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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Consider it done assuming I could get it to you. Here's a question for you...are you anywhere that it snows and drive your bmw? I've heard Blizzaks are the way to go, just wanted to see what you thought? I've got Michelin Sport Tires on there now - 18" Low Profile...obviously a no no in the snow snow! Figured I'd drop down to a 17" or even a 16" with the Blizzaks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ummm, well I currently live in New Hampshire, and over the last three winters we've had more snow than the twelve winters combined that I spent in Chicago, so yeah, I guess you could say that I drove my BMW in some snow. ;-)

    My understanding is that most folks in the know recommend Blizzaks for the leading/bleeding edge in traction. That being said, I opted for Michelin Arctic-Alpin tires (since replaced by the even more capable Michelin X-Ice) because their traction was nearly as good but were much quieter on dry roads where I spend a lot of time.

    Regarding the size for your car, the general rule of thumb is the go with the smallest wheel size and a relatively narrow tire for your winter tires. For my 530i SP I simply bought winter tires in the same size as the non-SP car had as standard equipment. For your 2003 330i I'd be inclined to do the same and get a set of 205/55 R16s.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mtomeo1mtomeo1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks! I will try both suggestions.
  • david57david57 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased my BMW 323 Ci new from the dealer. It now has 58,000 miles. The radiator indicator light went on due to a slow leak from the thermostat connection. When I added radiator fluid I found oil in the water. I had to replace the thermostat and a cracked cylinder head (this is how the oil got into the radiator) at a cost of $5,500. I never drive the car hard and it has never overheated. Has anyone else experienced this? Where is the quality in this finely engineered car?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Playing Devil's advocate for a moment...

    In my experience, a cracked head is indicative of an engine that has been overheated. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a cylinder head cracking for any other reason.

    You mentioned that your radiator had a "slow leak". Okay, so why wasn't said leak fixed when you first noticed it? Leaking coolant is bad. Period, full stop, the end. It is going to be very difficult for you to convince most folks (much less your dealer) that your car was never overheated, especially with the evidence left behind by your thermostat leak.

    Regarding your "radiator indicator light" going on. What triggered that light, the coolant level in the radiator or the temperature of the engine/coolant?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    LOL! I'll be the devil's devil's advocate and say that if it's a BMW, I have indeed heard of cracked heads without serious overheating...not on the model noted, but on earlier model cars. So while I have no knowledge what's going on with a 323, I do believe that heads can crack from engineering or casting defects.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, maybe I should have said cracks occuring at 53,000 miles. I'm having a very difficult time believing that that engine wasn't overheated.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say, hard to say...some engines are very sensitive to overheating and can't stand two minutes in the RED, others seems to be able to recover nicely.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    No doubt. An old hunk of Detroit iron could usually withstand considerable overheating. An engine comprised of an aluminium block and iron head will be less resistant, and a fully alumnium engine will be even less so.

    Regarding the 323Ci in question, my guess is that it's probably a 2000 model year, which IIRC had at least an alumnium block and possibly cylinder head as well. Yes, no?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Ponytrekker:

    Let me tell you a semi-short very interesting story. In 2002, I bought a 02 Toyota Avalon cash. I got tossed about between the dealerships and the corporation, from a symptom (steering wheel vibration/car shimmy at high speeds. I tried tires, wheels,rotors, alignment, and shocks changes without any relief. By that time, the car was off of warranty. Luckily, one of my patients if a light wheeled vehicle mechanic, who drove the car with me, and agree with me, that it must be the axle or inner CV joint. He took it apart, replaced both axles, and what do you know, the car runs smooth and true in speeds exceeding 70MPH. I still own the car and acutally like it, with a bench seat, and sport TokicoHP shocks, that control the ride much better. I also tow with it. This was a major part that was cheap, further exacerbated by a corporation at the local and national level that could not car less.

    Last month,(second car) I bought a 04 325ci Sports Susp from another soldier with 15K on it. No problems with front end shimmy at high speeds. While I am sure there will be issues as the car grows older, my experience with Toyota was not impressive. The BMW seems to have less initial defects than my Toyota did.

    Perhaps, my misfortune is unique, but for the present time, my Avalon, which now runs well at 75K, had more defects including that above and continual rear brake issues than any other car I have owned.

    abfisch
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,514
    One caveat about 16" wheels on a 330i... Most won't fit over the brakes.. Tirerack used to have one brand of aftermarket 16" wheel that fit, but they were out of them, last I checked...

    If you go with 17 X 7, you can go with 205/50-17... which is the stock size on a non-sport package 330i, or, if you have 17 X 7.5 or 17 X 8 wheels, you can fit 225/45-17..

    I've ordered 205/50-17 for my 330... hopefully, they'll be here soon, as we had snowflakes today...

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The M30 "Big" sixes used from 1968 to the mid 90s would usually crack or blow a head gasket if they were overheated more than once. The thermal reactors used in the 70's would also hasten the demise of the aluminum head. That said,I know the PO of my wife's 528iA pegged the temp gauge at about 25K when the thermostat stuck shut. At 128K the car is still going strong. While I suppose anything is possible, BMW head gasket failures on newer Bimmers are almost unheard of- unless the car has been run VERY hot. Period.
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    I have the sport package and just order the 205/55 R16s Blizzaks with the recommended italia alloy rims that were recommended by tire rack...hopefully they'll fit...and get here soon...we had snowflakes today too!!

    Quick question, would either of you consider going with an all season high performance tire mounted on the 18" rims instead of switching between the Michelin Pilot Sports and the Blizzaks? For the winter. I know that Blizzaks would work best, but thought I would throw it out there.

    On a separate note, any of you suggest the extended warranty?

    Shipo - Thanks for your continued help...and you too kyfdx!
  • chef_jmrchef_jmr Member Posts: 41
    I've done some searching to find out what I should expect in maintenance/problems on a 2001 330Ci with 70,000 miles...

    Quick background: I've been looking at Porsche 911s but, since I haven't got to that point financially and need a second car now, I've decided to purchase my close friend's Bimmer for $15,000 (I think it's a great deal). It has a "Limited Sports Package" which looks like a bunch of extra fairings and stiffer suspension... Auto tranny.

    What are your thoughts regarding the mileage/dependability factor? Price? What's up with that package? Has anyone heard of it?

    I drive mostly around the city, but like a tight ride. I appreciate any comments!

    Cheers,
    Jeff
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    kyfdx:

    Please let us know how the car performs in the snow with the change in tire size and winter tires. I am still debating this issue as our BMW is a third car.

    Thanks.

    abfisch
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Sounds like an excellent price. I would still research the VIN. Are the tires in decent shape??

    abfisch
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I have an '01 330Ci with ~90K miles. It was in the shop yesterday to have a control-arm/tie-rod replaced (shot bushings). While it's a pretty big chunk of change, it's the first time I have put money into the car, not counting maintenance and wear items.

    I would verify with your friend (or better yet, service records) that all scheduled service has been done. In addition, if the tranny and diff oils haven't been changed, replacing them with some good synthetic (red line, mobile 1) would not be a bad idea.

    FWIW, my normal driving is 80% highway and 20% farm/country roads and almost no city driving. The extra stress of stop and go type driving could adversly affect reliability.

    Good luck!
  • chef_jmrchef_jmr Member Posts: 41
    The VIN should be clear since I've known the owner longer than he's owned the car... I am going to run a CARFAX (I have a subscription) to check on recalls.

    As for the tires, I am assuming that if they have not been replaced in the last 30k miles, it'll be a cost I can absorb.

    The control arms sound sketchy... I read your posts on the cost, and I don't like the sounds of it. He just had a major service completed a month ago, and I know he followed the service schedule of BMW. But he's no car-guy, hence the price, and don't expect that he ever went beyond the usual scheduled items...

    I will consider taking care of the tranny and diff fluids if there is no record of that being taken care of, also...

    Thanks for the replies. I think this is a great deal. I just don't want to pick up this car, and sink too much money into it (the same money I've been putting aside for my Porsche). While I could have waited another half-year and picked up a used '05 911, the need is now, and the decision has been made.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    The VIN should be clear since I've known the owner longer than he's owned the car... I am going to run a CARFAX (I have a subscription) to check on recalls.

    Try calling your local BMW Center and asking them to look up the VIN in their system to see if there are any outstanding recalls... I'd personally trust their system more than CarFax.
  • chef_jmrchef_jmr Member Posts: 41
    Good advice. This control arm issue is new to me. How does someone know the control arms need replacing? Shocks, brakes, tires, I can deal with, but control arms? Shouldn't bushings last? Can't we replace the bushings with polyurethane or something that last longer than rubber?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Unless your new 3er is going to be a dedicated track car I WOULD NOT use polyurethane bushings. More than one BMW has been transformed into a rough riding, ill-handling pig thanks to "improvements" made by a clueless owner. Attend a few BMW CCA drivers schools and learn to extract all of the performance from your stock 3er. Only then should you proceed to modify the car. As for the control arms, they really aren't any big deal; a good indie BMW tech should be able to evaluate the need for replacement.
  • cargal2cargal2 Member Posts: 36
    Hi all and kfdx.... I have an issue with the little red wagon (325 xit with sports package). Several weeks ago, the OEM Continental rear left tire came down with a flat. Had to move the car out of the road. Tire was changed to the donut. Next day fell on a Sunday. Have not really liked the Continentals 205/50/17 (I believe), and read a number of people complaining about noise, handling, etc.

    Only store open was a Firestone on Sunday. Was told that I could get away with Bridgestone Potenza 750, if I bought two tires and could switch the Contis to the front. Had one good one taken off, figuring I could turn it into a full-size spare. Afterwards, car handled much much better than it ever had, until about two weeks later, or one week ago. I started developing a wobble, or vibration somewhere on the passenger side. I could feel it in the wheel. Could also feel/ hear one of the tires rubbing somewhere when I turned a corner sharp, or did a -u turn. At first I thought I had a flat. Went to several places, had the pressures checked, they were off, but fixable. After I would drive for a little while, park to run an errand, and drive off, problem started again.

    Spent the past week back and forth to Firestone for hours at a time. Turns out they don't know or understand too much about BMW awd with the sports package, thought BMW only made rear-wheel drive (I'll leave it for others to wonder, too).

    Finally, stopped at a different Firestone who looked at the situation. Was told that an AWD car should never have sets of tires with a completely different tread, even if one set is in the back and the other is in front. Was told that they needed to come off immediately, and did I want to buy four new tiress??????? He called the other store, until they agreed to give me a complete refund.

    Before I went back today, I stopped at several tire places. I also looked at the reviews on Tirerack. This size is very tough to get. Two dealers complained that almost everything was gone by now, or was about to disappear in anticipation of the worse(er) weather.

    The choices I could possibly get tomorrow would be the all-season Nokian (a new company from what I heard), supposedly able to be used year round, but over $200 per tire; Kumho (maybe.... inexpensive but Tire Rack reviewers have give it good marks).

    I was thinking I'm sick and more fearful of the bad winter roads pocked with tons of potholes in the NY Metropolitan areaa (at least, last year). Thought maybe I should weigh going with four 16" snow-shoes down a size with steel rims to protect the original rims, and car.

    The store had Viking Tech; the Nokian snows, and one other maybe. I would have to go find my own steel rims at a BMW dealer for $96, or order them through Auto Racing, or something like that...... I also asked about Blizzaks but they're expensive.

    Another store told me I could go with the 17" Blizzaks on my original rims without downgrading, and use them all year round. I think they wanted over $176 per tire.

    A nearby BMW dealer confessed they had winter tire packages, one a Conti with a steel rim for about $220, and a Michelin with a steel rim for around the same. I thought that sounded cheaper than my other alternatives but really hard to believe there weren't other hidden costs involved.

    When I drove after my research efforts to the Firestone to take off the Bridgestone tires, put back my leftover conti, and a donut, I soon learned that the techs didn't put the donut back in the right place under the wagon's fake floor, and didn't put over it the extra Conti tire. I was told to go home to look for it, but I have, they closed, and it's nowhere to be seen.

    I've been told several times over the last two days, I better get the Bridgestone off, and they can damage the car, transmission, or ruin rims, the vibration, or wobbling, despite a temporary rebalancing tonight has gotten thousands of times worse. I still haven't figured out what this possibly is, save for maybe a slow leak, or a shifted belt.

    Last week at the beginning of my adventure, I stopped at a different BMW dealer to check the pressures and tires, and they told me nothing was wrong.... So, we can't really say BMW techs at the dealerships are all that knowledgable either.

    You guys are usually very helpful. I'm very lost, and would value your input. Also such a discussion could be of real help to others who will be facing a similar problem.

    All I want is a tire that won't be ruined, quiet, and good handling. I'm no speed demon, but would like to see this car handle a little the way it's supposed to, unlike a really sick dog. I also am on a budget by this point in the tyre game.

    The conti's weren't ever very precise in handling, and driving in them even with good treadwear left caused the car to handle pretty sloppy.....

    Lastly, can anyone explain the term, "staggered" wheels on a car to me? ;}

    Many thanks....

    Cargal :sick: :lemon:
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    "The control arms sound sketchy... I read your posts on the cost, and I don't like the sounds of it."

    A good indie would, I'm sure, do it for much less than I paid. They might even press in new bushings rather than replace the part (div, you know?)

    Unfortunately, the only place I'm aware of in my area that specializes in European cars is about 30 miles away. It's my understanding that it's just two guys and they tend to have unscheduled backlogs so the car could be tied up for more days than I could do without it.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,514
    First... If you have tires that are unevenly worn.. in an AWD vehicle, you need to get them replaced ASAP... and, the fact that they are mismatched brands is worse...

    2) You probably aren't going to get your old Conti tire back... Did you get your donut tire back? If not, go back to the Firestone store and raise holy heck.. you need that for a spare...

    3) The winter tires on steel wheels seem like a good idea, but that is $220 per wheel/tire... or $880 altogether... Not a bad price though, if that is the total.. If you do that, you'll still need to buy a good set of tires in the spring. I like this scenario the best, though it isn't the cheapest..

    4) You can put winter tires on your 17" sport wheels, but they are definitely pricy... I just ordered a set of Goodyear Ultra-Grip GW-3 winter tires.. 205/50-17... My tire dealer's total price, mounted and balanced and including sales tax is around $650... that doesn't include wheels.. just tires.. If you do this, you'll still have to buy new tires in the spring.. and put them back on the same wheels...

    Moral of the story: Find people you trust to work on your BMW... that have experience with your type of car.. If you can't find that, stick with the dealer.. They may not know a lot, but what they have is designed to work on your car..

    Come back in the spring for all-season or summer tire recommendations..

    Hope this helps,
    kyfdx
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  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    kyfdx is dead right; I'd only add that Nokian is a well respected manufacturer of snow tires. Their WR is an all-season tire which also carries the "snowflake on the mountain" severe service winter rating. I think it should make an excellent winter tire, although on a sports package car I'd prefer more aggressive summer rubber.
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    I also agree with kyfdx....I have just bought a 330ci with the sports package and 18" rims with the OEM Michelin Sport tires..and boy, do they suck in the snow. I also contemplated (with kyfdx and spiro's help on here) getting an all season tire on the existing rims and that way not have to keep switching every spring. However, I also know that I'd rather feel as good as possible with a rear wheel drive car in the snow, and the Blizzaks were the choice for me. So, I got a new set of wheels with the Blizzaks and it ran me just over a grand. Sure, I'll have the inconvenience of having to switch them out in the spring, but then again, I'd rather do that then wonder when I'm going to spin out and/or get stuck.

    I've asked a lot of people about this as well, and I'm sure the others in the forum can back me up, but it sounds like your BEST bet is to go with another set of winter tires. If that's not feasible, I would recommend going with an all season, but either way you are probably going to have to get them on all 4.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,514
    I have an '05 3-series with BMW Assist and Bluetooth.. Today, I acquired a new cellphone (Moto RAZR) for my wife that has bluetooth capabilities... I got it to sync up with the car, download the phone book, etc..

    I can make calls using the steering wheel buttons.. scroll through the phone book, etc.. But, I'm having trouble with the voice recognition.. You hold the button down for three seconds, and it hooks up, but everytime I say anything, I get, "Sorry?".. and, then it disconnects..

    Is the voice recognition phone-dependent? Or, do I just not know what I'm doing? (As if I didn't know the answer to that).

    Any help would be appreciated. But, please don't tell me to read the manual...lol.

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • skobolaskobola Member Posts: 207
    Kyfdx, the voice recognition on my cellular phone is highly depended on the amount of surrounding noise. When in a noisy environment, I have then to speak louder. Which makes me to suspect that your problem could be because the microphone is near the rearview mirror on the passenger's side, and as such, you may be too far, and thus too unrecognizable to the phone to de-code what you are saying. I know that some people have exchanged the positions of the microphone and the moonroof opener in order to get the mic closer to the driver.
    However, before you start fiddling with the mic and other components, I would go to the BMW dealer's service and ask them to make the voice recognition work. Because, in addition to the above, it could be that your Razr's software needs to be upgraded, and a number of other things that are in the Bluetooth connectivity game...
    Good luck.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,514
    So.. the voice recognition works through the phone? And, I'm just using the car's microphone? The phone did pretty well with everything else (I really did read the manual), so hopefully, it is something simple.

    But, I don't think it is the microphone position.. My microphone is on top of the steering wheel column.. and, I most definitely was not talking with my mouth full...lol.

    My dealer has an orientation session once per month for new owners (wine/cheese,etc).. I'm going next week.. They are supposed to be able to tell you how to work everything.. I guess we'll find out..

    Thanks,
    kyfdx

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  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Here's my update on the problem few seem to be having. I took my dealers advice and filled up my tank Friday after work with mid-grade 89 octane rather than the premium gas I usually use. Over the weekend and this morning I had 3 flawless first starts, with no noticeable change in performance. I'll fill up the next time with 89 again, then change back to premium as per my dealers recommendations. Hopefully the problem does not recur. If it does I'll be back! Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem in the future. -Drddo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The basic rule of thumb is that you need to create your voice entries with the same microphone that you plan on using said entries with. If you record nice clean entries whilst speaking directly into the Razr, said recordings will differ from what is being spoken through the car's microphone and as such won't be understood.

    The same thing applies for those of us (me) who use BlueTooth headsets.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    I've been contemplating putting some snow tires on my 325xi for the last few weeks. I live in the snow belt of northern Michigan and commute 100 miles round trip through the heart of it. We average 120+ inches of snow a year. I have 16 inch all weathers on currently, which were not too bad last year, but it was a relatively mild winter. I'm wondering if snow tires might change my winter driving experience from not bad to great. Also, if I get the tires I'm not sure if I would want to buy new wheels as well, or just change the tires over. I'm looking at putting on the Michelin x-ice, and as they're predicting 8-15 inches today, I'm thinking of sooner than later! Any input would be appreciated. -Drddo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    During the winters of 1999-2002 I drove a 1999 328i shod with Michelin All-Season tires mounted on 16" rims, kinda sorta just like what you are driving around on. The experience was a very tepid "not bad". In December of 2002 I put a set of Michelin Arctic-Alpin tires (since replaced by the X-Ice) on my (then) new 530i, and the difference was indeed "great". FWIW, I live in southern New Hampshire (where we've averaged just over 100" of snow over the last three years), however, I grew up in Michigan and know well of the area of which you speak. Oddly enough, the roads around here remind me very much of just about any rural road north of say Bay City, and even more of the roads around say Atlanta.

    There is little doubt in my mind that if you switch to a set of X-Ice tires (and do yourself a favor and buy new wheels too), your driving experience will indeed go from "not bad" to "great".

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I believe the voice dial for entries like "Johnny" that you have voice recording stored for on your Razr is NOT the same as a "Johnny" entry you can make and store in the BMW itself.

    BMW's voice recognition lets you program numbers for several entries (not sure of the number) and these recordings are not the same as the ones that may be in the phone.

    I've gone through 3 Razr phones and to avoid losing numbers, I store them on the SIM card, which cannot allow voice tags to be associated with them. I'd use the BMW voice recogntion and store the tags in the car.

    Bluetooth headsets will use the directory and voice tags on the phone itself.

    BMW's can read the directory and dial from it, but you CAN do voice tags that are only used in the car.

    Of course, I may be TOTALLY off with this. :)

    -Paul
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I would vouch for what shipo said in his response to you.
    Getting an extra set of wheels is actually economically making sense as you'll save the expense of remounting and rebalancing twice a year. In three years you'll have come out even. On top of that you save the wear and tear of your BMW alloy wheels.
    I got a set of alloy wheel/tires for my 02 xiT from Tirerack (Sport Edition/Dunlop winter sport 03) for a total of $807. You may save additional $80 with X-ice tires in the package. Money well spent IMO.
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Thanks for the input Shipo. I drive from Petoskey to Gaylord, so you know the roads I'm dealing with. What's the bonus with the new wheels too? Easier and more cost effective in the long run? If so, is steel the best way to go, or a cheap set of alloys? I know I'll get a lot of grief from my wife if I get a new set of black steel rims for our Bimmer. She may not mind as much if the performance is that noticeable and she takes it out on a bad day.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yup, kind of the same roads, I've driven between West Branch and Cadillac any number of times when it looked like I was going into hyperspace (caused by heavy snow in the headlights) through the windshield. ;-)

    As for the new wheels, there are a number of issues, chief among them is cost. Given that the cost of mounting and balancing is anywhere from $15 to $30 depending upon who does it, you will spend anywhere from $120 to $240 per year just for those charges alone. After a couple of years that starts to make a new set of even alloy wheels look cheap. Then there is the potential damage to the bead of the tires themselves. I've heard anecdotal evidence that suggests that tires are not meant to be mounted more than a couple of times and that any more than that and "hard to find and impossible to fix" slow leaks start to occur. Others have mentioned that exposing your OEM rims to the rigors of winter driving is not exactly a recipe for a long cosmetic (or worse in the case of a pot hole or frost heave) life of those rims.

    Regarding whether to get steel wheels or alloys, errr, that's a difficult one to answer. For my 530i, there were no steel wheels available, making for an easy answer. For my Mother-In-Law's Toyota Corolla, which had the option of either, the answer was also easy, steel all the way. For your "xi", hmmmm, I'm thinking that I'd have to ponder long and hard as to which way to go. Hubcaps on a 325xi? :P

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    To answer your final question, "stagger" means having different size tires front to back (or side to side!), and is something you might want to have in NASCAR racing, but never on an AWD vehicle. What happens is that, if the front and rear tires are different diameter due to uneven wear or being a different brand or basic size, then at a given speed your front and rear wheels are turning at slightly different rates.

    On a FWD or RWD this is no big deal, but an AWD system usually has some sort of center "differential" that controls the power distribution. The different rotation of the front and rear can confuse this device as though the tires are slipping, and it might start doing things to try to compensate, such as changing the power distribution. In fact, the source of the noise or vibration that you are feeling could be due to the AWD system cycling back and forth as it tries to get your wheels turning at the same rate.

    So the rule for AWD is to always start with new tires at all four corners, same brand, same size, same tread. That way they should be very close to the same diameter throughout their useful life.
  • david57david57 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the analysis about my cracked cylinder head. The light that went on was the one to indicate that the coolant level in the radiator was low. My radiator leak could only be detected by pressure testing the radiator. My car has a radiator temperature gauge never showed the water temp as being hot, the needle on the gauge was always at the mid point. The disassembled engine showed no evidence of the engine being overheated. It seems to me that there was a defect in the cylinder head casting. David57
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Thanks Shipo and rhmass. I'll give my local shop a call and see what we can put together. I figured I would after my long drive in this morning, but your input surely helps. :) -Drddo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, a defect in the casting? That seems a bit rare. Having said that, back in the late 1980s I happened to be home visiting my folks when I heard my Mom (or rather her Eldorado) pull into the driveway. My ear detected a mild bearing knock, which I guessed to be a rod bearing as the car had about 97,000 on the clock.

    When she took it in to have the noise examined, the dealership pulled the oil pan and noticed that the engine was missing one of its to bolts on the rear main bearing cap, and that the portion of the casting in the engine skirt that held the threads was missing as well. Given the miles on the engine, there was no way that Cadillac was going to replace the engine, however, her car was spotless and she really liked it, so in went a brand new engine, on her nickel. :-( Since she had many contacts in the "Autos" (she was first a sales person selling midrange computer systems in Detroit, then a Branch Manager, and then a Region Manager), she did a little investigation and found out that her engine was immediately packaged up and shipped to one of GM's metallurgy labs for analysis. Turns out that the crack in the casting was determined to have been there from the start. Did they offer to pay for her new mill? Nope.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Before you call them you might check TireRack.com to see what kind of package they can offer you. I've bought winter wheel/tire sets from them twice now and nobody around has been able to even come close to the price that TireRack offered.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Just when I thought I was done I have another question! I was looking at Tirerack as you suggested, Shipo, and the X-ice is priced about $260 less/ set than my quote from the local guy. He told me his source for rims was as good as mine, being Tirerack or the dealer. I currently have 205/55 16, but the only rim I can find on Tirerack is 225/55 16. Would I be giving up a bit of traction with the extra width of the 225's? I hesitate to call the dealer, assuming the price for rims would be MUCH higher than the $135/wheel at Tirerack. -Drddo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I currently have 205/55 16, but the only rim I can find on Tirerack is 225/55 16."

    Ummm, are you talking rims or tires here? When you say "2xx/xx 16" you are referring to tire sizes. Wheel sizes are depicted more like 16x7.5 (which IIRC is what you have on your car). Having said that, I just checked TireRack and I found that they do in fact have a 205/55 R16 & 16x7.5 alloy wheel package (Mille Miglia MM11-3) with Michelin X-Ice package available for your car for $940 plus shipping.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    My bad, the wheels are 16x7.5, and I see what you are talking about. The notation on the left side of the screen states that the recommended tire size for those wheels, and the other 5 16" wheels for that matter, are 225/55 16. Can I put a smaller tire on that wheel, or so I need to stick with the recommended 225/55's? I hear the thinner the tire the better for winter traction. -Drddo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Those wheels are just fine, in fact, your car already has the 16x7.5 wheels with the 205/55 R16s mounted on them. IIRC, TireRack publishes the tire size that is the middle of the size range that fits for any given wheel. From there you can mount tires that are roughly 20mm (about 8/10") wider or narrower.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Great! Thanks for all your help today Shipo. I put a call in to the dealer, just for kicks. They ball parked between $1200 and $1300 for everything, but need to call me back with a firm number. I'll likely go with Tirerack, as you said the price is far better than other places I've been looking. Here's to looking forward to some great winter weather! -Drddo
  • drddodrddo Member Posts: 33
    Interesting info to pass along... My dealer called back and they are quoting me $10.92 OTD price over the cost for the same set up as Tirerack. Plus they will store my summer tires for me. I never would have thought the dealer would be anywhere near the same ball park! -Drddo
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,514
    Thanks.. this is all starting to sink into my thick head....

    I'm not positive about the ability to put voice tags on the directory in the BMW, but I'm going to find out.. That sounds like the best way.. I hope that will work..

    Of course, my first problem.... is I've never put voice tags on the phonebook entries in the phone itself.. So, that would be the first step.. of course, it makes me sad that I can't put them on the SIM card, as that is where all of the entries reside..

    Any problem with battery life on the RAZR? We've only had it two days, but the battery is going dead in a matter of hours.. I'm guessing it is because we are leaving bluetooth on?

    regards,
    kyfdx
    Techno-cro-magnon

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  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Any problem with the battery?

    Yup, the BlueTooth drains the battery fast. As such, I've bought both the car charger and the USB charger for my Razr. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
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