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My understanding is that most folks in the know recommend Blizzaks for the leading/bleeding edge in traction. That being said, I opted for Michelin Arctic-Alpin tires (since replaced by the even more capable Michelin X-Ice) because their traction was nearly as good but were much quieter on dry roads where I spend a lot of time.
Regarding the size for your car, the general rule of thumb is the go with the smallest wheel size and a relatively narrow tire for your winter tires. For my 530i SP I simply bought winter tires in the same size as the non-SP car had as standard equipment. For your 2003 330i I'd be inclined to do the same and get a set of 205/55 R16s.
Best Regards,
Shipo
In my experience, a cracked head is indicative of an engine that has been overheated. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a cylinder head cracking for any other reason.
You mentioned that your radiator had a "slow leak". Okay, so why wasn't said leak fixed when you first noticed it? Leaking coolant is bad. Period, full stop, the end. It is going to be very difficult for you to convince most folks (much less your dealer) that your car was never overheated, especially with the evidence left behind by your thermostat leak.
Regarding your "radiator indicator light" going on. What triggered that light, the coolant level in the radiator or the temperature of the engine/coolant?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Regarding the 323Ci in question, my guess is that it's probably a 2000 model year, which IIRC had at least an alumnium block and possibly cylinder head as well. Yes, no?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Let me tell you a semi-short very interesting story. In 2002, I bought a 02 Toyota Avalon cash. I got tossed about between the dealerships and the corporation, from a symptom (steering wheel vibration/car shimmy at high speeds. I tried tires, wheels,rotors, alignment, and shocks changes without any relief. By that time, the car was off of warranty. Luckily, one of my patients if a light wheeled vehicle mechanic, who drove the car with me, and agree with me, that it must be the axle or inner CV joint. He took it apart, replaced both axles, and what do you know, the car runs smooth and true in speeds exceeding 70MPH. I still own the car and acutally like it, with a bench seat, and sport TokicoHP shocks, that control the ride much better. I also tow with it. This was a major part that was cheap, further exacerbated by a corporation at the local and national level that could not car less.
Last month,(second car) I bought a 04 325ci Sports Susp from another soldier with 15K on it. No problems with front end shimmy at high speeds. While I am sure there will be issues as the car grows older, my experience with Toyota was not impressive. The BMW seems to have less initial defects than my Toyota did.
Perhaps, my misfortune is unique, but for the present time, my Avalon, which now runs well at 75K, had more defects including that above and continual rear brake issues than any other car I have owned.
abfisch
If you go with 17 X 7, you can go with 205/50-17... which is the stock size on a non-sport package 330i, or, if you have 17 X 7.5 or 17 X 8 wheels, you can fit 225/45-17..
I've ordered 205/50-17 for my 330... hopefully, they'll be here soon, as we had snowflakes today...
regards,
kyfdx
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Quick question, would either of you consider going with an all season high performance tire mounted on the 18" rims instead of switching between the Michelin Pilot Sports and the Blizzaks? For the winter. I know that Blizzaks would work best, but thought I would throw it out there.
On a separate note, any of you suggest the extended warranty?
Shipo - Thanks for your continued help...and you too kyfdx!
Quick background: I've been looking at Porsche 911s but, since I haven't got to that point financially and need a second car now, I've decided to purchase my close friend's Bimmer for $15,000 (I think it's a great deal). It has a "Limited Sports Package" which looks like a bunch of extra fairings and stiffer suspension... Auto tranny.
What are your thoughts regarding the mileage/dependability factor? Price? What's up with that package? Has anyone heard of it?
I drive mostly around the city, but like a tight ride. I appreciate any comments!
Cheers,
Jeff
Please let us know how the car performs in the snow with the change in tire size and winter tires. I am still debating this issue as our BMW is a third car.
Thanks.
abfisch
abfisch
I would verify with your friend (or better yet, service records) that all scheduled service has been done. In addition, if the tranny and diff oils haven't been changed, replacing them with some good synthetic (red line, mobile 1) would not be a bad idea.
FWIW, my normal driving is 80% highway and 20% farm/country roads and almost no city driving. The extra stress of stop and go type driving could adversly affect reliability.
Good luck!
As for the tires, I am assuming that if they have not been replaced in the last 30k miles, it'll be a cost I can absorb.
The control arms sound sketchy... I read your posts on the cost, and I don't like the sounds of it. He just had a major service completed a month ago, and I know he followed the service schedule of BMW. But he's no car-guy, hence the price, and don't expect that he ever went beyond the usual scheduled items...
I will consider taking care of the tranny and diff fluids if there is no record of that being taken care of, also...
Thanks for the replies. I think this is a great deal. I just don't want to pick up this car, and sink too much money into it (the same money I've been putting aside for my Porsche). While I could have waited another half-year and picked up a used '05 911, the need is now, and the decision has been made.
Try calling your local BMW Center and asking them to look up the VIN in their system to see if there are any outstanding recalls... I'd personally trust their system more than CarFax.
Only store open was a Firestone on Sunday. Was told that I could get away with Bridgestone Potenza 750, if I bought two tires and could switch the Contis to the front. Had one good one taken off, figuring I could turn it into a full-size spare. Afterwards, car handled much much better than it ever had, until about two weeks later, or one week ago. I started developing a wobble, or vibration somewhere on the passenger side. I could feel it in the wheel. Could also feel/ hear one of the tires rubbing somewhere when I turned a corner sharp, or did a -u turn. At first I thought I had a flat. Went to several places, had the pressures checked, they were off, but fixable. After I would drive for a little while, park to run an errand, and drive off, problem started again.
Spent the past week back and forth to Firestone for hours at a time. Turns out they don't know or understand too much about BMW awd with the sports package, thought BMW only made rear-wheel drive (I'll leave it for others to wonder, too).
Finally, stopped at a different Firestone who looked at the situation. Was told that an AWD car should never have sets of tires with a completely different tread, even if one set is in the back and the other is in front. Was told that they needed to come off immediately, and did I want to buy four new tiress??????? He called the other store, until they agreed to give me a complete refund.
Before I went back today, I stopped at several tire places. I also looked at the reviews on Tirerack. This size is very tough to get. Two dealers complained that almost everything was gone by now, or was about to disappear in anticipation of the worse(er) weather.
The choices I could possibly get tomorrow would be the all-season Nokian (a new company from what I heard), supposedly able to be used year round, but over $200 per tire; Kumho (maybe.... inexpensive but Tire Rack reviewers have give it good marks).
I was thinking I'm sick and more fearful of the bad winter roads pocked with tons of potholes in the NY Metropolitan areaa (at least, last year). Thought maybe I should weigh going with four 16" snow-shoes down a size with steel rims to protect the original rims, and car.
The store had Viking Tech; the Nokian snows, and one other maybe. I would have to go find my own steel rims at a BMW dealer for $96, or order them through Auto Racing, or something like that...... I also asked about Blizzaks but they're expensive.
Another store told me I could go with the 17" Blizzaks on my original rims without downgrading, and use them all year round. I think they wanted over $176 per tire.
A nearby BMW dealer confessed they had winter tire packages, one a Conti with a steel rim for about $220, and a Michelin with a steel rim for around the same. I thought that sounded cheaper than my other alternatives but really hard to believe there weren't other hidden costs involved.
When I drove after my research efforts to the Firestone to take off the Bridgestone tires, put back my leftover conti, and a donut, I soon learned that the techs didn't put the donut back in the right place under the wagon's fake floor, and didn't put over it the extra Conti tire. I was told to go home to look for it, but I have, they closed, and it's nowhere to be seen.
I've been told several times over the last two days, I better get the Bridgestone off, and they can damage the car, transmission, or ruin rims, the vibration, or wobbling, despite a temporary rebalancing tonight has gotten thousands of times worse. I still haven't figured out what this possibly is, save for maybe a slow leak, or a shifted belt.
Last week at the beginning of my adventure, I stopped at a different BMW dealer to check the pressures and tires, and they told me nothing was wrong.... So, we can't really say BMW techs at the dealerships are all that knowledgable either.
You guys are usually very helpful. I'm very lost, and would value your input. Also such a discussion could be of real help to others who will be facing a similar problem.
All I want is a tire that won't be ruined, quiet, and good handling. I'm no speed demon, but would like to see this car handle a little the way it's supposed to, unlike a really sick dog. I also am on a budget by this point in the tyre game.
The conti's weren't ever very precise in handling, and driving in them even with good treadwear left caused the car to handle pretty sloppy.....
Lastly, can anyone explain the term, "staggered" wheels on a car to me? ;}
Many thanks....
Cargal :sick: :lemon:
A good indie would, I'm sure, do it for much less than I paid. They might even press in new bushings rather than replace the part (div, you know?)
Unfortunately, the only place I'm aware of in my area that specializes in European cars is about 30 miles away. It's my understanding that it's just two guys and they tend to have unscheduled backlogs so the car could be tied up for more days than I could do without it.
2) You probably aren't going to get your old Conti tire back... Did you get your donut tire back? If not, go back to the Firestone store and raise holy heck.. you need that for a spare...
3) The winter tires on steel wheels seem like a good idea, but that is $220 per wheel/tire... or $880 altogether... Not a bad price though, if that is the total.. If you do that, you'll still need to buy a good set of tires in the spring. I like this scenario the best, though it isn't the cheapest..
4) You can put winter tires on your 17" sport wheels, but they are definitely pricy... I just ordered a set of Goodyear Ultra-Grip GW-3 winter tires.. 205/50-17... My tire dealer's total price, mounted and balanced and including sales tax is around $650... that doesn't include wheels.. just tires.. If you do this, you'll still have to buy new tires in the spring.. and put them back on the same wheels...
Moral of the story: Find people you trust to work on your BMW... that have experience with your type of car.. If you can't find that, stick with the dealer.. They may not know a lot, but what they have is designed to work on your car..
Come back in the spring for all-season or summer tire recommendations..
Hope this helps,
kyfdx
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I've asked a lot of people about this as well, and I'm sure the others in the forum can back me up, but it sounds like your BEST bet is to go with another set of winter tires. If that's not feasible, I would recommend going with an all season, but either way you are probably going to have to get them on all 4.
I can make calls using the steering wheel buttons.. scroll through the phone book, etc.. But, I'm having trouble with the voice recognition.. You hold the button down for three seconds, and it hooks up, but everytime I say anything, I get, "Sorry?".. and, then it disconnects..
Is the voice recognition phone-dependent? Or, do I just not know what I'm doing? (As if I didn't know the answer to that).
Any help would be appreciated. But, please don't tell me to read the manual...lol.
regards,
kyfdx
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However, before you start fiddling with the mic and other components, I would go to the BMW dealer's service and ask them to make the voice recognition work. Because, in addition to the above, it could be that your Razr's software needs to be upgraded, and a number of other things that are in the Bluetooth connectivity game...
Good luck.
But, I don't think it is the microphone position.. My microphone is on top of the steering wheel column.. and, I most definitely was not talking with my mouth full...lol.
My dealer has an orientation session once per month for new owners (wine/cheese,etc).. I'm going next week.. They are supposed to be able to tell you how to work everything.. I guess we'll find out..
Thanks,
kyfdx
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The same thing applies for those of us (me) who use BlueTooth headsets.
Best Regards,
Shipo
There is little doubt in my mind that if you switch to a set of X-Ice tires (and do yourself a favor and buy new wheels too), your driving experience will indeed go from "not bad" to "great".
Best Regards,
Shipo
BMW's voice recognition lets you program numbers for several entries (not sure of the number) and these recordings are not the same as the ones that may be in the phone.
I've gone through 3 Razr phones and to avoid losing numbers, I store them on the SIM card, which cannot allow voice tags to be associated with them. I'd use the BMW voice recogntion and store the tags in the car.
Bluetooth headsets will use the directory and voice tags on the phone itself.
BMW's can read the directory and dial from it, but you CAN do voice tags that are only used in the car.
Of course, I may be TOTALLY off with this.
-Paul
Getting an extra set of wheels is actually economically making sense as you'll save the expense of remounting and rebalancing twice a year. In three years you'll have come out even. On top of that you save the wear and tear of your BMW alloy wheels.
I got a set of alloy wheel/tires for my 02 xiT from Tirerack (Sport Edition/Dunlop winter sport 03) for a total of $807. You may save additional $80 with X-ice tires in the package. Money well spent IMO.
As for the new wheels, there are a number of issues, chief among them is cost. Given that the cost of mounting and balancing is anywhere from $15 to $30 depending upon who does it, you will spend anywhere from $120 to $240 per year just for those charges alone. After a couple of years that starts to make a new set of even alloy wheels look cheap. Then there is the potential damage to the bead of the tires themselves. I've heard anecdotal evidence that suggests that tires are not meant to be mounted more than a couple of times and that any more than that and "hard to find and impossible to fix" slow leaks start to occur. Others have mentioned that exposing your OEM rims to the rigors of winter driving is not exactly a recipe for a long cosmetic (or worse in the case of a pot hole or frost heave) life of those rims.
Regarding whether to get steel wheels or alloys, errr, that's a difficult one to answer. For my 530i, there were no steel wheels available, making for an easy answer. For my Mother-In-Law's Toyota Corolla, which had the option of either, the answer was also easy, steel all the way. For your "xi", hmmmm, I'm thinking that I'd have to ponder long and hard as to which way to go. Hubcaps on a 325xi? :P
Best Regards,
Shipo
On a FWD or RWD this is no big deal, but an AWD system usually has some sort of center "differential" that controls the power distribution. The different rotation of the front and rear can confuse this device as though the tires are slipping, and it might start doing things to try to compensate, such as changing the power distribution. In fact, the source of the noise or vibration that you are feeling could be due to the AWD system cycling back and forth as it tries to get your wheels turning at the same rate.
So the rule for AWD is to always start with new tires at all four corners, same brand, same size, same tread. That way they should be very close to the same diameter throughout their useful life.
When she took it in to have the noise examined, the dealership pulled the oil pan and noticed that the engine was missing one of its to bolts on the rear main bearing cap, and that the portion of the casting in the engine skirt that held the threads was missing as well. Given the miles on the engine, there was no way that Cadillac was going to replace the engine, however, her car was spotless and she really liked it, so in went a brand new engine, on her nickel. :-( Since she had many contacts in the "Autos" (she was first a sales person selling midrange computer systems in Detroit, then a Branch Manager, and then a Region Manager), she did a little investigation and found out that her engine was immediately packaged up and shipped to one of GM's metallurgy labs for analysis. Turns out that the crack in the casting was determined to have been there from the start. Did they offer to pay for her new mill? Nope.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Ummm, are you talking rims or tires here? When you say "2xx/xx 16" you are referring to tire sizes. Wheel sizes are depicted more like 16x7.5 (which IIRC is what you have on your car). Having said that, I just checked TireRack and I found that they do in fact have a 205/55 R16 & 16x7.5 alloy wheel package (Mille Miglia MM11-3) with Michelin X-Ice package available for your car for $940 plus shipping.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm not positive about the ability to put voice tags on the directory in the BMW, but I'm going to find out.. That sounds like the best way.. I hope that will work..
Of course, my first problem.... is I've never put voice tags on the phonebook entries in the phone itself.. So, that would be the first step.. of course, it makes me sad that I can't put them on the SIM card, as that is where all of the entries reside..
Any problem with battery life on the RAZR? We've only had it two days, but the battery is going dead in a matter of hours.. I'm guessing it is because we are leaving bluetooth on?
regards,
kyfdx
Techno-cro-magnon
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Yup, the BlueTooth drains the battery fast. As such, I've bought both the car charger and the USB charger for my Razr. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo