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Rough idle/stalling might be the rubber boot that connects the fuel injection distributor to the intake manifold. Look for a cracked boot UNDERNEATH where you can't see it. This is actually a huge vacuum leak.
Given this car's issues, you may wish to consider bailing out on this vehicle. You can buy these cars pretty cheap in decent shape---but of course, if you like to fix 'em, you can save a lot on labor. But add up your parts costs for all this stuff and match that against a retail value for a clean '86 at about $2,500.
Everything has been great but then last week, the battery dies, I jump start it and its' fine for a couple of days and then dies again. I replaced the battery 2 days ago, and went to start the car this morning and it was dead. Before I take it to a mechanic, is there anything I should look for....Thanks
It's been awhile since i've posted but am in need of help asap. My 2002 330CI was taken in to fix the brakes and upon review, they noted that the control arms would need to be replace sometime soon. Over the last 3 weeks, I've been getting a clunking sound under the right side to the car along with extreeme vibrations steering to the right at highway speeds. I took the car in today to a different dealership near my work and they diagnosed the same problem....lower control arms right side immed.....left side reccom...along with 2 new bushings. $1140 for everything. My car has 50,000 miles, and the pre-cert warranty along with the extended factory maintenance warranty will not cover suspension type components i was told.
Can anyone let me know if the $114O sounds accurate, and should i have them do it or could someone reccomend a qualified tech. in the Chicago area. Also, if a independent shop does it... could it nullify any of my current warranties?
thanks a bunch,
chas
Does anyone know how I would be able to remove the emblem on the hood of my 2006 330i. Someone placed backwards so know it looks like I drive an MW8 instead of a BMW.
Thanks
He actually recomended that I take it to a transmission place that may know how to get their hands on the discontinued part. Does this sound familiar to anyone else?
If so, what would be the solution to fixing that kind of problem? Remove the fuel line from the car, floor the gas pedal and bleed all the alcohol out until gas comes out, then reattach it to the engine? Should the key be turned to power the car up and then do this? Would the alcohol damage the fuel pump or filter?
If anyone doesn't know, it's okay. I was just wondering how to fix that type of problem. What's worse is that they did it to a nice 84 BMW 325.
anyone else have any ideas or answers?
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My really stupid question: The gas cap. I can't open it. Won't twist at all. Is it just screwed on really tight or is there some locking mechanism? I'm stumped.
And do you know where I can get a book? And and another key?
Thanks,
SarahP
It's just on tight; twist it counter-clockwise.
And do you know where I can get a book? And and another key?
The dealer.
Thanks
any good indepenents mechanics/shops in DC METRO would be gret too. I checked on local BMC chapter website but none close to me!
If so, what would be the solution to fixing that kind of problem? Remove the fuel line from the car, floor the gas pedal and bleed all the alcohol out until gas comes out, then reattach it to the engine? Should the key be turned to power the car up and then do this? Would the alcohol damage the fuel pump or filter?
If anyone doesn't know, it's okay. I was just wondering how to fix that type of problem. What's worse is that they did it to a nice 84 BMW 325.
Time to drain the gas tank boys.
Went to BMW for an unrelated problem. The car still has 3 months remaining on the original warranty. The headlight ignitor was repaired and I was given a quotation of $1,000+ for a windshield replacement. The BMW Service Advisor said my windshield wipers may never work properly again if I have this work done at an independent shop.
Price is an issue but I want to make sure the installation of the windshield is done to OE standards. Any reason I should forego the better price and go with the BMW original?
Inline6
I had mine replaced with BMW glass, so I can't speak to the sensor in the PPG glass... As long as the independent guarantees that your sensors will work correctly, I'd give it a shot...
Even with BMW glass, my total bill was only around $500.. The dealer is really over-priced, original glass, or not..
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I have the rain sensing wipers. The part number is a BMW part number (51-31-7-059-697), but I did not see the BMW logo on the windshield. It looks exactly like my other one. The rain sensing wipers work fine after the replacement.
Do a google search on the part number and you will see what others are paying.
Does anyone know what could be causing this smell?
If not that, keep in mind the engine could be burning that stuff off when it is hot, but because the engine is cold, the engine heat really aggravated it. That why it smells so bad. Also check the sunroof really good.
Tell me more about the car's history. did you buy it new, used, preowned? Did it come from a BMW dealership or another dealer? Does it have a clean title? What kind of maintenance has been performed on the car?
A little mold can grow in the condensate on the A/C coils.
If i remember to turn off the AC for the last minute or two, it doesn't happen.
The car had 44 miles when I bought it and was manufactured in June of 06. The smell is precisely a dog poop smell, not a swamp or musty smell. It seems to be from outside the car, not from the a/c. There is nothing weird about the car's performance or under the hood.
My intuition is that the smell comes from organic brake pads. Is this possible? How could I be sure?
I've heard of animals getting into the engine bay and dying or defecating.
Before going to the dealer I would like to investigate the
vaccum lines at the engine. Being new to the car, how do I
remove the top engine cover to investigate?
chew on the wiring,friend of mine spent hundreds to repair
mouse damage that ocurred to a garage parked vehicle.
Over the past few days while driving, I get a faint smell of something burning... I checked under the hood and the belts look fine. Last night when I got home, I discovered that the rear wheels (driver side worst) were very hot.
Does this sound like an issue with the brakes causing the wheels to heat up? or is there maybe something wrong with the wheel??
Any help is appreciated.
If both wheels are VERY hot, then it sounds like the parking brake is dragging. If one wheel is significantly hotter, then my guess would be a stuck caliper.
The only thing that is pesky is the dimmer function that is supposed to auto dim the display when headlights are turned on. That doesn't work. I think that I found the correct wire according to the E30 wiring, but maybe the diagram is wrong or I'm misinterpreting the color. Does anyone have experience or can anyone point me in the right direction??
Thanks
I have the CDV replacement in my trunk and just are looking for a time to do it. How long did it take to bleed??? How much fluid did you have to put in the master cylinder. You don't, I am asking have to bleed anything except the 7mm bleed nut on the slave cylinder right??? The service manual had a more complicated bleeding process which has me slight concerned. Otherwise, it looks straight forward.
I have to tell you I am probably not as young, not as good a driver as you but I bought a 04 BMW couple manual with the sports package, and live in upstate rural NY, not in DC. With a front strut bar, and some other minor tweaks, I find the performance of the entire car puts miles of smiles on my face, and only cost me $27.5K. Yes, more power would always be appreciated as the suspension seems to outperform the power, but it goes over the limit in no time and anything else would seem to be a waste of power and gas. Even my German friends in Munich don't understand why we buy cars like this here in the first place, so???? I perform my Avalon with four snows on it with a bench seat to most AWD vehicles. Why would you need AWD in DC???? I don't get it??? Do you go skiing in the mountains alot???
Thanks for the CDV replacement comment. I just have to get to it at some time before the snow falls.
abfisch
About two 1/2 weeks ago, I took my car in for it's annual maintenance and also due to the steering wheel locking almost every morning and afternoon. A warning light would come on showing a steering wheel and a padlock. I had to jiggle the wheel for about 5 minutes before it would unlock. The service advisor had to order a new computer part. They kept my car for a whole week. They said that there was a recall on my car. I don't remember what for because when I questioned the service advisor about not receiving anything, he said it was for a minor issue that would be fixed whenever the cars came in for servicing. I now have another appointment because my car is now not accelerating as smoothly as it used to (before taking it in for servicing). You can feel it shifting hard. Yesterday, the steering wheel locked and it happened again today.
Anyone else having similar issues? :sick:
I'd be happy to help but right now I'm busy trying to solve a software problem that is locking me out of a couple of Edmunds forums. I'll look into your situation once I get things sorted.