BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

div2 · March 2005

If the problem was logged by the dealer while the car was in warranty then the repair should be covered under warranty.

sunilb · March 2005

div-- thanks.
I just got off the phone with the dealership, and they said that they will diagnose it for free, but that if the cause is a different issue then I will have to pay for the repair.

I don't want to be unreasonable, but does this sound right? How do I know if they diagnosed the problem correctly during the first visit?

div2 · March 2005

First things first; wait and see what the new diagnosis reveals. If the original problem was never corrected then the odds are pretty good that the fault light is being triggered by that same problem.

sunilb · March 2005

div-- thanks, again.

My faith has been restored: turned out it was the wiring harness, but they worked with me and repaired it for free.

div2 · March 2005

Happy to help; I'm just glad to hear that everything worked out!

sunilb · March 2005

Well, the story continues... this morning the SES ("Service Engine Soon") light came on within 2miles of leaving my house (it wasn't on when I picked up the car last night).... went straight to the dealership and am now awaiting the new diagnosis.

Not sure if this is somehow related to the work they did (just b/c of the timing) but who knows.

As frustrating as this has been, this continues to be the best car I have ever owned from a pure driving perspective. This has got me questioning how much I want to pay for this privilege though.

Will keep you posted.

sunilb · March 2005

Well, the Intake Cam Shaft sensor went bad-- according to the SA these can just go bad at random intervals.

Unrelated to the airbag light, so I'm out-of-pocket on this one but hopefully there isn't much more of this [wishful thinking?].

The SA said that he usually sees these go while still under warranty.

kyfdx · March 2005

Mine went at 8000 miles... 2 days after I bought the car and the first day my wife drove it to work....

dhanley · March 2005

Returning to chicago from my weekend in wisconsin, i heard a rythmic thunking from the engine. I'm a paranoid driver, so i feared the worst.

Took it to my indie mechanic. It took him a little while to diagnose. Belt with a chunk missing. Got out of there all better for $80.

Left front shock is leaking. He says they should probably be replaced at 103K miles, and suggests that i buy used m3 springs from some guy online and have him slap on bilsteins. Whole thing ought to cost $400 or so. Not sure if i want my car lowered, though.

div2 · March 2005

Yep, failure of that sensor is a pretty common occurence. Sorry.

div2 · March 2005

I'd just do the shocks; switching to Bilstein HDs will make a big difference.

sirdarby1 · April 2005

I added Chevron Pro Guard fuel injector cleaner to my nearly empty gas tank (98 328ica) last night. I thought I was adding Techron. The bottles looked nearly identical except for a cardboard sleeve I missed on the Techron. Also the Techron is $5.00 more. Did I do any harm. When can I add Techron again? As you recall, I had a flaky gas needle that moves around alot before correcting itself.

Also, my oil light comes on (blinks, then gets stronger) when my engine idles at red lights after driving awhile. I checked the oil and it is OK. Dealer says it is the oil level sensor going bad and not to worry about it. What do you guys think?

kdyfx - I value your input if you can oblige.

div2 · April 2005

1. Techron Pro Guard is a less concentrated version of Techron-which is why it costs less. You didn't do any harm, but I wouldn't add any Techron at this point.
2. If your red oil light is illuminating it is indicating VERY low oil pressure. The reason could be as simple as a bad sensor but it could also indicate other more serious problems. What oil are you using? I'd recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 or 15W-50.

kyfdx · April 2005

What div2 said..

Please don't value my opinion when it comes to mechanical problems.. The only tools I own are under that flap in the trunk of the car.. My only other tools are experience and logic.

regards,
kyfdx

sirdarby1 · April 2005

I always value your input.

I use Castrol 5w30 synthetic.

Thanks for the advice.

div2 · April 2005

If you want to continue using Castrol buy the 0W-30 Syntec that says "Made in Germany" on the bottle. You can find it at most AutoZone stores. Another possible reason for your oil light blinking is that the oil has become diluted. How often do you add Techron? More often than once every oil change can cause problems.

shandy · April 2005

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone had a fix for this as I have same prob too on my 323i Coupe ???

qnmast · April 2005

Hello. I just bought a 2001 325i and i just had a light come on yesterday it is a round light above my seat belt light. The owners manual is missing and I am ordering one, but I am really concerned about the light. Does this sound like an airbag light to you? Any information would be helpful.

amz · April 2005

My dealer told me that my 323i (2000) has problem with power steering leakage. He said that I need to replace power steering line. I was monitoring level of power steering oil. Level is getting lower very slow. My question is should I replace power steering line right away, or just buy power steering fluid and keep adding it as necessary? If I should wait with replacement, what kind power steering fluid I should buy? On cap it says ATF oil only. Is it just regular automatic transmission fluid, or some special oil?
Thanks for your help.

div2 · April 2005

Leaking power steering hoses have been a chronic problem for BMWs going back to the E3 sedans. Is there a puddle of ATF oil under the car? If not, the suspect hose is only seeping. Replacing a P/S hose isn't too bad; the difficulty factor depends on which hose is leaking. Sometimes simply replacing the crimped-on clamps with good screw drive clamps will solve the problem. As for the proper oil, just use any brand name Dexron III ATF. I use Mobil 1, but I'm a bit obsessive about maintenance.

dkl · April 2005

after many visits and a change of dealers it was fixed by changing the alternator pulley and belt.

grantchstr · April 2005

Having just bought an xi I am wondering whether the Premium gas recommended in the manual is really necessary (on my Volvo S60 the 87 works just fine instead of 91 or 89). With gas prices zooming right after I shelled out for the car I am going to try 89 to start with and see if there is a drop off in performance - any observations?

I apologize if this subject has been beaten to death already!

shipo · April 2005

Yup, beaten to death many times. :P

Basically, you get what you pay for. A late model BMW will run on 87, 89 or any Premium grade. Having said that, by using a lower grade of fuel, you will hamstring your ride, and as such, not get full performance or all of the mileage that you car is capable of. Why? Because by using a lower grade of fuel your cars' OBC retards the ignition timing to keep the combustion process from damaging your engine. When the timing is retarded, performance in the form of acceleration and fuel mileage suffer. How much does it suffer? By most accounts the extra miles in a tank full of Premium more than offsets the cheaper cost of Regular gasoline.

Best Regards,
Shipo

sunilb · April 2005

mine's fixed-- first time they replaced the seat belt receptacle, but that only worked for ~ 2months. Second time, they replaced the wiring harness (it's been two weeks and so far, so good). Seems like nothing was actually wrong with the airbag, but I'd hate to find out for sure (i.e., there's only one definitive way that I know of and it's much more expensive).

fcao · April 2005

05 325i
A friend suggested me to change engine oil right after the break-in period (say 1000 mil). It sounds like a good idea: flushing out any unwanted particles for a new engine.

The recommended maintainance is still more than 14K miles away. Is it a good idea to request the dealer to do this extra engine oil change on my money?

shipo · April 2005

My opinion is that it would be a waste of money. BMW breaks their engines in at the factory for something like the equivilant of 1,000 miles of driving, and then they change the oil. Personally, as I don't have all that much confidence in the BMW/Castrol oil as I do in Mobil-1, I change out the BMW oil after about 7,500 miles.

Best Regards,
Shipo

fcao · April 2005

Will changing from Castrol to Mobil-1 give any excuse to the dealer if any warrantee issue arise later?

By the way, thanks for the info about factory break-in.

shipo · April 2005

"Will changing from Castrol to Mobil-1 give any excuse to the dealer if any warrantee issue arise later?"

None what-so-ever. Mobil-1 0W-40 (which is the only Mobil-1 that you should use) meets or exceeds all BMW specificaitons for oil.

Best Regards
Shipo

qnmast · April 2005

Well....was that the light that came on? Was it round with 3 bars on each side? I just don't know what the light is and I thought that could possibly be it

ferricoxide · April 2005

Ok, probably a silly question, but, "what's a reasonable expectation for battery lifetime on a 2002 BMW 330Cic that sits undriven?" I ask because, I travel for a living. Since August of last year, I've had THREE brand-new batteries flatten to the point of not being jumpable, two of them since getting a solar-powered trickle-charger.

I assumed the original battery died because I hadn't driven it for two weeks and it was nearly 3yrs old.

I had assumed the first new battery died because I hadn't driven the car for two weeks and hadn't had it on a charger.

I had assumed the second new battery died because I hadn't driven the car for two weeks, but the solar panel had been ending up in the shade caused by the
winter sun's position.

This most recent one... I don't know what the hell to think. The damn car's on a charger, I drove it 18 days ago for over an hour straight and the solar panel has been sitting in full, all-day sunlight.

It wouldn't be so horrible except that THE only place to get batteries seems to be from BMW, and they want $160 for each damn battery. Now they want to sell me the BMW Battery Charger to try to prevent this.

What the hell? I mean, my 1998 Z3 didn't seem to do this. Just how long SHOULD I be able to let the car sit without having to buy a new battery???

-tom

rhmass · April 2005

Based on my experience with the BMWs I have owned, the battery lasted between 7 to 10 years. In replacing your original battery, be sure to get Interstate battery which is designed for BMWs and is better than BMW replacement battery from the dealer. It costs about $105

ferricoxide · April 2005

Any idea which battery? I'd tried going to NTB and Sears and other similar places, but noone had batteries for my car. Only the dealerships had them and they seem to be utter crap.

-tom

shipo · April 2005

If I recall correctly, some 2002 vintage cars had a problem with their electrical systems that caused the battery to discharge while sitting, and that the problem would manifest itself in something like only 3 or 4 days. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the problem has been successfully diagnosed by BMW and there is now a known cure for this situation. I'd have your dealership take a crack at fixing the problem before I invested in anymore batteries.

Best Regards,
Shipo

rhmass · April 2005

The model carried by Interstate Battery is MTP-91. Go to their website and it will tell you their dealers in the city you live.
I agree with shipo that you should check out the problem draining your car battery before you want to put in another one. If you do, this is the right battery for your car.

shipo · April 2005

Check out the following link:

jbailey6, "BMW 3-Series Sedans" #25669, 10 Feb 2004 11:43 pm

ponytrekker · April 2005

Just put water in. It'll run fine. But shhhh, don't tell anyone. The oil companies will have your legs broken.

Seriously, you buy an expensive car and you want to chintz out on $3 a tank? Put the good stuff in. Live a little. You'll get better mileage and performance.

sunilb · April 2005

it sounds like you are referring to the brake sensor light (indicating that you need to have your brakes replaced... yellow circle with yellow bars on each side).

qnmast · April 2005

that is a bummer....i just got the car two weeks ago.....oh well...thank for your help

sunilb · April 2005

several people have indicated that changing brakes (rotors and pads) on these cars is relatively simple and a do-it-yourself job for around $200 in parts and 60-90minutes of time. just a thought. [check out bimmerfest for details]

amz · April 2005

Thanks for your reply. I went to dealership to replace one of power steering lines. Technician told me that is better to change both power steering lines, he thinks that both of them are leaking. It is another $350 out of my pocket. My car is 4.5 years old with 57000 miles, and I already spent more then $4000 on maintenance (including $2000 for transmission replacement). What is it bad luck? Or BMW quality is not as good as it advertised?

derfo · April 2005

One of BMW's problems is their transmissions are made in France, not Germany!!!

kyfdx · April 2005

Could you please expound on that? What would make a German-made transmission better? My entire BMW was assembled in South Africa.. Do you suppose that I should be worried that it will be less trouble-free than the units assembled in Germany?

And, how is this a problem for BMW?

derfo · April 2005

Your BMW was built in SA, but where was the Trans built??
I will take German engineering and build 10 to 1 over the French!!

kyfdx · April 2005

Well.. my car was assembled in SA, but I'm betting the engineers were still in Germany..

Same with the transmission.....

Do you assume that all of your clothes are designed at the point of manufacture?

Or that Sony TV sets are designed by Chinese engineers?

Why do you think the French can't design products well.. they don't go to school there?

div2 · April 2005

I'm intrigued; just what makes the non-German tranny prone to failure? The one in my E39 just passed the 116000 mile mark with no problems and only one fluid change at the 99000 mile mark. Please elaborate on the inherent weaknesses in the design. Inquiring minds want to know!

div2 · April 2005

"I went to dealership to replace one of power steering lines. Technician told me that is better to change both power steering lines, he thinks that both of them are leaking." He just "thinks" so? Well, maybe he's correct, maybe he isn't. The Tech sounds like a part replacer and not a mechanic. There was a seeping hose on my wife's E39 and my independent tech fixed it by replacing a clamp for all of 50 cents.
As for BMW reliability and durability, the maintenance costs on my 1995 95000 mile E36 average less than $40/month while the wife's 1997 116000 mile E39 running costs average around $85/month. Those figures include scheduled maintenance, repairs, and tires.

mastershake · April 2005

I also have a '99 BMW 323. It currently has 60k and I bought it used so I have no idea if the brakes have ever been done on it. The dealership is trying to get me for well over a 1,000$ for front and rear discs and pads. He's telling me 128$/pair for the pads and I've seen them for as low as 45$/pair online for the same vehicle. As far as the rotors; Should I just mic them myself? Where can I get the information I need so that I know what government standards are? I think it's a little odd that all four pads AND rotors go bad simultaneously. How come you can't go to a brake joint and get pads? They always say the freakin' rotors are bad? Can anyone help?

shipo · April 2005

Okay, I'm going to help you separate the wheat from the chaff here.

I buy my pads from ImportReplacementParts.com, however, pick any place you want.

According to http://www.importrp.com/catalogm.php?man=34&type=34&year=30&year_name=1999

Front PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $39.99
Rear PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $29.99

Front Brembo Brake Rotors are 37.99 (x2) = 75.98
Rear Brembo Brake Rotors are 47.99 (x2) = 95.98

Front OEM Brake Rotors are 27.00 (x2) = 54.00

Using the Deluxe pads and all Brembo rotors, the total cost for parts is $241.94 plus taxes and shipping. Believe it or not this is a fairly easy do it yourself job, however, if you don't want to DIY, then you can certainly find a local independent BMW shop to do it for you.

As for minimum rotor thickness, it should be stamped or cast into the back side of the hat, so all you need to do is to take the rotors off and look inside.

Regarding all four corners needing replacement at the same time. Yup. The fact is that the BMW is a fairly well balanced animal, and as such, it uses all for corners to perform most every maneuver in the driving regimen, except of course acceleration when we are talking about a RWD car. As such, while the rear brakes will wear out slightly slower than the fronts, from what I've seen on my two BMWs the rears will last maybe 5,000 miles longer than the fronts. It ain't worth it to do one set, and then do the others a month or so later, just replace them all.

Regarding the rotors going bad after a single set of pads. That is sort of a misnomer. What is happening these days is that manufacturers are trying to reduce both unsprung weight for better handling and overall weight for better mileage. One of the first components to be put on a diet were brake rotors. It is not at all unusual these days for rotors to be very near, if not below minimum thickness levels after a single set of pads. As for those that aren't? If you cut them, then they will be very near, and then only a few thousand miles into the next set of pads they will be well below minimums. With rotors being so inexpensive these days, most folks just toss them without even checking to see if they can be reused.

I don't know if this helps all that much, however, it is what it is.

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2 · April 2005

A set of BMW rotors will almost always last through two sets of pads. The reason dealers often push to change the rotors is that in some cases the rotors may wear past their minimum thickness before the second set of pads are worn out. That said, in my 20 years of continuous BMW ownership(from E3-E39) I have never had a problem with using BMW rotors for two sets of pads-track cars or street sleds. I'd go with Axxis Deluxe Plus pads on a street driven car and I'd get the rotors from a BMW dealer who offers a good CCA discount, such as The BMW Store in Cincinnati. As for "brake joints"-blecch

-they are usually franchises trained to deal with wheeled appliances from Dullsville such as minivans and fwd family sedans. Who knows what "white box" junk they might slap on your car-or if they even know how to do the job propoerly? Find a good local independent BMW shop. Check with other CCA members in your area for referrals. OTOH, why not buy the E46 Bentley manual and do it yourself? It's a very easy 2-3 hour job; my ten year old son can do it...

qnmast · April 2005

ok....so I got them fixed by a mechanic (I am a girl and would not have even known where to start)......just got it fixed yesterday........

(keep in mind I have had the car for two week)......today a 17 year old on a cell phone ran a red light and I plowed her.....i am beginning to think maybe this isn't the car for me :sick:

the damage is not that bad....but bad enough to make me mad.....oh well....I will get it fixed and move right along to what happens next...... :surprise:

Just thought that was interesting

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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