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A few (very few) post from time to time regarding high-mileage German lux cars, but it's all anecdotal. You'll never get the 20-30 samples you need for anything real.
I'm with you, OTOH. If you like it and can afford to fix it, buy it. If not. . .
I'm a buy & hold guy myself, and will probably purchase a BMW sometime in the next year or three. It may break. I'll pay to fix it. In 6 - 10 years I'll let you know how it all turned out. It couldn't be any worse, financially, than what I'm dealing with now (miserable resale value).
Good luck.
On the other hand, there have been some regularly-scheduled jobs that have been pricey. Suspension refresh ( shocks / struts / control arms / mounts ) was $1800 at my indie. My clutch + flywheel + tranny mounts was $2000.
I suppose it depends on what you mean by incremental expenses--the car, for me at least has been highly robust, but i expect to throw some money at it now and again. Less than payments, to be sure.
I have a 2000, 323i, 121K kms, Automatic, NOT IN WARRANTY.... and the reverse gear doesnt work anymore.... i have read on the forums that this is a known issue with 3 series... i am just wondering if someone could gimme a guestimate cost of this repair.... especially if someone from Canada...
i heard that the whole transmission DOESNOT need to be replaced.... any comments or helpfull suggestions plz...
appreciate your help
It's probably a bad seat sensor or seat belt buckle.
I am wondering if there is a gadget that can reset the instrument light. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
This is what you want.
Everytime, I go there for a vehicle check or service, I got assigned to a (different) service consultant.
A service consultant does not do customer relationship, so he/she doesn't need to show extra consideration for a customer. Hence, he/she can throw you to a corner seat and tell you to wait for the next shuttle service in 1 hour.
Also, a service consultant is not a technician either. So, if you have any real question about what's wrong with your car, he/she will say:"hey, don't ask me, I'm not a technician." In fact my discussion with several service consultants went through a common path:
1) first, he/she (service consultant) try to explain to me what's wrong or what's not wrong with my car;
2) then, I realize his/her explaination doesn't make logical sense. So, I ask him/she to clarify what is really going on.
3) finally, he/she will say the keyword:"hey, don't ask me, I'm not a technician."
The same trend has happened again and again. I really want to know why the dealer (Irvine-BMW) sent a non-techician to explain technical issues in the first place. The even funnier fact is that I am not allowed to talk with any real technician either.
I'm wondering whether a unique case only true for Irvine-BMW, or a common case in all BMW dealers.
"what is a service consultant?" :confuse:
A 2003 car should be still in warrantee (its mileage is not crazy high). Send the car to a certified repair shop or dealer for a tank replacement then.
I love my BMW 318i, and use it every day to travel 20 miles to work and back with no problems whatsoever. However, every time I go off on a jaunt I end up getting the RAC out. I drove to London 240 miles, stopped at lights and that was it. It cut out and refused to start again. This week I drove to Cornwall 100 miles or so and the same thing happened. The RAC thought it was an electrical fault and eventually got me going, but only to break down again after another 30 miles or so. This time they thought it was a faulty temperature sensor causing it to flood and bypassed it to get me going, but only for the next 30 miles. Finally they lorried me home. Anyone got any ideas as to what is wrong? I can't afford lots of exploratory work at expensive garages.
Just got a '97 318is automatic that is a bit of a slug. It must have been driven in 4th gear all its life. I have a couple questions;
1.- I want to change the exhaust to give a little boost, anyone with an ebay or other link?
2.- Looking for a good BMW parts and accessory shop in the Ft. Lauderdale area (no rip-off merchants please)
3.- Need an owner's manual to decipher all the german symbols on the panel. Couldnt find one on amazon.
many thanks in advance for any help given. L
They all are. A manual transmission is needed to make rapid progress. The M44 1.9 doesn't develop significant power below 3500 rpm.
1.- I want to change the exhaust to give a little boost, anyone with an ebay or other link?
Supersprint makes one of the best cat-backs for the M42/M44 motors, but even then you won't see more than a 2-3 bhp gain- BMW OEM exhausts are very well designed. In all honesty, you'll be very, VERY, lucky to extract more than 5-10 extra bhp from an OBDII M44 with simple bolt-ons. If you want a significant power gain you need to fit a Downing Atlanta supercharger. Or Nitrous.
2.- Looking for a good BMW parts and accessory shop in the Ft. Lauderdale area (no rip-off merchants please)
Can't help you there. I'd look at some of the better mail-order companies such as UUC Motorwerks, Turner Motorsport, and Bavarian Autosport. I've dealt with all three and they are all excellent shops.
3.- Need an owner's manual to decipher all the german symbols on the panel. Couldn't find one on amazon.
Try eBay or else have your local BMW dealer order one.
Several people on another BMW list have had a local muffler shop replace the rear muffler with a Magnaflow.
Just bought a 2003 BMW 325xi and when you start the car and put it in drive and step on the brake (the car is not moving) there is a loud vibration. The vibration is more apparent on the passenger side. We took the car back to the service center and they said it was the engine mounts and they changed them but the problem was still there. Then I took it again and they changed a tie rod, off course the problem was still there. Now they took it to the BMW dealership and told me that they said it's the engine mounts, but they are waiting for a final diagnosis on Monday.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank You
I wanted to ask for wax/leathercare advice. I did a quick search, and there were thousands of confusing products. I am looking for classic stuff that works on BMWs.
1) What wax/polish for the outside of the car
2) what leather care for inside
3) what products to keep break dust off and make rims look nice?
thanks for all help.
Now, what would be involved on a job like this? I know this car uses special BMW edition tools to work on. How do you do the ignition timing on a car like this? What type of BMW tools would I need to crank the #1 cylinder into its proper position? How much would it cost if a mechanic did this for just the labor if I have all the parts?
I was looking for an okay, cheap enough BMW to last me for a while until I go to school and learn how to work on BMWs for real. Should I go for this or just wait and spend 1,500 on a working car that might have higher mileage? Some I've talked to said it would be better for me to spend more money on a newer model. The year of the car doesn't matter too much to me, so long as it has low miles and has been properly taken care of. Besides, when I do go to school, I was going to rip the car apart and redo it any ways. What do you think, should I take it or leave it?
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Use "Premium" fuel at all times for best engine operation, fuel economy, power and cleanlyness. Consider anybody who tells you anything else as having drank too much of the aforementioned hogwash.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have 2006 325xi which makes a popping noise from the rear deck, when going over a bump.It also makes popping noises from the AC.The dealer technician say's that he hear's it ,but since it is intermittant he does not know what to do,as he is only allowed one attempt by BMW to remedy the problem.
Anybody have the same problem?any ideas?
I got into an accident with my 2006 bmw 325i. The driver side front bumper was ripped off with the headlights. The left front wheel was pushed inside. no one was injured though. I need to have the car repaired in an auto body shop. Does anyone have any recommendations for body shops in the Long Island, New York area?
I bought the car from Habberstad BMW. They do have a collision center, http://www.habberstadbmw.com/collision_center.htm. Should I have it done there? Or is it better off to find an independent body shop?
Thanks.
0W
I still didn't buy it and have kept using Premium for all our cars(except chevys ). Does this make any sense? I thought, in general terms, the higher the octane, the cleaner the gas?
I'd call his bluff and ask to see the memo. I'm thinking that he's full of hogwash and then some. Using Premium in an engine that isn't being driven hard will in fact cause more deposits to build up in the combustion chamber, IF you're driving a 1969 440 Magnum Charger and using leaded 100 Octane gasoline. In a modern car with fully dynamic fuel injection, valve timing and ignition timing systems only someone woefully misinformed (and very much in love with their own opinions) would suggest that Premium fuel will do anything other than allow the engine to extract the greatest mixture of power and economy that is possible for that engine.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have a sturdy '92 318i convertible, likely in need of a new top, but that isn't the main issue.
When I close the driver door with the windows up, the rear edge of the driver window "locks" in the front edge of the rear window. Requires some force to open door, and I'm afraid will injure the glass eventually. Solved by closing/opening with the window down a bit 1 - 1.5 cm.
I think the rear window needs some minor adjustment to make it tilt forward less. Problem is, I don't know how... does anyone know how to adjust the front/back tilt on these windows?? I have (many times) taken the rear inner panel off, and can "get at" the mechanism, I just didn't see anything obvious to adjust...
Any help is greatly appreciated.
2005 325i
front windshield now has a 1/4 inch crack, hit by a debris on freeway.
Called a local BMW dealer quoting $354(material)+$180(labor).
An internet quote from www.89glass.com is $307(total).
My comprehensive insurance deductable is $500.
I found several places offering windshield repair service, for example:
http://www.mindconnection.com/library/auto/windshielddings.htm
I think, if it's done correctly, repair may work just fine for my case, and save quite some money.
The crack on my windshield is quite small (less than 1/4 inch), it is fresh, and it's on the lower part of the passenger side not really blocking my view.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It seems pretty good. Although one can still see a shallow trace if you focus your eyes after the repair, it seems to be fairly nice and won't expand in the future.
Also thanks for the reponse from shipo.
The screen either dims and freezes, or goes completely blank, and the system doesn't respond. CD/navDVD do not eject. Bluetooth connection to my phone remains active, but no sound flows through the speakers.
The car still drives fine, and the only control message (accessible by the turn indicator/OBD knob) is SOS malfunction.
The onset of this problem was fairly sudden -- reset happened once, and it came back online, then it happened more frequently and now it's completely dead.
Anyone witnessed a similar thing before, or can take an educated guess at what the issue might be?
Just found my coolant level is at it's minimum (no warning light). The last "low mileage annual service" was 6 month ago. The next one will be another 5~6 months from now.
So, I called the BMW Customer Relation (CR) for advise, because the local dealership have lost all my confidence. The BMW CR told me that I should only purchase BMW brand coolant from its dealer and then add it by myself.
Since I haven't added coolant by myself before, and user manual seems to assume everybody should know how to do it. Is there anything I should be aware when adding coolant?
**I noticed that I have become visiting this forum a lot, lately.
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I got my very first 2006 BMW 325i last winter. What started out as a dream come true quickly became a major pain in the neck.
1) The passenger seatbelt/airbag sign came on about a month into driving the car, which means it's actually disabled.
2) Sometimes, the driver's seatbelt doesn't detect that I DO have my seatbelt on.
3) The engine is not as smooth as I expect a BMW to be (?) -- it trembles often, as if I didn't warm up my car enough.
4) The front passenger side cupholder stopped working -- it won't come out.
5) And just recently, the sunroof completely stopped working.
In addition, the brakes are a little sticky, though I've heard this is common? Also, sometimes, the car feels like the engine "hiccups," as if not enough gas?
I don't abuse my car, although I do drive long distances each weekend.
Please excuse my ranting, but I'm extremely annoyed. It makes me sick to my stomach that I've paid good money for this car when it has so many seemingly unexpected and even ridiculous problems. I know even a BMW is a machine subject to flaws, but COME ON!!! Am I driving a BMW??? I literally did not have the time to take my car in for service, but I'm guessing I have no choice now. I'm totally fed up.
I feel like my car is the only 2006 beamer in the road with probs it shouldn't be having. Has anyone experienced similar issues?
Which is why I advise owners of older BMWs to find a good independent tech who KNOWS AND UNDERSTANDS BMWS!!!
First time, as I was driving I noticed the lights dimming, the radio was going in and out and then after a couple of miles and going up a hill the transmission light, ABS, air bag, Traction Control lights came on as well as the gauges going crazy. I pulled over and when I put it in park the car idled rough. I turned the car off and then after trying to restart it I was unsuccessful.
Those are the classic symptoms of a dying battery.
I had it towed to a repair shop and was told I had a bad transmission. It cost me $2500 to rebuild the transmission. When I picked it up it seemed to be working fine for about 2 weeks.
That guy was an idiot and/or a outright crook.
Then, it happened again, same thing.
I'm not surprised.
In the meantime I had taken it to another local repair shop at the suggestion of the transmission shop, because my check engine light came on and the transmission shop wasn't able to check it. The second shop told me it was an oxygen sensor light. After it stopped for the second time I called the guy who rebuilt my transmission because he told me that was the problem in the first place, but, this time he told me he knew it wasn't the transmission and to call the place I had clear the check engine light which came back on because I didn't get the o2 sensor replaced.
Another incompetent fool; a bad O2 sensor won't cause the problems you experienced.
I had it towed to the second repair shop who at that point found a loose battery ground but said the battery and the alternator checked out fine although when the car first arrived via tow truck the battery was definitely dead. He told me it was being cause now by the lose ground. Satisfied with this, another $200, I left and 3 days later it happened again, luckily in my drive.
$200 to fix a "loose ground"? Another thief.
What is weird is when I turn it off when this happens and starts idling rough I can turn on the acc power and can listen to the radio, etc but when I try to start it, it just ticks. But, let it sit long enough (as short at 45 min to several hours or overnight) it will start again with no problem. It reminds me of a remote control car that you have to recharge when the battery dies except to recharge it I just have to let it sit. We did get the alternator changed about 3 months before it quit the first time and that is when the check engine light came on, after we changed it. I also notice, every time before it happens, the AC will start blowing hot air, the lights will dim (headlights and interior dash lights) and the windows, etc work slowly. Has anyone else had this problem or think of what this could be?
Again, it's probably the battery, though the starter might be getting as well. The likely reason the car won't start when it is hot is because the engine heat increases the resistance of the starter motor windings. Your battery has enough power to start the car when it is cold but not when it is hot.
I am wanting to sell this car but am having trouble putting more money into it since it's 12 years old now. Help!!!!
I'd buy it if it wasn't a slushbox...
Can anyone tell me what the "es" stands for? Does the "e" stand for "economic"? Which is better, an "e" series or an "i" series? Does an "e" series reduce its overall horsepower and top speed for excellent gas mileage or high durability with a more stiffened suspension? Or does the "i" series increase overall performance but doesn't have as good a suspension system as the sport edition? What type of sport upgrades are on this car? More than a 325i?
There are 3 buttons on the center console. One is the hazards, the next is the defroster, and the 3rd is withered away so I can't tell what it does. Does anyone know?
I seen a fog light switch that can add forward and rear fog lights with little modification to an e30. Does this particular year have the wiring where you can remove the tail light caps, add more caps with lights, and have rear fog lights?
Also, the brakes do not work unless the pedal is to the floor and then it is delayed. The system is not leaking brake fluid. Does the system need to be bled or does it need a brake booster?
The engine has a slight rough idle. It seems there is a hose that is sealed, but not connected to the intake manifold on the top right side of the engine. What would this hose do and what does the (sensor?) on the intake manifold do? Is this the air flow meter?
Every few days the battery runs dead. Is there a continuously running BMW equipment that drains the battery if left sitting for several days (locks, alarm, starter kill rechargable flashlight)?
thank you for your input.
It's a good deal- assuming that you can do your own wrenching.
Can anyone tell me what the "es" stands for? Does the "e" stand for "economic"?
The "e" stands for eta- the Greek symbol for efficiency. The BMW eta engines were designed to develop good torque and fuel economy at low rpms. The 4700 rpm redline is extremely low for a BMW spark ignition engine.
Which is better, an "e" series or an "i" series?
The e and i are engine -not series- designations. That said, most BMW enthusiasts prefer the "i" engine. It has 47 more bhp and revs to 6400 rpm. On a more positive note, the power and torque curves of the eta motor are well suited to an automatic transmission. Either motor needs a timing belt change at no less than 60K intervals. Change the belt tensioner and water pump while you are at it.
What type of sport upgrades are on this car? More than a 325i?
The 325es suspension features M-Technic spoilers, shorter/stiffer springs, and Bilstein dampers. Inside you get BMW sport seats and a M-Technic steering wheel. A vanilla 325i will still be faster due to the large hp difference. Pick of the E30 litter is the 325is, which has even stiffer springs and dampers as well as the more enthusiastic 168 hp engine.
There are 3 buttons on the center console. One is the hazards, the next is the defroster, and the 3rd is withered away so I can't tell what it does. Does anyone know?
I seen a fog light switch that can add forward and rear fog lights with little modification to an e30. Does this particular year have the wiring where you can remove the tail light caps, add more caps with lights, and have rear fog lights?
Can't help you there, I'm not an E30 expert. Sorry.
Also, the brakes do not work unless the pedal is to the floor and then it is delayed. The system is not leaking brake fluid. Does the system need to be bled or does it need a brake booster?
It could be the booster or air in the system, but it might also be a bad master cylinder. E30s require an annual brake fluid flush using DOT 4 fluid only. If the fluid in the brake reservoir is murky or black you should flush the system again after a couple of weeks. Even then, you may be looking at rebuilding the calipers.
The engine has a slight rough idle. It seems there is a hose that is sealed, but not connected to the intake manifold on the top right side of the engine. What would this hose do and what does the (sensor?) on the intake manifold do? Is this the air flow meter?
The first thing you should do is buy the Bentley E30 Service Manual. That will address most of your questions.
Every few days the battery runs dead. Is there a continuously running BMW equipment that drains the battery if left sitting for several days (locks, alarm, starter kill rechargable flashlight)?
It could be the battery. Have it load tested. If it fails, replace it with an Interstate MTP-91. If the battery checks out good, I would next check the glovebox and trunk lamps. They sometimes remain on and cause the battery to drain. Adjusting or shimming the switch or its contact point should fix the problem. If the lamps aren't at fault, you need to hook up an ammeter to the battery and measure the current draw. Next, start pulling fuses one at a time. When you find the fuse that stops the current drain, you will have isolated the circuit that is causing the problem. In my experience, a frequent culprit is a poorly installed aftermarket radio and/or alarm.