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I went back to Edmunds, re-configured my car with the options ordered and compared it with the Motor Vehicle Purchase Contract & worksheet I was given by the dealer . It all works out as I figured. There are a number of additional charges like MACO ($250) and a Training/Service fee ($200), plus registration, documentation, inspection, etc that comes to about $423, plus 6.25% tax.
The deal I got was:
2011 335i xDrive $39,190
ZPP $2,410
ZSP $1,230
ZCW $910
688 $795
508 $685
A81 $500
655 $320
All Weather Floor Mats $100
Destination & Handling $875
Everything was at invoice price: $47,015
Option Credit (listed as Incentives & Rebates on Edmunds TMV page): $1,840
Dealer Profit: $750
Net: $45,925
Without adding in all the other stuff above that everyone pays, to me, that comes out $1,090 under invoice. This is NOT Out-the-Door, just the bottom line. I also paid tax on the net AFTER trade-in, so I "saved" about half the tax.
Am I missing something?
You mentioned financing offers? I didn't see that...
xeye
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Don't know if I should buy the maintenance warranty. When i was buying the car it was 1599.00 and now it is 2099.00.
Don't know if it is worth the money and would need some advice on this,
Thank you,
1. Car interior lights started blinking, then died about 5 miles later.
2. Mechanic said to disconnect battery and then reconnect after 5 minutes and try starting again.
3. Tried #2 and car wouldn't start, only interior lights would come on and clicking sound when turning ignition.
4. Was able to jump start car, but after running for awhile, car wouldn't start again.
5. Bought replacement BOSCH battery, installed it and car started right up, at least 4 times, then after driving for a bit, wouldn't start.
6. Tried a few more times to start it and then finally started.
7. When got car home turned off and wasn't able to start again.
Any advice??? Girlfriend's car and I'm not familiar with BMWs and their electrical systems.
Thanks.....Chris
Alternator output
Ground cables- at battery and at engine connections MUST be clean
Load test battery(yes, new batteries can be bad)
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Is it necc. to replace the brake sensor with the pads when the sensor hasn't been triggered?
Regarding the sensors - it is a requirement to replace when the light is triggered on. The reason is when the light is triggered on - the circuit is open. The sensor is a wire the is a loop. When pads touch the brake rotors where the sensor is it breaks the connection. Hope it helps.
Keep in mind there are total of only two sensors. One in front and one in rear. But there are total of 8 surfaces that should be monitored but BMW in its wisdom chose to monitor only 2.
To answer your question if the light isn't triggered on its reuseable.
You should replace rotors regardless. When getting any service you should always aske the service person to give you the thickness remaining on the pad. Generally at 30% or less its good to replace the pads and rotors and sensor.
I'm taking my E90 in for it's first "free" service. I plan on having them check tire wear, break pads, tranny fluid. Is there a differential fluid for the AWD system? Any other areas you can think of?
You may be a little disappointed by their response to your requests. My guess is they'll take your key fob, stick it in their reader, and let the car tell them what needs changing, and most probably, it will be only the engine oil. They will top off the washer fluid and probably do a visual check of brake fluid.
My understanding is the differential is sealed and never needs refilling unless there is a diagnosed problem.
Read the statement of work when they're done and see what they did.
Who is your dealership?
None of those items are due for replacement, unless the tires or brakes are worn (not likely at first service).
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With a tick over 51K miles, the car is still as tight as the day she picked it up. The brakes are super strong & the car's handling is simply incredible.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
http://www.gaultautosportbmw.com/
Thank you!
This is my first post and I apologize for changing the subject or stepping on anyone.
I recently purchased my first (used) BMW. It is an "01 325i with 152k miles. The original owner did take fantastic care of this vehicle, as is evident in the lack of sun damage (north Texas, 110f in the summer) and the immaculate interior.
When I purchased this vehicle, the A/C was not cooling. The (German import only) repair shop I used to handle the repairs concluded that the compressor was bad, and the oil filter housing was leaking.
After the repairs were complete I learn that I was charged over $700 for the compressor (labor additional) and over $100 for the oil filter housing. There were some other minor repairs and services, such as interior trim clips replaced, a foaming (?) engine cleaning, etc.. The final bill was over $1800. The dealership had
quoted $1600 just for the compressor replacement.
I later learn that I could purchase a brand new compressor from the same shop for less than $250.
Did I get taken for a ride? Is this right?
To top it off, the interior trim clips I was charged for, weren't even installed!
I'm a bit discouraged.
Though I must say that this is, perhaps, the best vehicle I have ever owned. (I used to be a devout Honda and Toyota fanatic)
Thank you in advance for any information!
You know what they say---you get what you pay for. Besides, if you want the shop to warranty their work, you have to buy their parts as a rule---you can't bring your own, because if you do and they fail, no shop is going to honor either parts or labor.
Shop the best repair shop, not the best price, and you'll be happier with your BMW in my opinion.
That has been my mentality throughout this. They seem to be a great shop, and money aside, I am thrilled with their work.
Regarding the cost of the compressor, perhaps I should clarify; $234. was the quoted purchase price for a brand-new, BMW OEM, compressor, if purchased through their parts counter, and $711 plus labor (roughly another $400), if purchased through their repair shop, at the same business. Are they expecting the compressor they installed to fail at least two times, and built the price into their parts cost?
I am more confused than anything, what justifies a $500 increase in the price?
A lifelong friend, and BMW enthusiast as long as I've known him, also uses this same business for many of his BMW parts, and is just as puzzled.
Maybe I am being picky, but $500 is $500!
And again, even with over 150k on this car it feels, drives, and rides like brand new. I am more than thrilled. And I look forward to using this forum as a sounding board, and sharing what I learn along the way!
Thank you!!
http://www.bimmershops.com/
$770 is the estimated cost for compressor based on $50 per hour.
I agree with Firebird; find a good indie shop.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks
As to how much you can expect to spend to keep a 3 series running, here's one data point. In the 11 years I've had the 325 (bought used in 1999 with 125,000 miles on it), I spent $5300 on maintenance and repairs, including routine stuff like brakes, oil changes, and tires. That works out to $482/year. But. I am able to do almost all the repairs and maintenance myself. If that wasn't the case, then my yearly outlays would have been at least 2 times greater, say $1000/year.
If my math is correct you have put 70,000 miles on your car in the 11 years you've had it. Does this include daily driving or is this your "fun" car. Since I already have a large SUV for recreation and I am donating my Honda, this will be my primary transportation. I just want to be sure this car will take me work and back for the next 5 years or so. I just wish I hadn't driven it--the decision would be much easier.
I have a 325xi, Sedan, 2003. Got it on 07 and it had already 125,000 "freeway miles".
It is- still- my first Bimmer and I did tons of research (BEFORE buying it).
There are couple things that a first time Bimmer-man should know.
-Miles in a BMW does not quite tells a lot about a car real condition. Maintenace DOES. Those cars are beautiful but they are drama queen!
-My research showed me that In order to keep up with my Queen, i should save about 2k a year for maintenance and repair. I then, checked for an "Extended Warranty". (You may check this forum for my finding)
-I took the advice of 'saving my own Extended Warranty". The cost of an EW goes from 1,500 to 3,500 3 years ago.
- I plan was to save the equivalent of one work-hour everyday or 2,000/year. This car just got out a lease. So instead of tossing out $2,500 on "Extended warranty'" I took the car to an Indy BMW garage and made are the critical repair. (Not many).
-As you can see having the taste but no necessarily the status-income to keep up with those car made most of us very creative.
- Finally, one pieces of advice if you ask: Don't buy Carfax report. BMW DO NOT report anything to anybody. They do not give away the car maintenance record either. It is "classification information" only available to a car's original owner.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
All modern BMWs use a Service Interval Indicator or Condition Based Service(CBS) systemto inform the driver when routine maintenance is required. On a 328i an Oil Service will be called for at @15,000-20,000 miles. To be honest, I don't like to run oil that long, so I perform an oil change at 7,500-9,500 miles. I also use Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic, which I prefer to the BMW-branded Castrol synthetic. It's a ridiculously simple DIY procedure and it costs me less than $55. The minor service(Inspection I) will come up at @30,000-40,000 miles and the major service(Inspection II) at 60,000-80,000 miles. An Oil Service will cost $60-$150, an Inspection I $150-$300, and an Inspection II $450-$800(prices will vary based on where you live and whether you go to a dealer or a indie BMW shop). Coolant must be changed every three years(using BMW Coolant ONLY), while the DOT4 brake fluid gets flushed every two years. If the car has a slushbox BMW also calls for changing the ATF at 100,000 miles, although I would have the procedure performed every 50,000 miles- and I'd have the differential oil changed(and manual transmission, if applicable) at the same time. Plugs get changed at 100K as well.
Finally, join the BMW Car Club of America. Many dealers and independent shops offer CCA members 10%-25% discounts on parts and/or labor.
I read some where that these cars only have about 100,000 miles in them. Is this true?
Not even close. You can easily get 200,000 miles out of most any BMW as long as it is maintained properly. My wife drives a 2004 X3 with over 96,000 miles on the clock and it looks and performs like a new car. Non-scheduled repairs have consisted of a passenger seat airbag sensor which was replaced under warranty. As others have noted, I'd budget $500-$1,000 per year for maintenance. As for another example of a worn out 100,000 mile Bimmer, here's my 1995 3 Series...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
My 2006 330xi has 90k now. I changed oil with CBS about 17k miles interval one time at 10k interval out of pocket. My front brake pads haven't been replaced that's how much highway driving or little brake I used. Rear pad replaced before 50k miles by dealer so that's the odd part. The 2nd set of RFT Continental has over 50k miles and it's still got good threads left....
There is an occasional squeek coming from the lower panel where the heated seat buttons are. If I press down hard on the rubber piece to the left or right of the heated seat button then the noise stops. Does anyone know of a long term fix for this?
BMW recommends a 100K change on some models. If you aren't keeping the car much past 100K, don't change it. I'm planning to keep the X3 for 3-4 more years so I changed it at around 56K.
I changed oil with CBS about 17k miles interval one time at 10k interval out of pocket.
I perform used oil analysis on my X3(and MS3) and the reports on the X3 show that by 9K-10K the additive package in the Mobil 1 0W-40 is almost totally depleted. I sure would not want to run that oil another 8K-10K. Note that Mobil 1 0W-40 has BMW LL-01 approval. I've since switched to Mobil 1 5W-40, which is an SM oil that also meets the tough CJ-4, CI-4, and CH-4 diesel specs. It actually holds up a bit better.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive