Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

19293959798105

Comments

  • Firebird_EOUFirebird_EOU Member Posts: 250
    Have same issue with my 2006 330xi driver's door. I use the key to unlock now.
    Most likely it's the door actuator failure and I believe it was $600+ to repair.
    It also won't lock with the central lock button in the car.
  • piterpiter Member Posts: 1
    hey it's probably a stupid question but i just picked up my 330xi and as you stated it says "and wait for the service reminder to dissapear. " is this normal that's what happens ?? because i hope there is something wrong with the car . do you own 3-series yourself ?? thanks piotr
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Are you saying that the reminder doesn't go out?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lehrer1lehrer1 Member Posts: 54
    Dealer maintenance prices are outrages in comparison with private garages.
    Resently I changed the oil and filter and changed the brake fluid + complete car inspection at Bavarian Motors garage for $144. They let me watch what they were doing.
    Dealer price was more than $300.
    Lehrer1
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    I have owned 7 BMW's. If it is NOT covered under warranty, I wouldn't get near a dealer service deparment. I even have my state inspections done elsewhere.
  • lehrer1lehrer1 Member Posts: 54
    I am with you. Dealer maintenance prices are as stupid as an idea of RFT.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Dealer maintenance prices are outrages in comparison with private garages.

    It really depends on the dealer. My local dealer(Swope BMW, Louisville KY) provides excellent service at extremely reasonable prices. Here are a few examples of service costs for my wife's 2004 X3 2.5:
    ATF and Transfer case fluid change(I don't believe in "lifetime" fills): $207
    Oil Service(AKA 15K service)+coolant flush: $128
    Inspection I(30K service)+brake fluid flush+wiper blades: $302
    Inspection II(60K service)+brake fluid flush+repair curbed LF wheel: $424
    That said, I also use an excellent independent BMW shop(Performance Specialties) for service on my 1975 2002 and 1995 318ti when I don't have time for DIY.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also the dealer is supposed to know what they're doing. I'm not a big fan of going to an indy shop that says 'German motors", under the assumption that all German cars are the same for some reason---they certainly are not. A superb Mercedes mechanic could totally screw up an Audi, for instance.
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    Now...remember...we're talking about a larger market---suburban Philadelphia to be exact:

    Local garage---owned and operated by two fine Italian mechanics (from Sicily) with 60 years of "foreign car" experience: All of the latest bells and whistles for electronics on ALL late model vehicles.... they also sell gas and ONLY pump it for you same price...no self serve.Granted... the loaner if you need one (at no charge by the way) might be a Pinto!

    Oil change with Mobil 1, filter(non OEM,,,, a filter is a filter)... $60. Coolant flush? Why in heaven's name would you ever flush coolant? Toilet need flushing...coolant is like luggage... it lasts FOREVER!

    Repair curbed left front wheel (me too!)...$85.

    State Inspection including (damn them) the emissions inspection $89.

    I have found that quality does not necessarily relate to price charged.

    I am satisfied to be ripped off when I buy a BMW...damned if I'll tolerate it for service too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited October 2010
    The basic coolant doesn't ever wear out, you are completely right about that, but the rust and corrosion inhibitors in that coolant do most certainly wear out---and that's why you flush.

    I also agree with most of what you say, except :surprise: "a filter is a filter".

    It has been my experience, and that of my friends who specialize in German cars, that a cheapo off-brand filter can cause problems.

    If you see a shop about to install a "Mrs. Fields Oil Filter" in your car, leap across the room and knock it from their hands, please. (no offense, Ms. Fields--just a joke).
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    should have prefaced my message by telling you that I usually don't keep keep a BMW out of warranty, have never put more than 10m per year on any of them so coolant should not get dirty. I do like the oil changed every winter/summer season and BMW will only pay for one of them...so in the off-change I use the Mrs. Fields Oil filters(good enough for 5000 miles). They double as a great chocolate-chip cookie when you are finished with them!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I know you probably won't believe me (and I didn't believe this either until I saw it demonstrated) but you can actually get an Audi V-6 to misfire by installing a Ms. Field's oil filter. How is this possible? It somehow disrupted sufficient oil pressure to the hydraulic valve lifters at idle speeds

    Okay, how about a Frau Feld's oil filter at least?
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    Think FRAM !
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    have never put more than 10m per year on any of them so coolant should not get dirty.

    Coolant is not replaced because it gets "dirty"; it is replaced because the corrosion inhibitors lose their effectiveness and the coolant pH becomes acidic.

    Think FRAM !

    I have to assume you are joking- I can't believe you'd be that naive. I once checked out an STP filter that supposedly fit the M54 in my wife's X3. The pitiful thing was stamped "Made in Malaysia" and cost $10.49. The BMW(Mann) filter cost $7.49. As far as I am concerned, if the filter is not made by Mahle/Knect or Mann it is not going to be installed on any of my BMWs.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    The auto parts store I buy the Royal Purple from for my Prelyde ONLY carries MANN filters.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You're scarin' me, man.... :surprise:
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I won't even run Fram filters on my 1999 Wrangler.
    Meh...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • jacs_b1jacs_b1 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: Is there a how-to maintenance book or if anyone has some instructions, can you please email me one:

    1) Brake flush
    2) Power steering flush
    3) Replace gasket between oil filter housing and engine block
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    The best BMW service manuals are published by Bentley.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Bentley manuals are very good and the only ones I recommend buying. You can also subscribe for a year to ALLDATA DIY, an online database. I believe it's $29 bucks for the entire year for one car, and that'll tell you how to do most things, in detail. (www.alldatadiy.com).
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    I have a 2008 328 sedan. Last evening I went to pick up a friend at the airport, and as I was circling the arrivals section I hit a median going approx. 15-20 mph. on the left side of car. It felt as if I'd hit a wall. I pulled over thinking I had bent a rim or tore part of my bumper off, but to my surprise, visually there was no damage. On my way home the car drove straight and handled normally as if nothing happened. When I got home I did a more thorough inspection with a flash light looking under the car for damage and the only visual damage is some scrapes under the front bumper. Could it have been the RTF's that made the harsh and jolt of the impact exaggerated? Even though the car appears to be fine, should I have it inspected by BMW or save my money?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd definitely go on the alignment machine, yes.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    Thanks for the advise. I have an appointment tomorrow at an independent alignment shop. They are charging me 100.00. BMW wants 150.00.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Consider it safety insurance and probably a good way to extend tire life....your tires are very expensive and if the front end got whacked out, you'll eat them up pretty fast.
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    If it ain't broke...don't fix it. If you are do for a regular (warranty covered) service...ask them to check alignment when it's in...DO NOT CONFESS TO HITTING THE WALL! I have found beemers toi be a tough as tanks...you're PROBABLY ok. But if you are nervous...take it in.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    He said he was going to a private alignment shop, so no warranty jeopardy. 20 mph is a pretty good whack. Lucky the air bags didn't go off.
  • professorlopezprofessorlopez Member Posts: 3
    Are there alternatives to Bridgestone Turanza RFTs on the market for 2006 330i? I need two new fronts. I have 2 new Turanzas on the rear. I thought I heard Continental introduced a RFT that is appropriate for this car. I'm calling around for a deal and would like to know exactly what tire to request quotes for. I'd appreciate any help here. Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    A couple of comments:
    1) Per TireRack.com, there are 34 different tires of the Run Flat Tire (RFT) variety from 8 different manufacturers.

    2) It is typically recommended that you keep the tires on all four corners the same, handling irregularities can result if you don't. Personally I didn't believe that "recommendation" until I tried it one time; never again.

    3) If you aren't wedded to the ill regarded RFTs, you're options literally skyrocket; much-MUCH better tires for less cost if you opt for Gets Flat Tires (GFTs).
  • professorlopezprofessorlopez Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, shipo.

    Tires.com also listed a couple dozen choices but it was not clear whether they were run flats, and the price range was incredible.

    I gather switching to GFT requires buying and storing a spare, which doesn't work for me right now so I'm in the RFT realm for now -- at least on these next two fronts.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If I end up in a BMW equipped with RFTs, the factory rubber will get yanked shortly thereafter in favor of GFTs, and I will NOT be investing in a spare. Wny? Because there is another option:

    http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=38

    Yeah, the goo might mess up a TPMS sensor, but hey, given that you can buy sensors for much less than the cost differential (per tire) of GFTs and RFTs, who cares? :)
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    edited October 2010
    I have a friend with a 1999 328i that refuses to start. I'm not familiar enough with BMWs to offer her good advise, so I'm hoping someone here can help. I looked the car over, and everything seems in order. I was reading the owner's manual about the security system in the car, and that it will prevent power to the ignition system, fuel pump and starter if it cannot read the chip in the key. Later, I found this to be called the EWS system.

    I checked the fuses, and they all look good. I don't know where the relays are located, since all I have is the owner's manual. The car gives no reaction when the key is turned, no relays click, lights dim, nothing. The driver's information panel also gives me nothing. Is this the way the EWS works to prevent start-up?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    do the dash lights and warning lights go on at least? Do the courtesy lights go on when the door opens?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited October 2010
    Load test the battery; you are describing a common failure mode.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • uncletouncleto Member Posts: 45
    Hi to everyone! My Indie BMW mechanic just repl. both of my cv boot for $395. he also said i need both front side control arm balljoints, bushings for $1200 ouch!!! to me its seems all i need is the outer balljoints. is it true that to repl. the outer ones you need to repl. the control arm altogether. meanwhile, im gonna try to get some more est. the car is 2001 325xi wagon. if would be nice if only they can do just the ball joints and re use the arm. any imputs will be much appreciated before i make my final choice. the car has 72,000+ miles. Thanks again!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No that doesn't sound right. You should get a 2nd opinion.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited October 2010
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright. Something isn't right with that estimate. After all, you can get a complete BMW Performance suspension kit from Turner Motorsport for just $574.33. If you only want the control arms you can get an upgraded set from Bavarian Autosport for $450.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    All the lights light up fine. Courtesy lights are nice and bright. All the dash indicator lights come on, as they should. When you turn the key, tho, you get no changes. No lights dim or go out, no clicking noises.

    The battery is only a couple of months old. We hooked up the jumper cables to the battery in the rear, but still no change.

    Also, is it normal for these cars to not allow a second chance to start the car unless the key is removed first? When I tried to start it, and got nothing, I went to try again, but the key refused to turn. I had to turn off the ignition and remove the key before it would let me turn it to 'start' again.
  • uncletouncleto Member Posts: 45
    I think the breakdown was $700 parts, $400 for labor + tax. dont even know if the $400 that i paid to repl. both front cv boot was pricey. i had it done this wed. and had no time to shop aorund. Beside 1 dealer here, his the only one Indie BMW mechanic that i know aorund here. Last month i went to the dealer bec. of the recall re. the rear subframe for cracks and inspection for free. So i asked them if they could also check the front suspension. to my supsrise the service manager said, no cracks on the rear frame and no problem w/ the suspension. but to my knowledge i know something is wrong bec. every now and then i could a tod noise coming from the front wheel sound like a ball joint. i tried to jack both front wheel and move the wheels side to side or left to right. there's movement to the left or 9 oclock positon both wheels, none to the right or 3' oclock position. to my knowledge. there's shouldnt be any movement either left or right. am i right on that.
    Thanks!
  • uncletouncleto Member Posts: 45
    I think the breakdown was $700 parts, $400 for labor + tax. dont even know if the $400 that i paid to repl. both front cv boot was pricey. i had it done this wed. and had no time to shop aorund. Beside 1 dealer here, his the only one Indie BMW mechanic that i know aorund here. Last month i went to the dealer bec. of the recall re. the rear subframe for cracks and inspection for free. So i asked them if they could also check the front suspension. to my supsrise the service manager said, no cracks on the rear frame and no problem w/ the suspension. but to my knowledge i know something is wrong bec. every now and then i could a tod noise coming from the front wheel sound like a ball joint. i tried to jack both front wheel and move the wheels side to side or left to right. there's movement to the left or 9 oclock positon both wheels, none to the right or 3' oclock position. to my knowledge. there's shouldnt be any movement either left or right. am i right on that.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Check the battery cables- especially the ground cables at the battery and the engine.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • r34r34 Member Posts: 178
    Someone told me:

    "When replacing tires on a TPMS equipped vehicle, it is recommended to replace the components of the sensor that are susceptible to wear and corrosion from the elements."

    I need to buy 4 NON-RUN FLAT tires for my 2007 335xi sedan. Do I need to buy the TPMS Rebuild Kits?

    Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    No. I'm not sure where this recommendation originated, but it is not at all necessary as there are no "elements" inside your tires that will cause any wear or corrosion. FWIW, the first car we bought with TPMS is now seven and a half years old and has north of 150,000 miles on it; it still has the original factory TPMS sensors and the still operate perfectly well. :)

    By the way, around here we've kind of settled on calling tires either RFTs for "Run Flat Tires" and GFTs for "Gets Flat Tires". :)
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I am not aware of any components in the TPMS that are susceptible to wear and corrosion.

    However, on the direct TPMS, there is a small lithium battery that's part of the sensor in each wheel. Obviously this battery has a finite life though it should last between 5 and 10 years in a typical vehicle. So, if you're replacing the OEM (?) tires after 3 years, and you get 3 to 4 years of life out of your new set, you'll be right in the middle of the expected end of battery life range when it's time to replace the tires again. That might be the right time to replace the sensors.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited October 2010
    The only thing I can think of are the neoprene/rubber gaskets that seal the TPMS valve stem to the wheel. That's about the only thing that can go "bad".

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • v8nutsv8nuts Member Posts: 7
    Think NOT!! lol
  • ego29isteego29iste Member Posts: 45
    Just purchased a new 2011 convertible about 2 months ago. Loving the car except for 1 annoying rattle that has cropped up. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side. To me it almost sounds like glass from the rear window vibrating... it is only audible when the road surface is not smooth.

    Anyway just wanted to see if any other convertible owners had a similar issue and what if any was the resolution? I have made an appointment at the dealer for next week but having second thoughts about letting them go on an expedition trying to find the rattle and inadvertently make things worse. Wondering if I should just wait it out to see if it will go away by itself since the car only has 1700 or so miles on it now.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks,
    TJ
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could help the dealer reach a successful conclusion by getting someone in the bad seat to help you track it down---they could even use a little hose to plug into their ear as they work along the suspected areas.

    Dealers often fail to find rattles because it is very time-consuming and they give up pretty quickly on it.
  • jkl99jkl99 Member Posts: 11
    The same issue happened with my 2006 330i just two days ago. Originally, the driver door cannot be opened and other 3 doors won't be locked. I manually locked other 3 doors, then the driver door can be opened but not other 3 doors. None of the doors response to the central lock button or the lock/unlock buttons on the remote. I have to use key to open the driver door in order to drive the car and cannot have any passengers unless they want to crawl to their seats throught the driver seat.

    Searching through the website and found this issue was mentioned in BMW Service Information bulletin at http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B511907g.htm. According to this document, it seems like one of the fuse need to be replaced. Spent a lot of time to search for where to find the fuse box of my 330i and how to replace the blown fuse. Finally find the blown fuse and replace it with a spare one in the fuse box - per the bulltin, the blown 15A should be replaced with 20A, but cannot find spare 20A. After the fuse replaced, none of the buttons worked and felt frustrated and didn't sleep well that night - wondering how to reset the system and calculating how much money will be spent to fix this issue in dealer. Make a two days' later appointment the second day morning.

    During the day at work, keep searching the way to reset the door locks system and my remote - did find something how to pair your remote with car. I gave it a try after the work by keep pressing the door opening button till all windows rolled down together. At the same time, I saw all the doors unlocked as well. Wow, the door locks got reset and the issue fixed. I cannot believe the issue was fixed without paying the visit to dealer. By the way, I slept well last night.
  • skj109skj109 Member Posts: 8
    Another thing you might try is changing the battery in your remote. I have a 2006 330i too and just this year I started having issues with the doors not locking/unlocking. Sometimes it would work and other times it didn't. But once I changed the battery I haven't had any problems since.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Where did you get the battery replacement for the key? One of my two keys has problem not locking all doors when pushed, but can open all doors. May be changing the battery will fix it. Do I need to go to the dealer for the battery? What is the approximate price? TIA
Sign In or Register to comment.