BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

roadburner · December 2007

I've had good luck with Bosch.

kominsky · December 2007

So is there some kind of industry standard on the width of the blade guides? Refills of most brands will fit? If so, that's pretty cool. Thanks!

shipo · December 2007

I don't actually know. I just looked up the blades that I bought for my 328i and they were listed as Anco N24R for the Driver's side blade and Anco U20R for the Passenger side. Per my notes from 2000, it cost me $5.99 for two 24" Driver's side refills and $4.99 for two 20" Passenger side refills.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jayg · December 2007

I have a 2007 335xi. Scheduled oil change is at 15K miles and I was never told (and never read) that the I need to idle before shutting it off. The is a a lot of fun. Driving it to Florida in January.

roadburner · December 2007

Scheduled oil change is at 15K miles and I was never told (and never read) that the(sic) I need to idle before shutting it off.

I've seen several UOAs that indicate that the N54 sometimes kills the oil in less than 3000 miles. No way would I run the oil five times that mileage. As a further data point, the NA M54 in my wife's E83 depletes the additive pack(TBN=0.4) in less than 8400 miles. And guess what? That SI system calls for a 15000 mile change interval as well. Note that in both cases the oils in question met the BMW LL-01 specs.

The(sic) is a lot of fun.

Enjoy it now- while you still can; I suspect that following the 15000 mile OCI will turn most N54s into boat anchors before they reach 100000 miles.

cotmc · December 2007

Roadburner: Sounds like another reason why a used 335 will not be at the top of my shopping list a couple years from now.

This reminds me of the events leading to our recent CPO X3 purchase. The very first X3 we nearly purchased (back in early September) was an '04 2.5i from a BMW dealer near San Diego. They had certified this car with about 43K miles on it. However, upon further inspection, I discovered they had no record of any oil change prior to 27K miles! When I pressed for an explanation, they couldn't give me any. I'm paraphrasing, but their response was something like, "Well, it obviously must have met BMWNA's criteria for certification. So, I'm sure everything is just fine."

That was the first of a couple of warning signs that caused me to back away!

Edit: For those who don't know me, I'm definitely not anti-BMW! We eventually pulled the trigger on an '04 X3 3.0i from a dealer in downtown L.A. My wife is very happy with it, and I'm very pleased with my '05 325Ci. Both were purchased as CPO vehicles, after significant research.

shipo · December 2007

Yikes! Things like that scare the stuffin' out of me. What kind of a moron drives a 540i into the dirt like that? I suppose the good thing is that since the car is CPO, BMW will probably have to put in a new motor under the warranty. Of course as soon as that new mill (costing what... $20,000?) goes in, if I was BMW, I'd be hunting the scalp of the technician that certified the car AND the used car manager that took it in trade or the leasing manager that took it back without assessing the original owner for the cost of a new engine. :P

Best Regards,
Shipo

pat · December 2007

Sorry, but I had to remove a post with pictures that were wider than the text area. When a post contains a wide picture, the messages around it are distorted and cannot be read.

The recent upgrade has made this restriction more critical, unfortunately. (And please, the messenger had no control over it, so please don't shoot! :-P)

Please make sure your pictures do not exceed the text area. If they do and you are not able to reduce them, just give us a link.

Thanks!

bdkinnh · December 2007

>"Per my notes from 2000..."

You have notes from 7 years ago on how much you paid for wiper blades? You must be a database guy.

The reason I'm guessing that: I am too, and I keep the same level of detail.

roadburner · December 2007

The reason I'm guessing that: I am too, and I keep the same level of detail.

That makes three of us... :P

shipo · December 2007

Wanna hear something scary? In my basement I have servers that run the following:

- Sybase Adaptive Server Enterprise (Linux)
- Sybase Adaptive Server Anywhere (Win2K Server)
- Informix SE (SCO Open Server Unix)
- Informix Online (Linux)
- Oracle 10g (Linux)
- MY-SQL 5.0 (Linux)
- MS-SQLServer 2000 (Win2K Server)

Yeesh, I need to get a life. :-/

Best Regards,
Shipo

circlew · December 2007

You should get into cars for a hobby!

What is the difference between a maintenance schedule for a contemporary 3-series used for 100% public roads vs. 25% track. The computer tracks and measures the routine stuff but what goodies wear faster and need more attention?

Regards,
OW

shipo · December 2007

Oil (tracked by the OLM), tires and brakes.

Best Regards,
Shipo

angecs29 · December 2007

I have a 2000 328ci w/ 86K miles on it. I've just noticed that in the morning when I drive to work the brakes make a weird hissing noise when I stop. It's almost like air is escaping. By the time I get to work (20 mins later) the noise is gone. Any ideas?

Also, sometimes my driver window doesn't roll-up all the way to seal when I close my door. It'll stay in the adjusted position as when I opened the door. If I turn the car on and go through the exiting process again, it corrects itself. Ideas??? :confuse:

angecs29 · December 2007

There is a dial in the middle of the main air vent that helps you control the type of air coming out. Try that?

shipo · December 2007

At 86,000 miles I'm guessing that it's time for new pads and rotors. I've found that BMW brake pads can sometimes wear at an odd angle and cause brake noise even though the wear sensor hasn't been tripped yet, and that might well be your issue.

Best Regards,
Shipo

angecs29 · December 2007

Well, I just had those changed though.

bdkinnh · December 2007

>"In my basement I have servers..."

VMWare, dude... the only way to fly. Also great for testing DG and RAC with 10g.

shipo · December 2007

VMWare on my laptop. Fedora Core 4 (the newer cores don't run Sybase or Oracle) and WinXP Pro. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

roadburner · December 2007

The computer tracks and measures the routine stuff but what goodies wear faster and need more attention?

I'd change the brake fluid every six months using ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid. According to the SI system in my B7 loaner, 90 minutes on the track took 900 miles off of the oil life... :P

circlew · December 2007

Hmm, I'd assume a high performance oil can take a licking...the B7 is an awesome car as is the B3 you posted on another discussion.

I an still skeptical of these automated systems to accurately monitor fluid life. For a seasoned maintenance pro, the experience of visual and olfactory sensory checks still make sense to me over a computer calculation matched with the experience of how the vehicle systems were operated during the operating period.

Regards,
OW

bdkinnh · December 2007

>"the newer cores don't run Sybase or Oracle"

10.2.0.3 running just jim dandy on FC5 and 6 under VMWare on XP Pro for me...

And to add some on-topic: also running jim dandy for me is my new Escort SRX in my 535i. :shades:

shipo · December 2007

Hmmm, that's interesting, per Oracle, 10g isn't supposed to work on anything above FC4, and when I tried it on both FC5 and FC6 I ran into memory management errors, exactly as the Oracle tech told me to expect. The installation went no problem, however, I couldn't get the engine to load. How did you manage to get it to even launch?

FWIW #1, Sybase ASE 12.5.3 and ASE 15.0.x behave the same way on anything above FC4.

FWIW #2, my FC4 server has Sybase, Oracle, Informix and MySql all running on it and I'm in no hurry to upset the apple cart and try an upgrade. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

Edit: Possibly answering my question from above, I don't believe I'm running a release as current as the 10.2.0.3 that you are running. I may well install the latest rev, but given how well FC4 runs, I'm in no hurry to upgrade that bit. ;-)

shipo · December 2007

Screech! End of the off topic excursion. :P

Sorry about that Pat.

Best Regards,
Shipo

r74g · December 2007

Hello all:

I own an 04 325i and recently the (I believe it is anyway) radiator light came on. I don't have my owners manual handy to reference, but it looks like a tank and water at the bottom. It has only come on twice and has turned off almost as quickly. I went to have it scanned and the autozone folks said it was fine. I am close to needing service on it anyway, but am wondering should I worry about this and take it in asap? Or should I just add a little bit of coolant and wait until the 2500 miles are up and take it in for service then...

Thanks and if you need more info, let me know!!

shipo · December 2007

You should probably add coolant, however if you do, ONLY ADD BMW coolant. Good old "Universal Prestone" ain't so universal these days.

Best Regards,
Shipo

roadburner · December 2007

Like Shipo said, use BMW coolant ONLY. You should be able to see a mark on the side of the translucent coolant tank. That is the "Cold Fill" mark. Add a 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix when the motor is completely cold. You DO NOT want to overheat that engine.

r74g · December 2007

Thanks guys, now I just have to figure out a way to get to the bmw dealer as it is my only car =P

hoodoomusic · December 2007

Hey Guys!

I have a 2000 323i with about 136K mi on it... I had my oil changed at the local BMW dealership about 10K miles ago and right after that, everytime I start my car, the yellow oil light comes on for about 5 to 8 seconds and goes off. I called the dealership shortly afterwards and he said not to worry about it...

Does this sound right???

kominsky · December 2007

I'm seeing the same thing on my 2001 330Ci, 132K miles. When I check the oil level, it's fine. Someone on this board had also seen the problem and it turned out to be that the level sensing unit went bad. For now, I'm just being sure to keep an eye on the oil level and will have my dealership look into it next time I take the car in.

idoc2 · December 2007

I own a 2007 328xi. The car now has 15,500 miles. When I took it to the dealer for an oil change I was told based on sensor readings the car would not be due for an oil change for another 4,000 miles. Never mind 19K+ miles, right or wrong I've never been comfortable with a 15K mile oil change interval. I've always changed the oil myself but the bumper on this car is too low and too far forward of the wheels such that it hits my ramps well before the tires. Aside from paying the dealer an absurd amount does anyone have any tricks or know if ramps come in different angles so I can do this myself.

circlew · December 2007

You can suck out the oil from the fill tube easy.

Shipo knows the details and i'm sure will help you. I felt the same as you but since they use synthetic oil, i'm ok with the intervals. I have an '06 330xi with 28 k and 1 oil change so far. Due for a change in Feb. '08.

Regards,
OW

shipo · December 2007

I use an oil extractor and have for many years, however, BMW saw fit to eliminate the dipstick starting in 2006 and it is my understanding that there is now no way to employ the use of an oil extractor.

That said, I am not aware of any oil filler tube on late model BMWs, if such a thing exists, and if it provides an unobstructed path to the oil pan, then the oil extractor will work perfectly well. Anybody?

Best Regards,
Shipo

circlew · December 2007

Heck, that's right! I have no dip stick! I doubt there is is a tube for oil extraction.

Regards,
OW

rhmass · December 2007

We have a '06 330i and a '02 325ixT. We have been getting annual oil/filter changes by the dealer since we have the cars. I think the practice has been either 15,000 miles or annual changes if you don't put in the mileage. Unless BMW has change the policy for 2007 and up, you should insist on getting your oil change with particularly over 15,000 miles.

idoc2 · December 2007

Because there is no dipstick and thus no way to use an oil extractor I guess the question remains about ramps. Does anyone know if Rhino ramps will fit under a 2007 328xi?

bdkinnh · December 2007

>"Does anyone know if Rhino ramps will fit under a 2007 328xi?"

I was going to get a set of Rino Ramps, but then I saw these: Race Ramps

Expensive, but it looks like the will work just fine, and would work for almost any car I'll own now or in the future.

Also, the lip on the Rino Ramps was a bit too small for my comfort level - I think it would be too easy to make a mistake and go off the end of it. The lip on the Race Ramps is larger and, IMHO, a lot safer.

kominsky · December 2007

I've been using Rhino Ramps for ~6 years with no problem. I usually have my wife nearby to help me make sure I don't run off the end, but I think it would be hard to do even without her guidance. I have a 2001 330Ci w/ sport so I wouldn't think your car is much/any lower.

nbb · December 2007

Hope someone can help with this one. I have a 2001 325 Convertible. About 4 years ago, I had a problem with the electronic trunk release. It would only open intermittently. This was the same whether I used the key fob,the internal release, or the trunk lid switch. I could only open it by manually inserting the key into the lock.

After a few visits, the dealer said they had to rewire the trunk release from the front to the back of the car. It worked fine after that for about 4 years. Although, sometimes after pressing the release button, the car had to 'think' for about 3 seconds before releasing the lock.

Yesterday, it started acting up again. It would refuse to open, but then would work again for a few times. But sometimes, if I pressed and held the button it would open.

I am not convinced that the new wiring is the problem. Otherwise, pressing and holding the release shouldn't matter. I tried lubricating the latch, but that did not help. I also listened to the trunk lock, but I don't hear anything when I press the key fob. No relay, no sound of binding, nothing.

Is it possible the car's computer is not allowing the trunk to open? I know there are conditions where the opening is suppressed. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, but that did not help.

Any ideas on what else to try? The car is out of warranty, and this could be a very expensive repair. Thanks!!

roadburner · December 2007

Any ideas on what else to try? The car is out of warranty, and this could be a very expensive repair.

My wife encountered a similar problem with her 1997 528i. The cause was the electric lock actuator. On your car I think that the actuator is incorporated into the latch assembly.
You wouldn't happen to have the glove box locked would you? I believe that also disables the trunk latch on convertibles.

pat · December 2007

Let's continue the oil discussion here: dmaccioc, "BMW 3-Series Oil Questions" #186, 18 Dec 2007 9:42 pm.

nbb · December 2007

The glove box is not locked. I know about the valet mode and made sure it wasn't activated. Still not sure about the actuator. I guess I would have to take it apart and see if it is getting voltage. It wouldn't be such a pain if the keyhole on the convertible was not hidden under the trunk handle. My wife's 323i has a much more accessible keyhole.

zico97 · December 2007

I just bought a pre-owned 2006 330i (1st time BMW owner). Navigaiton, Premium & Sport Package with 20,000 miles. The in service date is November 2005. I would like to know the next service date/miles. At time of starting ignition the "service date/miles" indicator shows 10,000 6/2009.

Obviously this is incorrect. Do I need to take the car in to a dealer so that they can tell me the actual date of the last service? Will the dealer have to "re-set" the computer? One important note here: I did not purchase from private party or dealer, I purchased from auto wholesaler.

Thanks for the help in advance!

shipo · December 2007

Why is the display incorrect? All it is telling you is that you have 10,000 more miles until the next service is due.

Best Regards,
Shipo

zico97 · December 2007

O.K. Lesson learned, I should get better acquainted with the owner's manual. I should have realized this before posting previous message. This makes total sense now... I feel much better and now realize that the indicator informs "next service date" not "last time serviced".
Thanks for helping out this "Newbie".
Happy Holidays!

ashgen · December 2007

I have a 2000 BMW 328CI and am trying to find a replacement for the center console ( or i think thats what it is, heh the thing in which the cup holders are located) does anyone know a good website that i can check out for this part, and other interior trip parts?

Mr_Shiftright · December 2007

That's either dealer or wrecking yard. So you might google for BMW Salvage.

roadburner · December 2007

does anyone know a good website that i can check out for this part, and other interior trip parts?

First, find the part and its number here.
Second, take the number to your dealer, get a price, and see how it compares to online dealers such as Circle and Pacific.

sunilb · December 2007

1- my driver's side seat belt just started retracting quite slowly (sometimes I have to feed it back in a bit.. is there an easy fix for this, or do I have to replace the seat belt?

If I have to replace it, is it a DIY or do I have to bring it to a mechanic?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=72_0330&hg=- 72&fg=05&hl=38

2- car appears to be burning oil... not sure what else to think given that the oil light has come on again (last time was ~ five weeks ago; I added 1/2 a quart then). I did wait for the car to cool down and checked the oil level (via dipstick) and it was closer to the minimum mark. I added another 1/2 quart and it's now reading about 2/3 up from the minimum mark. Anything I can do to minimize this consumption, or is it something I have live with?

3- while I had the hood up, I decided to check the coolant level via the expansion tank [recall that I had my radiator replaced approx. 6 weeks ago (preventive meausre)]. The "stick" was below the cap line, so I added some distilled water. Should I be monitoring the level of coolant on any regular basis?

Thanks,
Sunil

roadburner · December 2007

If I have to replace it, is it a DIY or do I have to bring it to a mechanic?

It's a DIY; you'll have to pull the B-piller cover, and you may need larger Torx drivers. Before you do that I'd pull the belt out ALL the way to make sure that the belt isn't twisted- that could be the problem...

Anything I can do to minimize this consumption, or is it something I have live with?

Probably not; how many miles per quart do you get?

Should I be monitoring the level of coolant on any regular basis?

Check it monthly, when the motor is dead cold. Use a 50-50 mix of distilled water and BMW coolant.

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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