Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
mike
Don't forget- all this tech has trickled down from the 7 to the 5 to the 3. They have had a chance to change the "hey that's a cool idea- let's put that in- to dumb, it broke all the time, use the simple widget that never fails." :sick: :confuse:
-Paul
Best Regards,
Shipo
I don't have a Bentley manual. Does anybody know where the O2 sensor(s) is(are) on a 325xi?
-Paul
-Paul
My question/concern is once the car is no longer under warranty, how to fix it. I tried heavy-duty double sided tape, but that won't hold it for more than a couple of hours. The problem seems to be heat related, because the trim always seems to detach in the summer months.
Is there any type of industrial super adhesive that can be used to reinstall the existing trim? Apparently this must be somewhat common, because the dealership immediately knew what the problem was.
-Paul
Wow! I have exactly the same problems. At first window regulator failed (rear/right door). But I fixed it myself. One week later “service engine soon” light came on and I noticed RPMs are a little bit high at idle: it’s around 800 RPMs (it used to be 600). The light disappeared after couple days.
I spoke with service advisor at “BMW of San Diego” and he says there are several reasons which can cause that kind of problem:
- coils;
- O2 sensor;
- some kind of electric glitch.
I have appointment in two weeks.
By the way, can someone recommend BMW dealership/good independent BMW mechanic in San Diego area? I’m not really happy with “BMW of San Diego”.
Thank you.
2002 BMW330, mileage: 61,000.
Actually there is another reason for two week appointment – I need a loan car.
Gorilla Glue- Which foams and expands (not like a volcano though)
Second choice- Liquid Nails
If it is the sensor, where on the engine is it, can I reach it, and is it something easy to replace?
-Paul
Mine was replaced under warranty.. But, I've heard it is a feasible DIY job.. Not sure what is involved, though..
Not that I would ever attempt it...
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Thanks.
-Paul
No idea of the cost.. as it was under warranty..
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
When driving today that light came on and a bad, burning like smell was coming out of the AC. Turning the AC off made the smell go away. I have been having problems the last few weeks with the AC randomly going from low to full blast on it's own. Anyone familiar with this problem or what it could be?
Thanks
Dean
- you have pressed DSC button (it disables/enables stability control system);
- there is system malfunction in the DSC system.
Sorry for stupid question - did you press DSC button?
I've pressed the DSC button accidentally myself a couple of times, so that's probably why your light is on. And I doubt that it has anything to do with the A/C problems or smell -- probably just a coincidence. Unless, without the DSC active, you are burning up your tires by flooring it from a stop every time .
Thanks for your help.
Jim Brown
This came from the dealer service manager so take it with a grain of salt but I believe he is correct.
If you are going to store your car, disconnect the battery. You should be fine for several months with the battery disconnected.
Quiz for everyone: Who thinks leaving a battery sitting on concrete will cause it to discharge more quickly then if you set it on wood blocks?
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
One of my techs is working on a 2001 BMW 325i. The cooling system fan won't run. Do any of you have a technical bulletin I can read, or any repair information?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
MitziJ
Kyfdx, you win the prize for being brave enough to answer my trick question!
You are correct about temperature making a difference but it's in the opposite direction. Cold temperatures actually make your battery last longer (ever put a D cell battery in the refrigerator to keep it charged?).
Back in the 'olden days (way before I was born), batteries would discharge if left on concrete. Modern batteries no longer have "leaky" cases and will not discharge any faster on concrete than if left on wooden blocks.
A common misperception that still exists.
The 3M stuff can be tricky to use. You need to use the right amount to do the job.
Probably the difference is the 3M stuff lets you take it back off if you need to.
I'm not sure about the GG. If it works, what do you have to lose by using it?
Where is a good, reliable source for the Bentley manual? I found one on Bimmerzone that lists is for 82.95 (for the 1999-2005 3 Series). Amazon doesn't have it yet.
-Paul
www.consumeraffairs.com and http://www.nhtsa.gov
You will find more cases there. Also talk to BMW N.A. After some talks they will agree to share 50% of cost.
It is important that you file complaints on those two websites. They work with the manufacturer if problem is wide spread. For that they need complaint reports from several people.
All the best.
The short answer is, "It depends." Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, "Gee thanks."
On both of my BMWs I've found that one of the two front pad sets had not worn evenly and resulted in the calipers not keeping the entire assembly completely square with the rotational plane of the rotors. As such, by the time the brake service light came on, the aforementioned braking assembly had managed to damage the rotor to the point where I didn't even try to have it "turned". The fact is that at $38.00 per rotor for your car, I'm not sure that I would even bother with the hassle of taking a set of old rotors to a machine shop for milling, I'd simply toss them and buy a new set. Of course, if you are paying someone else to do the job, then most likely they are marking up the new rotors to the point where turning them might seem like a better option.
Confused yet? Try this; if your are doing the job yourself (reasonably simple job), then buy new parts for a total of about $140 (assuming that you need a new sensor, new pads and two new rotors) and toss the old ones, however, if you are having your dealership (likely since a new set of brakes in included in your "free" maintenance) or a shop do the job, just rely on what they recommend.
Best Regards,
Shipo
my free maintenance already expired (mine is 2002). i am still upset about my under usage of the free program - just 1 oil/filter change, that's all! i don't drive many miles so i didn't qualify for the 2nd oil change by the time my program was expiring. (i only know after the fact that i could request the service anyway if it had been more than 1 year since the last service
got a quote over the phone from STS. $662.40 to replace all rotors/pads and sensor.
does changing the brakes as easy as following instructions? if so, is there a recommended link?
Thanks!
Here is a writeup of the steps...
Tools Needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
7mm Allen Wrench
Tools included in your trunk.
Bungee cord or anything you can use to support the brake caliper after unbolting it
Gloves (optional, but highly recommended!)
Estimated time: 1.5 hours
1. These instructions are for the driver's side front rotor. The others' are easier to replace.
2. Open your hood and loosen the brake fluid cap. Do not leave it open as brake fluid may spill out.
3. Loosen the lug bolts on the wheel.
4. Jack up the car and use a jack stand to support the car. Take the wheel off to expose the brake rotor.
5. You will need to remove the clip holding on the outer brake pad. Use a screwdriver and pry it off.
5a. There is a small allen nut holding the rotor on the hub. You will need to remove this to get the rotor off.
6. After removing the clip, look behind the calipers. There will be black caps as illustrated in this image. These caps can be easily removed with your hands.
7. After removing the caps, (2) 7mm hex bolts will be exposed. Use the 7mm allen wrench to remove these.
8. Wiggle the brake caliper to get it off the rotor. Do not force it. After it has come off the rotor, use the bungee cord to support it or you can rest it on something. This is to prevent putting weight on the brake wires and brake pad sensor.
9. To remove this sensor, use a thin flat head screw driver and pry it out of the socket. Avoid puncturing the line the sensor is attached to.
10. Do not lose this clip. The clip will be reused on your new brake pads to hold the sensor.
11. Take the old pad off and reuse the clip on the new pad. Pop the sensor back in and pop the new brake pads in.
12. Clip the caliper back on the rotor.
13. Put the spring clip back on the caliper.
14. Put the 7mm hex bolts back on and tighten them. Put the caps back on and you're done.
15. The sensors only reside on the driver's side front and passenger side rear. The other rotors do not have the sensors so you can skip steps 8 through 10 for the other two calipers. Remember to tighten the brake fluid cap.
-Paul
If you do a search for E46, it should show you the site I got it from...
-Paul
TIA.
I bought PBR/Axxis brake pads on line because I wanted less brake dust.
I got the pads from http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm. I also did a brake bleed when I was done.
-Paul
Simply doing the maintenance does nothing to reset the lights.
-Paul
To reset the Service Indicator, please refer to Post #24796 in the BMW 2005 and Earlier forum.
For the Brake Indicator:
Couple of things you can do:
The Bentley repair manual says... page 340-8
When replacing pads and sensors, turn the ignition key on (car not running) and leave on for approx. 2 minutes. This will reset the brake lining indicator lamp.
Make sure you have installed a new sensor though.
If that doesn't do it...
The light will eventually go off, but try this simple procedure. Turn the key to the on position (right before start position, all dash lights lit). Wait about 3 minutes. Cycle the key off and then start car. I know this works when you get your first chance, but not sure if it works after cycling key a few times. This is a very annoying occurance and not well documented any where. Good luck.
Another way...
If for some reason leaving the key on, engine off for about
1 minute does not work. Try a cluster reset, test #21 and it would reset all the inputs for the cluster like outside temp, clock and brake pad sensor etc. If light is on after reset, double check condition of both brake sensors and connections.
I did both of them - let it sit 30 sec version, then did the other one. My light went out - and I had no special tool. I also put a blast of WD-40 in the contact area where the sensor plugs back in to the electrical - to make sure everything was good.