BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Let's ask prakashs to post his answer publically, so we can all get the information. Also posting your e-mail in a public forum may subject you to spam, so be careful about that.

ftroha · March 2007

BMW refused to correct the problem with the defect in the 2000 323i auto transmission, and they refused to pay any part of the cost of repair. As a result, I'll be seeing them in court on June 3. In the meantime, I will file formal complaints with every auto association, complaint site (complaints.com; BBB, Rip-Off Reports) and the Federal Trade Commission. I've already complainted to the National Transportation and Safety Board. If I recall, this past January "ConsumerAffairs.com" put out an article about this transmission defect (Transmission Failures Plaque BMW Owners) and BMW's failure to take responsiblity. I'll let you know how my litigation turns out in June.

idoc2 · March 2007

I am, so I bet many of you e90 owners are having this problem illustrated by a photo from Edmunds long term test of their 330i. My car has only 3,200 miles.

http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/category/cat.2006BMW330i

Idoc2

mmancini65 · March 2007

Thanks for your post and the links. I printed out the material and brought it to my dealer when I dropped of the car for an extended period of time today. This is also my car's third trip to the dealer. I'm hoping they'll reproduce the problem. Told them to keep it as long as needed. The chief technician took it home. I was told that a 5 series recently had the same problem. don't know the outcome. Keep me posted on your results :sick:

ljavar · March 2007

I have the same model and my reverse gear no longer works. Very interested in your outcome since the BMW dealer who analyzed it said (lied) that they haven't had any problems. It would cost $5k to fix and they can fix it right away because they just happen to have plenty of trannys for that model & year in stock. Hmmmmm.. How odd?

hoodoomusic · March 2007

The past couple of weeks, the clock (dashboard & radio) in my 2000 323i has been going to all dashes --:-- instead of displaying the time. Any suggestions on what this might be?

shipo · March 2007

Battery.

sikhkd · March 2007

I wanted to purchase angel eyes that the 5 series have, the ring around the lights.

Does anyone have any experience with this?

kominsky · March 2007

I've never done it but have seen a lot of discussion about it on other BMW forums. The kits are available from places like bavarian autosport (bavauto.com), turner motorsports, etc. I'm pretty sure that I saw a do-it-yourself write-up on e46fanatics.com that gave a pretty good summary of the installation.

mitchs5 · March 2007

I'm starting to use a bit more oil on my 2002 330i 5M. I previously went through a quart about every 3k, now about 2200 miles. I also note a nice puff a blue type smoke only on start up when cold, and only about every other time or so. My car has 52k miles, stills runs fine though MPG down a notch still good at 24mpg combined. My dealer says oils consumption is common in this car, and only considered abnormal if above a quart every 800 miles, which really sounds like a lot to me. I see no oil on my garage floor.. Am I looking at the beginning of engine trouble here or is this normal?

shipo · March 2007

That sounds a bit high, but considering that your engine came out of the gate using a quart ever 3,000, it's not at all out of line. Most manufacturers these days claim that the 1,000 mile per quart threshold is where to start looking for problems.

Were I in your shoes, I wouldn't worry about it, but I would keep an eye on it.

Best Regards,
Shipo

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Blue smoke on start up suggests wear to valve stem seals or valve guides. Basically oil from the valve cover area slowlly leaks down into the combustion chambers overnight. Also, under conditions of high vacuum (coasting in gear usually) oil can be sucked down through the guides or seals.

Amount of oil consumed in this manner is usually not excessive but if your consumption continues to drop, or the smoke is more noticeable as you drive (you'll see if it you are coasting and then suddenly punch the gas), then you have a problem....although not a deal breaker. Engines can run with worn seals or guides forever really if you can tolerate adding oil and killing mosquitos every morning.

chile96 · March 2007

just took the '03 325i in for it's last checkup before the warranty runs out next week. Car runs great and just had a coil pack go bad couple of times - that's it over the last 4 yrs (knock on wood). I had to search for something for them to check on - brakes squeaking, wipers, creak/rattle in top of window where forms a seal.

Any other suggestions for them to check before it becomes my dime?

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Yeah, front control arm bushings.

chile96 · March 2007

Perfect - Front control arm bushings....

So, in what sort of manner could I bring this up and have them feel like they solved the problem? i.e. what symptoms can i mention that might indicate the front control arm bushings are getting old and worn and giving out?

thanks a ton!

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Car wanders on the highway. I think I hear a clunk.

mitchs5 · March 2007

Thanks for the quick responses. I am trying to decide whether to keep my 02 330i for another year or two or fork over for a 335i coupe...I prefer to wait 2 years for price to drop and bugs to be worked out on coupe like oil sensors and maybe a "tech upgrade" like a dipstick will appear since my current car does consume oil..
I have one other problem. On cold mornings, for the first 1 mile or so on acceleration a rapping tapping noise is heard. The dealer has replaced 2 air pumps and belt tensioner but noise still there. I have learned to live with it, but does anyone have any thoughts?

kominsky · March 2007

I've had both sides done. One under warranty, one at ~90K miles. In both cases, there was an obvious shimmy at highway speeds while going through a sweeping curve.

mikethebmw · March 2007

it squeaks in reverse and when going forward when i give it gas in 1 and 2nd gear. what could cause this? it sounds like it is coming from the wheels but i am not sure. can anyone help?
i am open to any help or questions you might have. the nearest dealer is 65 miles away. ugh!
thanks

elmo1945 · March 2007

I have a 1986.. :sick: BMW 325 . It starts right up then stalls. It won't restart for another day or 2. After it stalls, if I crank the engine it floods so bad that gas runs in a stream from the air filter box. I assume it has something to do with the gas recirculation. But I know nothing about it. Don't know where to look. There must be a valve to route the excess pressure back to the tank, but where is it. Am I on the right track? HELP!
Lee

mmancini65 · March 2007

My dealer has had my car for 7 days and not been able to reproduce the problem. yet, BMW admits that the E90 engine and others has an intermittant problem related to the exhaust valves and lifters. BUT, they won't allow the dealership to do ANY work till the dealership can reproduce the problem themselves to verify it really exists. In other words, don't take the customer's word for it. I'm getting disgusted. Maybe I should drive the hell outta the car, try to burn up the valves and lifters, and then maybe I'll have a real problem they can actually diagnose.

marcy03 · March 2007

I recently took my 325I in for an oil change. While there, the service manager said I also needed to drain and renew engine coolant...I also needed wiper blade inserts. The warranty has expired, due to time not mileage. It was expensive. Before I picked up the car, the service guy called and said I needed new front brake pads, I had cracked engine belts( not sure of the terminology) and something else that I don't even understand! But it sounded important. The additional work would be almost $2,000. Can anyone tell me if all of these problems sound plausible on a car with 40,000 miles or is this guy trying to rob me?

klinkerklu · March 2007

Yes, I know this is very unfortunate.
Basically, our SA told us that finally the only way they were able to reproduce it was to leave the car idling for 10-20 minutes at a time. This eventually causes the bad lifters (which are causing the clatter we hear) to collapse & allows the technicians to find exactly which ones are faulty & replace them. That is the latest bulletin from BMWNA to troubleshoot and verify the customer's complaint so they can work on the car.

As for ours, After 2 weeks in the shop, we finally picked up our non-ticking car. Here is the report:
"Test drove car and could not hear noise initially. Had to start car & let idle several times. Found that there is loud lifter noise. Remove valve cover, camshafts, and rocker arms. Found 6 collapsed lifters. The rest look ok at this time. Lifters replaced were in cyls 1, 2, & 3 on exhaust side. Put all back together, no more noise at this time. 

This was the third visit since December for this problem, first time they actually repaired anything. They assured us they looked everything over, and there wouldnt be any long term damage. Hopefully that's true, & this is the end of this mess for us.
Good luck, and keep updates e90post or bimmerfest.com. They are great resources!

4wheels1 · March 2007

Brake pads are certainly possible at 40K miles. Cooolant is a 2-3 year thing also. The belts and blades might be needed, possibly just some puffery on the part of the dealer. You are probably paying too much for everything (if it is needed or not) by going to the dealership when you are out of warranty. Find a reputable independent that specializes in BMW's and you'll save about half. Try a forum like bimmerforums.com for names in your area.

davidd3 · March 2007

I am afraid that my car (2006 330i) has the same problem. I've been talking about it in a different forum, the one for the 2006 3 Series. I have a service appointment on April 10. The engine ticking noise comes and goes. Now it's gone. If it's not making the noise when I bring it in, your detailed post will come in very handy if they want to just give the car back to me and tell me to bring it back when it's ticking again.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Coolant should be done every two or three years.

Wiper blades can be shot in a year.

Brake pads can be measured for you. Get that number and post it.

Cracked belts should be shown to you as conspicuously cracked. If you see actual cracks in the belt, by all means have it done.

None of this stuff is rocket science and any competent independent shop that works on BMWs can do this for you cheaper.

mmancini65 · March 2007

After a week at my dealership in Rhode Island, my service guys have not been able to reproduce the ticking sound. BMW admits that some of these new engine have a problem with the exhaust valves, but won't allow the dealership to work on the engine till they have heard the noise for themselves. When I inquired if a videotape with audio of the noise would suffice, the chief service technician said it would suffice as evidence of the problem. I'm disgusted with the problem, largely out of conern for what this intermittant problem will do to the longevity of the engine. Good luck in your endeavors.

bryncerdd · March 2007

I'm not sure about the squeking when you give it gas, but a squeak in reverse, normally a slow speed, sounds very much like a worn CV joint where the drive shaft is attached to the rear differential. If these get grit in them, they can deteriorate quickly. Also, this is a normal wear item, usually with advance mileage (80k plus). To test for this, jack up one rear wheel, with the car in gear (and other wheels firmly blocked so the car won't roll forward or backward while you're playing with it), and see how much play you have in the drive train. A little is normal; if the wheel turns 10 degrees or more, the CV probably is the culprit.

Bryncerdd

eshields10 · March 2007

I dont know a lot about car i just know i picked bmw to be mym favorite lol and that prob. was a bad idea...

i have a 95 325i, few days after i got it off the lot there went the radiator..my great luck with any car ive ever had

I dont even know where to begin, ive got problems and i hope someone can give me some anwsers..seem to be fine since ive been driving it for a year now...

tail lights...work less than half the time..im assuming its the wiring, does anyone know how experinsive its going to be and if it is rhe wiring?

Next, my back window on the left just starting not rolling down, again i think its wiring because somes it will do it other times it wont

Sunroof AGAIN believe its the wiring, anyone no the cost?? when i wiggle the wires it goes, everything worked fine when i bought the darn car, and i mean its in real good shape.

there is only 87,000 miles when i bought it only 73,000 it shifts hard...can anyone tell me why..sometimes if shifts hire than other times, its an auto...could it be a dofferent tranny they have done stuff to the car, or is it because they raced it hard?

haha wont bother u guys w anymore things for now...just hope someone can help

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

Radiator disasters are very common with that era BMW--that's not your bad luck, that's just about everybody's bad luck.

Let me guess...the top hose and pipe fitting on the radiator cracked.....

jrct9454 · April 2007

Virtually ALL of the problems you've listed are indeed genetic with this era's BMWs - cracked radiator/coolant connectors [see above], brake switches [not the wiring], window regulators, and the sunroof. A GOOD BMW tech/mechanic will know all of these problems, and their solutions, which often mean updated and improved parts. Won't be cheap, however - no used German car should be purchased without a healthy reserve for maintenance costs. If you want something relatively trouble-free, especially late in the car's life, you buy Japanese.

Over the years, I've had 14 MBs, 4 BMWs, and at least 15 Toyotas - I know how this works.

circlew · April 2007

I agree with your methodology on the repair costs for the Europeans. You either factor those in or just lease and get out.

Regards,
OW

amir · April 2007

my 330i sedan has the sport package.it has a slight ratteling sounds @ times on rough roads.mostly from somewhere in the dash,possibly from ac vents.mostly when engine is cold or its below 70 degree.the dealer says it happens with sport package cars.dealer says cause their suspention is stiff so the cars with sport package can rattle.
Is it true.and has someone else experienced the same?please help

talhaazeem · April 2007

My insturment cluster hasn't worked properly for a couple of years. I just recently had the transmission rebuild on it and the transmission light and check engine light still comes on. The shop says that i have to get a new instrument cluster becuase they can't reset the computer. The car still seems to have transmission issues at take off and the shop guy is telling me that it's related to the instrument cluster. I think this guy is ripping me off. please help.

mmancini65 · April 2007

My exhaust lifters were all just replaced, with temporary resolution of the problem for 2 days, then it recurred briefly, and has gone away for the last 2 days. BMW has a major design flaw on its hands with these engines. Will keep you posted about how things go.

klinkerklu · April 2007

Well, good luck. The noise came back on ours after one week, but we haven't really heard it again. We are waiting to hear back our SA for further instructions.
This will be our fourth service visit. :lemon: ?
It may come to that...

melody3 · April 2007

Hello All:

I have a chance to buy a 2002 325 Convertible with only 20K miles that was agarage-kept second car for $29K. However, the dealer cannot certify it simply due to age. The car is in wonderful condition, and I was hoping to spend no more than 30K for my first BMW.

Do you think age is a problem for this car? My other choices on the dealer's lot are 2005's for 34K and they are certified.

Thanks,

Melody

Mr_Shiftright · April 2007

I think the point isn't really the age or the mileage, it's more about how risk-adverse you are. If something big gives out on this car, you are completely on your own with it--so you have to weigh that risk, however small, with the additional cost of going CPO and having that assurance.

Sounds like it's about a 4K difference between rolling the dice on a 5 year old car without warranty or having one with warranty. Given that, what do you think?

dhanley · April 2007

When did that 2005 go into service? If it's mid-2005, that means you'd have two years of free maintenance, and 4 years and a whole lot of miles of warranty.

Probably not going to save you $5000 in work, but it will save you some.

kyfdx · April 2007

My '05 went into service in November, 2005... It wasn't even built until October of that year..

Point is... you are correct.. there can be a big difference between warranty expiration dates, even with the same model year..

emmhead1 · April 2007

hey i have the exact same problem with my 99 323i i hear the noise about 70-80 percent of the time while shifting the 5 speed manual transmission.. i was wondering if you found out any new information about what the possible problem is...

kominsky · April 2007

Anyone know how the felt trim around the front windows mounts? I have a piece hanging down about 1/2" on the passenger side. Not far enough for me to see what's up above, but I didn't really want to pull down on it for a better look in case it's glued. If it is glued, does anyone have any recommendations on a product to re-glue it?
Thanks!

seminole2 · April 2007

i bought a certified, 2003 325xit wagon with 35k miles two weeks ago. earlier this week, i pulled out of the driveway, drove half a block and, as i was making a right turn at the corner, the car lost all power. i re-started it without any problem and it hasn't happened again---at least not yet. i called the dealer from whom i bought it; the service manager was responsive and scheduled me for a service sppointment in a few days.

has anyone else had a similar experience? would the car's "computer" show a fault code that could help explain what happened and why? --seminole2

davidd3 · April 2007

Reporting back after finally having my car (2006 330i) serviced today. Mrs. D did the honors. Engine was not making the ticking noise at drop-off. At first it was just as I feared. No noise + no OBC problem indicator = no problem from their point of view. A call late morning to say the car was ready. Mrs. D picked it up after work. Written report stated "unable to duplicate or verify at this time." Then we got lucky. Engine suddenly started making the noise again just as my wife was taking delivery. They listened and said it is the lifters. Said they just finished working on a car with the same problem. They are ordering parts. In the meantime we are back in our car and they say there is no damage being done by driving it.

And the loaner? That was a bummer. No 335. At first they put Mrs. D in a 5-Series for the first time. She was admiring it inside and out, but soon realized the power seat wasn't working and she couldn't get close enough to drive the car. Had to give it up for a 328xi in what she referred to as an embarrassing bright blue color. She went on to complain that it felt sluggish as compared to our car. Must be the combination of less hp (328 i/o 330) and added weight (xi i/o i).

klinkerklu · April 2007

Well, hopefully that takes care of you. We've heard ours tick loudly once since we had the lifters replaced, but not since.
You guys should keep updates here as well, we have a huge thread going on this problem... (unfortunately!! 2 people have declared lemons and gotten new cars from this)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=860523#post860523

kochan · April 2007

Has anybody experienced a problem with their 2000 328ci (or similar other E46) where the revs suddenly dip while idling, dropping to 100-200 RPM for a split second and then shooting up to 2500 for a second, before returning to idle? It's intermittent, occuring randomly but usually only when I first start the car. Turning it off and on after the engine is warm usually fixes the problem. I am out of ideas. Doesn't sound like vacuum. Oil? Fuel pump? Computer?

Thanks,

Mike

pat · April 2007

Please DO keep us updated here on this issue!

skj109 · April 2007

I have a 2006 330i sedan with sports package. I do not have any rattling. There was a noise from the fan blower but they replaced it and no noise since then. Even in weather below 20 degrees - no rattling. As far as noises, I've noticed some type of noise when I leave up on the brakes slightly from a parked position. Have you experienced anything like that?

jdiorio1 · April 2007

Mike,

I have a 2001 325i, and have had a similar idling problem. The rpms drop, and the engine seems to over correct and the rpms shoot back up. Once the engine even shut off because the oscillations got so bad. It occurs randomly, and only while idling. I found this to be particularly bad in colder weather. Unfortunately, I don't know what's causing it, so I can't answer your question, but I'd be interested to know if you have tried anything, or if anyone else has any ideas.

shipo · April 2007

I believe that the problem is worn out oil pressure control "O" rings in your VANOS cam timing system. That said, while I've heard of this problem occurring on 1999 and 2000 vintage 2.3 and 2.8 liter engines, this is the first I've heard of a 2001 or later having the problem. That said, I don't think there is much difference between the VANOS design between 2000 and 2001 so I guess the problem was just a matter of time before it cropped up on the later model cars.

Best Regards,
Shipo

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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