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they do light on when headlamps are on or in the parking lamps mode though.
Did you get your steering wheel column fixed? I had been having trouble similar to you and then a week ago today I started the car and the same steering wheel indicator with a padlock came on and the iDrive (I have a 325xi with iDrive, GPS/Navigation, etc.) gave me a message that I should not stop my engine because it would not restart. I was instructed to find a safe location before pressing the stop button. I took it to the BMW dealer straight away.
Unfortunately, Rick Hendrick BMW is the only BMW franchise in Charleston, SC, so I was stuck with their bungling management and staff to correct the problem. It's been one week today and the car still sits. They did finally offer a loaner car last night, when I called late in the afternoon to see when my car would be ready (it was promised to me on Tuesday originally, but the Service Advisor called me late Monday to say it would be Wednesday instead). The reason the car still sits is because the part is backordered and won't be here in Charleston until after November 20, so it's likely I won't have my car back until after the Thanksgiving holiday. The only reason they offered the loaner last night was because I complained to anyone who would listen.
I've lost all confidence in the Hendrick Automotive Group and now, sadly, in BMW too. I've already placed an ad to sell my car when it's fixed. I've owned it less than one year, it has less than 15,000 miles on it and this is a pretty serious defect as far as I'm concerned. But more than that, I've had three horrendously horrible service experiences with the local BMW franchise and if this is what I'm to expect for the life of the car, NO THANKS! I get better service from Sentry GMC - across the street from the BMW dealer - when I take my 1998 Suburban in for an oil change, and I didn't even buy it from them!
The one unanswered question I have now, though, is whether this steering wheel lock problem is systemic and if it is, why hasn't it been reported? As I mentioned above, I view this as a pretty serious defect - can you imagine driving along and all of a sudden your steering wheel locks and you run into something because you're unable to turn?
JD
I, too, have no faith in BMW. The last two service visits have been horrible. My husband talked me into getting a :lemon: BMW; and, even he is not that impressed! We have already started looking for another car to replace this one.
We will be out car shopping today!
What a piece of junk.
I'm going car shopping today.
They'd better, or I'm going to buy a RELIABLE, hot-blooded, and race-bred machine- such as a V6 Camry!
My brother-in-law's father's horse trainer had the same problem. Time for a class action law suit!
Disgusting.
My other cars take Regular. I'm at the gas station every day filling up one of 3 family vehicles. I made it 15 months without a mistake.
And, if it's cold where you are, this will be even less of an issue.
And Happy Thanksgiving to all!
And that's not all; I wanted the transmission software update installed on my wife's '04 X3 2.5 and the dealer gave me an '06 X3 3.0 Sport to keep over an entire weekend. Then they had the nerve to hand wash my X3 before I picked it up.
No more German cars for me!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
There are no error code and BMW dealer can't tell exactly what happened.
Need help and appreciate if someone can give some feedback.
Despite the fact that the car has 60,000 miles on it and I have no extended warranty, they gave me a new alternator free (quite possibly because there had been no battery light when it originally failed). At any rate, I have had no problems with any BMW dealership I have taken my car to, and I have used three separate ones. I thought under the circumstances it was generous of them to replace the alternator without even charging me labor.
Your car is a 2000 with 121k miles, so it doesn't really surprise me that BMW is being balky at fixing the transmission. I would like to think it would last longer than that; but let's face it, BMWs, while great cars, are probably no more reliable once they get up in mileage like that than any other brand.
Your BMW doesn't have a "battery light". The light that you are refering to only illuminates when the charging system malfunctions.
they gave me a new alternator free
BMW dealers often provide no-cost goodwill repairs to loyal customers.
Your car is a 2000 with 121k miles, so it doesn't really surprise me that BMW is being balky at fixing the transmission.
I can't think of of a single manufacturer that would pay for repairs on a car that was @2 years and 71,000 miles out of warranty. Furthermore, I'll bet that the ATF was NEVER changed. My 1997 E39 is cruising along in the hands of its third owner and the automatic transmission operates as new. Of course, I did change the ATF at 100K- as Munich recommends.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/bmw_trans.html
No. A good independent BMW tech will be able to service your E46 with no problem. If you are a BMW CCA member I would contact some of the local chapter members and see who they use/recommend. That said, I've found my local dealer's service pricing to be very competitive for many procedures. I certainly would not advise buying any extended warranty other than the one(s) offered by BMW NA; the third party warranties are really just glorified insurance policies- and all too often it proves very hard to recover any reimbursement from the insurer.
In any event, the E46 has proven to be a very durable model. Change the engine oil every 7500 miles, the gearbox and final drive oil every 50000, coolant(BMW Coolant ONLY) every three years, and brake fluid(DOT4) every two years. I'd be surprised if your maintenance costs exceed $600/year-they will be even less if you can perform the simple procedures such as oil changes and brake pads/rotors.
Thanks
Thanks.
The OEM batteries almost always fail due to a lack of maintenance. The electrolyte level needs to be checked at least every six months and topped up with distilled water as needed. I followed that regimen with my Club Sport and my E39 and their batteries lasted ten years. In fact, the battery in the Club Sport never actually failed; I simply replaced it so I wouldn't be left stranded somewhere when/if it finally died.
Could you give me some more info (sorry, but a step-by-step would be awesome!). It sounds like I just need a bottle of distilled water and a funnel (ie, this is something I can do just by accessing the battery in the trunk)...?
No problem; check out this page. Your 3er should have a similar setup.
The part at a dealer, is, i think $250. Labor is trivial, but they may still charge an hour for it. Apprently, it is a broken solder, and you can fix it. I think div2 posted the link last time...
It's deja vu all over again;
E36 Climate Control Repair
The fender bender (bumper/hood replacement, paint, headlight replacement) turned into an appraisal of 13K in damage ($4K parts + $9K labor).
We've been told:
1) 6 week wait to even start working on the car. No other BMW bodyshops will be able to do it quicker.
2) 1 week of work per $1K in damage.
3) Car won't be fixed until March. (4 months)
4) Can't pull it out of the our bodyshop unless you pay our $2200 "appraisal fee".
5) If you pull the car out and don't let us do the work on the car, your BMW warranty is void.
Not having a car for 4 months is crazy so we figured we'd explore trading in the car, to the same dealership, and get into a new 328i (going to have to fork over some serious $$ for 4 months in rental anyways, plus our usual car payments).
Then we're told:
1) We'll only give you $20K on trade in AFTER the car is fixed. I understand body work knocks some $$ off the value, but the dealer is selling the same used 325i with the same options from $37-39K.
2) The reason we'll only give you $20K is that we can't sell it certified.
Love the car, not worth the nightmare.
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Thanks!
Just curious: what state are you in and who is the dealer?
We signed release paperwork allowing the bodyshop to even do the appraisal. I need to reread the that paperwork (wife has it with her), but I do know that the exact fee wasn't a predetermined amount, and is supposedly based there hourly labor charge ($49). That would make it a good 40-44 labor hours to do their appraisal. Obviously their way of making sure the car stays put.
We're calling BMW North America today to open a case and file a complaint.
California - Brecht BMW (Escondido)
First mistake; you should have researched the matter a bit further. Some BMW dealers have excellent body shops, while others are poor to mediocre.
1) 6 week wait to even start working on the car. No other BMW body shops will be able to do it quicker.
Possibly true.
2) 1 week of work per $1K in damage.
A flat out lie.
3) Car won't be fixed until March. (4 months)
See above.
4) Can't pull it out of the our body shop unless you pay our $2200 "appraisal fee".
Sounds like a scam, but the contract language may provide for it.
5) If you pull the car out and don't let us do the work on the car, your BMW warranty is void.
Another lie.
Then we're told:
1) We'll only give you $20K on trade in AFTER the car is fixed. I understand body work knocks some $$ off the value, but the dealer is selling the same used 325i with the same options from $37-39K.
A $13K accident will decrease the value by 10%-25%.
2) The reason we'll only give you $20K is that we can't sell it certified.
Another bald faced lie. A wrecked vehicle that is properly repaired to BMW standards can be a CPO car.
You should have joined BMW CCA as soon as you bought your E90. Had you done so, you could have easily gathered body shop recommendations and other pertinent information from local chapter members.
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