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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • xeyexeye Member Posts: 168
    My apologies to the readers and to my dealership in MA if I had perhaps used a poor choice of words. I'm not angry, and I actually really like my dealership and have a great relationship with their staff, especially the General Manager. It's the Finance guys I'm not wild about. When I saw what they were asking for the extended maintenance and mechanical contracts compared to what I read on various posts, I felt like they were trying to take advantage of me. In that the GM dropped the price of the maintenance contract by 25% below what the finance guy initially quoted simply by asking, I feel that the "weasel" title is, at least, somewhat justified.

    Beyond that, I could not get the dealer to commit to provide a complete brake job within the extra 2 years even though their price quote takes their cost + profit of the brake job specifically into account in their pricing structure, hence the term "screwed over" since it is akin to throwing away good money.

    Extended contracts of any kind play against consumers' fears of costly repairs. Obviously, it is incumbent on the consumer to try as accurately as possible to estimate the benefit vs cost. Unfortunately, the vast majority of consumers are at a significant disadvantage when it comes to doing that successfully.

    Extended warranties may well pay off for some, including me. However, it seems ironic to hope that your vehicle breaks down in some significant repairable way just so you can get your money's worth. I buy health, home and auto insurance, fundamentally the same as the warranties with the hope that I'll never need it. I suppose no hospital will promise you specific treatment just because you pay for major medical. There is just something much more annoying when the finance guy tries to justify his quote specifically on the total probable cost of a dealership brake job, oil changes, wipers and the like, and in the next breath, tells you that you might not need it, or get it even though you implicitly paid for it.

    What I really should said, simply, is that I was quoted $4290 for a 6 year 100,000 mile (from in-service date) mechanical warranty and $2495 (now $1895) for the maintenance warranty for the same term. Compared to what others have been offered from a reputable dealership for the same warranties (assuming that warranties from any BMW dealership is an apples-to-apples comparison), is this reasonable for a 2008 328xi with about 40,000 miles?
  • dino001dino001 Member Posts: 6,162
    edited December 2011
    Sure, no problem. To answer your question, if you had brake job already done on your car or anticipate one before the factory maintenance ends than the maintenance contract is probably so-so: you get couple of oil changes, new wipers and perhaps some other fluids. If, on the other hand you anticipate the brake job later (say you have 70% wear now, so by 6 y.o. it will for sure go to 100%) than you get that brake job on top - and then I would say buy it, as it then becomes a discounted prepaid service at facility you know to be competent. It is a simple math - how much you'd pay in the facility if you brought the car for scheduled maintenance, how much is the prepaid, and are other (cheaper) options attractive enough to change the venue altogether?

    Extended warranty - well, that's a different story. Over four grand for extra two years of coverage? No, thanks. I'd rather put it in the bank. Chances are I walk away with half of that after those two years are over. There is small possibility I may need pitch extra, but we are now talking about how likely is that.

    Insurance should be for catastrophic losses, not nuisances. To me catastrophic means something that would cripple me financially. Unlikely job on a blown engine or transmission is not catastrophic, even if it exceed 4 grand. It hurts, but if I can't pony a few thousand bucks, I have no business owning $40K+ car.

    Everybody has their threshold of "pain" set at different limits. I like to take my chances with small-to-medium stuff. Others shake on thought of having to come up with a few unplanned hundreds. They somehow have no problem with hundreds of dollars in monthly payments, but suddenly thousand dollars on electrical repair becomes a backbreaker they need insurance against. Those people need extended warranties just to sleep well. I don't like to pay those repairs, either, but they're not going to ruin me. So I rather take my chances.

    2018 430i Gran Coupe

  • xeyexeye Member Posts: 168
    I agree with your statements and I had largely come to the same conclusions. I have an off-cycle oil change for the 328xi scheduled at a local indie shop tomorrow morning where we have had reliable oil service done before on my '07 335xi, and oil, brake and I think half-shaft work, done on my wife's prior '95 318ti. I spoke to them earlier this week. Apparently, there is a layman way to see the brake wear, something to do with the turn signals, apparently. They will tell me, one way or the other, how much brake life we have left, and I will base my maintenance warranty purchase decision partly on that information.

    I am most inclined to turn down the mechanical warranty. I agree that I would rather bank the cash than fork it over in advance. With proper maintenance and moderate driving, the car should last in one piece beyond 6 years and not come too close to 100,000 miles.

    You are probably right when you say that owners of moderately expensive cars should be able to afford a few grand when, and if, necessary. Unfortunately, I am equally sure there are many BMW owners who have to hope they can drive a nice ride and not have to suffer that pain. I'm somewhere in between. I will most likely not keep my '11 335i xDrive beyond the 4 years (2.5 years to go). Should both Bimmers break down requiring major repairs at the same time outside of warranty, that'll be me you wizz by on my bicycle. Have mercy!

    Thanks for your thoughts, and patience. I've dropped a not too-subtle-hint to my GM that this weekend is month-end, quarter-end and year-end all rolled into one. I'll see if he comes back with something to my request for the maintenance warranty for $1695. If not, I still have until August 2012 to decide what to do.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    Hey xeye - you still have your green 335i x drive coupe with oyster leather? How many miles you have on that now? Are you still loving it?

    How many miles does your wife drive her car per year? Have the brakes on her car been replaced yet? I believe you have until the last second (3 years & 364 days or 49,999 miles, whichever comes 1st) to purchase the extended maintenance pkg. Keep in mind, the dealer is really only supposed to do the maintenance when the car says to. I can tell you that on my Mom's '08 328xi that she turned in last December, the service light for the brakes went on at literally 50,100 miles. It was almost comical. Next up at about 60K miles is an Inspection II (major) service. After that you'll get an oil change at 75K & maybe an inspection I @ 90K.

    There are dealers in other areas of the country that probably do charge less for the same services. I know you live in MA if memory serves me. Dealerships in the northeast are not cheap ($120/ hour) for labor.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • rnahouraiirnahouraii Member Posts: 22
    I think that a cost of your services is certainly your choice to charge, but I believe that most of us would have a ceiling that we would pay before considering it to be "price-gouging." And the term doesn't have to apply to a natural disaster, either.
  • xeyexeye Member Posts: 168
    Hey NYCarGuy! You DO have a good memory! I do still have the Tasman Green Metallic 335i with the Oyster & Black interior, and I'm still loving it! I have about 22,000 miles, probably 1/4 of which were on Interstates 95, 93 & 89 between Boston & Montreal. The oyster leather has survived remarkably well, except for when my wife wore her new black pants on a long trip. Fortunately, I have great detail guy who was able to restore the leather to pristine condition with one treatment. Needless to say, she does not wear those pants in my car anymore!

    My wife has put on between 40,000 and 45,000 miles since about July '08, so she'll be near or just over the 50,000 miles by next August. The GM at my dealership told me I had to buy the warranty for $1895 before the end of this year, or he "couldn't guarantee that the price won't go up". It sounds like one of those ads where I have to "act before midnight tonight" or "be one of the first 10 callers". He may be right, but then again I don't have to act at all.

    Your point about the dealer not having to do any maintenance until the car says so is an excellent one, and a point I very well understand. That's why I asked the GM to commit to doing a complete brake job before the extra 2 years would end. He declined, naturally. I would like to not have to pay for the 60,000 mile service. I understand that could be expensive. That may be the decision that teases me into paying for the maintenance extension. I hadn't thought of that, thank you. Maybe if my wife drives the car a lot and stomps on the brakes at every light and stop sign, I can really get my money's worth before 6 years are up. My nickname for her (when she had the 318ti) was Maria Andretti! We used to drive the Ortega Highway between San Juan Capistrano & Lake Elsinore in SoCal when all I had was a Toyota 4Runner. Hardly as good in the twisties.

    Anyway, I'll get an idea of the brake life tomorrow morning when the car is on the lift for the oil change and chat with the mechanics. They've always been straight with us before. Then, I just have to remove my shoes and socks and count up the expected costs!
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,498
    edited December 2011
    is that these "extnded warranties" aren't charities. They're a profit centre, and the cost has to cover a (very substantial) fee that goes to the dealer that sells them.

    In general, it costs less to pay for repairs yourself than to buy these things, otherwise they wouldn' tbe sold. The fact that they are is a monument to the notion that certain brands are failure-prone.

    Others aren't.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • xeyexeye Member Posts: 168
    That is precisely why I am going to squeeze them as hard as I can. If they don't yell "uncle" at a price point that I'm happy with, I will walk away, AND let them know that I may well consider walking away from the brand as well when it comes time to replace my car. They can wonder whether I really mean it or not.

    To gain short-term profit at the expense of long-term gain is foolish and short-sighted, especially in a down economy.
  • xeyexeye Member Posts: 168
    After the off-cycle oil change and check on the brake life this past Friday, my indie shop told me I have 23% wear remaining on the front brakes and 37% remaining on the rears. The brake fluid has 9% life remaining before the flush will be required, all according to the car. I suppose the car's sensors told the mechanic all this. The service monitor says that I have 12,000 miles left on the front brakes and 20,000 miles on the rear brakes. Apparently, BMW won't do anything about the brake fluid until it reads 0% and the car calls home.

    Based on this, the brakes will probably need to be done sometime before the extended warranty would expire in August 2014. Just the same, I am inclined to decline buying the warranty in advance, and just pay as I go. The mechanic said that the simpler 3 series models, especially without iDrive, are largely "bullet-proof", especially at the relatively young age of 44,464 miles.

    Hopefully, this will have been the right choice.

    I hope everyone had a safe and Happy New Year!
  • idoc2idoc2 Member Posts: 78
    Other than $265 from the dealer are there any options to replace a lost key fob (the type that gets inserted into the dash) for a 2007 328xi?
  • dino001dino001 Member Posts: 6,162
    edited January 2012
    You can always try a flatbar with a hook and two wires under the dashboard ;) :P

    2018 430i Gran Coupe

  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    I wouln'dt screw with it. Go some shop that works on BMW and ask them,what they would do. Puffin
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    edited January 2012
    What do you think?In Maine (southern Part) it hasn't snowed this year maybe to morrow.I put Pro Contis on my 2011 328i. I want to drive it and get it out of the garage.Maybe get a set rear tires studded and steel rims.(pro contis) One day or three days it in the 40's and I'm driving a Golf(nice Car though)
    I'm ready to say to hell with it and drive it.Thats alot of fun sitting in the garage. :confuse:
  • hemanthhhemanthh Member Posts: 40
    Hi,

    My 330xi has low mileage about 24k. After a cold night, it wont start. With the clutch down and the key in, when I press the start button, I hear a constant clicking sound, but the engine wont kick in.

    The dash board lights flicker on for a bit and some of them stay on, which is why Im thinking maybe it is not the battery? The 4X4 symbol came on briefly a few times.

    Can anybody tell me if it is indeed the battery or if it the all-wheel drive? If the AWD fails, will the car not even start?

    Thanks in advance!
  • paddy159paddy159 Member Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    It could be the battery. Rapid continuous clicking is the type of sound you get from a solenoid when the voltage is too low to fully engage it. Also, automotive batteries only last so long. 7 years is about average for a battery. A lot of shops will test your battery for free. Have you got AAA or other roadservice like that? Can you get your hands on a voltmeter? If the battery is reading lower than 12.6 Volts, there's a problem. However, you could have a bad ground, bad starter solenoid, bad connection. There's too many possibles for someone to tell you what it is without actually looking at the problem. One other thing, how cold is a cold night? 20deg., -20deg? I'm not real familiar with batteries capabilities at cold temperatures (I live in Calif.) but extreme cold could be a real factor.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    If you have the original battery in the car, the likely hood is a defective battery.

    Can you jump start the car? If so, it's the battery 99% of the time.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I'm with busiris and hemanthh.

    6 or 7 year old battery + very cold => weak output
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    Who keeps a battery 7 years? ;)
  • hemanthhhemanthh Member Posts: 40
    Thanks all! I just jumped the car, and it did start up. The all-wheel drive symbol seems to be gone as well. It is a 5-6 year old car, but I drive sparingly, so have low mileage.

    Looks like I hadnt driven for more than a week and the weather has dipped to the 20's with a couple of exceptionally cold nights and that did the battery in.

    Hope it keeps charge and I dont have to replace it. One dealer gave me a quote of $450 for replacing the battery.

    Another says there is a black battery and there is a white battery and there are about $150 and $250 or so, not counting labor.

    Thanks all!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well we all want to pry your fingers away from your checkbook and get you to buy a new battery. :P Anyone have ideas for him as to how to avoid the dealer's rather pricey specimen?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Who keeps a battery 7 years?

    That'll be me, or even longer :blush: . My (almost) 21 year old Sentra is only on it's second battery. The '87 BMW I got rid of in the fall was still on the battery my son put in back in 2001. My 2005 truck still has the factory battery in it.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    Try Walmart. They have good batteries. Quite possible they carry one for a 3 series.

    Or autozone. Sears.

    it's just a battery, even if it is in the trunk!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Below freezing, a battery can lose up to 40% of its power. So if it's 'good enough' for 32 and above, it may not be at 20 and below.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I'm on the original battery in my car... Six years old and counting...

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    do not tweak the noses of the gods.... :P
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    edited January 2012
    If its a 2006, then its included in the E9x series.

    As far as I know (and, sometimes I don't know very much), all E9x series require battery registration, and BMW dealers are (with few exceptions) the only shops than can do this.

    So, the Piper (in this case, BMW) is probably going to "get his due".

    One poster's experience (from another forum... I hope this will be allowed, since its aimed at helping a poster here...

    I replaced the original battery on my 2006 E90 myself in 2010, figuring it must be due, especially since the Florida heat tends to be tough on batteries. I had read a number of DIYs and never saw anything about registering the battery (never heard of such a thing until today). Within 6 months or so the car was cranking slow. By late summer 2011 the battery went completely dead. I put another new battery in myself (this was just a few months ago). Within weeks I noticed the cranking was somewhat slow again. I started thinking maybe the ignition coils are getting old. Today I've got the car in a good local shop for a rear window regulator replacement (damn those windows). Just got a call --- the battery is bad and the car wouldn't crank. The subject of "registering the battery with the car" then came up and was explained to me. So in addition to the window repair job I'm having them put in a new BMW battery and do the registering

    This is what you call learning the hard way that the car's design is too "advanced" for the owner's own good. Bottom line is I would recommend taking care of the registering.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,466
    So exactly what represents 'registering' a battery? It sounds like it involves introducing the charging system to the battery's quirks and limitations to that it doesn't fry the thing. Am I right?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • hemanthhhemanthh Member Posts: 40
    Prior to getting the 330xi, I had a Honda Prelude for about 12 years. Cant remember changing the battery even once. Maybe once, I just dont remember. I left it on a friends driveway, all winter one time and still had no issues starting it up.

    Of course, my friend claimed that he would drive it out once in a while to keep the battery juiced up, and I do believe him :)

    But the 330xi, I only drive once a week or so, and this time, hadnt driven for a couple, just when the night time temps went into the single digits.

    Good news is that the jump seemed to get it back. Im worried, it might stall again on a long drive, so have invested in AAA after many years :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well they call it registering but really any competent and well-equipped indie shop should be able to do this. You have to hook up the scanner, clear all the codes and then check into, and possibly program, (dial in) various systems so that they work properly. So maybe the dealer quote was for dealer shop time rates, which as you know can be $$$.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    So exactly what represents 'registering' a battery? It sounds like it involves introducing the charging system to the battery's quirks and limitations to that it doesn't fry the thing. Am I right?

    Partially....

    Mr_Shiftright pretty much nailed it.

    Different battery construction types have differences in their optimum charge rates, how they discharge, etc., and "registration" gives the on-board computer the info it needs to program charging rates, etc.

    I haven't had the experience myself, so I can't tell you who, besides BMW, may be able to perform the process.

    You can simply change out the battery and replace it with a new one, but be prepared for some strange "electronically related" issues to arise.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2012
    apparently even BMW is not quite sure what strange phenomena might occur. For instance, your sunroof could stop working. The scanner has to figure all this out.

    Here's what ALLDATA says: (ALLDATA PRO is for all types of mechanics, not just the ones at BMW dealerships.)

    "IMPORTANT:
    The scope of application of some systems may be restricted after a power supply interruption.
    Likewise, individual settings may be lost.
    Settings or activations must be carried out, depending on the equipment specification.

    For example:
    Vehicles with automatic engine start stop function (MSA): MSA function is active only after learning period (vehicle must not be woken for a period of approx. 6 hours) > if necessary, notify customer of the situation
    E46 Perform (four-wheel drive) / E53 / E83: steering angle sensor adjustment
    If necessary, carry out adjustment of active steering
    If necessary, activate slide/tilt sunroof
    If necessary, activate power windows
    If necessary, activate mirror with compass Please refer to the Progman user documentation for further information on vehicle-specific activation.
  • chewy2chewy2 Member Posts: 19
    Does anybody know what the cost of registering a new battery might be?
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,498
    edited January 2012
    think that this is part of why the vast majority of "modern" BMWs are distributed to (many/most are leased) to consumers rather than enthusiasts?

    BMW appears to prefer that no one ever raise the hood; any and all maintenance issues (including putting in oil from time to time) should be taken to the dealer. The hood may as well be welded shut, oh and the trunk too, in the case of the battery.

    Several of us think otherwise. . .way otherwise.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well just reading that description, and considering what it might take to physically remove and install the battery, this can't be more than ...what....1.5 hours total?

    So where I live that's $200 + the battery.
  • wasdcbmwwasdcbmw Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Hi,

    I just purchased a 2010 328i XDrive with 35K miles. Dealer is offering the BMW extended warranty (not third party) for 6 years /100K miles at $2500 (7 years / 100K was $3000). He was also offering to extend the maintenance program to 6 years/100K for another $1700.

    The car is relatively new - In service date was in May 2010 but mileage is high.

    Should I buy the warranty, maintenance or both?

    Thanks!
  • onemtonemt Member Posts: 2
    If you can afford it get the maintenance warranty but I wouldnt get the service warranty because you can save money by buying the parts online and getting a reputable mechanic to do the work or do it yourself if you can. I have an 08 328xi purchased with 39000 miles and havent any issues 30000 miles later.
  • Firebird_EOUFirebird_EOU Member Posts: 250
    My 2006 330xi has 120k miles and still on original battery, it's garage kept so no more (so far) starting in the morning and this winter it's pretty warm.
    Also I'd drive 80 miles a day 75% highway so the battery gets charged.

    Do a search for
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  • markiemark1markiemark1 Member Posts: 7
    Here's a puzzler - 2001 330 128k miles. I took it in for a water pump and while in the shop (Indy) the PCV oil separator condensed water & cracked in the cold winter night. When they fired her up the shop filled with white oil smoke... quite an event I've been told. Replaced the PCV assembly and burned off the oil dump into the cylinders... but now on some cold starts (not all) and just driving at any speed or condition, she'll spontaneously burn oil for a couple seconds and then it stops, all is good, like nothing ever happened.

    All cylinders checked for compression and are OK. Based on that we're scratching our heads as to what would cause this intermittent oil burn...

    Any thoughts on next steps?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    white smoke is water, not oil.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • markiemark1markiemark1 Member Posts: 7
    This is oil - billowing clouds - I blew through 1 quart in the last day. The inter-mittent bursts last for about 5 seconds, then the engine clears it out and all is well for awhile. My mechanic is stumped. It is not consistent, it comes and goes. Does not not have to do with temperature as it's 55 degress F in Michigan today. Seems to happen at lower speeds 70mph. Happens whether I'm accelerating, decelerating or on cruise control.

    Anyone have any suggestions on how to analyze to get to the root cause?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Only thing i can think of under these conditions would be a sudden rise and fall in crankcase pressure.
  • markiemark1markiemark1 Member Posts: 7
    Anyone have a recommendation for an Independent BMW shop in the greater Detroit area, Northern suburbs?

    For motor work.
  • markiemark1markiemark1 Member Posts: 7
    Any thoughts on what might cause a sudden rise in crank pressure to happen?

    I thought it may be a faulty PCV assembly that we just put in but my mechanic didn't think so. He said if it was faulty, it would be a continue draw of oil from the pan into the cylinders causing the engine to Hydro-lock... which is what happened to it when they had it in the shop a couple weeks ago.

    Prior to that I had no isues with oil consumption or these intermittent oil bursts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, you can't hydro lock with oil...only with water--that's why they call it HYDRO-lock.

    I'm not getting a good feeling about this mechanic, I have to tell you.
  • markiemark1markiemark1 Member Posts: 7
    Good point! - Sans his incorrect labeling, is it possible to suck that much oil into the cylinders through a faulty PCV assembly to lock it up?

    I also just talked with another mechanic at a shop called "German Motors" and he said he could think of a few things... Cracked piston ring, partially blown head gasket, valve seats.

    Do any of these sound more likely than the others or are there ways to eliminate some of them, without tearing down the engine?

    The car also has an aftermarket supercharger and he said to check the intake to see if there is any evidence of oil from the cooling lines.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    ohhhhhh, well you didn't say anything about an aftermarket supercharger. :shades: Is this oil-fed? If so, then it could very well be sucking in oil. I have no idea what type of unit you have or how it is installed.

    Also, superchargers or turbochargers exploit any weakness in an engine, but I would have thought that only on full boost would the engine then burn oil due to internal problems.

    I'd certainly look further into the supercharger to see if any connection is possible. I know with a turbocharger this would be a prime suspect.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    I still think you've got 2 problems here. Oil does not produce white smoke when it burns. Light some on fire if you don't believe me.

    How has your coolant level been through all of this? What about the condition of the coolant? Any oil getting in there? Have you pulled off your oil cap? Any foam or brown sludge in there?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmmm...yes...it's possible his blower is pushing past the head gasket on high boost. Aftermarket superchargers love to exploit any weakness in an engine not built up for a supercharger.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited February 2012
    When the oil separator gets clogged the engine vacuum actually can draw in enough oil to totally fill the cylinders. From the Technical Editor of the BMW CCA magazine ROUNDEL:

    Actually, the saddest stories of M54 oil separator failure end with a blown engine, secondary to hydrolocking with oil, secondary to oil separator failure. It is quite rare but it does happen, especially in cold climates. Your story is quite common. On the bright side, I haven't heard of any catalytic converter failures following oil separator failure -- they smoke like crazy when you start the engine after the repair, but that goes away and so does the smell.

    BMW has a completely revised most of the oil separator parts and every car needs the whole system. But, true to form, BMW didn't tell owners about it and did not issue a service action or provide a secret warranty. The oil separator update with cold weather modification, cleaning out the hole for the dipstick tube, the new dipstick tube, and all the associated hoses (which are always soft and mushy) costs about $450 to $600 depending on where you are and who is doing the work. Every M54 needs it, but it is REALLY important if you live in a cold climate. What happens is that ice forms in the sludge inside the system and completely blocks it, and that's when you get what happened to your car. You're very lucky it didn't hydrolock...

    [T]he updated parts and cold weather modification are detailed in BMW Service Information Bulletin 11 08 03.


    Aftermarket forced induction can only exacerbate the situation I'd bet- especially if the OEM oil separator system was modified in the process.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    I'll bite. which engine is the M54, in which models/years? And at what point did they implement the fix on what they were selling?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

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