BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

roadburner · November 2007

when should I measure the oil level?

I wait 15 minutes to 1 hour. Cdnpinhead's method is the most accurate, but an hour should be close enough.

should I be planning to replace my radiator?

You'll want to swap the radiator out before you hit 100K. I'd go with an all-metal replacement if I tracked the car; otherwise I'd fit an OEM replacement.

Mr_Shiftright · November 2007

As a man who has been scalded by a 3-series radiator, I heartily concur. (Neck broke off at top radiator hose connection, at 76,000 miles)

sunilb · November 2007

thanks for all of the help everyone.

I had my car at the mechanic and they didn't see anything wrong with it (I asked them to look for any oil or coolant leaks). But when I asked about the radiator they said that usually these break before 100K miles, and that almost all of their customers don't get this replaced until it breaks.

Not sure if this was wise, but I had them go ahead and change out the radiator anyhow (I figured it was already in the shop and I didn't want to have this leaving me stranded on the side of the road somewhere).

roadburner · November 2007

Not sure if this was wise, but I had them go ahead and change out the radiator anyhow (I figured it was already in the shop and I didn't want to have this leaving me stranded on the side of the road somewhere).

Smart move. I know of one guy who had his E30 318is dump all its coolant in an interstate construction zone- with no place to pull off. By the time he limped to the first pull off he had bought a new engine. Pay now or REALLY pay later.

cdnpinhead · November 2007

Just wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for your contributions here and in several other boards I visit.

It's really helpful to have people who actually know something contribute. Just since May you've become one of the BMW authorities, at least in my book.

roadburner · November 2007

Just wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for your contributions here and in several other boards I visit.

You are welcome. Cars are my hobby, and I "specialize" in BMWs. I'm just glad to be able to help people out every now and then.

nbb · November 2007

I've been following this subject for some time. We have a 2000 323i and a 2001 325iC. Thankfully, neither transmission has failed. But I am concerned about what to do in the event it happens to me, so any precedent I can share with my dealer is valuable. This was the first I heard of someone getting full reimbursement through the courts. At most, I heard of people getting 'Goodwill' repairs which covered the cost of the part. Can you share the name of the dealer that reimbursed you? Also, do you (or anyone else) fully understand which cars are at risk? For example, is it strictly MY2000? Certain build months? Certain countries of origin (my MY2000 is French, my 2001 is German)? Thanks!

tweet37 · November 2007

Can anyone tell me how the new 2007 3-Series hardtop ride compares with the sedans? Specifically, is there any noise difference inside when the top is up?

roadburner · November 2007

Can anyone tell me how the new 2007 3-Series hardtop ride compares with the sedans? Specifically, is there any noise difference inside when the top is up?

I drove a 335i Sport Package car for a couple of weeks. The ride was smooth and comfortable. I haven't driven enough sedans to make a valid comparison. As for the steel top, I found it to be every bit as quiet as the coupe. The only compromise the drop top forces on you id reduced luggage space.

ftroha · November 2007

I won the case and I'm waiting for my check. If the dealership fails to pay within 30 days -- and it looks like they may not at this point -- the matter is turned over to a marshall who can seize the dealership's assets. I suggest you visit the website: "noreverse.org" for documentation that can support your case, if your transmission fails, as I suspect it will. A service bulletin to BMW technicians reporting the fact the transmission would be discontinued appears on the site along with other useful information. Ironically, one of the two judges I met in three court appearances was quite familiar with the 2000 323i's transmission problem. His son's car, a 2000 323i, also failed to engage in reverse without warning.

davidd3 · November 2007

2006 330i w/o Sport Package, 34k miles.

Service center said my noisy cabin is due to cupped OEM tires, unevenly worn on outter & inner. They recommended new tires, quoting $900. Mrs. D declined because we're leasing the car and our lease ends in Aug 2008. We do the winter wheel/tire changeover thing. The OEM tires are coming off just a few weeks from now. Presumably cabin noise will cease to be an issue when the snow tires go back on.

Here's my question. I would normally take the snow tires off around March 31. But in view of my situation (very noisy OEM tires), I'm thinking about possibly running the snows through spring and summer, making the switch back to the OEMs just before giving the car back at the end of August. Is there any big problem with running snow tires in seasons other than winter?

My OEM tires only have 22,000 miles on them. Lots of tread left. But cupping issue makes for too much road noise. I can't stand the noise, but I refuse to pay $900 for new tires near the end of my lease.

My winter tires (Dunlop Winter Sport M3s) have gone through 2 winters and about 12,000 miles. I'm not sure how many miles to reasonably expect from them. This figures to be their last winter anyway. I'm not sure what car I will get next. Even if I got another BMW, I may need a different winter wheel/tire size.

This is the first time for me to experience cupping. What causes cupping? Is it the fault of the tires or the fault of the car? If it's the fault of the car, is there something they should have checked/fixed so that it won't happen to me again? There's no indication that they did anything other than road test the car, conclude that the tires were cupped, and recommend new tires.

Thanks.

circlew · November 2007

The cupping is presumed to be soft rubber compound that was experienced on the Bridgestone EL-42 tires. I had mine changed on this 2006 330xi at 12K for free with Continental ContiPro Contact SSR All-Season tires. BS has changed the rubber since on the EL-42.

My suggestion is you go for a set of these for around $576 at tire rack before taxes/shipping.

link title

Good Luck.

Regards,
OW

breakneckz · November 2007

I'm buying this car, with 37,000 miles, for $20K....has 7 months of CPO and free maintenance remaining.....first question:

1. This a good deal?
2. I've been reading blogs/forums all day, what kind of reliability issues are "normal" or are they mostly specific to individuals?
3. What are maintenance fees REALLY like?
4. Can I purchase an extended warranty from BMW BEYOND the CPO terms??

Thanks guys...glad I found you.....

here's the car:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?rdpage=thumb&car_id=230417779&dealer_id=57- - 4493&car_year=2002&model=330CI&num_records=25&systime=1194744720795&make2=&start- - _year=2001&keywordsfyc=&engine=&keywordsrep=&certified=&body_code=2&fuel=&only_p- - rice=1&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang- - =&make=BMW&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&body_styl- - e=COUPE&drive=&isDWSI=false&isDWSI=false&default_sort=priceASC&max_mileage=&styl- - e_flag=2&useNewVDPContact=1&useNewVDPContact=1&sort_type=priceASC&address=07080&- - advanced=y&only_photo=1&end_year=2006&doors=&transmission=&max_price=30000&cardi- - st=34

paul_m · November 2007

I recently had my car serviced by a mechanic friend but he didnt know how to turn off the service spanner light on the dashboard, I have a 2002 318ci. Does anyone know how to turn the light off?

thanks in advance...

roadburner · November 2007

I have a 2002 318ci. Does anyone know how to turn the light off?

Is that a European car? The US 318i was replaced by the 323i in 1999.

nbb · November 2007

Thanks for the info. I looked at the noreverse website, but I couldn't find conclusive info on which cars are affected.

BTW, are you allowed to share the name of the NJ dealer?

It's always useful when negotiating with Dealer 'A' to tell them that Dealer 'B' had to reimburse a customer in full. Thx.

pat · November 2007

Dealer names can be posted here, no problem. What would reach more people is to post on the Dealer Ratings & Reviews page in addition to posting here. Maybe folks would like to give that a try as well!

hummerman1 · November 2007

I owned a 1996 BMW 318TI, WITH 139,000 miles, it just pass state inspection in Penn 2 weeks ago, but right after the inspection the Check engine stays on, and when try to start at first try it does not start, the starts on second try and idles smoothly for about 3o seconds and start idling and jerking at same time. Once I hit the gas it goes smoothly, but when stop at a light it starts idling again totutototot....

Since I bought the car 4 years ago I haven done any tune up, because of high gas prices I used 87 sometimes, and also I do my oil change by topping it. Could this all be the problem? How can i fix this? Do I just need a fuel filter change. Please advice.

roadburner · November 2007

The first thing you need to do is take the car to Autozone, where they will read out -for free- the fault code that is causing the Check Engine light to illuminate. Get that information and check back in. In any event, the plugs should be changed at @30K intervals, ditto for the air and fuel filters. The oxygen sensor(s) should have been replaced at 100K as well.

cdnpinhead · November 2007

If you haven't done anything with the oil but top it up for four years, your fun is just beginning.

roadburner · November 2007

If you haven't done anything with the oil but top it up for four years, your fun is just beginning.

I agree, I had assumed that he meant that he was using a topsider-style suction pump. Your conclusion is likely correct, however...

bearsfan · November 2007

BMW recommends Premium gas for 325i models but when gas prices are going north, if I fill regular gas, will it harm the engine apart from some performance issue (like loss in power)? What are your experiences?

shipo · November 2007

No, in the short term you won't harm your engine (although some claim that long term use of low AKI fuel will gradually cause the engine to wear sooner than it otherwise would), however, using regular fuel will reduce both power and economy and as such is a "fool's economy". By most accounts, your fuel economy will suffer more than enough to cause you to actually spend more money on gasoline per mile driven than you would have spent if you had just put the more expensive fuel in there in the first place.

Best Regards,
Shipo

brislance1 · November 2007

My son-in-law was rear ended in his Bimmer last night in the Dallas area. Anyone from that area know of a good body shop there? Would you use a certified BMW shop like Classic BMW? Any advise welcome!

Thanks

roadburner · November 2007

You might want to check with Steve at Louden Motorcar Services and see who he recommends.

rjorge3 · November 2007

Hi there, I want the input from anyone of you guys that has kept their bimmer for well over 5 years (10 preferably) or has over 100k miles. If you were the owner of an Audi A4, please provide me with your experience vs the BMW.

My current lease (2005 A4) expires on April 08 and I want to lease my next car with the intention of perhaps keeping it for a long time (well over 9 to 10 years). I know that I would be paying more by leasing and then buying it, but I want to make sure that the car I keep is neither a lemon or will give me tons of problems past the warranty. My current Audi has been in the shop over 6 times for all kinds of crazy problems :lemon: even though I am fanatical about oil changes, premium fuel, break in period, I dont' speed, heck I even wash the car by hand all the time (except when it gets below 40 degrees).

I want to know from those that have kept their bimmers for well past 5 years if you have experienced lots of problems and if you will consider keeping the car for 7 to 10 years. And for those that have a beemer with at least 100k miles, has the car become a money pit? or does it only requires the normal wear and tear maintance. Also, for those of you that have purchased the 2006 or 2007 3 series, have you encounter any problems so far that would prevent you from keeping this car for a long time.

My college years workhorse (1994 celica) has 175,000 and have never ever given me problems, so I guess I am spoiled as to what my expectations were with a german car, in my case the Audi A4.

Although I have to admit that I like the looks of the Audi better than the 3s, I can sacrifice aesthetic for piece of mind.

Thanks in advance for your responses

roadburner · November 2007

Hi there, I want the input from anyone of you guys that has kept their bimmer for well over 5 years (10 preferably) or has over 100k miles.

Welcome to the board! I've owned BMWs since 1983- 8 in all, and I perform a lot of the minor service and repairs myself. My wife drives a 2004 X3 while I currently run a 1995 318ti Club Sport; I'm the original owner. At 12 years, and 112,000 miles my ti has needed the following non-scheduled maintenance:
O2 sensor(recall, replaced at a scheduled service)
both fuel sending units(warranty, replaced at a scheduled service)
alarm module(warranty, replaced at a scheduled service)
1 set of front brake pads(due to track use)
1 set pad/rotors front and rear
2 serpentine belts(replaced as a precaution)
2 idler pulleys
1 timing chain tensioner(replaced as a precaution)
3 sets of W or Z rated tires
1 battery(replaced at ten years, one month as a precaution)
1 brake light switch
1 thermostat
4 sets of wiper blades
5 exterior bulbs
The car has seen more than a few drivers schools and autocrosses and is driven in every kind of weather except ice and snow. It's a rare drive when I don't wind it to the redline at least three or more times. No other car I've owned comes close to the reliability of my Club Sport. As a matter of fact, my son and I drove it to the movie theater just last night. The paint still shines like new, the interior has no rips, cracks, or tears, and the overall structure of the car is still extremely solid- there are no squeaks or rattles whatsoever. Over the life of the car the monthly service/repair costs have averaged closer $45 per month, including the 3 sets of tires mentioned above. This year my 3er cost $57 per month to run because it required an Inspection II(major) service, a coolant flush, a front end alignment and a thermostat. If you decide to buy a Bimmer I would strongly suggest that you join the BMW Car Club of America. You get a great monthly magazine as well as access to lots of information that will allow you to make informed decisions regarding maintenance and repairs. And BMW Drivers Schools are second to none.
I would expect that the overall mechanical reliability of the new 3 Series will be similar to that of my Club Sport. However, like most every other automaker, BMW has seen fit to cram their cars with dozens of electronic gadgets operated my multiple processors. At 56K my wife's X4 has only required the replacement of an SRS occupant sensor pad. Her prior car was a 1997 528iA, and it too had no unusual glitches. I would hope the new 3ers exhibit similar overall reliability, but at this point it's too early to tell.

rjorge3 · November 2007

roadrunner, thanks a million for your detailed write up. And those items that you mentioned, I would consider those things wear and tear. $45 per month average maintance is nothing!.

Again, thanks for your input that is exactly what I was hoping to get out of this forum. I do understand that there might be some others that might have had bad experiences with the 3s (as it happens with any other cars) , but at least I can have some sort of idea from someone that has owned one since birth

I went to test drive the Lexus IS250 today and although it was very nice to look at (interior), the driving "feeling" was not there. I called my dealer since they also sell BMW to schedule a test drive on the 335 next week, even though my lease is not up until a couple of months, they assure me that the bimmer will put a smile in my face.

I'll keep you posted, :shades:

R

sunilb · November 2007

roadburner-- great notes!

just curious... where do you account for changes to the cooling system, suspension, etc.? Do you consider these "scheduled" or "non-scheduled".

My limited (car has 83K miles, only 47K are mine) experience has been that the car is great to drive, but definitely requires more "unique" servicing. For example, I've never had to replace a radiator or expansion tank on a Japanese car below 150K miles. I haven't made any changes to the suspension, but I suspect somewhere north of 100K miles that I will need to do that as well.

roadburner · November 2007

roadrunner, thanks a million for your detailed write up. And those items that you mentioned, I would consider those things wear and tear. $45 per month average maintance is nothing!

Just remember, that's been my experience. You mileage may vary... Regardless, the BMW enthusiast community -and BMW CCA in particular- is a tremendous asset, and has probably saved me a few thousand dollars in time and trouble. And please let me know if you have any more questions.

roadburner · November 2007

roadburner-- great notes!

Thanks!

just curious... where do you account for changes to the cooling system, suspension, etc.? Do you consider these "scheduled" or "non-scheduled"?

On a E36 or E46 # Series I would definitely replace the water pump and radiator prior to their normal failure point. For some reason, the cooling systems of 1994-1999 four cylinders are remarkably robust. As I mentioned above, I've only replaced the thermostat. In my experience, the sixes usually need a radiator prior to 100K and often a water pump as well. This has been true since 1983 and the introduction of the E28 533i. However, I hesitate to make any predictions concerning the N54 twin turbo, as it uses an electric water pump- thereby eliminating the thermostat. The new pump may last the life of the car or it may die at 100K. The radiator is still likely to need replacement around 100K. Fortunately BMW replacement units are relatively inexpensive. As for the suspension, I've found that most all cars -not just BMWs- will need some amount of suspension work as they near 120K. Just look at it as an opportunity to upgrade your existing set up. Dinan, Turner, TC Kline, and UUC Motorwerks all offer a wide selection of suspension packages as well as individual parts- all at various price points. For example, UUC has a nice spring and damper package for just $700.
I'll be the first to admit that BMWs will tend to need a bit more TLC than the average Honda or Toyota, but in most cases any additional expense and hassle can be minimized by knowing what parts to buy, where to buy them, and where to have the work performed.

angecs29 · November 2007

Hi. I have a 2000 328Ci w/ 86K miles on it. The left back window and interior power lock button do not work, meaning nothing happens when I press on them. I'm thinking (hoping) this could be a fuse. Does anyone know if these two things could be connected??

Also, I've noticed a creaking coming from the back left side. I've read through some posts and a lot of people are saying it could be the 40/60 rear seats not locked in correctly, but this problem seems to cause creaking on the right hand side. I mainly notice the creaking when coming to stops. I'm thinking the second possibility could be the struts or maybe the shocks? But it's only when stopping and at slow speeds that I notice the creaking.

Lastly, does anyone know of a good BMW tech in Greensboro, NC?

Thanks in advance.

angecs29 · November 2007

Also, I just noticed the hazard button isn't working...

Mr_Shiftright · November 2007

Any opinions on the reputation, durability of a 1996 BMW 318iC 5 speed, 99K miles, very good records and history, clean car?

roadburner · November 2007

Any opinions on the reputation, durability of a 1996 BMW 318iC 5 speed, 99K miles, very good records and history, clean car?

I've heard that the convertible top can have problems, but I've never looked into it since drop tops don't interest me. As far as the rest of the car, the drivetrain is just about bulletproof. The only things that seem to wear are the serpentine belt tensioner and idler pullies, which are inexpensive and easily replaced. The only suspension parts that may need replacement are the rear shock mounts(replace them with the heavy duty units UUC Motorwerks sells), tie rod ends, and lower control arm bushings.

Mr_Shiftright · November 2007

thanks! Is this a timing belt or chain engine?

Yep, I know about the control arm bushings.

roadburner · November 2007

thanks! Is this a timing belt or chain engine?

It has a timing chain. The only US BMW engines fitted with timing belts were the M20 six cylinders, which were found in the E28 528e, the E30 325e/i/is, and the 1989-1990 E34 525i(the changeover to the twin cam M50 took place during June 1990). The M40 single cam four also used a timing belt, but it was never officially imported to the US.
The engine in "your" 318i is a M44.

koiman · November 2007

I've had a problem with my 325 its reverted back to military time so I reset it but each time I turn off and then restart the car it reverts back to military time again.

mixmaster1 · November 2007

hello
my ac is leaking (its not leaking water) white air its like smog truh my vents with out having the ac on

thankx

jimmyt4 · November 2007

Hi,I seem to remember having some problems with the heated door locks and the power antenna motors would wind down and the motor would continue to run, I have also seen the starter draw the battery down, most of the time this would happen over night.
Hope you have already found the problem if not hope this helps.

jimmyt4

Mr_Shiftright · December 2007

Usually that's just a high humidity condition with the AC "on" -- are you sure this isn't happening say in the defrost position, which probably does use the AC?

mixmaster1 · December 2007

hello
thank you for answering my massege
my ac controller the lights go off and on with out doing any think and the ac is off
and cold air comes truh the vents and some times hot air comes truh the vent
and some times fogy freeon truh the vent
thankx

Mr_Shiftright · December 2007

You have automatic AC (dial-a-number kind of thing?) right?

Sounds like the AC is just cycling on and off to reach the temperature you have selected. If this is true, then the "fog" will occur when you have high humidity in the car itself.

Do you use the "recirculating air" feature or are you constantly on the fresh air (outside air) function? Once the car is cool or warm to your liking, you should switch to recirc. I don't know your particular car so don't know if you have this option.

ashvarts · December 2007

Hi,

I just got a new 2008 328xi. I noticed that the car's cabin always feels a bit warm. I turned off the ac entirely and moved the vent dial to the coldest setting, but I still feel warm air coming through the vents! how to do I stop this?

Mr_Shiftright · December 2007

Did you work the little blue and red arrow? What temp does the readout say?

bowmen · December 2007

I own a 2001 330i and am seriously considering a 335xi. In fact we're going to test drive one tomorrow. My only reservation is the issue with the RFT's. That aside it still seems to be the best in class and we've been very happy with the 330. My question is are there any additional maintenece requirements with the twin turbos such as more frequent oil changes or letting the engine idle to allow the turbos to slow before turning off?

Thanks for the info

Mike

circlew · December 2007

Mike, make sure you DEMAND the Continental RFT's. They are head and shoulders better than the Bridgestones.

Regards,
Ow

roadburner · December 2007

My question is are there any additional maintenece requirements with the twin turbos such as more frequent oil changes or letting the engine idle to allow the turbos to slow before turning off?

I considered picking up a 335i, so I performed a bit of research. It seems that the N54 motor is pretty hard on oil- in large part due to the direct injection as well as the turbochargers. If I owned a 335i I would change the oil at least every 7500 miles. Fortunately, it's a dead easy DIY job, even though Munich has quietly deleted the dipstick :mad: As for engine shut down? Well, I'd let the car idle for 30 seconds or so if I had been flogging the car pretty hard, and maybe up to 5 if the car had been on the track. In normal driving you should be able to treat it like a NA motor.

kominsky · December 2007

Anyone have a recommendation on non-OEM blades?

I've been using the factory blade refills for 6 years for a few reasons... they stay planted on the windshield at speed, they clear the windshield well, and they're cheap and easy to replace.

I have noticed, though, that their life expectancy is decreasing. Initially, I was replacing them once a year and they seemed to work fine for that amount of time. The last few sets I've put on, however, have needed replacing in a much shorter amount of time. As little as 3 months. I'm guessing BMW switched suppliers or something.

Again, the fact that they stay planted at speed is important to me so if there is a non-OEM replacement blade that would fit the arm, that would be great. If not, I don't mind replacing the whole thing for something that would exhibit the same ability.

thanks!

shipo · December 2007

I've been in the habit of just buying refills in the proper size. I used Anco refils on both of my BMWs and changed them yearly with no problems. I'm thinking that they cost about $3.00 per blade.

Best Regards,
Shipo

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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