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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sante3sante3 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 91 trooper, that stopped running,i spray some gas inside the throttle body and it runs. I disconected the fuel line that goes to the fuel filter and turned the engine and no gas came out. The question is how can i check if the relay is bad or if the fuel pump is bad, i dont want to buy a fuel pump and then find out that its the relay. can anyone help me out? sante3 thanks.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Check the fuel filter first, it is located on underside of the Driver side door behind the running board or may be it is in the engine compartment. After an overnight parking, when you first turn the ignition ON, you should here the Fule Pump Pressurizing whinning sound if you try to listen for this sound coming from the fuel tank area. The relay is usually located in the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Behind LH Side Of I/P, Above Kick Panel.
    should measure 80 Ohms resistance through coil, and you can jumper the pump from there to see if it turns on. Make sure you have power at the relay before you jumper. If power is there, and jumper is in place, then either bad pump, or connector or open circuit between relay and pump.
    Remember that the relay will only get a two second run time from the ecm, so you wont find power to the coil unless you are right there when you turn on the key to see it.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    From etrailers.com web site on Weight Distribution systems... I would think that towing 5000 lbs with the Trooper would be much nicer with trailer brakes. I've kept mine to 3000-35000 lbs...comfortable unless making a sudden stop.

    Weight Distributing Hitch Systems are designed to increase the capacity of the towing system when added to a Class III, IV or V trailer hitch. The idea is to distribute the load of the trailer evenly to all of the tow vehicle and trailer wheels. To Accomplish this, spring bars are used to absorb load and level the trailer. This offers a more level ride, improved steering and increased braking control, all the while enhancing towing safety.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Here is a link that will take you to a reference to an Independent Organization that lists Makes and Brands of Motors that have exhibited interference......Good Reference although I have seen debate about the Isuzus! Better safe than sorry!

    http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/isuzu-trooper-articles.html
  • sante3sante3 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for answering. I tried to start the car the next day and it ran for 10 miles, then all of the sudden after I turned it off it would not turn back on. I waited for an hour and it turned back on. Could this give you a better idea of what the problem might be? I changed the fuel filter on it already (before this happened). During the one hour wait we tried a new relay and it did not help start the car, so this leaves us with the fuel pump, or there anything else? Thank you,
    Santi3.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Please provide details to help understand the problem better, if the Trooper is cranking hard, but not starting, then check the Fule Pressure Regulator, it may be leaking, which cause loss of fuel pressure. if you hear the whinning noise of the Fuel Pump Pressurizing when you turn the ignition to ON, the pump is fine. Also, check the battery, alternator, MAP and MAF sensors and O2 Sensors.
  • sante3sante3 Member Posts: 5
    Hi let me start by telling you this is a 91 trooper, I bought it brand new. It has 178,000 miles and the fuel pump or pressurized regulator has never been changed. Luckily it stopped running in the garage, so I checked and I determined it was fuel. I sprayed some fuel in the throttle body and it ran for a few seconds. So I put all the components together thinking the problem was gone and the engine ran only for 10 miles, this time I was stuck by the Auto Parts and tried a new fuel pump relay. It did not help. Waited for 2 hours and the engine turned back on. Now it's sitting in the garage; I checked for the fuel pump to pressurize and did not hear anything, but the engine turned back on. Now it's sitting in the garage; I checked for the fuel pump to pressurize and did not hear anything, but the engine runs. Also, checked the fuel pressure regulator and there is no leak and no smell of gas anywhere. I hope this gives you a better idea. I really appreciate it.
    Sante3
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I assume you have the fuel injected engine since you refer to the throttle body. That being said, then the symptoms you describe sound like a fuel pump that is going bad. Intermittent operation is typical. A bad connection or break in the wire harness could also be at fault. You need to establish whether the pump is actually on each and everytime you attempt to start the engine.One guys opinion.
  • sante3sante3 Member Posts: 5
    Hi, how can i make sure that is not the fuel pump pressure regulator.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Only way to be sure is to put a fuel pressure test gauge on the fuel rail and see what pressure is being put out by the fuel pump. I think there is a fitting already on the rail for this purpose. This will tell you a) if the fuel pump is actually moving fuel at pressure and b)whether the fuel system is functioning by holding pressure when the pump turns off. If pressure drops drastically as soon as pump shuts off, it could be a faulty pressure regulator bleeding fuel back to tank. I don't think it is a faulty injector since you are obviously not getting gas to the cylinders to fire . Remember, please, that gas is extremely flammable and that there could be gas under pressure when you hook the gauge to the fuel rail, so keep trouble lights and wiring away while you perform the tests in case gas leaks or sprays out.
    One guys opinion.
  • sante3sante3 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for the input. I guess I need a fuel pump.
    Sante
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Hi All....!

    I was wondering if anyone out there would have a online/offline engine manual for my 1991 ISUZU TROOPER 5 SPEED 2.8 LITER. I am looking to change out my transmission, and I need to know the specs of what I'm in for.

    Thanks a Bunch....!

    Maddy... :)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There's some links to check here:

    Online Repair Manuals

    If you find others, please let me know and we'll update the guide.
  • donna48donna48 Member Posts: 1
    My wonderful husband bought an Isuzu manual and it only has info on Front wheel drive. Our 1991 Trooper is 4 wd and he needs to get the wheel housing off the axle spindle.

    HELP! He's dealing with CNX$$!! at the local parts store who have no idea about Isuzu troopers!

    Thanks and God bless,
    Donna
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    Go to Ebay and search for Isuzu Trooper Manual. I just purchased a Trooper CD-ROM ($15), which shows (in detailed diagrams and text) all of the cars components as well as how to repair/service and replace them. Mine was through a Canadian vendor. Just make sure that they cover the correct year.

    Dennis
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Manual or autolocking hubs?
  • bendezbendez Member Posts: 1
    Both lights on my '96 Trooper come on and off with no change in shifting or driving noticed. First mechanic read codes as a potential grounding problem, but can not find the problem. Any advice?
  • 57oldmike57oldmike Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to repair the window crank on this vehicle but can't even gain enough access to see if it can be repaired or replaced, any suggestions, I have had the panel off but have not removed the plastic cover yet.
  • mtxpilotmtxpilot Member Posts: 2
    When another customer in the Service Department commented as I was dropping off my '04 Ascender with 47,000 miles, that she ALSO had the same exact issues with her vehicle, I began to wonder if there are common electrical issues that haven't been corrected among other Ascender owners.

    The AC Blower fan became inoperative without blowing fuses. The problem was in the circuitry in which a Resister blew. Part cost is $145! Labor, add 2 hours since it is embedded deep behind the console dash.

    Perhaps related? Isolated "burnt bulbs" in right rear brake lamp that don't last more than a dozen illuminations.

    Electrical problems surface like water leaks; problems arise at the weakest point in the engineering. Anyone else experience such gremlin mysteries?
  • heatherlyheatherly Member Posts: 1
    I am currently having the same problem with my 2004 asscender. The speed dial for the a/c or heat doesn't work except for the fifth speed. Can this be fixed without taking it into the dealer?
  • mtxpilotmtxpilot Member Posts: 2
    I ultimately had it corrected under warranty - a $240 part inside the electrical relay circuit; it takes more than 1.5 hr labor to pull apart the dash assembly and reassemble.
  • eyespy1eyespy1 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if any one can help me.
    Last night after driving home and went to drive into my steep driveway and I noticed that my vehicle would not go into drive (Automatic), it will go into reverse, however if you put it into drive first and will not go into reverse.
    Also noticed the electric side mirrors were folding in (malfuntioning)
    Is this a ECM problem?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    The transmission is electronic and the mode switch is mounted on the trans where the shifter enters the trans. There are electrical contacts in it that are known to corrode or require adjustment. commonly there is a problem with shifting and the trans telltale lights not being correct with shifter position. There is a very specific way to set the mode switch up properly, I think if you do a forum search you can find it. IF not, post again and maybe someone can help. good luck
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    It would help to know what year and model, but in general, I don't think the ecm has anything to do with the mirrors. Sound like it could be a connector somewhere being loose or a bad switch for the mirror. If you have the 4L30E trans, the mode switch on the trans may need attention. They get corroded due to position and can cause shifter problems. Do a forum search to see what the general write ups are before tearing in to it. Good luck.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I really hope someone can help me. I ran into a situation today with my 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter V6.

    Today I stopped to wash my car at the car wash. After I did so, I jumped on the hiway. About a miles down the freeway, My vehicle stalled. On the side of the freeway, I went thru the process of problem solving the situation. This is what I had done....

    First and foremost, I checked the distributor and router for moisture. In doing so, I found no moisture. I then checked all the plug wires, and everything was secure and dry. After that, I went ahead and checked to see if I had blown a fuse. In doing so, nothing was blown. I also checked the fabric wire fuses and rearanged the relays next to the fuses. Then I started to think that there was fule pump problem. I went ahead and put some fuel in the carb from a gas can I always keep for safety purposes. I added not too much and not to little. In craking it over, nothing fired. It just turned over. So then I got thinking, maybe my coil was shot. I went ahead and purchased a new one at the auto store and replaced the old one. To all avail, It still woudn't fire up. All it's doing is turning over. In the end, I ended up having to have it towed home.

    So here I am, and I just don't know what to make of it all. When I look back to what I did at the car wash. I didn't open the hood this time to wash down the engine, so I don't know how water could have got anywhere. One thing I did do was spray under the engine and the under carrage. I always do so here in Colorado. Esspecially when the snow and mud collects underneeth.

    If there is anyone out there that can help me troublshoot this problem, It would be soooo greatly appreciated....

    Thanks a bunch.... ;)

    Maddy :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I agree that it is weird that the engine would quit going down the road, but I think your ignition module probably died and that could be the problem. Either that, or your alternator quit and killed the electrics. You can have the alt checked. You seem to have covered the fuses and fusible links.....I don't have your engine, but the module is in the distributor. Last time I needed one it was about $40 bucks for an aftermarket model. Some parts stores have a tester for the module but I have found that it is easier to replace the module than trust the tester, since module problems can be intermittent. It is easy to replace, and I would carefully inspect the connectors on it too to make sure the wires are all intact. Make sure to use the packet of heat sink material that should be included with the module. Apply it to the base of the module where it seats on the distributor plate. Hope this helps. One guys opinion.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    YOU ARE THE MAN!

    The ignitian module (distributor module), was definately the problem! I replaced and she started up like a charm! THANK YOU so much for your help!!!

    Maddy :shades:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Thanks for posting how your problem was resolved. It helps all of us. As for me, even a blind dog finds a bone once in a while! Glad you were able to fix it!
  • jbdyjbdy Member Posts: 1
    Hi My son just bought an 2000 Izuzu trooper it runs great, though it needs some parts replaced Timing belt. It has 130miles. It had it's transmission replaced however it is going through a quart of oil every 100 miles My husband thought it was a loose dip stick cause he could not see any evidence of oil dripping from any where, thought it might be the valve gaskets, no sign of engine trouble ,( rough idle , ect it runs real smooth) .
    My husband is hoping it does not need an new engine!
    any notable history about a problem like this?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    The 3.5 engine does have a history of high oil consumption. Generally, it is considered a very reliable motor but the oil consumption you mention does seem to be excessive.
    I think that running a product like Seafoam or Rislone or similar and a couple of frequent oil changes with filters right away may help improve things. That is also a common treatment for this motor. It appears that the oil rings on the pistons get gummed up and stick resulting in less efficient oil wiping and thus increase the oil consumption.
    I am sure you will hear other items to check, among them the PCV valve and vacuum hoses, etc. All are good ideas.
    Also worth mentioning is that when you change the timing belt , also replace the water pump and pulleys. This is because it is a lot of work to change the belt,and having to go back in to fix the pump or pulley bearings later is just not worth the risk. The factory usually recommends changing the belt at 100,000 miles.

    Welcome to the Forum! Hope this helps. Try a search to learn more too!
    Remember that, like you, people come to a forum because they are having a problem, so the questions and problems you read about are heavily weighted with negative impressions. Seems like people who own Isuzus and keep them feel they are worth it!!!

    EDIT: thry this link http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=1914
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    ATFDmike is a great source of info. My dad has mine now, but I remember burning about 1q per 1k miles on dino oil, with synthetic I stretched it to about 1q/2k miles.

    -mike
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    A couple of other things of note about that generation Trooper. Spark plugs are recommended after 100K miles (most of change them before that). The rubber tube under the coil paks that extend down and cover the top of the plugs will likely be stuck on at least one. Use compressed air down the center hole in those rubber tubes to pop them loose...do not tear them trying pull them out since you have to purchase the complete coil pak with tube for around $150. Also, use only the plugs specified in the manual. I'll post below what my 2000 Trooper manual has. I had the RC10PYP4 Champions in my Trooper and put the same back in.

    Manual:
    K16PR-P11
    PK16PR11
    RC10PYP4

    If you use another non specified plug (platinum or otherwise) you are almost guarantee to have problems and throw a CEL.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Hi,
    I don't know if you remember me or not. I was the one who left the post I have down below. You gave me advice on replacing my ignitian (distributor) module. When I did so, my Trooper started like a charm. I thought it ok to email you back because you seem very knowledgible in the subject.Though the fix you gave worked, I seem to have the same problem now but a little different.

    The other day I started my truck up and went to a friends house. While I was sitting there waiting in my truck, it all of a sudden stopped running. When I tried to restart, it wouldn't do so. It just turned over. After about an hour, I went out to try to start it, and it started right up. When I headed on home, I drove about 5 miles, and than it stalled again. I did go ahead and problem solve everything listed in my previous post below, but nothing worked. I even went ahead and replaced the ignitian (distributor) module with a new one, and still it wouldn't start. Of course once again, I had to have my truck towed home. That next morning, I went out to see if my truck would start, and it started right up. I let my truck run for about a half hour, and it did not stall.

    So here. Not sure what to do. I'm afraid to drive my truck because I don't want it to stall again.

    If there is any advice you can give, it would be a great help...

    Tracy
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----
    I really hope someone can help me. I ran into a situation today with my 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter V6.

    Today I stopped to wash my car at the car wash. After I did so, I jumped on the hiway. About a miles down the freeway, My vehicle stalled. On the side of the freeway, I went thru the process of problem solving the situation. This is what I had done....

    First and foremost, I checked the distributor and router for moisture. In doing so, I found no moisture. I then checked all the plug wires, and everything was secure and dry. After that, I went ahead and checked to see if I had blown a fuse. In doing so, nothing was blown. I also checked the fabric wire fuses and rearanged the relays next to the fuses. Then I started to think that there was fule pump problem. I went ahead and put some fuel in the carb from a gas can I always keep for safety purposes. I added not too much and not to little. In craking it over, nothing fired. It just turned over. So then I got thinking, maybe my coil was shot. I went ahead and purchased a new one at the auto store and replaced the old one. To all avail, It still woudn't fire up. All it's doing is turning over. In the end, I ended up having to have it towed home.

    So here I am, and I just don't know what to make of it all. When I look back to what I did at the car wash. I didn't open the hood this time to wash down the engine, so I don't know how water could have got anywhere. One thing I did do was spray under the engine and the under carrage. I always do so here in Colorado. Esspecially when the snow and mud collects underneeth.

    If there is anyone out there that can help me troublshoot this problem, It would be soooo greatly appreciated....

    Thanks a bunch....

    Maddy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, sorry to hear of your problem.
    I think we have to get back to basics.......is there fuel being delivered to the TBI? Fuel pumps are known to be intermittent as well....but easy to check. Do you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key on? If you don't hear it for a couple seconds and then it shuts off, then it may not be working. You can jumper the pump relay on and then check the connector at the tank to make sure power is getting to the pump as another check. How about spark.....if you pull a plug wire can you see a spark jumping the gap when you crank the engine? Remember that the threaded part of the plug must be grounded for the plug to fire when checking. The coil may need to be checked if you are not getting a spark or the spark is very weak. Check all the grounds on the engine/chassis that you can.. clean them up to eliminate low voltage as a problem. Since the starter cranks I think we can assume the charging system is OK and voltage in battery should be 12 Volts.
    Start with these first. Let us know what you find. I am not real familiar with the 2.8 in a Trooper, my experience is from S trucks, but the same ideas apply when troubleshooting.
    These are the two most obvious choices to start with. Good luck.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    You may also want to check the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. As said before, first eliminate the Fuel Delivery problem.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for the reply...

    I did problem solve the fule. When my Trooper wouldn't start, I put some fuel manualy in the carb. Still it would not start. It just kept on turning over. I am thinking it is an electrical issue. I did go ahead and replace the coil with a new one. I also wend ahead and changed out the ignitian (distributer) modual with a new one. Still nothing. Of course I checked the basics. Cap and roter, fuses, plug wires. I will go ahead and check the ground connections.

    Tracy
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I did go ahead and add a little gas to the carb manually. Would it not try to fire up when I added the gas to the carborator?

    Tracy
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I was wondering. I have a Auto Zone right by my house. If I take the chance and drive my truck down there, will they be able to plug my truck in to check for ECM errors? Do you think with my issue, it would be a good thing to do? I was able to download the error code sheet from the internet.

    Tracy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Did you pull a spark plug or two and see what condition they are in? Make sure the engine is not already flooded. If plugs are wet they will not fire. HTH
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    First of all, I want to thank you for all the input.

    Today I let my Trooper run for a couple hours. I was hoping it would stall so I could try to problem solve more of the issue at hand. It didn't stall though.

    Today I came across a friend who said the problem I have might have something to do with the camshaft or crankshaft position sensors. Do you think this could be causing my stalling problems?

    Tracy
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    It could be Crankshaft Positional Sensor. My friend had the same issue, but his car use to stall only when he takes a turn for some reason. First make sure it is not MAF or MAP sensors as I mentioned before.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I did go ahead and replace the MAP sensor. The problem still occurd. As for the MAF sensor, I can't seem to locate the particular part in my vehicle. Do you know where it might be located? I'm also trying to figure out where the crankshaft position sensor might be or what it looks like.

    The reason why I ask is because there is a junk yard near buy that has 7 Isuzu Troopers of my make. I thought I would stop there and pull one of the MAF sensors. I know they're kind of spendy,

    Tracy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    go to www.myisuzuparts.com for illustrations of the parts.I don't know that there is a MAF on your motor, but look at the site. The crank positions sensor on a 3.2 is located just above and to the rear of the passenger side engine mount. HTH
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    The MAF sensor is in the air intake, it has lot of needle like components hanging, it just measures the amount of air getting in to the intake.
  • stak1stak1 Member Posts: 1
    I am an original owner of a 2000 Isuzu Trooper, 3.5 SL with 73k miles. I took a long trip last weekend (in the upper Midwest) and added 4qts. of oil 167 miles into the trip b/c my oil light went on after making a stop (I was about 800 miles short of being due for an oil change). I continued another 469 miles and added another 3 qts. I'm taking it in for an oil change today and then have an appt. w/a dealer next wed. for them to do some extensive testing (as I understand from a phone conversation when scheduling the appt.). The service dept. mentioned possibly needing to take apart the engine b/c it is consuming so much oil instead of doing an oil test of 5 check-ups every 500 miles. I also did notice a few drops of oil on my garage floor which I've never seen before. The phrase "taking apart the engine" makes me nervous (being a female in a male dominated auto service world). Should I try your advice of a couple of frequent oil changes and running a product before I take it in? Can I please get your thoughts on all this?
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    First off, this engine is known to burn SOME oil. I used to loose almost 1 qt. every two to three months. I can tell you what I did to my 2000 trooper (LS 3.5) which may help to remedy your problem. When may Trooper was approximately two years old, I read an online artical on modifying the oil filtering system. The standard oil filter on this vehicle is very small (which creates quite a bit of heat and restricted capacity and circulation). I removed the original threaded oil housing bolt with one I had found on a Trooper Upgrade web-site, which would accomodate a larger filter (Fram type PH8 or any other compatible brand, the same one used on the 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 litre V6). This more then doubles the size of the oil filter reservoir and increases it's flow. I also use only synthetic (Mobile Gold) oil and extended life (7,500 mile) premium oil filters. I now burn about half the amount of oil prior to the conversion. If you are interested in performing this conversion (you really can do it yourself), I can provide you with some additional info.

    DeSimone
  • wingsoverscwingsoversc Member Posts: 2
    Got water all over the engine and found moisture in distributor cap. Now distributor cap and rotor are dry. Engine will start but will not allow throttling in order to drive it. If water got into the TBI and fouled the plugs, would this cause this issue?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi and welcome to the forum. You don't say what year, model engine and trans your vehicle is equipped with. Kind of hard to supply a good answer. Pretty hard normally to get water that far into intake if you have stock equipped intake system, but it seems a little peculiar that it will start but not respond to the throttles. Your throttle position sensor (if equipped) may have been affected by the water as well. More info will probably get you more or better answers. HTH.
  • wingsoverscwingsoversc Member Posts: 2
    Trooper is a 1990 with the GM 2.8 V6. This one is 4WD with the 5-Spd manual transmission. The intake is the old style breather with the old style ring air filter. The breather covers only the TBI. I just started it again a few minutes ago. It now starts actually better than it has since I got it in Feb 07. Once started it runs pretty smooth. When you depress the accelerator, you can hear it choking itself to death on the fuel if you throttle past 2K RPM. I can smell strong gas fumes from the exhaust when it does this as well. It was powerwashed on Thursday of last week. Not a good idea I know but I had to get some of the oil from the front because I was looking for whatever is leaking so that I could repair it. Anyhow, I thought once it dried out it would straighten up but not the case here. Please help if anyone has any info on what could have caused this from someone else doing the same thing.
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