuel filter & adjusting the throttle. after almost $400 i thought my prob was fixed, didn't consider it that bad considering all i had spent money wise last 4yrs was cost of fluid changes. Well, the CE light came back on like 5 days ago, after which my wife filled up the gas tank & it want away afetr a few hours. So i thought it might be a loose fuel cap. The light is back on again today. Any suggestions as to what might be the cause, i hate to have to take it back to the dealer only to get ripped again. do you think it might be a faulty gas cap, or fuel line issue? any help on this would be appreciated. thanks!
  • Options
    bjd1020bjd1020 Member Posts: 2
    WHen I turn on the fan for my ac or heat nothing comes out the vents any ideas as to what may be the problem or solutions.

    thanks.
    bd North Carolina
  • Options
    pascualpascual Member Posts: 1
    my brake lights are out, both of them, on my '92 trooper. yesterday i checked the bulbs and the fuse, both "appear" (to my untrained eye) to be in good shape. what do i check next? the tail lights work when the headlights are on, but they dont work when the brake pedal's depressed. i havent dissected the owner's manual yet but i skimmed it and didnt see anything on trouble shooting the back brake lights. any suggestions??
    thanks!
  • Options
    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I have a '00 Trooper LS 2/wd. Not sure how similar the setup is, but mine quit working last fall. Probably did not notice them for awhile. About the same time my cruise control stopped working..that I noticed. Once I found the brake lights not working and worked down through the fuses (even though the switch on the petal might be the cause). Finally found the blown fuse and brake lights work again...funny thing is that the cruise control started working again...I could not tell from the labels in the fuse panel that they were on the same fuse. Might need to pull some more fuses and replace any that you're not sure about... fuses are cheaper and easier to change than switches, etc. Sorry I don't remember what the label was on the one I replaced.

    Bill
  • Options
    aau204aau204 Member Posts: 1
    Hi mr jhonj2:
    I'm David from Uruguay, I've a Trooper 1989 2.6 a/t.
    Time ago have problem with idle speed, are You cheked the vacuum lines and intake tubes?
    Some times the idle are right and when the temp change, have vacuum less.
    I can said: chek the vacuum rubber tubes and the intake tube and gaskets.
    Good lucky:
    David
  • Options
    cindy215cindy215 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Trooper and am redoing the a/c system myself any idea where the expansion valve is on the thing....Mechanic said had to have one somewhere but no idea from him....Any info would be appreciated
  • Options
    laerylaery Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1990 isuzu trooper 4 cyl. when i try to start it the motor revs up a little then dies. If i hold the throttle wide open it will finally stay running. sometimes it actually takes quite a few tries to get it to run. any input would be great. thank you
  • Options
    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Have a muffler shop sleeve the pipe. I had this problem 3 times on my Trooper, luckily it was still under warranty at the time, however the 1st time I had it fixed at a midas and they sleeved it cause I was away on a trip.

    -mike
  • Options
    lostlost Member Posts: 64
    inside the heater/cooling box
  • Options
    wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    Thanks Paisan , A few weeks ago I had a man at a tire shop remove the pipe and he built a joint with a couple of springs attached that allows the pipe to expand and move yet not leak exhaust gas. $ 100.00 Trooper is good as new with 100,000k going for 50 more Thanks again.
  • Options
    troop00troop00 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 LS and if the temp is above 85 the A/C does not seem to be able to keep up and it never gets comfortable in the vehicle. Anyone else seen this or heard of any issues? Thanks.
  • Options
    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I have a 2000 LS (2 wd) as well...the dark red. If I park in the garage and don't let it get hot, the AC is fine. If it sits out in the sun and gets hot, then it takes 15 minutes to catch up.

    I don't like the Auto setting since it never seems to do real well controlling the temp. In hot weather, I usually keep the temp lever all the way left to the lowest setting and adjust the fan manually.

    Are you using the Recirculate setting? Here in Memphis where it is pretty humid, having it set to recircultate helps a lot.

    On some really hot days it is hard to keep confortable with all the glass. The old R-12 systems seemed to work better from the start...with the new r-134 systems it seems that you need to get up to speed for a little while to get the cooling going. At least that has been my impression for several vehicles.

    Has your Trooper always cooled this way or could it be a little down on freon and need a recharge to get back up to speed?

    Bill
  • Options
    seano1seano1 Member Posts: 1
    hi all new to forum was wondering what i need done for a tune up for my 99 trooper with 55000 miles and rough cost thanks
  • Options
    chadechade Member Posts: 14
    when I start my 1993 trooper LS im geting a very loud squeeling. it only last for about 30 seconds. I sprayed with belt dressing and it went away temporarily but its back with full effect. anyone?

    Chad
  • Options
    lostlost Member Posts: 64
    #1 Check the condition of the belt. #2 Check the condition of the idler pulleys #3 Check the condition of the tensioner pulley assembly.
  • Options
    mrowlandmrowland Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    Used to post under Tetonman until Edmunds changed site around....

    Our 99 Automatic has started to have a problem with shifting. Driving the truck, it will clunk hard while shifting to second from first and then again while downshifting. We changed the ATF at 58,000.

    The strange thing is that when I shift the truck into reverse or drive from park, the indicator light on the dashboard (P, R, D) blinks or doesn't light up at first.

    Any guesses as to whether or not this is transmission or computer related? Anyone have similar issues? If so, please educate me... thanks!
  • Options
    rspeicherrspeicher Member Posts: 2
    I had that problem repeatedly with my '99 Trooper. Fortunately the dealer never did the cleaning recommendation. it always came back to the gas cap. I lubricated the rubber seal on the gas cap so it makes an air-tight connection with the filler tube, and told my wife to crank it at least 2 turns. It's never come back on since.
  • Options
    lostlost Member Posts: 64
    Check your battery and alternator.
  • Options
    knucklesknuckles Member Posts: 1
    Just found this forum and hope someone can help. I have a 1991 Trooper with the 2.8 V6. Aside from the motors real lack of power, the only problem I am having with the truck is the a/c. It blows icy cold at normal setting, but when I switch to max, the a/c cuts out. Not good out here in Arizona. I am thinking it must be some type of sensor, but don't know for sure. Any ideas??? Thanks.

    Knuckles
Sign In or Register to comment.